WO2020062117A1

WO2020062117A1 - A Cosmetic Preparation with Unique Sensory Properties and an Appealing Appearance

Info

Publication number: WO2020062117A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/108511
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yan Li; Fasong LI
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.; Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2018-09-29
Filing date: 2018-09-29
Publication date: 2020-04-02
Also published as: WO2020064245A1; CN112752561A

Abstract

A cosmetic preparation contains at least one lipophilic powder, at least one hydrophilic powder, and at least one oily component.

Description

A Cosmetic Preparation with Unique Sensory Properties and an Appealing Appearance

Technical Field

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic preparation which is provided in form of a bouncy cream.

Background Art

A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as caring and moisturizing products.

There is multitude of products on the market, but most of the products are solid to paste-like or the products are fluid, mostly viscous. In general, these products are in form of an emul-sion, frequently in form of a W/O-or an O/W-emulsion, depending on the sensory properties and/or the richness a composition shall have.

In the meaning of the present invention, emulsions are understood as heterogeneous sys-tems consisting of at least two liquids which are immiscible or have only a limited miscibility with each another. Said liquids are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion consisting of two phases, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine dis-tribution, which is generally of only limited stability.

If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed present in water, this composition is called an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W emulsion, e.g. milk) . The basic properties of an O/W emulsion are determined by the water, the basic properties being for example electrical conductivity, sensory properties, ability of the continuous phase to be stained.

In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion (W/O emulsion, e.g. butter) , where droplets of water or an aqueous phase are finely distributed in the oil phase, the basic properties are determined by the oil or oily phase.

The prior art recognizes several essential factors influencing the stability and rheology of emulsions.

To form and stabilize emulsions, generally one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and/or con-sistency regulators are required. Emulsions intended to be sold as cosmetic preparations have to be stable over a definite period of time, generally one year after opening the cosmet-ic preparation.

Besides the general purpose of cremes and lotions, to provide care and nourishment to the skin (and hair) , additional needs have to be fulfilled. Consumers’opinion surveys revealed that the respective products should be very soft, silky, smooth and powdery, and should con-vey a dry feeling. In contrary, consumers disliked cosmetic preparations leaving the skin with a wet and sticky feeling.

As described above, the current products, which are frequently in form of O/W-or W/O-emulsions, gels or oil based compositions usually cannot provide all of the sensory properties mentioned above at the same time. For example, the O/W-emulsions typically leave the skin with a wet feeling with some stickiness. After the application of W/O-emulsions the skin is described as being usually a bit greasy and wet. Aqueous gel preparations always leave the skin wet, and after the application of oil based preparations the skin feels always oily. Said preparations cannot provide a silky, powdery and dry feeling on the skin.

Additionally, the appearance of a cosmetic preparation and the complete product is a very important factor. Products and preparations with an appealing appearance are attracting consumers’eyes. Conventional products and preparations provide only a well-known ap-pearance like cream or gel.

To attract consumers’interest it would be advantageous to develop new forms of the prod-ucts.

Surprisingly, cosmetic preparations providing the skin with care and nourishment could be made available in form of bouncy creams, which could be described as a “marshmallow creams “. Said creams are very soft, silky, smooth, powdery and leave a dry feeling on the skin, without any feeling of wetness and stickiness.

Said preparations are beginning to be available on the cosmetic market as the product TO-NYMOLY Egg Pore Silky Smooth Balm (Mintel Database Number 2313142) shows. Accord-ing to the INCI list said Balm contains cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone /methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, silica, ceresin, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cyclohexasiloxane, titanium dioxide, bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Camelia Sinensis seed oil, Limnates Alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl linolenate, glyceryl arachidonate, lecethin, butylene glycol, glycerin, crea-tine, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, ceramide 3, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polyglutamic acid, sac-charide isomerate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, lysine, hystidine, arginine, threonine, valine, tryptophan, retinol, ascorbic acid, methionine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, collagen, sodium hyaluronate, biotin, polysorbate 20, magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate, copper tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, panthenol, niacinamide, sea water, alcohol, disodium EDTA, water, tocopheryl acetate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) sprout extract, Magnolia Kobus bark extrakt, Camelia Japonica flower extract, egg yolk extract, propylene glycol, ArctiumLappa root extract, Calendula Officinalis flower extract, Citrus Limonum (lemon) fruit extract, Humulus Lupulus (hops) extract, Hypericum Perforatum flower/leaf/stem extract, Salvia Officinalis (sage) leaf extract, Saponaria Officinalis leaf/root extract, propylparaben, fragrance.

