WO2023275210A1 - Composition comprising 1,3-propanediol and at least one fatty substance, one or more oxidation dyes - Google Patents

Composition comprising 1,3-propanediol and at least one fatty substance, one or more oxidation dyes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023275210A1
WO2023275210A1 PCT/EP2022/068002 EP2022068002W WO2023275210A1 WO 2023275210 A1 WO2023275210 A1 WO 2023275210A1 EP 2022068002 W EP2022068002 W EP 2022068002W WO 2023275210 A1 WO2023275210 A1 WO 2023275210A1
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composition
fatty
chosen
acid
weight
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PCT/EP2022/068002
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French (fr)
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Karl WUNSCH
Julie BRUYERE
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • TITLE Composition comprising 1,3-propanediol and at least one fatty substance, one or more oxidation dyes
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising 1,3-propanediol, at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids in a content as defined below, one or more oxidation dyes.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair, in which the composition as described previously, comprising at least one oxidation dye is applied to said fibres.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • processes for dyeing keratin fibres it is known practice to dye keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes for non-permanent dyeing, or oxidation dye precursors for permanent dyeing.
  • Non-permanent dyeing or direct dyeing consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes. These dyes are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibres. They are applied to the keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out.
  • Some of these dyes may be used under lightening conditions, which enables the production of colourings that are visible on dark hair.
  • This dyeing technique consists in applying to the keratin fibres a composition containing dye precursors such as oxidation bases and couplers. Under the action of an oxidizing agent, these precursors form one or more coloured substances in the hair.
  • the performance of the dyeing compositions may not be entirely satisfactory in terms of dyeing properties such as strength, chromaticity, selectivity or persistence with respect to external agents such as light, perspiration, washing or rubbing.
  • compositions for dyeing keratin fibres in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which is capable of giving good performance, notably in terms of colour build-up, power and chromaticity, while at the same time having low selectivity and good persistence, and which is capable of giving good dyeing, even after a period of storage, and good cosmetic properties, while at the same time having good working qualities.
  • composition comprising:
  • fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids present in a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight and more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • composition according to the invention makes it possible to achieve the above objectives, notably in terms of colour build-up, dyeing power, chromaticity, selectivity, persistence and working qualities.
  • composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain powerful colourings and to lead to good cosmeticity, notably in terms of sheen, suppleness, a more natural feel, a smoother feel, and comfort, while at the same time preserving the integrity of the fibre.
  • composition according to the invention shows good stability, notably on storage.
  • the composition comprises dyes and optionally other compounds in salt form.
  • composition according to the invention When the composition according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing composition, the mixing is quick and easy.
  • the ready-to-use composition has a texture that allows easy distribution on the head of hair.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which a composition is applied to said fibres, comprising:
  • fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids present in a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight and more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances in a total content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances.
  • a liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • a solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • fatty substances means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa), in particular with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight.
  • the fatty substances are different from fatty acids.
  • the fatty substances are particularly different from fatty acids in free form, for instance fatty acids that are not in the form of esters (or fatty acids that are not esterified).
  • the fatty substances do not comprise any carboxylic acid functions -COOH or any carboxylates functions -COO .
  • the fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
  • the fatty substances are different from nonionic surfactants.
  • the fatty substances according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated and are different from nonionic surfactants.
  • the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
  • non-silicone fatty substance refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
  • the fatty substances are non-silicone fatty substances different from nonionic surfactants and are in particular neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
  • liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention may be chosen from Ce to C 1 ⁇ 2 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols and esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • Ce to C ⁇ e liquid hydrocarbons the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
  • the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize
  • fluoro oils they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFF Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or poly alcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters of monoalcohols Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecy
  • ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • the composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids.
  • sugar esters refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides as described below.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate esters
  • monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, - oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
  • the silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicone oils, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity from 5xl0 6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, and preferably lxlO 5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group.
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicone oils that may be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined previously and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, chosen, for example, from amine groups and alkoxy groups.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non volatile.
  • silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold notably under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia
  • decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide
  • Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia
  • cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide.
  • linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0 6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane notably sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones falling within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used. These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group may notably be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from lxlO 5 to 5xl0 2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • organomodified silicones including:
  • substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Coming 929 or 939 by the company Dow Coming.
  • the substituted amine groups are, in particular, Ci to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • the solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 .
  • the solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1- docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
  • these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
  • esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • C9-C26 alkyl palmitates notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate
  • C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate
  • C9-C26 alkyl stearates notably myristyl stearate, cety
  • a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization.
  • the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance.
  • the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non- silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
  • beeswax notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes
  • rice bran wax camauba wax
  • candelilla wax ouricury wax
  • esparto grass wax esparto grass wax
  • berry wax berry wax
  • shellac wax Japan wax and sumac wax
  • montan wax orange wax and lemon wax
  • microcrystalline waxes microcrystalline waxes
  • paraffins and ozokerite poly
  • C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes such as Micro wax HW.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans- isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
  • a wax that may also be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of camauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of camauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
  • camauba microwaxes such
  • the waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral waxes for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax
  • plant waxes for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, camauba wax, can
  • ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
  • ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R ⁇ FXOHjCFXCFhOR ⁇ NHCOR 1 ), in which:
  • R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
  • R 3 denotes a C 15 -C 26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C 1 -C 14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R 3 may also denote a C 15 -C 26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C 16 -C 30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
  • the ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
  • R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids
  • R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical
  • 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol
  • 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane- 1,3- diol 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3,4-triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N- lino
  • the solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from the solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, preferentially chosen from Ce to C 1 ⁇ 2 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, most preferentially liquid petroleum jelly.
