WO2021028655A1

WO2021028655A1 - Solid cosmetic composition comprising vegetable butter and vegetable oil

Info

Publication number: WO2021028655A1
Application number: PCT/GB2020/051871
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mark Constantine; Margaret Joan Constantine; Helen Elizabeth Ambrosen; Rowena Jacqueline Bird; Alessandro COMMISSO
Original assignee: Cosmetic Warriors Limited
Priority date: 2019-08-09
Filing date: 2020-08-05
Publication date: 2021-02-18
Also published as: GB201911454D0

Abstract

The present invention provides a solid cosmetic composition comprising (a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil; (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and (d) one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or a mixture thereof; wherein the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 30 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition; and wherein vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

Description

SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING VEGETABLE BUTTER AND VEGETABLE OIL

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic product, a process for producing said product, and a product prepared by the method.

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to products particularly those for use in contact with the human body. The present invention relates to the increasing demand for fresh and natural cosmetics and for unpackaged cosmetics.

The rise of natural cosmetics to the pinnacle of the modern beauty industry is not a recent phenomenon. Humans have been using moisturisers since the Mesolithic era (10,000 years ago). The Sumerians combined wine, tree oils and plant, animal or mineral materials before applying to the body. The ancient Egyptian civilisation is known to have used olive oil, sesame oil, myrrh resin as well as bitter almonds, honey and cardamom to care for the skin. But it was the celebrated Roman physician Galen who created cold cream in 200 BC, by melting beeswax into rose oil then adding water.

After centuries of homemade remedies, the use of cosmetics became wide spread in the 1800’s. The rise in popular new materials like Petroleum Jelly, Mineral Oil and Lanolin allowed the development of new cosmetics and high sales volumes. These new ingredients were far less expensive than beeswax and rose oil. Products such as Hinds Honey & Almond Cream formulated in 1872 by a Pharmacist from Maine in the U.S. enabled the use of cosmetics by many more people, particularly women anxious to keep their skin soft and healthy. However it was the advent of television and the rise in advertising that led to the initial boom in the 1930’s.

Modern cosmetic products are formulated to have a very long shelf life. The shelf life of a typical product is thirty one months. However, before products reach a retail environment, they are shipped and then stored in warehouses, sometimes for years before sale. Products may be labelled with a ‘best used by date’ but without an indication of when they were made. Consequently many formulations are assembled with longevity more in mind than effect. By their liquid nature emulsions and creams are typically sold in containers to the end user and may be dispensed by the end user. However, the required use of packaging is a disadvantage. From an environmental perspective, waste packaging is a significant problem, despite the availability of recycling. Furthermore, these products are prepared many months before they are applied to the skin.

The present invention seeks to provide a solid cosmetic product which may be used to readily form a cream or lotion for contacting with the skin of a user.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In a first aspect, there is provided a solid cosmetic composition comprising

(a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil ;

(b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9;

(c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and

(d) one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or a mixture thereof; wherein the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 30 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition; and wherein vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

In a second aspect, there is provided a process for the production of a solid cosmetic composition the process comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising

(a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil ; and

(b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; ii) either

(A) preparing a second composition comprising

(c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and

(d) one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or a mixture thereof;

OR

(B) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and preparing a third composition comprising

(iii) combining the first composition with either the second composition of step (A), or combining the first composition with the second composition and the third composition of step (B), to form the solid cosmetic composition.

In a third aspect, there is provided a product obtained or obtainable by a process as described herein.

In a fourth aspect, there is provided a cosmetic method comprising contacting the skin of a user with a cosmetic prepared from a solid cosmetic composition as described herein and water.

For ease of reference, these and further aspects of the present invention are now discussed under appropriate section headings. However, the teachings under each section are not necessarily limited to each particular section.

