WO2023275282A1 - Composition of single-phase appearance comprising a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant - Google Patents
Composition of single-phase appearance comprising a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023275282A1 WO2023275282A1 PCT/EP2022/068125 EP2022068125W WO2023275282A1 WO 2023275282 A1 WO2023275282 A1 WO 2023275282A1 EP 2022068125 W EP2022068125 W EP 2022068125W WO 2023275282 A1 WO2023275282 A1 WO 2023275282A1
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 333
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 43
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 239000003380 propellant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 239000000443 aerosol Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- -1 fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 160
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 89
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 85
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 74
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 66
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 35
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 30
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 30
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 30
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical group C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 27
- ATUOYWHBWRKTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propane Chemical compound CCC ATUOYWHBWRKTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 26
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 26
- NNPPMTNAJDCUHE-UHFFFAOYSA-N isobutane Chemical compound CC(C)C NNPPMTNAJDCUHE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 26
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 24
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 24
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 23
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 20
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 claims description 19
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 19
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 18
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 15
- 229930182470 glycoside Natural products 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 claims description 15
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- LCGLNKUTAGEVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethyl ether Chemical compound COC LCGLNKUTAGEVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000001282 iso-butane Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- IJDNQMDRQITEOD-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-butane Chemical compound CCCC IJDNQMDRQITEOD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
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- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
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- KWVPFECTOKLOBL-KTKRTIGZSA-N 2-[(z)-octadec-9-enoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOCCO KWVPFECTOKLOBL-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-CMTNHCDUSA-N Decyl beta-D-threo-hexopyranoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)C(O)[C@H](O)C1O JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-CMTNHCDUSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000005037 alkyl phenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940073499 decyl glucoside Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
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- 150000008131 glucosides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000008282 halocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N lauryl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940048848 lauryl glucoside Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004879 turbidimetry Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 73
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 46
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- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 38
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- 229920013822 aminosilicone Polymers 0.000 description 32
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 31
- 235000011389 fruit/vegetable juice Nutrition 0.000 description 29
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 27
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 21
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 21
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 20
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 description 20
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical compound C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 19
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 18
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 18
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 16
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 16
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 15
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 15
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 14
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 14
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 12
- OFBQJSOFQDEBGM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pentane Chemical compound CCCCC OFBQJSOFQDEBGM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 description 12
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 12
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 11
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 11
- PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Styrene Chemical compound C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Vinyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC=C XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 10
- 229910052784 alkaline earth metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 10
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 10
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 10
- FQPSGWSUVKBHSU-UHFFFAOYSA-N methacrylamide Chemical compound CC(=C)C(N)=O FQPSGWSUVKBHSU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 10
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 10
- HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylamide Chemical group NC(=O)C=C HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 description 9
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 9
- CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methacrylic acid Chemical compound CC(=C)C(O)=O CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
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- 239000001273 butane Substances 0.000 description 8
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycerol group Chemical group OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
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- 150000008064 anhydrides Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 125000001797 benzyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 7
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- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
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- 229940116422 propylene glycol dicaprate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001944 prunus armeniaca kernel oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005956 quaternization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010526 radical polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- NXLOLUFNDSBYTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N retene Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C3=CC=C(C(C)C)C=C3C=CC2=C1C NXLOLUFNDSBYTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000008165 rice bran oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019719 rose oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000010666 rose oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940071089 sarcosinate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000005619 secondary aliphatic amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011803 sesame oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008159 sesame oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon monoxide Inorganic materials [Si-]#[O+] LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000005373 siloxane group Chemical group [SiH2](O*)* 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057950 sodium laureth sulfate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940006186 sodium polystyrene sulfonate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- GDIUOQQOLKSNCD-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(2-docosanoyloxypropanoyloxy)propanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C(=O)OC(C)C([O-])=O GDIUOQQOLKSNCD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- ZUFONQSOSYEWCN-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(methylamino)acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CNCC([O-])=O ZUFONQSOSYEWCN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOS([O-])(=O)=O SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- AUHKUMFBHOJIMU-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[hexadecanoyl(methyl)amino]acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CC([O-])=O AUHKUMFBHOJIMU-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000011071 sorbitan monopalmitate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001570 sorbitan monopalmitate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940031953 sorbitan monopalmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019337 sorbitan trioleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960000391 sorbitan trioleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000011078 sorbitan tristearate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001589 sorbitan tristearate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004129 sorbitan tristearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000003696 stearoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940117986 sulfobetaine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003457 sulfones Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003460 sulfonic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- RWSOTUBLDIXVET-UHFFFAOYSA-O sulfonium Chemical compound [SH3+] RWSOTUBLDIXVET-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- 150000003462 sulfoxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- ISXSCDLOGDJUNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tert-butyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)OC(=O)C=C ISXSCDLOGDJUNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003510 tertiary aliphatic amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003568 thioethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000005208 trialkylammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- CYRMSUTZVYGINF-UHFFFAOYSA-N trichlorofluoromethane Chemical compound FC(Cl)(Cl)Cl CYRMSUTZVYGINF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940029284 trichlorofluoromethane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- BGNWQYFHLCCUTB-MSUUIHNZSA-N tridecyl (z)-docos-13-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC BGNWQYFHLCCUTB-MSUUIHNZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000005691 triesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940118576 triisostearyl citrate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- RRHXZLALVWBDKH-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl-[2-(2-methylprop-2-enoyloxy)ethyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CC(=C)C(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C RRHXZLALVWBDKH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- VZTGWJFIMGVKSN-UHFFFAOYSA-O trimethyl-[3-(2-methylprop-2-enoylamino)propyl]azanium Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)C VZTGWJFIMGVKSN-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl-bis(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](O[Si](C)(C)C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940026256 trioctyldodecyl citrate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- FQAZRHVERGEKOS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tripropan-2-yl 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)OC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OC(C)C)CC(=O)OC(C)C FQAZRHVERGEKOS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical class OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ICWQKCGSIHTZNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ICWQKCGSIHTZNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BIEMOBPNIWQLMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(2-octyldodecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCC(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC)CC(=O)OCC(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC BIEMOBPNIWQLMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NELZVYZKKXHHAB-IUPFWZBJSA-N tris[(z)-octadec-9-enyl] 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC NELZVYZKKXHHAB-IUPFWZBJSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GPRLSGONYQIRFK-MNYXATJNSA-N triton Chemical compound [3H+] GPRLSGONYQIRFK-MNYXATJNSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N urethane group Chemical group NC(=O)OCC JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002966 varnish Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/068—Microemulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
- A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
Definitions
- DESCRIPTION TITLE Composition of single-phase appearance comprising a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant
- the present invention relates to a composition of single-phase appearance comprising a combination of a nonionic surfactant and of an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one fatty substance, in the presence of a propellant.
- the invention also concerns an aerosol device containing said composition, and also to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the skin and the hair, using said composition. It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin materials notably such as the hair and the skin.
- compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washing mitt makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin.
- Shampoos and body cleansing products are usually in the form of lotions, gels, foams, creams or sprays. When these products are packaged in the form of sprays or in aerosol devices, they are generally only available in opaque containers since the compositions usually used do not have a sufficiently attractive appearance, notably in the presence of a propellant, or even in the presence of a liquefied propellant.
- compositions that are more attractive, more fluid and clearer, or even transparent.
- these compositions are generally not stable over time or with respect to temperature, which makes their application difficult and non-uniform and gives the consumer an unpleasant sensation.
- a composition which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which has an attractive aesthetic appearance that is stable over time, which is easy to spread over the entire head of hair or the skin, and which has improved foaming and cleansing (or washing) properties, notably giving keratin materials a soft, pleasant feel.
- composition of single-phase appearance comprising a combination of at least one nonionic surfactant and of at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant in the presence of at least one propellant, makes it possible to achieve the objectives presented above, and notably to propose a composition which is stable over time, combining an attractive aesthetic appearance with improved foaming properties.
- One subject of the present invention is thus a composition of single-phase appearance comprising: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants, (ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iii) one or more propellants, and (iv) water, (v) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure ; the weight ratio between the total content of surfactants and the total content of fatty substances (v) is greater than or equal to 1.
- the composition according to the invention when it is dispensed by means of a conventional aerosol device, makes it possible in particular to dispense a uniform, firm and creamy mousse which holds well in the hand.
- the foam formed from the composition according to the invention has good working qualities. It spreads easily and evenly over the keratin materials and has good conditioning and cleaning properties for the hair or the skin, and also good styling properties on the hair, where appropriate. After rinsing or not, the composition affords cosmetic properties to the keratin materials, and notably a pleasant feel.
- the composition of the invention can be used in various cosmetic treatments of the skin and/or hair, such as cleansing compositions, conditioners or styling products. As a styling product, it notably affords good hold of the head of hair over time under both wet and dry conditions, while at the same time giving the head of hair volume, without making the hairstyle rigid.
- the composition according to the invention also affords good curl definition, and also good curl hold.
- the composition according to the invention gives the hair flexibility and volume, affording it a fluid movement, while at the same time maintaining a natural appearance. It also gives the hair a particularly soft, smooth and pleasant feel.
- the head of hair styled using the composition of the invention is held in shape without being set rigid and the styling effects afforded thereto persist throughout the day.
- the composition according to the invention has a single-phase appearance, which is preferably clear, or even transparent, which gives it a particularly attractive aesthetic appearance that is highly sought by users.
- the propellant(s) when it is packaged in a pressurized device, such as an aerosol, the propellant(s) are dispersed in the composition, giving the composition a particularly aesthetic homogeneous appearance.
- the aesthetic appearance of the composition according to the invention is also particularly enhanced when it is packaged in a container that is itself transparent.
- the permanent dispersion of the propellant(s) renders them non- flammable, improving the safety of the final aerosol product and complying with certain regulations, notably American regulations.
- certain regulations notably American regulations.
- the composition according to the invention is stable over time, and also with respect to temperature. In particular, the appearance of the composition according to the invention remains significantly the same after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C).
- the present invention also relates to an aerosol device comprising: - a container containing a composition as defined previously, and - a means for spraying said composition.
- the present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably a washing and/or conditioning process, of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair and the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as previously defined, said application being optionally followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time.
- the present invention also relates to a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined previously, said application being optionally followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time.
- the present invention also relates to a process for styling keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined previously, said application being optionally followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time.
- two-phase or multi-phase appearance refers to a composition comprising at least two phases that are distinct from each other and superposed one on the other.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is of single- phase appearance.
- the term “of single-phase appearance” means that the composition according to the invention is constituted, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure: - of a single phase; or - of two or more phases, in which one of the phases is dispersed in the other, such that the phases cannot be distinguished from each other with the naked eye.
- the composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a clear to transparent fluid, preferably a transparent fluid.
- the transparency of the composition according to the invention may be characterized by measuring its turbidity, by turbidimetry (in NTU units). In the context of the present invention, the turbidity measurements were performed using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent.
- the turbidity of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 250 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 200 NTU units, more preferentially less than or equal to 100 NTU units, better still less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and even more preferentially less than or equal to 20 NTU units.
- the transparency may also be assessed visually when the composition is packaged in a transparent container. According to this method, the composition is transparent if the printed characters on a sheet of paper placed behind the container can be read clearly.
- the printed characters are preferably in Arial font, font size 12 or larger.
- the composition according to the invention is free of cationic surfactants.
- the term “free of cationic surfactants” means that the composition does not comprise any cationic surfactants, or that the total content of cationic surfactants is less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the nonionic surfactants comprises one or more nonionic surfactants. Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.
- They are notably chosen from alcohols, ⁇ -diols, (C 1 -C 20 )alkylphenols or fatty acids, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and bearing at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5
- the nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the present invention may be chosen more particularly from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30.
- polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols
- the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100
- the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30.
- the polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols are chosen from the nonionic surfactants of formula (I): R-O-(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) n -H (I) in which: R is a linear or branched C 8 to C 40 alkenyl radical; and n is an integer ranging from 6 to 20.
- R represents a linear or branched C 12 to C 30 , more preferentially C 16 to C 20 , alkenyl radical.
- n represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12.
- R represents a linear or branched C 16 to C 20 alkenyl radical; and/or n represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12.
- the nonionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from oleyl alcohol containing 8 mol of ethylene oxide, oleyl alcohol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide and oleyl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof; and more preferentially, the nonionic surfactant of formula (I) is oleyl alcohol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Oleth-10).
- Other polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols such as oleth-3, oleth-5, laureth-4, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20, oleth-30 and mixtures thereof may also be used.
