WO2019034573A1 - Composition cosmétique aqueuse comprenant un agent oxydant chimique, un polymère fixant et une montmorillonite - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique aqueuse comprenant un agent oxydant chimique, un polymère fixant et une montmorillonite Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019034573A1
WO2019034573A1 PCT/EP2018/071858 EP2018071858W WO2019034573A1 WO 2019034573 A1 WO2019034573 A1 WO 2019034573A1 EP 2018071858 W EP2018071858 W EP 2018071858W WO 2019034573 A1 WO2019034573 A1 WO 2019034573A1
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chosen
weight
copolymers
composition according
preferentially
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PCT/EP2018/071858
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English (en)
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Charlotte DELOSTAL
David Seneca
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/38—Percompounds, e.g. peracids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more fixing polymers, (iii) montmorillonite, and (iv) water, the pH of the composition being less than or equal to 7.
  • composition according to the invention is stable on storage over time, both at room temperature (20°C-25°C) and at higher temperatures, especially at 45°C.
  • stable on storage over time means that the following physical characteristics of the composition vary little, or even not at all, over time: appearance, pH, rheology (viscosity, consistency), titre of oxidizing agents.
  • the composition does not give rise to any phase separation (releasing) or exudation phenomena over time, especially after two months of storage, in particular at the intended storage temperature, especially at 45°C.
  • anionic fixing polymers bearing carboxylic or sulfonic groups that are preferred are:
  • anionic fixing polymer from this class, mention may also be made of the branched block butyl acrylate/acrylic acid/methacrylic acid anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company Lubrizol (INCI name: AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer).
  • Polymers also falling within this category are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an ⁇ -olefm, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • these polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the Applicant.
  • These polymers may be chosen especially from:
  • Avalure UR 450 Another anionic polyurethane that may also be used is Avalure UR 450. Polymers containing sulfoisophthalate groups, such as the polymers AQ55 and AQ48 sold by the company Eastman, may also be used.
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • copolymers of class (1) mention may be made of: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc® by the company Hercules,
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, and
  • chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies
  • chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.
  • methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt is methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers that can be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, in which B denotes a unit deriving from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit deriving from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups deriving from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers; B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon- based group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer containing an ethylenedicarboxylic unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary
  • amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
  • a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, a-chloroacrylic acid
  • a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide and acrylamide.
  • the vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium
  • At least one basic comonomer such as acrylic and methacrylic acid esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
  • N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert- butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecylacrylamide, and the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • the acidic comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
  • the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylamino ethyl, ⁇ , ⁇ '- dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
  • this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetramine or dipropylenetriamine;
  • the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4- trimethyladipic acid and terephthalic acid, and acids bearing an ethylenic double bond, for instance acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids.
  • the alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
  • R 5 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acryl amide or methacrylamide group
  • y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3
  • Re and R 7 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group
  • Rs and R represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in Rs and R9 does not exceed 10.
  • R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O, CH3CH2O or phenyl group
  • Ri5 denotes hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • Ri 6 denotes hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • R17 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R18- N(Ri6>2
  • Ri8 representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )- group and Ri6 having the meanings given above
  • E or E' denotes the symbol E or E', where E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which may comprise, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups.
  • E denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E';
  • E having the meaning given above and E' is a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and which contains one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted with an oxygen atom and necessarily comprises one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions, betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
  • (9) (Ci-Cs)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an ⁇ , ⁇ -dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N,N- dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialkanolamine.
  • These copolymers may also comprise other vinyl comonomers, such as viny lcapro lactam.
  • the amphoteric polymers have at least two glass transition temperatures (Tg), at least one of which is greater than 20°C and the other of which is less than 20°C.
  • amphoteric polymers are polymers comprising units derived: a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl group,
  • At least one basic comonomer such as acrylic and methacrylic acid esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
  • the fixing polymer(s) used in the composition of the invention may advantageously be chosen from nonionic fixing polymers.
