WO2022246734A1

WO2022246734A1 - An anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2022246734A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/096350
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yawen Liu; Tu LUAN
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-05-27
Filing date: 2021-05-27
Publication date: 2022-12-01
Also published as: FR3123214A1; CN117396186A; FR3123214B1

Abstract

An anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprises a) no less than 5 wt. % of coconut oil, relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates); and c) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan. A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprises applying the anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

Description

AN ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR AND/OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

BACKGROUND

It is well known that coconut oil has lots of benefits on keratin materials such as the skin. For example, it is commonly used to nourish the hair. Thus there are many cosmetic products comprising coconut oil developed in the art.

For example, EP3622946B1 discloses cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the hair and the scalp comprising extracts of aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and coconut fruit (Cocos nucifera) .

EP1231892B1 discloses a dermo-cosmetic skin care composition comprising inter alia rice starch, coconut oil and karite butter, which is capable of nourishing the cells and tissues of the skin.

CLEAR SCALP&HAIR BEAUTY THERAPY INTENSE

shampoo from UNILEVER which includes, among other things, powder from aloe vera leaves (Aloe barbadensis) , coconut oil (Cocos nucifera) , as well as at least one cationic surfactant, a sulfur-containing surfactant (TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate, TEA-sulfate) and an anionic gelling agent.

365 EVERYDAY VALUE CITRUS

shampoo from WHOLE FOODS MARKET which includes juice from aloe vera leaves (Aloe barbadensis) , coconut oil (Cocos nucifera) , as well as at least one cationic surfactant, asulfur-containing surfactant (isethionate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine) and an anionic gelling agent.

However, when coconut oil is present at a relatively higher concentration, it is very easy to crystallize (i.e. appear on the surface of the product comprising it) at a temperature below room temperature (RT=25℃) , which brings the issue on usage of coconut oil in cosmetic product.

Thus there is a need to develop a cosmetic product comprising a relatively higher concentration of coconut oil, which shows good stability, i.e. coconut oil contained therein would not obviously appear on the surface of the product even at a temperature below room temperature.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is thus to develop a cosmetic product comprising a relatively higher concentration of coconut oil, which shows good stability, i.e. coconut oil contained therein would not obviously appear on the surface of the product even at a temperature below room temperature.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

Thus, accordingto a first aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising,

a) no less than 5 wt. %of coconut oil, relative to the total weight of the composition;

b) at least one thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) ; and

c) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising applying the anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

The anhydrous composition according to the present invention has good stability. In other words, the crystallization degree of coconut oil is no more than 50%, i.e. coconut oil will appear on no more than 50%of surface area of the composition after 15 g of the composition being still in a container with an inside cross-section area of 13.8 cm ² for 10 days.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, wherein:

Fig. 1 shows a photo of the composition of invention example 1 after put in an isothermal oven at 18℃ for 10 days.

Fig. 2 shows a photo of the composition of invention example 2 after put in an isothermal oven at 18℃ for 10 days.

Fig. 3 shows a photo of the composition of comparative example 1 after put in an isothermal oven at 18℃ for 10 days.

Fig. 4 shows a photo of the composition of comparative example 2 after put in an isothermal oven at 18℃ for 10 days.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... " .

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2 wt. %and preferably less than 0.5 wt. %of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and hair.

The anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials according to the present invention comprises:

Coconut oil

According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises coconut oil.

Coconut oil is made from the meat of mature coconuts. Coconut oil is 100%fat, 80-90%of which is saturated fat. Fat is made up of smaller molecules called fatty acids, and there are several types of saturated fatty acids in coconut oil. The predominant type is lauric acid (47%) , with myristic and palmitic acids present in smaller amounts. Also present in trace amounts are monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats.

As an example of commercial product of coconut oil, mention can be made of that available as NEUTRESCA 51-25 from the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN.

Advantageously, coconut oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, more preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickeners

According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) .

Poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) can be obtained by the polymerization of at least one monomer selected from C ₁₀ to C ₁₈ alkyl (meth) acrylates, which may be represented by the formula below:

in which R ₁ is H or CH ₃, R represents a C ₁₀ to C ₁₈ alkyl group and X represents O.

