WO2019237702A1 - 经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法 - Google Patents

经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法 Download PDF

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WO2019237702A1
WO2019237702A1 PCT/CN2018/121766 CN2018121766W WO2019237702A1 WO 2019237702 A1 WO2019237702 A1 WO 2019237702A1 CN 2018121766 W CN2018121766 W CN 2018121766W WO 2019237702 A1 WO2019237702 A1 WO 2019237702A1
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jacquard
color
pattern
area
comb
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PCT/CN2018/121766
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English (en)
French (fr)
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蒋高明
丛洪莲
董智佳
刘海桑
刘博�
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江南大学
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Priority to US16/608,849 priority Critical patent/US11441250B2/en
Publication of WO2019237702A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019237702A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for weaving warp-knitted fabrics, in particular to a method for weaving warp-knitted tri-color jacquard fabrics, and belongs to the field of textile technology.
  • RSJ warp knit jacquard fabric refers to elastic or non-elastic, tight-knit or mesh-like fabrics with three-dimensional or flat jacquard fabrics produced on Gaojia RSJ series Jakharasher warp knitting machines. Women's underwear, swimwear, body shapers, sportswear and casual wear have been widely used. RSJ series models have high machine speed and high productivity, producing tiny and extraordinaries, excellent quality and smooth feel. The structure of warp knitting longitudinal coils is stable and not easy to take off. The application of Jaka comb enables RSJ fabrics to produce not only decorative fabrics with rich patterns and mesh effects, but also positioning fabrics with different functional areas. Existing weaving methods are mainly used to produce single-color fabrics. At present, there are only conventional two-color fabrics. The realization method is mainly to achieve a partial two-color effect of a regular straight region through the bottom comb to pass through in sections.
  • RSJ warp knitting tricolor jacquard fabric is a special tricolor jacquard fabric that is different from single-color fabrics and conventional two-color fabrics. It has special requirements for weaving principles, definition of organizational structure, and use of raw materials. Neither the process nor the raw material method can meet the requirements of such fabrics.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings in the prior art and provide a method for weaving tricot jacquard tri-color jacquard fabrics, which can realize the production of three-color decorative jacquard pattern fabrics with delicate and translucent texture. Anti-scattering function.
  • a method for weaving warp knitted Jacquard tri-color jacquard fabric is produced on a high machine number RSJ system warp knitting machine.
  • the RSJ warp knitting machine includes two half machine numbers that move in the same direction.
  • Jaka combs are composed of 1 full-comb comb, and the machine combs are arranged from the front to the back of the machine as Jaka combs JB1.1, JB1.2, 2 loop combs GB2, GB3, and 1 Weft insert comb GB4, Jaka comb JB1.1 weave in odd-numbered rows, JB1.2 weave in even-numbered rows, Jaka combs JB1.1 and JB1.2 are two half-machine Jaka combs ⁇ Compose a full-machine knitting, looping comb ⁇ GB2, GB3 are full-machine knitting, weft inserting card ⁇ GB4 is full-machine knitting; it is characterized by the method of weaving the warp knitting tricolor jacquard fabric It is used to weave three-color jacquard fabrics, including A-color pattern area, B-color pattern area, C-color bottom net area, pattern outline area and elastic area.
  • the specific weaving method is:
  • A-color pattern area is composed of Jacquard pattern organization and Jacquard pattern stitch structure.
  • the number and offset information of Jacquard pattern organization are: JB1.1: 1-0 / 2 -3 // (HH / TT //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), the number and offset information of Jacquard pattern stitching and stitching are: JB1. 1: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //);
  • the B-color pattern area is composed of Jacquard pattern organization and Jacquard pattern stitch structure.