  • the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids, as previously defined, is greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the non-silicon fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids, and different from non-ionic surfactants is greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids ranges from 20% to 85% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferentially greater than or equal to 30% by weight, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight and better still greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) ranges from 20% to 85% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises 1,3-propanediol.
  • the total content of 1,3 -propanediol ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight and more preferentially from 2.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more oxidation dyes, as defined below, and optionally one or more alkaline agents.
  • composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more alkaline agents chosen from mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
  • alkaline agent and “basifying agent” are used interchangeably.
  • the mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, l,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
  • alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
  • Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci- C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
  • alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino- 1,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino- 1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • diethanolamine triethanolamine
  • monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
  • diisopropanolamine N,N-dimethylethanolamine
  • 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol triisopropanolamine
  • 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol 3-amino- 1,2-propanedio
  • the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function.
  • Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function.
  • amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocy amine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l -sulfonic acid.
  • Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
  • the alkaline agent(s) that are useful according to the invention are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates, better still from alkanolamines and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates, even better still from monoethanolamine and sodium metasilicate.
  • alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine
  • aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate
  • the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine .
  • the total content of the alkaline agent(s) preferably ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, or even from 4% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the basifying agents are organic.
  • composition according to the invention is free of aqueous ammonia.
  • the composition comprises at least one alkaline agent chosen from alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine
  • the total content of alkanolamine(s) preferably ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, or even from 4% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9.0 and 12.
  • the pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described previously, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes.
  • the dyes oxidation dyes
  • the oxidation dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
  • the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
  • the oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.
  • the oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
  • the addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are notably chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates
  • a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C A alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n- propanol.
  • the solvates are hydrates.
  • para-phenylenediamines examples that may be mentioned include para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3- methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P- hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)
  • para-phenylenediamine para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- g-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-b- acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salt
  • bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines examples that may be mentioned include N,N’-bis ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N’ -bis ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4’ -aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(ethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4 ’ -amino-3 ’ - methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5
  • para-aminophenols examples that may be mentioned include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino- 2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
  • ortho-aminophenols examples that may be mentioned include 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
  • heterocyclic bases examples that may be mentioned include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
  • pyridine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
  • pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or their addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2801 308.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- (morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 3 -aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine-2- carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3 -aminopyrazolo [1,5- a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-
  • pyrimidine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
  • 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a
  • pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole,
  • Use will preferably be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferentially of 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof, solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
  • Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and notably those described in patent application FR-A- 2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3- diamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino- 6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7- dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo [ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)-6,7 - dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4, 5-d
  • Use will preferably be made of 2, 3-diamino-6, 7-dihydro- 1H,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and/or a salt thereof, a solvate thereof, or a solvate of the salts thereof.
  • Heterocyclic bases that will preferentially be used include 4,5-diamino- 1 -(b- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2, 3-diamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l, 2- a]pyrazol-l-one and/or 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol and/or a salt thereof, a solvate thereof, and a solvate of the salts thereof.
  • the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, notably para-toluenediamine, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2-Y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • para-phenylenediamines notably para-toluenediamine, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and
  • composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
  • the oxidation dye(s) may also comprise one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
  • the couplers are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta- aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, and/or solvates of the salts thereof.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3- dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3- aminobenzene, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2- hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxy ethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-( ⁇ -hydiOxycthylamino)-l -mcthoxy benzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido- 1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1 - b - h y dro x y ct
  • the coupler(s) used in the invention are chosen from 1,3- dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4- amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, a-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-4- hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5- ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, and/or the solv
  • the coupler(s) used in the invention are chosen from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4- diamino- l- ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6- chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4 ⁇ -hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2- amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxy ethyl-3, 4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2- amino-5-ethylphenol and l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, the addition salts thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, and/or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • addition salts of the couplers are especially chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates
  • a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
  • a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
  • the solvates are hydrates.
  • the oxidation dyes chosen from couplers are chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P- hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl- 3 ,4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and/or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the coupler(s) are chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, hydroxy ethyl-3, 4-methylenedioxyaniline, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidation dyes chosen from oxidation bases are present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oxidation dyes chosen from couplers are present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oxidation dyes may be present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
  • the dyes the direct dyes
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more direct dyes.
  • direct dye means natural and/or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fibre.
  • the synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyan
  • nitrobenzene direct dyes mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino- 2-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, l-amino-2-nitro-4- bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene, 1- P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1-b- hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene, l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1 - a m i n o - 3 - m c t h y 1 - 4 - b - h y d x y c
  • azo direct dyes examples include: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
  • hydrazono direct dyes mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
  • nitroaryl direct dyes mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3,4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A’-his(2-hydroxycthyl)- 2-nitrophenylenediamine .
