CN103541101B - Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof - Google Patents

Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof Download PDF

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CN103541101B
CN103541101B CN201310488622.9A CN201310488622A CN103541101B CN 103541101 B CN103541101 B CN 103541101B CN 201310488622 A CN201310488622 A CN 201310488622A CN 103541101 B CN103541101 B CN 103541101B
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cashmere
yarn
pva
wool
short fiber
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CN103541101A (en
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杨丽萍
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Jiangsu Fanggu Technology Co.,Ltd.
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Jiangsu Nijiaxiang Group Worsted Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof, the present invention improves out a kind of new high-quality, low-cost technologies in existing " wool/PVA " technical foundation, and cost is low, the Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft of high-quality to use this technology to produce i.e. " wool/cashmere/PVA ".Product of the present invention is owing to have employed PVA long filament and PVA short fiber collocation use, and warp thread have employed cladded yarn technique and adds 35D PVA long filament, enhances and weaves brute force, and Final finishing is moved back, and the rear finished product fabric of dimension is fluffy, light weight, flexible, breathable; Owing to adopting single-warp single-abb technique, fabric has splendid wrinkle resistance, reaches 11% natural elasticity simultaneously; Again because containing the cashmere of 30% in fabric, make the class of product further promote, fabric texture is fine and smooth, smooth, and gloss is natural, soft but be no lack of elasticity, and draping property is good, has splendid wearability.

Description

Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of smart wool spinning fabric, particularly relate to a kind of Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Along with the raising of people's living standard, and the development of dress ornament dressing culture, worsted fabric presents " raw material diversification ", " structure is lightening ", " style trends ", " using function " trend.
And lightening production key is the production of high yarn count.Be limited by the restriction of raw material, high yarn count pure wool product produced, superfine wool must be adopted to produce, and the whole dependence on import of superfine wool, and price is very expensive, the benefit thus dropping into product generation is undesirable.
" WOOL/PVA " i.e. " wool/PVA " new technology that International Wool Secretariat promotes, has namely started new era of low cost, high-quality pure wool fabric.How producing more high-quality, more low cost product, is a great development direction of current smart wool spinning fabric.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to improve out a kind of new high-quality, low-cost technologies in existing " wool/PVA " technical foundation, and cost is low, the Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft of high-quality to use this technology to produce i.e. " wool/cashmere/PVA ".
Another object of the present invention is to provide the production method of this Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft.
The object of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
A kind of Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft, formed by warp thread and weft yarns, it is characterized by, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread singles yarn count is 60, for first with 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber then when spinning and the corespun composite yarn of 35DPVA long filament outsourcing that formed of 35D PVA long filament doubling, weight ratio is wherein 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, 16.15 μm cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%, after finished product moves back dimension through yarn yarn count be 70/1; Described weft yarn singles yarn count is 51, and for being formed by 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber, weight ratio is wherein 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%, and it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension.Wherein, PVA short fiber and PVA long filament are all solvable.
The production method of above-mentioned Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft, its step is as follows:
(1), with 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and 2.1DPVA short fiber for raw material, add PVA short fiber and bar made by Australia's hair, cashmere when the recombing of bar dye, wherein each raw material weight ratio is 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%; Bar dyeing technique is: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar; Wherein, first spinning portion's dewing before cashmere silver mixing, off time is more than 12 hours; Before dyeing, cashmere and wool require silver mixing 2 times, make every effort to abundant mixing, ensure Color below; Adopt vapour Bagong Si Lanna uniformly dyeing material, and add the blue Q of Miller and the wool protective agent except the blue Q of Miller; During post processing, pH value strictly controls, and has not only ensured that loose colour cleans up but also do not damage woollen and cashmere fiber; Strict control after backwashing temperature, drying room temperature is no more than 110 DEG C, reduces the damage to fiber; Strict PVA product requirement of pressing controls, and silver mixing is even; Forbid to do over again.