Advantages

We have identified that by providing a solid cosmetic composition as described herein a solid product may be delivered to the end user in a form which does not require sale or transportation in packaging. The user may then apply water to the surface of this product and by agitation of the water on the surface of the product may form a ‘fresh’ emulsion that may then be used as a cosmetic. The emulsion may be a cream or lotion such as those known to the user. Thereby, the present invention provides the multiple advantages of avoidance of unnecessary packaging, avoidance of transportation of water present in a cream or lotion product and allowing for the preparation of a fresh product. Furthermore, in view of the lower water content which may be possible in the solid product of the present invention, growth of microorganisms is inhibited. This inhibition of growth through the reduction of water allows for the product to be free from the preservatives that would otherwise be necessary to avoid spoilage of a water-containing cream or lotion. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

Composition

As discussed herein, in one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a solid cosmetic composition comprising

(a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil ;

(b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9;

(c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and

It will be understood by one skilled in the art that the nature of a cosmetic product means that the product is not edible. Thus in a further aspect the present invention provides a non edible solid cosmetic composition comprising

(a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil ;

(b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9;

(c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and

The solid products of the present invention are compositions which can substantially sustain their physical shape when unsupported by external means, e.g. packaging etc. Thus, they are considered to be solid, solid-like, in solid form or in solid-like form at room temperature. For the avoidance of doubt the solid product must remain substantially solid at up to 30 °C.

By solid-like, it is understood that some materials are considered on a day to day basis to be solid, yet over an extremely long period of time, may alter in shape, e.g. amorphous materials such as glass etc. However, they are considered to be solid-like as, for the purpose they fulfil, they are solid.

Due to the solid form of the compositions of the present invention, external packaging is not required to maintain the shape of the composition.

The vegetable butters used in the present invention are triglycerides, which are found to be solid (including solid-like, discussed above) at normal usage temperatures. The term vegetable butter is understood by one skilled in the art and means a triglyceride obtainable from vegetable source which has the consistency of a butter. For the avoidance of doubt the vegetable butter is a triglyceride which remains substantially solid at up to 30 °C. It will be appreciated however that it is not a requirement that the vegetable butter have a solid fat content of 100% at normal usage temperatures. In a preferred aspect the vegetable butter is a triglyceride having a solid fat content of at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, preferably at least 98%, preferably at least 99% at 25 °C.

The vegetable oils used in the present invention are triglycerides, which are found to be liquid at normal usage temperatures. For the avoidance of doubt the vegetable oil is a triglyceride which remains substantially liquid at up to 30 °C. It will be appreciated however that it is not a requirement that the vegetable butter have a solid fat content of 0% at normal usage temperatures. In a preferred aspect the vegetable oil is a triglyceride having a solid fat content of no greater than 30%, preferably no greater than 20%, preferably no greater than 10%, preferably no greater than 5%, preferably no greater than 2%, preferably no greater than 1% at 25 °C.

In one aspect the composition of the present invention is made by moulding of the product. A typical process comprises the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; and (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9, wherein the first composition is at a temperature at which it is liquid; ii) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20, wherein the second composition is at a temperature at which it is liquid; and (iii) combining the first composition with the second composition, placing in a mould and allowing to solidify to form the solid cosmetic composition. Vegetable Butter and Vegetable Oil

As discussed herein, the present composition contains vegetable butter and vegetable oil . In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 30 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 35 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 40 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 45 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 50 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 55 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 60 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 65 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 70 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 75 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 80 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 85 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 30 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 35 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 40 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 45 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 50 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 55 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 60 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 65 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 70 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 75 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 80 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 85 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

The vegetable oil, vegetable butter or mixture thereof may be selected from any suitable vegetable oils and vegetable butters. In one aspect, the vegetable butter, vegetable oil or mixture thereof is selected from Cocoa butter, lllipe butter, Murumuru butter, Kokum butter, Aloe butter, Avocado butter, Cupuacu butter, Macadamia Nut butter, Mango butter, Olive butter, Shea butter, Coconut butter, Pumpkin Seed butter, Peanut butter, Almond butter, Coffee Bean butter, Refined butter, Hemp Seed butter, Mochacchino butter, Pistachio Nut butter, Shealoe butter, almond oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, argan oil, moringa oil, baobab oil, rose hip oil, kalahari melon oil, brazil nut oil and mixtures thereof. In one aspect, the vegetable butter, vegetable oil or mixture thereof is selected from lllipe butter, Kokum butter, Cupuacu butter, Shea butter, almond oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.

The vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 35 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 40 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 45 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 50 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 55 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 60 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 65 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 70 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 75 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 35 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 40 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 45 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 50 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 55 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 60 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 65 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

The vegetable butter may be selected from cocoa butter, illipe butter, murumuru butter, kokum butter, aloe butter, avocado butter, cupuacu butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, olive butter, shea butter, coconut butter, pumpkin seed butter, peanut butter, almond butter, coffee bean butter, refined butter, hemp seed butter, mochacchino butter, pistachio nut butter, shealoe butter and mixtures thereof. In one aspect, the vegetable butter, is selected from Illipe butter, Kokum butter, Cupuacu butter, Shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

If present, the vegetable oil may be present in any suitable amount. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 2 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 3 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 45 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 45 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 45 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 40 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 40 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 40 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 40 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 35 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 35 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 35 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 35 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 25 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 25 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 25 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 25 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 15 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 15 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 15 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

The vegetable oil may be selected from almond oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, argan oil, moringa oil, baobab oil, rose hip oil, kalahari melon oil, brazil nut oil and mixtures thereof. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is selected from almond oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof. First Emulsifier

As discussed herein the present composition comprises a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9. As will be understood by one skilled in the art HLB is the hydrophilic- lipophilic balance of a surfactant is a measure of the degree to which it is hydrophilic or lipophilic. The HLB value may be determined by calculating values for the different regions of the molecule, as described by Griffin in Griffin, William C. (1949), "Classification of Surface-Active Agents by 'HLB'" (PDF), Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1 (5): 311-26 and Griffin, William C. (1954), "Calculation of HLB Values of Non-Ionic Surfactants" (PDF), Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 5 (4): 249-56, and by Davies in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent" (PDF), Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface, Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity, pp. 426-38. HLB value may be determined in accordance with the industry standard text book, namely “The HLB SYSTEM, a time-saving guide to emulsifier selection” ICI Americas Inc., Published 1976 and Revised, March, 1980. The HLB values of the emulsifiers described herein were determined in accordance with this standard method.

In one aspect the first emulsifier has a HLB value of from 3 to 9. In one aspect the first emulsifier has a HLB value of from 4 to 9. In one aspect the first emulsifier has a HLB value of from 4.3 to 9.

The first emulsifier may be selected from any suitable emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9. In one aspect the first emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9 selected from mono and diglycerydes of fatty acid including glyceryl stearate and glyceryl oleate; fatty acid esters of C12-C22 fatty alcohols including fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol, mixtures of fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol, mixtures of fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol wherein the fatty acids are derived from olive oil (such as cetearly olivate), fatty acid esters of sorbitol including sorbitan oleate, fatty acid esters of sorbitol wherein the fatty acids are derived from olive oil (such as sorbitan olivate or cetearyl olivate), and mixtures thereof

In one aspect the first emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9 selected from mono and diglycerydes of fatty acid, fatty acid esters of C12-C22 fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of sorbitol, and mixtures thereof The first emulsifier may be present in any suitable amount. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 18 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 16 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 14 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 12 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 8 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 7 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 3 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 4 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 6 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 18 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 16 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 14 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 12 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

Second Emulsifier

As discussed herein the present composition comprises a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 19. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 18. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 13. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 17. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 16. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 15. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 14. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 13. In one aspect, the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 12.

The second emulsifier may be selected from any suitable emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20 selected from fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, such as fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol wherein the fatty acids are derived from coconut oil (including PEG 7), fatty acid esters of polyglycerol including fatty acid esters of polyglycerol and oleic acid (such as polyglyceryl 10 oleate), and mixtures thereof. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20 selected from fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

The second emulsifier may be present in any suitable amount. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 18 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 16 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 14 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 12 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 3 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 4 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 6 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 7 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 8 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 18 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 16 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 14 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 12 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

Gelling/Thickening Agent

The composition comprises (d) one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or a mixture thereof. In one aspect the composition further comprises one or more gelling agents. In one aspect the composition further comprises one or more thickening agents. In one aspect the composition further comprises a mixture of one or more gelling agents and one or more thickening agents.

The gelling agent or thickening agent may be selected from any suitable gelling agents or thickening agents. The gelling agent or thickening agent is typically selected such that, in combination with the emulsifiers of the present composition, an emulsion may be formed by agitating the solid composition with water without the need to apply heat. For example, an emulsion may be formed by agitating the solid composition with water at room temperature. Small amounts of heat energy may result from the action of the agitation. However, no additional heat is required.