  • the number and offset information of Jacquard pattern organization are: -1 // (TT / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //), the number and offset information of Jacquard pattern stitching and stitching are: JB1. 1: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //);
  • the C-color bottom mesh area is composed of a mesh structure of Jaka mesh and a bottom comb;
  • the pattern outline area is the organization used by the outline of the A color pattern area or the outline of the B color pattern area. Two Jaka combs are used to form the pattern outline structure. For: JB1.1: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), B color pattern outline organization Yarn number: JB1.1: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //);
  • Knitting of elastic zone It consists of a bottom comb structure, and one bottom comb is used to knit the elastic area structure.
  • the Jaka mesh structure is formed by Jaka knitting chain organization, and the number and offset information of the Jaka knitting chain organization are: JB1.1: 1-0 / 0-1 / / (TTHH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //); use two loop combs GB2 and GB3 as the bottom pad comb organization number: GB2 : 2-3 / 2-1 / 1-2 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 //, GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 / 2-3 / 2-1 / 1 -2//.
  • the Jaka mesh structure is formed by Jaka knitting chain organization.
  • Two loop combs GB2 and GB3 are used to form a dense structure to form a bottom comb structure.
  • the gauze number is: GB2: 1-0. / 0-1 //, GB3: 0-0 / 2-2 //.
  • the yarn number in the step (6) is: GB4: 1-1 / 0-0 //.
  • JB1.1 wears 20D nylon semi-gloss filament
  • JB1.2 wears 20D polyester semi-gloss filament
  • GB2 and GB3 wears 20D nylon semi-gloss filament
  • GB4 wears 70D spandex
  • comb ⁇ The yarn is worn in full.
  • the method for weaving tri-color jacquard tri-color jacquard fabrics according to the present invention can realize the production of tri-color decorative jacquard pattern fabrics with delicate and translucent texture, and has the functions of breathability and anti-shedding.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of a loop comb of a RSJ warp knitting machine used in the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic plan view of a tri-color jacquard fabric of the RSJ warp knitting jaka according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is a movement diagram of the carded yarn of the A-color pattern area organization of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a motion diagram of the carded pad yarn of the B-color pattern area organization of the present invention.
  • FIG. 5 is a motion diagram of the carded gauze pad of the C-colored bottom mesh region of the present invention.
  • FIG. 6 is a motion diagram of the tissue combing and padding of the pattern contour area d of the present invention.
  • the weaving method of the warp knitted Jacquard tri-color jacquard fabric according to the present invention is produced on a high machine number RSJ system warp knitting machine.
  • the RSJ warp knitting machine includes two half machine numbers that move in the same direction.
  • Jaka combs are composed of 1 full-comb comb, and the machine combs are arranged from the front to the back of the machine as Jaka combs JB1.1, JB1.2, 2 loop combs GB2, GB3, and 1 Weft insert comb GB4, Jaka comb JB1.1 weave in odd rows, JB1.2 weave in even rows, JB1.1 and JB1.2 Jaka comb comb control information uses no offset H and Offset T indicates that Jaka comb ⁇ JB1.1 and JB1.2 are two half-machine Jaka comb ⁇ to form a full-machine knit, and ring-shaped comb ⁇ GB2 and GB3 are full-machine woven, weft-lined comb ⁇ GB4 is full machine knitting;
  • the method for weaving tricot jacquard tri-color jacquard fabrics of the present invention is used to weave tri-color jacquard fabrics, which includes A-color pattern areas, B-color pattern areas, C-color bottom net areas, pattern contour areas, and elastic areas.
  • the specific weaving method is:
  • A-color pattern area is composed of Jacquard pattern organization and Jacquard pattern stitch structure.
  • the number and offset information of Jacquard pattern organization are: JB1.1: 1-0 / 2 -3 // (HH / TT //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), the number and offset information of Jacquard pattern stitching and stitching are: JB1. 1: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //);
  • the B-color pattern area is composed of Jacquard pattern organization and Jacquard pattern stitch structure.
  • the number and offset information of Jacquard pattern organization are: JB1.1: 1-0 / 0 -1 // (TT / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //), the number and offset information of Jacquard pattern stitching and stitching are: JB1. 1: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //);
  • the C-color bottom mesh area is composed of Jaka mesh and bottom comb. There are two main methods:
  • Jaka mesh organization is formed by Jaka knitting chain organization.
