WO2022038322A1 - Perfumed composition for making an olfactory support - Google Patents

Perfumed composition for making an olfactory support Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022038322A1
WO2022038322A1 PCT/FR2021/051441 FR2021051441W WO2022038322A1 WO 2022038322 A1 WO2022038322 A1 WO 2022038322A1 FR 2021051441 W FR2021051441 W FR 2021051441W WO 2022038322 A1 WO2022038322 A1 WO 2022038322A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
woven
extemporaneous
support
perfumed
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2021/051441
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Gérard Redziniak
Fanny REDZINIAK
Valérie SABATIER
Original Assignee
Benu Blanc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Benu Blanc filed Critical Benu Blanc
Priority to KR1020237009316A priority Critical patent/KR20230054695A/en
Publication of WO2022038322A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022038322A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/005—Compositions containing perfumes; Compositions containing deodorants
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • D06M23/02—Processes in which the treating agent is releasably affixed or incorporated into a dispensing means
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • D06M23/06—Processes in which the treating agent is dispersed in a gas, e.g. aerosols
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • D06M23/08—Processes in which the treating agent is applied in powder or granular form
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • D06M23/12—Processes in which the treating agent is incorporated in microcapsules
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the general field of perfumed compositions and in particular perfumed compositions intended to be deposited on woven or non-woven supports for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, veterinary or even phytosanitary applications.
  • the invention relates to a perfume composition.
  • the invention also relates to a process for treating a woven or non-woven support with such a perfumed composition.
  • the invention finds applications in numerous industrial fields, and in particular for the manufacture of cosmeto-textiles or dermo-textiles.
  • the invention is particularly advantageous since it makes it possible to increase the quantity of molecules and natural extracts applied to a support and to prolong the presence of these elements on this support.
  • document CN 107724095 A describes a process for treating a tie by applying to this tie preformed microcapsules whose core comprises a hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition and whose shell comprises proteins selected from silk, wheat or soy proteins.
  • the microcapsules are formed before being deposited on the tie.
  • the microcapsules can be damaged when they are stored and/or when they are deposited on the support.
  • the olfactory molecules therefore diffuse more quickly and the duration of the olfactory effect is reduced.
  • An object of the present invention is to propose a perfumed composition intended to be deposited on a woven or nonwoven support and whose molecules of interest can be released durably (typically several hours) once the composition has been deposited on said support.
  • the present invention proposes a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture and aromatic odor molecules, the composition further comprising an extemporaneous microencapsulation agent to extemporaneously form microcapsules containing the aromatic odor molecules, the extemporaneous microencapsulation being chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or a mixture thereof.
  • the invention differs fundamentally from the prior art by the addition to the perfumed composition of polypeptides, preferably of microbial origin, and/or lipophilized polysaccharides.
  • microcapsules formed extemporaneously (i.e. at the time of use) on the support. They are not formed prior to deposition as in the prior art.
  • these molecules can be used in higher concentrations, which leads to the formation of a greater quantity of microcapsules.
  • the extemporaneous microencapsulation agents attach themselves to the fibers of the support at the time of deposition to form molecular cocoons. Thanks to the microencapsulation, the fragrant aromatic molecules (scents and aromatic active ingredients) diffuse slowly and completely. They can persist for several hours on the medium (for example at least 6 hours, or even for 8 hours or more). A prolonged and substantial release effect of these molecules is thus obtained.
  • the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is palmitoyl hyaluronate.
  • the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is surfactin.
  • the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition also comprises essential oils, preferably chosen from the essential oils of Mandarin, Petitgrain bigarade, lavender, lavandin, ylang-ylang, neroli, Roman chamomile, marjoram, lemon verbena and sandalwood.
  • the aromatic odorous molecules are chosen from the following compounds: gamma undecalactone, melonal, trans-2-hexenal, linalyl acetate, trans-2-decenal, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-l-ol, methyl ionone, 2- 6 nonadien-l-ol, geraniol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, limonene, 2-6-dimethyl-2-heptanol, gamma decalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hedione, helional, limonene, aldehydes C8 to CIO, citral, linalyl acetate, isoamyl angelate, isobutyl angelate, farnesol, benzyl acetate, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial,
  • the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition further comprises proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or peptides extracted from cereals, for example extracts from maize such as zein or extracts from wheat such as gliadins, or extracts from silk such as sericin .
  • Such a composition can be used to manufacture cosmeto-textiles or dermato-textiles.
  • the invention also relates to a process for treating a woven or nonwoven support comprising a step during which a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition as defined previously is projected in the form of droplets onto the woven or nonwoven support, whereby extemporaneously forms perfumed microcapsules on the woven or non-woven support.
  • this step is carried out by spraying, vaporizing or misting.
  • the woven or non-woven support is a pillowcase, preferably made of silk or cotton.
  • the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of palmitoyl hyaluronate and/or surfactin.
  • FIG. 2 is a graph representing the olfactory signatures of different mists: an ethanol mist, a natural mist marketed by Occitane, a synthetic mist marketed by Durance and a Bergamot-Mimosa mist according to a particular embodiment of the invention,
  • FIG. 3 is a bar chart representing the CQ.S of different mists: an ethanol mist, a natural mist marketed by Occitane, a synthetic mist marketed by Durance and a Bergamot-Mimosa mist according to a particular embodiment of the invention,
  • FIG. 4 is a graph representing the evolution of the concentration of volatile organic products (VOC) according to the number of measurement cycles carried out with the photoionization detector, for a natural haze marketed by Occitane and for a natural haze according to a mode particular embodiment of the invention.
  • VOC volatile organic products
  • the invention particularly finds applications in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, veterinary or phytosanitary field.
  • the invention is particularly advantageous for the functionalization of textile support by microcapsules containing olfactory molecules with a view to giving the textile calming, relaxing and/or cosmetic (anti-wrinkle, for example) properties.
