WO2019021301A1 - A stepped cut diamond with high brilliance - Google Patents

A stepped cut diamond with high brilliance Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019021301A1
WO2019021301A1 PCT/IN2018/050382 IN2018050382W WO2019021301A1 WO 2019021301 A1 WO2019021301 A1 WO 2019021301A1 IN 2018050382 W IN2018050382 W IN 2018050382W WO 2019021301 A1 WO2019021301 A1 WO 2019021301A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
diamond
facets
stepped
cut
girdle
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IN2018/050382
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Maheshbhai Shambhubhai KAKADIYA
Ashok kumar Narsinhbhai Donda
Original Assignee
Sksm Diamonds Impex Limited
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Sksm Diamonds Impex Limited filed Critical Sksm Diamonds Impex Limited
Publication of WO2019021301A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019021301A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the transformation of rough diamond into stepped faceted diamond with high brilliance, more particularly, relates to a cutting and faceting diamond that yield in significantly higher brilliance and weight retention. Furthermore the present invention discloses slant cutting of the stepped cut diamond in other embodiment.
  • Diamonds have annoyed and beguiled centuries for thousands of years, yet the exact history of the precious stone is unknown.
  • the word “diamond” is derived from an ancient Greek verb meaning “I tame” or “I subdue”.
  • the ancient Greeks used this word for the hardest substance known, but it is difficult to tell what that substance was.
  • the brilliance of an ornamental diamond is sensed by a viewer in such a manner that light is incident from the outside into the diamond and the incident light is reflected inside the diamond to reach the viewer.
  • the degree of brilliance of a diamond is determined by a quantity of the reflected light from the diamond.
  • the quantity of reflected light is usually evaluated by a physical quantity of reflected light.
  • Diamonds are commonly assessed in terms of the "4 Cs”: Cut, Clarity, Color, and Carat. Cut refers to both the geometric proportions of a gemstone and the final form into which the rough stone is shaped. The most prominent cuts in the industry are the round brilliant, oval, marquise, pear, heart, princess, trilliant, and radiant. A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation, in short, its appearance and appeal. Clarity is the measure by which a diamond is graded for purity, or whiteness.
  • the human perception is not determined by the physical quantity of reflected light only.
  • the diamond needs to provide a large quantity of light to be sensed by the viewer, i.e., a large quantity of physiologically or psychologically visually-perceived reflected light.
  • the Fechner's law states that the quantity of visually-perceived light is the logarithm of the physical quantity of light.
  • the Stevens' law is applied on the assumption that a light source is a point light source, the quantity of visually-perceived light is the square root of the physical quantity of light.
  • Diamonds may be cut into many different geometrical patterns which are known in the art as the round cut, oval cut, pear cut, marquis cut, princess cut, emerald cut, etc.
  • the most popular diamond cut is the standard round cut because of its brilliance and optical light and ling properties. Although caret weight and clarity are factors which will affect the value of the diamond independent of cut geometry, the most significant value is attributed to its optical properties and color.
  • a gemologist will refer to the optical properties of a diamond cut using terms of art such as brilliance, scintillation and symmetry.
  • Brilliance and scintillation correspond to the intensity of returned light
  • scintillation and symmetry relate to the cut parameters of the diamond and the degree to which the cut facets are aligned.
  • a diamond must possess cut parameters which are as close to perfect as possible.
  • a brilliance scope is currently used by most grading institutes, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gemological Society (AGS), for analyzing the loss of brilliance on an ideal cut round diamond. Both of these institutes, among others, specialize in grading the most valuable diamonds and the best cut grades available.
  • GAA Gemological Institute of America
  • AGS American Gemological Society
  • emerald and cushion cut diamonds have associated therewith certain parameters. These parameters include the crown angle, the crown height percentage, the girdle height percentage, the pavilion angle, the table percentage and the total depth percentage. Conventionally, the crown angle for an emerald cut is in the range of 35-36°. The pavilion angle is in the range of 40-41.5°.
  • emerald cut diamonds do not provide the brilliance and light reflecting experience which is the hallmark of the round, brilliant cut stones.