  • Jaka knitting chain organization pad number and offset information are: JB1.1: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TTHH //) , JB1.2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //);
  • the Jaka mesh structure is formed by Jaka knitting chain organization.
  • Two loop combs GB2 and GB3 are used to form a dense organization to form a bottom comb structure.
  • the gauze number is: GB2: 1-0 / 0-1 / /, GB3: 0-0 / 2-2 //;
  • the mesh organizational structure of the C-colored bottom mesh area can be flexibly formulated according to the needs;
  • the pattern contour area d is a tissue used for the outer contour of the A color pattern area or the outer contour of the B color pattern area. Two Jaka combs are used to form the pattern contour structure. Yarn numbers are: JB1.1: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), B color pattern outline The organization's gauze numbers are: JB1.1: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //);
  • Knitting of elastic zone It consists of bottom comb structure. Use one bottom comb to weave the elastic zone structure.
  • the number of pad yarn is GB4: 1-1 / 0-0 //.
  • the structure of the elastic zone can be according to the elasticity of the fabric. Flexible and regular organization structure.
  • Embodiment 1 A RSJ warp knitting jacquard two-color jacquard fabric is produced on a RSJ series Jaccarasher warp knitting machine with a machine number of E28 (28 stitches per inch), and the model is RSJ4 / 1, with a total of 4 combs; As shown in FIG. 1, in the production process of the present invention, four combs are used, and the order of the combs from the front to the back of the machine is 2 half-machine Jaka combs JB1.1 and JB1.2.
  • the combs with full machine number and three loop-shaped bottom combs GB2, GB3, GB4; the needles on the needle bed of the RSJ warp knitting machine are located in the front of the machine from the head to the tail to the adjacent knitting needles.
  • the gaps are numbered, and the knitting needle gaps are sequentially numbered 0, 1, 2, 3, .... In the embodiment of the present invention, this number is used to indicate the movement track of the guide pin cushion yarn;
  • the specific weaving process is:
  • JB1.1 20D nylon semi-gloss filament
  • JB1.2 20D polyester semi-gloss filament
  • GB2 20D polyester semi-gloss filament
  • GB3 20D nylon semi-gloss filament
  • GB4 70D spandex
  • Design the pattern and define the movement information of each Jacquard needle in each sequence Use the warp knitting CAD system to design the pattern, with the number of rows as the flower width, half of the number of rows as the flower height, and different effect units Different colors are used to form a flower-shaped jacquard effect bitmap (artisan map).
  • the flower width is 170 and the flower height is 330.
  • the specific yarn movement and corresponding jacquard needle movement information of A color pattern area a, B color pattern area b, pattern outline area c, bottom net area d, and elastic area e are:
  • the offset organization and movement information of the A-color pattern area a is: a-color pattern structure: JB1.1: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), a color pattern supplement stitch structure: JB1.1: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //), JB1.2: 1 -0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //);
  • the offset organization and action information of the B-color pattern area b is: b-color pattern organization: JB1.1: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), JB1.2: 1-0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //), b-color pattern stitching organization: JB1.1: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //), JB1.2: 1 -0 / 2-3 // (HH / TT //);
  • the offset tissue number and movement information of the C-colored bottom net area c are: Jaka knitting organization: JB1.1: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //) , JB1.2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), 2 pads of the bottom comb mesh organization Digital: GB2: 2-3 / 2-1 / 1-2 / 1- 0 / 1-2 / 2-1 //, GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 / 2-3 / 2-1 / 1-2 //;
  • the offset organization number and movement information of the pattern outline area d are: a color pattern outline structure: JB1.1: 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //), JB1 .2: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), b-color pattern outline organization: JB1.1: 1-0 / 0-1 // (TT / HH //), JB1.2 : 1-0 / 1-2 // (HH / HH //);
  • the yarn number of the elastic area e is: 1 pad yarn number of the bottom comb elastic area organization: GB4: 1-1 / 0-0 //.
