CN101061995A - Cosmetic including natural substance having sun-screening function - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a cosmetic product with natural sun-screening material, which is characterized by the following: comprising mycosporine-like amino acids (Mycosporine-like amino acids: MAAs); possessing natural sun-screening material in the cosmetic product; possessing strong ultraviolet absorbing ability; possessing good sun-screening, high safety and low cost.

Description

A kind of cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function

[technical field]

The present invention relates to a kind of sun care preparations, especially a kind of cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function.

[background technology]

Sunlight middle-ultraviolet lamp direct irradiation can cause skin damage in various degree on skin, as erythema, burn, daylight type dermatitis, serious also can cause skin carcinoma.Be subjected to the influence of industrial pollution, atmospheric ozone layer is thin day by day, and the ultraviolet radiation that causes arriving ground constantly strengthens, and people are more paid close attention to the protection of skin.Therefore, sun-proof one of a focus of consumers in general's concern and main direction of current international cosmetics development of having become.At present, existing sunscreen product is mainly by adding the organic sunscreen agent that absorbs ultraviolet radiation, as organic sunscreen agent such as octyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-3, octyldimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethise, but add the side effect such as allergy that a large amount of organic uv absorbers causes skin easily.The inorganic sunscreen that some sunscreen products adding scatterings or reflect UV radiation are also arranged, as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide etc.And add the cost that a large amount of inorganic sunscreen not only can increase product, but also can influence skin sense and skin appearance.In addition, these sunscreen obtain by artificial chemosynthesis mostly, directly act on the problem that there is side effect all the time in human body.

[summary of the invention]

The object of the present invention is to provide a kind ofly can not cause skin allergy, do not influence skin sense and skin appearance, the cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function of low cost of manufacture.

Purpose of the present invention is achieved by following technical proposals.

A kind of cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function comprise Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs), and its structural formula is

The content of described Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs) is 0.5-40% (mass percent).

The content of described Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs) is 10-30% (mass percent).

The content of described Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs) is 15% (mass percent).

The present invention also comprises salicyclic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivates, cinnamon derivative, P-aminobenzoic acid derivative, β, β-diphenylacrylate, camphor derivatives, pyrrolotriazine derivatives and titanium dioxide, the combination of one or more in zinc oxide or the ultramicro-pigment.

The cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function of the present invention also contain and at least aly are selected from following accent and add agent except containing Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs): fat, organic solvent, softening agent, antioxidant, ion or non-ionic thickening agent, stabilizing agent, vitamin, antiseptic, surfactant, spice, dyestuff, pigment, chelating agen, acidulant and basifier.

The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: the natural sun-prevention agent of extracting by Sargassum---Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs) absorb ultraviolet ability strong (absorbing the ultraviolet peak-peak is 310-360nm), nontoxic, tasteless, extraction process is simple, the cosmetics sun-proof result that contains this material is good, safe, cost is low, do not influence the taste of cosmetics, and for pH value (between the pH3 to pH10) change, (dosage is up to 3Wm for variations in temperature (between 20 to 70 ℃) and high dose ^-2) the ultraviolet radiation state highly stable.

[specific embodiment]

The invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.

The present invention is a kind of cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function, this natural substance having sun-screening function is meant Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs), the Clotrimazole amino acid extracts from marine algae, the method of extracting is to utilize the methanol of 30-100% or ethanol to extract, and extracting temperature is 0-80 degree centigrade.Marine algae comprises wherein a kind of of algae such as Thallus Porphyrae, Bangia fuscopurpurea, Thallus Gracilariae, Shi Chun, little coralline algae, gloiopeltis, dulse, chondrus ocellatus Holmes, Eucheuma gelatinosum, Grateloupia filicina (Wulf.), Gracilaria tenuistipitata, hailian seaweed.

In component of the present invention, except containing Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-likeamino acids:MAAs), also contain at least and a kind ofly be selected from following accent and add agent: fat, organic solvent, softening agent, antioxidant, ion or non-ionic thickening agent, stabilizing agent, vitamin, antiseptic, surfactant, spice, dyestuff, pigment, chelating agen, acidulant and basifier.The optimum content span of Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs) in cosmetics is to select in 0.5-40% (mass percent), and the following examples will prove absolutely this point.And its optimum value is 15% (mass percent).

In order to make beneficial effect of the present invention better, can add salicyclic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivates, cinnamon derivative, P-aminobenzoic acid derivative, β, β-diphenylacrylate, camphor derivatives, pyrrolotriazine derivatives and titanium dioxide, the combination of one or more in zinc oxide or the ultramicro-pigment.This class component is an inorganic sunscreen, adds this class inorganic sunscreen order and makes sun-proof result of the present invention better.

Embodiment 1: contain marine algae (Thallus Porphyrae) extract---the sunscreen of Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs):

Take by weighing 10 gram Thallus Porphyraes, the broken back of milling adds 1000 milliliter of 90% methanol, extracts 5 hours under 37 ℃ of conditions.Utilize the vacuum distillation device to reclaim methanol at 65 ℃, the remaining liq natural air drying obtains the natural ultraviolet absorber of Thallus Porphyrae.

