WO2024011551A1 - 一种聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱及其纺织品 - Google Patents

一种聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱及其纺织品 Download PDF

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WO2024011551A1
WO2024011551A1 PCT/CN2022/105847 CN2022105847W WO2024011551A1 WO 2024011551 A1 WO2024011551 A1 WO 2024011551A1 CN 2022105847 W CN2022105847 W CN 2022105847W WO 2024011551 A1 WO2024011551 A1 WO 2024011551A1
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yarn
polyester
processed yarn
fabric
ultra
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PCT/CN2022/105847
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English (en)
French (fr)
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黄儒
王长沙
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东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
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Priority to PCT/CN2022/105847 priority Critical patent/WO2024011551A1/zh
Publication of WO2024011551A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024011551A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/34—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn. Specifically, it relates to a polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn with both cotton-like feel and excellent anti-pilling effect and textiles mainly made from the processed yarn.
  • Natural cotton fiber has always been favored by consumers for its soft feel, good hygroscopicity, excellent dyeability and resistance to pilling.
  • the global consumption of cotton fiber is in short supply every year.
  • fiber researchers have innovatively proposed a method to give polyester filament certain performance characteristics of cotton fiber by improving the differentiation level of synthetic polyester filament, which is the so-called polyester filament.
  • polyester filament imitating cotton has a very broad meaning. It not only includes simply imitating the appearance of short fiber cotton yarn, such as hairiness, but more importantly, imitating the many excellent properties of short fiber cotton yarn itself. Such as soft hand feel, good hygroscopicity, anti-pilling properties, etc.
  • Chinese invention patent CN108118418A discloses a hairy composite deformed yarn containing high-strength deformed yarn and low-strength deformed yarn.
  • the hairiness is formed by cutting the low-strength deformed yarn during processing.
  • the hairiness composite deformed yarn has the same level of hairiness as cotton yarn, thereby achieving a feel close to cotton.
  • the hairiness formed by low-strength yarns is easy to fall off due to friction and produce a large number of hair balls.
  • the anti-pilling performance of the fabric becomes worse, thus affecting the overall visual effect and wearing comfort of the fabric.
  • Chinese invention patent CN111485304A discloses a hairy composite yarn with a melting effect.
  • the yarn also has the same degree of hairiness as cotton yarn. Through the melting treatment of the yarn surface, it has excellent anti-pilling properties. . But at the same time, the fused part of the yarn will cause the fabric to feel harder, thus affecting the softness and wearing comfort of the fabric.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn that has the same level of hairiness as cotton yarn, has a cotton-like feel, and has excellent resistance to pilling.
  • a kind of polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn the processed yarn contains elastic yarn and ultra-fine polyester yarn, the number of hairiness with a length of more than 1mm on the processed yarn is 100 ⁇ 800/10m, the processed yarn The elongation elasticity after stretching and recovering 10 times is 70 to 95%.
  • the CF value of the processed yarn is preferably 350 to 500.
  • the single filament fineness of the ultrafine polyester yarn is preferably 0.30 to 1.0 dtex.
  • the invention also discloses a textile mainly composed of the above-mentioned polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn, and its anti-pilling effect is preferably level 3 or above.
  • elastic polyester yarn and ultra-fine polyester yarn are made into mixed fiber processed yarn with hairiness, so that the processed yarn has both cotton-like feel and excellent anti-pilling effect.
  • the polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn of the present invention mainly contains elastic yarn and ultra-fine polyester yarn.
  • a part of the monofilament of the ultra-fine polyester yarn rubs against the hot plate under the high temperature conditions of the hot box, and is cut off when the processing stack is rubbed. The cut part is exposed on the surface of the processed yarn to form hairiness.
  • too much hairiness will lead to poor pilling resistance of the processed yarn.
  • the phenomenon of pilling on fabrics mainly has the following four stages: In the first stage (pilling), the friction between the fabric and the outside world is greater than the fiber strength and the friction between fibers. When the force or cohesion force occurs, the fiber ends are pulled out to form loops and fluff, and fluff is generated on the surface of the fabric; in the second stage (balling), the process of the fiber being rubbed is a process of repeated elongation and recovery. The fluff exposed on the surface will also move with the fiber and return to its original position.
  • the present invention uses elastic yarn in the mixed fiber processed yarn, so that the elongation elastic modulus of the processed yarn after stretching and recovery for 10 times is maintained at 70 to 95%. At this time, the processed yarn has good tensile recovery and fatigue resistance. Most of the hairiness can return to its original position during friction and is not easy to tangle into balls.
