WO2022215492A1 - Produit cosmétique de revêtement des lèvres - Google Patents

Produit cosmétique de revêtement des lèvres Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022215492A1
WO2022215492A1 PCT/JP2022/012550 JP2022012550W WO2022215492A1 WO 2022215492 A1 WO2022215492 A1 WO 2022215492A1 JP 2022012550 W JP2022012550 W JP 2022012550W WO 2022215492 A1 WO2022215492 A1 WO 2022215492A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
mass
present
lip
phenyl
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2022/012550
Other languages
English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
希子 冨田
啓佑 林田
桐子 千葉
Original Assignee
株式会社 資生堂
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 株式会社 資生堂 filed Critical 株式会社 資生堂
Priority to JP2023512903A priority Critical patent/JPWO2022215492A1/ja
Publication of WO2022215492A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022215492A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a lip coat cosmetic excellent in transfer resistance. More specifically, it relates to a lip coat cosmetic that exhibits excellent transfer resistance, is glossy, and does not give a feeling of film.
  • lip coat cosmetics that impart transfer resistance by coating on top of lipstick etc. It is known to use a "overcoat”).
  • Conventional lip coat cosmetics prevent secondary adhesion by blending a film agent or powder with a water-repellent or oil-repellent oil component to form a film layer on the lipstick layer (Patent Document 1). ).
  • Such a lip coat cosmetic can suppress secondary adhesion, but cannot avoid feeling like a film after application, and sometimes the finish becomes matte and loses "gloss”.
  • Patent Document 2 an oil-based lip coat containing predetermined amounts of methylphenylpolysiloxane, silicic anhydride, and polymethylsilsesquioxane particles each having a predetermined viscosity is excellent in transfer resistance, usability, and stability. It is stated that However, in the oil-based lip coat of Patent Document 2, polymethylsilsesquioxane is the only powder that can be stably blended with methylphenylpolysiloxane used to suppress bleeding.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a lip coat cosmetic of a new formulation that can impart excellent transfer resistance by top coating to lipstick, and can impart luster to the lips without giving a filmy feeling after application. do.
  • the present invention (a) 30-99% by weight of non-volatile dimethicone, and (b) A lip coat cosmetic containing 5% by mass or less of metallic soap.
  • the lip coat cosmetic of the present invention is an emulsified cosmetic containing (c1) phenyl-modified silicone or (c2) water in addition to (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (b) metallic soap. can be done.
  • the lip coat cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in transfer resistance (no secondary adhesion) effect, and is easy to use as a tool with an applicator.
  • the lip coat cosmetic of the present invention does not cause the base lipstick to bleed when it is applied over lipstick, and it does not give a filmy feeling after application, does not turn white (does not become white and cloudy), and can give a glossy finish. .
  • the lip coat cosmetic of the present invention has an appropriate viscosity, it is easy to remove from the container and does not drip.
  • the lip coat cosmetic of the present invention (hereinafter also simply referred to as “cosmetics”) contains (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (b) metallic soap as essential components.
  • Non-Volatile Dimethicone used in the cosmetic of the present invention is liquid at room temperature and is a non-volatile linear or branched silicone oil (dimethylpolysiloxane). is.
  • Non-volatile as used herein means not exhibiting volatility at normal temperature and normal pressure.
  • a non-volatile oil can be defined as an oil having an evaporation rate of less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min at normal temperature and pressure, without any particular limitation.
  • the (a) non-volatile dimethicone in the present invention is, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane having a degree of polymerization of 6 or more, and optionally part of the trimethylsilyl groups may be substituted with alkyl, alkoxyl, fluorine, or the like.
  • phenyl-modified silicones substituted with phenyl groups are not included in (a) non-volatile dimethicone.
  • the (a) non-volatile dimethicone used in the cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a viscosity within the range of 100 to 5,000 cs (centistokes) as measured with a Brookfield viscometer at 30°C.
  • the amount of (a) nonvolatile dimethicone blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is 30 to 99% by mass, preferably 35 to 90% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
  • the "metallic soap” blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is generally understood as higher fatty acid salts of non-alkali metals such as calcium, zinc and magnesium.
  • carboxysilicone metal salt having a structure represented by the following general formula (1) in the cosmetic of the present invention.
  • X is Ra or a group represented by the following formula (2)
  • R a and R b are each independently selected from a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a phenyl group, and may be the same or different.
  • alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms include straight groups such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, i-butyl, s-butyl, t-butyl, pentyl, neopentyl, hexyl and cyclopentyl.
  • a chain, branched or cyclic alkyl group can be mentioned.
  • Each of m and n is an integer of 1 or more and is not particularly limited, but preferably 1, 2 or 3.
  • A is a linear or branched alkylene group represented by C q H2 q , where q is an integer of 0-20, preferably 2-10.
  • M is a metal atom other than alkali metals, and includes divalent alkaline earth metals and divalent or higher metal atoms. Examples of divalent alkaline earth metals include Mg, Ca, and Ba, and examples of other metal atoms include Mn, Fe, Co, Al, Ni, Cu, V, Mo, Nb, Zn, and Ti. be done.
  • the metal atom M in the metal soap (carboxysilicone metal salt) used in the present invention is particularly preferably Ca, Zn, Mg or Al.
  • p is an integer of 2 or more corresponding to the valence of the metal atom (M).
  • a particularly preferred carboxysilicone in the present invention is 3-(10-carboxydecyl)-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane (hereinafter also referred to as "carboxydecyltrisiloxane”).
  • the content of (b) metallic soap in the cosmetic of the present invention is 5% by mass or less, preferably 4% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount of the metallic soap exceeds 5% by mass, the viscosity of the cosmetic becomes high and the applicator tends not to stick to it.
  • the lower limit of the amount of the metal soap (b) is not particularly limited, but is usually 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a viscosity of 1 to 14 Pa ⁇ s (Brookfield viscometer) at 30°C of the entire cosmetic. If the viscosity of the cosmetic is less than 1 Pa ⁇ s, it tends to drip from the applicator, and if it exceeds 14 Pa ⁇ s, it tends not to adhere to the applicator.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention can contain (c1) phenyl-modified silicone or (c2) water in addition to (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (b) metal soap.
