AU2006326361B2 - Hair treatment compositions - Google Patents

Hair treatment compositions Download PDF

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Publication number
AU2006326361B2
AU2006326361B2 AU2006326361A AU2006326361A AU2006326361B2 AU 2006326361 B2 AU2006326361 B2 AU 2006326361B2 AU 2006326361 A AU2006326361 A AU 2006326361A AU 2006326361 A AU2006326361 A AU 2006326361A AU 2006326361 B2 AU2006326361 B2 AU 2006326361B2
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Australia
Prior art keywords
hair
alkyl
oligopeptide
acid
amino acid
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AU2006326361A1 (en
Inventor
Fraser Ian Bell
Karen Maria Devine
Ezat Khoshdel
Yann Leray
Teresa Lyons
Colina Mackay
Yvonne Christine Plant
Richard Skinner
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Unilever PLC
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Unilever PLC
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Description

WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION 5 The invention relates to hair treatment compositions which comprise a combination of a sugar, an oligopeptide and an amino acid. The compositions are particularly suitable for 10 the treatment of hair which is dry, damaged and/or prone to manageability problems. BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART 15 Hair can suffer damage from a number of sources. For example, environmental sources of hair damage include such as exposure to UV and chlorine. Chemical sources of hair damage include treatments such as bleaching, perming and 20 straightening, and overly frequent washing with harsh surfactant-based cleansing shampoo compositions. Mechanical sources of hair damage include excessive brushing and combing and prolonged use of heated appliances for drying and styling the hair. 25 Damage to the hair typically manifests itself in cuticle and protein loss from the hair fibre, hair fibre dryness, hair fibre brittleness and breakage and frayed or split ends. Dry, damaged hair is particularly prone to manageability 30 problems, resulting in symptoms such as "flyaway" hair which WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 -2 is difficult to style or which does not retain a style, especially under conditions such as high humidity. Various organic molecules and combinations thereof have been 5 suggested for use in the treatment of dry, damaged and/or unmanageable hair. For example, WO 2004054526 describes -hair treatment compositions for the care and repair of damaged hair, and 10 for improving hair manageability, comprising a disaccharide, (in particular trehalose), and a diacid (in particular adipic acid). WO 2004054525 describes hair treatment compositions for the 15 care and repair of damaged hair, and for improving hair manageability, comprising a disaccharide (in particular trehalose), and a diol (in particular 3-methyl-1,3 butanediol). 20 WO 2004006874 describes hair treatment compositions for repairing and preventing the principal symptoms of damaged hair, comprising specific branched amine and/or hydroxy compounds (in particular 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol). 25 The present inventors have found that hair treatment compositions comprising a combination of a sugar, a oligopeptide and an amino acid show improved efficacy in the treatment of hair which is dry, damaged and/or prone to manageability problems. 30 -3 SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to one aspect the present invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising a combination of a 5 sugar, an oligopeptide and an amino acid in which the sugar is trehalose. According to another aspect the invention also provides the use of the above composition in the treatment of dry, 10 damaged and/or unmanageable hair. According to a further aspect the invention also provides a method to improve the manageability of hair comprising the step of applying to the hair a hair treatment composition 15 comprising a combination of an oligopeptide and an amino acid. DETAILED DESCRIPTION AND PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 20 Sugar The composition of the invention comprises at least one sugar. 25 By 'sugar' is generally meant monosaccharides, disaccharides and lower oligosaccharides (typically containing between 3 and 6 monosaccharide units linked together by glycosidic bonds).