  • Triarylmethane direct dyes mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
  • Disperse Red 15 Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds : 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxy anthraquinone, 1 - aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1 - aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5 - b -hydroxy ethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2- aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140,
  • indoamine direct dyes mention may be made of: 2-b- hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis ⁇ -4-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-b- hydroxyethylamino-5-(2-methoxy-4-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’- chloro-4-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’- chloro-4-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’-N-
  • the natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indimbin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
  • ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)- epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5, 6-dihydroxy-2-
  • compositions comprise at least one direct dye
  • they are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oxidation dyes and one or more direct dyes.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents and one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, in particular chosen from oxidation dyes.
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • fatty substances other than fatty acids which are preferentially liquid, in a content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • - 1,3-propanediol - one or more oxidation dyes and optionally one or more alkaline agents, preferably one or more alkaline agents, in particular chosen from alkanolamines.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants.
  • surfactants may be chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof, preferably from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: C0 2 H, COT, S0 3 H, SOT, OSO3H, OSOT, H2PO3, HPO3 , PO3 2 ⁇ , H2PO2, HPO2 , P0 2 2- , POH and PO .
  • anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(Ci-C4)alkyl N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside -polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside- tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants not bearing a sulfate function.
  • mild anionic surfactants mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
  • Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
  • lauryl ether carboxylic acid 4.5 OE
  • the anionic surfactants that may be present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also known as fatty acids, optionally in salified form.
  • fatty acid means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated, nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are neither (poly)oxyethylenated, nor (poly)oxypropylenated. They preferably have the structure R-COOH in which R denotes a linear or branched C 7 -C 29 , preferably C 9 -C 23 and better still C 9 -C 17 alkyl or alkenyl group.
  • the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from unsaturated linear C 10 -C 22 and notably Cio-Cis fatty acids (R is a linear C 9 -C 23 or even C 9 -C 17 alkenyl).
  • Mention may notably be made of lauric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, undecylenic acid, isocetylic acid, isostearic acid, cetylic acid, stearic acid and cetylstearylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • oleic acid will be used.
  • alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof fatty acids are preferably used.
  • nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the present invention are notably described, for example, in the “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116- 178.
  • nonionic surfactants examples include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
  • esters of fatty acids notably of C 8 -C 24 , and preferably C1 6 -C 22 fatty acids, and of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers;
  • They are notably chosen from alcohols different from the fatty alcohols used as fatty substances as previously disclosed, a-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and containing at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.
  • fatty alcohols ethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyg
  • esters of C8-C30 notably C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 fatty acids and of (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, glycerol ethers, may include more than 10 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular from 15 to 200 units, better still from 15 to 100 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units.
  • Esters of a C8-C30 fatty acid, notably a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid, and of (poly )oxy alky lenated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers are preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate containing 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat S® sold by the company Goldschmidt, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat O® sold by the company Goldschmidt, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Varionic LI 13® sold by the company
  • the C8-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate.
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan, such as:
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters notably containing from 2 to 20 OE
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters notably containing from 2 to 20 OE
  • sorbitan and of isostearic acid such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters notably containing from 2 to 20 OE
  • sorbitan and of lauric acid such as PEG- 10 sorbitan laurate
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylene groups (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG-20 sorbitan oleate), - the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 3 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of stearic acid (such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate).
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, C8-C30, notably Cs-24, and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid esters of (poly )oxy alky lenated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, and mixtures thereof, better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides such as: cocoyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cet
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- C 6 )alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci- C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X) preference is given, firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium
  • R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives
  • R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci- C4 alkyl group
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives
  • R14 denotes a methyl group
  • R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo,
  • R16 denotes an alkyl group including approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CFh) 3 -N + (R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);
  • R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups
  • R23 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27, or a hydrogen atom
  • R25 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R28, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29, or a hydrogen atom
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6
  • rl and tl which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1
  • r2 + rl 2
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl 1-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cll- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Cl-C4)alkyl- or (Cl-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Cl-C4)alkyl- or (Cl-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Cl-C4)alkyl- or (Cl-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate.
  • methanesulfonate phosphate, nitrate, tosylate
  • an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate
  • the anion X is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R23 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R26, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, or a hydrogen atom,
  • R25 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R2s, or a hydrogen atom,
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
  • examples that may be mentioned include salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferentially from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, C8-C30, notably C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid esters of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl ether sulfates
  • fatty acids ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols compris
  • the surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition also comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially one or more nonionic surfactants.
  • surfactants preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially one or more nonionic surfactants.
  • the composition comprises one or more surfactants, in particular chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably the total content of surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • surfactants in particular chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof
  • the total content of surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, preferably the total content of surfactants in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • surfactants chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more thickeners.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more thickeners.
  • thickener means an agent which, by virtue of its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increases the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs and preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 .
  • This viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
  • the thickener(s) may notably be chosen from sodium chloride, fatty acid amides obtained from C10-C30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of ethoxylated carboxylic alkyl ether acid), thickening polymers notably chosen from polysaccharides such as cellulose-based polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • thickening polymers notably chosen from polysaccharides such as cellulose-based polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and non
  • the thickening agent is chosen from thickening polysaccharides, preferably guar gums.
  • guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be nonionic or cationic.
  • the unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro- Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • modified nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • hydroxyalkyl groups examples that may be mentioned include hydroxymethyl, hydroxy ethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.
  • nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Meyhall or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.
  • Nonionic guar gums modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, more especially hydroxypropyl, modified with groups including at least one C6-C30 fatty chain are also suitable for use.