These polymers are of any nature, provided that they meet the conditions mentioned hereinbelow with, in particular, the characteristic of being soluble or dispersible in the liquid fatty phase, by heating above their melting point. They may result from the polymerization, especially the free-radical polymerization, of one or more monomers containing reactive or ethylenic double bond (s) with respect to a polymerization.

These polymers may especially have a molecular weight ranging from 15 000 to 500 000 and preferably from 80 000 to 200 000.

Preferably, the thickener is selected from poly (C16-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) .

In particular, the thickener that is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the present invention may be poly (stearyl acrylate) . Poly (stearyl acrylate) can be obtained by polymerization of stearyl acrylate.

Advantageously, the weight-average molecular weight Mw of poly (stearyl acrylate) ranges from 15 000 g/mol to 500 000 g/mol, and preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 200 000 g/mol, more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 200 000 g/mol.

As an example of commercial product of poly (stearyl acrylate) , mention can be made of that available as

IP A 13-1 from the company Air Products and Chemicals or Landec, which has a molecular weight of about 145000 g/mol and a melting point of 49℃.

Advantageously, thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-ionic surfactants

According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan.

The esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan are formed by esterification, with sorbitol, of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear alkyl or alkenyl chain respectively having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These esters can be selected in particular from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates or oleates, and their mixtures.

The ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45℃.

As examples of sorbitan ester which can be used in the composition according to the invention, Mention may be made of:

-sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60,

-sorbitan tristearate sold by Croda under the name Span 65 V,

-sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40,

-sorbitan monooleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V; and

-sorbitan trioleate sold by Uniqema under the name Span 85V.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monooleate, and sorbitan trioleate. More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is sorbitan trioleate.

Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty compound (s)

Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises a pasty compound.

It was found by the inventors that a pasty compound has good water-locking effect prospective, and can boost the hydration effect for the keratin material.

The term “pasty compound” used herein is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and comprising, at a temperature of 23℃, aliquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23℃. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23℃, represents 9 wt. %to 97 wt. %of the composition. This liquid fraction at 23℃ preferably represents between 15 wt.%and 85 wt. %, more preferably between 40 wt. %and 85 wt. %.

The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis" .

The measurement protocol is as follows.

A sample of 5 mg of pasty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from-20℃ to 100℃, at a heating rate of 10℃/minute, is then cooled from 100℃ to-20℃ at a cooling rate of 10℃/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from-20℃ to 100℃ at a heating rate of 5℃/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23℃ is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23℃ to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion (expressed in J/g) of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The heat of fusion consumed at 23℃ is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 2℃, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5℃ or 10℃ per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32℃ preferably represents from 30%to 100%by weight of the pasty compound, preferably from 50%to 100%and more preferably from 60%to 100%by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32℃ is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32℃.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32℃ is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32℃ to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32℃ is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23℃.

The pasty compound (s) may in particular be selected from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin. The pasty compound (s) may be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.

The pasty compound (s) may be selected in particular from:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,

- petroleum jelly (also known as petrolatum) ,

- polyol ethers selected from C ₂-C ₄ polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) , polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46%PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46%PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8%soybean oil,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

- vinyl polymers, especially:

ο olefin homopolymers and copolymers,

ο hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

ο linear or branched oligomers, which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably containing a C ₈-C ₃₀ alkyl group,

ο oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C ₈-C ₃₀ alkyl groups, and

ο oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C ₈-C ₃₀ alkyl groups,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C ₂-C ₁₀₀ and preferably C ₂-C ₅₀ diols. Among the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly considered are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C ₆-C ₃₀ long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5: 95 to 70: 30. In this family, mention will be made especially of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks with an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel,

- esters and polyesters. Among the esters, the following are especially considered:

ο esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C20, optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids, and/or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C10 dicarboxylic acids, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of diglycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for instance bis- diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the reference

649 by the company CREMER OLEO (IOI) ,

ο vinyl ester homopolymers bearing C ₈-C ₃₀ alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex) ,

ο the arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,

ο phytosterol esters,

ο fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, in particular optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially) , optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, C ₆-C ₃₀ and more particularly C ₈-C ₁₈, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid triglycerides; for example Softisan

sold by the company Sasol,

ο pentaerythritol esters,

ο aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. More particularly, the aliphatic carboxylic acid is of C ₄-C ₃₀ and preferably of C ₈-C ₃₀. It is preferably selected from hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoic, tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecenoic, hexyldecanoic, heptadecanoic, octadecanoic, isostearic, nonadecanoic, eicosanoic, isoarachidic, octyldodecanoic, heneicosanoic and docosanoic acids, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a C ₂-C ₄₀, preferably C ₁₀-C ₃₄ and even more preferentially C ₁₂-C ₂₈ hydroxylated carboxylic acid; the number of hydroxyl groups being between 1 and 20, more particularly between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1 and 6.

