WO2021016684A1 - Cosmetic composition, process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition, process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021016684A1
WO2021016684A1 PCT/BR2019/050311 BR2019050311W WO2021016684A1 WO 2021016684 A1 WO2021016684 A1 WO 2021016684A1 BR 2019050311 W BR2019050311 W BR 2019050311W WO 2021016684 A1 WO2021016684 A1 WO 2021016684A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
compounds
composition
weight
present
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/BR2019/050311
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Cyrus ANDRIOLO
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to BR112021024030A priority Critical patent/BR112021024030A2/en
Priority to PCT/BR2019/050311 priority patent/WO2021016684A1/en
Priority to EP19752071.1A priority patent/EP4003289A1/en
Publication of WO2021016684A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021016684A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising
  • the present invention is also related to a process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use.
  • UV ultraviolet
  • UVA/UVB cosmetic compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
  • the degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB).
  • cosmetic compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • tinted cosmetic compositions that can provide sunscreen protection to the skin as well as skin color correction, resulting in an effect similar to a make-up foundation, and which do not transfer to other objects or materials after application to the skin, particularly the skin of the face.
  • the inventors developed a cosmetic composition with high SPF, a pigment system and film-forming polymers, which provides a tinted cosmetic composition that transfers as little as possible to other materials and objects after application to the skin, particularly the skin of the face.
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising
  • the present invention is also related to a process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use.
  • the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition for the manufacture of a product to be used as tinted sunscreen daily product.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
  • composition according to the invention presents enhanced anti-oiliness properties, high SPF values, dry touch to the skin after application combined with matt effect and no white film formation. Also, the tinted cosmetic composition of the present invention does not transfer or dirties clothes, cell phones and others, leaving the facial skin with a uniform color right after the application and throughout the day.
  • the pigment system is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8.0% by weight, more preferably about 1 .5% to about 7.0% by weight, most preferably about 2.5% to about 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the pigment system of the present invention comprises coated and uncoated pigments.
  • the amount of coated pigments present is such mixture is from 0.1 % to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the amount of uncoated pigments present in such mixture is from 0.1 % to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention has an amount of UV filter system from about 0.1 % to about 50% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 40% by weight, more preferably about 7.5% to about 30% by weight, most preferably about 10% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the film forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .0% to about 4.5% by weight, more preferably about 1 .5% to about 4.0% by weight, most preferably about 2.0% to about 3.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the film-forming polymer is a mixture of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene and acrylates copolymer
  • the amount of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene present is such mixture is from 0.1 % to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the amount of acrylates copolymer present in such mixture is from 0.1 % to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the pigment system of the present invention comprises coated pigments selected from the group of iron oxide(s) (and) perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane, titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane, and combinations thereof.
  • the pigments system of the present invention comprises uncoated pigments selected from the group of titanium dioxide, iron oxide(s) and combinations thereof.
  • the UV filter system of the present invention comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group of inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the UV filter system comprises at least one organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a- alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cyst
  • the UV filter system of the present invention is selected from the group of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, homosalate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, silica (and) titanium dioxide, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate, and combinations thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer of the present invention is a mixture of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene and acrylates copolymer.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, buffering, masking and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor ranging from 30 to 99.
  • the sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90 and 99.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 40. In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 50.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 60.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 70.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 80.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 90.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 99.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily tinted product for the skin, particularly as a tinted sunscreen.
  • the present invention is directed to a process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition the manufacture of a product to be used as tinted sunscreen daily product.
  • the expression“at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a pigment system which comprises coated pigments or/and uncoated pigments.
  • Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as those described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, vol. 105, p.53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surface-active agents, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, (titanium or aluminum) metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature such as those described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, vol. 105, p.53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surface-active agents, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron
  • Coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with silica such as the product, silica and iron oxide, silica and alumina, alumina such as the products, alumina and aluminum stearate, alumina and aluminum laurate, iron oxide and iron stearate, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, silica, alumina and silicone, silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and silicone, alumina and silicone, etc.