  • a nonionic guar gum is used and, among these nonionic guar gums, more particularly guar gums modified with hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • the thickening polysaccharides are chosen from anionic polysaccharides.
  • polysaccharides means polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferentially, the polysaccharides of the invention include between 20 and 100000 monosaccharide units.
  • the anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise any cationic or cationizable groups.
  • the anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
  • the polymers bearing sugar units of the invention may be natural or synthetic.
  • anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as:
  • acacia gum branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • ghatti gum polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid
  • karaya gum polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • gum tragacanth polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose
  • gums derived from algae such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
  • microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pymvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).
  • xanthan gums polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pymvic acid and glucuronic acid
  • gellan gums polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid.
  • microbial gums means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
  • the anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, better still from anionic microbial gums, more preferentially from xanthan gums.
  • the total content of thickeners preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of thickening polysaccharides as defined previously preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the microbial gums as defined previously, when they are present, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the guar gums as defined previously, when they are present, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
  • a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion.
  • a chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
  • a sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electron- donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
  • the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.
  • the salts are in particular alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
  • chelating agents based on carboxylic acids diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2- hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’- bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2- hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NT
  • chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1, 1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-l, 1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1, 1,2- triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
  • DTPMP diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid)
  • E1HTP ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1, 1,2-triphosphonic acid
  • E2HTP ethane-2-hydroxy-l
  • the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
  • organic phosphorus-based derivatives such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.
  • the phosphorus -based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
  • etidronic acid also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
  • DTP A diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
  • EDTA diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • EDDS ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid
  • etidronic acid and salts thereof etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
  • the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N- dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
  • the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent other than 1,3-propanediol.
  • organic solvents examples include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols other than 1,3- propanediol and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • polyols other than 1,3- propanediol and polyol ethers for instance 2-butoxyethanol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether
  • aromatic alcohols or ethers for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition.
  • the composition preferably comprises water in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water content ranges from 15% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 60% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agents.
  • the composition according to the invention is preferably mixed at the time of use with at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • chemical oxidizing agent means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or decolourizing agents) that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with the optional cofactors thereof), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may contain any commonly used adjuvant or additive other than the compounds described previously.
  • additives that may be contained in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV filters, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers other than the thickening polymers described previously, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, and preserving agents.
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which a composition is applied to said fibres, comprising:
  • the dyeing process comprises at least the application of a composition according to the invention comprising one or more oxidation dyes.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants as defined previously, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
  • the dyeing process comprises at least one step of applying a composition as defined previously.
  • the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes and optionally one or more direct dyes.
  • the dyeing process comprises at least the application to said keratin fibres of at least one composition according to the invention comprising one or more oxidation dyes in the presence of one or more chemical oxidizing agents, as defined previously, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined previously, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the dyeing process comprises at least the application of a composition according to the invention comprising:
  • one or more surfactants preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof,
  • one or more oxidizing agents as defined previously, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the dyeing process comprises at least the application to said fibres of a composition obtained by mixing, at the time of use:
  • composition comprising:
  • composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition.
  • it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
  • the oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • the oxidizing composition may also comprise fatty substances such as those described previously, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.
  • the pH of the oxidizing composition when it is aqueous, is less than 7.
  • the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which ranges, more particularly, from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 20% and even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • composition according to the invention may be used on wet or dry keratin fibres, and also on any type of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent-waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.
  • the fibres are washed before applying the composition described above.
  • the colouring process i.e. the application of the dye composition to the keratin fibres, is generally performed at room temperature (between 15 and 25 °C).
  • composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres for a leave-on time ranging from 30 to 60 minutes.
  • the keratin fibres may optionally be washed with a shampoo and/or rinsed with water.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously, comprising at least one oxidation dye for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the present invention also relates to a ready-to-use composition, as defined above, comprising:
  • the invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention as described above and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • composition A2 and comparative compositions A1 and A3 were prepared using the ingredients described in the table below:
  • each of the compositions A1 to A3 is mixed with 1 times its weight of oxidizing agent Cl (g%).
  • Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of natural hair containing 90% white hairs, at a rate of 10 grams of mixture per gram of hair.
  • Colorimetric measurements were taken using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular components included) in the CIELab system.
  • L* represents the lightness: the lower the value of L*, the stronger the colouring obtained.
  • Composition A2 according to the invention comprising 1,3 -propanediol leads to a lower L* value, thus to more powerful, more intense colouring compared to the comparative compositions A1 and A3 comprising propylene glycol or without 1,3 -propanediol, respectively.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising 1,3-propanediol, at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids in a content as defined below, one or more oxidation dyes. The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair, in which the composition as described previously, and comprising at least one oxidation dye, is applied to said fibres. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair.

Description

DESCRIPTION
TITLE: Composition comprising 1,3-propanediol and at least one fatty substance, one or more oxidation dyes
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising 1,3-propanediol, at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids in a content as defined below, one or more oxidation dyes. The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair, in which the composition as described previously, comprising at least one oxidation dye is applied to said fibres.
A subject of the present invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair. In processes for dyeing keratin fibres, it is known practice to dye keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes for non-permanent dyeing, or oxidation dye precursors for permanent dyeing.
Non-permanent dyeing or direct dyeing consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes. These dyes are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibres. They are applied to the keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out.