  • the diamond trade has invested enormous efforts in searching for and attempting to find cuts that would increase the brilliance of oblong gemstones such as the emerald and cushion cut stones.
  • the diamond Since, in general, the diamond is viewed by looking down at the table and crown facets, it is desirable to induce the maximum amount of light possible through the table and crown facets, down into the stone where it is reflected off of the interior surfaces of the base facets across to the opposite base facets and then back out through the table and crown facets to the viewer.
  • the more optimal the configuration of the stone the more even, intense and uniform is the reflected dome of light perceived by the viewer.
  • the main object of the present invention is to provide stepped cut diamond with has high brilliance and weight retention.
  • Another object of this invention is to provide an ornamental diamond having a pavilion with stepped numerous stripes facets, which allows a viewer to sense extreme brightness when the diamond is viewed from above the table facets thereof.
  • a further object of the present invention is to provide a diamond which differs from the vertical facet cutting along with angular stepped cutting facet which gives more value to diamond, notably because it reflects more light from the pavilion.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide diamond with extended culet portion that reflects as cumulative pattern for the reflection of the light in the diamond.
  • Yet another object of the diamond is to provide the crown with short height and wide table area to provide high reflection area in the diamond. Yet another object of the present invention is to provide diamond with thin crown and angular stepped cut pavilion that compensatively increase the brilliance in the diamond to resemble three dimension effects when viewed from the table portion of the diamond.
  • the another object of the present invention is to provide diamond cut that have increased weight retention, refractive in terms of good brilliance with respect to current state of art.
  • the further object of the present invention is to provide slanted step facet cut diamond with thin crown height that enhance cumulative brilliance in the diamond.
  • the present invention relates to a stepped cut diamond.
  • the present invention discloses diamond cut with gradually stepped cut facets in pavilion of the diamond for cumulative reflection and dispersion of the light that provides three dimensional views when looked from the table.
  • the schema of the present invention relates to the thin and single facet crown and multiple angular faceted pavilion facets with extended culet that provide multiple reflection pattern in the diamond.
  • the advantages of the present invention are to provide faceted diamond that provides good weight retention, enhanced brilliance and economical compared to current state of the art.
  • the ladder type cut in the pavilion and extended culet at the bottom of the pavilion provides additive to brilliance in the diamond.
  • the present invention discloses the slant faceted stepped cut diamond with cumulative reflection pattern in the diamond.
  • Fig.l shows the bottom view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention.
  • Fig. 2 shows the top view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention.
  • Fig. 3 shows the general principal of calculation of the total depth of the diamond from the raw diamond.
  • Fig. 4 shows side view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention from the corner (4).
  • Fig. 5 shows side view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention from long side of the diamond
  • Fig. 6 shows side view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention from short side of the diamond
  • Fig. 7 shows bottom view of the diamond as alternate embodiment of the present invention from long side of the diamond
  • Fig. 8 shows bottom view of the basic horizontal facet in alternate embodiment of the present invention
  • Fig. 9 shows bottom view of the basic horizontal facet in numbered mode as per alternate embodiment of the present invention
  • Fig. 10 shows bottom view of the slanted facet in long side (L) & short side (S') of the diamond in alternate embodiment of the present invention
  • Fig. 11 shows the crown view of the diamond as alternate embodiment of the present invention.
  • Fig. 12 shows side view of the diamond as alternate embodiment of the present invention from the corner (4).
  • Fig. 13 shows side view of the diamond as alternate embodiment of the present invention from short side of the diamond
  • Fig. 1 depicts a generalized representation of a first embodiment of the present invention in which a diamond (D) is shown from bottom view.
  • the process of preparing block on raw diamond is important in the present invention as circumference described in (Fig. 3) plays vital role in deciding the fate of the diamond.
  • the process of mapping and blocking are focused on various defects (if any) in the raw diamonds i.e. flawless, internally flawless and very slightly flawless that may change the pattern of cut for more perfect shape.