  • silica such as the product, silica and iron oxide, silica and alumina, alumina such as the products, alumina and aluminum stearate, alumina and aluminum laurate, iron oxide and iron stearate, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, silica, alumina and silicone, silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and silicone, alumina and silicone, etc.
  • metal oxides may also be mentioned, especially titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the silica-coated equiponderous mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, as well as the alumina-silica- and silicone-coated mixture of titanium oxide and zinc dioxide, or the alumina-, silica- and glycerin-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide.
  • Uncoated pigments like titanium oxides, zinc oxides and cerium oxide may be used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • Non-limitative examples of uncoated pigments are iron oxides, titanium oxides, zinc oxides and cerium oxide.
  • examples of iron oxides may be yellow, red and black iron oxides.
  • the pigment system of the present invention is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8.0% by weight, more preferably about 1 .5% to about 7.0% by weight, most preferably about 2.5% to about 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting suitable UV filters of the present invention could be as follows:
  • oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.
  • Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as
  • cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.
  • Beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives
  • Suitable beta, beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, octocrylene and etocrylene.
  • benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 , benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.
  • Suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured.
  • Suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl- phenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion.
  • triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-S triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY,
  • An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, methyl anthranilate.
  • An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15.
  • An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4, 4-diphenyl-butadiene.
  • benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 3% to about 25% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 20% by weight, and most preferably about 7% to about 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • The“water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4- Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference; and cinnamido amine
  • the salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2- hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts.
  • Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used.
  • the sodium salt is preferably used.
  • the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, and most preferably about 1 % to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the suitable UV filter system of the present invention is preferably selected from the group of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, homosalate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, silica (and) titanium dioxide, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate, and combinations thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention has an amount of UV filter system from about 0.1 % to about 50% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 40% by weight, more preferably about 5% to about 30% by weight, most preferably about 10% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the film forming polymer system of the present invention comprises hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, acrylates copolymer and mixtures thereof.
  • the film forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .0% to about 4.5% by weight, more preferably about 1 .5% to about 4.0% by weight, most preferably about 2.0% to about 3.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the film-forming polymer is a mixture of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene and acrylates copolymer
  • the amount of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene present is such mixture is from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the amount of acrylates copolymer present in such mixture is from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise additional polymers.
  • the suitable additional polymers of the present invention are selected from rheology modifier polymers and anionic polymers which may be water-soluble or water-dispersible at a pH of 7 and at room temperature (25°C). According to the present invention, the suitable polymers of the present invention could be as follows.
  • the rheology modifier polymers are pre-neutralized and preferably selected from taurate polymers.
  • Such polymers comprise an ionic monomer portion, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as a further, less polar monomer portion (vinylpyrrolidone or beheneth-25 methacrylate).
  • AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid
  • VPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid
  • These polymers are used as thickener and as stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions and form extremely stable emulsions already at low concentrations.
  • these polymers can be used in conjunction with almost any oil phase, comprising silicone oils, hydrocarbons/waxes and ester oils.
  • taurate polymers are acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer (such as Stabylen 30), acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (such as Pemulen TR1 and TR2), carbomers (Aqua SF-1 ), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (such as Aristoflex AVC), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (such as Aristoflex HMB), acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer (such as Structure 3001 ), polyacrylamide (such as Sepigel 305), non-ionic thickener (such as Aculyn 46), or mixtures thereof.
  • acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer such as Stabylen 30
  • acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer such as Pemulen TR1 and TR
  • Acrylic polymer powders useful in the invention include, for example, acrylic polymer powders such as methyl methacrylate crosspolymer.
  • Anionic polymers may be polymers with anionic groups distributed along the polymer backbone.
  • Anionic groups which may include carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate, nitrate, or other negatively charged or ionizable groupings, may be disposed upon groups pendant from the backbone or may be incorporated in the backbone itself.
  • the anionic polymers may comprise at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
  • the copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:
  • Ri is chosen from H or Chb or C2H5, providing acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or ethacrylic acid monomers, and
  • Non-limiting examples of (Cio-C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are for example chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
  • crosslinked polymers may be chosen according to further exemplary embodiments.
