WO2020253562A1 - 一种仿毛面料的制作方法 - Google Patents

一种仿毛面料的制作方法 Download PDF

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WO2020253562A1
WO2020253562A1 PCT/CN2020/094874 CN2020094874W WO2020253562A1 WO 2020253562 A1 WO2020253562 A1 WO 2020253562A1 CN 2020094874 W CN2020094874 W CN 2020094874W WO 2020253562 A1 WO2020253562 A1 WO 2020253562A1
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fabric
wool
warp
weft
weave
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PCT/CN2020/094874
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English (en)
French (fr)
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姚栋平
徐慧
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吴江德伊时装面料有限公司
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Publication of WO2020253562A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020253562A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres

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  • the invention relates to a manufacturing method of wool-like fabric.
  • Wool fibers are developed from cells on sheep skin. First, the cells where the wool grows begin to multiply. A bump is formed, which stretches down into the skin, making the skin concave inward here, becoming hair follicles. The wool in the skin is the root of the hair, and its lower end is covered by the hair papilla, which supplies nutrients, so that the cells continue to multiply, grow upward, protrude from the skin, and form wool fibers. Wool fiber is a deformation of sheep’s skin and is a natural fiber. It has excellent characteristics such as strong moisture absorption, good resilience, super soft feel, and good bulkiness. In addition, it has excellent warmth retention and is mostly used in autumn and winter clothing.
  • Fiber also has serious shortcomings, such as high price, easy to deform, easy to moth, and poor shape retention. How to develop a wool-like product that avoids the excellent characteristics of wool fiber and overcomes its shortcomings, so as to meet consumers' demand for high quality, low price and high quality, is the unremitting pursuit of those skilled in the art.
  • the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a method for making wool-like fabrics.
  • a manufacturing method of wool-like fabric includes the following steps: 1, take cuprafiber as the warp of the fabric for use; 2 take cupra and modal fiber and form a blended yarn at 50:50 as the fabric
  • the weft yarn is reserved; 3, the warp yarn taken in step 1 and the weft yarn taken in step 2 are interwoven with warp and weft using a loom, and the fabric after weaving is a small jacquard structure with a plain weave and a combined weave alternately; the plain weave spans 10 Warp yarn, the joint weave spans 20 warps; the joint weave is composed of five satin weaves and reverse five satin weaves alternately; the five satin weaves span 6 wefts, and the five satin weaves span 6 wefts; step 3
  • the drawing-in method for the warp and weft interlacing is: the last one, (1-2)*5 times, (3-4-5-6-7)*4 times; the drawing-up method of the warp and weft interlacing in step 3 is: the latter one ,
  • a manufacturing method of wool-like fabric includes the following steps: 1, take cuprafiber as the warp of the fabric for use; 2 take cupra and modal fiber and form a blended yarn at 50:50 as the fabric The weft yarns are reserved; 3, the warp yarns taken in step 1 and the weft yarns taken in step 2 are interwoven with warp and weft using a loom, and the fabric after weaving is a small jacquard structure with a plain weave and a combined weave alternately.
  • the joint organization is constituted by alternating cycles of regular five-piece satin structure and reverse five-piece satin structure.
  • the positive five satin weave spans 6 wefts Preferably, the positive five satin weave spans 6 wefts, and the reverse five satin weave spans 6 wefts.
  • the drawing-in method of warp and weft interlacing in step 3 is as follows: one, (1-2)*5 times, (3-4-5-6-7)*4 times.
  • the heddling method for the interlacing of warp and weft in step 3 is as follows: one, 12 shuttles/cycle: one, 2-4, two, 1-7, three, 2-5, four, 1-3, five, 2 -4-5-6-7, six, 1--3-4-5-7, seven, 2-3-5-6-7, eight, 1--3-4-5-6, nine, 2-3 -4-6-7, ten, 1-4-5-6-7, eleven, 2-3, twelve, 1-6.
  • the reed method of interweaving warp and weft in step 3 is as follows: 19.5# reed is used, and in the drawing cycle, the first 10 strands are penetrated by 2 and the last 20 strands are penetrated by 4.
  • the warp yarn fineness specification is 120D/70F
  • the twist and twist direction specification is 800T/S.
  • the weft yarn is a single-ply yarn with a fineness of 30 inches.
  • the present invention has the following advantages compared with the prior art:
  • the manufacturing method of the wool-like fabric of the present invention studies new cupra wool-like products to realize the comprehensive development and application of cupra fiber, and expand the relevant research directions and application fields; the wool-like fabric produced by the method is high in quality and inexpensive. Excellent quality, the interwoven fabric has a super wool-like feel, softness, comfort, and drape. Satisfy consumers' demand for the excellent characteristics of wool products, and avoid the problems of high price, easy deformation, and poor shape retention of wool products. At the same time, the function of the two raw materials is complementary and the environmental protection is stronger, which greatly enriches new products The performance of the product has been greatly improved.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the structure of wool-like fabric
  • a method for making wool-like fabrics includes the following steps: 1 Take cupra as the warp of the fabric as a spare.