The gelling agent or thickening agent may be selected from any suitable gelling agents and or thickening agents. In some embodiments, the gelling agent is a hydrocolloid gelling agent. In some embodiments, the thickening agent is a hydrocolloid thickening agent. As the skilled person will appreciate, hydrocolloids are a heterogeneous group of long chain polymers characterised by their property of forming viscous dispersions and/or gels when dispersed in water. Some hydrocolloids have the ability to modify the rheology of compositions comprising water. However, there are two distinct types of hydrocolloid: gelling agents (i.e. those that modify the texture and/or solidity of the composition) and thickening agents (i.e. those that modify the viscosity of the composition). The water- thickening property is common to all hydrocolloids, whilst only a few hydrocolloids have the ability to form gels (i.e. to act as a gelling agent). Gel formation is typically regarded as the phenomenon involving the association or cross-linking of the polymer chains to form a three-dimensional network that traps or immobilises the water within it to form a rigid structure that is resistant to flow. In other words, the composition becomes viscoelastic exhibiting both the characteristics of a liquid and a solid. In contrast, thickening of a composition merely involves the non-specific entanglement of conformationally disordered polymer chains, and is essentially a polymer-solvent interaction (see, for example, D. Saha and S. Bhattacharya, J. Food Sci. Technol., 2010, 47(6): 597-597).

Gels may be defined as a form of matter intermediate between solid and liquid, and which show mechanical rigidity. They comprise polymer molecules cross-linked to form a tangled and interconnected molecular network immersed in a liquid medium. The word “gel” typically refers to high moisture compositions that substantially sustain their physical shape when released from their container. More specifically, gels are viscoelastic systems with a storage modulus (G’) larger than the loss modulus (G”). Though all hydrocolloids may thicken aqueous dispersions, only a comparatively few gums are understood to form gels. Hydrocolloids that may act as gelling agents include modified starch, agar, carrageenan, pectin, gellan gum, alginate (when combined with calcium ions), methyl cellulose, and hydroxylpropyl methylcellulose. Hydrocolloids such as xanthan gum, guar gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth and gum Arabic are known thickening agents, but are not generally regarded as being gelling agents.

In some embodiments, the gelling agent may be selected from the group consisting of carrageenan, agar, pectin, a combination of a salt of alginic acid and calcium ions, calcium alginate, gellan gum, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, modified starch, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the gelling agent may be selected from the group consisting of carrageenan, agar, pectin, a combination of a salt of alginic acid and calcium ions, calcium alginate, gellan gum, and mixtures thereof. The salt of alginic acid may be selected from sodium alginate, potassium alginate, ammonium alginate, magnesium alginate, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the salt of alginic acid is sodium alginate, which is combined with a source of calcium ions in order to form the gel.

As the skilled person will appreciate, carrageenan is traditionally split into three basic forms: lambda-carrageenan, kappa-carrageenan and iota-carrageenan. It has been found by the present inventors that kappa-carrageenan and/or iota-carrageenan may provide for an improved gelling effect as compared with that of lambda-carrageenan. Therefore, in some embodiments, the carrageenan is kappa-carrageenan or iota-carrageenan. Therefore, in some embodiments, the gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of kappa- carrageenan, iota-carrageenan, agar, pectin, a combination of a salt of alginic acid and calcium ions, calcium alginate, gellan gum, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the gelling agent is or comprises gellan gum. The gellan gum may be high acyl gellan gum and/or low acyl gellan gum. As the skilled person will appreciate, gellan gum is a straight chain polymer that comprises repeating units of glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acids. “High acyl” gellan gum has two acyl substituents, acetate and glycerate, that are located on the glucose residues. On average, there is one glycerate per repeat unit and one acetate every two repeat units when both are located on the same glucose residue. Deacylated (or “low acyl”) gellan gum has these acyl groups removed during processing. In some embodiments, the gelling agent is or comprises high acyl gellan gum. In some embodiments, the gelling agent is or comprises low acyl gellan gum.

As described hereinabove, the term “gelling agent” as used herein does not encompass hydrocolloids that act as thickening agents, but which do not enable the formation of viscoelastic gels. Therefore, as used herein, the term “gelling agent” does not encompass hydrocolloids such as xanthan gum, guar gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth and gum Arabic. For example, xanthan gum is understood to be a thickening agent that thickens compositions when added during cold processing (i.e. when heat is not applied). However, xanthan gum is understood to not provide any additional gelling effect when a composition is produced by hot and/or cold processes.