C .RPorbIDCCTXS\2702599I DOC-2/02/2010 -3a Monosaccharides have the molecular formula (CH 2 0),, where n may be any integer from 3 to 8. Monosaccharides contain from 2 to 7 hydroxyl groups, depending on the number of carbon atoms, and either a ketone or an aldehyde group. 5 The monosaccharides containing an aldehyde group are conventionally called "aldoses" and the monosaccharides WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 -4 containing a ketone group are conventionally called "ketoses". Monosaccharides containing 4, 5, 6 or 7 carbon atoms are 5 termed tetroses, pentoses, hexoses and heptoses, respectively. The pentoses and hexoses can cyclize to furanose and pyranose rings, respectively. In an aqueous medium, pentoses 10 and hexoses will exist mainly in cyclic form. Examples of aldoses are: erythrose and threose (which are tetroses), ribose, arabinose, xylose and lyxose, (which are pentoses), and allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, 15 idose, galactose and talose (which are hexoses). Examples of ketoses are: erythrulose (which is a tetrose), ribulose and xylulose (which are pentoses), and psicose, fructose, sorbose and tagatose (which are hexoses). 20 The ketoses can also have cyclic forms. For example, fructose can have the fructofuranose or fructopyranose form. If two of the above described, identical or different 25 monosaccharides are joined by a glycosidic linkage, the resulting saccharides are denoted as disaccharides. The linkages are preferably alpha-O-glycosidic or beta-O glycosidic linkages, for example (1-2)-, (1-3)-, (1-4)-, and (1-6)- glycosidic linkages. 30 Disaccharides are preferred for use in the invention.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 -5 Preferred disaccharides for use in the invention are formed from monosaccharides selected from aldopentoses, ketopentoses, aldohexoses, ketohexoses, and mixtures thereof. 5 More preferably the disaccharides are formed from monsaccharide untis selected from aldohexoses and ketohexoses, and mixtures thereof. 10 Most preferably the disaccharides are formed from monosaccharide units selected from glucose, fructose and galactose, and mixtures thereof. Examples of suitable disaccharides for use in the invention 15 are: trehalose (alpha-D-Glucopyranosyl alpha-D-glucopyranoside), sophorose (beta-D-Glucopyranosyl-(1-2)-D-glucose), kojibiose (alpha-D-Glucopyranosyl-(12)-D-glucose), laminarabiose (beta-D-Glucopyranosyl-(1-3)-D-glucose), 20 nigerose (alpha-D-Glucopyranosyl-(1-3)-D-glucose), maltose (alpha-D-Glucopyranosyl-(1-.4)-D-glucose), cellobiose (beta-D-Glucopyranosyl-(1-4)-D-glucose), isomaltose (alpha-D-Glucopyranosyl-(1-6)-D-glucose), gentiobiose (beta-D-Glucopyranosyl-(1-6)-D-glucose), 25 sucrose (beta-D-Fructofuranosyl alpha-D-glucopyranoside), melibiose (alpha-D-Galactopyranosyl-(16)-D-glucose, lactose (beta-D-Galactopyranosyl-(1-4)-D-glucose, turanose (alpha-D-Glucopyranosyl-(1-3)-D-fructose). 30 Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in the composition of the invention.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 -6 Trehalose is the most preferred disaccharide. The total amount of sugar in hair treatment compositions of 5 the invention generally ranges from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 3%, and is more preferably about 1.5% (by total weight sugar based on the total weight of the composition). 10 Oligopeptide The composition of the invention comprises at least one oligopeptide. 15 By "oligopeptide" is generally meant a peptide formed from 2 to 10 amino acids linked together by peptide bonds. The term "amino acid" denotes a molecule containing both an amino group and a carboxyl group. The amino acid may belong 20 to the L-or D-series or may be racemic. Examples of suitable amino acids forming the oligopeptide include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, cystine, methionine, aspartic 25 acid, asparagine, glutamine, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, hydroxyproline, phenylalanine, tyrosine and tryptophan. Preferably the oligopeptide for use in the invention is a 30 dipeptide or tripeptide, i.e. a peptide formed from 2 or 3 amino acids linked together by peptide bonds.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 -7 Examples of suitable dipeptides and tripeptides include glycylglycine, alanylalanine, glycylalanine, alanylglycine glutamylglutamic acid, glycylglycylglycine, glycylalanylserine, glycylphenylalanine, 5 alanylcysteinylglycine, glycylalanylvaline, glutamylcysteinylglycine and leucylglycylglycine. Preferably the oligopeptide for use in the invention is formed from aliphatic amino acids. 10 The term "aliphatic amino acid" denotes an amino acid having an aliphatic side chain. Examples of suitable aliphatic amino acids forming the 15 oligopeptide include those having the general formula: CH(COOH) (NHR ) (R2) in which R 1 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 20 carbon atoms, and R 2 is selected from H, -CH 3 , -CH(CH 3
)
2 , CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 and -CH (CH 3 ) -CH 2
CH
3 More preferably the oligopeptide for use in the invention is a dipeptide or tripeptide formed from aliphatic amino acids. 25 Examples of suitable dipeptides and tripeptides formed from aliphatic amino acids include glycylglycine, alanylalanine, glycylalanine, alanylglycine and glycylglycylglycine. Most preferred is glycylglycine. 30 The total amount of oligopeptide in hair treatment compositions of the invention generally ranges from 0.01 to WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 -8 10%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% (by total weight oligopeptide based on the total weight of the composition). 5 Amino Acid The composition of the invention comprises at least one amino acid. 10 The term "amino acid" denotes a molecule containing both an amino group and a carboxyl group. The amino acid may belong to the L-or D-series or may be racemic. Basic amino acids are preferred for use in the invention. 