- the nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units. Mention may be made in particular of the polyoxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 (preferably C 12 -C 18 ) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, which may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C 12 -C 18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-21), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-20), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan
- the nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the present invention may be chosen more particularly from nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants and mixtures thereof.
- alkyl(poly)glycoside denotes an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside, also referred to in the present patent application as an alkylglycoside, which may be alkoxylated with one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferentially of C 2 -C 4 .
- the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) used, alone or as mixtures, in accordance with the present invention may be represented by formula (II) below: R 1 O-(R 2 O) t (G) v (II) in which formula (II): - R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group including from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl group includes from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - R 2 represents an alkylene group including from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a saccharide unit including 5 or 6 carbon atoms, - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, and - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
- the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) correspond to formula (II) in which: - R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose, - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and - R 2 and v are as defined previously.
- the degree of polymerization of the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) as represented, for example, by the index v in formula (II) above, ranges on average from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
- the degree of polymerization more particularly ranges from 1 to 2 and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.
- the glycoside bonds between the saccharide units are 1,6- or 1,4- bonds; preferably 1,4- bonds.
- the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactants that may be used in the present invention are preferably alkyl(poly)glycosides notably represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren ® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare ® (818, 1200 and 2000).
- Use may also be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix ® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK, or the products sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade names Tego Care CG 90 or Tego Care CG 90 MB.
- the nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from silicone nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
- silicone compound means a compound which comprises at least one (-Si-O-) group.
- the silicone surfactants that may be used may be water-soluble, spontaneously water-dispersible or water-insoluble. Preferably, they are water-soluble or spontaneously water-dispersible. Preferably, the silicone surfactants are oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated.
- the silicone surfactants may be chosen from the compounds of formulae (III), (IV), (V), (VI) and (VII) below: in which: - R1, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C1- C30 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; - R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical; - R 2 , which may be identical or different, represents a group –(CH 2 )c-O- (C 2 H 4 O)a’-(C 3 H 6 O)b’-R 5 or –(CH 2 )c-O-(C 4 H 8 O)a’-R 5 in which a’ ranges from 0 to 50; b’ ranges from 0 to 50 and a’+b’ is greater than or equal to 1; c ranges from 0 to 4; and - R 5 , which may be identical or different, is chosen from
- the silicone surfactants may be chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) in which, R 1 denotes a methyl group, and R 2 is a group - (CH 2 ) c -O-(C 2 H 4 O) a’ -(C 3 H 6 O) b’ -R 5 with c equal to 2 or 3; a’ ranges from 2 to 25, b’ ranges from 0 to 25, R 5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; such as compounds of formula (IV) in which, R 1 denotes a methyl group, and R 2 is a group - (CH 2 ) c -O-(C 2 H 4 O) a’ -(C 3 H 6 O) b’ -R 5 with c equal to 2 or 3; a’ ranges from 2 to 25, b’ ranges from 0 to 25, R 5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; such as compounds of formula (IV) in which, R 1 denotes a methyl
- R is a cetyl group
- the silicone nonionic surfactants may be chosen from PEG-dimethicone, for instance PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, and/or alkyl PEG/PPG dimethicone, for instance PEG/PPG-10/1 cetyl dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 dimethicone.
- PEG-dimethicone for instance PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, and/or alkyl PEG/PPG dimethicone, for instance PEG/PPG-10/1 cetyl dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 dimethicone.
- silicone surfactants sold under the trade names Fluid DC193 and DC 5225C by the Dow Corning company, Silwet ® L 77 by the company OSI, and Mazil ® 756 by the company Mazer PPG, KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu and Abil EM 90 from Evonik.
- the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of formula (I) as defined above, alkyl (poly)glycosides of formula (II) as defined above, oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, silicone surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and better still from oleth-10, polysorbate 80, decyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
- the total content of the nonionic surfactant(s) present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight and better still from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amphoteric surfactants The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may notably be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
- R a represents a C 10 to C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil; preferably, R a represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - R b represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group; - R c represents a carboxymethyl group; - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion
- cocoamphodiacetate disodium lauroamphodiacetate
- disodium caprylamphodiacetate disodium capryloamphodiacetate
- disodium cocoamphodipropionate disodium lauroamphodipropionate
- disodium caprylamphodipropionate disodium capryloamphodipropionate
- lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
- cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
- (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines such as cocoyl betaine (C 8 - C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (C 8 - C 20 )alkylamphoacetates, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.
- (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines such as cocoyl betaine (C 8 - C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (C 8 - C 20 )alkylamphoacetates, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamphodia
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C 8 - C 20 )alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, and better still from (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.
- the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.75% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 - C 8 )alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, and the total content of the (C 8 - C 20 )alkylbetaine(s) and/or of the (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaine(s) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.75% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% by weight and even more preferentially from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the weight ratio (R) between the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii), present in the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 1 and more preferentially greater than or equal to 1.5.
- this weight ratio (R) ranges from 2 to 15.
- the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) i.e.
- the sum of the total contents of nonionic surfactants (i), and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii)), present in the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- this total content ranges from 5% to 40% by weight and more preferentially from 6% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the propellants The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more propellants.
- the propellant(s) that may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from liquefied gases such as dimethyl ether, chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, 1-chloro- 1,1-difluoroethane or 1,1-difluoroethane, or volatile hydrocarbons notably such as C 3 to C 5 alkanes, for instance propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane or pentane; and mixtures thereof.
- liquefied gases such as dimethyl ether, chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons
- trichlorofluoromethane dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetraflu
- the propellant(s) are chosen from volatile, optionally halogenated hydrocarbons, for example n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane and halogenated derivatives thereof; dimethyl ether; and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from dimethyl ether, C 3 to C 5 alkanes, in particular propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof, and better still from C 3 to C 5 alkanes, in particular propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof.
- the propellant (s) used are fully dissolved or dispersed in the composition before the first use of the composition.
- the term “fully dispersed in the composition” means that the propellant(s) are fully present in the composition; or that the total content of the non-dispersed propellant(s) (i.e. the propellants not present in the composition according to the invention) is less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total content of the propellant(s) present in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 10% by weight, and preferably less than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferentially, the total content of the propellant(s) ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight and even more preferentially from 3% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention also comprises water.
- the total content of water present in the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, and more preferentially ranges from 50% to 93% by weight and better still from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition may optionally comprise a mixture of water and of one or more organic solvents chosen from C 1 to C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.
- the total content of the organic solvent(s) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, and better still from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the fatty substances comprises one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
- the fatty substance(s) used in the composition of the invention have a melting point strictly less than 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa), and more preferentially less than or equal to 28°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
- the fatty substance(s) used in the composition of the present invention are liquid at 35°C and at atmospheric pressure, preferably liquid at 28°C and at atmospheric pressure.
- the fatty substance(s) used in the composition according to the invention are liquid at room temperature, i.e. they have a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
- the term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa), i.e. it has a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight in water.
- the fatty substances generally have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms.
- the fatty substances are generally soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
- the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure included in the composition according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
- non-silicone fatty substance means a fatty substance whose structure does not include any silicon atoms, thus notably not comprising any siloxane groups.
- silicon fatty substance means a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom, and more particularly at least one Si-O bond.
- the fatty substances that may be used generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms. They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated, and preferably do not contain any - COOH functions.
- the fatty substance(s) are preferably neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated, and preferably do not contain any -COOH functions.
- the fatty substance(s) (v) are namely different from nonionic surfactant(s).
- the fatty substance(s) are non-silicone fatty substances and are neither poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated, and more preferably do not contain any -COOH functions.
- the fatty substance(s) are non-silicone fatty substances and are different from nonionic surfactant(s).
- the fatty substance(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may notably be chosen from hydrocarbons, triglycerides, fatty esters, fatty acids, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, silicones and mixtures thereof; these compounds being liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, and preferentially liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure.
- fatty ester saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters, alcohols and acids comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
- hydrocarbon means a compound solely comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms. More particularly, the hydrocarbons that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa), preferably liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure, are chosen from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6 to C 16 alkanes.
- Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam ® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.
- isoparaffins for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam ® by the company NOF Corporation,
- the hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid paraffins, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum jelly, undecane, tridecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
- the hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins, isododecane and a mixture of undecane and tridecane.
- fatty ester means an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol.
- the esters that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 to C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, which are optionally hydroxylated, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 to C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
- the esters of monoalcohols at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
- alkyl palmitates notably C 1 to C 18 alkyl palmitates, notably ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate
- alkyl myristates notably C 1 to C 18 alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
- alkyl stearates notably C 1 to C 18 alkyl stearates, notably isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
- esters of optionally hydroxylated C 3 to C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 to C 22 alcohols and esters of optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy C 4 to C 26 non-sugar alcohols.
- esters mentioned above use is preferentially made of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2- hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, cetyl octanoate and bis(C 12 -C 13 )alkyl malate.
- alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myr
- liquid fatty esters use may be made of esters and diesters of sugars and of C 6 -C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acids. Isopropyl myristate is particularly preferred.
- sugar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
- these said sugars are chosen from sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
- the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 to C 30 and preferably C 12 to C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
- esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
- These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, notably such as oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.
- Glucate ® DO methylglucose dioleate
- Use may be made, among sugar esters, of pentaerythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate or caprylic and capric acid hexaesters as a mixture with dipentaerythritol.
- triglycerides of plant origin such as plant oils or synthetic triglycerides. More particularly, said plant oil(s) or synthetic oil(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara pea oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cotton seed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, blueberry seed oil, poppy seed oil, orange pip oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, coconut kernel oil, vernonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, x
- Triacetin glycerol triester of acetic acid
- triglycerides of plant origin in particular caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, coconut oil and triacetin
- fatty acid means a non-salified fatty acid, i.e. the fatty acid must not be in the form of a generally soluble soap, i.e. it must not be salified with a base.
- R is a C 7 to C 29 alkyl or C 7 to C 29 alkenyl group, better still a C 12 to C 24 alkyl or C 12 to C 24 alkenyl group.
- R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.
- the fatty acid(s) that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, more preferentially liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure, are chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.
- the non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition according to the invention include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated.
- the saturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, which is preferably acyclic.
- the saturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, 2- decyltetradecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. Octyldodecanol and 2-decyltetradecanol are most particularly preferred.
- the unsaturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols have, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.
- These unsaturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non- aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic. More particularly, the non-polyoxyalkylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
- the silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure may be volatile or non- volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicone oils, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of from 5 ⁇ 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, and preferably from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 1 m 2 /s.
- the silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and polyorganosiloxanes that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure including at least one aryl group. These silicones may also be organomodified.
- the organomodified silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure are preferably liquid silicones as defined previously and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, chosen, for example, from amine groups and alkoxy groups.
- Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non- volatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
- organosilicon compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasi
- Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used. These silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
- polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione ® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil ® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000; - the oils of the Mirasil ® series sold by the company Rhodia; - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm 2 /s; - the Viscasil ® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
- SF series SF 96, SF 18
- organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
- the polyorganosiloxanes that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure including at least one aryl group they may notably be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
- the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 5 ⁇ 10 -2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
- polyalkylarylsiloxanes examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: - the Silbione ® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia; - the oils of the Rhodorsil ® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia; - the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning; - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000; - certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
- General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
- organomodified silicones include: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q28220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
- the substituted amine groups are in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups; - alkoxy groups, - hydroxyl groups.
- the silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, which may be used according to the present invention, may also be chosen from amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.
- amino silicone denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
- the weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent.
- the columns used are ⁇ styragel columns.
- the eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min.200 ⁇ l of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
- the amino silicone(s) are chosen from: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (XI): in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII): R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a’-R’a’ (XII) in which: - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy; - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero,
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones known as “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” corresponding to formula (XIII): in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XIV) below: in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, notably from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
- the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
- the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XV) below:
- - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
- the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
- the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100000 g/mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g/mol.
- the commercial products comprising silicones of structure (XIV) or (XV) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (XIV) or (XV).
- a product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ® ADM 652.
- a product containing amino silicones of structure (XV) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300 ® .
- Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 ® .
- these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
- the oil- in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
- the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
- the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm.
- amino silicones of formula (XV) use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included).
- the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (XV) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E ® or SLM 28020 ® by the company Wacker.
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XVI) below: in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.
- a silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning.
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XVII) below:
- Mw weight-average molecular mass of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g/mol.