Some of these dyes may be used under lightening conditions, which enables the production of colourings that are visible on dark hair.
It is also known practice to dye keratin fibres permanently via oxidation dyeing. This dyeing technique consists in applying to the keratin fibres a composition containing dye precursors such as oxidation bases and couplers. Under the action of an oxidizing agent, these precursors form one or more coloured substances in the hair.
The performance of the dyeing compositions may not be entirely satisfactory in terms of dyeing properties such as strength, chromaticity, selectivity or persistence with respect to external agents such as light, perspiration, washing or rubbing.
Thus, there is a real need for a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which is capable of giving good performance, notably in terms of colour build-up, power and chromaticity, while at the same time having low selectivity and good persistence, and which is capable of giving good dyeing, even after a period of storage, and good cosmetic properties, while at the same time having good working qualities.
One subject of the present invention is thus a composition comprising:
- one or more fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids, present in a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight and more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 1,3-propanediol,
- one or more oxidation dyes.
The composition according to the invention makes it possible to achieve the above objectives, notably in terms of colour build-up, dyeing power, chromaticity, selectivity, persistence and working qualities.
The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain powerful colourings and to lead to good cosmeticity, notably in terms of sheen, suppleness, a more natural feel, a smoother feel, and comfort, while at the same time preserving the integrity of the fibre.
Moreover, the composition according to the invention shows good stability, notably on storage. The composition comprises dyes and optionally other compounds in salt form.
When the composition according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing composition, the mixing is quick and easy.
The ready-to-use composition has a texture that allows easy distribution on the head of hair.
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which a composition is applied to said fibres, comprising:
- one or more fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids, present in a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight and more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 1,3-propanediol,
- one or more oxidation dyes,
- optionally one or more alkaline agents. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
Fatty substances other than fatty acids
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances in a total content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa). A solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
In other words, the term “fatty substances” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa), in particular with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight.
The fatty substances are different from fatty acids.
In other words, the fatty substances are particularly different from fatty acids in free form, for instance fatty acids that are not in the form of esters (or fatty acids that are not esterified).
Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise any carboxylic acid functions -COOH or any carboxylates functions -COO .
The fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
In particular, the fatty substances are different from nonionic surfactants.
Preferably, the fatty substances according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated and are different from nonionic surfactants.
Preferably, the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
Preferably, the fatty substances are non-silicone fatty substances different from nonionic surfactants and are in particular neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention may be chosen from Ce to C½ liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
As regards the Ce to C\e liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFF Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or poly alcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides as described below.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate esters
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, - oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
The silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicone oils, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity from 5xl06 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C, and preferably lxlO 5 to 1 m2/s. Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group.
These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils that may be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined previously and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, chosen, for example, from amine groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold notably under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl06 m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane notably sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones falling within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used. These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60000 mm2/s;
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.
The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
As regards the liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group, they may notably be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from lxlO 5 to 5xl02 m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes including:
- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Coming 929 or 939 by the company Dow Coming. The substituted amine groups are, in particular, Ci to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxy groups,
- hydroxyl groups.
The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1.
The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1- docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non- silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
Mention may also be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Micro wax HW.
Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans- isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
A wax that may also be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of camauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of camauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R^FXOHjCFXCFhOR^NHCOR1), in which:
R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid. The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon- based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane- 1,3- diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3,4-triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N- cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from the solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, preferentially chosen from Ce to C½ liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, most preferentially liquid petroleum jelly. The total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids, as previously defined, is greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total content of the non-silicon fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids, and different from non-ionic surfactants, is greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids ranges from 20% to 85% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferentially greater than or equal to 30% by weight, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight and better still greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) ranges from 20% to 85% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
1,3 -Propanediol
The composition according to the invention also comprises 1,3-propanediol.
Advantageously, the total content of 1,3 -propanediol ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight and more preferentially from 2.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more oxidation dyes, as defined below, and optionally one or more alkaline agents.
Alkaline agent The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more alkaline agents chosen from mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used interchangeably.
The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, l,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci- C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino- 1,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino- 1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocy amine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l -sulfonic acid.
Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
The alkaline agent(s) that are useful according to the invention are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates, better still from alkanolamines and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates, even better still from monoethanolamine and sodium metasilicate.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine .
When the composition comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of the alkaline agent(s) preferably ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, or even from 4% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the basifying agents are organic.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of aqueous ammonia.
When the composition comprises at least one alkaline agent chosen from alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine, the total content of alkanolamine(s) preferably ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, or even from 4% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9.0 and 12. The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described previously, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
The dyes
The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes.
The dyes: oxidation dyes
The oxidation dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.
The oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are notably chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to CA alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n- propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
Among the para-phenylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned include para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3- methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P- hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2- chloroaniline, 2^-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-Y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine; 2-fluoro-para- phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N - ( b - h y d ro x y p ro p y 1 ) - p a r a - phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3- methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’-aminophenyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, 2^-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b- methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4’- aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- g-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2^-hydroxyethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-b- acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof are particularly preferred.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned include N,N’-bis^-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N’ -bis^-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4’ -aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(ethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4 ’ -amino-3 ’ - methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the para-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino- 2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the ortho-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the heterocyclic bases, examples that may be mentioned include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or their addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- (morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 3 -aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine-2- carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3 -aminopyrazolo [1,5- a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2- yl)methanol, 3 ,6-diaminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3 ,4-diaminopyrazolo [1,5- a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3, 7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3, 5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4- yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2- hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2- hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3 -aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3 - aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol and 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2- yl)oxyethanol, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole,
4.5-diamino- l-(4’-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -methyl-3 -phenylpyrazole, 4- amino- 1 ,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4, 5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole,
4.5-diamino-3-tert-butyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-tert-butyl-3- methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1- ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5- diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -hydro xymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l- methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole,
3.4.5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3, 5-diamino- l-methyl-4- methylaminopyrazole and 3, 5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino- 1-methylpyrazole, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino- l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
Use will preferably be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferentially of 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof, solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and notably those described in patent application FR-A- 2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3- diamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino- 6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7- dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo [ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)-6,7 - dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4, 5-diamino- 1,2-dimethyl- 1,2- dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4, 5-diamino- 1, 2-diethyl- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5- diamino- l,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2- hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- dimethylamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino- 5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino- l,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin- 1-yl)- 1, 2-diethyl- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and solvates of the salts thereof.
Use will preferably be made of 2, 3-diamino-6, 7-dihydro- 1H,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and/or a salt thereof, a solvate thereof, or a solvate of the salts thereof.
Heterocyclic bases that will preferentially be used include 4,5-diamino- 1 -(b- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2, 3-diamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l, 2- a]pyrazol-l-one and/or 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol and/or a salt thereof, a solvate thereof, and a solvate of the salts thereof.
Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, notably para-toluenediamine, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2-Y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
The oxidation dye(s) may also comprise one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
Preferably, the couplers are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta- aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, and/or solvates of the salts thereof.
Examples that may be mentioned include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3- dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3- aminobenzene, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2- hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxy ethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(^-hydiOxycthylamino)-l -mcthoxy benzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido- 1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1 - b - h y dro x y ct h y 1 a m i no- 3 ,4- methylenedioxybenzene, a-naphthol, 2-methyl- 1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4- hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 5-methoxy-6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1- N-(P-hydiOxycthyl)amino-3,4-mcthylcncdioxy benzene, 2,6-bi s(p- hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2- chloro-3,5-diaminopyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-chloro-3,5- diamino-6-methylpyridine, l-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1 -phenyl-3 -methylpyrazol-5- one, 4-(3,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl)-l-(2-hydroxyethyl)-l-methylpiperazin-l-ium chloride, 2, 6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]- 1,2, 4-triazole, 2,4,6-trimethoxyaniline hydrochloride, 2, 6-dimethyl[3,2-c]- 1,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5- a]benzimidazole and 2,6-diaminopyrazine, the addition salts thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, and/or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the coupler(s) used in the invention are chosen from 1,3- dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4- amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, a-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-4- hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5- ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, and/or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the coupler(s) used in the invention are chosen from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4- diamino- l-^-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6- chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4^-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2- amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxy ethyl-3, 4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2- amino-5-ethylphenol and l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, the addition salts thereof, and/or the solvates thereof, and/or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are especially chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
Preferably, the oxidation dyes chosen from couplers are chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P- hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl- 3 ,4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof, and/or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Better still, the coupler(s) are chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, hydroxy ethyl-3, 4-methylenedioxyaniline, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, when they are present, the oxidation dyes chosen from oxidation bases are present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, when they are present, the oxidation dyes chosen from couplers are present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the oxidation dyes may be present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof. The dyes: the direct dyes
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more direct dyes.
The term “direct dye” means natural and/or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fibre.
The synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino- 2-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, l-amino-2-nitro-4- bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene, 1- P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1-b- hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene, l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1 - a m i n o - 3 - m c t h y 1 - 4 - b - h y d ro x y c t h y 1 a m i n o - 6 - nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4^-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene, 1 ,2- diamino-4-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2^-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, l,2-bis^- hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5- nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-amino-4- nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6- dinitrobenzene, l^-hydroxyethyloxy-2^-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1- methoxy-2-b-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, l^-hydroxyethyloxy-3- methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, l^,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4- nitrobenzene, l-b-hydroxyethylamino-4-b,g-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene, 1- b,g-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-b- hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, l^-hydroxyethylamino-3- methyl-2-nitrobenzene, l^-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy- 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-6-bis^-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene, l-b-hydroxyethylamino-2- nitrobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-4-b-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3,4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A’-his(2-hydroxycthyl)- 2-nitrophenylenediamine .
Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds : 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxy anthraquinone, 1 - aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1 - aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5 - b -hydroxy ethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2- aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic
Red 2.
Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-b- hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis^-4-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-b- hydroxyethylamino-5-(2-methoxy-4-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’- chloro-4-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’- chloro-4-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’-N-
(ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.
The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indimbin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)- epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5, 6-dihydroxy-2-methyl- 1,4- naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
When the composition comprises at least one direct dye, they are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
The direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes.
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oxidation dyes and one or more direct dyes.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents and one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, in particular chosen from oxidation dyes.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, which are preferentially liquid, in a content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 1,3-propanediol, - one or more oxidation dyes and optionally one or more alkaline agents, preferably one or more alkaline agents, in particular chosen from alkanolamines.
Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants. These surfactants may be chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof, preferably from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.
Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
The term “ anionic surfactant ” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: C02H, COT, S03H, SOT, OSO3H, OSOT, H2PO3, HPO3 , PO32·, H2PO2, HPO2 , P02 2-, POH and PO .
As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(Ci-C4)alkyl N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D- galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; fatty acid salts, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless specified otherwise) generally including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside -polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside- tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may notably be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants not bearing a sulfate function.
As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
The anionic surfactants that may be present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also known as fatty acids, optionally in salified form.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty acid” means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
The carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated, nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are neither (poly)oxyethylenated, nor (poly)oxypropylenated. They preferably have the structure R-COOH in which R denotes a linear or branched C7-C29, preferably C9-C23 and better still C9-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group.
Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from unsaturated linear C10-C22 and notably Cio-Cis fatty acids (R is a linear C9-C23 or even C9-C17 alkenyl).
Mention may notably be made of lauric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, undecylenic acid, isocetylic acid, isostearic acid, cetylic acid, stearic acid and cetylstearylic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid will be used.
Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof, fatty acids are preferably used.
The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the present invention are notably described, for example, in the “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116- 178.
Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
- oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol;
- esters of fatty acids, notably of C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22 fatty acids, and of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers;
- fatty acid esters of sucrose;
- (Cs-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (Cs-C3o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (Cs-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;
- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide;
- V-iCs-Ciolalkylglucaminc and A-iCs-Ciolacylmcthylglucaminc derivatives; - amine oxides.
They are notably chosen from alcohols different from the fatty alcohols used as fatty substances as previously disclosed, a-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and containing at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cio-Ci4 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
The esters of C8-C30, notably C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 fatty acids and of (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, glycerol ethers, may include more than 10 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular from 15 to 200 units, better still from 15 to 100 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units.
Esters of a C8-C30 fatty acid, notably a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid, and of (poly )oxy alky lenated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers are preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate containing 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat S® sold by the company Goldschmidt, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat O® sold by the company Goldschmidt, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Varionic LI 13® sold by the company Sherex, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat L® sold by the company Goldschmidt, and polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat I® from the company Goldschmidt.
The C8-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate.
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-21),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-20),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-40),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-60),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-61),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-80),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 OE) (Polysorbate-81),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-65),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-85).
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan, such as:
- the ester polyoxyethylenated with 20 OE of sorbitan and of cocoic acid (PEG-20 sorbitan cocoate);
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of lauric acid (such as PEG- 10 sorbitan laurate),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylene groups (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG-20 sorbitan oleate), - the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 3 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of stearic acid (such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate).
The nonionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, C8-C30, notably Cs-24, and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid esters of (poly )oxy alky lenated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, and mixtures thereof, better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides such as: cocoyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside.
The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may notably be mentioned include:
- those corresponding to the general formula (X) below:
Figure imgf000034_0001
in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci- C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given, firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (XI) below:
Figure imgf000035_0001
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci- C4 alkyl group, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo,
- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XII) below:
Figure imgf000036_0001
in which R16 denotes an alkyl group including approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CFh)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);
- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (XIII) below:
Figure imgf000036_0002
in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27, or a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R28, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29, or a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is an organic or inorganic simple or complex anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl 1-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cll- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Cl-C4)alkyl- or (Cl-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
The anion X is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R26, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, or a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R2s, or a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear. Among the compounds of formula (XIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferentially from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, C8-C30, notably C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid esters of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition also comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially one or more nonionic surfactants.
When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, in particular chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably the total content of surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, preferably the total content of surfactants in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thickener
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more thickeners.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more thickeners.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “thickener” means an agent which, by virtue of its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increases the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs and preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1. This viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
The thickener(s) may notably be chosen from sodium chloride, fatty acid amides obtained from C10-C30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of ethoxylated carboxylic alkyl ether acid), thickening polymers notably chosen from polysaccharides such as cellulose-based polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from thickening polysaccharides, preferably guar gums.
The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be nonionic or cationic.
According to the invention, use may be made of chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums.
The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro- Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie.
The modified nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, examples that may be mentioned include hydroxymethyl, hydroxy ethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.
Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Meyhall or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon. Nonionic guar gums modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, more especially hydroxypropyl, modified with groups including at least one C6-C30 fatty chain are also suitable for use. As examples of such compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Esaflor HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18® (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1® (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
Preferably, a nonionic guar gum is used and, among these nonionic guar gums, more particularly guar gums modified with hydroxyalkyl groups.
According to one embodiment, the thickening polysaccharides are chosen from anionic polysaccharides.
The term “ polysaccharides ” means polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferentially, the polysaccharides of the invention include between 20 and 100000 monosaccharide units.
The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise any cationic or cationizable groups.
The anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
The polymers bearing sugar units of the invention may be natural or synthetic.
According to a particular embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as:
• tree or shrub exudates, for instance: acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
• gums derived from algae, such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
• microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pymvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid). For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ microbial gums” means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, better still from anionic microbial gums, more preferentially from xanthan gums.
When they are present, the total content of thickeners preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the total content of thickening polysaccharides as defined previously preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The total content of the microbial gums as defined previously, when they are present, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The total content of the guar gums as defined previously, when they are present, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Sequestrants
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electron- donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
Within the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.
The salts are in particular alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2- hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’- bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2- hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N- carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3- sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N’-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N’-diacetic acid, and aspartic acid-N- monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDS A) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from AkzoNobel.
