WO2024124310A1 - Composition cosmétique d'écran solaire et son utilisation - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique d'écran solaire et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024124310A1
WO2024124310A1 PCT/BR2022/050492 BR2022050492W WO2024124310A1 WO 2024124310 A1 WO2024124310 A1 WO 2024124310A1 BR 2022050492 W BR2022050492 W BR 2022050492W WO 2024124310 A1 WO2024124310 A1 WO 2024124310A1
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composition
weight
relative
total weight
combinations
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PCT/BR2022/050492
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English (en)
Inventor
Wagner PEREIRA
Flavio DE OLIVEIRA COSTA
Beatriz TAVARES FERREIRA
Pedro Tupinamba Werneck Barroso
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/BR2022/050492 priority Critical patent/WO2024124310A1/fr
Priority to FR2303063A priority patent/FR3142903A1/fr
Publication of WO2024124310A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024124310A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/49—Solubiliser, Solubilising system

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising (a) emulsified carnauba wax, (b) one or more organic UV filters, (c) one or more surfactants, and (d) one or more polymers.
  • the present invention is also directed to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition.
  • UVA/UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
  • the degree of UV protection afforded by a sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB).
  • sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • the inventors of the present invention have surprisingly managed to develop an oil-in-water cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, with satisfactory balance between UVA and UVB protection, with good sensorial attributes and stability that is free of microplastics by incorporating emulsified carnauba wax.
  • the present invention is directed to cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising (a) emulsified carnauba wax, (b) one or more organic UV filters, (c) one or more surfactants, and (d) one or more polymers.
  • the present invention is also directed to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:
  • the amount of emulsified carnauba wax in the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is from about 0.5 % to about 15.0 % by weight, preferably from about 1 .0 % to about 5.0 % by weight, such as from 2.0 % to about 4.0 % by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
  • the one or more surfactants ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 4.5 % by weight, such as from 0.1 to about 4.0 % by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
  • the one or more polymers ranges from about 0.01 % to about 10.0 % by weight, such as from about 1 .0 % to about 6.0 % by weight, from about 1 .5 % to about 5.0 % by weight, from about 2.0 % to about 4.0 % by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/f rag rance, preserving agents, additional solvents, active compounds, vitamins, fillers, emollients, silicones, pigments, and combinations thereof.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention further comprises water as a solvent.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water composition.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor ranging from 30 to 99.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 90 or 99.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 50.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 60.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 70.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 80.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 90. In an embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 99.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is free of styrene/acrylates copolymers.
  • the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition for the manufacture of a product to be used as sunscreen daily product.
  • the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • Emulsified carnauba wax Emulsified carnauba wax
  • the “emulsified carnauba wax” relates to an emulsified and micronized carnauba wax, in a fine and homogeneous dispersion (microdispersion).
  • the emulsified carnauba wax is an oil-in-water-emulsion (O/W) that comprises solid carnauba wax, water and at least one surfactant, marketed under the trademark Hostapur CW by Clariant.
  • the amount of solid carnauba wax in the emulsified carnauba wax is at least about 30.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsified carnauba wax, preferably from about 30.0 % by weight to about 50.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsified carnauba wax.
  • Solid carnauba wax is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and leaf stems of carnauba palms, Copernicia cerifera.
  • the carnauba wax comprises esters of Cis- C32 fatty acids, and C28-C34 alcohols, also containing high amounts of hydroxy acid esters and melting points around 80 and 86 °C.
  • the solid carnauba wax usually comprises from about 80% by weight to about 85% by weight of fatty esters, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of alcohols, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of hydrocarbons, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of free acids, from about 1 % by weight to about 6% by weight of resins, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of lactic components and from about 0.1 % by weight to about 2% by weight of humidity.
  • the amount of water in the emulsified carnauba wax of the present invention is at least about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsified carnauba wax, preferably from about 40% by weight to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsified carnauba wax.
  • the at least one surfactant of the emulsified carnauba wax is selected from the group of anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and combinations thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are selected from the group comprising alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, sulfonates, such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, tau
  • Non limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention include, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, such as polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (
  • the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and derivatives (e.g. Biophilic), sugar esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate.
  • the surfactants used in the emulsified carnauba wax are isotridecyl phosphate and laureth-23.
  • the emulsified carnauba wax of the present invention may also comprise additional ingredients such as preserving agents and solvents.
  • preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention includes phenoxyethanol.
  • solvent which can be used in accordance with the invention includes glycerin.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises one or more organic UV filters.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition may further comprise an inorganic UV filter.