- a silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning; c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XVIII): methyl; - R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18 , for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond; - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; and - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
- - R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group
- - R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
- - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
- - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
- - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g
- Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae: [-(SiMe 2 O) x SiMe 2 -R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -R’-N(H)-R-] or alternatively [-(SiMe 2 O) x SiMe 2 -R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear
- the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.
- the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g/mol and more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g/mol. Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A- 843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
- - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;
- - R 1 and R 2 which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and
- - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
- A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched.
- R 1 and R 2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
- the amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (XXII) with: - x ranging from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000; - y ranging from 1 to 100; - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -; and - R 1 and R 2 independently being saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen notably from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from
- a silicone of formula (XXII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive. h) polysiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XXIII), (XXIV) or (XXV): As examples of amino silicones of formula (XXIII), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS- 191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.
- n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.
- amino silicones of formula (XXIV) mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
- the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.
- amino silicones of formula (XXV) mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning. i) and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty substance(s) (v) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure are preferably chosen from linear or branched C 6 to C 16 alkanes, linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, triglycerides, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, silicones and mixtures thereof; these compounds being liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, and more preferentially liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure.
- the fatty substance(s) (ii) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure are chosen from triglycerides, esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, silicones and mixtures thereof, and preferably from isopropyl myristate, coconut oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, triacetin, liquid petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, amodimethicone and mixtures thereof.
- the total content of the fatty substance(s) (v) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure is preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight; more preferentially, this total content ranges from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the sum of the total contents of nonionic (i), amphoteric or zwitterionic (ii) and optionally additional surfactants, different from (i) and (ii)) and the total content of fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, as previously defined, is advantageously greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2; preferentially, this weight ratio (Ra) ranges from 5 to 40 and better still from 10 to 35.
- the weight ratio (Ra) between the total content of surfactants and the total content of fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, particularly non-silicone fatty substances, that are different from nonionic surfactant(s), is advantageously greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2, more preferably ranges from 5 to 40 and better still from 10 to 35.
- the composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size of less than or equal to 200 nm, preferably between 1 and 150 nm, more preferentially between 2 and 100 nm, better still between 3 and 50 nm, even more preferentially between 4 and 30 nm, or even between 5 and 20 nm.
- the number-average size of the particles (or oil drops) may be determined in particular according to the known method of quasi-elastic light scattering.
- the machine As a machine that may be used for this determination, mention may be made of the machine from Brookhaven equipped with an SX 200 optical bed (with a 532 nm laser) and a BI 9000 correlator.
- This machine gives a measurement of the mean diameter by photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS), which makes it possible to determine the numerical mean diameter from the polydispersity factor, which is also measured by the machine.
- PCS photon correlation spectroscopy
- This measurement may also be performed using a Zetasizer Nano ZS machine from Malvern Instruments which makes it possible to determine the mean diameter weighted by the scattered intensity (and not weighted by the mass, the number or the volume), and also the polydispersity index.
- the composition according to the invention has very low polydispersity, i.e.
- the particles present in the composition according to the invention are droplets of oily phase optionally comprising one or more fatty substance(s) (v) and the propellant(s) (iii), in the continuous aqueous phase.
- the fixing polymers may optionally also comprise one or more fixing polymers.
- fixing polymer means any polymer that is capable, by application to the hair, of giving a shape to the head of hair or of holding an already acquired shape. All the anionic, amphoteric, cationic and nonionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof used in the art may be used in the composition according to the present patent application.
- the fixing polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from nonionic fixing polymers and anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from anionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof.
- the anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers including groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid, and have a number-average molecular mass of between about 500 and 5000000.
- the carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (XXVI): in which: - n is an integer from 0 to 10, - A 1 denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group, when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom, such as oxygen or sulfur, - R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, - R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, - R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a -CH 2 -COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
- XXVI unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers
- a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular methyl and ethyl groups.
- the anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are: A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid (also known as (meth)acrylic acid) or salts thereof. Among these polymers, mention may be made of copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer, such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters or acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted to a polyalkylene glycol, such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked.
- copolymers of acrylic acid and of C 1 to C 4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone of acrylic acid and of C 1 to C 20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl methacrylate, such as that sold by ISP under the name Acrylidone ® LM (INCI name: VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer), acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-(t-butyl)acrylamide terpolymers, such as the products Ultrahold ® Strong and Ultrahold ® 8 sold by the company BASF (INCI name: Acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymer), methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the products sold under the name Luvimer ® 100 P or Luvimer ® PRO 55 by the company BASF (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer), copolymers
- branched block polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid monomers such as the product sold under the name Fixate ® G-100L by the company Lubrizol (INCI name: AMP- acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer);
- Crotonic acid copolymers such as those including vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allylic esters or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, such as those including at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester monomer of an ⁇ - or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
- Such polymers are described, in particular, in US patents 2047398, 2723248 and 2102113, and GB patent 839805.
- Commercial products are notably those sold under the names Gantrez ® AN or ES by the company ISP, such as Gantrez ® ES 225 (INCI name: Ethyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer) or Gantrez ® ES 425L (INCI name: Butyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer); - copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allylic or methallylic esters optionally including one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, ⁇ -olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
- the fixing polymers bearing units derived from sulfonic acid may be chosen from: A’) homopolymers and copolymers including vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
- These polymers may notably be chosen from: - polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between 1000 and 100000 approximately, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; - polystyrenesulfonic acid salts such as the sodium salts that are sold for example under the name Flexan ® II by AkzoNobel (INCI name: Sodium polystyrene sulfonate).
- Such polymers are, for example, the products Eastman ® AQ38S Polymer, Eastman ® AQ55S Polymer and Eastman ® AQ48 Ultra Polymer sold by the company Eastman Chemical (name Polyester-5) which are copolymers obtained from diethylene glycol, from 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, from isophthalic acid and from sulfoisophthalic acid salt; - branched sulfonic polyesters such as those described in patent applications WO 95/18191, WO 97/08261 and WO 97/20899.
- Such compounds are, for example, the products Eastman ® AQ10D Polymer (name: Polyester-13) or Eastman ® AQ1350 Polymer sold by the company Eastman Chemical (name: Polyester-13).
- the anionic fixing polymer(s) are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert- butylacrylamide terpolymers notably sold under the name Ultrahold ® Strong by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers notably sold under the name Resyn 28-2930 by the company AkzoNobel, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the names
- the total amount of the anionic fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers including units B and C randomly distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer including at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer including one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups or else B and C can denote groups derived from zwitterionic carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine monomers; B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain including primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based group or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer bearing an ethylene- ⁇ , ⁇ - dicarboxylic unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine including one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
- amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers: (1) copolymers bearing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, ⁇ -chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide.
- Such compounds are described in patent US 3836537; (2) polymers including units derived: a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) from at least one basic comonomer such as esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
- polymers including units derived: a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) from at least one basic comonomer such as esters bearing primary, secondary,
- the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are compounds in which the alkyl groups include from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert- butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N- dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
- the acidic comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
- the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N’- dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
- the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4- trimethyladipic acid and terephthalic acid, and acids bearing an ethylenic double bond, for instance acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids.
- the alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
- - R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
- - y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
- - R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group
- - R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such
- the polymers comprising such units may also include units derived from non- zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate. Mention may be made, by way of example, of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z-301N or Z-301W by the company Clariant (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer).
- R20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O-, CH3CH2O- or phenyl group
- R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
- R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
- R23 denotes a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R22)2, with R24 representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, or -CH2-CH(CH3)- group and R22 having the meanings given above.
- polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan such as N-carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan, for instance the product sold under the name Chitoglycan by the company Sinerga SPA (INCI name: Carboxymethyl chitosan);
- amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X type chosen from: a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds including at least one unit of formula (XXXII): -D-X-D-X-D- (XXII) in which D denotes a group and X denotes the symbol E or E’, where E and E’, which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain including up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups
- copolymers may also include other vinyl comonomers, such as vinylcaprolactam.
- the ones that are most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of family (3), such as the copolymers whose INCI name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ® , Amphomer ® LV 71 or Balance ® 47 by the company AkzoNobel and those of family (4) such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate, sold, for example, under the name Diaformer Z-301N or Z-301W by the company Clariant.
- the cationic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5000000 and preferably between 1000 and 3000000.
- cationic polymers (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units of the following formulae: in which: - R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group; - A is a linear or branched alkyl group including from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R 4 , R 5 and R 6 , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group; - R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and - X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
- the copolymers of class (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the class of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with C 1 - to C 4 alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
- comonomers which may be chosen from the class of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with C 1 - to C 4 alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
- copolymers of class (1) mention may be made of: - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc ® by the company Hercules, - the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A- 080976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Herco
- Such products are notably sold under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17 by the company Meyhall.
- chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, and chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by the company Amerchol;
- cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer including a quaternary ammonium and notably described in patent US 4131576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses, grafted notably with a methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
- the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
- the total amount of the cationic fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the nonionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: - polyalkyloxazolines; - vinyl acetate homopolymers, - vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate; - homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, for instance copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by the company Röhm GmbH under the name Eudragit ® NE 30 D (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer); - copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; - styrene homopolymers; - styrene copo
- the alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
- the total content of the nonionic fixing polymer(s), present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Use may also be made, according to the invention, of fixing polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion composed of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain.
- polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-0412 704, EP-A-0412707, EP-A-0640105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0582152 and WO 93/23009, and patents US 4693935, US 4728571 and US 4972037.
- These polymers may be amphoteric, cationic, anionic or nonionic and they are preferably anionic or nonionic.
- Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that may be obtained by free radical polymerization from the monomer mixture formed from: a) 50% to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate, b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid, c) 5% to 40% by weight of a silicone macromer of formula: in which v is a number ranging from 5 to 700, the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
- grafted silicone polymers are notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) to which are grafted mixed polymer units of the poly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate) type via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) to which polymer units of the poly(isobutyl (meth)acrylate) type are grafted via a thiopropylene- type connecting chain.
- Grafted silicone polymers are sold, for example, under the names Silicone Plus Polymer ® VS80 and VA70 by 3M (INCI names: Polysilicone-8 and Polysilicone- 7, respectively).
- silicone fixing polymer Another type of silicone fixing polymer that may be mentioned is the product Luviflex ® Silk sold by the company BASF (INCI name: PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone/acrylates copolymer).
- the total amount of fixing polymer(s) of grafted silicone type when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Functionalized or non-functionalized, silicone or non-silicone, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric polyurethanes or mixtures thereof may also be used as fixing polymers.
- polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in patent applications EP 0751162, EP 0637600, EP 0648485 and FR 2 743297, of which the applicant is the proprietor, and also in patent applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 from the company BASF and EP 0 619 111 from the company National Starch.
- polyurethanes that are particularly suitable for use in the present invention mention may be made of the products sold under the names Luviset PUR ® and Luviset ® Si PUR by the company BASF (INCI names: Polyurethane-1 and Polyurethane-6, respectively).
- the total amount of the polyurethane(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fixing polymers chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof; preferentially chosen from anionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof; and better still chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid or esters thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- fixing polymers chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof; preferentially chosen from anionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof; and better still chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives
- the total amount of the fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise sodium chloride, in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the anionic surfactants The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more anionic surfactants.
- anionic surfactant means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
- a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
- the anionic surfactant(s) (i) may be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
- the carboxylate-type anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the sulfonate-type anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 – ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions;
- - the sulfate-type anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
- the carboxylate-type anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition of the invention thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-). They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C 6 -C 30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from
- C 6 -C 30 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as C 6 -C 30 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 30 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 30 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
- the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - acylglutamates, notably of C 6 -C 30 or even C 8 -C 26 , such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; - acylsarcosinates, notably of C 6 -C 30 or even C 8 -C 26 , such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate; - acyllactylates, notably of C 6 -C 30 or even C 8 -C 26 , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; - C 6 -C 30 and notably C 8 -C 26 acylglycinates; - (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (C 8 -C 26 )alkyl
- surfactants of fatty acid type notably of C 6 -C 30 .
- These surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (a) below: R-C(O)-OX (a) with - X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and - R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of 5 to 29 carbon atoms.
- R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of 7 to 23 carbon atoms, preferably of 11 to 21 carbon atoms.
- carboxylate-type surfactants mention may be made most particularly of surfactants of sarcosinate type, notably chosen from the (C 6 -C 30 )acyl sarcosinates of formula (XXXIV) below: R-C(O)-N(CH 3 )-CH 2 -C(O)-OX (XXXIV) with - X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and - R denoting a linear or branched alkyl group of 5 to 29 carbon atoms.