Without being bound by theory, it has been found that kappa-carrageenan may form more rigid and brittle gels which have a tendency to spontaneously release fluids (syneresis) under certain conditions. On the other hand, iota-carrageenan has been found to form a soft and elastic gel which does not present such syneresis. It is thus particularly preferred if the gelling agent comprises or consists of iota-carrageenan. In some embodiments, the gelling agent consists of iota-carrageenan; i.e. iota-carrageenan is the only gelling agent used in the composition.

The thickening agent may be selected from any suitable thickening agent. In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, guar gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or mixture thereof is selected from guar gum, cationic guar gum, arabic gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, alginate such as sodium alginate, xanthan gum, konjac, carrageenan, pectin and mixtures thereof.

The one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or mixture thereof may be present in any suitable amount. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 8 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 6 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 4 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 3 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 8 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 6 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 4 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 3 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 1 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 2 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 3 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 1 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 2 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 3 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

Additional Components

The solid product of the present invention may also comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable additives. The person skilled in the art is aware of a range of cosmetically acceptable additives which are suitable for incorporation into such compositions, for example, binders, fillers, opacifiers, perfumes, fragrances, decorative items, organic pigments inorganic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

We have found that the present solid cosmetic composition allows the incorporating of materials that would normally settle out of or precipitate in a liquid cream or lotion. By providing these materials within the solid cosmetic composition they may be incorporated into the liquid product when water is added. This is a further advantage of the formation by application of water and agitation of a ‘fresh’ emulsion that may then be used as a cosmetic.

It is particularly preferred that the composition of the present invention further comprises a fragrance. Preferably the fragrance is selected from essential oils. In one aspect, the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 8 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 6 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 4 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 3 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 2 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 1 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. Fruit and herb extracts and juices, vegetable oils and essential oils are all compatible with the composition. In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable additives are selected from the group consisting of essential oils, vitamins, fragrances, colourings, clays, decorative articles, and mixtures thereof.

The essential oils may be selected based on the fragrance desired, skin type to be treated and other effects desired based on the well-known properties of essential oils. The addition of essential oils, when taken in to the nose, are known to alter mood. For example, essential oils are known to create effects of drowsiness or stimulating the senses. Many well documented effects can be achieved by the use of essential oils.

In one embodiment, the one or more essential oils present in the solid product are selected from Tarragon, Lemon myrtle, Jasmin, Ylang ylang, Labdunum, Lemongrass, Rose otto, Grapefruit, Patchouli, Rosemary, Armois, Lemon, Neroli, Sweet violet, Lavender, Orange 50 fold, Vanilla, Peppermint, Benzoin, Hydrangia, Litsea Cubeba, Cardamon, Tonka, and Chamomile blue. In one embodiment, the one or more essential oils present in the solid product are selected from Tarragon, Lemon myrtle, Labdunum, and Lemon.

Vitamins, particularly B, C and E are very beneficial for the skin. Vitamin rich ingredients such as Wheatgerm oil can also be used to deliver vitamins on to the skin. In a one embodiment, the vitamins are selected from vitamin B, vitamin C, vitamin E and mixtures thereof. It will be appreciated by one skilled in the art that the vitamin may be provided from any suitable source. For example the vitamin(s) may be provided from a synthetic source or from incorporation into the solid product of a material, such as a natural material, that has a high vitamin content.

The ingredients in the present invention do not require cosmetic preservatives. The use of cosmetic preservatives can increase the potential to irritate the skin.

The decorative items which may be present in the solid product include items such as glitter, paper such as rice paper, sequins, dried or fresh flowers, herbs, vegetables, parts thereof or mixtures thereof. Other enhancing materials may also be incorporated

Further preferred additive materials include vegetable oils, chocolate, herbs and spices, cosmetic colours (e.g. paprika, gardenia extract, D&C red no. 30), beans (e.g. aduki), fruit, fresh or dried (e.g. banana, avocado, mango, papaya, kiwi, raspberry, strawberry, blueberries, grapes, tomato, asparagus, or cucumber), honey, glycerin, cosmetic glitter, other vegetable butters (e.g. mango, avocado), clays (e.g. kaolin), starches (e.g. corn starch), popping candy and mixtures thereof.

The above ranges provide preferred amounts of each of the components. Each of these ranges may be taken alone or combined with one or more other component ranges to provide a preferred aspect of the invention.