(2), above-mentioned obtained finished product bar is carried out spinning and makes warp thread and weft yarn, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread singles yarn count is 60, for first using 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber are then when spinning and the corespun composite yarn of 35D PVA long filament outsourcing that formed of 35D PVA long filament doubling, weight ratio is wherein 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, 16.15 μm cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%, after finished product in warp thread moves back dimension through yarn yarn count be 70/1, warp thread of the present invention adopts cladded yarn technique to add 35DPVA long filament greatly can to strengthen and weave brute force, improve product quality, described weft yarn singles yarn count is 51, and for being formed by 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber, weight ratio is wherein 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%, and it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension,
Spinning process is: scalp acupuncture → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → yarn steaming → winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Wherein spinning process is by light quantitative, the low speed of a motor vehicle, small tension receiving coil, little package, principle that passage is smooth, and preceding working procedure requires that silver mixing is even, and scalp acupuncture requires to do twice; Spun yarn is put on four roller fine spining machines and is produced, drafting multiple 10 ~ 15, keeps passage bright and clean, reduces filoplume card nailing neps, improve yarn qualities; Doubling first makees sample before adding 35D PVA solubility long filament, produces in batches after seeing test effect without after elephant skin yarn, handle yarn again; Yarn steaming: for PVA kind, what portion of spinning was the most key is yarn steaming technique, and the quality of yarn steaming effect directly affects the presentation quality of the woven efficiency in rear road and final finished; Formulating yarn steaming technique is: pressure 0.88MPa, temperature 30-90 DEG C during spun yarn yarn steaming, 90 DEG C of insulations 20 minutes, and pressure 0.88MPa when adding yarn steaming after PVA long filament, temperature 30-80 DEG C, 80 DEG C of insulations 20 minutes; After adopting this yarn steaming technique, effectively solve yarn steaming distortion after double twisting, yarn count shrinks excessive, the unequal problem of yarn tension, weaves cotton cloth to obtain larger improvement through shelves problem.
(3), by above-mentioned obtained warp thread and weft yarn undertaken weaving obtained fancy suiting grey cloth, fancy suiting grey cloth is carried out post processing and gets product;
Weaving process is: warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection; Wherein, speed of beaming 250 revs/min, ensures that passage is smooth, beaming speed 40 revs/min; Use circular port heald, guarantee that yarn can freely pass through; Loom Shu Mite, ensures that each channels clean is smooth, prevents hook to hinder solubility long filament outside yarn, causes yarn strength rapid drawdown and cause weaving efficiency low; Loom technological parameter is arranged as follows: warp tension 240kg, speed 250 revs/min, back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm, and by small tension receiving coil, the low speed of a motor vehicle performs;
Aftertreatment technology is: move back dimension → baking → singe → open washing → baking → middle inspection → ripe and repair → bristle → cropping → softness → dewing → hot light → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein, the principle of necessary strict implement small tension control in Final finishing production process, avoids impact not enough through tropism, improves final finished tearing brute force in addition; Move back dimension, 95 degree, 30 minutes; Determine that PVA cleans up, anti-retaining dimension is unclean and make grey cloth hardening after high temperature; Wash contracting: platen pressure: 0.7kg/m 2, moment: 12cm, the speed of a motor vehicle: 150m/min, initial temperature≤32 DEG C, Mao Nengjing: add the hair energy water purification solution that hair energy nt wt net weight percentage is 2%, rinse: speed=120m/min, 20min washed by every 60m cloth; Singe: because face is frivolous, this product speed of singing is increased to 100 ms/min, singes in front, adopts the mode of cutting burning, the brute force avoiding affecting finished product of trying one's best.