  • the process for treating the woven or nonwoven support comprises a step during which, preferably by spraying, vaporizing or misting, is deposited on the woven or nonwoven support a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture, odorous molecules aromatics, and a microencapsulation agent chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or a of their mixtures, whereby scented microcapsules are extemporaneously formed on said woven or non-woven support.
  • microcapsules also called microparticles or microscopic “pearls”
  • the microcapsules are formed in situ on the support when the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition is deposited thereon.
  • the odorous molecules are dispersed in the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition (i.e. they are not encapsulated).
  • the encapsulation is carried out subsequently at the time of deposition.
  • fine droplets advantageously in the form of a mist or an aerosol, promotes the production of microcapsules of uniform size and distribution on the support.
  • the largest dimension of the microcapsules is of micrometric size (for example from 1 to 100 ⁇ m and preferably from 10 ⁇ m to 50 ⁇ m).
  • the woven or non-woven support can be a natural or synthetic textile.
  • it is a natural textile.
  • it can be natural silk, cotton or linen.
  • the textile can be a garment, a sheet or a pillowcase.
  • the solvent of the composition is a water and alcohol mixture.
  • the proportion of alcohol ranges, for example, from 60% to 90% by volume.
  • the solvent comprises from 70% to 80% by volume of alcohol.
  • the alcohol is, for example, ethanol and preferably denatured ethanol.
  • the microencapsulation agent is chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides and one of their mixtures.
  • Lipopeptides are molecules made up of a lipid and a peptide.
  • these molecules comprise a peptide ring linked to a fatty acid chain (lipid chain).
  • the fatty acid chain can contain, for example, 13 to 15 carbon atoms.
  • Lipopeptides are amphiphilic molecules.
  • the peptide part is hydrophilic and the lipid part is either lipophilic or hydrophobic.
  • the lipopeptides are lipopeptides of microbial/bacterial origin (called microbial lipopeptides). These lipopeptides are produced by bacteria.
  • the lipopeptides can be synthesized in the laboratory.
  • the lipopeptides can be obtained from a glutamic acid decapeptide, certain carboxyl functions of which are esterified with a fatty alcohol of the cetyl alcohol type.
  • surfactin will be chosen.
  • Surfactin can be produced by the bacterium Bacillus Subtilis.
  • lipopeptides from iturins and fengycins
  • lipophilized polysaccharides polysaccharides having been subjected to a lipophilization step so as to covalently graft fatty chains (lipid chains) onto the hydroxyl functions of the polysaccharides. This grafting makes it possible to modify the hydrophilic/lipophilic balance of the polysaccharides and to give them an amphiphilic character.
  • the lipophilized polysaccharides can be good cutaneous sensors of urban pollutants of the hydrocarbon type and/or good natural cleansers/mattifiers for removing fatty substances from the skin, in particular excess sebum, and obtaining a matte effect.
  • the fatty acid chain can contain, for example, from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • Lipophilized polysaccharides are polysaccharides covalently functionalized by fatty chains.
  • palmitoyl hyaluronate also called hexadecanoyl hyaluronate
  • the composition comprises a mixture of palmitoyl hyaluronate and surfactin.
  • the microencapsulation agent represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, of the hydroalcoholic composition.
  • composition may further contain additional encapsulants.
  • additional encapsulation agents can be proteins, protein hydrolysates or peptides alone or in mixture.
  • proteins, protein hydrolysates or peptides can be of natural or synthetic origin. They can be enriched with hydrophobic amino acids such as Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Leucine and Isoleucine.
  • the proteins, protein hydrolysates and peptides are extracted from silk (for example sericin), and/or extracted from cereals such as wheat (for example Gliadins) or like maize (for example Zein).
  • silk for example sericin
  • cereals such as wheat (for example Gliadins) or like maize (for example Zein).
  • Aromatic odorous molecules are, for example, part of the following compounds and molecules: gamma undecalactone, melonal, trans-2-hexenal, linalyl acetate, trans-2-decenal, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-l-ol, methyl ionone, 2 -6 nonadien-l-ol, geraniol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, limonene, 2-6-dimethyl-2- heptanol, gamma decalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hedione, helional, limonene, C8 aldehydes to CIO, citral, linalyl acetate, isoamyl angelate, isobutyl angelate, farnesol, benzyl acetate, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole
  • the hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition may also contain essential oils known for their relaxing and calming properties such as extracts of: Mandarin, Petitgrain bigarade, lavender, lavandin, ylang-ylang, neroli, Roman chamomile, marjoram, lemon verbena, sandalwood .
  • the hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition is obtained by preparing a solution containing the water/alcohol mixture and the aromatic odor molecules, then by adding the encapsulating agent to said solution.
  • the perfumed composition is deposited on the support at the time of use.
  • the composition is deposited on the support by a technique making it possible to project the composition in fine droplets onto the support, such as spraying, misting or atomization.
  • the perfumed composition can be deposited on the support, for example, using a spray, an atomizer or even an atomizer under gas pressure.
  • Example of a scented hydroalcoholic composition Example of a scented hydroalcoholic composition:
  • mists were tested and their properties were compared.
  • the mists are as follows:
  • PCA principal component analysis
  • the clustering quality score takes into account the repeatability of measurements for the same sample as well as the distance with other samples.
  • the CQS makes it possible to estimate the performance of the experiment.
  • the individual CQS represents the quality of separation of each group of data ('cluster') taken individually among the other groups of data.
  • the individual CQS of the mist according to the invention is 62.22% (FIG. 3).