  • Non-limiting suitable UV filters of the present invention could be as follows:
  • oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.
  • Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as
  • Cinnamic derivatives As examples of other suitable oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of those denoted herein below under their INCI name: Cinnamic derivatives:
  • cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • Salicylic derivatives examples include, but are not limited to, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.
  • Beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives examples include, but are not limited to, octocrylene and etocrylene.
  • benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 , benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate +” or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.
  • Suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured.
  • Suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion.
  • triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)->s triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY,
  • An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, methyl anthranilate.
  • An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15.
  • 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene.
  • benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, and combinations thereof.
  • the “water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4- Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference; and cinnamido amine
  • the salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2- hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts.
  • Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used.
  • the sodium salt is preferably used.
  • the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and combinations thereof.
  • the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, and most preferably about 1 % to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the one or more UV filters of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is selected from drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, and combinations thereof.
  • the one or more UV filter of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention selected from drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and combinations thereof.
  • the one or more UV filter of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, homosalate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and combinations thereof.
  • the one or more UV filter of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is a combination of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, homosalate, and bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.
  • the one or more UV filter of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is a combination of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate and octocrylene.
  • the one or more organic UV filter of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may be selected from isotridecyl phosphate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and combinations thereof.
  • the one or more organic UV filter of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 10% to about 40% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 15% to about 38% by weight, and most preferably about 20% to about 36% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may further comprise one or more additional polymers.
  • Such additional polymers may be selected from rheology modifier polymers and anionic polymers which may be water-soluble or water-dispersible at a pH of 7 and at room temperature (25°C).
  • the suitable polymers of the present invention could be as follows.
  • the rheology modifier polymers are pre-neutralized and preferably selected from taurate polymers.
  • Such polymers comprise an ionic monomer portion, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as a further, less polar monomer portion (vinylpyrrolidone or beheneth-25 methacrylate).
  • AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid
  • VPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid
  • These polymers are used as thickener and as stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions and form extremely stable emulsions already at low concentrations.
  • these polymers can be used in conjunction with almost any oil phase, comprising silicone oils, hydrocarbons/waxes and ester oils.
  • taurate polymers are Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate
  • Anionic polymers may be polymers with anionic groups distributed along the polymer backbone.
  • Anionic groups which may include carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate, nitrate, or other negatively charged or ionizable groupings, may be disposed upon groups pendant from the backbone or may be incorporated in the backbone itself.
  • the anionic polymers may comprise at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
  • the copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:
  • Non-limiting examples of (Cio-C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are for example chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and combinations thereof.
  • crosslinked polymers may be chosen according to further exemplary embodiments.
  • such polymers may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
  • R2 is chosen from H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Anionic polymers useful herein include, for example: Polyacrylic acid; Polymethacrylic acid; Carboxyvinylpolymer; acrylate copolymers such as Acrylate/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Acrylic acid/vinyl ester copolymer/AcrylatesNinyl Isodecanoate crosspolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate copolymer, Acrylate/Steareth-20 Itaconate copolymer, and Acrylate/Celeth-20 Itaconate copolymer; sulfonate polymers such as Polysulfonic acid, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate supplied from Akzo Nobel under the tradename FLEXAN II, copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid, and copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid; carboxymethycellulose; carboxy
  • non-ionic polymers could be as follows:
  • hydroxyethylcellulose for instance the product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC or NATROSOL 250 HHR CS sold by the company Ashland;
  • celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain examples that may be mentioned include:
  • hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or combinations thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company AkzoNobel; methyl hydroxyethylcellulose; methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, known as the product STRUCTURE CEL 8000 M sold by the company AkzoNobel; or hydroxypropyl cellulose, known as the product KLUCEL MF PHARM HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSE sold by the company Ashland;
  • alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol; or
  • hydroxypropyl guars such as hydroxypropyl guar sold by as the product JAGUAR HP 105 by the company Rhodia and hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen of the present invention may comprise one or more suitable surfactants.
  • Non-limiting examples of surfactants suitable for the present invention are as follows.
  • Anionic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, carboxylates (sodium 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy)acetate), amino acid derivatives (N- acylglutamates, N-acylglycinates or acylsarcosinates), alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and oxyethylenated derivatives thereof, sulfonates, isethionates and N- acylisethionates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglycoside (acyl-D-galactoside uronate), and combinations thereof.