Summary of the Invention

The above described INCI listing shows that the formula is a very complex one. One aim of the present invention was to develop a formula, which is significantly less complex.

A further aim was to improve the sensory properties of balms in comparison to balms already on the market. In particularly, a soft powdery, silky and dry feeling on the skin was of impor-tance. This feeling should be persistent, although oily components were included, which should provide care for the skin.

Additionally, the appearance of the balm should be bouncy and creamy, and the preparation should have an elastic texture.

Surprisingly it was found out that a specific combination of powders and a specific selection of oils could bring about a soft powdery, silky and dry feeling on the skin and at the same time care and moisture was provided to the skin. Especially, a cosmetic preparation contain-ing

● at least one lipophilic powder

● at least one hydrophilic powder

● at least one oily component selected from hydrocarbon components having at least 12 carbon atoms; esters from alcohols, having at least three carbon atoms and 2 or 3 hy-droxyl groups, and organic acids having alkyl residues of more than 11 carbon atoms; ethers having in total at least 12 carbon atoms and being derived from alcohols having 2 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group; fatty acids having alkyl residues of at least 11 carbon atoms; fatty alcohols having alkyl residues of at least 11 carbon atoms; cyclic compounds, being carbocycles or heterocycles and having at least 6 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof, could solve the problems described above.

Advantageously, the cosmetic preparation of the invention is intended for leave-on.

The cosmetic preparation of the invention may contain water. The amount of water ranges from 0 to 50 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. Water may be used to bring the total weight of the composition to 100 %by weight.

In addition to the above mentioned necessary components further components may be con-tained, selected from perfume, thickening agent (s) , pigment (s) and/or UV filter (s) .

At least one lipophilic powder is contained in the cosmetic preparation of the invention. The lipophilic powder has lipophilic residues on the surface, thus permitting an interaction with further lipophilic components in the preparation. Without being bound to theory, it is believed that the lipophilic powder causes a thickening of the oily component (s) and thus contributes to provide a preparation having a structure. In addition, the lipophilic powder by interacting with the oily components reduces or prevents an oily feeling of the preparation and an oily feeling on the skin. The resulting sensory impression of the preparation and the feeling on the skin is a smooth one.

The at least one lipophilic powder is selected from

- inorganic powder, preferably talc, modified talc and/or kaolin,

- surface modified silica,

- at least one silicone based crosspolymer powder, preferably a dimethicone cross-polymer powder;

- at least one methacrylate/acrylate-based polymer powder, preferably PMMA (poly-methyl methacrylate) powder.

It is more preferred, if a combination of lipophilic powders selected from inorganic powders and silicone based crosspolymer powder is contained, it is further more preferred, if the weight ratio of inorganic powders and silicone based crosspolymer powder is 3∶1 to 25∶1, especially 15∶1 to 20∶1. It is even further more preferred, if talc and a dimethicone/vinyl dime-thicone crosspolymer powder are contained. Likewise, it is even further more preferred, if only a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer powder is contained. Suitable talc may be purchased Omya with the trade name Microtalc Pharma 8. Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer powder may be purchased as Dowsil ^TM 9701 Cosmetic Powder from Dow Chemical Company. Talc modified with magnesium myristate, for example provided by KOBO as TALC N/MM3, talc modified with stearoyl glutamic acid, for example provided by KOBO as TALC N-ASG4 and talc treated with Dimethicone (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Stearic Acid (and) Ceramide NP (and) Phytosterols, for example provided by KOBO as TALC G8-DS-PDL3, are examples for modified talc powders.

Kaolin may be purchased from Quarzwerke as Pharmakaolin B 860, from Merck as “Weisser Ton innerlich” Art Nr 105006.