  • the overall CQS represents the quality of the overall separation on a set N of different grouped odors. Above an overall CQS of 50%, it is considered that there is a good separation. This is the case for this experiment with an overall CQS of 53.08%.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Biomedical Technology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Disinfection, Sterilisation Or Deodorisation Of Air (AREA)
  • Fats And Perfumes (AREA)

Abstract

Perfumed aqueous-alcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture and aromatic odorous molecules, the composition further comprising an extemporaneous microencapsulation agent for extemporaneously forming microcapsules containing the aromatic odorous molecules, the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent being chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilic polysaccharides or a mixture thereof. Such a composition can be used to make cosmetotextiles or dermato-textiles.

Description

COMPOSITION PARFUMEE POUR FABRIQUER UN SUPPORT OLFACTIF PERFUMED COMPOSITION FOR MANUFACTURING AN OLFACTORY SUPPORT
DESCRIPTIONDESCRIPTION
DOMAINE TECHNIQUE TECHNICAL AREA
La présente invention se rapporte au domaine général des compositions parfumées et en particulier des compositions parfumées destinées à être déposées sur des supports tissés ou non tissés pour des applications cosmétiques, pharmaceutiques, vétérinaires, ou encore phytosanitaires. The present invention relates to the general field of perfumed compositions and in particular perfumed compositions intended to be deposited on woven or non-woven supports for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, veterinary or even phytosanitary applications.
L'invention concerne une composition parfumée. The invention relates to a perfume composition.
L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement d'un support tissé ou non tissé avec une telle composition parfumée. The invention also relates to a process for treating a woven or non-woven support with such a perfumed composition.
L'invention trouve des applications dans de nombreux domaines industriels, et notamment pour la fabrication de cosméto-textiles ou de dermo-textiles. The invention finds applications in numerous industrial fields, and in particular for the manufacture of cosmeto-textiles or dermo-textiles.
L'invention est particulièrement intéressante puisqu'elle permet d'augmenter la quantité de molécules et d'extraits naturels appliqués sur un support et de prolonger la présence de ces éléments sur ce support. The invention is particularly advantageous since it makes it possible to increase the quantity of molecules and natural extracts applied to a support and to prolong the presence of these elements on this support.
ÉTAT DE LA TECHNIQUE ANTÉRIEURE PRIOR ART
Il est connu qu'après vaporisation ou brumisation sur un support tissé ou non tissé, une composition parfumée, à base de molécules odorantes de type aromatiques, a une durée de présence très éphémère (quelques minutes à une ou deux heures maximum). It is known that after vaporization or misting on a woven or non-woven support, a perfumed composition, based on odorous molecules of the aromatic type, has a very ephemeral duration of presence (a few minutes to one or two hours maximum).
Afin de prolonger la présence de ces molécules olfactives sur le support final, il est possible de piéger la composition parfumée dans des microcapsules puis de déposer ces microcapsules sur un support. In order to prolong the presence of these olfactory molecules on the final support, it is possible to trap the perfumed composition in microcapsules then to deposit these microcapsules on a support.
Par exemple, le document CN 107724095 A décrit un procédé de traitement d'une cravate par application sur cette cravate de microcapsules préformées dont le noyau comprend une composition parfumée hydro-alcoolique et dont la coquille comprend des protéines sélectionnées parmi les protéines de soie, du blé ou du soja. Les microcapsules sont formées avant d'être déposées sur la cravate. For example, document CN 107724095 A describes a process for treating a tie by applying to this tie preformed microcapsules whose core comprises a hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition and whose shell comprises proteins selected from silk, wheat or soy proteins. The microcapsules are formed before being deposited on the tie.
Cependant, avec un tel procédé, les microcapsules peuvent être détériorées quand elles sont stockées et/ou lorsqu'elles sont déposées sur le support. Les molécules olfactives diffusent donc plus rapidement et la durée de l'effet olfactif est réduite. However, with such a method, the microcapsules can be damaged when they are stored and/or when they are deposited on the support. The olfactory molecules therefore diffuse more quickly and the duration of the olfactory effect is reduced.
EXPOSÉ DE L'INVENTION DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
Un but de la présente invention est de proposer une composition parfumée destinée à être déposée sur un support tissé ou non tissé et dont les molécules d'intérêt pouvant être libérée durablement (typiquement plusieurs heures) une fois la composition déposée sur ledit support. An object of the present invention is to propose a perfumed composition intended to be deposited on a woven or nonwoven support and whose molecules of interest can be released durably (typically several hours) once the composition has been deposited on said support.
Pour cela, la présente invention propose une composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprenant un mélange eau/alcool et des molécules odorantes aromatiques, la composition comprenant en outre un agent de microencapsulation extemporanée pour former de manière extemporanée des microcapsules contenant les molécules odorantes aromatiques, l'agent de microencapsulation extemporanée étant choisi parmi les lipopeptides, les polysaccharides lipophilisés ou un de leurs mélanges. For this, the present invention proposes a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture and aromatic odor molecules, the composition further comprising an extemporaneous microencapsulation agent to extemporaneously form microcapsules containing the aromatic odor molecules, the extemporaneous microencapsulation being chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or a mixture thereof.
L'invention se distingue fondamentalement de l'art antérieur par l'ajout à la composition parfumée de polypeptides, de préférence d'origine microbienne, et/ou de polysaccharides lipophilisés. The invention differs fundamentally from the prior art by the addition to the perfumed composition of polypeptides, preferably of microbial origin, and/or lipophilized polysaccharides.
Il a été observé qu'avec de tels composés, des microcapsules se formaient extemporanément (i.e. au moment de l'emploi) sur le support. Elles ne sont pas formées préalablement au dépôt comme dans l'art antérieur. It has been observed that with such compounds, microcapsules formed extemporaneously (i.e. at the time of use) on the support. They are not formed prior to deposition as in the prior art.
De plus, étant donné leur haute solubilité dans le mélange eau/alcool, ces molécules peuvent être utilisées en concentration plus élevées, ce qui conduit à la formation d'une plus grande quantité de microcapsules. Moreover, given their high solubility in the water/alcohol mixture, these molecules can be used in higher concentrations, which leads to the formation of a greater quantity of microcapsules.
