WO2024078936A1 - Composition cosmétique capillaire détergente et exfoliante comprenant de l'acide salicylique et des particules en suspension - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique capillaire détergente et exfoliante comprenant de l'acide salicylique et des particules en suspension Download PDF

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WO2024078936A1
WO2024078936A1 PCT/EP2023/077441 EP2023077441W WO2024078936A1 WO 2024078936 A1 WO2024078936 A1 WO 2024078936A1 EP 2023077441 W EP2023077441 W EP 2023077441W WO 2024078936 A1 WO2024078936 A1 WO 2024078936A1
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weight
alkyl
composition
chosen
better still
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PCT/EP2023/077441
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Nathalie SAVITCH
Léa CHABAS
Mathieu CHABRILLANGEAS
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/008—Preparations for oily hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/652—The particulate/core comprising organic material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic hair composition with detergent and exfoliating action, which comprises salicylic acid or a salt thereof, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, solid particles and at least one particular anionic acrylic copolymer.
  • the invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said materials.
  • detergent compositions such as shampoos
  • surfactants for washing and/or cleansing keratin materials such as the hair and the scalp.
  • These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair and the scalp.
  • compositions do not always allow soiling to be completely removed and/or a clean visual effect to be obtained.
  • traditional detergent compositions do not always allow organic matter (sebum, dandruff, etc.) formed on the surface of the scalp and/or clinging to the hair to be completely removed.
  • cosmetic compositions which contain higher proportions of natural and biodegradable ingredients, advantageously silicone- free compositions, which have improved working qualities and good cosmetic properties, and which are capable of washing keratin materials without making them feel heavy, so as to provide good conditioning properties to the keratin fibres.
  • composition preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising:
  • X denotes CH 3 and Y denotes a group chosen from -COOR, -CetUR’, -CN or
  • R denoting a Ci-Cs alkyl group or a C 2 -Cs hydroxyalkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group,
  • the composition according to the invention has excellent washing power on keratin materials. It allows soiling to be effectively removed and a clean visual effect to be obtained.
  • the composition according to the invention has an exfoliating effect on the scalp, which is immediately perceptible on application, allowing organic matter, notably sebum and tissue fragments liable to form dandruff, to be effectively removed. It also allows dandruff clinging to keratin fibres to be eliminated.
  • composition according to the invention also has a keratolytic action, which in combination with the exfoliating effect described above allows the scalp to be effectively prevented from becoming greasy again and dandruff from forming.
  • the keratin materials remain clean for longer and the average interval between two shampoo washes may be increased.
  • the hair thus treated is particularly light, has a soft and smooth feel, and is supple, easy to disentangle and manageable.
  • composition according to the invention has good working qualities, notably a good start of lathering, and good foam quality and quantity.
  • composition according to the invention has a viscosity that is suitable for use as a shampoo.
  • composition according to the invention is stable over time, at atmospheric pressure and at 25°C.
  • the solid particles remain in homogeneous and stable suspension, and no phase separation of the particles within the composition has been observed.
  • the visually stable and homogeneous suspension of these particles substantially improves the aesthetic appearance and the originality of the composition according to the invention.
  • stable and homogeneous suspension means that said particles are homogeneously dispersed in the composition, that is to say homogeneously distributed within the composition, and that this homogeneous dispersion persists over time, that is to say that the particles do not float at the surface, do not sink, do not sediment out and/or do not form agglomerates in the composition over time, in particular after at least one month of storage.
  • composition comprising the suspended particles is clear.
  • a subject of the invention is also a treatment process, notably a cosmetic treatment process, for keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair and the scalp, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.
  • a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair and the scalp, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.
  • keratin materials more particularly denotes human keratin materials, and more preferentially the hair and the scalp;
  • fatty acid means an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • fatty alcohol means an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the composition according to the invention is silicone-free.
  • silicone free means that the silicone(s) optionally present in the composition are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still that the composition is free of silicone (0% by weight).
  • silicon means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained, for example, by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O- Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid salts.
  • salicylic acid salt denotes any compound in which salicylic acid is in anionic form, combined with any mineral or organic cation. Use is preferably made of salts derived from a mineral or organic base.
  • mineral bases examples include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or aqueous ammonia.
  • Organic bases that may notably be mentioned include amines and alkanolamines.