15 The term "basic amino acid" denotes an amino acid which contains more basic groups (such as amino, amidino or guanidino) than carboxylic groups. Examples of such basic amino acids are natural and unnatural diamino-monocarboxylic acids, such as alpha,beta-diaminopropionic acid, alpha, 20 gamma-diaminobutyric acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, ornithine and p-aminophenylalanine. The basic amino acids are often isolated from natural sources in the form of salts and hydrosalts, which are also 25 suitable for use in the invention. Such salts and hydrosalts are formed by reaction with mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulphuric acid, nitric acid, and the like, or the organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid 30 and the like. A suitable example is arginine hydrochloride.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 -9 It is also possible to employ other derivatives such as N substituted derivatives. These too may be used as salts or hydrosalts. Examples of N-substituted derivatives are N alkanoyl derivatives and N-alkyl derivatives. Typically, in 5 an N-alkanoyl derivative, the alkanoyl group will have an alkyl chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example N-butanoyl, N hexanoyl and N-octanoyl. In an N-alkyl derivative, the alkyl group will typically have an alkyl chain length of from 1 to 10 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl and n-propyl. Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in the composition of the invention. 15 Preferred amino acids for use in the invention are lysine, arginine, histidine, ornithine and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is arginine. 20 The total amount of amino acid in hair treatment compositions of the invention generally ranges from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% (by total weight amino acid based on the total weight of the composition). 25 Product Form Hair treatment compositions according to the invention may suitably take the form of shampoos, conditioners, sprays, 30 mousses, gels, waxes or lotions.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 10 Particularly preferred product forms are shampoos, post-wash conditioners (leave-in and rinse-off) and hair treatment products such as hair oils and lotions. 5 Shampoo Compositions Shampoo compositions of the invention are generally aqueous, i.e. they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component. 10 Suitably, the shampoo composition will comprise from 50 to 98%, preferably from 60 to 90% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition. 15 Anionic Cleansing Surfactant Shampoo compositions according to the invention will generally comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical 20 application to the hair. Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl 25 sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally 30 contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 11 ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule. Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo 5 compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, 10 triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl 15 sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO 20 (where n is from 10 to 20). Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may also be suitable. 25 The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositions of the invention generally ranges from 0.5 to 45%, preferably from 1.5 to 35%, more preferably from 5 to 20% by total weight anionic cleansing surfactant based on the total weight of the composition. 30 WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 12 Further Ingredients Optionally, a shampoo composition of the invention may contain further ingredients as described below to enhance 5 performance and/or consumer acceptability. Co-surfactant The composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart 10 aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition. An example of a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 8%, 15 preferably from 2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include 20 condensation products of aliphatic (C8 - C18) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. 25 Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide. Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo 30 compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 13 of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula: RO - (G)n 5 wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group. R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C5 to 10 about C20. Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C8 to about C12. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G may be selected from C5 or CE monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising 15 glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose. The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies 20 from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies from about 1.3 to about 1.5. Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those 25 materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel. Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions of the invention include the Cio-Ce 30 N-alkyl (Cl-C) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12 C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 14 WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide. 5 A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0.5 to about 8%, preferably from 1 to 4% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. 10 Examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl 15 hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, 20 cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate. A particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine. 25 Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may also be suitable. Preferred mixtures are those of cocamidopropyl betaine with further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium 30 cocoamphoacetate.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 15 The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or any emulsifier) in a shampoo composition of the invention is generally from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, more preferably from 10 to 25% by total weight 5 surfactant based on the total weight of the composition. Cationic Polymers Cationic polymers are preferred ingredients in a shampoo 10 composition of the invention for enhancing conditioning performance. Suitable cationic polymers may be homopolymers which are cationically substituted or may be formed from two or more 15 types of monomers. The weight average (Ms) molecular weight of the polymers will generally be between 100 000 and 2 million daltons. The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof. If the molecular weight 20 of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading to stringiness of the composition when it is poured. 