Australia's hair that Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft of the present invention utilizes number very not high, the PVA fiber blend of cashmere and solubility, in the high-quality that International Wool Secretariat promotes, " WOOL/PVA " i.e. " wool/PVA " of low cost is technically further again, add cashmere, and overcome a series of difficult problems that different material carries out blending, formulate a series of rational bar dye, spinning, weave, postfinishing process is to ensure that each raw material plays respective effect and makes finished product produce a desired effect, define " WOOL/CASHMERE/PVA " i.e. " wool/cashmere/PVA " new technology, in this technology, cashmere adds, the feel of pure wool fabric is greatly improved, product quality class improves, especially containing the cashmere of 30% in product of the present invention, make fabric texture fine and smooth, smooth, gloss nature, soft but be no lack of elasticity, draping property is good, have splendid wearability, and PVA long filament and the collocation of PVA short fiber are used, first add 15%PVA short fiber and bar made by wool, cashmere in the recombing of bar dye, again spin time and the doubling of solubility long filament, warp thread have employed cladded yarn technique and adds 35DPVA long filament, weaves brute force to this increase, Final finishing move back dimension PVA is dissolved after, finished product number is warp thread yarn count 70/1, weft yarn yarn count 60/1, and finished product fabric is fluffy, light weight, flexible, breathable etc. are functional, owing to adopting single-warp single-abb technique, fabric has splendid wrinkle resistance, reaches 11% natural elasticity simultaneously.
The present invention's beneficial effect is compared with prior art:
Fabric of the present invention, owing to have employed PVA long filament and PVA short fiber collocation use, warp thread have employed cladded yarn technique and adds 35D PVA long filament, enhances and weaves brute force, and Final finishing is moved back, and the rear finished product fabric of dimension is fluffy, light weight, flexible, breathable; Owing to adopting single-warp single-abb technique, fabric has splendid wrinkle resistance, reaches 11% natural elasticity simultaneously; Again because containing the cashmere of 30% in fabric, make the class of product further promote, fabric texture is fine and smooth, smooth, and gloss is natural, soft but be no lack of elasticity, and draping property is good, has splendid wearability.
Detailed description of the invention
Embodiment 1
(1), with 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and 2.1DPVA short fiber for raw material, add PVA short fiber and bar made by Australia's hair, cashmere when the recombing of bar dye, wherein each raw material weight ratio is 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%; Bar dyeing technique is: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar; Wherein, first spinning portion's dewing before cashmere silver mixing, off time is more than 12 hours; Before dyeing, cashmere and wool require silver mixing 2 times; Adopt vapour Bagong Si Lanna uniformly dyeing material during dyeing, and add the blue Q of Miller and the wool protective agent except the blue Q of Miller; During after backwashing, drying room temperature is no more than 110 DEG C; Strictly press PVA product requirement during silver mixing to control, silver mixing needs evenly;
(2), above-mentioned obtained finished product bar is carried out spinning and make warp thread and weft yarn, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread singles yarn count is 60, for first with 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber then when spinning and the corespun composite yarn of 35D PVA long filament outsourcing that formed of 35D PVA long filament doubling, weight ratio is wherein 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, 16.15 μm cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%,, after finished product moves back dimension through yarn yarn count be 70/1; Described weft yarn singles yarn count is 51, and for being formed by 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber, weight ratio is wherein 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%, and it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension;
Spinning process is: scalp acupuncture → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → yarn steaming → winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Wherein scalp acupuncture requires to do twice; Spun yarn is put on four roller fine spining machines and is produced, drafting multiple 10 ~ 15; Yarn steaming: pressure 0.88MPa, temperature 30-90 DEG C during spun yarn yarn steaming, 90 DEG C of insulations 20 minutes, pressure 0.88MPa when adding yarn steaming after PVA long filament, temperature 30-80 DEG C, 80 DEG C of insulations 20 minutes;
(3), by above-mentioned obtained warp thread and weft yarn undertaken weaving obtained fancy suiting grey cloth, fancy suiting grey cloth is carried out post processing and gets product;
Weaving process is: warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection; Wherein, speed of beaming 250 revs/min, ensures that passage is smooth, beaming speed 40 revs/min; Use circular port heald; Loom Shu Mite, ensures that each channels clean is smooth; Loom technological parameter is: warp tension 240kg, speed 250 revs/min, back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm;
Aftertreatment technology is: move back dimension → baking → singe → open washing → baking → middle inspection → ripe and repair → bristle → cropping → softness → dewing → hot light → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein, move back dimension, 95 degree, 30 minutes, determine that PVA cleans up; Wash contracting: platen pressure: 0.7kg/m 2, moment: 12cm, the speed of a motor vehicle: 150m/min, initial temperature≤32 DEG C, Mao Nengjing: add the hair energy water purification solution that hair energy nt wt net weight percentage is 2%, rinse: speed=120m/min, 20min washed by every 60m cloth; Singing: speed 100 ms/min, singes in front, adopts the mode of cutting burning.