Silica treated with dimethyldichlorosilane, for example provided as

R 972 by Evonik is an example for surface modified silica.

Advantageously, in the cosmetic preparation of the invention the at least one lipophilic pow-der is contained in a total amount from 0.5 to 30 %by weight, preferably 5 to 25 %by weight, and more preferably 10 to 20 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation. If the at least one lipophilic powder is selected from inorganic powder, the inorganic powder is contained in an amount of 10 to 25 %by weight, preferably 14 to 19 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation. If the at least one lipophilic powder is selected from at least one silicone based crosspolymer powder, the at least one silicone based crosspolymer powder is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 %by weight, preferably 2.5 to 3.5 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

At least one hydrophilic powder is contained in the cosmetic preparation according to the invention. The hydrophilic powder has a hydrophilic surface and thus will interact with mainly hydrophilic components of the preparation. The hydrophilic powder is distributed in the hy-drophilic phase of the preparation resulting in an overall preparation in form of a suspension. Without being bound to theory, it is believed that the hydrophilic powder is a main part in pro-viding the bouncy texture and the smooth sensory properties of the product. It is preferred, if the hydrophilic powder is selected from modified starch powders, non-modified starch pow-ders and mixtures thereof; from silica, and mixtures of all kinds of said hydrophilic powders. It is more preferred, if starch powder in a modified and/or non-modified form is contained; it is most preferred, if the starch powder is a modified one, especially distarch phosphate powder. For example, distarch phosphate powder may be purchased from Solvad is with the trade-name Corn PO4 PH″B″.

Advantageously, the at least one hydrophilic powder is contained in a total amount of 1 to 60 %by weight, preferably 2 to 30 %by weight, more preferably 5 to 20 %by weight in the prepa-ration according to the invention, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

At least one oily component, selected from

- hydrocarbon components having at least 12 carbon atoms,

- esters from alcohols having at least three carbon atoms and 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups, and organic acids having alkyl residues of more than 11 carbon atoms,

- ethers having in total at least 12 carbon atoms and being derived from alcohols hav-ing 2 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group;

- fatty acids having alkyl residues of at least 11 carbon atoms,

- fatty alcohols having alkyl residues of at 11 carbon atoms,

- cyclic compounds, being carbocycles or heterocycles and having at least 6 carbon atoms, and

- mixtures thereof,

is contained in the preparation according to the invention.

The oily component (s) may interact with the skin, due to this interaction they provide care and moisture to the skin. This class of components may be called emollients. According to the invention it is preferred, if esters are contained. It is more preferred, if the alcoholic com-ponent of the ester is glycerine. It is even more preferred, if all three hydroxyl residues of glycerine have been reacted with an acid, namely esters in form of triglycerides. It is further more preferred, if the acid is a mixture of medium chain fatty acids, especially a mixture of capric acid and caprylic acid. It is thus most preferred, if the oily component is caprylic/capric triglyceride. Advantageously, the at least one oily component is contained in a total amount of 1 to 60 %by weight, preferably 2 to 40 %by weight, more preferably 5 to 20 %by weight in the cosmetic preparation according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

Additionally it is advantageous, if one or more silicone (s) is/are contained in the preparation according to the invention. Silicones are synthetic polymers containing silicium atoms con-nected via oxygen atoms. The functional unit consisting of silicium atom and oxygen atom is called siloxane. In case of dimethicones many siloxane units are arranged in a linear way, each silicium atom having two methyl residues and the silicium atoms at the ends having three methyl residues. Dimethicones are varying in length. The differing length accounts for differing viscosity values. Therefore dimethicones can be characterized by these values. Dimethicones, or silicone fluids, as they are also called, can be purchased having varying values of viscosity. Commercial products have a viscosity values between 1 centistokes (cst) and 1,000,000 cst. The lower viscosity products are miscible for example with mineral oil and isopropyl myristate and are useful for aerosol applications. The products having 100 -500 cst are the traditional silicones used as additives in skin care formulations and products characterized by higher viscosities are used in barrier products or in hair products. The vis- cosity values are referring to those values which are given by the suppliers of the respective silicone components to characterize these components.