  • the mapping ultimately decides the dimension of the final diamond where circumferential value of diamond plays vital role in deciding L/W ratio of the diamond (D).
  • the gist of selection of the perfect diamond from the raw diamond depended on the numerous factors like impurity, defect, presence of blind spot etc.
  • the present embodiment utilizes the depth in the range of 60-65% and L/W ratio is selected in the range of 1.3 - 1.4.
  • the total height of crown and girdle limits in 5-10% of the total depth of the diamond.
  • the diamond is marked accordingly in shrine machine for further processing.
  • the diamond is first given a shape of rectangular block through cutting rough diamond in parallel sides that provide pair of long and short side in the diamond. With the view to understand the geometry in conclusive way parallel pairs of long and short sides are identified as L, L' and S, S' respectively.
  • the corners of the four sides are identically cut with view to create emerald shape of the diamond.
  • the marking of crown and girdle height will be done in the sarine machine.
  • the present invention provides high brilliance diamond with lesser crown height as described in the object of the invention. Therefore, the cut performed in the pavilion plays most crucial role to achieve high brilliance in diamond.
  • Fig. 1 describes best perceptive schema of the present invention in preferred embodiment. After marking the diamond as per height of crown and girdle the diamond (D) is ready for cut from the height of the pavilion.
  • both long sides of the diamond are cut, from the height determined by sarine machine, at the angle ranges from 50°-55° with respect to plane of girdle.
  • the said facets are primary facets and numbered as "F" in Fig. 1.
  • height of each stepped facet, of long sides (L-L') is kept uniform therefore the height of each facet will be l/3 rd height of the total pavilion.
  • diamond (D) is stepped cut at the angle ranges from 40°-45° with respect to plane of table.
  • the said facets are secondary facets and named as "D".
  • diamond is further cut at the angle ranges from 32°-37° with respect to plane of table.
  • the said facets are tertiary facets and named as "B".
  • the tertiary facets at both the long side results in extended culet portion at the bottom of the diamond.
  • facets are made on the long sides (i.e. L-L') of diamond, remaining short sides (i.e. S-S') diamond are cut at the angle ranges from 50°- 55° with respect to plane of girdle.
  • the said facets are primary stepped facets and numbered as "Fl”.
  • the said cut are named as secondary stepped facets and named as "Dl”.
  • diamond is cut at the angle of range between 32°-37° with respect to plane of table.
  • the said cut is tertiary stepped facets and numbered as "Bl”.
  • next stepped corner facets are made on each corner (1-4) at the angle of 50°-55° and subsequently at the angle of 40°-45° with respect to plane of girdle.
  • These facets are numbered as “F2" and "D2" respectively.
  • These corner facets are made on primary and secondary stepped facets made on long and short ends (S-S', L-L') only.
  • the tertiary facets are not cut to have corner facet.
  • This specific arrangement provides four sides of reflection at the bottom of the pavilion region along with extended culet (CT) that concentrate the light rays in bottom region of pavilion and reflect the same in upward direction in the diamond (D).
  • CT extended culet
  • Fig. 1 total number of facets pavilion portion are 20 where culet (CT) extended and emerged on the top of pavilion and facets emerged as ladder type stepped cut towards the girdle plan of the diamond.
  • ⁇ Angles are described with respect to girdle plane.
  • the crown is made up of thin and single facet.
  • This characteristic provides wide table surface area compared to other diamonds.
  • This phenomenon lead to provide wide reflection and refraction out put rays that enhance brilliance in the system.
  • the present diamond has stepped cut pavilion that provide multiple reflection that facilitates cumulating means for rays in the system.
  • the schema of the present invention provides reflection pattern in three dimension impression where the wide table area facilitates the object of the present invention by providing platform.
  • the angles of facets to be made on crown of the document (D) are described in Table -2. .
  • ⁇ Angles are described with respect to girdle plane.
  • Fig. 4 shows side view of the diamond (D) at corner (4), the corner facet is positioned between facets made on short (S') and long side (L) of the diamond.