  • the composition comprises one or more compounds chosen from salicylic acid and the sodium or potassium salts of salicylic acid. Even more preferentially, the composition contains salicylic acid.
  • the composition contains salicylic acid and/or at least one salicylic acid salt in a total content ranging from 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferably ranging from 1.8% to 6% by weight and better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition contains salicylic acid in a content of at least 1.5% by weight, better still ranging from 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.8% to 6% by weight, and better still from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more solid particles.
  • solid particles means small solid objects which may be of variable shapes and sizes. They may be in regular or irregular form. They may in particular be in spherical form (such as granules, granulates or beads) or in square, rectangular or elongated form such as sticks.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of at least 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of solid particles with a number-average size greater than or equal to 300 pm, preferably in the range from 300 to 1500 pm, preferably from 350 to 1000 pm, better still from 400 to 800 pm.
  • the number- average particle size is expressed relative to the largest numberaverage dimension of said particles.
  • particle sizes may be measured with a laser granulometer (for instance using a Brookhaven BI90 or Malvern device).
  • particle sizes may also be measured using granulometric analysis sieves.
  • the solid particles that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from mineral particles and organic particles.
  • the solid particles are preferably chosen from organic particles and more preferentially from organic particles of plant origin, notably fragments of one or more plants.
  • fragment means a piece or a part of a plant, obtained, for example, by tearing or milling the plant, or by cutting up said plant.
  • fragments of one or more plants means that the composition comprises either several fragments of the same species of plant, or that the composition comprises several fragments of several different species of plants.
  • the composition comprises plant fragments in the form of plant material powder, obtained, for example, by grinding these materials.
  • the plant materials may thus be, for example, plant kernels, pips, shells or seeds.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powder of plant origin, notably at least one plant material powder, more preferentially chosen from kernel powders, for instance apricot kernel powder, plum stone powder and olive stone powder; nut shell powders, for instance argan nut shell powder (INCI name Argania spinosa shell powder), walnut shell powder; seed powders, for instance coffee bean powder, cocoa bean powder; seed powders, for instance kiwi seed powder; and also mixtures of such powders.
  • kernel powders for instance apricot kernel powder, plum stone powder and olive stone powder
  • nut shell powders for instance argan nut shell powder (INCI name Argania spinosa shell powder), walnut shell powder
  • seed powders for instance coffee bean powder, cocoa bean powder
  • seed powders for instance kiwi seed powder
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least two types of powders of different plant materials, for instance a kernel powder and a nut shell powder; better still an apricot kernel powder and an argan nut shell powder.
  • these powders have different particle sizes.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid particles with a number- average size ranging from 300 to 400 pm and one or more solid particles with a number-average size greater than 400 pm, more preferentially ranging from 410 to 800 pm.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more powders of plant materials with a number-average size ranging from 300 to 400 pm and one or more powders of plant materials with a number- average size greater than 400 pm, more preferentially ranging from 410 to 800 pm.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more kernel powders, notably apricot kernel powder, with a number-average size ranging from 300 to 400 pm and one or more nut shell powders, notably argan nut shell powder, with a number- average size greater than 400 pm, more preferentially ranging from 410 to 800 pm.
  • kernel powders notably apricot kernel powder
  • nut shell powders notably argan nut shell powder
  • the composition comprises said solid particles in a total content ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises said powders of plant materials in a total content ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant means a preferably non-silicone surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
  • carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO”) and do not comprise any sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ) and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylate functions, but do not comprise any sulfate functions; and
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
  • the carboxylate anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ).
  • the carboxylate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D- galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, particularly poly oxy ethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • acyl glutamates notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate;
  • acyl sarcosinates notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;
  • acyl lactylates notably C12-C28 or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate;
  • C6-C24 polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • Surfactants of the sarcosinate type may notably be chosen from alkyl(Ce- C3o)sarcosinates of formula (I) below:
  • - X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and
  • R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • (C6-C 3 o)acyl sarcosinates of formula (I) that may be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoyl sarcosinates, stearoyl sarcosinates, myristoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) of sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, stearoylsarcosine, myristoylsarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoylsarcosine, myristoylsarcosine, and mixtures thereof.
  • carboxylic surfactants mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the Akypo names.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II):
  • R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (Cs- C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably, R1 is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-Cis alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
  • - n is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
  • - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are preferred are those of formula (II) in which:
  • Rl denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical
  • - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
  • Rl denotes a C12 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ).