  • such polymers may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
  • R2 is chosen from H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • acrylate/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate copolymers such as the products PEMULEN TR1 , PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382 and CARBOPOL EDT 2020 may be chosen.
  • Anionic polymers useful herein include, for example: polyacrylic acid; polymethacrylic acid; parboxyvinylpolymer; acrylate copolymers such as pcrylate/Cio- 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylic acid/vinyl ester copolymer/acrylatesninyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, and acrylate/celeth-20 itaconate copolymer; sulfonate polymers such as polysulfonic acid, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid, and copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid; carboxymethycellulose; carboxy guar gum; copolymers of ethylene and maleic
  • the anionic polymers include, for example, Carbomer and CARBOPOL 980; acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer such as Pemulen TR-1 , PEMULEN TR-2, CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382, and CARBOPOL ETD 2020; sodium carboxymethylcellulose such as CMC series; and acrylate copolymer such Capigel; acrylates copolymer such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF- 1 as an aqueous dispersion, and acrylates crosspolymer-4 such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 as an aqueous dispersion.
  • Carbomer and CARBOPOL 980 acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer such as Pemulen TR-1 , PEMULEN TR-2, CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382, and CARBOPOL ETD 2020; sodium carboxymethylcellulose such as CMC series; and acrylate copolymer such Capigel;
  • the anionic polymer of the invention is carbomer such as CARBOPOL 980.
  • Exemplary of non-ionic polymers could be as follows:
  • hydroxyethylcellulose for instance the product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC or NATROSOL 250 HHR CS;
  • celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain examples that may be mentioned include:
  • hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100; methyl hydroxyethylcellulose; methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, known as the product STRUCTURE CEL 8000 M; or hydroxypropyl cellulose, known as the product KLUCEL MF PHARM HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSE;
  • groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), or the product BERMOCOLL E
  • alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether); or
  • hydroxypropyl guars such as hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain).
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, pigments, buffering, masking and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
  • Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, kaolin, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon- 66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, silica silylate, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.
  • mica, silica, kaolin, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon- 66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethi
  • composition of the present invention may comprise polymeric fillers such as polylactic acid.
  • Non-limiting suitable fatty compounds of the present invention include isononyl isonanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl n-lauroylsarcosinate and stearyl alcohol.
  • Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, water, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 100% by weight, or from about 20 to about 80% by weight, or from about 30 to about 70% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 70% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 65% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of additional surfactants suitable for use are fatty acids, glyceryl esters in addition to glyceryl stearate, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, such as stearic acid, laureth-12, laureth-21 , glyceryl isostearate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, poloxamer 338, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof.
  • Exemplary of fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, esters, fatty acids, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbons/paraffins, such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid silicones mineral oil, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone and caprylyl methicone.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from 60% to 85%, such as from 60% to 82% or such as from 65 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • a non-limitative process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise the following steps:
  • Example 1 A suitable composition according to the state of the art is as Example 1 and a suitable composition according to the present invention is as Examples 2 to 10, as follows:
  • Example 3 In order to evaluate the beneficiales to the consumer of the present invention (Example 3), a test was performed, in which interviews were conducted with 165 women users of tinted facial sunscreen from ages 18 to 55 with oily skin and combination skin. For such interviews, the performance and customer satisfaction were evaluated after 7 days of daily application of the inventive cosmetic composition.
  • the present cosmetic composition has a light texture (95% of volunteers), controlled the glow and oiliness of facial skin (around 92% of volunteers), and leaves the skin of the face with natural aspect throughout the day (94% of volunteers).

Abstract

The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising (a) a pigment system, which comprises coated pigments or/and uncoated pigments, (b) a UV filter system, and (c) film-forming polymers. The present invention is also related to a process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition, and to the use of the cosmetic composition for the manufacture of a product to be used as tinted sunscreen daily product.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION, PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE COSMETIC
COMPOSITION AND ITS USE FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising
(a) a pigment system, which comprises coated pigments or/and uncoated pigments,
(b) a UV filter system, and (c) film-forming polymers, being able to not only protect the skin against the harmful effects caused by UV radiation, but also tint the skin, resulting in a color correction effect similar to a make-up foundation. The present invention is also related to a process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The photoprotection of keratinous materials, including both skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photo aging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are typically two types of UVA/UVB cosmetic compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
The degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB).