  • the elongation elasticity of the processed yarn is less than 70%, the stretched recovery and fatigue resistance of the processed yarn are poor, and the pulled out hairiness cannot return to its original position.
  • the hairiness gathers and tangles together to form a ball core, which is accompanied by subsequent friction. , forming a large number of hair balls, resulting in poor anti-pilling performance of the fabric.
  • the elongation elasticity of the processed yarn is higher than 95%, the overall elastic recovery of the processed yarn is too large, and the cotton touch caused by hairiness is lost, and the hand feel will be reduced a lot.
  • the present invention can maintain good anti-pilling effect even when the number of hairs on the processed yarn reaches 800/10m.
  • the number of hairiness on the processed yarn should not be too large, otherwise even if the processed yarn is elastic, it will not be able to effectively reduce the occurrence of hair balls.
  • the number of hairs with a length of 1 mm on the processed yarn is preferably 200 to 700/10m, and more preferably 200 to 400/10m.
  • the hairiness in the polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn is mainly formed by ultra-fine polyester yarn. Therefore, if the single filament fineness of the ultra-fine polyester yarn is too large, not only will it be difficult to generate hairiness, but the processed yarn and subsequent The cotton-like feel of the fabric produced will also be reduced; and when the single filament fineness of ultra-fine polyester yarn is too small, spinning will be difficult. Therefore, the single filament fineness of the ultrafine polyester yarn of the present invention is preferably 0.30 to 1.00 dtex.
  • the interlacing of polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn also has an impact on the anti-pilling effect.
  • the CF value (degree of entanglement) of the processed yarn is too small, the cohesion of the monofilaments in the processed yarn is poor, and the monofilaments on the surface of the fabric are easily pulled out during the friction process, resulting in balling and pilling; while when the processed yarn When the CF value is too large, although it will help the anti-pilling effect of the fabric, the overall fluffiness of the yarn will become worse and it will not have a cotton-like effect. Excessive interlacing may also cause the fabric to appear discolored during the dyeing process. spot.
  • the CF value of the polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn of the present invention is preferably 350 to 500, and more preferably 400 to 450.
  • the fiber-forming polymer of the ultra-fine polyester yarn can be all existing polyester compounds, such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), poly Butylene terephthalate (PBT), or low-viscosity polyester compounds, or modified polyester compounds such as cationic dyeable, atmospheric dispersion dyeable, hygroscopic, flame retardant, high color development, etc.
  • PET polyethylene terephthalate
  • PTT polytrimethylene terephthalate
  • PBT poly Butylene terephthalate
  • low-viscosity polyester compounds or modified polyester compounds such as cationic dyeable, atmospheric dispersion dyeable, hygroscopic, flame retardant, high color development, etc.
  • the fiber-forming polymer of the ultra-fine polyester yarn is preferably a low-viscosity polyester compound, and more preferably low-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate. .
  • the elastic yarn can be a parallel elastic yarn, such as PET/PBT parallel elastic yarn, PET/PTT parallel elastic yarn, PET/PET parallel elastic yarn, etc.; it can also be a separate elastic yarn, such as PBT Yarn, PTT yarn, PET yarn, etc.
  • the elasticity of the elastic yarn is not particularly limited in the present invention, as long as the elongation elastic modulus of the overall processed yarn after stretching and recovery for 10 times is in the range of 70 to 95%.
  • the polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn of the present invention can be prepared by the following method: first pre-drafting the ultra-fine polyester POY filament to produce thick details on the ultra-fine polyester filament, and then combining it with the elastic POY After the filaments are compounded, the high-temperature false-twisting process is performed together, and the false-twisting temperature is controlled within the range of 150 to 240°C, as well as the appropriate draft ratio and processing tension, so that part of the thick parts on the ultra-fine polyester filaments are processed during the high-temperature false twisting process. It is cut to form hairiness; a certain amount of air interlacing is applied to the mixed fiber yarn after false twist processing, so that the ultrafine polyester yarn and elastic yarn are combined together, and finally the mixed fiber processed yarn is obtained by rolling.
  • the air interlacing makes the ultra-fine polyester yarn and elastic yarn compound together, and finally the mixed fiber processed yarn is obtained by rolling.
  • the polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn of the present invention can be made into textiles alone or together with other yarns, and the anti-pilling effect of the textiles is level 3 or above.