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfo succinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, particularly poly oxy ethylen
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 N-acyltaurates
  • - (Ce-C24)acyl isethionates preferably (Ci2-Cis)acyl isethionates
  • the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 N-acyltaurates, and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, C6-C24 and notably C12-C18 acylisethionates, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from C6-C24 and notably C12-C18 acylisethionates, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ).
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 28, even better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkyl sulfates notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl sulfates
  • alkyl ether sulfates notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-l,3-diol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sulfate anionic surfactants, carboxylate anionic surfactants and mixtures of these two types of surfactants.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylate anionic surfactant, more preferentially chosen from: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, particularly poly oxy ethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene
  • the composition comprises at least one carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, and notably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylic acids.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one sulfate anionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, the salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 28, even better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • sulfate anionic surfactant preferably chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, al
  • anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
  • the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl sulfates.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylate anionic surfactant and at least one sulfate anionic surfactant as described above.
  • the total content of anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 5% to 18% by weight and better still from 10% to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) chosen from C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylic acids, and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether carboxylic acids ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of sulfate anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 18% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of sulfate anionic surfactant(s) chosen from Ce- C30 alkyl sulfates and C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 18% by weight, better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may notably be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil; preferably, R a represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • - Rb represents a P-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylaryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M + and X" are absent;
  • - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’
  • - X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
  • - Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 -Z’;
  • - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - R a ’ represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a ’-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil; preferably, R a ’ is an alkyl group, in particular a C17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
  • - Y represents the group -COOH, -COOZ” or -CH 2 -CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 -Z”;
  • Rd and R e independently of each other, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • - Z represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a ”-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil;
  • - n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use is advantageously made of (Cs-C 2 o)alkylbetaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (Cs- C 2 o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (Cs- C 2 o)alkylamphoacetates, (Cs-C 2 o)alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof.
  • (Cs-C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocoyl betaine
  • Cs- C 2 o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine
  • Cs- C 2 o)alkylamphoacetates Cs-C 2 o)alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (Cs-C 2 o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C3-Cs)alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from cocoyl betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkylbetaines and most particularly cocoyl betaine.
  • the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaine(s) and (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaine(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaine(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 10% by weight and better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 25% by weight and even more preferentially from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more crosslinked anionic copolymers.
  • the copolymer(s) used in the composition according to the invention are derived from one or more monomers A chosen from vinyl carboxylic acids, one or more monomers B containing at least one a,P-ethylenic unsaturation and one or more crosslinking agents.
  • the monomers A are preferably chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and better still methacrylic acid.
  • X denotes CH 3 and Y denotes a group chosen from -COOR, -CetkR’, -CN or
  • R denoting a Ci-Cs alkyl group or a C 2 -Cs hydroxyalkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group,
  • R denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group.
  • the monomer B containing at least one a,P-ethylenic unsaturation is preferably a monomer of formula bl).
  • the monomer B containing at least one a,B-ethylenic unsaturation is preferably a monomer of formula bl) in which X denotes hydrogen and Y denotes -COOR with R denoting a Ci-Cs, better still C1-C4, alkyl group or a C 2 -Cs, better still C 2 -C 4 , hydroxy alkyl group.
  • the monomer B is chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate and more particularly ethyl acrylate.
  • the monomer A is preferably present in amounts ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 25% to 70% by weight and even more particularly from 35% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.
  • the monomer B is preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 25% to 75% by weight and even more particularly from 40% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.
  • This copolymer is partially or totally crosslinked with at least one conventional crosslinking agent.
  • the crosslinking agents are notably polyunsaturated compounds, in particular ethylenically polyunsaturated compounds.
  • These compounds are notably polyalkenyl ethers of sucrose or of polyols, diallyl phthalates, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth)acrylate, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth)acrylate, and castor oil or polyol derivatives manufactured from unsaturated carboxylic acids.
  • the crosslinking agent may also be chosen from unsaturated monomeric compounds including a reactive group that is capable of reacting with an unsaturation to form a crosslinked copolymer.
  • the content of crosslinking agent generally ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight and even more particularly from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.
  • the crosslinked anionic copolymer is chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and of a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, and more preferentially crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate.
