WO2021132530A1 - Composite comprising polyvinyl alcohol and water-soluble thickener - Google Patents

Composite comprising polyvinyl alcohol and water-soluble thickener Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021132530A1
WO2021132530A1 PCT/JP2020/048612 JP2020048612W WO2021132530A1 WO 2021132530 A1 WO2021132530 A1 WO 2021132530A1 JP 2020048612 W JP2020048612 W JP 2020048612W WO 2021132530 A1 WO2021132530 A1 WO 2021132530A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
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composite
polyvinyl alcohol
thickener
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PCT/JP2020/048612
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Mitsuhiro Ebara
Koichiro Uto
Mingwei MU
Marie-Adeline MARLIAC
Adrien KAESER
Mohammad Mydul ALAM
Jun Sasai
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L'oreal
National Institute For Materials Science
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Publication of WO2021132530A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021132530A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8129—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by an alcohol, ether, aldehydo, ketonic, acetal or ketal radical; Compositions of hydrolysed polymers or esters of unsaturated alcohols with saturated carboxylic acids; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. polyvinylmethylether
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a humidity-responsive composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • hairstyling products which can keep hairstyles for a long period of time under humid conditions.
  • styling products having various forms such as gels, mists, waxes, and creams are used, but there are no products that can fulfill the above desire.
  • Humidity-responsive materials which change their properties depending on the relative humidity, are known.
  • such materials are disclosed in US 6,627,673 B2 and US 8,790,450 B2.
  • they are difficult to use in cosmetics due to safety concerns and lack of cosmetic properties.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a material with a humidity-responsive property, which can be used in hair cosmetics capable of not only maintaining hairstyles for a long period of time under humid conditions but also can be applied to the hair easily.
  • the above objective can be achieved by a composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • the polyvinyl alcohol may have a degree of hydrolysis of 70% or more, preferably 75% or more, more preferably 80% or more, and most preferably 85% or more, and less than 100%, preferably 98% or less, more preferably 95% or less, and most preferably 90% or less.
  • the polyvinyl alcohol may have a degree of polymerization of 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, more preferably 500 or more, and most preferably 700 or more, and 2500 or less, preferably 2200 or less, more preferably 2000 or less, and most preferably 1800 or less.
  • the polyvinyl alcohol may be a polymer having the following unit (I): , and the following optional unit (II): wherein the unit (II) is not present or is present in amount of 1 mol% or more, preferably 5 mol% or more, and more preferably 10 mol% or more, and 20 mol% or less, preferably 18 mol% or less, and more preferably 15 mol% or less.
  • the water-soluble thickener may be a thickening polymer bearing sugar units.
  • the thickening polymer bearing sugar units may be carrageenans or gum arabic.
  • the concentration of the water-soluble thickener may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, even more preferably 20% by weight or less, still even more preferably 15% by weight or less, and most preferably 10% by weight or less, and 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing the composite of the present invention, comprising mixing the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener in an aqueous medium such as water.
  • the present invention may also relate to a composition
  • a composition comprising the composite of the present invention in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, and 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention may also relate to a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener and wherein the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener are combined to form a composite.
  • composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and preferably a hairstyling composition.
  • the present invention may also relate to a process of styling the hair, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair.
  • the present invention may also relate to a process of memorizing a hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions or of maintaining the hairstyle for a long period of time under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair.
  • the present invention may also relate to the use of a combination of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener, in order to form a humidity-responsive composite.
  • hair cosmetics having a good balance between (i) a property for keeping hairstyles for a long period of time under humid conditions and (ii) good texture when being applied onto a keratin substance such as the hair can be provided by a composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • one aspect of the present invention is a composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • the composite of the present invention comprises at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, and the concentration of the thickener must be 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • the composite essentially consists of or consists of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener.
  • the composite can be prepared from a solution comprising the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener in an aqueous medium, i.e., water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • the composite can be prepared by mixing the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener in an aqueous medium such as water.
  • water-soluble solvents for example lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
  • the composite of the present invention can be regarded as being an aggregate of the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener, such as a covalently-bonded assembly of the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener.
  • the composite has a humidity-responsive property. Therefore, the composite can maintain hairstyles for a long period of time under humid conditions. Furthermore, the composite can memorize the hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions. Accordingly, after the composite is applied to the hair, even if the hair becomes untidy, the hair is converted back into its original style under humid conditions.
  • the composite can impart good texture to a cosmetic composition. Therefore, the composition can be applied to the hair very easily.
  • the composite comprises polyvinyl alcohol that is water-soluble, the composite can easily be rinsed off from the hair with water.
  • the total concentration of the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener may be 70% by weight or more, preferably 80% by weight or more, more preferably 90% by weight or more, and most preferably 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • the composite may be comprised in a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and more preferably a hairstyling composition, in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, and 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair
  • a hairstyling composition in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, and 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composite of the present invention comprises at least one polyvinyl alcohol.