  • the form of the textile is not particularly limited in the present invention, and may be woven fabric, knitted fabric, braided fabric, etc.
  • test methods involved in the present invention are as follows:
  • test was carried out with reference to the test method A of "8.9 elongation elastic modulus" in JIS L 1013: 2010 "Chemical Fiber Filament Test Method”.
  • Select a test sample either yarn or decomposed filaments in the cloth sample, use a tensile testing machine (RTC-1225A model manufactured by INTECO), and apply an initial load (0.882 (cN/tex) ⁇ fineness (tex))
  • RTC-1225A model manufactured by INTECO tensile testing machine
  • the stretching speed is 100mm/min
  • the length is stretched by 5%.
  • remove the load at the same speed keep it for 2 minutes, and then stretch again at the same speed.
  • the residual elongation is measured. Perform the test 5 times according to the above operation and take the average value.
  • test was carried out with reference to the national industry standard FZ/T 01086 "Textile Yarn Hairiness Determination Method Projection Counting Method".
  • the ultra-fine polyester POY filament with a single filament fineness of 1.00dtex and the single PET POY filament with a single filament fineness of 1.50dtex are mixed at a weight ratio of 50:50, and then are appropriately drawn (80°C) together before entering together.
  • the polyester hairy mixed fiber processed yarn is finally rolled ( 84T-144F+84T-96F), the single filament fineness of the ultra-fine polyester yarn in the processed yarn is 0.58dtex, and the specific properties are shown in Table 2.
  • the elastic yarn in the processed yarn is too elastic, the elongation elasticity of the processed yarn after 10 times of stretching and recovery is too high, the overall recovery of the yarn is too high, the fabric feels hard, and the cotton-like effect is lost. .
  • the fabric made from it loses the cotton-like feel.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱，所述加工纱中含有弹性纱线和极细聚酯纱线，所述加工纱上长度1mm以上的毛羽个数为100～800/10m，所述加工纱在拉伸回复10次后的伸长弹性率为70～95％。该聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱的毛羽与棉纱同等程度，具有仿棉手感，抗起毛起球性能优异。

Description

一种聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱及其纺织品 技术领域
本发明涉及一种聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱，具体的，涉及一种兼具仿棉手感和优异抗起毛起球效果的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱以及主要由该加工纱制得的纺织品。
背景技术
天然棉纤维以其柔软的手感，良好的吸湿性，优异的染色性以及抗起毛起球等性能一直深受广大消费者的青睐。然而，由于天然棉纤维的生长周期长，产量低，另外加上因经济社会发展带来的棉花种植面积的逐年减少，导致全球每年对棉纤维的消费量都呈现出供不应求的状态。为了应对这一困境，纤维研究者们创新性地提出了一种通过提高合成聚酯长丝的差别化水平的方法来赋予聚酯长丝一定棉纤维的性能特点，即所谓的聚酯长丝仿棉技术。通常地，聚酯长丝仿棉这一概念所囊括的含义十分广泛，其不仅包括单纯地模仿短纤棉纱的外观的形态，如多毛羽，更重要地在于模仿短纤棉纱自身许多优异的性能如柔软的手感、良好的吸湿性、抗起毛起球性等。
中国发明专利CN108118418A公开了一种包含高强度变形纱与低强度变形纱的毛羽状复合变形纱线，所述毛羽由低强度变形纱线在加工过程中被切断形成。该毛羽复合变形纱线具有与棉纱同等程度的毛羽数，从而达到接近于棉的手感。但是在面料使用中，由低强度纱线形成的毛羽容易因摩擦脱落而产生大量的毛球，织物的抗起毛起球性能变差，从而影响织物的整体视觉效果和穿着舒适性。
中国发明专利CN111485304A公开了一种具有融着效果的毛羽状复合纱线，该纱线也具有棉纱同等程度的毛羽，通过对纱线表面的融着处理，使其具有优异的抗起毛起球性能。但同时纱线的融着部分会导致织物的手感***，进而影响织物的柔软性和穿着舒适性。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有与棉纱同等程度毛羽，具有仿棉手感，且抗起毛起球性能优异的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱。
为了实现上述目的本发明采用如下技术解决方案：