Make sunscreen by following prescription:

Component:	Mass percent (%)
		Clotrimazole amino acid MAAs	40
Titanium dioxide	2
		Para-amino benzoic acid	2
Stearic acid	3
		Liquid paraffin	15
Octadecanol	5
		Dimethicone	3
Polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan monooleate	4
		Glycerol	5
Propylene glycol	3

Triethanolamine	1
		Vitamin e acetate	0.1
Ethyl hydroxybenzoate	0.2
		Essence	0.5
Deionized water	16.2

Preparation process:

A: stearic acid, liquid paraffin, octadecanol, dimethicone, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan monooleate, para-amino benzoic acid are heated to 70 ℃ of stirring and dissolving, as the A phase;

B: glycerol, propylene glycol, triethanolamine, titanium dioxide are dissolved in the deionized water, are heated to 90 ℃, insulation 15min; Be cooled to 72 ℃ and add Sargassum (Thallus Porphyrae) natural extract MAAs, stir, as the B phase;

C: B is slowly joined the A phase mutually, after stirring mixture is cooled to 45 ℃, add vitamin e acetate, ethyl hydroxybenzoate and essence, stir the room temperature discharging.

Embodiment 2: contain marine algae (Bangia fuscopurpurea) extract---the sunscreen of Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs):

Take by weighing 10 gram Bangia fuscopurpurea, the broken back of milling adds 1000 milliliter of 80% methanol, extracts 12 hours under 4 ℃ of conditions.Utilize the vacuum distillation device to reclaim methanol at 65 ℃, the remaining liq natural air drying obtains the natural ultraviolet absorber of Thallus Porphyrae.

Make sunscreen by following prescription:

Component:	Mass percent (%)
		Clotrimazole amino acid MAAs	0.5
Titanium dioxide	15

Para-amino benzoic acid	5
		Stearic acid	3
Liquid paraffin	15
		Octadecanol	5
Dimethicone	3
		Polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan monooleate	4
Glycerol	5
		Propylene glycol	3
Triethanolamine	1
		Vitamin e acetate	0.1
Ethyl hydroxybenzoate	0.2
		Essence	0.2
Deionized water	40

Preparation process:

A: stearic acid, liquid paraffin, octadecanol, dimethicone, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan monooleate, para-amino benzoic acid are heated to 70 ℃ of stirring and dissolving, as the A phase;

B: glycerol, propylene glycol, triethanolamine, titanium dioxide are dissolved in the deionized water, are heated to 90 ℃, insulation 15min; Be cooled to 73 ℃ and add Sargassum (Bangia fuscopurpurea) natural extract MAAs, stir, as the B phase;

C: with the mutually cold A phase that slowly joins of B, after stirring mixture is cooled to 40 ℃, add vitamin e acetate, ethyl hydroxybenzoate and essence, stir the room temperature discharging

Embodiment 3: the sun water that contains Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs):

Take by weighing 10 gram Bangia fuscopurpurea, the broken back of milling adds 1000 milliliter of 80% methanol, extracts 2 hours under 50 ℃ of conditions.Utilize the vacuum distillation device to reclaim methanol at 65 ℃, the remaining liq natural air drying obtains the natural ultraviolet absorber of Thallus Porphyrae.

Make sun water by following prescription:

Component:	Mass percent (%)
		Clotrimazole amino acid MAAs	15
The amino benzoic Acid menthyl ester	1
		Ethylglycol salicylate	3
Sorbitol	4
		Ethanol	50
Essence	0.2
		Distilled water	26.8

Manufacture method: with adding solid after the liquid mixing, stir, place 1-2 week, then 0 ℃ freezing 24 hours, obtain finished product behind the sample filtering.

Above said content only is the basic explanation of the present invention under conceiving, and according to any equivalence transformation that technical scheme of the present invention is done, all should belong to protection scope of the present invention.

In order to prove its sun-proof ability, we adopt following evaluation methodology that it is tested:

Sun-proof result evaluation methodology 1 and result: on behalf of skin, (3M TransporeTM) make carrier with medical adhesive tape, coating sun care preparations: 2mg/cm ², in the 250-400nm scope, every nanometer is measured its light absorption value at interval.Result such as figure below:

From figure as can be known, the cosmetics that do not add sunscreen do not absorb in the ultra-violet (UV) band, and the sample that adds the marine alga natural sunscreen has absorption in the UV-A section, and degree of absorption increases along with the increase of addition; The sample that adds 10% para-amino benzoic acid (sun care preparations industry UV-B absorbent commonly used) has strong absorption and absorbs very little not absorption in the UV-A section in the UV-B section; The sample that adds marine alga natural sunscreen and para-amino benzoic acid simultaneously then all has bigger absorption at UV-B and UV-A wave band, can effectively reduce erythemal effect (UV-B) and blackening effect (UV-A) that the sun causes