  • the nonionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from:
  • vinyl acetate copolymers for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate,
  • styrene copolymers for instance copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith® LDM 6911, Mowilith® DM 611 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas® SD 215 and Rhodopas® DS 910 sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine,
  • alkyl (meth)acrylate such as the products Mowilith® LDM 6911, Mowilith® DM 611 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas® SD 215 and Rhod
  • vinyllactam homopolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by the company BASF,
  • vinyllactam copolymers such as poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymers, such as the product sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF, and poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by the company BASF, and
  • the alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, more preferentially such as those mentioned above.
  • the nonionic fixing polymer(s) are chosen from vinyllactam homopolymers and copolymers, more preferentially vinyllactam copolymers, even more preferentially chosen from poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymers, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers and mixtures of these polymers, and better still the fixing polymer is a nonionic fixing polymer chosen from poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers.
  • the fixing polymer(s) represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises montmorillonite.
  • This montmorillonite may be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • Use may thus be made of a natural clay rich in montmorillonite, such as the clays known under the name Terre de Sommieres.
  • montmorillonite sold under the name Gel White H by the company Rockwood Additives or Gel White-H XR by the company Byk Additives & Instruments. Mention may also be made of the montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by the company Kunimine.
  • the montmorillonite represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may preferably further comprise one or more fatty substances.
  • the term "fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (20- 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa), with a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%.
  • the fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon- based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethy Icy clopentasilo xane .
  • the fatty substances are, moreover, generally non-(poly)oxyalkylenated and non-(poly)glycerolated.
  • the fatty substances do not comprise in their structure a (poly)ethylene oxide or (poly)glycerol or (poly)propylene glycol unit.
  • the fatty substance(s) may be chosen from solid fatty substances and/or liquid fatty substances (also known as “oils”), and mixtures thereof.
  • oil means a "fatty substance” which is liquid, i.e. which is capable of flowing under the action of its own weight at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the viscosity at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 of the oil is between 10 "3 Pa.s and 2 Pa.s. It may be measured using a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with cone-plate geometry or an equivalent machine.
  • solid fatty substance means a fatty substance that is not liquid at room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013> ⁇ 10 5 Pa), in particular a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s "1 under the conditions mentioned above.
  • the solid fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention generally have a melting point above room temperature, preferably a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C, preferentially ranging from 46 to 95°C.
  • the fatty substance(s) may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based fatty substances, silicone fatty substances, fluoro fatty substances, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • silicone fatty substance means a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom.
  • non-silicone fatty substance means a fatty substance not containing any silicon (Si) atoms.
  • the silicone fatty substances may be a liquid silicone oil (also known as silicone oil or liquid silicone).
  • liquid silicone means an organopolysiloxane that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013> ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid silicone(s) are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the polydialkylsiloxanes are chosen in particular from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups, and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA).
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • the polyorganosiloxanes comprising aryl groups are chosen in particular from polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.
  • fluoro fatty substance means a fatty substance containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • fluoro fatty substances that may be mentioned include fluoro oils, for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclo butane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyiso butane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
  • fluoro oils for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentan
  • hydrocarbon-based fatty substance means a fatty substance formed essentially of, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based fatty substance(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and hydrocarbon-based solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrocarbon-based fatty substance(s) are advantageously chosen from hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, C 6 -Ci6 alkanes, triglycerides or oils of plant origin, liquid synthetic triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, or mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based fatty substance(s) may be hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from:
  • n H2n+iOH n H2n+iOH
  • oils of plant or synthetic origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; and
  • esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicap
  • composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term
  • sugar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from the polydecenes of formula Cio n H[(20n)+2] in which n ranges from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, fatty alcohols, esters and in particular esters of fatty alcohols or of fatty acids, sugar esters or diesters of C12-C24 fatty acids, cyclic esters, cyclic ethers, mineral oils, plant oils or animal oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from the polydecenes of formula Cio n H[(20n)+2] in which n ranges from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol or isostearyl alcohol, esters of fatty alcohols or of fatty acids, liquid petroleum jelly and liquid paraffin, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol or isostearyl alcohol, esters of fatty alcohols or of fatty acids, liquid petroleum jelly and liquid paraffin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances
  • the substance(s) that are liquid at room temperature are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and more preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, which is preferably hydrocarbon-based.