- R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
- (C 6 -C 30 )acyl sarcosinates of formula (XXXIV) that may be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoyl sarcosinates, stearoyl sarcosinates, myristoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form.
- carboxylate-type surfactants mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the Akypo names.
- the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (XXXV): R1-(OC 2 H 4 ) n -OCH 2 COOA (XXXV) in which: - R1 represents a linear or branched C 6 -C 24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C 8 - C 9 )alkylphenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R2 denoting a linear or branched C 9 -C 21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably, R1 is a C 8 -C 20 and preferably C 8 -C 18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl, - n is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or
- XXXV Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (XXXV), in particular mixtures of compounds bearing different groups R1.
- the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (XXXV) in which: - R1 denotes a C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
- sulfonate-type anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition of the invention include at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 – ).
- alkylsulfonates alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - C 6 -C 24 and notably C 12 -C 20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, notably lauryl sulfosuccinates; - C 6 -C 24 and notably C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; - C 6 -C 24 and notably C 12 -C 20 N-acyltaurates; - (C 6 -C 24 )acylisethionates, preferably (C 12 -C 18 )acylisethionates; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
- the anionic surfactant(s) (i) are chosen from sulfate-type anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
- sulfate-type anionic surfactant means an anionic surfactant including one or more sulfate functions (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 -).
- Such surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds notably including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferentially from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
- the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: - alkyl sulfates, notably C 8 to C 26 , and preferably C 10 to C 22 , alkyl sulfates; - alkyl ether sulfates, notably C 8 to C 26 , and preferably C 10 to C 22 , alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and mixtures thereof.
- said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt, and mixtures thereof.
- alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
- ammonium salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
- amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts such as the magnesium salt
- alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt, and mixtures thereof.
- amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
- Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
- the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C 10 -C 22 )alkyl sulfates, sodium, ammonium or magnesium (C 10 -C 22 )alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 or 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
- the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, ammonium or magnesium (C 10 -C 22 )alkyl sulfates, such as the compound sold under the name Texapon Z95P by the company BASF under the INCI name Sodium lauryl sulfate.
- the anionic surfactant(s) (i) are chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate and mixtures thereof.
- the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) (i), when they are present in the composition of the invention, is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably this total content ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may also optionally comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds defined above, preferably chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers different from the fixing polymers defined previously, thickeners, silicones different from silicones defined previously, fatty substances different from the fatty substances (v) defined previously, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents, UV-screening agents, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifiers, lubricants (or anticaking agents) and mixtures thereof.
- additional compounds different from the compounds defined above preferably chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers different from the fixing polymers defined previously, thickeners, silicones different from silicones defined previously, fatty substances different from the fatty substances (v) defined previously, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents, UV-screening agents, film-forming agents,
- the additional compound(s) are generally present in a content, for each of them, of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
- a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition of the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
- the pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7.5 and better still from 3.5 to 7.
- the pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are customarily used.
- the basifying agents examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides.
- the acidifying agents examples which may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
- the viscosity of the composition may range from 0.1 Pa.s to 4 Pa.s, preferably from 0.5 Pa.s to 2 Pa.s measured at 25°C at a shear rate of 200 tr/min.
- the viscosity of the composition can be measured with a viscometer (Rheomat Mettler Toledo RM180 Rheomat).
- the composition may comprise one or more salts, especially sodium chloride.
- the composition may comprise one or more salts, especially sodium chloride, in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative of the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
- the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof.
- the composition according to the present invention has a turbidity less than or equal to 250 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 200 NTU units, and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size of less than or equal to 200 nm, preferably between 1 and 150 nm.
- the composition according to the present invention has a turbidity less than or equal to 100 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size between 1 and 150 nm, more preferentially between 2 and 100 nm.
- the composition according to the present invention has a turbidity less than or equal to 100 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size between 2 and 100 nm, more preferentially between 3 and 50 nm.
- the composition according to the present invention has a turbidity less than or equal to 20 NTU units and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size between 4 and 30 nm, more preferentially between 5 and 20 nm.
- the composition according to the present invention is of single- phase appearance and comprises: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, (ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iii) one or more propellants, and (iv) water, (v) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, preferably non-silicone fatty substances that are different from nonionic surfactant(s) ; the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of said composition, the weight ratio between the total content of surfactants and the total content of
- the composition according to the present invention is of single- phase appearance and comprises: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, (ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iii) one or more propellants, and (iv) water, (v) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, preferably non-silicone fatty substances that are different from nonionic surfactant(s) ; the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of said composition, the weight ratio between the total content of surfactants and the total content of
- a subject of the invention is also an aerosol device comprising: - a container containing a composition as defined previously, and - a means for spraying said composition.
- the aerosol device according to the invention makes it possible to dispense said composition in foam form.
- the composition according to the invention is advantageously packaged under pressure, in an aerosol device, for example a monobloc device, which comprises a spraying means and a container.
- the spraying means is generally formed from a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the composition of the invention is sprayed, preferably in foam form.
- an aerosol device that may be used according to the present invention, mention may notably be made of plastic aerosols equipped with a 2 ⁇ 0.51 mm GI valve and a DMPR229 dispenser.
- the container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, polymer or metal, and may optionally be coated with a protective varnish coat.
- the container of said aerosol device is transparent, such that the composition according to the invention is visible to the naked eye through said container.
- a subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular a process for the washing and/or conditioning, of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined previously, this application optionally being followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time.
- a subject of the present invention is also a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined previously, this application optionally being followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time.
- the application of the composition according to the invention is followed by rinsing.
- the composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin materials. It is preferably applied to wet keratin materials.
- the keratin materials may optionally be dried or left to dry.
- the term “keratin materials” denotes the skin and the scalp, and keratin fibres in particular such as the hair. More preferably, the keratin material is hair.
- the cosmetic treatment process of the invention is preferably a process for the styling, i.e. the shaping and/or fixing, of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.
- the application of the composition according to the invention is preferably not followed by rinsing.
- the composition is applied to wet hair.
- the composition is applied to dry hair.
- Example 1 a Preparation of the formulations Formulations A1 and A2 according to the invention and comparative formulation B1 below were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (as weight percentage of active material).
- Table 1 b. Protocol The formulation juices of compositions A1, A2 and B1 are prepared beforehand from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 above before introducing the propellants (i.e. the isobutane/propane/butane mixture). In other words, the formulation juices do not comprise any propellants.
- the formulation juices A1 and A2 thus obtained are transparent and of single- phase appearance, whereas the formulation juice B1 has a two-phase appearance.
- the turbidity and particle size measurements of the single-phase formulation juices A1 and A2 were performed before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the compositions.
- the turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent.
- the number-average size of the oil drops in the formulation juices A1 and A2 was determined via the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS machine from Malvern Instruments. c. Results The results obtained for each of the formulation juices A1 and A2 are expressed in the table below.
- compositions A1, A2 and B1 were then packaged in transparent PET aerosol devices equipped with a DMPR229 dispenser and a 2 ⁇ 0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized.
- the pressurized compositions A1 and A2 remain single-phase and transparent, whereas the pressurized composition B1 is not transparent.
- the single-phase appearance and the transparency of compositions A1 and A2 are stable over time. In particular, after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C), the appearance of these formulations has not changed.
- compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention dispensed by means of the aerosol device make it possible to obtain a uniform, firm and creamy foam which holds well in the hand and is easily and uniformly applied to the entire head of hair.
- Compositions A1 and A2 also afford good detergency properties in addition to a conditioning effect on the hair thus treated.
- Example 2 a Preparation of the formulation Formulation A3 according to the present invention below was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (as weight percentage of active material).
- the formulation juice A3 thus obtained is transparent and of single-phase appearance. The turbidity and particle size measurements of the single-phase formulation juice A3 were performed before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the compositions.
- the turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent.
- the number-average size of the oil drops in the formulation juice A3 was determined via the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS machine from Malvern Instruments. c. Results
- the results obtained for the formulation juice A3 are expressed in the table below. [Table 4]
- the propellants 56/24/20 isobutane/propane/butane mixture) were then added to the formulation juice A3, in a juice/gas ratio of 95/5.
- composition A3 thus obtained was then packaged in a transparent PET aerosol device equipped with a DMPR229 dispenser and a 2 ⁇ 0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized.
- the pressurized composition A3 remains single-phased and transparent. Moreover, this single-phase appearance and its transparency are stable over time. In particular, after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C), the appearance of the composition has not changed.
- composition A3 according to the invention dispensed by means of the aerosol device makes it possible to obtain a uniform, firm and creamy foam which holds well in the hand and is easily and uniformly applied to the entire head of hair. This composition A3 also affords good styling properties in addition to a conditioning effect on the hair thus treated.
- Example 3 a Example 3 a.
- Formulations L, M and N according to the invention and comparative formulations O, P, Q and R below were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (as weight percentage of active material).
- the formulation juices of compositions L, M and N according to the present invention and comparative formulations O, P, Q and R are respectively prepared beforehand from the ingredients indicated in Tables 5 and 6 above before introducing the propellants (i.e. the isobutane/propane/butane mixture).
- the turbidity and particle size measurements of the juices were performed before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the compositions.
- the turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent.
- the number-average size of the oil drops in the formulation juices was determined via the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS machine from Malvern Instruments. c. Results
- the results obtained for each of the formulation juices are expressed in the table below. [Table 7]
- the propellants 56/24/20 isobutane/propane/butane mixture) were then added to the formulation juices L, M and N according to the present invention and the comparative compositions O, P, Q and R, in a juice/gas ratio of 95/5.
- compositions were then packaged in transparent PET aerosol devices equipped with a DMPR229 dispenser and a 2 ⁇ 0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized.
- the pressurized compositions L, M and N are of single-phase appearance and transparent, whereas the pressurized compositions O, P, Q and R are not transparent and have two-phase appearance.
- the single-phase appearance and the transparency of compositions L, M and N are stable over time. In particular, after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C), the appearance of these formulations has not changed. Conversely, two distinct phases form rapidly with an opaque upper phase for the comparative compositions O, P, Q and R. This phase distinction becomes more pronounced over time, notably after 24 hours of storage at room temperature.
- Example 4 a Example 4 a.
- Preparation of the formulation Formulation W according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (as weight percentage of active material). [Table 8] b. Protocol The formulation juice of composition W according to the present invention is prepared beforehand from the ingredients indicated in Table 8 above before introducing the propellants (i.e. the isobutane/propane/butane mixture). The turbidity and particle size measurements of the juice were performed before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the composition. The turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent.
- the number-average size of the oil drops in the formulation juice was determined via the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS machine from Malvern Instruments. c. Results The results obtained for the formulation juice are expressed in the table below. [Table 9] The propellants (56/24/20 isobutane/propane/butane mixture) were then added to the formulation juice according to the present invention in a juice/gas ratio of 95/5. The ensued composition was then packaged in transparent PET aerosol devices equipped with a DMPR229 dispenser and a 2 ⁇ 0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized. The pressurized composition is of single-phase and transparent. Moreover, the single-phase appearance and the transparency of composition W is stable over time. In particular, after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C), the appearance of this formulation has not changed.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition of single-phase appearance comprising a combination of a nonionic surfactant and of an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one fatty substance, in the presence of a propellant. The invention also concerns an aerosol device containing said composition, and also to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the skin and the hair, using said composition.