  • the warp fineness specification is 120D/70F, and the twist and twist direction specification is 800T/S.
  • the step 1 The warp yarns taken and the weft yarns taken in step 2 are interwoven with warp and weft, and the fabric after weaving is a small jacquard structure with plain weave and joint weave alternately circulating.
  • the plain weave spans 10 warp yarns, and the joint weave spans 20 warp yarns.
  • the plain weave on the left is in the flat pitch, which harmonizes the recesses and protrusions on the right, which enhances the sense of three-dimensionality and layering, and improves the feel of wool.
  • the joint weave is composed of five satin weaves and anti-five satin weaves alternately.
  • the five satin weaves span 6 wefts and the five satin weaves span 6 wefts.
  • this organization configuration shows that the upper part of the right cloth surface shows the warp float and the cloth surface sinks, the lower part of the right cloth surface shows the weft float length and the cloth surface is convex, and the upper and lower sides are straight. The opposites correspond to each other.
  • the drawing-in method of the warp and weft interlacing in step 3 is: the last one, (1-2)*5 times, (3-4-5-6-7)*4 times.
  • Step 3 The heddling method of the middle warp and weft interlacing is: after making one, 12 shuttles/cycle: one, 2-4, two, 1-7, three, 2-5, four, 1-3, five, 2-4- 5-6-7, six, 1--3-4-5-7, seven, 2-3-5-6-7, eight, 1--3-4-5-6, nine, 2-3-4 6-7, ten, 1-4-5-6-7, eleven, 2-3, twelve, 1-6.
  • Step 3 The reed method of the interweaving of the middle warp and weft is as follows: 19.5# reed is used. In the drawing cycle, the first 10 strands are penetrated by 2 and the last 20 strands are penetrated by 4. Machine specification: 19.5#*2/4*161.5*32 shuttle.
  • the finished product density of the wool-like fabric produced according to the production method of the present invention 62*36 pieces/CM; gram weight: 160g/m2, width: 142CM; composition: 78% Cupro 22% Moda. Quality deviation ⁇ 2.0%, washing size change rate: warp direction -3 ⁇ +2%, weft direction ⁇ 2%, dry rubbing color fastness 3-4.
  • the manufacturing method of the wool-like fabric of the present invention studies new cupra wool-like products, so as to realize the comprehensive development and application of cupra fiber, and expand the related research directions and application fields; the wool-like fabric produced by the method
  • the fabrics are cheap and of good quality.
  • the interwoven fabric has a super wool-like feel, softness, comfort and drape. Satisfy consumers' demand for excellent characteristics of wool products, and avoid problems such as high prices, easy deformation, and poor shape retention of wool products;