  • the present invention adopts a specific Jaka offset process and uses two kinds of raw materials for two half-machine Jaka combs to produce a two-color jacquard effect, forming a two-color jacquard fabric with rich patterns.
  • the RSJ warp knit jacca two-color jacquard fabric weaves The method can form a two-color jacquard effect without the need for additional combs, which enriches the types of existing products, greatly simplifies the weaving method, fundamentally improves design efficiency and production efficiency, and uses high gauge and shiny yarns.
  • elastic yarns are used for weaving.
  • the texture of the fabric is light and delicate, and the hand feels soft and smooth. It is suitable for close-fitting and tight underwear apparel products, which improves the decoration, product quality and market competitiveness of warp knitted fabrics.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Abstract

一种经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，该三色提花织物包括A色花纹区、B色花纹区、C色底网区、花纹轮廓区和弹性区，具体编织方法为：(1)定义贾卡梳栉在不偏移状态下的基本横移信息；(2)A色花纹区由贾卡花纹组织和贾卡花纹补针组织组成；(3)B色花纹区由贾卡花纹组织和贾卡花纹补针组织组成；(4)C色底网区由贾卡网孔组织和底梳组织组成网孔结构；(5)花纹轮廓区是A色花纹区外轮廓或B色花纹区外轮廓的组织，用两把贾卡梳形成花纹轮廓组织；(6)弹性区由底梳组织组成，使用1把底梳编织弹性区组织。经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法能够实现质地细腻薄透的三色装饰性提花图案织物的生产，并且织物具备透气、防脱散的功能。

Description

经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法 技术领域
本发明涉及一种经编针织物编织方法，尤其是一种经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，属于纺织技术领域。
背景技术
RSJ经编贾卡提花织物是指在高机号RSJ系列贾卡拉舍尔经编机上生产的弹性或非弹性、底网紧密或网眼状的、具有立体或平面贾卡提花的织物，该织物在女性内衣、泳衣、塑身衣、运动服以及休闲服等领域已有广泛应用。RSJ系列机型机速高、生产率高，生产织物精致细腻、品质优异、手感滑爽。经编纵向线圈组织结构稳定、不易脱丝，贾卡梳的应用使RSJ织物既可生产具有丰富花型和网孔效应的装饰织物，又可以生产不同功能区的定位结构织物。已有织造方法主要用于生产单色织物，目前仅有常规双色织物，实现方法主要是通过底梳分段穿经实现规律的直条区域的局部双色效果。
RSJ经编贾卡三色提花织物是区别于单色织物以及常规双色织物的的特殊三色提花织物，其对编织原理、组织结构定义以及原料使用均有特殊的要求，常规织物生产所使用的工艺及原料方式，均不能满足此类用途织物的要求。
发明内容
本发明的目的是克服现有技术中存在的不足，提供一种经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，能够实现质地细腻薄透的三色装饰性提花图案织物的生产，并且具备透气、防脱散的功能。
按照本发明提供的技术方案，一种经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，在高机号RSJ***经编机上生产，RSJ经编机包括两把做同向垫纱运动的半机号贾卡梳栉，组成1把满机号梳栉，机器梳栉从机前到机后依次排列为贾卡梳栉JB1.1、JB1.2、2把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3和1把衬纬梳栉GB4，贾卡梳栉JB1.1在奇数纵行进行编织，JB1.2在偶数纵行进行编织，贾卡梳栉JB1.1、JB1.2为两把半机号贾卡梳栉组成一把满机号编织，成圈梳栉GB2、GB3为满机号编织，衬纬梳栉GB4为满机号编织；其特征是：所述经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法用于织造三色提花织物，包括A色花纹区、B色花纹区、C色底网区、花纹轮廓区和弹性区，具体编织方法为：