Les agents de microencapsulation extemporanée se fixent sur les fibres du support au moment du dépôt pour former des cocons moléculaires. Grâce à la microencapsulation, les molécules aromatiques odorantes (senteurs et actifs aromatiques) se diffusent lentement et totalement. Elles peuvent persister plusieurs heures sur le support (par exemple au moins 6h, voire pendant 8 heures ou plus). On obtient ainsi un effet de libération prolongé et substantif de ces molécules. The extemporaneous microencapsulation agents attach themselves to the fibers of the support at the time of deposition to form molecular cocoons. Thanks to the microencapsulation, the fragrant aromatic molecules (scents and aromatic active ingredients) diffuse slowly and completely. They can persist for several hours on the medium (for example at least 6 hours, or even for 8 hours or more). A prolonged and substantial release effect of these molecules is thus obtained.
Selon une première variante de réalisation avantageuse, l'agent de microencapsulation extemporanée est le palmitoyl hyaluronate. According to a first advantageous embodiment variant, the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is palmitoyl hyaluronate.
Selon une autre variante de réalisation avantageuse, l'agent de microencapsulation extemporanée est la surfactine. According to another advantageous embodiment variant, the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is surfactin.
Avantageusement, l'agent de microencapsulation extemporanée représente de 0,01% à 20% en poids de la composition, de préférence de 0,1% à 5% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 3% à 5% en poids de la composition. Advantageously, the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight of the composition.
Avantageusement, la composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprend en outre des huiles essentielles, de préférence, choisies parmi les huiles essentielles de Mandarine, Petitgrain bigarade, lavande, lavandin, ylang-ylang, néroli, camomille romaine, Marjolaine à coquille, Verveine odorante et Santal. Advantageously, the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition also comprises essential oils, preferably chosen from the essential oils of Mandarin, Petitgrain bigarade, lavender, lavandin, ylang-ylang, neroli, Roman chamomile, marjoram, lemon verbena and sandalwood.
Avantageusement, les molécules odorantes aromatiques sont choisies parmi les composés suivants : gamma undécalactone, mélonal, trans-2-hexenal, acétate de linalyl, trans-2-décénal, aldéhyde cyclamen, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-l-ol, méthyl ionone, 2-6 nonadien-l-ol, géraniol, alcool phényl-éthylique, limonène, 2-6-diméthyl-2- heptanol, gamma décalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hédione, hélional, limonène, aldéhydes en C8 à CIO, citral, acétate de linalyle, angélate d'isoamyle, angélate d'isobutyle, farnésol, acétate de benzyl, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, et santalol. Advantageously, the aromatic odorous molecules are chosen from the following compounds: gamma undecalactone, melonal, trans-2-hexenal, linalyl acetate, trans-2-decenal, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-l-ol, methyl ionone, 2- 6 nonadien-l-ol, geraniol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, limonene, 2-6-dimethyl-2-heptanol, gamma decalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hedione, helional, limonene, aldehydes C8 to CIO, citral, linalyl acetate, isoamyl angelate, isobutyl angelate, farnesol, benzyl acetate, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, and santalol.
Avantageusement, la composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprend en outre des protéines, des hydrolysats de protéines et/ou des peptides extraits des céréales, par exemple extraits du maïs comme la zéine ou extraits du blé comme des gliadines, ou extraits de la soie telle que la séricine. Advantageously, the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition further comprises proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or peptides extracted from cereals, for example extracts from maize such as zein or extracts from wheat such as gliadins, or extracts from silk such as sericin .
Une telle composition peut être utilisée pour fabriquer des cosméto- textiles ou des dermato-textiles. L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement d'un support tissé ou non tissé comprenant une étape au cours de laquelle on projette sous la forme de gouttelettes une composition hydroalcoolique parfumée telle que définie précédemment, sur le support tissé ou non tissé moyennant quoi on forme de manière extemporanée des microcapsules parfumées sur le support tissé ou non tissé. Such a composition can be used to manufacture cosmeto-textiles or dermato-textiles. The invention also relates to a process for treating a woven or nonwoven support comprising a step during which a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition as defined previously is projected in the form of droplets onto the woven or nonwoven support, whereby extemporaneously forms perfumed microcapsules on the woven or non-woven support.
De préférence, cette étape est réalisée par pulvérisation, vaporisation ou brumisation. Preferably, this step is carried out by spraying, vaporizing or misting.
Ces techniques de dépôt conduisent à un effet de séchage par atomisation (« spray drying »). L'alcool s'évaporant plus vite que l'eau par la finesse des gouttelettes, il y a condensation des molécules amphiphiles autour des molécules lipophiles créant des microcapsules extemporanées. Les molécules de la coquille des microcapsules protègent le cœur parfumé formé de molécules odorantes aromatiques, ce qui assure une très bonne stabilité de la signature olfactive des microcapsules dans le temps. These deposition techniques lead to a drying effect by atomization (“spray drying”). The alcohol evaporating faster than water by the fineness of the droplets, there is condensation of the amphiphilic molecules around the lipophilic molecules creating extemporaneous microcapsules. The molecules in the shell of the microcapsules protect the fragrant heart made up of aromatic odorous molecules, which ensures very good stability of the olfactory signature of the microcapsules over time.
Avantageusement, le support tissé ou non tissé est une taie d'oreiller, de préférence en soie ou en coton. Advantageously, the woven or non-woven support is a pillowcase, preferably made of silk or cotton.
Avantageusement, la composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprend de 0,01% à 20% et de préférence de 0,1% à 5% en poids de palmitoyl hyaluronate et/ou de surfactine. Advantageously, the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of palmitoyl hyaluronate and/or surfactin.