Obtained Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft finished product warp count 528/10 centimetres, weft count 420/10 centimetres, fabric width 154cm, the heavy 220g/m of rice.
The above, be only the specific embodiment of the present invention, but protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any change of expecting without creative work or replacement, all should be encompassed within protection scope of the present invention.Therefore, the protection domain that protection scope of the present invention should limit with claims is as the criterion.

Claims (1)

1. a production method for Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft, its step is as follows:
(1), with 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and 2.1DPVA short fiber for raw material, add PVA short fiber and bar made by Australia's hair, cashmere when the recombing of bar dye, wherein each raw material weight ratio is 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%; Bar dyeing technique is: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar; Wherein, first spinning portion's dewing before cashmere silver mixing, off time is more than 12 hours; Before dyeing, cashmere and wool require silver mixing 2 times; Adopt vapour Bagong Si Lanna uniformly dyeing material during dyeing, and add the blue Q of Miller and the wool protective agent except the blue Q of Miller; During after backwashing, drying room temperature is no more than 110 DEG C; Strictly press PVA product requirement during silver mixing to control, silver mixing needs evenly;
(2), above-mentioned obtained finished product bar is carried out spinning and make warp thread and weft yarn, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread singles yarn count is 60, for first with 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber then when spinning and the corespun composite yarn of 35D PVA long filament outsourcing that formed of 35D PVA long filament doubling, weight ratio is wherein 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, 16.15 μm cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%, after finished product moves back dimension through yarn yarn count be 70/1; Described weft yarn singles yarn count is 51, and for being formed by 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs, 16.15 μm of cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber, weight ratio is wherein 17.5 μm of Australia's hairs 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%, and it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension;
Spinning process is: scalp acupuncture → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → yarn steaming → winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Wherein scalp acupuncture requires to do twice; Spun yarn is put on four roller fine spining machines and is produced, drafting multiple 10 ~ 15; Yarn steaming: pressure 0.88MPa, temperature 30-90 DEG C during spun yarn yarn steaming, 90 DEG C of insulations 20 minutes, pressure 0.88MPa when adding yarn steaming after PVA long filament, temperature 30-80 DEG C, 80 DEG C of insulations 20 minutes;
(3), by above-mentioned obtained warp thread and weft yarn undertaken weaving obtained fancy suiting grey cloth, fancy suiting grey cloth is carried out post processing and gets product;
Weaving process is: warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection; Wherein, speed of beaming 250 revs/min, ensures that passage is smooth, beaming speed 40 revs/min; Use circular port heald; Loom Shu Mite, ensures that each channels clean is smooth; Loom technological parameter is: warp tension 240kg, speed 250 revs/min, back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm;
Aftertreatment technology is: move back dimension → baking → singe → open washing → baking → middle inspection → ripe and repair → bristle → cropping → softness → dewing → hot light → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein, move back dimension, 95 degree, 30 minutes, determine that PVA cleans up; Wash contracting: platen pressure: 0.7kg/m 2, moment: 12cm, the speed of a motor vehicle: 150m/min, initial temperature≤32 DEG C, Mao Nengjing: add the hair energy water purification solution that hair energy nt wt net weight percentage is 2%, rinse: speed=120m/min, 20min washed by every 60m cloth; Singing: speed 100 ms/min, singes in front, adopts the mode of cutting burning.
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