The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1, 1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-l, 1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1, 1,2- triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid. According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
- inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
- organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.
The phosphorus -based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds. Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
According to the present invention, the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N- dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
When the composition comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Solvents
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent other than 1,3-propanediol.
Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols other than 1,3- propanediol and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In addition, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. The composition preferably comprises water in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the water content ranges from 15% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 60% by weight.
Chemical oxidizing agents
The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agents.
According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention is preferably mixed at the time of use with at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or decolourizing agents) that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with the optional cofactors thereof), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Preferably, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Additives
The composition according to the invention may contain any commonly used adjuvant or additive other than the compounds described previously.
Among the additives that may be contained in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV filters, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers other than the thickening polymers described previously, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, and preserving agents.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which a composition is applied to said fibres, comprising:
- one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, in a content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 1,3-propanediol,
- one or more oxidation dyes.
In other words, the dyeing process comprises at least the application of a composition according to the invention comprising one or more oxidation dyes.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants as defined previously, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
In particular, the dyeing process comprises at least one step of applying a composition as defined previously.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair. Thus, preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes and optionally one or more direct dyes.
Preferably, the dyeing process comprises at least the application to said keratin fibres of at least one composition according to the invention comprising one or more oxidation dyes in the presence of one or more chemical oxidizing agents, as defined previously, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Preferably, the dyeing process comprises at least the application of a composition according to the invention comprising:
- one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, in a content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 1,3-propanediol,
- one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof,
- one or more oxidation dyes, as defined previously,
- optionally one or more alkaline agents, as defined previously,
- one or more oxidizing agents as defined previously, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
According to a particular embodiment, the dyeing process comprises at least the application to said fibres of a composition obtained by mixing, at the time of use:
• at least one composition, as defined above, comprising:
- one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, in a content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 1,3-propanediol,
- one or more oxidation dyes, as defined previously,
- optionally one or more alkaline agents, as defined previously,
• at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids. The oxidizing composition may also comprise fatty substances such as those described previously, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.
Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7.
Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which ranges, more particularly, from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 20% and even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
The composition according to the invention may be used on wet or dry keratin fibres, and also on any type of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent-waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.
According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the fibres are washed before applying the composition described above.
The application of the composition of the invention to the keratin fibres may be performed via any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush or a coarse brush.
The colouring process, i.e. the application of the dye composition to the keratin fibres, is generally performed at room temperature (between 15 and 25 °C).
The composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres for a leave-on time ranging from 30 to 60 minutes.
After applying the composition according to the invention, the keratin fibres may optionally be washed with a shampoo and/or rinsed with water.
The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously, comprising at least one oxidation dye for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
The present invention also relates to a ready-to-use composition, as defined above, comprising:
- one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, in a content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 1,3-propanediol, - one or more oxidation dyes, as defined previously,
- optionally one or more alkaline agents, as defined previously,
- one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined previously, preferably hydrogen peroxide. The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention as described above and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Examples
Composition A2 and comparative compositions A1 and A3 were prepared using the ingredients described in the table below:
[Table 1]
Figure imgf000051_0001
At the time of use, each of the compositions A1 to A3 is mixed with 1 times its weight of oxidizing agent Cl (g%). [Table 21
Figure imgf000052_0001
Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of natural hair containing 90% white hairs, at a rate of 10 grams of mixture per gram of hair.
After a leave-on time of 35 minutes on a thermostatically controlled plate at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.
Colorimetric measurements were taken using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular components included) in the CIELab system.
L* represents the lightness: the lower the value of L*, the stronger the colouring obtained.
Power L*
Figure imgf000052_0002
Composition A2 according to the invention comprising 1,3 -propanediol leads to a lower L* value, thus to more powerful, more intense colouring compared to the comparative compositions A1 and A3 comprising propylene glycol or without 1,3 -propanediol, respectively.

Claims

1. Composition comprising: - one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, in a content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- 1,3 -propanediol,
- one or more oxidation dyes.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the fatty substances other than fatty acids are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances and mixtures thereof; preferably from liquid fatty substances.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids are liquid fatty substances chosen from C6-Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non- silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably liquid petroleum jelly.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of fatty substances other than fatty acids is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight and more preferentially greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of 1,3 -propanediol ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight and more preferentially from 2.
5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more alkaline agents, preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates, better still from alkanolamines and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates, even better still from monoethanolamine and sodium metasilicate, better still monoethanolamine.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactants are nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from:
- oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol;
- esters of fatty acids, notably of C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22 fatty acids, and of (poly )oxy alky lenated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers;
- fatty acid esters of sucrose;
- (Cs-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (Cs-C3o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (Cs-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;
- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide;
- V-iCs-Ciojalkylglucaminc and V-iCs-Csojacylmcthylglucaminc derivatives;
- amine oxides,
- and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with the possible cofactors thereof), and mixtures thereof; preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially hydrogen peroxide.
11. Process for dyeing keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 10.
12. Process according to Claim 11, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to said fibres of a composition obtained by mixing, at the time of use:
• at least one composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 9,
• at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined according to Claim 10.
13. Use of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
14. Multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 and at least a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined according to Claim 10.
PCT/EP2022/068002 2021-06-30 2022-06-29 Composition comprising 1,3-propanediol and at least one fatty substance, one or more oxidation dyes WO2023275210A1 (en)

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