In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 10% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 8% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 7% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 6% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 5% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 3% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 2.5% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 2% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition.

In one aspect the solid composition of the present invention may also comprise one or more waxes. We have found that when the composition comprises vegetable butter in low amounts, the presence of a wax improves the solidity of the product. Thus, in one aspect the composition contains vegetable butter in an amount of less than 0.1 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition, and further comprises a wax.

In one aspect the one or more waxes are selected from carnauba wax, candelilla, Japan wax, beeswax, rapeseed wax, sunflower wax, orange peel wax, rose wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ozocerite wax and mixtures thereof.

Process

As discussed herein, the invention provides a process for the production of a solid cosmetic composition as defined herein the process comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil ; and

(b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; ii) either

(A) preparing a second composition comprising

(c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and

OR

(B) preparing a second composition comprising

(c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and preparing a third composition comprising

As discussed herein the composition of the present invention may be made by moulding of the product. A typical process comprises the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; and (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9, wherein the first composition is at a temperature at which it is liquid; ii) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20, wherein the second composition is at a temperature at which it is liquid; and (iii) combining the first composition with the second composition, placing in a mould and allowing to solidify to form the solid cosmetic composition.

The shape of the solid products of the present invention is not limited. It may be that the solid products are provided with a shape which would be aesthetically pleasing and / or which aids in the use of the product. For example, it may be that the solid product is produced in such a manner so that it solidifies in a shape which is ergonomically acceptable to the user. Products which are approximately spherical, cuboidal or cylindrical are each envisaged. The present invention also provides a product obtained or obtainable by a process as described herein.

Method

In one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method comprising contacting the skin of a user a cosmetic prepared by contacting water with the solid cosmetic composition as defined herein. In a typical method, water is contacted with the surface of the solid cosmetic composition and is agitated, for example by the finger of the user. The agitation melts solid cosmetic composition and mixes it with the water to form an emulsion. The emulsion may then be applied to the skin of the user. Typically the solid cosmetic composition forms a moisturiser when agitated with water at 20 °C. The cosmetic emulsion formed may be a moisturiser.

We have found that during the formation of the cosmetic product in the present method, this solid cosmetic composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; and (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20, allows the for the incorporation of a gelling agent or thickening agent which in use is gradually released allowing the user to create creams having a consistent viscosity each time water is applied.

Further Aspects

In a further aspect, there is provided a solid cosmetic composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; and (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20.

In a further aspect, there is provided a process for the production of a solid cosmetic composition as defined herein the process comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; and (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; ii) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and (iii) combining the first composition with the second composition of step to form the solid cosmetic composition. In a further aspect, there is provided a product obtained or obtainable by a process comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; and (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; ii) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and (iii) combining the first composition with the second composition of step to form the solid cosmetic composition.

In a further aspect, there is provided a cosmetic method comprising contacting the skin of a user with a cosmetic prepared from a solid cosmetic composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; and (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20.

In one aspect, the composition comprises at least vegetable butter. In one aspect, the composition comprises at least vegetable oil. In one aspect, the composition comprises a mixture of vegetable butter and vegetable oil.

If present, the vegetable butter may be present in any suitable amount. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 98 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 35 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 40 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 45 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 50 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 55 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 60 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 65 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 70 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 75 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 80 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 85 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 35 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 40 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 45 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 50 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 55 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 60 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 65 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 70 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 75 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 80 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 85 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

Example

The invention will now be described with reference to the following non-limiting examples.

Examples 1-13

The following compositions were prepared:

27

The compositions were prepared in accordance with the following method:

1. A was heated until completely melted.

2. A was allowed to cool to room temperature.

3. A was optionally tempered by heating and cooling again.

4. B was mixed together before adding with A and the resultant combination was mixed.

5. C was added to the AB mixture and the resultant ABC was mixed.

6. The mixture was poured into moulds and left to set.

Each of the products was formulated so as to provide a moisturiser for the face. A summary of the compositions and the observations found in use is provided below.