一种聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱，所述加工纱中含有弹性纱线和极细聚酯纱线，所 述加工纱上长度1mm以上的毛羽个数为100～800/10m，所述加工纱在拉伸回复10次后的伸长弹性率为70～95％。
所述加工纱的CF值优选350～500。
所述极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度优选0.30～1.0dtex。
本发明还公开了一种主要由上述聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱构成的纺织品，其抗起毛起球效果优选在3级以上。
本发明通过将弹性聚酯纱线和极细聚酯纱线制成具有毛羽的混纤加工纱，使得加工纱兼具仿棉的手感和优异的抗起球效果。
具体实施方式
本发明的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱，主要含有弹性纱线和极细聚酯纱线。混纤加工过程中，极细聚酯纱线的一部分单丝在热箱的高温条件下与热板摩擦，再通过加工叠盘摩擦时被切断，被切断的部分露出在加工纱表面形成毛羽，从而赋予加工纱仿棉的效果。一般来说，混纤加工纱毛羽个数越多，越具有仿棉手感，但是过多的毛羽会导致加工纱的抗起毛起球变差。
关于纤维面料起毛起球的原理，阐述如下：面料产生起毛起球的现象主要有以下4个阶段：第1阶段(起毛)，面料与外界之间的摩擦力大于纤维强力、纤维之间的摩擦力或抱合力时，纤维末梢被拉出，形成圈环和绒毛，面料的表面就生成了绒毛；第2阶段(成球)，纤维受到摩擦的过程是一个反复伸长和回复的过程，纤维表面露出的绒毛也会跟随纤维移动再回到原位，但多次拉伸后纤维产生疲劳，再次拉伸后纤维无法回复，从而导致纤维表面的绒毛聚集、缠结，形成球核；第3阶段(毛球的增长)，绒毛形成球核后，随着摩擦的继续，附近的绒毛会被裹挟进来，毛球越来越大，个数也越来越多；第4阶段(毛球脱落)，当面料继续受到摩擦时，连接毛球的纤维会因反复拉伸疲劳而导致断裂，从面料表面脱落。综上所述，纤维面料的抗起毛起球效果的影响因素主要有两点：混纤纱的毛羽数量和混纤纱的伸长回复率(伸长弹性率)。
为了获得仿棉手感，需要使混纤加工纱上有足够多的毛羽数。但是毛羽个数的增多会导致所得纺织品抗起毛起球性能的下降。为了获得良好的抗起毛起球效果，本发明在混纤加工纱中使用了弹性纱线，使得加工纱在拉伸回复10次后的伸长弹性率保持在70～95％。此时，加工纱拥有良好的拉伸回复性和抗疲劳性，摩擦过程中大部分毛羽能回到原位，不易缠结成球。如果加工纱的伸长弹性率低 于70％，加工纱拉伸回复性和抗疲劳性较差，拉出的毛羽不能回到原位，毛羽聚集缠结在一起而产生球核，伴随后续摩擦，形成大量毛球，从而导致面料的抗起毛起球性能变差。而当加工纱的伸长弹性率高于95％时，加工纱整体弹性回复太大，失去了毛羽带来的棉的触感，手感会下降很多。
本发明通过控制加工纱的弹性伸长率在70～95％的范围之内，使得加工纱上的毛羽个数即使达到800个/10m时也能保持良好的抗起毛起球效果。但是加工纱上的毛羽个数仍不能太多，否则即使加工纱具有弹性也无法有效减少毛球的产生。为了获得兼具手感和抗起毛起球效果的混纤加工纱，所述加工纱上长度为1mm的毛羽个数优选200～700个/10m，更优选200～400个/10m。
所述聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱中的毛羽主要由极细聚酯纱线是形成，因此如果所述极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度太大的话，不仅毛羽生成困难，加工纱以及后续制得的织物的仿棉手感也会下降；而当极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度太小的话，纺丝困难。因此，本发明所述极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度优选0.30～1.00dtex。
另外，聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱的交络对抗起毛起球效果也有影响。当加工纱的CF值(交络度)太小时，加工纱中单丝的抱合性较差，织物表面的纱线在摩擦过程中单丝容易被抽出，成团起球；而当加工纱的CF值太大时，虽然有助于织物的抗起毛起球效果，但是纱线整体的蓬松性变差，不具有仿棉效果，且过大的交络也可能导致织物在染色过程中出现色斑。本发明聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱的CF值优选350～500，更优选400～450。
所述极细聚酯纱线的成纤聚合物可以是现有的所有聚酯类化合物，比如聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(PBT)，或者低粘度聚酯类化合物，或者改性聚酯类化合物如阳离子可染、常压分散可染、吸湿、阻燃、高发色等。从形成毛羽难易程度以及抗起毛起球性能等方面考虑，所述极细聚酯纱线的成纤聚合物优选低粘度聚酯类化合物，更优选低粘度聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯。
所述弹性纱线可以是并列弹性纱线，比如PET/PBT并列弹性纱线、PET/PTT并列弹性纱线、PET/PET并列弹性纱线等；也可以是具有弹性的单独纱线，如PBT纱线、PTT纱线、PET纱线等。本发明对所述弹性纱线的弹性不做特别限定，只要满足能使整体加工纱在拉伸回复10次后的伸长弹性率在70～95％的范围内即 可。
本发明的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱，可以通过下述方法制备得到：首先将极细聚酯POY长丝先进行预牵伸，使极细聚酯长丝上产生粗细节，然后与弹性POY长丝复合后一起进行高温假捻加工，控制假捻温度150～240℃范围内以及合适的牵伸倍率和加工张力，使得极细聚酯长丝上的一部分粗节部分在高温假捻过程中被切断形成毛羽；对假捻加工加工后的混纤纱线施加一定的空气交络，使极细聚酯纱线和弹性纱线复合在一起，最后经卷取得到混纤加工纱。
也可以将极细聚酯POY长丝与弹性POY长丝一起先进行预牵伸，使极细聚酯长丝上产生粗细节，然后再一起进行高温假捻加工，控制假捻温度150～240℃范围内以及合适的牵伸倍率和加工张力，使得极细聚酯长丝上的一部分粗节部分在高温假捻过程中被切断形成毛羽；对假捻加工加工后的混纤纱线施加一定的空气交络，使极细聚酯纱线和弹性纱线复合在一起，最后经卷取得到混纤加工纱。
本发明的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱可以单独或者和其他纱线共同制成纺织品，所述纺织品的抗起毛起球效果在3级以上。本发明对所述纺织品的形态不做特别限定，可以是机织物、针织物、编织物等。
本发明涉及的测试方法如下：
(1)拉伸回复10次后加工纱的伸长弹性率
参照JIS L 1013：2010“化学纤维长丝试验法”中的“8.9伸长弹性率”的测试方法A法进行测试。选取1根测试样本，纱线或者布样中的分解丝都可，使用拉伸测试机(INTECO社制造、RTC-1225A型)，施加初荷重(0.882(cN/tex)×纤度(tex))的状态下，夹持距离为20cm，拉伸速度为100mm/min条件下拉伸5％长度。之后，同速度下去除荷重，保持2分钟后，再次以相同速度拉伸，如此往复10次后，测量残留伸长度。按以上操作测试5回，取平均值。