(1)定义贾卡梳栉在不偏移状态下的基本横移信息，具体垫纱组织和提花针的对应动作信息为：梳栉JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，穿A色纱线；梳栉JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，穿B色纱线；成圈梳栉GB2、GB3穿C色纱线，弹性梳GB4穿氨纶纱线；
(2)A色花纹区的编织：A色花纹区由贾卡花纹组织和贾卡花纹补针组织组成，贾卡花纹组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，贾卡花纹补针组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/2-3// (HH/TT//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)；
(3)B色花纹区的编织：B色花纹区由贾卡花纹组织和贾卡花纹补针组织组成，贾卡花纹组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，贾卡花纹补针组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)；
(4)C色底网区的编织：C色底网区由贾卡网孔组织和底梳组织组成网孔结构；
(5)花纹轮廓区的编织：花纹轮廓区是A色花纹区外轮廓或B色花纹区外轮廓使用的组织，用两把贾卡梳形成花纹轮廓组织，A色花纹轮廓组织的垫纱数码为：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，B色花纹轮廓组织的垫纱数码为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)；
(6)弹性区的编织：由底梳组织组成，使用1把底梳编织弹性区组织。
进一步地，所述步骤(4)中，贾卡网孔组织由贾卡编链组织形成，贾卡编链组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TTHH//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)；用两把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3做底梳梳组织的垫纱数码为：GB2：2-3/2-1/1-2/1-0/1-2/2-1//，GB3：1-0/1-2/2-1/2-3/2-1/1-2//。
进一步地，所述步骤(4)中贾卡网孔组织由贾卡编链组织形成，两把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3做密实组织形成底梳组织，垫纱数码为：GB2：1-0/0-1//，GB3：0-0/2-2//。
进一步地，所述步骤(6)中垫纱数码为：GB4：1-1/0-0//。
进一步地，所述梳栉JB1.1中穿20D锦纶半光长丝，JB1.2中穿20D涤纶半光长丝，GB2和GB3中穿20D锦纶半光长丝，GB4中穿70D氨纶，梳栉穿纱方式均为满穿。
本发明所述经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，能够实现质地细腻薄透的三色装饰性提花图案织物的生产，并且具备透气、防脱散的功能。
附图说明
图1为本发明所使用RSJ经编机成圈梳栉的侧面示意图。
图2为本发明所述RSJ经编贾卡三色提花织物的平面示意图。
图3为本发明的A色花纹区组织的梳栉垫纱运动图。
图4为本发明的B色花纹区组织的梳栉垫纱运动图。
图5为本发明的C色底网区组织的梳栉垫纱运动图。
图6为本发明的花纹轮廓区d的组织梳栉垫纱运动图。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体附图对本发明作进一步说明。
如图1所示，本发明所述经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，在高机号RSJ***经编机上生产，RSJ经编机包括两把做同向垫纱运动的半机号贾卡梳栉，组成1把满机号梳栉，机器梳栉从机前到机后依次排列为贾卡梳栉JB1.1、JB1.2、2把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3和1把衬纬梳栉GB4，贾卡梳栉JB1.1在奇数纵行进行编织，JB1.2在偶数纵行进行编织，JB1.1和JB1.2贾卡梳栉的控制信息使用不 偏移H和偏移T表示，贾卡梳栉JB1.1、JB1.2为两把半机号贾卡梳栉组成一把满机号编织，成圈梳栉GB2、GB3为满机号编织，衬纬梳栉GB4为满机号编织；
本发明所述经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法用于织造三色提花织物，包括A色花纹区、B色花纹区、C色底网区、花纹轮廓区和弹性区。具体编织方法为：
(1)定义贾卡梳栉在不偏移H状态下的基本横移信息，具体垫纱组织和提花针的对应动作信息为：梳栉JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，穿A色纱线；梳栉JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，穿B色纱线；成圈梳栉GB2、GB3穿C色纱线，弹性梳GB4穿氨纶纱线；