ο esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function (s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be selected especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G) , phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) , and mixtures thereof,

ο hydrogenated esters of rosin (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical) ;

- butters of plant origin, such as mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference

by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara) , murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara) , cocoa butter; babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure Babassu SS- (LK) by Croda, and also orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

- totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference

by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) , the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference

partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

- hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil,

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the pasty compound (s) used in the invention are selected from esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C20, optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids, and/or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C ₆-C ₁₀ dicarboxylic acids, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of diglycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, more preferably, the past compound is bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.

Preferably, if presents, the pasty compound is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional oil (s)

Optionally, the composition according to the present invention further comprises an additional oil.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .

As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The additional oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, asilicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, canola oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄-C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁-C ₂₂ alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C ₄-C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, isostearate, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) , pentaerythrithyl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate) , pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate) (or caprylic/capric triglyceride) , and glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate/linolenate) .

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point of between 60℃ and 260℃, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms; and

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ²/s at 25℃.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA) , such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

The hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

-linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C ₆-C ₁₆ lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

-linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as

and squalane.

As examples of preferred hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆-C ₃₀ alcohols, and more preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₁₂-C ₂₀ alcohols.

The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from linear or branched, saturated C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C ₁₂-C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C ₁₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C ₁₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.

Advantageously, the additional oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 85 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional cosmetic active agent (s)

Depend on the final purpose, the composition according to the present invention can comprise an additional cosmetic active agent (s) .

As additional cosmetic active agents that may be used in the composition of the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include vitamins (such as tocopheryl acetate) , moisturizers (such as sodium hyaluronate, irvingia gabonensis kernel butter) , whitening agents (such as capryloyl salicylic acid) , anti-wrinkling agents (such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1) , collagen-protecting agents, and a mixture thereof.

It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active agent based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fillers, antioxidants (such as ceramide NP) , preserving agents, fragrances (such as sodium saccharin) , neutralizers, opacifiers, pigments and dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes (such as sodium chloride) , pH regulators (for example citric acid or potassium hydroxide) , and a mixture thereof.

Needless to say, the skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %of coconut oil;

b) from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %of poly (stearyl acrylate) ; and

c) from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monooleate, and sorbitan trioleate.

Galenic form and use

The composition of the present invention can be in the form of sold, gel, or viscose liquid.

The anhydrous composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skincare product, a makeup product, or a haircare product.

The composition according to the present invention may be prepared in a conventional manner.

According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for/making up keratin materials comprising applying the anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

The keratin materials can be for example lips, skin, and hair.

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions according to the present invention, but not in any way a limitation of the scope of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-6

Compositions according to invention examples (IE) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE) 1-6 were prepared according to the contents given in Tables 2 and 3 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) .

Table 2

Table 3

Compositions of invention examples are compositions according to the present invention.

The composition of comparative example 1 does not any surfactant.

The composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise any thickener.

The composition of comparative example 3 comprises hydrogenated lecithin instead of sorbitan trioleate.

The composition of comparative example 4 comprises hydrogenated stryene/butadiene copolymer instead of poly (stearyl acrylate) .

The composition of comparative example 5 comprises hydrogenated stryene/isoprene copolymer instead of poly (stearyl acrylate) .

The composition of comparative example 6 comprises hydrogenated poly (C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer instead of poly (stearyl acrylate) .

Preparation procedure:

The compositions were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example:

1) . milling a part of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and all sodium saccharin with a miller to obtain a paste;

2) . mixing cocos nucifera (coconut) oil and squalane in an container at 80℃ until homogeneity;

3) . raising the temperature of the container to 110℃, and then add a part of ceramide NP, and mixing until the part of ceramide NP totally dissolved;

4) . lowering the temperature of the container to 80℃, and add the remaining bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, sorbitan trioleate, poly (stearyl acrylate) until homogeneity;

5) . adding octyldodecanol (and) irvingia gabonensis kernel butter (and) hydrogenated coco-glycerides, tocopheryl acetate, capryloyl salicylic acid, the remaining ceramide NP, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, sodium hyaluronate, and the milled paste in step 1, and continuously mixing at 80℃ until homogeneity; and

6) . pouring out into a container and cool down at room temperature.