  • the crosslinked anionic copolymer may notably be in the form of a dispersion in water.
  • the number- average size of the copolymer particles in the dispersion is generally between 10 and 500 nm, preferably between 20 and 200 nm and more preferentially from 50 to 150 nm.
  • copolymers are notably described in patent application WO 01/76552.
  • a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by the company Noveon or else a crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate sold under the name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm & Haas may be used.
  • the total content of crosslinked anionic copolymer(s) according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of copolymers comprising one or more monomers A chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, one or more monomers of formula bl) as defined above and one or more crosslinking agents ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of copolymers chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate and crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, preferably crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactants may be chosen from:
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups;
  • polyoxyalkylenated preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;
  • N-(Ce-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives - N-(Ce-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives; - amine oxides such as (Cio-Cu alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cio-Ci4 acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides ;
  • the total content of the nonionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more cationic polymers.
  • cationic polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • the cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-0 units).
  • the cationic polymers may be associative or non-associative.
  • the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from non-associative cationic polymers.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5xl0 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3xl0 6 approximately.
  • cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly of:
  • - R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxy alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R4 R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • the copolymers of family ( 1 ) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - polymers preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Ci- C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • methacryloyloxy(Ci- C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chlor
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;
  • cationic polysaccharides notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, for instance Polyquaternium- 10.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are notably described in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt, for instance Polyquaternium-4.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • cationic associative celluloses which may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • groups including at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • groups including at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • Ra, Rb and Rc which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q" represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide;
  • R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN + -, Q’’ in which R’a, R’b and R’c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q’’ represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b and R’c represents a linear or branched Cs to C30 alkyl;
  • x and y which may be identical or different, represent an integer of between 1 and 10 000.
  • At least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched Cs to C30, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12).
  • the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
  • radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched Cs to C30, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12).
  • the other radicals represent a linear or branched Ci to C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
  • R may be a group chosen from -N + (CH3)3, Q’“ and
  • R may be a group -N + (Ci2H2s)(CH3)2, Q’“.
  • aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • Crodacel QS® Stearyldimonium Chloride
  • R represents a trimethylammonium halide
  • R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide
  • preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N + -
  • CP and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H2s)N + -, Cl”.
  • This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
  • the polymers of formula (lb) are, for example, those the viscosity of which is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs.
  • Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.
  • Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1000 and 2000 cPs.
  • guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride).
  • a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example, a chloride.
  • Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17, Jaguar Cl 62 or Jaguar Excel by the company Rhodia.
  • Such compounds have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamide
  • polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • these derivatives mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxy- propyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VI) or (VII): in which formulae (VI) and (VII):
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • Rio and Rn independently of one another, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxy alkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a Ci to C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
  • - Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R13, R14, RIS and Ri6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower (preferably Ci-Ce) hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO- NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxy alkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2) n CO-D-OC- (CH2)n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 -CH2-O) X -CH2-CH 2 - and -[CH 2 CH(CH3)-O] y -CH2-CH(CH 3 )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an
  • X" is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number- average molar mass
  • Ris, R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) P OH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • - X denotes an anion, such as a halide
  • - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol;
  • polyamines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;
  • these polymers may be particularly chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight- average molecular mass of said polymer measured by light scattering, may range preferably from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, more preferentially from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 100 000 to 500000 g/mol.
  • the cationic charge density of these polymers may preferably range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, more preferentially from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
  • the polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are particularly sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular associative or non-associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially from non-associative cationic polysaccharides.
  • the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, and even more preferentially the composition according to the invention contains polyquatemium-10.
  • the total content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, preferably polyquaternium-10 ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one inorganic salt, more preferentially sodium chloride.
  • the inorganic salt(s) are different from the anionic surfactants (i) and from the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii), from the particles, and more particularly from all the ingredients described above.
  • the total content of inorganic salt(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises water, that is to say that the medium of the composition is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • the total content of water in the composition according to the invention is between 20% and 98% by weight, more preferentially between 50% and 96% by weight, even more preferentially between 60% and 95% by weight, better still between 65% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
  • organic solvents are liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • organic solvent use may particularly be made of those which are water-soluble, such as C1-C7 alcohols, and in particular C1-C7 aliphatic or aromatic mono alcohols, C3-C7 polyols and C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can be used alone or as a mixture with water.