(2)A色花纹区的编织：A色花纹区由贾卡花纹组织和贾卡花纹补针组织组成，贾卡花纹组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，贾卡花纹补针组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)；
(3)B色花纹区的编织：B色花纹区由贾卡花纹组织和贾卡花纹补针组织组成，贾卡花纹组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，贾卡花纹补针组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)；
(4)C色底网区的编织：C色底网区由贾卡网孔组织和底梳组织组成，主要采用两种方式：
第一种方式，贾卡网孔组织由贾卡编链组织形成，贾卡编链组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TTHH//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)；用两把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3做底梳梳组织的垫纱数码为：GB2：2-3/2-1/1-2/1-0/1-2/2-1//，GB3：1-0/1-2/2-1/2-3/2-1/1-2//；
第二种方式，贾卡网孔组织由贾卡编链组织形成，两把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3做密实组织形成底梳组织，垫纱数码为：GB2：1-0/0-1//，GB3：0-0/2-2//；
C色底网区的网孔组织结构可根据需要灵活制定规律的组织结构；
(5)花纹轮廓区d的编织：花纹轮廓区d是A色花纹区外轮廓或B色花纹区外轮廓使用的组织，用两把贾卡梳形成花纹轮廓组织，A色花纹轮廓组织的垫纱数码为：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，B色花纹轮廓组织的垫纱数码为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)；
(6)弹性区的编织：由底梳组织组成，使用1把底梳编织弹性区组织，垫纱数码为：GB4：1-1/0-0//，弹性区组织结构可根据织物弹性需要灵活制定规律的组织结构。
实施例1：一种RSJ经编贾卡双色提花织物在机号为E28(每英寸28针)的RSJ系列贾卡拉舍尔经编机上生产，机型为RSJ4/1，共有4把梳栉；如图1所示，在本发明的生产过程中使用4把梳栉，从机前到机后梳栉的排列顺序依次为2把半机号贾卡梳栉JB1.1、JB1.2组成1把满机号梳栉，三把成圈型底梳梳栉GB2、GB3、GB4；RSJ经编机针床上的织针在机前位置自机头方向到机尾方向对相邻织针的针隙进行编号，织针针隙依次编号为0、1、2、3……，在本 发明实施例中采用该编号表示导纱针垫纱运动轨迹；
具体编织过程为：
选定原料：JB1.1：20D锦纶半光长丝，JB1.2：20D涤纶半光长丝，GB2、GB3：20D锦纶半光长丝，GB4：70D氨纶，梳栉穿纱方式均为满穿。
定制横移花盘或设置梳栉电子横移参数：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，GB2：2-3/2-1/1-2/1-0/1-2/2-1//，GB3：1-0/1-2/2-1/2-3/2-1/1-2//，GB4：1-1/0-0//；
设计花型，定义每个序列中各枚贾卡提花针的动作信息：使用经编针织物CAD***设计花型，以纵行数作为花宽，横列数的一半作为花高，不同的效应单元使用不同的颜色表示，从而形成花型的提花效应位图(意匠图)，本实施例花宽为170，花高为330。A色花纹区a、B色花纹区b、花纹轮廓区c、底网区d、弹性区e的具体垫纱运动和相应提花针动作信息为：
如图3所示，A色花纹区a的偏移组织和动作信息为：a色花纹组织：JB1.1：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，a色花纹补针组织：JB1.1：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)；
如图4所示，B色花纹区b的偏移组织和动作信息为：b色花纹组织：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，b色花纹补针组织：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)；
如图5所示，C色底网区c的偏移组织垫纱数码和动作信息为：贾卡编链组织：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，2把底梳网孔组织的垫纱数码：GB2：2-3/2-1/1-2/1-0/1-2/2-1//，GB3：1-0/1-2/2-1/2-3/2-1/1-2//；
如图6所示，花纹轮廓区d的偏移组织垫纱数码和动作信息为：a色花纹轮廓组织：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，b色花纹轮廓组织：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)；