In case the functional siloxane units are arranged in a circular way, the resulting substances are called cyclomethicones. Frequently used are cyclomethicones consisting of 4, 5, or 6 siloxane units, respectively called cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) , cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and cyclohexasiloxane (D6) .

Advantageously, the preparations according to the invention may contain one or more dimethicones and/or one or more cyclomethicones.

The preferred dimethicones are those having viscosity values of 1 to 100 cst. More preferred is a dimethicone having a viscosity value of 5 cst, which for instance, may be purchased from BRB as BRB DM 5.

Advantageously, the one or more dimethicone (s) is/are contained in a total amount of 5 to 60 %by weight, preferably 7.5 to 30 %by weight, and more preferably 10 to 20 %by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

The preferred cyclomethicone is a cyclomethicone having 5 to 6 siloxane units. A suitable cyclomethicone may be purchased as Xiameter PMX-0345 Cyclosiloxane from Dow Corning or BRB CM 56 from BRB or SF0015Z from KCC.

Advantageously, the one or more cyclomethicone (s) is/are contained in a total amount of 5 to 60 %by weight, preferably 10 to 40 %by weight, and more preferably 15 to 30 %by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

The viscosity values may be determined according to CTM 0004 (Dow Corning) or DIN 53019 (Wacker) .

If the siloxane units are arranged in a linear way, thus creating long molecules, and then crosslinked via C3 to C20 alkyl groups, dimethicone crosspolymers are generated, which are characterized by a network. Said crosspolymers are silicone elastomers. Dimethicone crosspolymers are rheology modifiers in O/W-and W/O-emulsions and influence the texture of the preparations they are contained in. If said dimethicone crosspolymer (s) is/are con-tained in the preparation of the present invention, the total amount ranges from 0.1 to 10 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 %by weight, in relation to the active content of the dimethicone crosspolymers and in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

Dimethicone crosspolymers are available as combinations with cyclopentasiloxane or low viscosity dimethicone, which may be volatile or non-volatile. A preferred dimethicone crosspolymer is blend of dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer, available as Dowsil 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning. If a dimethicone crosspolymer blend is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the total amount ranges from 1.0 to 60 %by weight, preferably 5.0 to 50 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageously, the cyclomethicone (s) may be substituted by non-silicone components hav-ing a comparable function. Isoparaffines, for instance isodecane and/or isododecane and/or dicaprylyl dicarbonate may be contained.

The lipophilic powder (s) , the dimethicone crosspolymer and the oily component (s) are form-ing a thickened oily phase. The aqueous phase, containing hydrophilic components and the hydrophilic powder, may be thickened by a thickening agent. This aqueous phase is added to the oily phase and suspended. The hydrophilic powder may be present in form of particles or aggregated particles.

In the aqueous phase, one or more thickening agent (s) is/may be contained. If said thicken-ing agents are contained, they are advantageously chosen from

- homopolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, preferably homopolymers from acrylic acid, called Carbomer;

- copolymers containing at least one monomer of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid and/or derivatives thereof, preferably Acrylates Copolymer;

- crosspolymers containing at least one monomer of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic ac-id and/or derivatives thereof, preferably Acrylates Crosspolymer.

It is more preferred, if the thickening agent is Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copol-ymer, which may be purchased from Clariant as Aristoflex AVC.