  • carboxylates sodium 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy)acetate
  • amino acid derivatives N- acylglutamates, N-acylglycinates or acyl
  • Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; inulin lauryl carbamate; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside optionally
  • the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and derivatives (e.g. Biophilic), sugar esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty acids chosen from C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and combinations thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactant are the ones that may be positively charged. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and combinations thereof.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one Cs-Cao hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • Preferred surfactants may be selected from isotridecyl phosphate, laureth-23, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, poloxamer 338, potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, stearic acid, PEG-8 laurate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, and combinations thereof.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, additional solvents, active ingredients, additional fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, pigments and combinations thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol, silica and silica silylate.
  • Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, potato starch modified, alumina, silica silylate, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise water as a solvent, present in a concentration from about from about 30.0 % to about 70.0 % by weight, or from about 35.0 % to about 75.0 % by weight, and preferably from about 40.0 % to about 70.0 % by weight, including ranges and subranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
  • Suitable additional active ingredients include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, p-anisic acid, triethanolamine, and combinations thereof.
  • Exemplary of fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, esters, fatty acids, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbons/paraffins, such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid, diisopropyl sebacate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, silicones mineral oil, plant/vegetable oils, and combinations thereof.
  • esters such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid, diisopropyl sebacate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, silicones mineral oil, plant/vegetable oils, and combinations thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone, caprylyl methicone and cyclohexasiloxane.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from about 60.0 % to about 85.0 % by weight, such as from about 60.0 % to about 82.0 % by weight, or such as from about 65.0 to about 80.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • Non-limitative embodiments of the sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention may be as follows.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition may comprise:
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition may comprise: (a) from about 1 .0 % to about 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of emulsified carnauba wax;
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition may comprise:
  • An illustrative and non-limitative process of manufacturing the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may comprise the following steps: a) Heating the oily phase containing fatty compounds, emollients and oily UV filters until 75°C; a1 ) when present in the cosmetic composition, adding and heating the polymers in a); b) Heating the water phase containing until 70°C; b1 ) when present in the composition, adding and heating polymers in step b); c) Adding the step (b) into step (a) homogenizing the mixture; d) Adding the fillers, antioxidants, fragrance, and other possible solvents below 45°C homogenizing the mixture.
  • Suitable compositions according to the state-of-the-art is as Example 5, and suitable compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 6 to 8, as follows: Table 2 - Compositions of the state-of-the-art and of the present invention
  • Suitable compositions according to the state-of-the-art is as Example 9, and suitable compositions according to the present invention are as Examples 10 to 12, as follows: Table 3 - Compositions of the state-of-the-art and of the present invention
  • compositions according to the state-of-the-art of low (Ex. 1 ) and high SPF (Ex. 2) were compared with inventive compositions according to Ex. 3 (low SPF) to 4 (high SPF).
  • the state-of-the-art low SPF composition according to Ex. 1 demonstrated an SPF of 53.8 whereas the inventive low SPF composition of the present invention according to Ex. 3 demonstrated an SPF of 80.3.
  • the state-of-the-art high SPF composition according to Ex. 2 demonstrated an SPF of 63.2 whereas the inventive high SPF composition of the present invention according to Ex. 4 demonstrated an SPF of 81.5.
  • the reference formula (Ex. 5) was used to incorporate carnauba wax in two different concentrations (Ex. 7 and 8) and state-of-the-art boosters’ styrene/acrylates copolymer (Ex. 6).
  • the composition of Ex. 5 demonstrated an in-vivo SPF of 48.3 and the composition of Ex. 6 demonstrated and SPF of 56.9, whereas the inventive composition of Ex. 7 and 8 presented an SPF of 54.9 and 52.6, respectively.
  • carnauba wax was able to boost the SPF in both concentrations used and achieves a performance similar to the styrene/acrylates copolymer. Comparing the cost of each booster, we can conclude that the cost per boosting performance for carnauba wax is lower, resulting in a lower impact on the product cost.
  • carnauba wax was able to boost the SPF in both concentrations used and achieves a performance similar to the styrene/acrylates copolymer. Comparing the cost of each booster, we can conclude that the cost per boosting performance for carnauba wax is lower, resulting in a lower impact on the product cost.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques d'écran solaire comprenant (a) de la cire de carnauba émulsifiée, (b) un ou plusieurs filtres UV organiques, (c) un ou plusieurs tensioactifs, et (d) un ou plusieurs polymères. La présente invention concerne également l'utilisation d'une composition cosmétique d'écran solaire.
PCT/BR2022/050492 2022-12-12 2022-12-12 Composition cosmétique d'écran solaire et son utilisation WO2024124310A1 (fr)

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FR2303063A FR3142903A1 (fr) 2022-12-12 2023-03-30 Composition écran solaire cosmétique et utilisation d’une composition écran solaire cosmétique

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