  • the polyvinyl alcohol is a polymer having a vinyl alcohol unit with the following formula:
  • the polyvinyl alcohol can be obtained by polymerizing vinyl ester to obtain a polymer in accordance with a well-known method, followed by hydrolyzing the polymer.
  • an acid or a base is generally used.
  • the base is used in the hydrolyzing step.
  • a completely-hydrolyzed polymer may be used as the polyvinyl alcohol of the present invention.
  • Any suitable polymerization method may be used.
  • the polymerization method mention may be made of a solution polymerization method,- a bulk polymerization method, and a suspension polymerization method.
  • vinyl ester mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl formate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, and vinyl benzoate.
  • the degree of hydrolysis and the degree of polymerization for the polyvinyl alcohol may be appropriately selected depending on the intended use.
  • the degree of hydrolysis may be 70% or more, preferably 75% or more, more preferably 80% or more, and most preferably 85% or more, and less than 100%, preferably 98% or less, more preferably 95% or less, and most preferably 90% or less.
  • the degree of hydrolysis can be controlled by any suitable well-known method. In general, the degree of hydrolysis can be measured in accordance with JIS K6726.
  • the degree of polymerization may be 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, more preferably 500 or more, and most preferably 700 or more, and 2500 or less, preferably 2200 or less, more preferably 2000 or less, and most preferably 1800 or less.
  • the degree of polymerization can be measured in accordance with JIS K6726.
  • the vinyl ester may be vinyl acetate.
  • the polyvinyl alcohol comprised in the composite of the present invention may be a polymer prepared by polymerizing vinyl acetate and hydrolyzing the resultant product.
  • the polyvinyl alcohol may be a polymer having the following unit (I): , and the following optional unit (II):
  • the unit (II) is not present or is present in amount of 1 mol% or more, preferably 5 mol% or more, and more preferably 10 mol% or more, and 20 mol% or less, preferably 18 mol% or less, and more preferably 15 mol% or less.
  • the degree of hydrolysis is 95%.
  • the polyvinyl alcohol may have an average-weight molecular weight (Mw) of 10000 or more, preferably 12000 or more, and more preferably 15000 or more, and 500000 or less, preferably 300000 or less, and more preferably 200000 or less.
  • a derivative of polyvinyl alcohol such as anion-modified polyvinyl alcohol and cation-modified polyvinyl alcohol may be used in the present invention.
  • anion-modified polyvinyl alcohol mention may be made of polyvinyl alcohol which is modified by carboxylic acid, undecylenic acid and/or sulfonic acid.
  • carboxylic acid-modified polyvinyl alcohol may be prepared by introducing a compound comprising a carboxy group into polyvinyl alcohol by means of any suitable well-known method.
  • the cation-modified polyvinyl alcohol mention may be made of polyvinyl alcohol which is modified by ammonium, sulfonium and/or an amino group.
  • SELVOLTM (Celvol®) Polyvinyl Alcohol sold by SEKISUI may be used as the polyvinyl alcohol.
  • the concentration of the polyvinyl alcohol may be 60% by weight or more, preferably 70% by weight or more, more preferably 80% by weight or more, even more preferably 90% by weight or more, and most preferably 95% by weight or more, and 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 96% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • the composite of the present invention comprises at least one water-soluble thickener.
  • the "water-soluble thickener” may increase the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at ambient temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
  • the water-soluble thickener of the present invention may be chosen from thickening polymers bearing sugar units and thickening polymers not bearing sugar units, and mixtures thereof.
  • sucrose unit means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • the sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • sugar units that may be included in the composition of the water-soluble thickener of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  • the thickening polymer bearing sugar units according to the present invention may especially include native gums such as: a) tree or shrub exudates, including:
  • - gum arabic comprising a branched polymer derived from galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • - ghatti gum comprising a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid
  • - karaya gum comprising a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid;
  • gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (comprising a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums resulting from algae, including:
  • - agar comprising a polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose
  • - alginates comprising a polymer derived of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid
  • guar gum comprising a polymer derived of mannose and galactose
  • locust bean gum comprising a polymer derived of mannose and galactose
  • - tamarind gum comprising a polymer derived of galactose, xylose and glucose
  • microbial gums including:
  • - xanthan gum (comprising a polymer derived of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);
  • - gellan gum (comprising a polymer derived of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
  • These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As a physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of heating.
  • Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may especially be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.
  • the nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.
  • Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups may be "Jaguar HP8", “Jaguar HP60” and “Jaguar HP120” sold by Rhodia Chimie.
  • the botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers.
  • the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
  • the starches may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.
  • Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate may be used, for instance "Prejel VA-70-T AGGL” (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), “Prejel TK1” (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and “Prejel 200” (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) sold by Avebe, or "Structure Zea” (gelatinized com distarch phosphate) sold by National Starch.
  • amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
  • the anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site.
  • the anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic.
  • the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
  • the starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular such as com, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above.
  • the starch may be preferably derived from potato.
  • the cellulose may be cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose and ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and also quatemized cellulose derivatives.
  • the thickening polymer not bearing sugar units according to the present invention may be crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, alone or mixtures thereof.
  • a first family of the thickening polymer not bearing sugar units may be represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • the thickening polymer not bearing sugar units may also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as "Aqua SF1" sold by Noveon.
  • the thickening polymer not bearing sugar units may be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.
  • Ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide may be used.
  • ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned is “Microsap PAS 5193” sold by Hoechst.
  • copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide that may be mentioned is “Bozepol C Wunsch” or “PAS 5193” sold by Hoechst. Reference may be made especially to FR 2416723, US 2,798,053 and US 2,923,692 regarding the description and preparation of such compounds.
  • cationic thickening polymers of acrylic type Use may also be made of cationic thickening polymers of acrylic type.
  • the thickening polymer not bearing sugar units mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts and esters thereof, and in particular"Versicol F ® “ or “Versicol K ® “ sold by Allied Colloid, and “Ultrahold 8 ® “ sold by Ciba-Geigy; copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide such as that sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof under the name "Reten ® " by Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate such as that sold under the name "Darvan 7 ® " by Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as that sold under the name "Hydagen F ® " by Henkel; proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins and soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example
  • the thickening polymer bearing sugar units may be used, for example carrageenans and gum arabic.
  • the thickening polymer bearing sugar units i.e. polysaccharide thickeners
  • carrageenans i.e. polysaccharide thickeners
  • gum arabic i.e. gum arabic
  • “SATIAGELTM VPC 508" sold by Cargill may be used as the carrageenans
  • "EFICACIA XE” sold by Nexira may be used as the gum arabic.
  • the concentration of the water-soluble thickener must be 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite. If the composite comprises the water-soluble thickener in an amount of more than 40% by weight, the composite cannot convert the hair back into its original form or maintain the hair curl under humid conditions.
  • the concentration of the water-soluble thickener may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, even more preferably 20% by weight or less, still even more preferably 15% by weight or less, and most preferably 10% by weight or less, and 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composite.
  • the present invention may also relate to a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener and wherein the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener are combined to form a composite.
  • the composition may preferably be a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and preferably a hairstyling composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, fragrances, pearlescent agents, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, demulcent agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, agents for combating hair loss, antidandruff agents, propellants or ceramides, or mixtures thereof.
  • ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as vitamins, fragrances, pearlescent agents, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, demulcent agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, agents for combating hair loss, antidandruff agents, propellants or ceramides, or mixtures thereof.
  • ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as vitamins, fragrances, pearlescent agents, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, demulcent agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens,
  • composition according to the invention may have the form in particular of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution or suspension, of an oily suspension or solution, of an emulsion or dispersion with a liquid or semi-liquid consistency obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), of a dispersion or emulsion with a soft consistency, of an aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic or oily (anhydrous) gel, or also of microcapsules or microparticles, or of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used in the hair field, especially for form retention of the hairstyle or hair shaping.
  • the hair compositions may preferably be shampoos, gels, hair setting lotions, blow-drying lotions, fixing and styling compositions such as lacquers or sprays.
  • the lotions may be packaged in various forms, especially in spray, pump dispensers or in aerosol containers in order to provide application of the composition in sprayed form or in foam form.
  • the composite according to the present invention be intended for use in a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and preferably a hairstyling composition.
  • the composite or composition according to the present invention may be used for a process of styling the hair, the process comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair.
  • the composite or composition according to the present invention may be used for a process of memorizing a hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair.
  • the composite or composition according to the present invention may be used for a process of maintaining hairstyle under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair.
  • the composite or composition according to the present invention may be used for a process of converting the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair and putting the hair back into humid conditions.
  • the present invention may relate to a process of improving the texture of a composition, comprising adding the composite according to the present invention to the composition.
  • the present invention may also relate to the use of a combination of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener, in order to form a humidity-responsive composite.
  • Another aspect of the present invention is a combination of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener, for use in forming a humidity-responsive composite.
  • the present invention may also relate to the use of the composite or composition according to the present invention, in order to style the hair.
  • the present invention may also relate to the use of the composite or composition according to the present invention, in order to (i) memorize a hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions or (ii) maintain the hairstyle under humid conditions.
  • the present invention may relate to the use of the composite according to the present invention, in order to improve the texture of the composition.
  • the composite or composition according to the present invention can maintain hairstyles under humid conditions. Also, the composite or composition according to the present invention can convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions. Furthermore, the composite according to the present invention can improve the texture of the composition, for example such that the composition can easily be applied to the hair.