If one or more thickening agent (s) is/are contained in the preparation according to the inven-tion, the total amount of the one or more thickening agent (s) range (s) from 0.05 to 5.0 %by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, the preparation may contain UV filters. The main purpose of the present preparations is not a protection against sunlight, but nevertheless they have a con-tent of UV protection substances. Advantageously, the preparation according to the invention may contain one or more UV filters selected from 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonic acid and/or salts thereof; phenylen-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3, 3’-5, 5’-tetra sulfonic acid and/or salts thereof; 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl) -benzene and salts thereof; 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl) benzene sulfonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl) sulfonic acid salts and/or salts thereof; 2, 2’-methylen-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3, 3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) ; 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3, 3, 3-tetramethyl-1- [ (trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] -phenol; 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 3-benzylidencamphor; Ethylhexylsalicylate; benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid; 2-ethylhexyl2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate; 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate; 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate; isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate; 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone; 2, 2′-dihydroxyl-4-methoxybenzophenone; 4- (tert. -butyl) -4’-methoxydibenzoylmethane; homomenthylsalicylate; 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate; 3- (4-(2, 2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxane/dDimethylsiloxane co-polymer; Hexyl 2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate; dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl-Butamidotriazone) ; 2, 4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3, 5-triazine (CAS No. 288254-16-0) ; 2, 4-bis- { [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin) ; tris (2-ethylhexyl) 4, 4′, 4″- (1, 3, 5-triazine-2, 4, 6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoate- (2, 4, 6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy) ] -1, 3, 5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) ; 2, 4, 6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1, 3, 5-triazine; titan dioxide and/or zinc oxide.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously comprise the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and/or UV-B region in a total amount of, for example, from 0.1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20%by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0%by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cos-metic preparations which protect the hair and/or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may comprise dyes and/or color pigments. The dyes and color pigments may be chosen from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Directive or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to dyes approved for foods. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide (CI 77891) , mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe ₂O ₃ (CI 77491) , Fe ₃O ₄, FeO (OH) ) and/or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Prussian blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and/or the color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as, for example, paprika extracts, β-carotene or cochineal.

If one or more dye (s) and/or color pigment (s) is/are contained in the preparation according to the invention, the total amount of the one or more dye (s) and/or color pigment (s) ranges from 0.01 to 5 %by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

According to the present invention, advantageously a combination of colorants together with additional substances is added to the preparation. Such a combination may contain or con-sist of CI 77891 and CI 77941 together with PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxylethyl Dimethicone and Aluminum hydroxide and Triethoxycaprylylsilane and may be purchased as MBCP from Daito Kasei Kogyo.

If a combination containing or consisting of CI 77891 and CI 77941 together with PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxylethyl Dimethicone and Aluminum hydroxide and Triethoxycaprylylsilane is contained in the preparation of the invention, the amount of said combination ranges from 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

According to the present invention, advantageously perfume is contained supporting the unique appearance of the preparation according to the invention.

It is believed that the interaction of the lipophilic powder and dimethicone crosspolymer helps to generate the elastic and bouncy texture of the preparation according to the invention.

Brief Description of the Figures

Fig. 1 is photos showing the difference of texture between the present invention (B) and the prior art (A) before press (upper part) and after press (lower part) , respectively.

Examples

The examples below are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the particular preparations.

The sensory evaluation was done by a panel evaluation method.

- Panelists: 10 trained panelists took part in the evaluation. The skin of the arms, espe-cially forearms of the panelists was characterized as normal skin.

- Panel Room: Temperature: 23-27℃, humidity: 50-60%.

- Method:

○ Before starting the test the panelist were allowed to acclimate in panel room for 10 minutes.

○ The areas of the skin, where the test samples were intended to be applied, were marked by using a stamp. Maximal 3 areas were marked on each arm, and on each skin area one product was applied. In total 6 products were eval-uated by one panelist.

○ The panel organizer starts to dispense one test sample on the respective skin area and starts the beeper for massaging the product with a certain frequency.

○ The panelist starts a timer and begins to massage the product, meanwhile evaluating the sensory impression during the application.

After massaging and immediately absorption the skin was touched and again evaluated sensory impression. The same evaluation was repeated 5 minutes after absorption.

- Score:

○ Elasticity of Texture: 0: no elasticity, 10: extremely high elasticity.

○ Wetness: 0: totally dry and no wetness, 10: extremely wet.

○ Greasiness: 0: totally no greasy, 10 extremely greasy.

○ Gliding: 0: extremely squeaky and not glide, 10 extremely good glide.

○ Stickiness: 0: not sticky, 10 extremely sticky

○ Immediately after absorption, and 5 minutes after absorption.

NIVEA Creme was used as an example for an O/W-emulsion. The INCI listing discloses the following components:

Aqua, paraffinum liquidum, cera microcristallina, glycerine, lanolin alcohol

paraffine, panthenol, magnesium sulfate, decyl oleate, octyldodecanol, aluminum stearates, citric acid, magnesium stearate, limonene, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, linalool, citronellol, benzyl benzoate, cinnamyl alcohol, perfume.