  • the composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more solid hydrocarbon-based fatty substances.
  • the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from fatty alcohols, and esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, and/or waxes, and also mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from waxes and/or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from solid hydrocarbon-based fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solid hydrocarbon-based fatty substances are chosen from waxes and/or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated solid fatty alcohols comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and/or solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
  • the solid fatty alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and comprise from 14 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from saturated and linear fatty alcohols comprising from 14 to 30 and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols do not comprise any C 2 - C3 (poly)oxyalkylene unit(s) or any (poly)glycerol unit(s).
  • the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and/or cetylstearyl alcohol may preferably be used.
  • the hydrocarbon-based solid fatty substance(s) may also be chosen from solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols; mention may be made especially of the solid esters derived from C -C 26 fatty acids and from C -C 26 fatty alcohols.
  • these esters may be chosen from octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate, preferably chosen from myristyl stearate and/or myristyl palmitate, for instance the mixture of myristyl stearate and of myristyl palmitate sold under the reference Crodamol Ms-PA (SG) by the company Croda.
  • SG Crod
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.
  • wax means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C that may be up to 120°C.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
  • D.S.C. differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • the wax(es) that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from apolar waxes.
  • apolar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined below, 5a, is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made especially of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
  • silicon wax means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, especially comprising Si-0 groups.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2 - C 6 )alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C6)alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci- C 4 )alkylarylsulfo nates .
  • R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • Re represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • Rs represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Ri7, Ri9 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • the alkyl groups R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxy ethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the anion X " is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • halide chloride, bromide or iodide
  • alkyl sulfate more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
  • Ris denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • x and y are equal to 1 ;
  • Ri6 is chosen from:
  • Ri8 is chosen from:
  • Ri7, Ri9 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (XV) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart ® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ® by the company CECA or Rewoquat ® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4137180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl- methylammonium salts.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (XII) and those of formula (XV) and even more preferentially from those of formula (XII).
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the invention may especially be optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X " represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;
  • B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X'
  • X represents the group -CH 2 -C(0)OH, -CH 2 -C(0)OZ', -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)OH, -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;
  • Y * represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z';
  • Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • Ra' represents a Cio-C 3 o alkyl or Cio-C 3 o alkenyl group of an acid Ra'- COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • the compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • Y represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z";
  • Rd and Re independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • Ra represents a Cio-C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-C(0)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
  • n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants it is preferred to use (Cs-C 2 o alkyl) betaines such as cocoyl betaine, (Cs-C 2 o alkyl)amido(C 2 -C8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropyl betaine and cocoyl betaine.
  • the surfactant(s) preferably represent from 0.1% to
  • the composition according to the invention comprises water.
  • the water represents from 50% to 95% by weight and more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of water and of at least one organic solvent to dissolve the compounds that are not sufficiently water-soluble.
  • the organic solvents are chosen from linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-l,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially of C1 -C4, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
  • monoalcohols or diols comprising
  • the common solvents described above if they are present, usually represent from 1% to 40% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention has a pH of less than or equal to 7.
  • the pH of the composition is between 2 and 7, more preferentially between 2 and 6 and even more preferentially between 2 and 5.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetic compositions, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid, or organic acids, for instance compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
  • mineral acids for instance hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid
  • organic acids for instance compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
  • phosphoric acid is used as acidifying agent.
  • the basifying agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid.
  • the mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.
  • organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (XVI) below:
  • R x , R y , R z , Rt and R u which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci to C 6 alkyl, Ci to C 6 hydroxyalkyl or Ci to C 6 aminoalkyl radical.
  • amines of formula (XVI) examples include 1,3- diaminopropane, l,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives.
  • additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents and pigments.
  • sunscreens including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents and pigments.
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is generally in the form of a cream.
  • the composition according to the invention generally has at room temperature a viscosity at 25°C of greater than 50 cps (mPa.s), preferably between 200 and 100 000 cps (mPa.s), more preferentially between 500 and 50 000 cps (mPa.s), more preferentially still between 800 and 10 000 cps (mPa.s), and better still between 1000 and 8000 cps (mPa.s), the viscosity preferably being measured at a spin speed of 200 rpm using a rheometer such as a Rheomat ® RM 180 equipped with a No. 3 or 4 spindle, the measurement more preferentially being taken after 30 seconds of rotation of the spindle (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed).
  • a viscosity at 25°C of greater than 50 cps (mPa.s), preferably between 200 and 100 000 cps (mPa.s),
  • the composition according to the invention preferably has a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.2 and 100 Pa.s, preferably between 0.5 and 50 Pa.s and more preferentially between 0.8 and 10 Pa.s.
  • the composition according to the invention has a viscosity at 25°C of between 1 and 8 Pa.s.
  • the viscosity is a rotational viscosity. More particularly, the rotational viscosity is measured at atmospheric pressure.
  • the viscosity is measured at a spin speed of 200 rpm using a
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for shaping and/or holding the style of keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of the composition as defined above for lightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • another subject of the present invention is a process for shaping and lightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said fibres the composition as defined above.
  • the composition may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, and particularly to wet keratin fibres.
  • the composition according to the invention is not rinsed out after application to the keratin fibres.
  • the process according to the invention is repeated several times. This makes it possible to obtain gradual lightening of the keratin fibres.
  • compositions A to C were prepared according to Table 1 below by the ingredients in the contents indicated as grams of active material.
  • the viscosity measurements are taken using a Rheomat RM180 at 25°C, at a spin speed of 200 rpm, with a No. 3 spindle (or even a No. 4 spindle in the case of very thick compositions) (measurement at 30 seconds). The values are indicated in centipoises.
  • compositions A to C are given in Table 2 below.
  • composition (A) comprising laponite shows an increase in the volume of the composition (due to the degradation of the hydrogen peroxide) after as little as 10 days of storage at 45°C, in contrast with composition (B) according to the invention comprising montmorillonite, which remains stable in terms of appearance, viscosity, pH and also H2O2 titre after 2 months of storage at 45°C.
  • composition (A) especially shows a marked increase in pH and viscosity, in contrast with composition (B) in which the variations are smaller.
  • Montmorillonite thus contributes towards improving the stability of hydrogen peroxide, but also towards stabilizing the texture of the composition.
  • Composition (C) which does not comprise any clay shows in particular a large increase in viscosity after 1 month of storage at 4°C and also a drop in pH. After 2 months of storage at room temperature, a drop in viscosity and pH is observed, along with the appearance of a release after 2 months of storage at 45°C.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant (i) un ou plusieurs agents oxydants chimiques, (ii) un ou plusieurs polymères fixants, (iii) montmorillonite, et (iv) de l'eau, le pH de la composition étant inférieur ou égal à 7. La présente invention concerne également l'utilisation de ladite composition pour la mise en forme et l'éclaircissement de fibres kératiniques, et en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines comme les cheveux. L'invention concerne enfin un procédé de mise en forme et d'éclaircissement de fibres kératiniques comprenant une étape d'application de la composition ci-dessus sur lesdites fibres.
PCT/EP2018/071858 2017-08-16 2018-08-13 Composition cosmétique aqueuse comprenant un agent oxydant chimique, un polymère fixant et une montmorillonite WO2019034573A1 (fr)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof

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