  • the corner facet plays crucial role in brilliance enhancement where loss of the light occurs if the corners are acute or reflection capacity got compromised due to perpendicular arrangement of adjacent facets.
  • the stepped cut arrangement can be tracked from the Fig. 4 where angular stepped cut facets are shown.
  • the said arrangement is unique in nature where the facets are ladder type cut from the girdle to culet (CT) in parallel manner.
  • CT girdle to culet
  • the height of crown and girdle thickness is relatively less compared to height of pavilion.
  • This arrangement provides high brilliance and additional advantage of weight retention that increases the economical value of the diamond. It's noted that rough diamond are available in the versatile size and shape as they are available in natural form. First ever process step to be performed on the diamond is assorting of the same.
  • the process of mapping involves magnification of each diamond in the machine to have cut of the design.
  • the process of mapping will figure out the best possible shapes of the diamond in order to minimize waste and maximize the yield of the rough diamonds.
  • the process of mapping also focused on various defects in the raw diamonds i.e. flawless, internally flawless, very slightly included that changes design for more perfect shape.
  • the mapping ultimately decides the dimension of the final diamond where circumferential value of diamond plays vital role in deciding L/W ratio of the diamond (D).
  • Fig. 5 describes the diamond in side view with corners 1 and 4.
  • the culet (CT) is prospectively visible at full extent in Fig. 5.
  • the diamond (D) provides ladder type arrangement in specified cut angle shown in the table-1.
  • the depth of the diamond is relatively higher that provides good means for weight retention.
  • the total height of the pavilion prevails in the diamond (D) is approximately 50-55% of circumference value of diamond while crown height is approximately 2-5% of circumferential value of diamond.
  • Fig. 6 describes side view of the diamond (D) with perspective view at corners 1 and 2.
  • the culet (CT) is prospectively visible as pin point from the side view in the Fig. 5.
  • the present view provides perspective view of short side (S) where pyramidal arrangement of facet is visible from the side view and pile of the facets which is parallel to the table plane (T).
  • central wide facets (Fl, Dl, Bl) are belongs to short side (S) of the diamond (D).
  • These facets are made at range of angles with respect to girdle plane at 50-55°, 40°-45° and 32-37° respectively.
  • the height of each facet is regulated by the length/width ratio where the higher ratio leads to increase the height of the facet.
  • the angles describe in the Table-1 is optimized range for the diamond which has L/W ratio in the range of 1.3 - 1.4.
  • the ladder type arrangement shown in Fig. 5 provides means for multiple means of reflection in the diamond (D). The comparison made against the single facet cut diamond where light loss is apparent due to flat surface of the pavilion while stepped cut in the present invention minimizes the light loss in the pavilion region.
  • Fig. 7 describes the bottom view of the second preferred embodiment of the present invention.
  • This embodiment provides the slanted stepped cut facets.
  • the core schema of the arrangement remains same as described in the first embodiment.
  • the total height of crown and girdle remains between 5-10 % of the total depth.
  • the marking and blocking of the diamond (D') remains at par with first embodiment diamond (D).
  • the diamond (D') is first given a shape of rectangular block through cutting rough diamond in parallel sides that provide pair of long and short side in the diamond. With the view to understand the geometry in conclusive way parallel pairs of long and short sides are identified as L, L' and S, S' respectively.
  • the corners of the four sides are identically cut with view to create emerald shape of the diamond.
  • the marking of crown and girdle height will be done in the sarine machine.
  • Fig. 7 describes best perceptive schema of the present invention in preferred embodiment. After marking the diamond as per height of crown and girdle the diamond (D') is ready for cut from the height of the pavilion.
  • the schema of the present invention remains same in the both embodiments where stepped cut diamond is faceted to enhance brilliance in the diamond.
  • First the stepped facets are made on the long and short sides of the diamond (D').
  • primary steps of diamond processing remain same as of first embodiment diamond (D) except angles of facets may differ.
  • the long sides (L-L') and short side (S-S') of diamond (D') have primary, secondary and tertiary facets at the angle of 52-55°, 40°-45° and 25°-30° respectively.