Description
DESCRIPTION TITLE: Composition of single-phase appearance comprising a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant The present invention relates to a composition of single-phase appearance comprising a combination of a nonionic surfactant and of an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one fatty substance, in the presence of a propellant. The invention also concerns an aerosol device containing said composition, and also to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the skin and the hair, using said composition. It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin materials notably such as the hair and the skin. These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washing mitt makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin. Shampoos and body cleansing products are usually in the form of lotions, gels, foams, creams or sprays. When these products are packaged in the form of sprays or in aerosol devices, they are generally only available in opaque containers since the compositions usually used do not have a sufficiently attractive appearance, notably in the presence of a propellant, or even in the presence of a liquefied propellant. Now, an increasing number of users of bodycare and haircare products are notably in search of compositions that are more attractive, more fluid and clearer, or even transparent. Moreover, these compositions are generally not stable over time or with respect to temperature, which makes their application difficult and non-uniform and gives the consumer an unpleasant sensation. Thus, there is a real need for a composition which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which has an attractive aesthetic appearance that is stable over time, which is easy to spread over the entire head of hair or the skin, and which has improved foaming and cleansing (or washing) properties, notably giving keratin materials a soft, pleasant feel. It has now been discovered that a composition of single-phase appearance comprising a combination of at least one nonionic surfactant and of at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant in the presence of at least one propellant, makes it possible to achieve the objectives presented above, and notably to propose a
composition which is stable over time, combining an attractive aesthetic appearance with improved foaming properties. One subject of the present invention is thus a composition of single-phase appearance comprising: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants, (ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iii) one or more propellants, and (iv) water, (v) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure ; the weight ratio between the total content of surfactants and the total content of fatty substances (v) is greater than or equal to 1. The composition according to the invention, when it is dispensed by means of a conventional aerosol device, makes it possible in particular to dispense a uniform, firm and creamy mousse which holds well in the hand. Furthermore, the foam formed from the composition according to the invention has good working qualities. It spreads easily and evenly over the keratin materials and has good conditioning and cleaning properties for the hair or the skin, and also good styling properties on the hair, where appropriate. After rinsing or not, the composition affords cosmetic properties to the keratin materials, and notably a pleasant feel. By virtue of its formulation and its improved working qualities and foaming qualities, the composition of the invention can be used in various cosmetic treatments of the skin and/or hair, such as cleansing compositions, conditioners or styling products. As a styling product, it notably affords good hold of the head of hair over time under both wet and dry conditions, while at the same time giving the head of hair volume, without making the hairstyle rigid. In the case of curly hair, the composition according to the invention also affords good curl definition, and also good curl hold. In particular, the composition according to the invention gives the hair flexibility and volume, affording it a fluid movement, while at the same time maintaining a natural appearance. It also gives the hair a particularly soft, smooth and pleasant feel. The head of hair styled using the composition of the invention is held in
shape without being set rigid and the styling effects afforded thereto persist throughout the day. The composition according to the invention has a single-phase appearance, which is preferably clear, or even transparent, which gives it a particularly attractive aesthetic appearance that is highly sought by users. Notably, when it is packaged in a pressurized device, such as an aerosol, the propellant(s) are dispersed in the composition, giving the composition a particularly aesthetic homogeneous appearance. The aesthetic appearance of the composition according to the invention is also particularly enhanced when it is packaged in a container that is itself transparent. Furthermore, the permanent dispersion of the propellant(s) renders them non- flammable, improving the safety of the final aerosol product and complying with certain regulations, notably American regulations. It has also been found that the composition according to the invention is stable over time, and also with respect to temperature. In particular, the appearance of the composition according to the invention remains significantly the same after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C). The present invention also relates to an aerosol device comprising: - a container containing a composition as defined previously, and - a means for spraying said composition. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably a washing and/or conditioning process, of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair and the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as previously defined, said application being optionally followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time. The present invention also relates to a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined previously, said application being optionally followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time. The present invention also relates to a process for styling keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined previously, said application being optionally followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time. Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”. Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”. In addition, the term “two-phase or multi-phase appearance” refers to a composition comprising at least two phases that are distinct from each other and superposed one on the other. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is of single- phase appearance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “of single-phase appearance” means that the composition according to the invention is constituted, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure: - of a single phase; or - of two or more phases, in which one of the phases is dispersed in the other, such that the phases cannot be distinguished from each other with the naked eye. The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a clear to transparent fluid, preferably a transparent fluid. The transparency of the composition according to the invention may be characterized by measuring its turbidity, by turbidimetry (in NTU units). In the context of the present invention, the turbidity measurements were performed using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent. It is also possible to measure the turbidity of the composition using a turbidimeter such as the HI 88713- ISO model from the company Hanna Instruments. Advantageously, the turbidity of the composition according to the invention, measured at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 250 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 200 NTU units, more preferentially less than or equal to 100 NTU units, better still less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and even more preferentially less than or equal to 20 NTU units. The transparency may also be assessed visually when the composition is packaged in a transparent container. According to this method, the composition is transparent if the printed characters on a sheet of paper placed behind the container can be read clearly. The printed characters are preferably in Arial font, font size 12 or larger.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cationic surfactants. The term “free of cationic surfactants” means that the composition does not comprise any cationic surfactants, or that the total content of cationic surfactants is less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (i) The nonionic surfactants The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants. Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178. They are notably chosen from alcohols, α-diols, (C1-C20)alkylphenols or fatty acids, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and bearing at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30. Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6 to C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, N-(C6 to C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10 to C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10 to C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides. The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the present invention may be chosen more particularly from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30. Preferably, the polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols are chosen from the nonionic surfactants of formula (I): R-O-(CH2-CH2-O)n-H (I) in which: R is a linear or branched C8 to C40 alkenyl radical; and n is an integer ranging from 6 to 20.
Preferably, R represents a linear or branched C12 to C30, more preferentially C16 to C20, alkenyl radical. Preferably, n represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12. Advantageously, R represents a linear or branched C16 to C20 alkenyl radical; and/or n represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from oleyl alcohol containing 8 mol of ethylene oxide, oleyl alcohol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide and oleyl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof; and more preferentially, the nonionic surfactant of formula (I) is oleyl alcohol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Oleth-10). Other polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols such as oleth-3, oleth-5, laureth-4, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20, oleth-30 and mixtures thereof may also be used. The nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units. Mention may be made in particular of the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, which may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-21), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-20), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-40), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-60), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-61), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-80), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 OE) (Polysorbate-81), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-65), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-85). The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the present invention may be chosen more particularly from nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants and mixtures thereof. The term “alkyl(poly)glycoside” denotes an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside, also referred to in the present patent application as an
alkylglycoside, which may be alkoxylated with one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferentially of C2-C4. The alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) used, alone or as mixtures, in accordance with the present invention may be represented by formula (II) below: R1O-(R2O)t(G)v (II) in which formula (II): - R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group including from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl group includes from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene group including from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a saccharide unit including 5 or 6 carbon atoms, - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, and - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) correspond to formula (II) in which: - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose, - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and - R2 and v are as defined previously. The degree of polymerization of the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) as represented, for example, by the index v in formula (II) above, ranges on average from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. This degree of polymerization more particularly ranges from 1 to 2 and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average. The glycoside bonds between the saccharide units are 1,6- or 1,4- bonds; preferably 1,4- bonds. The alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactants that may be used in the present invention are preferably alkyl(poly)glycosides notably represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). Use may also be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK, or the products sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade names Tego Care CG 90 or Tego Care CG 90 MB.
The nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from silicone nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. The term “silicone compound” means a compound which comprises at least one (-Si-O-) group. The silicone surfactants that may be used may be water-soluble, spontaneously water-dispersible or water-insoluble. Preferably, they are water-soluble or spontaneously water-dispersible. Preferably, the silicone surfactants are oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated. The silicone surfactants may be chosen from the compounds of formulae (III), (IV), (V), (VI) and (VII) below:
in which: - R1, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C1- C30 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; - R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical;
- R2, which may be identical or different, represents a group –(CH2)c-O- (C2H4O)a’-(C3H6O)b’-R5 or –(CH2)c-O-(C4H8O)a’-R5 in which a’ ranges from 0 to 50; b’ ranges from 0 to 50 and a’+b’ is greater than or equal to 1; c ranges from 0 to 4; and - R5, which may be identical or different, is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group including from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; a linear or branched alkoxy group including from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; a linear or branched acyl group including from 2 to 12 carbon atoms; a hydroxyl group, a group -SO3M, a group -OCOR6, a C1-C6 aminoalkoxy group optionally substituted on the amine with one or two C1-C4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; a C2-C6 aminoacyl group optionally substituted on the amine with one or two C1-C4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; a group -NHCH2CH2COOM, a group -N(CH2CH2COOM)2; a C1-C12 aminoalkyl group, optionally substituted on the amine and on the alkyl chain with one or two C1-C4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, a C1-C30 carboxyacyl group, a phosphono group optionally substituted with one or two substituted C1-C12 aminoalkyl groups, a group -CO(CH2)dCOOM, a group -OCOCHR7(CH2)dCOOM, a group -NHCO(CH2)dOH, a group -NH3Y; in which M, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, Na, K, Li, NH4 or an organic amine; R6 denotes a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl group; R7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a group SO3M; d ranges from 1 to 10; and Y represents an anion such as a halide (chloride, bromide), a sulfate, or a carboxylate (acetate, lactate, citrate); - m ranges from 0 to 20; - m’ ranges from 1 to 20; - n ranges from 0 to 500; - p ranges from 1 to 50; - q ranges from 0 to 20; - w varies from 1 to 100; - a ranges from 0 to 50; b ranges from 0 to 50; and a+b is greater than or equal to 1, in formula (VI). Preferably, the silicone surfactants correspond to the general formulae (III), (IV) or (VII) as defined above, and more particularly correspond: to formulae (III) or (IV) in which at least one, preferably all, of the following conditions are satisfied: - R1 denotes a methyl group; - R2 represents a group –(CH2)c-O-(C2H4O)a’-(C 3H6O)b’-R5, with c = 2 or 3;
ep ese ts a g oup (C )c O (C O)a (C3 6O)b 5, w t 5 representing a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an acetyl group; preferably a hydrogen atom; - R2 represents a group –(CH2)c-O-(C2H4O)a’-(C3H6O)b’-R5, with a’ ranging from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 2 to 25; - R2 represents a group –(CH2)c-O-(C2H4O)a’-(C3H6O)b’-R5, with b’ ranging from 0 to 25; preferably, b’ is equal to 0; - n ranges from 0 to 100; and/or - p ranges from 1 to 20; or to formula (VII) in which at least one, preferably all, of the following conditions are satisfied: - R1 denotes a methyl or cetyl group; - R2 represents a group –(CH2)c-O-(C2H4O)a’-(C 3H6O)b’-R5, with c = 2 or 3; - R2 represents a group –(CH2)c-O-(C2H4O)a’-(C3H6O)b’-R5, with R5 representing a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an acetyl group; preferably a hydrogen atom; - R2 represents a group –(CH2)c-O-(C2H4O)a’-(C3H6O)b’-R5, with a’ ranging from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 2 to 25; - R2 represents a group –(CH2)c-O-(C2H4O)a’-(C3H6O)b’-R5, with b’ ranging from 0 to 25, preferably from 1 to 20; - n and q range from 0 to 100; and/or - m’ ranges from 1 to 20. More preferentially, the silicone surfactants may be chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) in which, R1 denotes a methyl group, and R2 is a group - (CH2)c-O-(C2H4O)a’-(C3H6O)b’-R5 with c equal to 2 or 3; a’ ranges from 2 to 25, b’ ranges from 0 to 25, R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; such as compounds of formula
in which R is a cetyl group, X = 10, Y = 1, n = 1 to 200, o = 1 to 100, and m = 1 to 40 or in which o and y are 0 and X = 11, n = 1 to 200, and m = 1 to 40. By way of example, the silicone nonionic surfactants may be chosen from PEG-dimethicone, for instance PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, and/or alkyl PEG/PPG dimethicone, for instance PEG/PPG-10/1 cetyl dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 dimethicone. Mention may notably be made of the silicone surfactants sold under the trade names Fluid DC193 and DC 5225C by the Dow Corning company, Silwet® L 77 by the company OSI, and Mazil® 756 by the company Mazer PPG, KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu and Abil EM 90 from Evonik. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of formula (I) as defined above, alkyl (poly)glycosides of formula (II) as defined above, oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, silicone surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and better still from oleth-10, polysorbate 80, decyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. The total content of the nonionic surfactant(s) present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight and better still from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (ii) The amphoteric surfactants
The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Particularly, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may notably be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8- C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and (C8- C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof. Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (VIII) and (IX) below: Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X- (VIII) in which formula (VIII): - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil; preferably, Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1- C4)alkylaryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+ and X- are absent; Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B’) (IX) in which formula (IX): - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’; - B’ represents the group -(CH2)zY’, with z = 1 or 2; - X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
- Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’; - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra’ represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, preferably Ra’ an alkyl group, notably a C17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate. Use may also be made of compounds of formula (X): Ra’’-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (X) in which formula (X): - Y’’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’’; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra”-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; and - n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (X), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB. These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is advantageously made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, such as cocoyl betaine (C8- C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (C8- C20)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof. Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8- C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, and better still from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof. The total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.75% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred variant of the invention, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, and the total content of the (C8- C20)alkylbetaine(s) and/or of the (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaine(s) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.75% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% by weight and even more preferentially from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio (R) between the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii), present in the composition of the invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 1 and more preferentially greater than or equal to 1.5. Advantageously, this weight ratio (R) ranges from 2 to 15. The total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) (i.e. the sum of the total contents of nonionic surfactants (i), and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii)), present in the composition of the invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, this total content ranges from 5% to 40% by weight and more preferentially from 6% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(iii) The propellants The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more propellants. The propellant(s) that may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from liquefied gases such as dimethyl ether, chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, 1-chloro- 1,1-difluoroethane or 1,1-difluoroethane, or volatile hydrocarbons notably such as C3 to C5 alkanes, for instance propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane or pentane; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the propellant(s) are chosen from volatile, optionally halogenated hydrocarbons, for example n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane and halogenated derivatives thereof; dimethyl ether; and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from dimethyl ether, C3 to C5 alkanes, in particular propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof, and better still from C3 to C5 alkanes, in particular propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the propellant (s) used are fully dissolved or dispersed in the composition before the first use of the composition. The term “fully dispersed in the composition” means that the propellant(s) are fully present in the composition; or that the total content of the non-dispersed propellant(s) (i.e. the propellants not present in the composition according to the invention) is less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the propellant(s) present in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 10% by weight, and preferably less than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferentially, the total content of the propellant(s) ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight and even more preferentially from 3% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (iv) Water The composition according to the present invention also comprises water. The total content of water present in the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, and more preferentially ranges from 50% to 93% by weight and better still from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one variant of the invention, the composition may optionally comprise a mixture of water and of one or more organic solvents chosen from C1 to C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof. According to this variant, the total content of the organic solvent(s) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, and better still from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (v) The fatty substances The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). The fatty substance(s) used in the composition of the invention have a melting point strictly less than 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa), and more preferentially less than or equal to 28°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). In other words, the fatty substance(s) used in the composition of the present invention are liquid at 35°C and at atmospheric pressure, preferably liquid at 28°C and at atmospheric pressure. Better still, the fatty substance(s) used in the composition according to the invention are liquid at room temperature, i.e. they have a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa), i.e. it has a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight in water. They generally have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms. The fatty substances are generally soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Preferably, the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure included in the composition according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance whose structure does not include any silicon atoms, thus notably not comprising any siloxane groups. The term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom, and more particularly at least one Si-O bond. The fatty substances that may be used generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms. They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated, and preferably do not contain any - COOH functions. The fatty substance(s) are preferably neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated, and preferably do not contain any -COOH functions. The fatty substance(s) (v) are namely different from nonionic surfactant(s). Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are non-silicone fatty substances and are neither poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated, and more preferably do not contain any -COOH functions. Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are non-silicone fatty substances and are different from nonionic surfactant(s). The fatty substance(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may notably be chosen from hydrocarbons, triglycerides, fatty esters, fatty acids, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, silicones and mixtures thereof; these compounds being liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, and preferentially liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure. According to the present patent application, the terms “fatty ester”, “fatty alcohol” and “fatty acid” respectively denote saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters, alcohols and acids comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon” means a compound solely comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms. More particularly, the hydrocarbons that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa), preferably liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure, are chosen from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6 to C16 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof,
petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane. Preferably, the hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid paraffins, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum jelly, undecane, tridecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof. In a most particularly preferred variant, the hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins, isododecane and a mixture of undecane and tridecane. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty ester” means an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol. More particularly, the esters that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa), which are preferably liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure, are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, which are optionally hydroxylated, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched. Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of alkyl palmitates, notably C1 to C18 alkyl palmitates, notably ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, notably C1 to C18 alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, alkyl stearates, notably C1 to C18 alkyl stearates, notably isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate. Use may also be made of esters of optionally hydroxylated C3 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy C4 to C26 non-sugar alcohols. Mention may notably be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di(n-propyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate,
trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyethylene glycol distearates and alkyl malates, notably (C6-C18)alkyl malates, in particular bis(C12-C13)alkyl malate. Among the esters mentioned above, use is preferentially made of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2- hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, cetyl octanoate and bis(C12-C13)alkyl malate. Among the liquid fatty esters, use may be made of esters and diesters of sugars and of C6-C30, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids. Isopropyl myristate is particularly preferred. The term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Preferably, these said sugars are chosen from sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, notably such as oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters. More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates, or alternatively of methylglucose dioleate (Glucate® DO).
Use may be made, among sugar esters, of pentaerythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate or caprylic and capric acid hexaesters as a mixture with dipentaerythritol. Among the triglycerides, mention may be made of triglycerides of plant origin such as plant oils or synthetic triglycerides. More particularly, said plant oil(s) or synthetic oil(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara pea oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cotton seed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, blueberry seed oil, poppy seed oil, orange pip oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, coconut kernel oil, vernonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil. Triacetin (glycerol triester of acetic acid) may also be used. Preferably, triglycerides of plant origin, in particular caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, coconut oil and triacetin, are used as triglycerides that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa), more preferentially liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure. The term “fatty acid” means a non-salified fatty acid, i.e. the fatty acid must not be in the form of a generally soluble soap, i.e. it must not be salified with a base. More particularly, the liquid fatty acids that may be used according to the invention are chosen from the acids of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably including from 7 to 39 carbon atoms. Preferably, R is a C7 to C29 alkyl or C7 to C29 alkenyl group, better still a C12 to C24 alkyl or C12 to C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups. Preferentially, the fatty acid(s) that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, more preferentially liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure, are chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof. The non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition according to the invention include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated.
The saturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, which is preferably acyclic. More particularly, the saturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, 2- decyltetradecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. Octyldodecanol and 2-decyltetradecanol are most particularly preferred. The unsaturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols have, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non- aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic. More particularly, the non-polyoxyalkylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred. The silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, which may be used in the composition according to the present invention, may be volatile or non- volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicone oils, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of from 5×10-6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C, and preferably from 1×10-5 to 1 m2/s. Preferably, the silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and polyorganosiloxanes that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure including at least one aryl group. These silicones may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, which may be used in accordance with the invention, are preferably liquid silicones as defined previously and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, chosen, for example, from amine groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non- volatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold notably under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide. Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6 m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane notably sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones falling within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol.91, Jan.76, pages 27-32 - Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used. These silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000; - the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2/s; - the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. As regards the polyorganosiloxanes that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure including at least one aryl group, they may notably be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10-5 to 5×10-2 m2/s at 25°C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: - the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia; - the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia; - the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning; - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000; - certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes including: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q28220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amine groups are in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups; - alkoxy groups, - hydroxyl groups.
The silicones that are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, which may be used according to the present invention, may also be chosen from amino silicones, and mixtures thereof. The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are µ styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min.200 µl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry. Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (XI):
in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII): R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a’-R’a’ (XII) in which: - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy; - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably
from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: • -NR’’-Q-N(R’’)2, • -N(R’’)2, • -N+(R’’)3 A-, • -N+H(R’’)2 A-, • -N+H2(R’’) A-, • -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)H2 A-, • -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)2H A- and • -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)3 A-, in which R”, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones known as “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” corresponding to formula (XIII):
in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.
According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XIV) below:
in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, notably from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol. According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XV) below:
in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100000 g/mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g/mol. The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (XIV) or (XV) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (XIV) or (XV). A product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (XV) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®. When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil- in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number-average size of the
silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (XV), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (XV) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker. According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XVI) below:
in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol. A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning. According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) are chosen from the silicones of formula (XVII) below:
from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g/mol. A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning; c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XVIII):
methyl;
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond; - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; and - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. Such amino silicones are notably described in patent US 4185087. d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (XIX):
- R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond; - R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; and - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. Such amino silicones are notably described in patent application EP-A 0530 974. e) the amino silicones of formula (XX):
in which: - R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group. Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R’-N(H)-R-] or alternatively [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched
butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R’ denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-. The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%. The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g/mol and more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g/mol. Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A- 843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive. g) the amino silicones of formulae (XXI) and (XXII):
in which: - R, R’ and R’’, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;
in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-. Preferably, R1 and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (XXII) with: - x ranging from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000; - y ranging from 1 to 100; - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and - R1 and R2 independently being saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen notably from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl,
heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. A silicone of formula (XXII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive. h) polysiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XXIII), (XXIV) or (XXV):
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XXIII), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS- 191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.
In formula (XXIV), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000. As examples of amino silicones of formula (XXIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest. In formula (XXV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000. As examples of amino silicones of formula (XXV), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning. i) and mixtures thereof. The fatty substance(s) (v) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure are preferably chosen from linear or branched C6 to C16 alkanes, linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, triglycerides, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, silicones and mixtures thereof; these compounds being liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure, and more preferentially liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, the fatty substance(s) (ii) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure are chosen from triglycerides, esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, silicones and mixtures thereof, and preferably from isopropyl myristate, coconut oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, triacetin, liquid petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, amodimethicone and mixtures thereof. The total content of the fatty substance(s) (v) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure is preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight; more preferentially, this total content ranges from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio (Ra) between the total content of surfactants (i.e. the sum of the total contents of nonionic (i), amphoteric or zwitterionic (ii) and optionally additional surfactants, different from (i) and (ii)) and the total content of fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, as previously defined, is advantageously greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2; preferentially, this weight ratio (Ra) ranges from 5 to 40 and better still from 10 to 35.
The weight ratio (Ra) between the total content of surfactants and the total content of fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, particularly non-silicone fatty substances, that are different from nonionic surfactant(s), is advantageously greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2, more preferably ranges from 5 to 40 and better still from 10 to 35. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size of less than or equal to 200 nm, preferably between 1 and 150 nm, more preferentially between 2 and 100 nm, better still between 3 and 50 nm, even more preferentially between 4 and 30 nm, or even between 5 and 20 nm. The number-average size of the particles (or oil drops) may be determined in particular according to the known method of quasi-elastic light scattering. As a machine that may be used for this determination, mention may be made of the machine from Brookhaven equipped with an SX 200 optical bed (with a 532 nm laser) and a BI 9000 correlator. This machine gives a measurement of the mean diameter by photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS), which makes it possible to determine the numerical mean diameter from the polydispersity factor, which is also measured by the machine. This measurement may also be performed using a Zetasizer Nano ZS machine from Malvern Instruments which makes it possible to determine the mean diameter weighted by the scattered intensity (and not weighted by the mass, the number or the volume), and also the polydispersity index. In addition, the composition according to the invention has very low polydispersity, i.e. the particles (or oil drops) have very homogeneous size. The particles present in the composition according to the invention are droplets of oily phase optionally comprising one or more fatty substance(s) (v) and the propellant(s) (iii), in the continuous aqueous phase. The fixing polymers The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more fixing polymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fixing polymer” means any polymer that is capable, by application to the hair, of giving a shape to the head of hair or of holding an already acquired shape.