D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention ressortiront du complément de description qui suit. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge from the additional description which follows.
Il va de soi que ce complément de description n'est donné qu'à titre d'illustration de l'objet de l'invention et ne doit en aucun cas être interprété comme une limitation de cet objet. It goes without saying that this additional description is only given by way of illustration of the object of the invention and should in no way be interpreted as a limitation of this object.
BRÈVE DESCRIPTION DES DESSINS BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
La présente invention sera mieux comprise à la lecture de la description d'exemples de réalisation donnés à titre purement indicatif et nullement limitatif en faisant référence aux dessins annexés sur lesquels : - la figure 1 représente de manière schématique, une composition, selon l'invention, pulvérisée sur un oreiller pour former de manière extemporanée des microcapsules sur l'oreiller, The present invention will be better understood on reading the description of exemplary embodiments given purely for information and in no way limiting with reference to the appended drawings in which: - Figure 1 schematically shows a composition according to the invention, sprayed on a pillow to extemporaneously form microcapsules on the pillow,
- la figure 2 est un graphique représentant les signatures olfactives de différentes brumes : une brume d'éthanol, une brume naturelle commercialisée par Occitane, une brume de synthèse commercialisée par Durance et une brume Bergamote- Mimosa selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, - Figure 2 is a graph representing the olfactory signatures of different mists: an ethanol mist, a natural mist marketed by Occitane, a synthetic mist marketed by Durance and a Bergamot-Mimosa mist according to a particular embodiment of the invention,
- la figure 3 est un diagramme en bâton représentant le CQ.S de différentes brumes : une brume d'éthanol, une brume naturelle commercialisée par Occitane, une brume de synthèse commercialisée par Durance et une brume Bergamote- Mimosa selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, - Figure 3 is a bar chart representing the CQ.S of different mists: an ethanol mist, a natural mist marketed by Occitane, a synthetic mist marketed by Durance and a Bergamot-Mimosa mist according to a particular embodiment of the invention,
- la figure 4 est un graphique représentant l'évolution de la concentration en produits organiques volatils (VOC) en fonction du nombre de cycles de mesures réalisés au détecteur à photoionisation, pour une brume naturelle commercialisée par Occitane et pour une brume naturelle selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention. - Figure 4 is a graph representing the evolution of the concentration of volatile organic products (VOC) according to the number of measurement cycles carried out with the photoionization detector, for a natural haze marketed by Occitane and for a natural haze according to a mode particular embodiment of the invention.
EXPOSÉ DÉTAILLÉ DE MODES DE RÉALISATION PARTICULIERS DETAILED DISCUSSION OF PARTICULAR EMBODIMENTS
Bien que cela ne soit aucunement limitatif, l'invention trouve particulièrement des applications dans le domaine cosmétique, pharmaceutique, vétérinaire ou encore phytosanitaire. Although this is in no way limiting, the invention particularly finds applications in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, veterinary or phytosanitary field.
L'invention est particulièrement intéressante pour la fonctionnalisation de support textile par des microcapsules contenant des molécules olfactives en vue de conférer au textile des propriétés calmantes, relaxantes et/ou cosmétiques (anti-rides par exemple). The invention is particularly advantageous for the functionalization of textile support by microcapsules containing olfactory molecules with a view to giving the textile calming, relaxing and/or cosmetic (anti-wrinkle, for example) properties.
Le procédé de traitement du support tissé ou non tissé comprend une étape au cours de laquelle on dépose, de préférence par pulvérisation, vaporisation ou brumisation, sur le support tissé ou non tissé une composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprenant un mélange eau/alcool, des molécules odorantes aromatiques, et un agent de microencapsulation choisi parmi les lipopeptides, les polysaccharides lipophilisés ou un de leurs mélanges, moyennant quoi on forme de manière extemporanée des microcapsules parfumées sur ledit support tissé ou non tissé. The process for treating the woven or nonwoven support comprises a step during which, preferably by spraying, vaporizing or misting, is deposited on the woven or nonwoven support a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture, odorous molecules aromatics, and a microencapsulation agent chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or a of their mixtures, whereby scented microcapsules are extemporaneously formed on said woven or non-woven support.
Les microcapsules (aussi appelées microparticules ou « perles » microscopiques) sont formées in situ sur le support au moment où la composition hydroalcoolique parfumée y est déposée. The microcapsules (also called microparticles or microscopic “pearls”) are formed in situ on the support when the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition is deposited thereon.
Les molécules odorantes sont dispersées dans la composition hydroalcoolique parfumée (i.e. elles ne sont pas encapsulées). L'encapsulation est réalisée ultérieurement au moment du dépôt. The odorous molecules are dispersed in the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition (i.e. they are not encapsulated). The encapsulation is carried out subsequently at the time of deposition.
La formation de fines gouttelettes, avantageusement sous la forme d'une brume ou d'un aérosol, favorisent l'obtention de microcapsules de taille et de répartition homogènes sur le support. The formation of fine droplets, advantageously in the form of a mist or an aerosol, promotes the production of microcapsules of uniform size and distribution on the support.
La plus grande dimension des microcapsules est de taille micrométrique (par exemple de 1 à 100pm et de préférence de 10pm à 50pm). The largest dimension of the microcapsules is of micrometric size (for example from 1 to 100 μm and preferably from 10 μm to 50 μm).
Le support tissé ou non tissé peut être un textile naturel ou synthétique. De préférence, il s'agit d'un textile naturel. Par exemple, il peut s'agir de soie naturelle, de coton ou de lin. The woven or non-woven support can be a natural or synthetic textile. Preferably, it is a natural textile. For example, it can be natural silk, cotton or linen.
Le textile peut être un vêtement, un drap ou une taie d'oreiller. The textile can be a garment, a sheet or a pillowcase.