Nivea Sparkling White Day Cream was used as an example for W/O-emulsion. The INCI listing discloses the following components:

Aqua, glycerine, distarch phosphate, ethyl hexyl methoxy cinnamate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl myristate, octyldodecanol, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octadecenedioic acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra, tocopheryl acetate, carnitine, dimethicone, butyl-ene glycol, sodium carbomer, sodium acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, trisodium EDTA, alcohol denat., methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, lodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, butylphenyl methylpropional, citronellol, linalool, limonene, alpha-isomethyl ionone, methyl benzoate, BHT, perfume, CI77891.

A preparation according to the invention (example 1, called B in Figure 1) was prepared. This preparation was compared to a market product, namely TONYMOLY Egg Pore Silky Smooth Balm (Mintel Database number 4954639) (called A in Figure 1) . According to the INCI listing said Silky Smooth Balm contains cyclopenatasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, silica, ceresin, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cyclohexasiloxhane, vinegar, egg shell powder, titanium dioxide (CI 77891 ) , bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, tocopheryl acetate, Camelia Sinensis seed oil, Limnates Alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl linolenate, glyceryl arachidonate, propylparaben, fragrance.

Both preparations were taken out of the packaging and applied to the skin, a photo was taken, shown in the upper part of Figure 1.

Then the fingers were used to spread the preparation/product onto skin, during this the product was pressed and massaged onto the skin. In this treatment, the difference between both products becomes apparent.

As can be seen from the pictures there are obvious differences in the appearance and tex-ture of A and B. The preparation according to the invention has an appearance, which is more compact, remembering to a “marshmallow” . The preparation of the market product looks more like a foam, being fluffy und relatively unstable.

After application of pressure the preparation of the market product divides in several part, because the texture is not elastic and bouncy. The preparation according to the invention does not break apart and keeps its bouncy and elastic texture.

This comparison shows that the preparation according to the invention is more stable, has a bouncy and elastic texture and hence an improved appearance and texture.

The sensory evaluation shows that the elasticity of the texture of the preparations of the in-vention (examples 4 to 6) is by far evaluated best. The preparations of the invention are rel-atively simple compositions and as can be seen in Figure 1, have an appealing appearance.

The evaluation referring to wetness (sensory evaluation) shows that the preparations of the invention (examples 4 to 6) do not leave a wet feeling on the skin as the emulsions do. Likewise the stickiness of the skin immediately after absorption is much lesser after the ap-plication of the preparations of the invention (examples 4 to 6) than after the application of emulsions. Also, a reduced greasiness can be noticed after application and absorption of the preparations of the invention (examples 4 to 6) compared to emulsions. The comparison of the preparations of the invention (examples 4 to 6) to the product of prior art (INCI listing of TONYMOLY Egg Pore Silky Smooth Balm (Mintel Database number 4954639) see page 14) in relation to greasiness, stickiness and wetness shows that the preparations of the in-vention (examples 4 to 6) are evaluated better or at least as good as the product of prior art.

The sensory evaluation and the photos (see Figure 1) provide evidence that the preparation according to the invention is an improved preparation being superior to classic emulsions and the product of prior art.

It becomes apparent that the products according to the invention are evaluated best referring to an elastic structure, having good scores in elasticity of texture.

In relation to wetness the products of the invention are evaluated better than products in form of an O/W-emulsion or W/O-emulsion, which are more conventional product forms.

Especially referring to greasiness immediately after absorption the products according to the invention are evaluated better than conventional W/O-emulsions.

Also, the scores for stickiness are better for the products according to the invention than those referring to known O/W-emulsions.

Summing up, it can be concluded that the products according to the invention provide an improvement in comparison to different forms of products of prior art.