伸长弹性率E＝(L-L 1)/L×100，
其中，E:伸长弹性率(％)，
L:5％伸长时的伸长度(mm)，
L 1:残留伸长度(mm)。
(2)毛羽数
参照国家行业标准FZ/T 01086《纺织品纱线毛羽测定方法投影计数法》 进行测试。
(3)CF值(交络度)
参照JIS L 1013(2010)所述方法，使用自动交联度测试仪(Rothschild公司生产的ENTANGLEMENT TESTER-2040)，测试纤维的CF值。
(4)抗起毛起球效果
本发明中的织物抗起毛起球效果参照标准JIS L 1076:2012 A法进行测试。
(5)仿棉效果评价
a.织物制作
本发明的聚酯纤维混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。
b.官能评价
随机选择10人，进行官能评价(优异棉感，棉感，无棉感)。7人以上得出优异棉感为：〇，5人以上得出优异棉感为：△，4人以下得出优异棉感为：×。
下面结合实施例，对本发明进行详细说明，但实施例并非是对本发明的限制。
实施例1
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例2
将单丝纤度0.53dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度2.10dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝30T-96F+30T-24F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.31dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例3
将单丝纤度0.44dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度1.76dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝25T-96F+25T-24F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.26dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例4
将单丝纤度1.70dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.40dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹 性纱线＝96T-96F+96T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为1.00dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤纱用作经纬加工纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例5
将单丝纤度2.15dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度4.30dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝120T-96F+120T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为1.25dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例6
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.31倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)， 制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例7
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为2.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例8
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为2.5％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例9
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制 适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.5％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例10
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为4.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表1。
实施例11
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PTT弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex具体性能见表1。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密 度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表2。
实施例12
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex具体性能见表2。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表2。
实施例13
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度6.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.20MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-24F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表2。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表2。
比较例1