25 The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic 30 Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers having a cationic charge density in the required range, which WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 16 is generally from 0.2 to 3.0 meq/gm. The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination. 5 Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl 10 (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have Cl-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably Cl-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol 15 and ethylene glycol. The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general secondary and tertiary amines, 20 especially tertiary, are preferred. Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerised in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization. 25 The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers. 30 WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 17 Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: -cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium 5 chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; 10 -mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256); 15 -cationic polyacrylamides(as described in W095/22311). Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar 20 gum derivatives. Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include monomers of the formula: 25 A-O-[R-N (Ri) (R 2) (R 3)X], wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an 30 alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R1, R2 and R3 independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 18 alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2 and
R
3 ) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic 5 counterion. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred 10 to in the industry (CTEA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200. Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include 15 quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581). A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, JAGUAR C15, and JAGUAR C17. 20 Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used. Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.01 to 5%, 25 preferably from 0.05 to 1%, more preferably from 0.08 to 0.5% WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 19 by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition. Suspending Agent 5 Preferably an aqueous shampoo composition of the invention further comprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a 10 hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably 15 selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the composition. 20 Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a 25 suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich. Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate 30 esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 20 Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a mixture of cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative. 5 Suspending agent will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 6%, more preferably from 0.9 to 4% by total weight of suspending agent based on the total weight of 10 the composition. Conditioner Compositions Conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more 15 cationic conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactants have the formula N*(R1) (R2) (R3) (R4), wherein R1, R2, R3 and R 4 are 20 independently (C 1 to C 3 0 ) alkyl or benzyl. Preferably, one, two or three of R 1 , R 2
,R
3 and R 4 are 12 3 independently (C 4 to C 30 ) alkyl and the other R , R , R and R 4 group or groups are (C 1
-C
6 ) alkyl or benzyl. 25 1 2 3 4 More preferably, one or two of R, R , R and R are independently (C 6 to C 30 ) alkyl and the other R , R2 , R3 and R4 groups are (C 1
-C
6 ) alkyl or benzyl groups. Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) 30 and/or ether (-0-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 21 branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the 5 alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups. Suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in conditioner compositions according to the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium 10 chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, 15 decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride 20 (e.g., Arquad 2HT/75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof. Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of 25 any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese. Another 30 particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 22 behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant. Another example of a class of suitable cationic conditioning 5 surfactants for use in the invention, either alone or in admixture with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants, is a combination of (i) and (ii) below: (i) an amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I): 10 1 R CONH(CH 2 )mN R3 in which R 1 is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms, R2 and R3 are independently selected from hydrocarbyl 15 chains of from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and (ii) an acid. 20 As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain. Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) in which 25
R