  • copper ammonia fiber has the four major functions of breathing, refreshing, antistatic, and good drape. It also has the characteristics of good moisture absorption, fast absorption, and good wearing performance; the functions of the two raw materials are complementary, and the environmental protection is stronger. The performance of new products has been greatly enriched, and the product grade has been greatly improved.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

本发明涉及一种仿毛面料的制作方法，制作方法包括如下步骤：①、取用铜氨纤维作为面料的经纱备用；②、取用铜氨纤维与莫代尔纤维并按50:50形成混纺纱，作为面料的纬纱备用；③、采用织布机将步骤①取用的经纱和步骤②取用的纬纱进行经纬交织，且交织后面料为平纹组织与联合组织交替循环的为小提花结构；本发明的仿毛面料的制作方法，研究铜氨仿毛的新产品，以实现铜氨纤维的全面发展应用，扩大相关的研究方向和应用领域；该制作方法制作的仿毛面料物美价廉且品质优良，交织后的织物面料，其手感超强仿毛，柔软度、舒适度、悬垂性极其优越。

Description

一种仿毛面料的制作方法 技术领域
本发明涉及一种仿毛面料的制作方法。
背景技术
羊毛纤维是由绵羊皮肤上的细胞发育而成。首先生长羊毛处的细胞开始繁殖。形成凸起物，向下伸展到皮肤内，使皮肤在这里向内凹，成为毛囊。处于皮肤内的羊毛是毛根，它的下端被毛***所包覆，毛***供给养分，使细胞继续繁殖，向上生长，凸出皮肤，形成羊毛纤维。羊毛纤维是羊的皮肤的变形物、是天然纤维，具有吸湿性强、回弹性好、手感超柔软、蓬松性好等优良特性，另外，保暖性极佳，多用于秋冬季节的服装，但羊毛纤维的也有较严重的缺点，例如价格高、易变形、极易虫蛀、保形性差等。如何开发一款避免拥有羊毛纤维优良特性并克服其缺点的仿毛产品，以便满足消费者的物美价廉且品质优良的消费需求，是本领域技术人员一直不懈的追求。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是克服现有技术的不足，提供一种仿毛面料的制作方法。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明采取的技术方案如下：
一种仿毛面料的制作方法，制作方法包括如下步骤：①、取用铜氨纤维作为面料的经纱备用；②、取用铜氨纤维与莫代尔纤维并按50:50形成混纺纱，作为面料的纬纱备用；③、采用织布机将步骤①取用的经纱和步骤②取用的纬纱进行经纬交织，且交织后面料为平纹组织与联合组织交替循环的小提花结构；平纹组织跨10根经纱，联合组织跨20根经纱；联合组织由正五枚缎组织和反五枚缎组织交替循环构成；正五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱，反五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱；步骤③中经纬交织的穿综法为：后作一，(1-2)*5次，(3-4-5-6-7)*4次；步骤③中经纬交织的起综法为：后作一，12梭/循环：一、2-4，二、1-7，三、2-5，四、1-3，五、2-4-5-6-7，六、1-3-4-5-7，七、2-3-5-6-7，八、1-3-4-5-6，九、2-3-4-6-7，十、1-4-5-6-7，十一、2-3，十二、1-6；步骤③中经纬交织的穿筘法为：采用19.5#筘，在穿综循环中，前10根2穿入，后20根4穿入；经纱的细度规格为120D/70F，捻度及捻向规格为800T/S；纬纱为单股纱，且细度为30英支。
一种仿毛面料的制作方法，制作方法包括如下步骤：①、取用铜氨纤维作为面料的经纱备用；②、取用铜氨纤维与莫代尔纤维并按50:50形成混纺纱，作为面料的纬纱备用；③、采用织布机将步骤①取用的经纱和步骤②取用的纬纱进行经纬交织，且交织后面料为平纹组织与联合组织交替循环的小提花结构。
优选地，平纹组织跨10根经纱，联合组织跨20根经纱。
优选地，联合组织由正五枚缎组织和反五枚缎组织交替循环构成。
优选地，正五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱，反五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱。
优选地，步骤③中经纬交织的穿综法为：后作一，(1-2)*5次，(3-4-5-6-7)*4次。
优选地，步骤③中经纬交织的起综法为：后作一，12梭/循环：一、2-4，二、1-7，三、2-5，四、1-3，五、2-4-5-6-7，六、1-3-4-5-7，七、2-3-5-6-7，八、1-3-4-5-6，九、2-3-4-6-7，十、1-4-5-6-7，十一、2-3，十二、1-6。
优选地，步骤③中经纬交织的穿筘法为：采用19.5#筘，在穿综循环中，前10根2穿入，后20根4穿入。
优选地，经纱的细度规格为120D/70F，捻度及捻向规格为800T/S。
优选地，纬纱为单股纱，且细度为30英支。
由于以上技术方案的实施，本发明与现有技术相比具有如下优点：
本发明的仿毛面料的制作方法，研究铜氨仿毛的新产品，以实现铜氨纤维的全面发展应用，扩大相关的研究方向和应用领域；该制作方法制作的仿毛面料物美价廉且品质优良，交织后的织物面料，其手感超强仿毛，柔软度、舒适度、悬垂性极其优越。满足消费者对羊毛产品优良特性的需求，且避免羊毛产品的价格高、易变形、保形性差等问题，同时，两种原料的功能互补性，环保性更强，极大的丰富了新产品的性能，产品档次大幅提升。
附图说明
图1为仿毛面料的组织结构示意图；
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和具体的实施例对本发明做进一步详细的说明。
结合图1所示，一种仿毛面料的制作方法，制作方法包括如下步骤：①、取用铜氨纤维作为面料的经纱备用，经纱的细度规格为120D/70F，捻度及捻向规格为800T/S。；②、取用铜氨纤维与莫代尔纤维并按50:50形成混纺纱，作为面料的纬纱备用，纬纱为单股纱，且细度为30英支；③、采用织布机将步骤①取用的经纱和步骤②取用的纬纱进行经纬交织，且交织后面料为平纹组织与联合组织交替循环的小提花结构。