Le solvant de la composition est un mélange eau et alcool. La proportion d'alcool va, par exemple, de 60% à 90% volumique. Par exemple, le solvant comprend de 70% à 80% volumique d'alcool. The solvent of the composition is a water and alcohol mixture. The proportion of alcohol ranges, for example, from 60% to 90% by volume. For example, the solvent comprises from 70% to 80% by volume of alcohol.
L'alcool est, par exemple, de l'éthanol et de préférence de l'éthanol dénaturé. The alcohol is, for example, ethanol and preferably denatured ethanol.
L'agent de microencapsulation est choisi parmi les lipopeptides, les polysaccharides lipophilisés et un de leurs mélanges. The microencapsulation agent is chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides and one of their mixtures.
Les lipopeptides sont des molécules formées d'un lipide et d'un peptide. En particulier, ces molécules comprennent un cycle peptidique lié à une chaîne d'acide gras (chaîne lipidique). La chaîne d'acides gras peut contenir, par exemple, de 13 à 15 atomes de carbone. Les lipopeptides sont des molécules amphiphiles. La partie peptidique est hydrophile et la partie lipidique est lipophile ou hydrophobe. Selon une première variante de réalisation, les lipopeptides sont des lipopeptides d'origine microbienne/bactérienne (appelés lipopeptides microbiens). Ces lipopeptides sont produits par des bactéries. Lipopeptides are molecules made up of a lipid and a peptide. In particular, these molecules comprise a peptide ring linked to a fatty acid chain (lipid chain). The fatty acid chain can contain, for example, 13 to 15 carbon atoms. Lipopeptides are amphiphilic molecules. The peptide part is hydrophilic and the lipid part is either lipophilic or hydrophobic. According to a first embodiment variant, the lipopeptides are lipopeptides of microbial/bacterial origin (called microbial lipopeptides). These lipopeptides are produced by bacteria.
Selon une autre variante de réalisation, les lipopeptides peuvent être synthétisés en laboratoire. Par exemple, les lipopeptides peuvent être obtenus à partir d'un décapeptide d'acide glutamique dont certaines fonctions carboxyle sont estérifiées par un alcool gras de type alcool cétylique. According to another embodiment variant, the lipopeptides can be synthesized in the laboratory. For example, the lipopeptides can be obtained from a glutamic acid decapeptide, certain carboxyl functions of which are esterified with a fatty alcohol of the cetyl alcohol type.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, on choisira la surfactine. La surfactine peut être produite par la bactérie Bacillus Subtilis. According to a preferred embodiment, surfactin will be chosen. Surfactin can be produced by the bacterium Bacillus Subtilis.
Selon une autre variante de réalisation, il est possible de choisir les lipopeptides parmi les iturines et les fengycines According to another variant embodiment, it is possible to choose the lipopeptides from iturins and fengycins
Par polysaccharides lipophilisés, on entend des polysaccharides ayant été soumis à une étape de lipophilisation de manière à greffer de façon covalente, des chaînes grasses (chaînes lipidiques) sur les fonctions hydroxyles des polysaccharides. Ce greffage permet de modifier la balance hydrophile/lipophile des polysaccharides et de leur conférer un caractère amphiphile. By lipophilized polysaccharides is meant polysaccharides having been subjected to a lipophilization step so as to covalently graft fatty chains (lipid chains) onto the hydroxyl functions of the polysaccharides. This grafting makes it possible to modify the hydrophilic/lipophilic balance of the polysaccharides and to give them an amphiphilic character.
Avantageusement, les polysaccharides lipophilisés peuvent être de bons capteurs cutanés de polluants urbains de type hydrocarbures et/ou de bons nettoya nts/matifiants naturels pour enlever les corps gras sur la peau, en particulier le sébum en excès, et obtenir un effet mat. Advantageously, the lipophilized polysaccharides can be good cutaneous sensors of urban pollutants of the hydrocarbon type and/or good natural cleansers/mattifiers for removing fatty substances from the skin, in particular excess sebum, and obtaining a matte effect.
La chaîne d'acides gras peut contenir, par exemple, de 8 à 20 atomes de carbone et de préférence de 10 à 16 atomes de carbone. The fatty acid chain can contain, for example, from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
Les polysaccharides lipophilisés sont des polysaccharides fonctionnalisés de manière covalente par des chaînes grasses. Lipophilized polysaccharides are polysaccharides covalently functionalized by fatty chains.
On choisira, par exemple, le palmitoyl hyaluronate (aussi appelé hexadecanoyl hyaluronate). We will choose, for example, palmitoyl hyaluronate (also called hexadecanoyl hyaluronate).
De préférence, la composition comprend un mélange de palmitoyl hyaluronate et de surfactine. Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of palmitoyl hyaluronate and surfactin.
Selon un mode de réalisation avantageux, l'agent de microencapsulation représente de 0,01% à 20% en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 10% en poids, encore plus préférentiellement de 0,1% à 5% en poids et de manière encore plus préférentielle de 3% à 5% en poids, de la composition hydroalcoolique. According to an advantageous embodiment, the microencapsulation agent represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, of the hydroalcoholic composition.
La composition peut contenir en outre des agents d'encapsulation additionnels. Les agents d'encapsulation additionnels peuvent être des protéines, des hydrolysats de protéines ou des peptides seuls ou en mélange. The composition may further contain additional encapsulants. The additional encapsulation agents can be proteins, protein hydrolysates or peptides alone or in mixture.
Les protéines, hydrolysats de protéines ou peptides peuvent être d'origine naturelle ou synthétique. Ils peuvent être enrichis d'acides aminés hydrophobes tels que la Glycine, l'Alanine, la Valine, la Leucine et l'Isoleucine. The proteins, protein hydrolysates or peptides can be of natural or synthetic origin. They can be enriched with hydrophobic amino acids such as Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Leucine and Isoleucine.