Claims

A cosmetic preparation containing

· at least one lipophilic powder

· at least one hydrophilic powder

· at least one oily component selected from

- hydrocarbon components having at least 12 carbon atoms,

- esters from alcohols, having at least three carbon atoms and 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups, and organic acids having alkyl residues of more than 11 carbon atoms,

- ethers, having in total at least 12 carbon atoms and being derived from alcohols having 2 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group,

- fatty acids having alkyl residues of at least 11 carbon atoms,

- fatty alcohols having alkyl residues of at 11 carbon atoms,

- cyclic compounds, being carbocycles or heterocycles and having at least 6 car-bon atoms, and

- mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 characterized in that water is contained, preferably less than or equal 50 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the prepa-ration.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that additionally one or more further component (s) is/are contained, selected from perfume, thickening agent (s) , pigment (s) , colorants and/or UV filter (s) .
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the at least one lipophilic powder is selected from

· inorganic powder, preferably talc, modified talc, and/or kaolin;

· surface modified silica;

· silicone based crosspolymer powder, preferably dimethicone crosspolymer powder;

· methacrylate/acrylate based polymer powder, preferably polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 4 characterized in that a combination of lipophilic powders is contained, selected from at least one inorganic powder and at least one silicone based crosspolymer powder.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 5 characterized in that the weight ratio of the at least one inorganic powder and the at least one silicone based crosspolymer powder is 3∶ 1 to 25∶ 1, preferably 15∶ 1 to 20∶ 1.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 5 or 6 characterized in that talc and dime-thicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer are contained.
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one lipophilic powder is contained in a total amount from 0.5 to 30 %by weight, preferably 5.0 to 25 %by weight, and more preferably 10 to 20 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one hydrophilic powder is selected from modified starch powders, non-modified starch powders and mixtures thereof; from silica; and mixtures of all kinds of said hydrophilic powders, preferably from starch powder in a modified and/or non-modified form, more preferably distarch phosphate powder.
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one hydrophilic powder is contained in a total amount of 1 to 60 %by weight, preferably 2 to 30 %by weight, more preferably 5 to 20 %by weight in the preparation, relative to the total weight of the preparation.
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one oily component is selected from one or more esters, preferably one or more esters in form of triglycerides, more preferably triglycerides of a mixture of medium chain fatty acids, most preferably capric/caprylic triglyceride.
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one oily component is contained in a total amount of 1 to 60 %by weight, preferably 2 to 40 %by weight, more preferably 5 to 20 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally one or more silicone (s) is/are contained, preferably selected from di-methicones, cyclomethicones, dimethicone crosspolymers, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 13 characterized in that the dimethicone is a dimethicone having a viscosity value in the range of 1 to 100 cst, preferably a dimethicone having a viscosity value of 5 cst.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 14 characterized in that the dimethicone is contained in a total amount of 5 to 60 %by weight, preferably 7.5 to 30 %by weight, and more preferred 10 to 20 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the prepara-tion.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 13 characterized in that the cyclomethicone is selected from cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and/or cyclohexasiloxane, preferably cyclopentasiloxane and/or cyclohexasiloxane.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 16 characterized in that the cyclomethicone is contained in a total amount of 5 to 60 %by weight, preferably 10 to 40 %by weight, and more preferred 15 to 30 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 13 characterized in that the dimethicone crosspolymer is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 %by weight, in relation to the active content of the dimethicone crosspolymers and in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 13 characterized in that the dimethicone crosspolymer is added to the preparation in form of a mixture of dimethicone crosspolymer and cyclopentasiloxane or dimethicone crosspolymer and a low viscosity dimethicone, preferably a mixture of dimethicone crosspolymer and a low vicosity dimethicone, more preferably a mixture of dimethicone crosspolymer and a dimethicone having a viscosity of 5 cst.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 19 characterized in that the mixture of dimethicone crosspolymer and cyclopentasiloxane or dimethicone crosspolymer and a low viscosity dimethicone is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 60 %by weight, pref-erably 5.0 to 50 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally one or more thickening agent (s) is/are contained, preferably selected from

· homopolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, more preferably homopolymers from acrylic acid (Carbomer) ;

· copolymers containing at least one monomer of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid and/or derivatives thereof, more preferably Acrylates Copolymer;

· crosspolymers containing at least one monomer of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid and/or derivatives thereof, more preferably Acrylates Crosspolymer.
The cosmetic preparation according to claim 21 characterized in that the thickening agent is Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer.
The cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the cosmetic preparation is a leave-on preparation.