  • carrageenan and Acacia Senegal gum were used as the water-soluble thickener.
  • inventive composites were prepared from “Inventive Formulation 1" to "Inventive Formulation 3" comprising polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and one water-soluble thickener selected from carrageenan and Acacia Senegal gum, wherein the concentration of the water-soluble thickener is within the scope defined by the present invention.
  • a comparative composite was prepared from “Comparative Formulation 1 " comprising only PVA.
  • comparative composites were prepared from "Comparative Formulation 2" and “Comparative Formulation 3” comprising PVA and the water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the water-soluble thickener is not within the scope defined by the present invention.
  • inventive and comparative formulations were prepared by adding carrageenan powder or gum arabic powder and water to the 6% by weight of PVA solution such that they comprised the PVA, carrageenan powder or gum arabic powder, and water in the amounts shown in
  • a curling iron was used at 180°C for 20 sec to dry the hair and make curls using heat.
  • the length of the swatch was measured (this length corresponds to "hair length after application”, and it was referred to as " L0' ").
  • the hair swatch was placed into a humidity chamber (80% humidity) at 30°C for 6 hr. The hair swatch was removed from the chamber and the length was measured (this length corresponds to "hair length after humidification", and it was referred to as " Lt ' ").
  • Apercent of curl maintaining property was calculated in accordance with the following formula: "[(L' - Lf) / (L' - L0')] x 100".
  • Inventive Formulation 1 and Comparative Formulation 2 had the same concentration of the composite in the formulations (5% by weight). However, only Inventive Formulation 1 was able to not only convert the hair back into its original form under humid conditions (a high "% of SMP") but also maintain the hair curl under humid conditions (a high "% of curl maintaining property”). Therefore, it was demonstrated that only Inventive Formulation 1 was able to form a humidity-responsive composite. This means that the ratio between PVA and the water-soluble thickener is important. Specifically, when the concentration of the water-soluble thickener was 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite, a high "% of SMP" and a high "% of curl maintaining property” could be achieved. This is also supported by the results of Inventive Formulations 2 and 3 and Comparative Formulation 3.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite. Also, the present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener and wherein the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener are combined to form a composite. The composite or composition according to the present invention can maintain a hairstyle under humid conditions. Also, the composite or composition according to the present invention can convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions. Furthermore, the composition has acceptable texture such as one which allows easy application to the hair.

Description

DESCRIPTION
COMPOSITE COMPRISING POLYVINYL ALCOHOL AND WATER-SOLUBLE
THICKENER
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a humidity-responsive composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
BACKGROUND ART
In the field of hair cosmetics, consumers desire hairstyling products which can keep hairstyles for a long period of time under humid conditions. Currently, many styling products having various forms such as gels, mists, waxes, and creams are used, but there are no products that can fulfill the above desire.
Humidity-responsive materials, which change their properties depending on the relative humidity, are known. For example, such materials are disclosed in US 6,627,673 B2 and US 8,790,450 B2. However, they are difficult to use in cosmetics due to safety concerns and lack of cosmetic properties.
Therefore, there is a need for hair cosmetics with humidity-responsive properties, which are capable of maintaining hairstyles under humid conditions and which have acceptable texture such as one which allows easy application to the hair.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a material with a humidity-responsive property, which can be used in hair cosmetics capable of not only maintaining hairstyles for a long period of time under humid conditions but also can be applied to the hair easily.
The above objective can be achieved by a composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
The polyvinyl alcohol may have a degree of hydrolysis of 70% or more, preferably 75% or more, more preferably 80% or more, and most preferably 85% or more, and less than 100%, preferably 98% or less, more preferably 95% or less, and most preferably 90% or less.
The polyvinyl alcohol may have a degree of polymerization of 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, more preferably 500 or more, and most preferably 700 or more, and 2500 or less, preferably 2200 or less, more preferably 2000 or less, and most preferably 1800 or less.
The polyvinyl alcohol may be a polymer having the following unit (I):
Figure imgf000003_0001
, and the following optional unit (II):
Figure imgf000003_0002
wherein the unit (II) is not present or is present in amount of 1 mol% or more, preferably 5 mol% or more, and more preferably 10 mol% or more, and 20 mol% or less, preferably 18 mol% or less, and more preferably 15 mol% or less.
The water-soluble thickener may be a thickening polymer bearing sugar units.
The thickening polymer bearing sugar units may be carrageenans or gum arabic.
The concentration of the water-soluble thickener may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, even more preferably 20% by weight or less, still even more preferably 15% by weight or less, and most preferably 10% by weight or less, and 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composite.
The present invention may also relate to a process for preparing the composite of the present invention, comprising mixing the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener in an aqueous medium such as water.