具体地，平纹组织跨10根经纱，联合组织跨20根经纱。如图1所示，左侧的平纹组织则平整距中，协调右部的凹进与凸起，有增强立体感与层次感的同时，改善了仿毛的手感。
联合组织由正五枚缎组织和反五枚缎组织交替循环构成，正五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱，反五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱。如图1所示，这样的组织配置，表现出在右侧布面上部体现经浮长 而布面下沉，右侧布面下部体现纬浮长而布面凸起，且上部与下部的正反面互相对应。
进一步地，步骤③中经纬交织的穿综法为：后作一，(1-2)*5次，(3-4-5-6-7)*4次。步骤③中经纬交织的起综法为：后作一，12梭/循环：一、2-4，二、1-7，三、2-5，四、1-3，五、2-4-5-6-7，六、1-3-4-5-7，七、2-3-5-6-7，八、1-3-4-5-6，九、2-3-4-6-7，十、1-4-5-6-7，十一、2-3，十二、1-6。步骤③中经纬交织的穿筘法为：采用19.5#筘，在穿综循环中，前10根2穿入，后20根4穿入。上机规格：19.5#*2/4*161.5*32梭。
按照本发明制作方法制作的仿毛面料的成品密度：62*36根/CM；克重160g/m2，幅宽：142CM；成份:78％Cupro 22％Moda l。质量偏差度±2.0％，水洗尺寸变化率：经向-3～+2％，纬向±2％，干摩擦色牢度3-4级。
综上所述，本发明的仿毛面料的制作方法，研究铜氨仿毛的新产品，以实现铜氨纤维的全面发展应用，扩大相关的研究方向和应用领域；该制作方法制作的仿毛面料物美价廉且品质优良，交织后的织物面料，其手感超强仿毛，柔软度、舒适度、悬垂性极其优越。满足消费者对羊毛产品优良特性的需求，且避免羊毛产品的价格高、易变形、保形性差等问题；
此外，铜氨纤维具有会呼吸、清爽、抗静电、悬垂性佳四大功能，同时具有吸湿性好、吸收快、服用性能好的特点；两种原料的功能互补性，环保性更强，极大的丰富了新产品的性能，产品档次大幅提升。
以上对本发明做了详尽的描述，其目的在于让熟悉此领域技术的人士能够了解本发明的内容并加以实施，并不能以此限制本发明的保护范围，凡根据本发明的精神实质所作的等效变化或修饰，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：所述制作方法包括如下步骤：
    ①、取用铜氨纤维作为面料的经纱备用；②、取用铜氨纤维与莫代尔纤维并按50:50形成混纺纱，作为面料的纬纱备用；③、采用织布机将步骤①取用的经纱和步骤②取用的纬纱进行经纬交织，且交织后面料为平纹组织与联合组织交替循环的小提花结构；所述平纹组织跨10根经纱，所述联合组织跨20根经纱；所述联合组织由正五枚缎组织和反五枚缎组织交替循环构成；所述正五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱，所述反五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱；步骤③中经纬交织的穿综法为：后作一，(1-2)*5次，(3-4-5-6-7)*4次；步骤③中经纬交织的起综法为：后作一，12梭/循环：一、2-4，二、1-7，三、2-5，四、1-3，五、2-4-5-6-7，六、1-3-4-5-7，七、2-3-5-6-7，八、1-3-4-5-6，九、2-3-4-6-7，十、1-4-5-6-7，十一、2-3，十二、1-6；步骤③中经纬交织的穿筘法为：采用19.5#筘，在穿综循环中，前10根2穿入，后20根4穿入；所述经纱的细度规格为120D/70F，捻度及捻向规格为800T/S；所述纬纱为单股纱，且细度为30英支。
  2. 一种仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：所述制作方法包括如下步骤：
    ①、取用铜氨纤维作为面料的经纱备用；
    ②、取用铜氨纤维与莫代尔纤维并按50:50形成混纺纱，作为面料的纬纱备用；
    ③、采用织布机将步骤①取用的经纱和步骤②取用的纬纱进行经纬交织，且交织后面料为平纹组织与联合组织交替循环的小提花结构。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：所述平纹组织跨10根经纱，所述联合组织跨20根经纱。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：所述联合组织由正五枚缎组织和反五枚缎组织交替循环构成。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：所述正五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱，所述反五枚缎组织跨6根纬纱。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：步骤③中经纬交织的穿综法为：后作一，(1-2)*5次，(3-4-5-6-7)*4次。
  7. 根据权利要求2所述的仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：步骤③中经纬交织的起综法为：后作一，12梭/循环：一、2-4，二、1-7，三、2-5，四、1-3，五、2-4-5-6-7，六、1-3-4-5-7，七、2-3-5-6-7，八、1-3-4-5-6，九、2-3-4-6-7，十、1-4-5-6-7，十一、2-3，十二、1-6。
  8. 根据权利要求2所述的仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：步骤③中经纬交织的穿筘法为：采用19.5#筘，在穿综循环中，前10根2穿入，后20根4穿入。
  9. 根据权利要求2所述的仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：所述经纱的细度规格为120D/70F，捻度及捻向规格为800T/S。
  10. 根据权利要求2所述的仿毛面料的制作方法，其特征在于：所述纬纱为单股纱，且细度为30英支。
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