All the anionic, amphoteric, cationic and nonionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof used in the art may be used in the composition according to the present patent application. Preferably, the fixing polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from nonionic fixing polymers and anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from anionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof. The anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers including groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid, and have a number-average molecular mass of between about 500 and 5000000. The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (XXVI):
in which: - n is an integer from 0 to 10, - A1 denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group, when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom, such as oxygen or sulfur, - R7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, - R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, - R9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl group. In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular methyl and ethyl groups. The anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are: A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid (also known as (meth)acrylic acid) or salts thereof. Among these polymers, mention may be made of copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer, such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters or acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted to a polyalkylene glycol, such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described
in particular in French patent 1222944 and German patent application 2330956, the copolymers of this type including an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described notably in Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1 to C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C1 to C20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl methacrylate, such as that sold by ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM (INCI name: VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer), acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-(t-butyl)acrylamide terpolymers, such as the products Ultrahold® Strong and Ultrahold® 8 sold by the company BASF (INCI name: Acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymer), methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the products sold under the name Luvimer® 100 P or Luvimer® PRO 55 by the company BASF (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer), copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate, such as the products sold under the name Luvimer® MAE or Luviflex® Soft by the company BASF (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer), acrylic acid/butyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Balance® CR by the company Akzo Nobel (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer), or the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L 100 by the company Rohm Pharma (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer). Mention may also be made of branched block polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid monomers, such as the product sold under the name Fixate® G-100L by the company Lubrizol (INCI name: AMP- acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer); B) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those including vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allylic esters or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, such as those including at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester monomer of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents 1222944, 1580545, 2265782, 2265781, 1564110 and 2439798. Commercial products which fall into this category are the products Resyn® 28-2930 and 28-1310 sold by the company Akzo Nobel (INCI names: VA / crotonates / vinyl decanoate copolymer and VA / crotonates copolymer, respectively). Mention may also be made of the products Luviset® CA 66 sold by the company BASF, Aristoflex® A60 sold by the company Clariant (INCI name: VA /
crotonates copolymer) and Mexomere® PW or PAM sold by the company Chimex (INCI name: VA / vinyl butyl benzoate / crotonates copolymer); C) copolymers of C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: - copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and esters thereof, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated. Such polymers are described, in particular, in US patents 2047398, 2723248 and 2102113, and GB patent 839805. Commercial products are notably those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by the company ISP, such as Gantrez® ES 225 (INCI name: Ethyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer) or Gantrez® ES 425L (INCI name: Butyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer); - copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allylic or methallylic esters optionally including one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated. These polymers are described, for example, in patents FR 2350384 and FR 2357241; D) polyacrylamides including carboxylate groups. The fixing polymers bearing units derived from sulfonic acid may be chosen from: A’) homopolymers and copolymers including vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units. These polymers may notably be chosen from: - polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between 1000 and 100000 approximately, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; - polystyrenesulfonic acid salts such as the sodium salts that are sold for example under the name Flexan® II by AkzoNobel (INCI name: Sodium polystyrene sulfonate). These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719;
- polyacrylamidosulfonic acid salts, such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name Rheocare® HSP-1180 by Cognis (INCI name: polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid); B’) Sulfonic polyesters, these polymers being advantageously obtained by polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid, of at least one diol or of a mixture of diol and of diamine, and of at least one difunctional monomer including a sulfonic function. Among these polymers, mention may be made of: - linear sulfonic polyesters such as those described in patent applications US 3734874, US 3779993, US 4119680, US 4300580, US 4973656, US 5660816, US 5 662 893 and US 5 674 479. Such polymers are, for example, the products Eastman® AQ38S Polymer, Eastman® AQ55S Polymer and Eastman® AQ48 Ultra Polymer sold by the company Eastman Chemical (name Polyester-5) which are copolymers obtained from diethylene glycol, from 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, from isophthalic acid and from sulfoisophthalic acid salt; - branched sulfonic polyesters such as those described in patent applications WO 95/18191, WO 97/08261 and WO 97/20899. Such compounds are, for example, the products Eastman® AQ10D Polymer (name: Polyester-13) or Eastman® AQ1350 Polymer sold by the company Eastman Chemical (name: Polyester-13). According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymer(s) are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert- butylacrylamide terpolymers notably sold under the name Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers notably sold under the name Resyn 28-2930 by the company AkzoNobel, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the names Gantrez® ES 425L or ES 225 by the company ISP, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAE by the company BASF, and the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name Luviset® CA 66 by the company BASF, and the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name Aristoflex® A60 by the company Clariant, the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymers sold under the name Acrylidone® LM by the
company ISP, the polymer sold under the name Fixate® G-100L by the company Lubrizol, the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid/ vinyl p-tert-butylbenzoate copolymers sold under the names Mexomere® PW or PAM by the company Chimex. The total amount of the anionic fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers including units B and C randomly distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer including at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer including one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups or else B and C can denote groups derived from zwitterionic carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine monomers; B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain including primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based group or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer bearing an ethylene-α,β- dicarboxylic unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine including one or more primary or secondary amine groups. The amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers: (1) copolymers bearing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in patent US 3836537; (2) polymers including units derived: a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
c) from at least one basic comonomer such as esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are compounds in which the alkyl groups include from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert- butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N- dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides. The acidic comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N’- dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. The copolymers of which the INCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV71 or Balance® 47 by the company Akzo Nobel, are particularly used; (3) partially or totally acylated and crosslinked polyaminoamides derived from polyaminoamides of general formula (XXVII):
in which: - R10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid bearing an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids, or from a group derived from the addition of any one of said acids to a bis-primary or bis- secondary amine, and - Z denotes a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in proportions of from 60 mol% to 100 mol%, the group (XXVIII)
in which x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2, this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetramine or dipropylenetriamine,
b) in proportions of from 0 to 40 mol%, the group (XXVIII) above in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine:
c) in proportions of from 0 to 20 mol%, the –NH-(CH2)6-NH- group derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, using from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone, or salts thereof. The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4- trimethyladipic acid and terephthalic acid, and acids bearing an ethylenic double bond, for instance acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids. The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. (4) polymers including zwitterionic units of formula (XXIX):
in which: - R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, - y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, - R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and - R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10. The polymers comprising such units may also include units derived from non- zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or
methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate. Mention may be made, by way of example, of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z-301N or Z-301W by the company Clariant (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer). (5) polymers derived from chitosan including monomer units corresponding to formulae (D), (E) and (F) below:
the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5% and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30% and 90%, it being understood that, in this unit (F), R16 represents a group of formula (XXX):
in which: if q = 0, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted with one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups R11, R12 and R13 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom; or, if q = 1, R11, R12 and R13 each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. (6) polymers containing units corresponding to the general formula (XXXI) are described, for example, in French patent 1400366:
in which R20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O-, CH3CH2O- or phenyl group, R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, R23 denotes a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R22)2, with R24 representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, or -CH2-CH(CH3)- group and R22 having the meanings given above. (7) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan, for instance the product sold under the name Chitoglycan by the company Sinerga SPA (INCI name: Carboxymethyl chitosan); (8) amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X type chosen from: a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds including at least one unit of formula (XXXII): -D-X-D-X-D- (XXXII) in which D denotes a group
and X denotes the symbol E or E’, where E and E’, which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain including up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which may include, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups;
b) polymers of formula (XXXIII): -D-X-D-X- (XXXIII) in which D denotes a group
and X denotes the symbol E or E’ and at least once E’; E having the meaning given above and E’ being a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and which includes one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted with an oxygen atom and which necessarily includes one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate; (9) (C1-C5)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N,N- dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semiesterification with an N,N- dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers may also include other vinyl comonomers, such as vinylcaprolactam. Among the amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above, the ones that are most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of family (3), such as the copolymers whose INCI name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV 71 or Balance® 47 by the company AkzoNobel and those of family (4) such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate, sold, for example, under the name Diaformer Z-301N or Z-301W by the company Clariant. The total amount of amphoteric fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cationic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5000000 and preferably between 1000 and 3000000.
Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units of the following formulae:
in which: - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; - A is a linear or branched alkyl group including from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and - X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of class (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the class of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with C1- to C4 alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters. Thus, among these copolymers of class (1), mention may be made of: - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc® by the company Hercules, - the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A- 080976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077143 and 2393573, - polymers bearing a fatty chain and bearing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the names Styleze W20L and Styleze W10 by the company ISP, - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, and - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® HS 100 by the company ISP; (2) cationic guar gums, preferably containing quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US patents 3589578 and 4031307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Such products are notably sold under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17 by the company Meyhall. (3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole; (4) chitosans or salts thereof; the salts that may be used are in particular chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate. Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight, sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, and chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol; (5) cationic cellulose derivatives, such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer including a quaternary ammonium and notably described in patent US 4131576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses, grafted notably with a methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch. The total amount of the cationic fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The nonionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: - polyalkyloxazolines; - vinyl acetate homopolymers, - vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate; - homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, for instance copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by the company Röhm GmbH under the name Eudragit® NE 30 D (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer); - copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; - styrene homopolymers; - styrene copolymers, for instance copolymers of styrene, of alkyl acrylate and of alkyl methacrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine; - polyamides; - vinyllactam homopolymers, such as the vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers sold, for example, under the names Luviskol® K30 Powder by the company BASF or PVP K30L or K60 Solution or K90 by the company ISP, or such as the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by the company BASF (INCI name: PVP); - vinyllactam copolymers, such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVP/VA® S630L, E735, E635 and W735 by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64 and VA 37 by the company BASF (INCI name VP/VA copolymer); and vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole terpolymers, for instance the
product sold under the name Luviset® Clear by the company BASF (INCI name VP/methacrylamide/vinyl imidazole copolymer). The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The total content of the nonionic fixing polymer(s), present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Use may also be made, according to the invention, of fixing polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion composed of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain. These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-0412 704, EP-A-0412707, EP-A-0640105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0582152 and WO 93/23009, and patents US 4693935, US 4728571 and US 4972037. These polymers may be amphoteric, cationic, anionic or nonionic and they are preferably anionic or nonionic. Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that may be obtained by free radical polymerization from the monomer mixture formed from: a) 50% to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate, b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid, c) 5% to 40% by weight of a silicone macromer of formula:
in which v is a number ranging from 5 to 700, the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers. Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) to which are grafted mixed polymer units of the poly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate) type via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) to which polymer units of the poly(isobutyl (meth)acrylate) type are grafted via a thiopropylene- type connecting chain.