Particularly, cosmetic compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.
Moreover, customers nowadays are eager for multi-purpose cosmetic compositions, which not only protect against the UV rays, but also save the need for using additional products, such as a make-up foundation, providing a covering effect such as skin color correction due to the presence of pigments.
However, many cosmetic compositions with a UV system and pigments have the drawback of transferring, after their application to the skin, to objects such as mobile phones, clothing or glasses.
Thus, there still exists a need to develop tinted cosmetic compositions that can provide sunscreen protection to the skin as well as skin color correction, resulting in an effect similar to a make-up foundation, and which do not transfer to other objects or materials after application to the skin, particularly the skin of the face. Considering the current needs of the state of the art and the difficulties to overcome them, the inventors developed a cosmetic composition with high SPF, a pigment system and film-forming polymers, which provides a tinted cosmetic composition that transfers as little as possible to other materials and objects after application to the skin, particularly the skin of the face.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising
(a) a pigment system, which comprises coated pigments or/and uncoated pigments,
(b) a UV filter system, and (c) film-forming polymers. The present invention is also related to a process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use.
Particularly, the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition for the manufacture of a product to be used as tinted sunscreen daily product.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) at least 0.1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a pigment system, which comprises coated pigments or/and uncoated pigments,
(b) at least 0.1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a UV filter system, and
(c) at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a film-forming polymer, selected from the group comprising hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, acrylates copolymer and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition according to the invention presents enhanced anti-oiliness properties, high SPF values, dry touch to the skin after application combined with matt effect and no white film formation. Also, the tinted cosmetic composition of the present invention does not transfer or dirties clothes, cell phones and others, leaving the facial skin with a uniform color right after the application and throughout the day.
In a preferred embodiment, the pigment system is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8.0% by weight, more preferably about 1 .5% to about 7.0% by weight, most preferably about 2.5% to about 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In another preferred embodiment, the pigment system of the present invention comprises coated and uncoated pigments. In this case, the amount of coated pigments present is such mixture is from 0.1 % to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the amount of uncoated pigments present in such mixture is from 0.1 % to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has an amount of UV filter system from about 0.1 % to about 50% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 40% by weight, more preferably about 7.5% to about 30% by weight, most preferably about 10% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the film forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .0% to about 4.5% by weight, more preferably about 1 .5% to about 4.0% by weight, most preferably about 2.0% to about 3.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
Particularly, when the film-forming polymer is a mixture of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene and acrylates copolymer, the amount of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene present is such mixture is from 0.1 % to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the amount of acrylates copolymer present in such mixture is from 0.1 % to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the pigment system of the present invention comprises coated pigments selected from the group of iron oxide(s) (and) perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane, titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane, and combinations thereof.
In another preferred embodiment, the pigments system of the present invention comprises uncoated pigments selected from the group of titanium dioxide, iron oxide(s) and combinations thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the UV filter system of the present invention comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group of inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
Particularly, the UV filter system comprises at least one organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a- alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and combinations thereof.
More preferably, the UV filter system of the present invention is selected from the group of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, homosalate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, silica (and) titanium dioxide, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate, and combinations thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer of the present invention is a mixture of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene and acrylates copolymer.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, buffering, masking and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor ranging from 30 to 99.
In various embodiments, the sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90 and 99.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 40. In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 50.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 60.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 70.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 80.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 90.
In an embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 99.
The cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily tinted product for the skin, particularly as a tinted sunscreen.
In a further embodiment, the present invention is directed to a process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition the manufacture of a product to be used as tinted sunscreen daily product.
Terms
As used herein, the expression“at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
Pigment System
The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a pigment system which comprises coated pigments or/and uncoated pigments.
Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as those described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, vol. 105, p.53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surface-active agents, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, (titanium or aluminum) metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
Coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with silica such as the product, silica and iron oxide, silica and alumina, alumina such as the products, alumina and aluminum stearate, alumina and aluminum laurate, iron oxide and iron stearate, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, silica, alumina and silicone, silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and silicone, alumina and silicone, etc.
Mixtures of metal oxides may also be mentioned, especially titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the silica-coated equiponderous mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, as well as the alumina-silica- and silicone-coated mixture of titanium oxide and zinc dioxide, or the alumina-, silica- and glycerin-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide.
Uncoated pigments like titanium oxides, zinc oxides and cerium oxide may be used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention. Non-limitative examples of uncoated pigments are iron oxides, titanium oxides, zinc oxides and cerium oxide.
Additionally, examples of iron oxides may be yellow, red and black iron oxides.
In a preferred embodiment, the pigment system of the present invention is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8.0% by weight, more preferably about 1 .5% to about 7.0% by weight, most preferably about 2.5% to about 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
UV Filter System
Non-limiting suitable UV filters of the present invention could be as follows:
Oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient
The “oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.
Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from alkyl- styrene such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4- diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1 133980 and EP1 133981 , merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04/006878, WO 05/058269 and WO 06/032741 ; and mixtures thereof, the entire contents of the patents and patent applications being incorporated by reference in their entirety.
As examples of other suitable oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of those denoted herein below under their INCI name:
Cinnamic derivatives:
Examples of suitable cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
Examples of suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
Salicylic derivatives:
Examples of suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.
Beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives:
Examples of suitable beta, beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, octocrylene and etocrylene.
Benzophenone derivatives:
Examples of suitable benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 , benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.
Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:
Examples of suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured.
Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
Examples of suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl- phenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion.
Triazine derivatives:
Examples of suitable triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-S triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), especially 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4- yl)-1 ,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine, which is included in patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991 , WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985).
Anthranilic derivatives:
An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, methyl anthranilate.
Imidazoline derivatives:
An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
Benzalmalonate derivatives:
An example of a suitable benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15.
4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4, 4-diphenyl-butadiene.
Benzoxazole derivatives:
An example of suitable benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
The oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 3% to about 25% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 20% by weight, and most preferably about 7% to about 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient
The“water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4- Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference; and cinnamido amine cationic quaternary salts and derivatives such as those described in United States Patent 5,601 ,81 1 , the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference, and mixtures thereof.
The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2- hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts. Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used. The sodium salt is preferably used.
Preferably, the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and mixtures thereof.
The water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, and most preferably about 1 % to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The suitable UV filter system of the present invention is preferably selected from the group of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, homosalate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, silica (and) titanium dioxide, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate, and combinations thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has an amount of UV filter system from about 0.1 % to about 50% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 40% by weight, more preferably about 5% to about 30% by weight, most preferably about 10% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Film Forming Polymer
The film forming polymer system of the present invention comprises hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, acrylates copolymer and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the film forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .0% to about 4.5% by weight, more preferably about 1 .5% to about 4.0% by weight, most preferably about 2.0% to about 3.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
Particularly, when the film-forming polymer is a mixture of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene and acrylates copolymer, the amount of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene present is such mixture is from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the amount of acrylates copolymer present in such mixture is from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Additional Polymers
Further to the film forming polymer, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise additional polymers.
The suitable additional polymers of the present invention are selected from rheology modifier polymers and anionic polymers which may be water-soluble or water-dispersible at a pH of 7 and at room temperature (25°C). According to the present invention, the suitable polymers of the present invention could be as follows.
The rheology modifier polymers are pre-neutralized and preferably selected from taurate polymers. Such polymers comprise an ionic monomer portion, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as a further, less polar monomer portion (vinylpyrrolidone or beheneth-25 methacrylate). These polymers are used as thickener and as stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions and form extremely stable emulsions already at low concentrations. In particular, these polymers can be used in conjunction with almost any oil phase, comprising silicone oils, hydrocarbons/waxes and ester oils.