The present invention may also relate to a composition comprising the composite of the present invention in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, and 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The present invention may also relate to a composition comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener and wherein the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener are combined to form a composite.
The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and preferably a hairstyling composition.
The present invention may also relate to a process of styling the hair, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair.
The present invention may also relate to a process of memorizing a hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions or of maintaining the hairstyle for a long period of time under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair.
The present invention may also relate to the use of a combination of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener, in order to form a humidity-responsive composite.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have found that hair cosmetics having a good balance between (i) a property for keeping hairstyles for a long period of time under humid conditions and (ii) good texture when being applied onto a keratin substance such as the hair can be provided by a composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
Hereinafter, the composite according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[Composite]
The composite of the present invention comprises at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, and the concentration of the thickener must be 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite. Preferably, the composite essentially consists of or consists of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener.
The composite can be prepared from a solution comprising the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener in an aqueous medium, i.e., water and optionally a water-soluble solvent. For example, the composite can be prepared by mixing the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener in an aqueous medium such as water.
Among the water-soluble solvents, mention may be made especially of alcohol, for example lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
1,3 -butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
The composite of the present invention can be regarded as being an aggregate of the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener, such as a covalently-bonded assembly of the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener.
The composite has a humidity-responsive property. Therefore, the composite can maintain hairstyles for a long period of time under humid conditions. Furthermore, the composite can memorize the hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions. Accordingly, after the composite is applied to the hair, even if the hair becomes untidy, the hair is converted back into its original style under humid conditions.
Furthermore, in addition to the good hairstyle maintaining property, the composite can impart good texture to a cosmetic composition. Therefore, the composition can be applied to the hair very easily.
Additionally, since the composite comprises polyvinyl alcohol that is water-soluble, the composite can easily be rinsed off from the hair with water.
The total concentration of the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener may be 70% by weight or more, preferably 80% by weight or more, more preferably 90% by weight or more, and most preferably 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composite.
The composite may be comprised in a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and more preferably a hairstyling composition, in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, and 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Polyvinyl Alcohol]
The composite of the present invention comprises at least one polyvinyl alcohol.
The polyvinyl alcohol is a polymer having a vinyl alcohol unit with the following formula:
Figure imgf000005_0001
The polyvinyl alcohol can be obtained by polymerizing vinyl ester to obtain a polymer in accordance with a well-known method, followed by hydrolyzing the polymer. In the hydrolyzing step, an acid or a base is generally used. Preferably, the base is used in the hydrolyzing step. A completely-hydrolyzed polymer may be used as the polyvinyl alcohol of the present invention.
Any suitable polymerization method may be used. As examples of the polymerization method, mention may be made of a solution polymerization method,- a bulk polymerization method, and a suspension polymerization method.
As examples of the vinyl ester, mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl formate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, and vinyl benzoate.
The degree of hydrolysis and the degree of polymerization for the polyvinyl alcohol may be appropriately selected depending on the intended use.
The degree of hydrolysis may be 70% or more, preferably 75% or more, more preferably 80% or more, and most preferably 85% or more, and less than 100%, preferably 98% or less, more preferably 95% or less, and most preferably 90% or less. The degree of hydrolysis can be controlled by any suitable well-known method. In general, the degree of hydrolysis can be measured in accordance with JIS K6726.
The degree of polymerization may be 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, more preferably 500 or more, and most preferably 700 or more, and 2500 or less, preferably 2200 or less, more preferably 2000 or less, and most preferably 1800 or less. In general, the degree of polymerization can be measured in accordance with JIS K6726.
Most preferably, the vinyl ester may be vinyl acetate. Therefore, the polyvinyl alcohol comprised in the composite of the present invention may be a polymer prepared by polymerizing vinyl acetate and hydrolyzing the resultant product. Thus, the polyvinyl alcohol may be a polymer having the following unit (I):
Figure imgf000006_0001
, and the following optional unit (II):
Figure imgf000006_0002
In a preferable embodiment, the unit (II) is not present or is present in amount of 1 mol% or more, preferably 5 mol% or more, and more preferably 10 mol% or more, and 20 mol% or less, preferably 18 mol% or less, and more preferably 15 mol% or less. For example, when the unit (II) is present in an amount of 5 mol%, the degree of hydrolysis is 95%. The polyvinyl alcohol may have an average-weight molecular weight (Mw) of 10000 or more, preferably 12000 or more, and more preferably 15000 or more, and 500000 or less, preferably 300000 or less, and more preferably 200000 or less.
A derivative of polyvinyl alcohol such as anion-modified polyvinyl alcohol and cation-modified polyvinyl alcohol may be used in the present invention. As examples of the anion-modified polyvinyl alcohol, mention may be made of polyvinyl alcohol which is modified by carboxylic acid, undecylenic acid and/or sulfonic acid. For example, the carboxylic acid-modified polyvinyl alcohol may be prepared by introducing a compound comprising a carboxy group into polyvinyl alcohol by means of any suitable well-known method. As examples of the cation-modified polyvinyl alcohol, mention may be made of polyvinyl alcohol which is modified by ammonium, sulfonium and/or an amino group.