Grafted silicone polymers are sold, for example, under the names Silicone Plus Polymer® VS80 and VA70 by 3M (INCI names: Polysilicone-8 and Polysilicone- 7, respectively). Another type of silicone fixing polymer that may be mentioned is the product Luviflex® Silk sold by the company BASF (INCI name: PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone/acrylates copolymer). The total amount of fixing polymer(s) of grafted silicone type, when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Functionalized or non-functionalized, silicone or non-silicone, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric polyurethanes or mixtures thereof may also be used as fixing polymers. The polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in patent applications EP 0751162, EP 0637600, EP 0648485 and FR 2 743297, of which the applicant is the proprietor, and also in patent applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 from the company BASF and EP 0 619 111 from the company National Starch. As polyurethanes that are particularly suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Luviset PUR® and Luviset® Si PUR by the company BASF (INCI names: Polyurethane-1 and Polyurethane-6, respectively). The total amount of the polyurethane(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fixing polymers chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof; preferentially chosen from anionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof; and better still chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid or esters thereof, and mixtures thereof. The total amount of the fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more
preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise sodium chloride, in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The anionic surfactants The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more anionic surfactants. The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge. The anionic surfactant(s) (i) may be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used. It is understood in the present description that: - the carboxylate-type anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions; - the sulfonate-type anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 –) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and - the sulfate-type anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions. The carboxylate-type anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition of the invention thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-). They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids,
alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Use may also be made of C6-C30 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C30 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C30 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C30 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof. Preferentially, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - acylglutamates, notably of C6-C30 or even C8-C26, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; - acylsarcosinates, notably of C6-C30 or even C8-C26, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate; - acyllactylates, notably of C6-C30 or even C8-C26, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; - C6-C30 and notably C8-C26 acylglycinates; - (C6-C30)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (C8-C26)alkyl ether carboxylates; - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C30)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts. Among the above carboxylate-type surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of surfactants of fatty acid type, notably of C6-C30. These surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (a) below: R-C(O)-OX (a) with - X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and
- R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of 5 to 29 carbon atoms. Preferably, R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of 7 to 23 carbon atoms, preferably of 11 to 21 carbon atoms. Among the above carboxylate-type surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of surfactants of sarcosinate type, notably chosen from the (C6-C30)acyl sarcosinates of formula (XXXIV) below: R-C(O)-N(CH3)-CH2-C(O)-OX (XXXIV) with - X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and - R denoting a linear or branched alkyl group of 5 to 29 carbon atoms. Preferably, R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Among the (C6-C30)acyl sarcosinates of formula (XXXIV) that may be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoyl sarcosinates, stearoyl sarcosinates, myristoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form. Among the above carboxylate-type surfactants, mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the Akypo names. The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (XXXV): R1-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (XXXV) in which: - R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8- C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably, R1 is a C8-C20 and preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl, - n is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (XXXV), in particular mixtures of compounds bearing different groups R1. The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (XXXV) in which: - R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10. Even more preferentially, use is made of the compounds of formula (XXXV) in which R1 denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10. The sulfonate-type anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition of the invention include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 –). They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, notably lauryl sulfosuccinates; - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 N-acyltaurates; - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (i) are chosen from sulfate-type anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sulfate-type anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant including one or more sulfate functions (-OSO3H or -OSO3-). Such surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds notably including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferentially from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Preferably, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: - alkyl sulfates, notably C8 to C26, and preferably C10 to C22, alkyl sulfates; - alkyl ether sulfates, notably C8 to C26, and preferably C10 to C22, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and mixtures thereof. When the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt, and mixtures thereof. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Preferably, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C10-C22)alkyl sulfates, sodium, ammonium or magnesium (C10-C22)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 or 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
Better still, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, ammonium or magnesium (C10-C22)alkyl sulfates, such as the compound sold under the name Texapon Z95P by the company BASF under the INCI name Sodium lauryl sulfate. Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) (i) are chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate and mixtures thereof. The total content of the anionic surfactant(s) (i), when they are present in the composition of the invention, is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably this total content ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention may also optionally comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds defined above, preferably chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers different from the fixing polymers defined previously, thickeners, silicones different from silicones defined previously, fatty substances different from the fatty substances (v) defined previously, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents, UV-screening agents, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifiers, lubricants (or anticaking agents) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, when the above additional compound(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the additional compound(s) are generally present in a content, for each of them, of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition of the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s). The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7.5 and better still from 3.5 to 7. The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are customarily used. Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, examples which may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid,
orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids. Preferably, the viscosity of the composition may range from 0.1 Pa.s to 4 Pa.s, preferably from 0.5 Pa.s to 2 Pa.s measured at 25°C at a shear rate of 200 tr/min. The viscosity of the composition can be measured with a viscometer (Rheomat Mettler Toledo RM180 Rheomat). The composition may comprise one or more salts, especially sodium chloride. The composition may comprise one or more salts, especially sodium chloride, in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative of the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. Advantageously, the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention has a turbidity less than or equal to 250 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 200 NTU units, and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size of less than or equal to 200 nm, preferably between 1 and 150 nm. Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention has a turbidity less than or equal to 100 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size between 1 and 150 nm, more preferentially between 2 and 100 nm. Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention has a turbidity less than or equal to 100 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size between 2 and 100 nm, more preferentially between 3 and 50 nm. Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention has a turbidity less than or equal to 20 NTU units and is in the form of an oil-in-water
emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size between 4 and 30 nm, more preferentially between 5 and 20 nm. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is of single- phase appearance and comprises: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, (ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iii) one or more propellants, and (iv) water, (v) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, preferably non-silicone fatty substances that are different from nonionic surfactant(s) ; the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of said composition, the weight ratio between the total content of surfactants and the total content of fatty substances (v) is greater than or equal to 1. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is of single- phase appearance and comprises: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, (ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iii) one or more propellants, and (iv) water, (v) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, preferably non-silicone fatty substances that are different from nonionic surfactant(s) ; the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of said composition, the weight ratio between the total content of surfactants and the total content of fatty substances (v) is greater than or equal to 1, the composition having a viscosity ranging from 0.1 Pa.s to 4 Pa.s, preferably from 0.5 Pa.s to 2 Pa.s measured at 25°C at a shear rate of 200 tr/min. A subject of the invention is also an aerosol device comprising:
- a container containing a composition as defined previously, and - a means for spraying said composition. Preferably, the aerosol device according to the invention makes it possible to dispense said composition in foam form. The composition according to the invention is advantageously packaged under pressure, in an aerosol device, for example a monobloc device, which comprises a spraying means and a container. The spraying means is generally formed from a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the composition of the invention is sprayed, preferably in foam form. As an example of an aerosol device that may be used according to the present invention, mention may notably be made of plastic aerosols equipped with a 2×0.51 mm GI valve and a DMPR229 dispenser. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, polymer or metal, and may optionally be coated with a protective varnish coat. Preferably, the container of said aerosol device is transparent, such that the composition according to the invention is visible to the naked eye through said container. A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular a process for the washing and/or conditioning, of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined previously, this application optionally being followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time. Thus, a subject of the present invention is also a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined previously, this application optionally being followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time. Preferably, the application of the composition according to the invention is followed by rinsing. The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin materials. It is preferably applied to wet keratin materials. On conclusion of the process, the keratin materials may optionally be dried or left to dry.
In the present invention, the term “keratin materials” denotes the skin and the scalp, and keratin fibres in particular such as the hair. More preferably, the keratin material is hair. When the composition of the invention comprises one or more fixing polymers, the cosmetic treatment process of the invention is preferably a process for the styling, i.e. the shaping and/or fixing, of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair. When the cosmetic treatment process is a styling process, the application of the composition according to the invention is preferably not followed by rinsing. In a first embodiment of the styling process according to the invention, the composition is applied to wet hair. In a second embodiment of the styling process according to the invention, the composition is applied to dry hair. The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Examples I. Example 1 a. Preparation of the formulations Formulations A1 and A2 according to the invention and comparative formulation B1 below were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (as weight percentage of active material). [Table 1]
b. Protocol The formulation juices of compositions A1, A2 and B1 are prepared beforehand from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 above before introducing the propellants (i.e. the isobutane/propane/butane mixture). In other words, the formulation juices do not comprise any propellants. The formulation juices A1 and A2 thus obtained are transparent and of single- phase appearance, whereas the formulation juice B1 has a two-phase appearance. The turbidity and particle size measurements of the single-phase formulation juices A1 and A2 were performed before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the compositions. The turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent. The number-average size of the oil drops in the formulation juices A1 and A2 was determined via the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS machine from Malvern Instruments.
c. Results The results obtained for each of the formulation juices A1 and A2 are expressed in the table below. [Table 2]
The propellants (56/24/20 isobutane/propane/butane mixture) were then added to the formulation juices A1, A2 and B1, in a juice/gas ratio of 95/5. Compositions A1, A2 and B1 thus obtained were then packaged in transparent PET aerosol devices equipped with a DMPR229 dispenser and a 2×0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized. The pressurized compositions A1 and A2 remain single-phase and transparent, whereas the pressurized composition B1 is not transparent. Moreover, the single-phase appearance and the transparency of compositions A1 and A2 are stable over time. In particular, after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C), the appearance of these formulations has not changed. Conversely, two distinct phases form rapidly with an opaque upper phase for the comparative composition B1. This phase distinction becomes more pronounced over time, notably after 24 hours of storage at room temperature. Compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention dispensed by means of the aerosol device make it possible to obtain a uniform, firm and creamy foam which holds well in the hand and is easily and uniformly applied to the entire head of hair. Compositions A1 and A2 also afford good detergency properties in addition to a conditioning effect on the hair thus treated.
Example 2 a. Preparation of the formulation Formulation A3 according to the present invention below was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (as weight percentage of active material). [Table 3]
b. Protocol The formulation juice A3 is prepared beforehand from the ingredients indicated in Table 3 above before introducing the propellants (i.e. the isobutane/propane/butane mixture). In other words, this formulation juice does not comprise any propellants. The formulation juice A3 thus obtained is transparent and of single-phase appearance. The turbidity and particle size measurements of the single-phase formulation juice A3 were performed before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the compositions. The turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent. The number-average size of the oil drops in the formulation juice A3 was determined via the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS machine from Malvern Instruments. c. Results The results obtained for the formulation juice A3 are expressed in the table below.
[Table 4]
The propellants (56/24/20 isobutane/propane/butane mixture) were then added to the formulation juice A3, in a juice/gas ratio of 95/5. Composition A3 thus obtained was then packaged in a transparent PET aerosol device equipped with a DMPR229 dispenser and a 2×0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized. The pressurized composition A3 remains single-phased and transparent. Moreover, this single-phase appearance and its transparency are stable over time. In particular, after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C), the appearance of the composition has not changed. In addition, composition A3 according to the invention dispensed by means of the aerosol device makes it possible to obtain a uniform, firm and creamy foam which holds well in the hand and is easily and uniformly applied to the entire head of hair. This composition A3 also affords good styling properties in addition to a conditioning effect on the hair thus treated. Example 3 a. Preparation of the formulations Formulations L, M and N according to the invention and comparative formulations O, P, Q and R below were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (as weight percentage of active material). [Table 5]
[Table 6]
b. Protocol The formulation juices of compositions L, M and N according to the present invention and comparative formulations O, P, Q and R are respectively prepared beforehand from the ingredients indicated in Tables 5 and 6 above before introducing the propellants (i.e. the isobutane/propane/butane mixture). The turbidity and particle size measurements of the juices were performed before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the compositions. The turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent. The number-average size of the oil drops in the formulation juices was determined via the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS machine from Malvern Instruments. c. Results The results obtained for each of the formulation juices are expressed in the table below. [Table 7]
The propellants (56/24/20 isobutane/propane/butane mixture) were then added to the formulation juices L, M and N according to the present invention and the comparative compositions O, P, Q and R, in a juice/gas ratio of 95/5. The ensued
compositions were then packaged in transparent PET aerosol devices equipped with a DMPR229 dispenser and a 2×0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized. The pressurized compositions L, M and N are of single-phase appearance and transparent, whereas the pressurized compositions O, P, Q and R are not transparent and have two-phase appearance. Moreover, the single-phase appearance and the transparency of compositions L, M and N are stable over time. In particular, after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C), the appearance of these formulations has not changed. Conversely, two distinct phases form rapidly with an opaque upper phase for the comparative compositions O, P, Q and R. This phase distinction becomes more pronounced over time, notably after 24 hours of storage at room temperature. Example 4 a. Preparation of the formulation Formulation W according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (as weight percentage of active material). [Table 8]
b. Protocol The formulation juice of composition W according to the present invention is prepared beforehand from the ingredients indicated in Table 8 above before introducing the propellants (i.e. the isobutane/propane/butane mixture). The turbidity and particle size measurements of the juice were performed before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the composition. The turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer sold by the company Agilent. The number-average size of the oil
drops in the formulation juice was determined via the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS machine from Malvern Instruments. c. Results The results obtained for the formulation juice are expressed in the table below. [Table 9]
The propellants (56/24/20 isobutane/propane/butane mixture) were then added to the formulation juice according to the present invention in a juice/gas ratio of 95/5. The ensued composition was then packaged in transparent PET aerosol devices equipped with a DMPR229 dispenser and a 2×0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized. The pressurized composition is of single-phase and transparent. Moreover, the single-phase appearance and the transparency of composition W is stable over time. In particular, after two months of storage at room temperature (25°C), the appearance of this formulation has not changed.
Claims
CLAIMS 1. Composition of single-phase appearance comprising: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants, (ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iii) one or more propellants, (iv) water and (v) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure ; the weight ratio between the total content of surfactants and the total content of fatty substances (v) is greater than or equal to 1. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant(s) (i) are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl (poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from - the polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of formula (I): R-O-(CH2-CH2-O)n-H (I) in which: R is a linear or branched C8 to C40 alkenyl radical, and n is an integer ranging from 6 to 20; - the alkyl(poly)glycosides of formula (II) below: R1O-(R2O)t(G)v (II) in which: R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group including from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl group includes from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene group including from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a saccharide unit including from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15; - oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, silicone surfactants; and - mixtures thereof;
and more preferentially from oleth-10, polysorbate 80, decyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. 3. Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the nonionic surfactant(s) (i) ranges from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) are chosen from (C8- C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, and preferably from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) ranges from 5% to 40% by weight and preferably from 6% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) (i) and the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5 and more preferentially ranges from 2 to 15. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propellant(s) (iii) are chosen from volatile, optionally halogenated hydrocarbons, dimethyl ether, and mixtures thereof; preferably from dimethyl ether, C3 to C5 alkanes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from C3 to C5 alkanes and
mixtures thereof; and better still from propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the propellant(s) (iii) ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight and more preferentially from 3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content is greater than or equal to 40% by weight, and preferably ranges from 50% to 93% by weight and more preferentially from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substances have a melting point of less than or equal to 28°C at atmospheric pressure, more preferentially are chosen from linear or branched C6 to C16 alkanes, linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, triglycerides, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, silicones, and mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and preferably ranges from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more fixing polymers, preferably chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, amphoteric or zwitterionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, cationic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof, and better still from anionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the turbidity of said composition, measured by turbidimetry at room temperature
(25°C) and atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 250 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 200 NTU units, more preferentially less than or equal to 100 NTU units, better still less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and even more preferentially less than or equal to 20 NTU units. 15. Aerosol device comprising: - a container containing a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims, and - a means for spraying said composition. 16. Aerosol device according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the container is transparent. 17. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14, said application optionally being followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time. 18. Process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14, said application optionally being followed by rinsing after an optional leave-on time.
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FRFR2107087 | 2021-06-30 | ||
FR2107087A FR3124704B1 (en) | 2021-06-30 | 2021-06-30 | Composition with monophasic appearance comprising a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant |
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FR3124704B1 (en) | 2024-02-16 |
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