  • the organic solvent(s) may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C7 and more preferentially C2-C6 polyol, even more preferentially glycerol.
  • the total content of C2-C7 organic solvent(s) is between 0.5% and 10% by weight, more preferentially between 1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition is between 3.0 and 9.0, more preferentially between 3.5 and 8.0, even more preferentially between 4.0 and 7.0, better still between 4.5 and 6.5.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents (such as monoethanolamine) and/or acidifying agents (such as citric acid).
  • basifying agents such as monoethanolamine
  • acidifying agents such as citric acid
  • composition according to the invention may also optionally contain one or more additives used in cosmetics, such as fragrances, thickeners other than the polymers described previously, and dyes.
  • additives used in cosmetics such as fragrances, thickeners other than the polymers described previously, and dyes.
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of a shampoo.
  • the viscosity of the composition according to the invention may be determined using a viscometer such as a Rheomat RM 100 device from the company Lamy Rheology (measurement at 25°C, 30 seconds, rotation speed 200 rpm, spindle 4).
  • a viscometer such as a Rheomat RM 100 device from the company Lamy Rheology (measurement at 25°C, 30 seconds, rotation speed 200 rpm, spindle 4).
  • the viscosity of the composition ranges from 2000 to 10000 mPa.s, preferentially from 4000 to 9500 mPa.s, better still from 5000 to 9000 mPa.s, better still from 5500 to 8500 mPa.s, even better still from 6000 to 8300 mPa.s.
  • the invention also relates to a process for treating, notably cosmetically, keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair and the scalp, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined previously to said materials.
  • the process according to the invention is a process for washing and/or conditioning human keratin materials, more particularly a process for washing the hair and the scalp, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined previously, followed by a step of rubbing said materials by means of the composition.
  • a step of rinsing the keratin fibres is then performed.
  • a step of drying the keratin fibres may also be envisaged in the process according to the invention, notably using a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating hood, the heating means possibly heating to a temperature ranging from 35°C to 230°C, preferably from 50 to 120°C.
  • a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating hood, the heating means possibly heating to a temperature ranging from 35°C to 230°C, preferably from 50 to 120°C.
  • a subject of the invention is the use of the composition as described previously for treating keratin materials, preferably for washing the hair and the scalp.
  • compositions A and B were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
  • composition A is in accordance with the invention, composition B is comparative.
  • compositions were prepared by homogeneous mixing of the ingredients at room temperature (25°C). The stability of the two compositions was then assessed by placing them for two months in an oven maintained at a temperature of 45 °C and in the dark. After one month of storage, the appearance of composition A was unchanged, and it was in the form of a visually homogeneous suspension of solid particles in a clear fluid.
  • Composition B on the other hand, showed the beginnings of phase separation: there were no more particles on the surface of the composition, an upper layer of particle-free composition had formed and the fluid was cloudy.
  • composition A After two months of storage at 45°C, the appearance of composition A still remained unchanged: it was in the form of a visually homogeneous suspension of solid particles in a clear fluid and no phase separation was visible. In the case of composition B, the phase separation increased, the thickness of the upper layer of particle-free composition increased and the fluid was cloudy.
  • composition A according to the present invention has better stability over time than the comparative composition B.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant (i) de l'acide salicylique et/ou au moins un sel d'acide salicylique, en une teneur d'au moins 1,5 % en poids, (ii) des particules solides de taille moyenne en nombre supérieure ou égale à 300 µm, (iii) au moins un tensioactif anionique, (iv) au moins un tensioactif amphotère ou zwitterionique, et (v) au moins un copolymère anionique réticulé d'au moins un monomère A choisi parmi les acides vinyl carboxyliques et d'au moins un monomère B contenant au moins une insaturation α,β-éthylénique. L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement de matières kératiniques, comprenant au moins une étape d'application d'une telle composition sur lesdites matières.
PCT/EP2023/077441 2022-10-10 2023-10-04 Composition cosmétique capillaire détergente et exfoliante comprenant de l'acide salicylique et des particules en suspension WO2024078936A1 (fr)

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FR2210346A FR3140544A1 (fr) 2022-10-10 2022-10-10 Composition cosmetique capillaire detergente et exfoliante comprenant de l’acide salicylique et des particules en suspension
FRFR2210346 2022-10-10

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