Most preferably, "SELVOL™ (Celvol®) Polyvinyl Alcohol" sold by SEKISUI may be used as the polyvinyl alcohol.
The concentration of the polyvinyl alcohol may be 60% by weight or more, preferably 70% by weight or more, more preferably 80% by weight or more, even more preferably 90% by weight or more, and most preferably 95% by weight or more, and 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 96% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composite.
[Water-soluble Thickener]
The composite of the present invention comprises at least one water-soluble thickener.
According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble" is understood to mean a thickener which, introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, results in a microscopically homogeneous solution, and the transmission of light of which, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample with a thickness of 1 cm, is at least 10%, which corresponds to an absorbance [abs = -log(transmission)] of less than 1.5.
According to the present invention, the "water-soluble thickener" may increase the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at ambient temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s-1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
The water-soluble thickener of the present invention may be chosen from thickening polymers bearing sugar units and thickening polymers not bearing sugar units, and mixtures thereof.
1. Thickening polymer bearing sugar units
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the water-soluble thickener of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
The thickening polymer bearing sugar units according to the present invention may especially include native gums such as: a) tree or shrub exudates, including:
- gum arabic (comprising a branched polymer derived from galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- ghatti gum (comprising a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);
- karaya gum (comprising a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (comprising a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums resulting from algae, including:
- agar (comprising a polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
- alginates (comprising a polymer derived of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);
- carrageenans and furcellerans (comprising a polymer derived of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums resulting from seeds or tubers, including:
- guar gum (comprising a polymer derived of mannose and galactose);
- locust bean gum (comprising a polymer derived of mannose and galactose);
- fenugreek gum (comprising a polymer derived of mannose and galactose);
- tamarind gum (comprising a polymer derived of galactose, xylose and glucose);
- konjac gum (comprising a polymer derived of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, including:
- xanthan gum (comprising a polymer derived of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (comprising a polymer derived of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- scleroglucan gum (comprising a glucose polymer); e) plant extracts, including:
- cellulose (glucose polymer);
- starch (glucose polymer) and
- inulin.
These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As a physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of heating.
Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may especially be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.
These chemical or physical treatments may be applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses. The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.
Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups may be "Jaguar HP8", "Jaguar HP60" and "Jaguar HP120" sold by Rhodia Chimie.
The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
The starches may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.
Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate may be used, for instance "Prejel VA-70-T AGGL" (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), "Prejel TK1" (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and "Prejel 200" (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) sold by Avebe, or "Structure Zea" (gelatinized com distarch phosphate) sold by National Starch.
According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular such as com, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above. The starch may be preferably derived from potato.
The cellulose may be cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose and ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and also quatemized cellulose derivatives.
2. Thickening polymer not bearing sugar units
The thickening polymer not bearing sugar units according to the present invention may be crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, alone or mixtures thereof.
A first family of the thickening polymer not bearing sugar units may be represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance, "Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984" sold by Noveon and "Synthalen M" and "Synthalen K" sold by 3 VS A. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.
The thickening polymer not bearing sugar units may also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as "Aqua SF1" sold by Noveon.
The thickening polymer not bearing sugar units may be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.
Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide, mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document regarding these polymers.
Ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide may be used.
Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned is "Microsap PAS 5193" sold by Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide that may be mentioned is "Bozepol C Nouveau" or "PAS 5193" sold by Hoechst. Reference may be made especially to FR 2416723, US 2,798,053 and US 2,923,692 regarding the description and preparation of such compounds.
Use may also be made of cationic thickening polymers of acrylic type. As other examples of the thickening polymer not bearing sugar units, mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts and esters thereof, and in particular"Versicol F®" or "Versicol K®" sold by Allied Colloid, and "Ultrahold 8®" sold by Ciba-Geigy; copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide such as that sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof under the name "Reten®" by Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate such as that sold under the name "Darvan 7®" by Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as that sold under the name "Hydagen F®" by Henkel; proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins and soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate, and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam.
Most preferably, as the water-soluble thickener, the thickening polymer bearing sugar units (i.e. polysaccharide thickeners) may be used, for example carrageenans and gum arabic. For example, "SATIAGEL™ VPC 508" sold by Cargill may be used as the carrageenans and "EFICACIA XE" sold by Nexira may be used as the gum arabic.
The concentration of the water-soluble thickener must be 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite. If the composite comprises the water-soluble thickener in an amount of more than 40% by weight, the composite cannot convert the hair back into its original form or maintain the hair curl under humid conditions.