De préférence, les protéines, hydrolysats de protéines et peptides sont extraits de la soie (par exemple la séricine), et/ou extraits de céréales comme le blé (par exemple les Gliadines) ou comme le maïs (par exemple la Zéine). Preferably, the proteins, protein hydrolysates and peptides are extracted from silk (for example sericin), and/or extracted from cereals such as wheat (for example Gliadins) or like maize (for example Zein).
Les molécules odorantes aromatiques font par exemple partie des composés et molécules suivant : gamma undécalactone, mélonal, trans-2-hexenal, acetate de linalyl, trans-2-décénal, aldéhyde cyclamen, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-l-ol, méthyl ionone, 2-6 nonadien-l-ol, géraniol, alcool phényl-éthylique, limonène,2-6-diméthyl-2- heptanol, gamma décalactone,3-hydroxy-2-butanone,beta ionone, hédione, hélional, limonène, aldéhydes en C8 à CIO, citral, acétate de linalyle, angélate d'isoamyle, angélate d'isobutyle, farnésol, acétate de benzyl, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, santalol. Aromatic odorous molecules are, for example, part of the following compounds and molecules: gamma undecalactone, melonal, trans-2-hexenal, linalyl acetate, trans-2-decenal, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-l-ol, methyl ionone, 2 -6 nonadien-l-ol, geraniol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, limonene, 2-6-dimethyl-2- heptanol, gamma decalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hedione, helional, limonene, C8 aldehydes to CIO, citral, linalyl acetate, isoamyl angelate, isobutyl angelate, farnesol, benzyl acetate, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, santalol.
La composition parfumée hydro-alcoolique peut également contenir des huiles essentielles connues pour leur propriétés relaxantes et calmantes comme des extraits de : Mandarine, Petitgrain bigarade, lavande, lavandin, ylang-ylang, néroli, camomille romaine, Marjolaine à coquille, Verveine odorante, Santal. The hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition may also contain essential oils known for their relaxing and calming properties such as extracts of: Mandarin, Petitgrain bigarade, lavender, lavandin, ylang-ylang, neroli, Roman chamomile, marjoram, lemon verbena, sandalwood .
Avantageusement, la composition parfumée hydro-alcoolique est obtenue en préparant une solution contenant le mélange eau/alcool et les molécules odorantes aromatiques, puis en ajoutant l'agent d'encapsulation à ladite solution. Advantageously, the hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition is obtained by preparing a solution containing the water/alcohol mixture and the aromatic odor molecules, then by adding the encapsulating agent to said solution.
Une fois préparée, la composition parfumée est déposée sur le support au moment de l'emploi. La composition est déposée sur le support par une technique permettant de projeter la composition en fines gouttelettes sur le support telle que la pulvérisation, la brumisation ou l'atomisation. La composition parfumée peut être déposée sur le support, par exemple, à l'aide d'un spray, d'un brumisateur ou encore d'un atomiseur sous pression de gaz. Once prepared, the perfumed composition is deposited on the support at the time of use. The composition is deposited on the support by a technique making it possible to project the composition in fine droplets onto the support, such as spraying, misting or atomization. The perfumed composition can be deposited on the support, for example, using a spray, an atomizer or even an atomizer under gas pressure.
La vaporisation/brumisation d'une telle composition sur une taie d'oreiller conduit à la formation de microcapsules sur la taie d'oreiller (figure 1). Il est ainsi possible de réaliser un soin cosmétique (hydratation de la peau et/ou des cheveux par exemple) pendant la nuit et/ou d'apporter un effet apaisant et/ou relaxant pour un meilleur sommeil. The vaporization/misting of such a composition on a pillowcase leads to the formation of microcapsules on the pillowcase (FIG. 1). It is thus possible to carry out a cosmetic treatment (hydration of the skin and/or hair for example) during the night and/or to provide a soothing and/or relaxing effect for better sleep.
Exemple illustratif et non limitatif d'un mode de réalisation : Illustrative and non-limiting example of an embodiment:
Exemple de composition hydroalcoolique parfumée : Example of a scented hydroalcoholic composition:
-Base aromatique 5% massique. - Aromatic base 5% by mass.
-Palmitoyl hyaluronate (commercialisé par la société Contipro) 0,5% massique. -Palmitoyl hyaluronate (marketed by the company Contipro) 0.5% by weight.
-Surfactine (commercialisé par la société Sigma) 0,1% massique. -Surfactin (marketed by the company Sigma) 0.1% by mass.
-Mélange Eau/Alcool (20/80 volumique) qsp 100 % -Water/Alcohol mixture (20/80 by volume) qsp 100%
Exemples comparatifs : Comparative examples:
Plusieurs brumes ont été testées et leurs propriétés ont été comparées. Les brumes sont les suivantes : Several mists were tested and their properties were compared. The mists are as follows:
- une brume d'éthanol, - a mist of ethanol,
- une brume naturelle de la marque Occitane, - a natural mist from the Occitane brand,
- une brume de synthèse de la marque Durance, - a synthetic mist from the Durance brand,
- une brume Benu Blanc de bergamote-mimosa selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention. - a Benu Blanc mist of bergamot-mimosa according to a particular embodiment of the invention.
Une analyse en composantes principales (ACP ou PCA pour « principal component analysis ») montre que les différentes brumes présentent des signatures olfactives très différentes (figure 2). Les brumes naturelles se différencient nettement des brumes de synthèse et de l'échantillon d'éthanol. La stabilité des signatures olfactives dans le temps a également été étudiée. A principal component analysis (PCA or PCA for “principal component analysis”) shows that the different mists have very different olfactory signatures (figure 2). The natural mists are clearly different from the synthetic mists and the ethanol sample. The stability of olfactory signatures over time was also studied.