Examples 14-16

As noted above each of the products of examples 1-13 was formulated to provide moisturiser for the face. Further cosmetic products in accordance with the present invention may be provided. For example, the following compositions may be prepared

Example 14 - Body Conditioner

Example 15 - Texturising hair clay

Example 16 - Hair Cream

Each of the compositions of Examples 14-16 is prepared in accordance with the following method:

1. A was heated until completely melted.

2. A was allowed to cool to room temperature.

3. A was optionally tempered by heating and cooling again.

5. C and D were added to the AB mixture and the resultant ABCD was mixed.

6. The mixture was poured into moulds and left to set. Various modifications and variations of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention. Although the invention has been described in connection with specific preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the invention as claimed should not be unduly limited to such specific embodiments. Indeed, various modifications of the described modes for carrying out the invention which are obvious to those skilled in chemistry, biology or related fields are intended to be within the scope of the following claims.

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition comprising

(a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil ;

(b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9;

(c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and

2. A solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1 wherein the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 30 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

3. A solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 60 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

4. A solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , 2 or 3 wherein the vegetable butter, vegetable oil or mixture thereof is selected from Cocoa butter, lllipe butter, Murumuru butter, Kokum butter, Aloe butter, Avocado butter, Cupuacu butter, Macadamia Nut butter, Mango butter, Olive butter, Shea butter, Coconut butter, Pumpkin Seed butter, Peanut butter, Almond butter, Coffee Bean butter, Refined butter, Hemp Seed butter, Mochacchino butter, Pistachio Nut butter, Shealoe butter, almond oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, argan oil, moringa oil, baobab oil, rose hip oil, kalahari melon oil, brazil nut oil and mixtures thereof.

5. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 comprising vegetable butter in an amount of from 50 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

6. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the vegetable butter is selected from cocoa butter, illipe butter, murumuru butter, kokum butter, aloe butter, avocado butter, cupuacu butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, olive butter, shea butter, coconut butter, pumpkin seed butter, peanut butter, almond butter, coffee bean butter, refined butter, hemp seed butter, mochacchino butter, pistachio nut butter, shealoe butter and mixtures thereof.

7. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 comprising vegetable oil in an amount of from 5 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

8. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 comprising vegetable oil in an amount of from 10 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

9. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein the vegetable oil is selected from almond oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, argan oil, moringa oil, baobab oil, rose hip oil, kalahari melon oil, brazil nut oil and mixtures thereof.

10. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the first emulsifier has a HLB value of from 4 to 9.

11. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the first emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9 selected from mono and diglycerydes of fatty acid including glyceryl stearate and glyceryl oleate; fatty acid esters of C12-C22 fatty alcohols including fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol, mixtures of fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol, mixtures of fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol wherein the fatty acids are derived from olive oil (such as cetearly olivate), fatty acid esters of sorbitol including sorbitan oleate, fatty acid esters of sorbitol wherein the fatty acids are derived from olive oil (such as sorbitan olivate or cetearyl olivate), and mixtures thereof

12. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

13. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 wherein the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

14. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 wherein the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 13.

15. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 wherein the second emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20 selected from fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, such as fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol wherein the fatty acids are derived from coconut oil (including PEG 7), fatty acid esters of polyglycerol including fatty acid esters of polyglycerol and oleic acid (such as polyglyceryl 10 oleate),and mixtures thereof

16. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 wherein the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

17. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 wherein the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

18. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 wherein the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

19. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 wherein the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 3 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

20. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 wherein the one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or mixture thereof is selected from guar gum, cationic guar gum, arabic gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, alginate such as sodium alginate, xanthan gum, konjac, carrageenan, pectin and mixtures thereof.

21 . A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20 further comprising at least one additional components selected from binders, fillers, opacifiers, perfumes, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

22. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 containing water in an amount of less than 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.

23. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22 wherein the composition contains vegetable butter in an amount of less than 0.1 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition, and further comprises a wax.

24. A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23 wherein the composition forms a moisturiser when agitated with water at 20 °C.

25. A process for the production of a solid cosmetic composition as defined in claims 1 to 24 the process comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising

(a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil ; and

(b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; ii) either

(A) preparing a second composition comprising

(c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and

OR

(B) preparing a second composition comprising

26. A product obtained or obtainable by the process of claim 25.

27. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic emulsion the process comprising the step of contacting a solid cosmetic composition as defined in claims 1 to 24 with water and agitating the water and solid cosmetic composition.

28. A process according to claim 27 wherein the cosmetic emulsion is a moisturiser.