The concentration of the water-soluble thickener may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, even more preferably 20% by weight or less, still even more preferably 15% by weight or less, and most preferably 10% by weight or less, and 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composite.
[Composition]
The present invention may also relate to a composition comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener and wherein the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener are combined to form a composite.
The composition may preferably be a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and preferably a hairstyling composition.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, fragrances, pearlescent agents, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, demulcent agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, agents for combating hair loss, antidandruff agents, propellants or ceramides, or mixtures thereof. Of course, a person skilled in the art will be sure to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and/or their amount, so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition. The composition according to the invention may have the form in particular of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution or suspension, of an oily suspension or solution, of an emulsion or dispersion with a liquid or semi-liquid consistency obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), of a dispersion or emulsion with a soft consistency, of an aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic or oily (anhydrous) gel, or also of microcapsules or microparticles, or of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type.
A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate cosmetic form, and also its preparation method, based on his/her general knowledge, by taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, and on the other hand, the application envisaged for the composition.
In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used in the hair field, especially for form retention of the hairstyle or hair shaping.
The hair compositions may preferably be shampoos, gels, hair setting lotions, blow-drying lotions, fixing and styling compositions such as lacquers or sprays. The lotions may be packaged in various forms, especially in spray, pump dispensers or in aerosol containers in order to provide application of the composition in sprayed form or in foam form.
[Process and Use]
It is preferable that the composite according to the present invention be intended for use in a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and preferably a hairstyling composition.
The composite or composition according to the present invention may be used for a process of styling the hair, the process comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair.
In particular, the composite or composition according to the present invention may be used for a process of memorizing a hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair. Also, the composite or composition according to the present invention may be used for a process of maintaining hairstyle under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair. Also, the composite or composition according to the present invention may be used for a process of converting the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite or composition according to the present invention to the hair and putting the hair back into humid conditions.
Also, the present invention may relate to a process of improving the texture of a composition, comprising adding the composite according to the present invention to the composition.
The present invention may also relate to the use of a combination of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener, in order to form a humidity-responsive composite. Another aspect of the present invention is a combination of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener, for use in forming a humidity-responsive composite.
The present invention may also relate to the use of the composite or composition according to the present invention, in order to style the hair.
In particular, the present invention may also relate to the use of the composite or composition according to the present invention, in order to (i) memorize a hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions or (ii) maintain the hairstyle under humid conditions.
Also, the present invention may relate to the use of the composite according to the present invention, in order to improve the texture of the composition.
The composite or composition according to the present invention can maintain hairstyles under humid conditions. Also, the composite or composition according to the present invention can convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions. Furthermore, the composite according to the present invention can improve the texture of the composition, for example such that the composition can easily be applied to the hair.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
Example: Effects of Inventive and Comparative Composites When Being Applied to Hair
In this example, carrageenan and Acacia Senegal gum (gum arabic) were used as the water-soluble thickener. As explained below, inventive composites were prepared from "Inventive Formulation 1" to "Inventive Formulation 3" comprising polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and one water-soluble thickener selected from carrageenan and Acacia Senegal gum, wherein the concentration of the water-soluble thickener is within the scope defined by the present invention. A comparative composite was prepared from "Comparative Formulation 1 " comprising only PVA. Also, comparative composites were prepared from "Comparative Formulation 2" and “Comparative Formulation 3" comprising PVA and the water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the water-soluble thickener is not within the scope defined by the present invention.
Each of the inventive and comparative formulations was applied to the hair, and the effects thereof on shape-memory and curl-maintaining properties as well as texture were compared.
1. Preparation of solution comprising polyvinyl alcohol
12 g of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) powder were added to 188 g of distilled water, and the mixture was stirred at 80°C in a water bath until the polyvinyl alcohol powder was completely dissolved. The mixture was cooled down while stirring until it became homogenous. The obtained 6% by weight of PVA solution was stored in a jar with a cap, and it was used within one month. 2. Preparation of inventive and comparative formulations
The inventive and comparative formulations were prepared by adding carrageenan powder or gum arabic powder and water to the 6% by weight of PVA solution such that they comprised the PVA, carrageenan powder or gum arabic powder, and water in the amounts shown in
Table 1, followed by mixing them until the powder was completely dissolved. The obtained homogenous thick solutions were used as "Inventive Formulation 1" to "Inventive Formulation 3" and "Comparative Formulation 1" to “Comparative Formulation 3". 3. Test to determine shape recovery
0.30 g of each of the inventive and comparative formulations were applied to 1 g of a Chinese bleached hair swatch. A curling iron was used at 180°C for 30 sec to dry the hair and give a shape using heat. The hair swatch was clipped with a weight of 10-15 g and was stretched overnight. After the stretching, the weight was removed and the length of the hair swatch was measured (this length corresponds to "hair length after stretching and before humidification", and it was referred to as "L1"). The stretched hair swatch was placed into a humidity chamber (80% humidity) at 30°C for 6 hr. The hair swatch was removed from the chamber and the length was measured (this length corresponds to "hair length after humidification", and it was referred to as "Lt"). A percent of shape memory property
(%SMP) was calculated in accordance with the following formula: "[(L1 - Lt)/L1] x 100".