Evaluation of compositions:

1. Homogeneity

The homogeneity of each composition obtained in invention examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-6 was evaluated visually after compounding.

It was found that, each composition obtained in invention examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 has a homogeneous outlook (recorded as “Yes” ) , while each composition obtained in comparative examples 4-6 has obvious separated layers and floating raw materials (recorded as “No” ) . The results were summarized in Tables 4 and 5.

2. Crystallization degree

Since compositions obtained in comparative examples 4-6 cannot form a homogeneous system, the crystallization degree thereof were not measured.

The crystallization degree of each composition obtained in invention examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 was measured as follows.

15 g of each freshly made composition of invention examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-7 after cooled down to room temperature in a container with an inside cross-section area of 13.8 cm ² was put into an isothermal oven at 18℃, and then crystallization degree of coconut oil of each composition was determined on the tenth day, and for composition of invention example 3 and comparative examples 1-3, then crystallization degree of coconut oil of each composition was also determined on the fourth day.

Furthermore, 15 g of each freshly made composition of invention example 3 and comparative examples 1-3 after cooled down to room temperature in a container with an inside cross-section area of 13.8 cm ²was put into an isothermal oven at 15℃, and crystallization degree of coconut oil of each composition was determined after 24 hours.

Fig. 1 shows a photo of the composition of invention example 1 after put in an isothermal oven at 18℃ for 10 days. It shows only small part of coconut oil appears on the surface of the composition.

Fig. 2 shows a photo of the composition of invention example 2 after put in an isothermal oven at 18℃ for 10 days. It shows no coconut oil appears on the surface of the composition.

Fig. 3 shows a photo of the composition of comparative example 1 after put in an isothermal oven at 18℃ for 10 days. It shows only small part of coconut oil appears on the surface of the composition.

Fig. 4 shows a photo of the composition of comparative example 2 after put in an isothermal oven at 18℃ for 10 days. It shows the surface of the composition was fully covered by coconut oil.

The crystallization degree of coconut oil was calculated according to the following formula:

S _appear/S _total*100%

wherein

S _appear is the surface area of coconut oil appeared on the surface of the composition tested, expressed in cm ²; and

S _total is the total surface area of the composition tested in the container, i.e. the inside cross-section area of the container, expressed in cm ².

S _appear/S _total was calculated by looping corresponding regions and analysing the area value with a computer image analytical app named Image J.

The results were listed in Tables 4 and 5.

Table 4

NA: not measured.

Table 5

	CE4	CE5	CE6
Homogeneity	No	No	No
Crystallizationdegree (%)	NA	NA	NA

NA: not measured.

It can be seen that the crystallization degree of coconut oil in compositions of invention examples 1-3 is no more than 50%.

Claims

An anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising,

a) no less than 5 wt. %of coconut oil, relative to the total weight of the composition;

b) at least one thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) ; and

c) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan.
The composition according to Claim 1, wherein coconut oil is present in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, more preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the thickener is selected from poly (C16-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) , preferably the thickener is poly (stearyl acrylate) .
The composition according to any of Claims 1-3, wherein the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monooleate, and sorbitan trioleate.
The composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the composition further comprises a pasty compound.
The composition according to claim 7, wherein the pasty compound is selected from esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C20, optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids, and/or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C10 dicarboxylic acids.
The composition according to claim 7, wherein the pasty compound is selected from condensates of adipic acid and of diglycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably, the pasty compound is bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.
The composition according to any of claims 7-9, wherein the pasty compound is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-10, wherein the composition further comprises at least one of vitamins, moisturizers, whitening agents, anti-wrinkling agents, and collagen-protecting agents.
The composition according to any of claims 1-11, wherein the composition further comprises at least one of fillers, antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, opacifiers, pigments, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes, and pH regulators.
The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %of coconut oil;

b) from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %of poly (stearyl acrylate) ; and

c) from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monooleate, and sorbitan trioleate.
A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising applying the composition according to any of clams 1-13 to the keratin materials.