Sun-proof result evaluation methodology 2 and result:

Adopt The People's Republic of China's light industry industry standard (QB/T 2410-1998): the evaluation methodology-ultraviolet absorptivity method of sun care preparations UVB district sun-proof result.Its sun-proof result such as following table:

Sample	Sun-proof result	Service condition
			Do not add the sunscreen sample	Sun-proof result is lower than minimum protection effect or unshielded effect
Add 5% marine alga natural	Sun-proof result is lower than minimum anti-

The sunscreen sample	Protect effect or unshielded effect
			Add 10% marine alga natural sunscreen sample	Minimum protection ultraviolet light effect	In winter, summer is sunlight and cloudy day sooner or later
Add 20% marine alga natural sunscreen sample	Minimum protection ultraviolet light effect	In winter, summer is sunlight and cloudy day sooner or later
			Add 10% para-amino benzoic acid sample	Medium protection ultraviolet light effect	The moderate strength solar radiation
Add 10% para-amino benzoic acid and 20% marine alga natural sunscreen sample	Protect the ultraviolet light effect fully	Outwork, sunburst irradiation in summer

Sun-proof result evaluation methodology 3 and result:

The SPF assay method: on behalf of skin, (3M TransporeTM) make carrier with medical adhesive tape, coating sun care preparations: 2mg/cm2, in the 290-400nm scope, every interval 5nm, measure the transmitance of each wavelength, try to achieve the T (λ) of each wavelength,, calculate spf value by following formula according to erythemal effect coefficient, the width of cloth photograph intensity of different wave length UV sunlight in the table 1:

$\mathrm{SPF}=\frac{{\mathrm{\Σ}}_{290}^{320}\mathrm{EE}\left(\mathrm{\λ}\right)I\left(\mathrm{\λ}\right)}{{\mathrm{\Σ}}_{290}^{320}\mathrm{EE}\left(\mathrm{\λ}\right)I\left(\mathrm{\λ}\right)T\left(\mathrm{\λ}\right)}$

Table 1: solar ultraviolet radiation intensity and application on human skin erythemal effect coefficient

Wavelength (nm)	Sunlight ultraviolet radiation intensity (J/cm2)	The erythemal effect coefficient
			290 295 300 305 310 315 320 325 330 335 340 345	0.00000368 0.000797 0.0128 0.0651 0.171 0.295 0.398 0.536 0.63 0.65 0.68 0.69	1 1 0.65 0.22 0.074 0.025 0.0086 0.0029 0.0014 0.0012 0.00097 0.00081

350 355 360 365 370 375 380 385 390 395 400

0.7 0.71 0.73 0.75 0.78 0.8 0.83 0.85 0.9 0.93 0.97

0.00068 0.00057 0.00048 0.0004 0.00034 0.00029 0.00024 0.0002 0.00017 0.00014 0.00012

The spf value of cosmetics that adds different UV screening agent is as follows:

Sample	Do not add the sunscreen sample	Add 5% marine alga natural sunscreen sample	Add 10% marine alga natural sunscreen sample	Add 20% marine alga natural sunscreen sample	Add 10% para-amino benzoic acid sample	Add 10% para-amino benzoic acid and 20% marine alga natural sunscreen sample
							Spf value	1.8	2.1	4	11	8.7	25

In sum, the natural ultraviolet absorber of marine algae can improve the sun-proof ability of sun care preparations, particularly UV-A district effectively.Therefore it is a kind of ideal natural ultraviolet blocker, addition 10-30% the best.

The object of the present invention is achieved like this:

The extraction of Clotrimazole amino acid (MAAs): Sargassum (Thallus Porphyrae, Bangia fuscopurpurea etc.) after abundant fragmentation, ethanol or methanol with 20-100%, by 1: 50-200 adds [being that 1g contains Sargassum (Thallus Porphyrae) adding 50-200ml ethanol/methanol solution], extracted 1-10 hour under the 0-80 ℃ of condition, obtain Clotrimazole amino acid (MAAs) crude extract after the extracting solution drying.Illustrate the absorption spectrum of marine alga natural extract MAAs down in the ultraviolet-visible light district

Marine alga natural extract MAAs crude extract is at the absorption spectrum in ultraviolet-visible light district

Claims (5)

1. cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function comprise Clotrimazole amino acid (Mycosporine-like amino acids:MAAs), and its structural formula is

2. the cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: also comprise salicyclic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivates, cinnamon derivative, P-aminobenzoic acid derivative, β, β-diphenylacrylate, camphor derivatives, pyrrolotriazine derivatives and titanium dioxide, a kind of, two or more combination in zinc oxide or the ultramicro-pigment.

3. the cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: the content of described Clotrimazole amino acid is the 0.5-40% mass percent.

4. the cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function according to claim 2 is characterized in that: the content of described Clotrimazole amino acid is the 10-30% mass percent.

5. the cosmetics that contain natural substance having sun-screening function according to claim 3 is characterized in that: the content of described Clotrimazole amino acid is 15% mass percent.