4. Test to determine curl maintenance The length of a Chinese bleached hair swatch was measured (generally, 26.5 cm) (this length corresponds to "hair length without treatment", and it was referred to as " L' "). 0.20 g of each of the inventive and comparative formulations were applied to 2.7 g of the hair swatch.
A curling iron was used at 180°C for 20 sec to dry the hair and make curls using heat. The length of the swatch was measured (this length corresponds to "hair length after application", and it was referred to as " L0' "). The hair swatch was placed into a humidity chamber (80% humidity) at 30°C for 6 hr. The hair swatch was removed from the chamber and the length was measured (this length corresponds to "hair length after humidification", and it was referred to as " Lt ' "). Apercent of curl maintaining property was calculated in accordance with the following formula: "[(L' - Lf) / (L' - L0')] x 100".
5. Test to determine texture
The texture of each of the inventive and comparative formulations was evaluated on the basis of easiness of application to the hair. The criteria was as follows: “Very Good” means that the texture is acceptable and the formulation can be applied to the hair very easily, “Good” means that the texture is too fluid, but the formulation can be applied to the hair easily, and “Poor” means that the texture is too thick and the formulation is difficult to apply to the hair homogenously. 6. Results
The obtained results are shown in Table 1.
Figure imgf000014_0001
Inventive Formulation 1 and Comparative Formulation 2 had the same concentration of the composite in the formulations (5% by weight). However, only Inventive Formulation 1 was able to not only convert the hair back into its original form under humid conditions (a high "% of SMP") but also maintain the hair curl under humid conditions (a high "% of curl maintaining property"). Therefore, it was demonstrated that only Inventive Formulation 1 was able to form a humidity-responsive composite. This means that the ratio between PVA and the water-soluble thickener is important. Specifically, when the concentration of the water-soluble thickener was 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite, a high "% of SMP" and a high "% of curl maintaining property" could be achieved. This is also supported by the results of Inventive Formulations 2 and 3 and Comparative Formulation 3.
Furthermore, all of the inventive formulations had excellent texture. Therefore, it was demonstrated that only Inventive Formulations 1 to 3 were able to achieve a good balance between the high hairstyle maintaining properties (i.e., a high "% of SMP" and a high "% of curl maintaining property") and the excellent texture.

Claims

1. A composite comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composite.
2. The composite according to Claim 1, wherein the polyvinyl alcohol has a degree of hydrolysis of 70% or more, preferably 75% or more, more preferably 80% or more, and most preferably 85% or more, and less than 100%, preferably 98% or less, more preferably 95% or less, and most preferably 90% or less.
3. The composite according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyvinyl alcohol has a degree of polymerization of 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, more preferably 500 or more, and most preferably 700 or more, and 2500 or less, preferably 2200 or less, more preferably 2000 or less, and most preferably 1800 or less.
4. The composite according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyvinyl alcohol is a polymer having the following unit
Figure imgf000016_0001
(I): , and the following optional unit (II):
Figure imgf000016_0002
wherein the unit (II) is not present or is present in amount of 1 mol% or more, preferably 5 mol% or more, and more preferably 10 mol% or more, and 20 mol% or less, preferably 18 mol% or less, and more preferably 15 mol% or less.
5. The composite according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the water-soluble thickener is a thickening polymer bearing sugar units .
6. The composite according to Claim 5, wherein the thickening polymer bearing sugar units is carrageenans or gum arabic .
7. The composite according to according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the concentration of the water-soluble thickener may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, even more preferably 20% by weight or less, still even more preferably 15% by weight or less, and most preferably 10% by weight or less, and 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composite.
8. A process for preparing the composite according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, comprising mixing the polyvinyl alcohol and the water-soluble thickener in an aqueous medium such as water.
9. A composition comprising the composite according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, and 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. A composition comprising at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener, wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener and wherein the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener are combined to form a composite.
11. The composition according to according to Claim 9 or 10, which is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, and preferably a hairstyling composition.
12. A process of styling the hair, comprising applying the composite according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 or the composition according to any one of Claims 9 to 11 to the hair.
13. A process of memorizing a hairstyle so as to convert the hairstyle back into its original style under humid conditions or of maintaining a hairstyle for a long period of time under humid conditions, comprising applying the composite according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 or the composition according to any one of Claims 9 to 11 to the hair.
14. The use of a combination of at least one polyvinyl alcohol and at least one water-soluble thickener wherein the concentration of the thickener is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the polyvinyl alcohol and the thickener, in order to form a humidity-responsive composite.
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