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度1.50dtex的单独PET  POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.20MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(84T-144F+84T-96F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表2。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表2。
由于加工纱中没有弹性纱线，导致加工纱在拉伸回复10次后的伸长弹性率偏低，加工纱上的毛羽在摩擦的过程中抗疲劳效果差，易缠结成团起球，因此其抗起毛起球性能不良。
比较例2
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度12.00dtex的PBT/PET的并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.24倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.20MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-12F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表2。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表2。
由于加工纱中的弹性纱线的弹性太大，导致加工纱在拉伸回复10次后的伸长弹性率过高，纱线整体回复性过大，织物手感偏硬，失去了仿棉的效果。
比较例3
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一 起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.18倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表2。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表2。
由于混纤加工纱上长度1mm以上的毛羽个数偏少，导致由其制得的织物失去了仿棉手感。
比较例4
将单丝纤度1.00dtex的极细聚酯POY长丝与单丝纤度3.00dtex的PBT/PET并列弹性POY长丝以50：50的重量比混纤后一起进行适当外牵伸(80℃)后再一起进入220℃热箱内牵伸假捻，外牵伸倍率1.38倍、内牵伸倍率1.34倍。控制适当的解捻张力与加捻张力之比，在保证交络处的超喂率为3.0％的条件下，经0.2MPa空气交络复合后，最终卷取得到聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱(极细聚酯纱线+弹性纱线＝84T-144F+84T-48F)，加工纱中极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.58dtex，具体性能见表2。
将上述制得的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱用作经纬纱制成平纹坯布,其中经纬纱密度为102根/inc╳68根/inc。然后将坯布经精练(95℃，V 布＝40m/min)→中间定型(170℃，V 布＝50m/min)→染色(130℃╳60min)→后定型(140℃，V 布＝50m/min)，制成织物。最终测试织物的抗起毛起球性能和仿棉手感，具体性能见表2。
由于混纤加工纱上长度1mm以上的毛羽个数偏多，即使加工纱线拉伸回复10次后的伸长弹性率达到81.9％，但在摩擦过程中，过多的毛羽掉落、缠结成球，导致织物抗起毛起球效果不良。
Figure PCTCN2022105847-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2022105847-appb-000002

Claims (5)

  1. 一种聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱，其特征在于，所述加工纱中含有弹性纱线和极细聚酯纱线，所述加工纱上长度1mm以上的毛羽个数为100～800/10m，所述加工纱在拉伸回复10次后的伸长弹性率为70～95％。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱，其特征在于，所述加工纱的CF值为350～500。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱，其特征在于，所述极细聚酯纱线的单丝纤度为0.30～1.0dtex。
  4. 一种纺织品，主要由权利要求1所述聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱构成。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的纺织品，其特征在于，所述纺织品的抗起毛起球效果在3级以上。
PCT/CN2022/105847 2022-07-15 2022-07-15 一种聚酯毛羽混纤加工纱及其纺织品 WO2024011551A1 (zh)

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0874137A (ja) * 1994-08-30 1996-03-19 Toray Ind Inc スパンライク毛羽糸およびその製造方法
JPH08337937A (ja) * 1995-06-07 1996-12-24 Toray Ind Inc スパン糸のような毛羽を有するフィラメント加工糸およびその製造方法
JPH10110343A (ja) * 1996-08-09 1998-04-28 Toray Ind Inc ポリエステルミシン糸およびそれを用いた縫製品
KR20090046642A (ko) * 2007-11-06 2009-05-11 안진형 코튼 라이크 스트레치 원사
CN103382601A (zh) * 2012-05-04 2013-11-06 上海茂腾针织有限公司 复合纱线和由该纱线针织而成的布及其制造方法

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0874137A (ja) * 1994-08-30 1996-03-19 Toray Ind Inc スパンライク毛羽糸およびその製造方法
JPH08337937A (ja) * 1995-06-07 1996-12-24 Toray Ind Inc スパン糸のような毛羽を有するフィラメント加工糸およびその製造方法
JPH10110343A (ja) * 1996-08-09 1998-04-28 Toray Ind Inc ポリエステルミシン糸およびそれを用いた縫製品
KR20090046642A (ko) * 2007-11-06 2009-05-11 안진형 코튼 라이크 스트레치 원사
CN103382601A (zh) * 2012-05-04 2013-11-06 上海茂腾针织有限公司 复合纱线和由该纱线针织而成的布及其制造方法

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