弹性区e的纱数码为：1把底梳弹性区组织的垫纱数码：GB4：1-1/0-0//。
本发明采用特定贾卡偏移工艺配合2把半机号贾卡梳栉使用2种原料，产生双色提花效应，形成了花纹丰富的双色提花织物，本发明RSJ经编贾卡双色提花织物的编织方法不需要额外使用更多的梳栉就可形成双色提花效应，丰富了现有产品的种类，使编织方法大大简化，从根本上提高设计效率和生产效益，使用高机号、有光纱线以及弹性纱线进行配合编织，织物质地轻薄细腻，手感柔软滑爽，适合于做贴身和紧身内衣服饰类产品，提升了经编织物的装饰性、产品品质与市场竞争力。

Claims (5)

  1. 一种经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，在高机号RSJ***经编机上生产，RSJ经编机包括两把做同向垫纱运动的半机号贾卡梳栉，组成1把满机号梳栉，机器梳栉从机前到机后依次排列为贾卡梳栉JB1.1、JB1.2、2把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3和1把衬纬梳栉GB4，贾卡梳栉JB1.1在奇数纵行进行编织，JB1.2在偶数纵行进行编织，贾卡梳栉JB1.1、JB1.2为两把半机号贾卡梳栉组成一把满机号编织，成圈梳栉GB2、GB3为满机号编织，衬纬梳栉GB4为满机号编织；其特征是：所述经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法用于织造三色提花织物，包括A色花纹区、B色花纹区、C色底网区、花纹轮廓区和弹性区，具体编织方法为：
    (1)定义贾卡梳栉在不偏移状态下的基本横移信息，具体垫纱组织和提花针的对应动作信息为：梳栉JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，穿A色纱线；梳栉JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，穿B色纱线；成圈梳栉GB2、GB3穿C色纱线，弹性梳GB4穿氨纶纱线；
    (2)A色花纹区的编织：A色花纹区由贾卡花纹组织和贾卡花纹补针组织组成，贾卡花纹组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，贾卡花纹补针组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)；
    (3)B色花纹区的编织：B色花纹区由贾卡花纹组织和贾卡花纹补针组织组成，贾卡花纹组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)，贾卡花纹补针组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/2-3//(HH/TT//)；
    (4)C色底网区的编织：C色底网区由贾卡网孔组织和底梳组织组成网孔结构；
    (5)花纹轮廓区的编织：花纹轮廓区是A色花纹区外轮廓或B色花纹区外轮廓使用的组织，用两把贾卡梳形成花纹轮廓组织，A色花纹轮廓组织的垫纱数码为：JB1.1：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，B色花纹轮廓组织的垫纱数码为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)，JB1.2：1-0/1-2//(HH/HH//)；
    (6)弹性区的编织：由底梳组织组成，使用1把底梳编织弹性区组织。
  2. 如权利要求1所述的经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，其特征是：所述步骤(4)中，贾卡网孔组织由贾卡编链组织形成，贾卡编链组织垫纱数码和偏移信息为：JB1.1：1-0/0-1//(TTHH//)，JB1.2：1-0/0-1//(TT/HH//)；用两把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3做底梳梳组织的垫纱数码为：GB2：2-3/2-1/1-2/1-0/1-2/2-1//，GB3：1-0/1-2/2-1/2-3/2-1/1-2//。
  3. 如权利要求1所述的经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，其特征是：所述步骤(4)中贾卡网孔组织由贾卡编链组织形成，两把成圈梳栉GB2、GB3做密实组织形成底梳组织，垫纱数码为：GB2：1-0/0-1//，GB3：0-0/2-2//。
  4. 如权利要求1所述的经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，其特征是：所述步骤(6)中垫纱数码为：GB4：1-1/0-0//。
  5. 如权利要求1所述的经编贾卡三色提花织物的织造方法，其特征是：所述梳栉JB1.1中穿20D锦纶半光长丝，JB1.2中穿20D涤纶半光长丝，GB2和GB3中穿20D锦纶半光长丝，GB4中穿70D氨纶，梳栉穿纱方式均为满穿。
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