  • (c1) phenyl-modified silicone or (c2) water is blended, it can be provided as an oil-in-oil, oil-in-water, or water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.
  • the phenyl-modified silicone in the present invention is a non-volatile silicone oil that is liquid at room temperature and has a structure in which some of the methyl groups of dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) are substituted with phenyl groups.
  • phenyl-modified silicone examples include, but are not limited to, phenyltrimethicone, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.
  • the cosmetic containing (c1) phenyl-modified silicone is an oil-in-oil type in which one of (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (c1) phenyl-modified silicone is an external phase (continuous phase) and the other is an internal phase (dispersed phase). It becomes an oily cosmetic.
  • the content of (c1) phenyl-modified silicone in the cosmetic of the present invention is 60% by mass or less, preferably 58% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount of the phenyl-modified silicone (c1) exceeds 60% by mass, the stability of the emulsion tends to decrease.
  • the content of (c2) water in the cosmetic of the present invention is 60% by mass or less, preferably 58% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
  • (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (c2) water mixing ratio (mass ratio), [(a) / (c2)] 0.5 ⁇ 5.0 in the range of emulsification It is preferable from the viewpoint of stability.
  • Aqueous phase thickeners include natural or synthetic organic modified clay minerals such as bentonite, agar, xanthan gum, succinoglycan, carboxyvinyl polymer (carbomer), (dimethylacrylamide/acryloyldimethyltaurate Na) crosspolymer, and the like. can be exemplified.
  • the amount of the aqueous phase thickener is not particularly limited as long as the viscosity of the cosmetic is within the above range (1 to 14 Pa ⁇ s at 30°C). Usually, it is 0.05 to 6% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
  • Silicic anhydride The cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains (e) silicic anhydride. (e) Addition of silicic anhydride further improves stability. (e) Silicic anhydride is preferably ultrafine silicic anhydride having an average primary particle size of 1 to 50 nm, such as Aerosil 200, 300, R972, R974, RY200 (manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.). The silicic anhydride used in the present invention may be hydrophilic or hydrophobized by silylation or the like.
  • the content of (e) silicic anhydride in the cosmetic of the present invention is 0.5 to 5% by mass, preferably 1 to 4% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention may contain other ingredients that are commonly used in lip coat cosmetics as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • other ingredients include coloring materials, oils (other than silicone oils), powders, dyes, moisturizers, perfumes, surfactants, antioxidants, preservatives, cosmetic ingredients, and the like.
  • oils other than silicone oils
  • the cosmetics of the present invention also include embodiments in which no hydrocarbon oil is blended.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention can be provided as a liquid lip coat (lipstick overcoat), lip balm, or the like.
  • a lip coat cosmetic having good usability and excellent transfer resistance and gloss.
  • the present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited by these. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amount is shown in % by mass.
  • Lip coat cosmetics were prepared according to the usual method with the formulations shown in Tables 2 to 5 below.
  • the cosmetics of each example were evaluated for "transfer resistance (secondary adhesion resistance effect)", "ease of use” and “finishing” based on the following methods and criteria.
  • "Ease of use” means ease of taking the cosmetic from the container using the applicator (no defects such as dripping due to too low viscosity or sticking to the applicator due to too high viscosity)
  • finish means that the lip coat cosmetic does not turn white but is glossy after being applied.
  • the viscosity at 30° C. of some cosmetics was measured using a Brookfield viscometer (rotor M4, number of revolutions 12 rpm).
  • "-" in the table means unmeasured.
  • lip coat cosmetics having formulations shown in Tables 2 to 5 below were applied over the lipstick.
  • the application method was a method in which, after applying the cosmetics of each example and each comparative example to the lips, the upper and lower lips were rubbed together and pressure was applied for about 5 seconds. Transfer resistance was evaluated based on the absence of color transfer to the cup. Ease of use was evaluated based on ease of application with the applicator and ease of application with the applicator. The finish was evaluated by a sensory test and visual observation by each specialized panel.
  • Evaluation criteria A: Evaluation value (average value) 4.0 or more B: Evaluation value (average value) 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 points C: Evaluation value (average value) less than 3.0 points
  • Non-volatile dimethicone is not compatible with the oil commonly used in lipstick, so it can be applied over the lipstick without bleeding the base lipstick, giving it excellent transfer resistance.
  • Comparative Example 1-1 containing no metal soap had too low a viscosity and dripped from the applicator and could not be applied. was too high to stick to the applicator and could not be removed from the container with the applicator.
  • Examples 2-1 to 2-4 which were oil-in-oil emulsions of (a) nonvolatile dimethicone and (c1) phenyl-modified silicone, were excellent in transfer resistance, ease of use, and finish. .
  • Comparative Example 2-1 in which the amount of phenyl-modified silicone was more than 60% by mass, a stable emulsion could not be prepared.
  • Examples 3-1 to 3-7 which were water-in-oil emulsions in which (a) non-volatile dimethicone was the outer phase (continuous phase) and (c2) water was the inner phase (dispersed phase), had excellent transfer resistance. demonstrated its versatility and ease of use. However, when the viscosity of the cosmetic exceeds 14 Pa ⁇ s, although the transfer resistance and ease of use are excellent, the cosmetic may become white after application and the finish may deteriorate (data not shown).
  • Example 3-8 as an oil-in-water emulsion with water as an external phase (continuous phase) is easier to use than the water-in-oil type Although the hardness and finish were slightly inferior, the properties were sufficiently satisfactory. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 3-1 and 3-2 containing no metal soap, stable emulsions could not be prepared in either the water-in-oil type or the oil-in-water type.
  • Lip coat cosmetics of the present invention were prepared according to the formulations shown in Tables 6 and 7 below.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Birds (AREA)
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
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Abstract