Examples of taurate polymers are acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer (such as Stabylen 30), acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (such as Pemulen TR1 and TR2), carbomers (Aqua SF-1 ), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (such as Aristoflex AVC), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (such as Aristoflex HMB), acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer (such as Structure 3001 ), polyacrylamide (such as Sepigel 305), non-ionic thickener (such as Aculyn 46), or mixtures thereof.
Acrylic polymer powders useful in the invention include, for example, acrylic polymer powders such as methyl methacrylate crosspolymer.
Anionic polymers may be polymers with anionic groups distributed along the polymer backbone. Anionic groups, which may include carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate, nitrate, or other negatively charged or ionizable groupings, may be disposed upon groups pendant from the backbone or may be incorporated in the backbone itself.
The anionic polymers may comprise at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
In certain exemplary and non-limiting embodiments, the copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:
(1 ) at least one monomer of formula (I):
CH2=CH(R1)C00H (I)
wherein Ri is chosen from H or Chb or C2H5, providing acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or ethacrylic acid monomers, and
(2) at least one monomer of (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (II):
CH2=CH(R )COOR3 (H)
Non-limiting examples of (Cio-C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are for example chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
Additionally, crosslinked polymers may be chosen according to further exemplary embodiments. For example, such polymers may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
(1 ) acrylic acid,
(2) an ester of formula (II) described above, in which R2 is chosen from H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
(3) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
For example, acrylate/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/Cio-3o Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products PEMULEN TR1 , PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382 and CARBOPOL EDT 2020 may be chosen.
Anionic polymers useful herein include, for example: polyacrylic acid; polymethacrylic acid; parboxyvinylpolymer; acrylate copolymers such as pcrylate/Cio- 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylic acid/vinyl ester copolymer/acrylatesninyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, and acrylate/celeth-20 itaconate copolymer; sulfonate polymers such as polysulfonic acid, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid, and copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid; carboxymethycellulose; carboxy guar gum; copolymers of ethylene and maleic acid; and acrylate silicone polymer. In some instances, the anionic polymers include, for example, Carbomer and CARBOPOL 980; acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer such as Pemulen TR-1 , PEMULEN TR-2, CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382, and CARBOPOL ETD 2020; sodium carboxymethylcellulose such as CMC series; and acrylate copolymer such Capigel; acrylates copolymer such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF- 1 as an aqueous dispersion, and acrylates crosspolymer-4 such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 as an aqueous dispersion.
In an embodiment, the anionic polymer of the invention is carbomer such as CARBOPOL 980. Exemplary of non-ionic polymers could be as follows:
(i) hydroxyethylcellulose, for instance the product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC or NATROSOL 250 HHR CS; (ii) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include:
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100; methyl hydroxyethylcellulose; methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, known as the product STRUCTURE CEL 8000 M; or hydroxypropyl cellulose, known as the product KLUCEL MF PHARM HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSE;
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether); or
(iii) hydroxypropyl guars such as hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain).
Additional Ingredients
In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, pigments, buffering, masking and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, kaolin, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon- 66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, silica silylate, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.
Additionally, the composition of the present invention may comprise polymeric fillers such as polylactic acid.
Non-limiting suitable fatty compounds of the present invention include isononyl isonanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl n-lauroylsarcosinate and stearyl alcohol.
Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, water, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof.
In various embodiments, the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 100% by weight, or from about 20 to about 80% by weight, or from about 30 to about 70% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 70% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 65% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of additional surfactants suitable for use are fatty acids, glyceryl esters in addition to glyceryl stearate, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, such as stearic acid, laureth-12, laureth-21 , glyceryl isostearate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, poloxamer 338, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof.
Exemplary of fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, esters, fatty acids, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbons/paraffins, such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid silicones mineral oil, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
Examples of silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone and caprylyl methicone.
The additional ingredients may represent from 60% to 85%, such as from 60% to 82% or such as from 65 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC COMPOSITION
A non-limitative process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise the following steps:
(A): the oil phase comprising the oil raw materials is mixed, and heated up to 75QC;
(B): the aqueous phase comprising the aqueous raw materials is mixed until complete homogenization;
(C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oil phase of step (A), followed by mixing the mixture;
(D): the other ingredients are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneity, at a temperature of below 30QC.