1 is a hydrocarbyl residue having from about 11 to about 24 carbon atoms, WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 23 R2 and R 3 are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups, having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 4. 5 Preferably, R 2 and R 3 are methyl or ethyl groups. Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e. an ethylene or propylene group. 10 Preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamido propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, 15 palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, 20 arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred amidoamines useful herein are 25 stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available amidoamines useful herein include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE S-13 30 available from Inolex (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradename AMIDOAMINE S WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 24 available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with a tradename INCROMINE BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England), and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE series available from Scher (Clifton 5 New Jersey, USA). Acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids useful herein include 10 hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof. 15 The primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition. The TAS in effect is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or 20 pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant. Suitably, the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate all the amidoamine present, i.e. at a level which is at least equimolar to the amount of amidoamine present in 25 the composition. In conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic conditioning surfactant will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5%, most preferably 0.1 to 5% 30 by total weight of cationic conditioning surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 25 Conditioners of the invention will typically also incorporate a fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the 5 formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed. Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22. Fatty alcohols are 10 typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the 15 invention. The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners of the invention will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.2 to 7%, most preferably from 0.3 20 to 6% by weight of the composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:8, optimally from 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the 25 composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers. Hair Oils and Lotions 30 Compositions of the invention may suitably take the form of a hair oil, for pre-wash or post-wash use. Typically, hair oils will predominantly comprise water-insoluble oily WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 26 conditioning materials, such as triglycerides, mineral oil and mixtures thereof. Compositions of the invention may also take the form of a 5 hair lotion, typically for use in between washes. Lotions are aqueous emulsions comprising water-insoluble oily conditioning materials. Suitable surfactants can also be included in lotions to improve their stability to phase separation. 10 Silicone Conditioning Agents Hair treatment compositions according to the invention, particularly water-based shampoos and hair conditioners, will 15 preferably also contain one or more silicone conditioning agents. Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions such as those formed from silicones such 20 as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA 25 designation amodimethicone. The emulsion droplets may typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D 3
,
2 ) in the composition of the invention ranging from 0.01 to 20 micrometer, more preferably from 0.2 30 to 10 micrometer.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 27 A suitable method for measuring the Sauter mean droplet diameter (D 3
,
2 ) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer. 5 Suitable silicone emulsions for use in compositions of the invention are available from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone 10 emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier such as an anionic or nonionic emulsifier, or mixture thereof, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Pre 15 formed silicone emulsions having a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D 3
,
2 ) of less than 0.15 micrometers are generally termed microemulsions. Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include 20 emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from GE 25 Silicones). Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surface active block copolymers of a high molecular weight have been blended with the silicone emulsion 30 droplets, as described for example in W003/094874. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes such as those described WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 28 above. One preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula: HO (CH 2
CH
2 0), x(CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 0) y (CH 2
CH
2 0),x H 5 wherein the mean value of x is 4 or more and the mean value of y is 25 or more. Another preferred form of the surface active block copolymer 10 is according to the following formula: (HO (CH 2
CH
2 0) a (CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 0) b) 2
-N-CH
2
-CH
2 -N ( (OCH 2 CH (CH 3 ) ) b (OCH 2
CH
2 ) a OH) 2 wherein the mean value of a is 2 or more and the mean value 15 of b is 6 or more. Mixtures of any of the above described silicone emulsions may also be used. 20 The above described silicone emulsions will generally be present in a composition of the invention at levels of from 0.05 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 5%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by total weight of silicone based on the total weight of the composition. 25 Other Optional Ingredients A composition of the invention may contain other ingredients 30 for enhancing performance and/or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 29 modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobials. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% 5 by weight of the total composition. Mode of Use Hair treatment compositions of the invention are primarily 10 intended for topical application to the hair and/or scalp of a human subject, either in rinse-off or leave-on compositions, for the treatment of dry, damaged and/or unmanageable hair. 15 The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting Example, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise stated.
WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 30 EXAMPLE Formulations were prepared having ingredients as shown in the following Table 1: 5 Table 1 Formulation ingredients Weight% Example 1 Control Sodium laurylether sulphate 12 12 (2EO) Cocoyl amidopropyldimethyl 2 2 glycine Silicone emulsion 2 2 Guar hydroxypropyl 0.30 0.30 trimethylammonium chloride Preservative 0.35 0.35 Perfume 0.42 0.42 Citric acid 0.17 0.17 Trehalose 1.5 Glycylglycine 0.1 Arginine 0.1 Water and Minors To 100 Weight% The formulation of Example 1 was compared against the control formulation across a number of performance 10 attributes, using a rank sensory methodology. Bleached and coloured Chinese hair switches were treated with the formulation of Example 1 and the control formulation respectively. 15 12 panellists were asked to assess the treated hair switches. Switches treated with the formulation of Example 1 were ranked by the panellists against switches treated with the control formulation, across the following four sensory WO 2007/068401 PCT/EP2006/011818 - 31 attributes: tip alignment, smoothness, ease of comb and dry ends. Sensory data was analysed using a Friedman's two-way ANOVA 5 for ranks. The results (rank mean for each formulation tested) are shown in the following Table 2: 10 Table 2 Sensory Rank mean for Rank mean for Attribute Control Example 1 Tip alignment 1.83 2.17 Smoothness 1.25 2.46 Ease of comb 1.54 2.38 Dry ends 2.79 1.50 15 The sensory attribute rank direction is as follows: Tip alignment: higher rank is better Smoothness: higher rank is better Ease of comb: higher rank is better 20 Dry ends: lower rank is better The results show that, compared to the control, the formulation of Example 1 gives better tip alignment, significantly (>95%) better smoothness, significantly (>95%) 25 better ease of comb and significantly (>95%) reduced dry ends.
P:\WPDOCS\SA15pcolications\20409205 Firm SOPA.dc.16/06/2008 -31A Throughout this specification and the claims which follow, unless the context requires otherwise, the word "comprise", and variations such as "comprises" or "comprising", will be understood to imply the inclusion of a stated integer or 5 step or group of integers or steps but not the exclusion of any other integer or step or group of integers or steps. The reference in this specification to any prior publication (or information derived from it), or to any matter which is 10 known, is not, and should not be taken as, an acknowledgement or admission or any form of suggestion that that prior publication (or information derived from it) or known matter forms part of the common general knowledge in the field of endeavour to which this specification relates. 15

Claims (16)

1. A hair treatment composition comprising a combination of a sugar, an oligopeptide and an amino acid in which 5 the sugar is trehalose.
2. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, in which the oligopeptide is a dipeptide or tripeptide. 10
3. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oligopeptide is formed from aliphatic amino acids having the general formula: 15 CH(COOH) (NHR') (R 2 ) in which R1 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 2 is selected from H, -CH 3 , CH(CH 3 )2, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )2 and -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 CH 3 . 20
4. A hair treatment composition according to Claim 2 or Claim 3, in which the oligopeptide is glycylglycine.
5. A hair treatment composition according to any one of 25 the preceding claims, in which the amino acid is a basic amino acid.
6. A hair treatment composition according to claim 5, in which the amino acid is arginine. 30
7. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of a shampoo, a post-wash conditioner (leave-in or rinse- -33 off), a hair oil or a hair lotion.
8. A method to improve the manageability of hair comprising the step of applying to the hair a hair 5 treatment composition comprising a combination of an oligopeptide and an amino acid.
9. A method according to claim 8, in which the oligopeptide is a dipeptide or tripeptide. 10
10. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oligopeptide is formed from aliphatic amino acids having the general formula: 15 CH(COOH) (NHR') (R 2 ) in which R1 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 2 is selected from H, -CH 3 , CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 and -CH(CH 3 ) -CH 2 CH 3 . 20
11. A method according to Claim 9 or Claim 10, in which the oligopeptide is glycylglycine.
12. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, 25 in which the amino acid is a basic amino acid.
13. A method according to claim 12, in which the amino acid is arginine. 30
14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition is in the form of a shampoo, a post-wash conditioner (leave-in or rinse-off) , a hair oil or a hair lotion. -34
15. A hair treatment composition substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the examples. 5
16. A method to improve the manageability of hair substantially as hereinbefore described.
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