La présente invention a pour objet de réaliser un produit cosmétique de revêtement des lèvres qui est une nouvelle formulation capable de fournir une résistance de transfert supérieure supplémentaire lorsqu'il est utilisé en tant que couche de finition pour un rouge à lèvres, et capable de conférer un brillant aux lèvres sans laisser une sensation de revêtement sur les lèvres après application. La présente invention concerne un produit cosmétique de revêtement des lèvres caractérisé en ce qu'il contient (a) de 30 à 99 % en masse de diméthicone non volatile, et (b) au plus 5 % en masse d'un savon métallique. Le produit cosmétique de revêtement des lèvres selon la présente invention peut être transformé en un produit cosmétique de type émulsion qui contient (c1) une silicone modifiée par un phényle ou (c2) de l'eau, ainsi que (a) la diméthicone non volatile et (b) le savon métallique.
PCT/JP2022/012550 2021-04-06 2022-03-18 Produit cosmétique de revêtement des lèvres WO2022215492A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2023512903A JPWO2022215492A1 (fr) 2021-04-06 2022-03-18

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2021-064827 2021-04-06
JP2021064827 2021-04-06

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WO2022215492A1 true WO2022215492A1 (fr) 2022-10-13

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5470437A (en) * 1977-11-16 1979-06-06 Kobayashi Kose Co Lip overcoat
JPH07316016A (ja) * 1994-05-25 1995-12-05 Shiseido Co Ltd 口紅オーバーコート
JPH0881335A (ja) * 1994-09-13 1996-03-26 Kanebo Ltd 油性リップコート
JPH08183715A (ja) * 1994-12-28 1996-07-16 Shiseido Co Ltd 水中油乳化型リップオーバーコート
JP2002138017A (ja) * 2000-10-30 2002-05-14 Kose Corp 油性化粧料
JP2016132650A (ja) * 2015-01-21 2016-07-25 株式会社 資生堂 メーキャップ化粧料

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5470437A (en) * 1977-11-16 1979-06-06 Kobayashi Kose Co Lip overcoat
JPH07316016A (ja) * 1994-05-25 1995-12-05 Shiseido Co Ltd 口紅オーバーコート
JPH0881335A (ja) * 1994-09-13 1996-03-26 Kanebo Ltd 油性リップコート
JPH08183715A (ja) * 1994-12-28 1996-07-16 Shiseido Co Ltd 水中油乳化型リップオーバーコート
JP2002138017A (ja) * 2000-10-30 2002-05-14 Kose Corp 油性化粧料
JP2016132650A (ja) * 2015-01-21 2016-07-25 株式会社 資生堂 メーキャップ化粧料

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