EXAMPLES
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.
Examples 1 to 10
A suitable composition according to the state of the art is as Example 1 and a suitable composition according to the present invention is as Examples 2 to 10, as follows:
Table 1 - Compositions of the state of the art and of the present invention
Figure imgf000018_0001
Figure imgf000019_0001
Example 11
Consumer Test
In order to evaluate the benefices to the consumer of the present invention (Example 3), a test was performed, in which interviews were conducted with 165 women users of tinted facial sunscreen from ages 18 to 55 with oily skin and combination skin. For such interviews, the performance and customer satisfaction were evaluated after 7 days of daily application of the inventive cosmetic composition.
The results showed that around 97% of the volunteers totally agreed with the cosmetic composition of the present invention leaves the face with a uniform color right after the application and throughout the day, with a uniform color coverage. Furthermore, 99% of women totally agreed that the coverage of the present cosmetic composition is similar to the coverage expected of a makeup base/foundation.
Also, 89% of the participants totally agreed that the cosmetic composition does not transfer/dirty clothes or others, and 86% totally agreed that the cosmetic composition does not transfer/dirty cell phones.
Additional results demonstrated that the present cosmetic composition has a light texture (95% of volunteers), controlled the glow and oiliness of facial skin (around 92% of volunteers), and leaves the skin of the face with natural aspect throughout the day (94% of volunteers).
Example 12 (In vitro Test)
In order to compare non-transfer properties of cosmetic compositions with and without the ingredients (a) to (c) of the present invention, an in vitro test was performed to mimic the transfer to a smartphone scream, in which, the formulas was applied to a type of cloth and then transferred for a glass slide to be evaluated.
It was tested 3 formulas, all of them with high UV filter system, as follows:
(1 ) the first one without film former polymer(s) and with uncoated pigments (such as Example 1 );
(2) the second one with film former polymer(s) and uncoated pigments (such as Examples 4, 6, 9 and 10); and
(3) the last one with film former polymer(s) and coated pigments (such as Examples 2-3, 5, 7 and 8).
By the analysis of the results, it was concluded that the formulas (2) and (3) demonstrate a significantly superiority over formula (1 ) regarding the transferring properties.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS
1 . A cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least 0.1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a pigment system, which comprises coated pigments or/and uncoated pigments,
(b) at least 0.1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a UV filter system, and
(c) at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least a film-forming polymer selected from the group comprising hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, acrylates copolymer and mixtures thereof.
2. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , comprising from 0.1 % to 10% by weight of the pigment system, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the pigment system comprises coated pigments selected from the group of iron oxide(s) (and) perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane, titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane, and combinations thereof.
4. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the pigment system comprises uncoated pigments selected from the group of titanium dioxide, iron oxide(s) and combinations thereof.
5. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , comprising from 0.1 % to 50% by weight of the UV filter system, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the UV filter system comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group of inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
7. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 6, wherein the UV filter system comprises at least one organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b- diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis- benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4- diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and combinations thereof.
8. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 6, wherein the UV filter system is selected from the group of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, homosalate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, silica (and) titanium dioxide, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate, and combinations thereof.
9. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , comprising from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the film forming polymer, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the film- form polymers consist of a mixture of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene and acrylates copolymer.
1 1 . The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the further cosmetically acceptable ingredients are present in a range from 5 to 35% by weigh, based on the total weight of the composition.
12. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments and combinations thereof.
13. The cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it presents a Sun Protection Factor of at least 50.
14. A process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition, as defined in claim 1 , wherein the process comprises the steps of:
(A): the oil phase comprising the oil raw materials is mixed, and heated up to 75QC;
(B): the aqueous phase comprising the aqueous raw materials is mixed until complete homogenization;
(C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oil phase of step
(A), followed by mixing the mixture;
(D): the other ingredients are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneity, at a temperature of below 30QC.
15. Use of the cosmetic composition, as defined in claim 1 , for the manufacture of a product to be used as tinted sunscreen daily product.
PCT/BR2019/050311 2019-07-31 2019-07-31 Cosmetic composition, process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use WO2021016684A1 (en)

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