Le score de qualité de regroupement (CQS « Clustering Quality Score ») prend en compte la répétabilité des mesures pour un même échantillon ainsi que la distance avec les autres échantillons. Le CQS permet d'estimer la performance de l'expérience. The clustering quality score (CQS) takes into account the repeatability of measurements for the same sample as well as the distance with other samples. The CQS makes it possible to estimate the performance of the experiment.
Le CQS individuel représente la qualité de séparation de chaque groupe de données ('cluster') pris individuellement parmi les autres groupes de données. Le CQS individuel de la brume selon l'invention est de 62,22% (figure 3). The individual CQS represents the quality of separation of each group of data ('cluster') taken individually among the other groups of data. The individual CQS of the mist according to the invention is 62.22% (FIG. 3).
Le CQS global représente la qualité de la séparation globale sur un ensemble N d'odeurs différentes regroupées. Au-dessus d'un CQS global de 50%, on considère qu'il y a une bonne séparation. C'est le cas pour cette expérience avec un CQS global de 53,08%. The overall CQS represents the quality of the overall separation on a set N of different grouped odors. Above an overall CQS of 50%, it is considered that there is a good separation. This is the case for this experiment with an overall CQS of 53.08%.
Finalement, l'évolution de la concentration en composés organiques volatils (COV ou VOC pour « volatile organic compounds ») au cours du temps confirme la bonne tenue de la brume selon l'invention (figure 4). Finally, the evolution of the concentration of volatile organic compounds (VOC or VOC for “volatile organic compounds”) over time confirms the good resistance of the mist according to the invention (FIG. 4).

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprenant un mélange eau/alcool et des molécules odorantes aromatiques, caractérisée en ce que la composition comprend en outre un agent de microencapsulation extemporanée pour former de manière extemporanée des microcapsules contenant les molécules odorantes aromatiques, l'agent de microencapsulation extemporanée étant choisi parmi les lipopeptides, les polysaccharides lipophilisés ou un de leurs mélanges. 1. Perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture and aromatic odor molecules, characterized in that the composition further comprises an extemporaneous microencapsulation agent to extemporaneously form microcapsules containing the aromatic odor molecules, the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent being chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or a mixture thereof.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'agent de microencapsulation extemporanée est le palmitoyl hyaluronate. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is palmitoyl hyaluronate.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'agent de microencapsulation extemporanée est la surfactine. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is surfactin.
4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'agent de microencapsulation extemporanée représente de 0,01% à 20% en poids de la composition, de préférence de 0,1% à 5% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 3% à 5% en poids de la composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight of the composition.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprend en outre des huiles essentielles, de préférence, choisies parmi les huiles essentielles de Mandarine, Petitgrain bigarade, lavande, lavandin, ylang-ylang, néroli, camomille romaine, Marjolaine à coquille, Verveine odorante et Santal. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition further comprises essential oils, preferably chosen from essential oils of Mandarin, Petitgrain bigarade, lavender, lavandin, ylang-ylang, neroli , Roman chamomile, Shell marjoram, Lemon verbena and Sandalwood.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les molécules odorantes aromatiques sont choisies parmi les composés suivants : gamma undécalactone, mélonal, trans-2-hexenal, acetate de linalyl, trans-2-décénal, aldéhyde cyclamen, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-l-ol, méthyl ionone, 2-6 nonadien-l-ol, géraniol, alcool phenyl-éthylique, limonène, 2-6-diméthyl-2-heptanol, gamma décalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone,beta ionone, hédione, hélional, limonène, aldéhydes en C8 à CIO, citral, acétate de linalyle, angélate d'isoamyle, angélate d'isobutyle, farnésol, acétate de benzyl, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, santalol. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aromatic odorous molecules are chosen from the following compounds: gamma undecalactone, melonal, trans-2-hexenal, acetate of linalyl, trans-2-decenal, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-l-ol, methyl ionone, 2-6 nonadien-l-ol, geraniol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, limonene, 2-6-dimethyl-2-heptanol, gamma decalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hedione, helional, limonene, C8 to CIO aldehydes, citral, linalyl acetate, isoamyl angelate, isobutyl angelate, farnesol, benzyl acetate, cis- 3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, santalol.
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprend en outre des protéines, des hydrolysats de protéines et/ou des peptides extraits des céréales, par exemple extraits du maïs comme la zéine ou extraits du blé comme des gliadines, ou extraits de la soie telle que la séricine. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition further comprises proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or peptides extracted from cereals, for example extracts from corn such as zein or extracts from wheat such as gliadins, or silk extracts such as sericin.
8. Procédé de traitement d'un support tissé ou non tissé comprenant une étape au cours de laquelle on projette sous la forme de gouttelettes une composition hydroalcoolique parfumée telle que définie précédemment, sur le support tissé ou non tissé moyennant quoi on forme de manière extemporanée des microcapsules parfumées sur le support tissé ou non tissé. 8. Process for treating a woven or nonwoven support comprising a step during which a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition as defined above is projected in the form of droplets onto the woven or nonwoven support, whereby scented microcapsules on the woven or non-woven support.
9. Procédé selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que le support tissé ou non tissé est une taie d'oreiller, de préférence en soie ou en coton. 9. Method according to claim 8, characterized in that the woven or non-woven support is a pillowcase, preferably made of silk or cotton.
10. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 8 et 9, caractérisé en ce que la composition hydroalcoolique parfumée comprend de 0,01% à 20% et de préférence de 0,1% à 5% en poids de palmitoyl hyaluronate et/ou de surfactine. 10. Method according to one of claims 8 and 9, characterized in that the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of palmitoyl hyaluronate and / or surfactin.
PCT/FR2021/051441 2020-08-20 2021-08-04 Perfumed composition for making an olfactory support WO2022038322A1 (en)

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FR2008575A FR3113493B1 (en) 2020-08-20 2020-08-20 PERFUMED COMPOSITION FOR MANUFACTURING AN OLFACTORY SUPPORT

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