  • the said facets are numbered as F, D, B respectively on long sides (L-L') and Fl, Dl and Bl respectively on short sides (S-S').
  • Table - 4 After having abovementioned facets on the pavilion portion total number of facets are 12 and junction of short and long sides of diamond (D') are perpendicular to each other.
  • the diamond (D') is ready to be facet on the stepped cut diamond.
  • the present embodiment discloses the crossed slanting facet cut on already stepped cut facet. The same is a complex in nature to understand on two dimension diagram. Therefore, to avoid ambiguities first long side L facet crossed slanting is described in Fig. 10 as of basic stepped cut facet as described in the Table - 4. As shown in Fig. 9, for the purpose of convenience edge points are numbered as ⁇ - ⁇ ', ⁇ - ⁇ ', ⁇ - ⁇ ' respectively for primary, secondary and tertiary facets of the long side (L) of diamond (D').
  • slanting cut is made on the primary stepped facet (F) of long side (L) at the K to M' at the angle ranges of 50°-52°.
  • the said facet is numbered as "E”. It divides the original stepped facet "F” in half.
  • slanted facet on secondary facet (D) made between the edge point M-N' at the angle of 40°-43° from the angle of girdle plane.
  • the said facet is numbered as "C”.
  • After having slant facet on secondary facet the last facet is made on tertiary facet (B) from edge point "N" at the angle ranges from 22°-28°.
  • the same type of facets are made on opposite long side (L') and after that short sides (i.e. S-S') to have complete slanting pattern as per this embodiment.
  • the facets made on short side (S-S') are numbered as Al, Bl and CI. Once total slanting facets are made number of facets will be 24.
  • the crown is made up of thin and single facet. On the other side these characteristic provides wide table surface area compared to other diamonds as described in first embodiment.
  • Fig. 12 shows side view of the diamond (D') at corner (4), the corner facet is positioned between facets made on short (S') and long side (L) of the diamond (D').
  • the cross slanting facet "F" on primary stepped facet “E” is shown in perspective view.
  • A, C and E are slanted facets made on long side (L) while Al, CI and El are slanted facet on short side (S') of diamond (D').
  • CT extended culet
  • the heights of diamond (D') in terms of crown, pavilion and girdle are described in the following table-7.
  • Fig. 12 shows side view of diamond (D') at long side (L) between corner 1 & 4. Facets are piled on each other in slanted manner therefore angular arrangement provides zigzag compilation of facets. The difference of angular cut of adjacent facet is in the ranges of 2°-3°. The said arrangement provides enhance brilliance by the way of multiple reflection at minute level as the stepped cut and slanted cut provides multiple means for light reflection and reduces light loss from the pavilion portion.
  • the specific arrangement of the present embodiment provides high surface area in terms of light reflection.
  • Fig. 13 describes side view of the diamond (D') at short side (S') at the corner 4 & 3.
  • This figure shows culet (CT) in a pointed arrangement from the side view.
  • CT culet
  • the angle between primary stepped facets and slanted facets ranges form 9°-14° that may change on the L/W ratio of the diamond.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a stepped cut diamond. The present invention discloses diamond cut with gradually stepped cut facets in pavilion of the diamond for cumulative reflection and dispersion of the light that provides three dimensional views when looked from the table (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7). The schema of the present invention relates to the thin and single facet crown and multiple angular faceted pavilion facets with extended culet that provide multiple reflection pattern in the diamond. The advantages of the present invention are to provide faceted diamond that provides good weight retention, enhanced brilliance and economical compared to current state of the art. The ladder type cut in the pavilion and extended culet at the bottom of the pavilion provides additive to brilliance in the diamond. In the second most preferred embodiment the present invention discloses the cross stripped faceted stepped cut diamond with cumulative reflection pattern in the diamond.

Description

A STEPPED CUT DIAMOND WITH HIGH BRILLIANCE
Field of the invention
The present invention relates to the transformation of rough diamond into stepped faceted diamond with high brilliance, more particularly, relates to a cutting and faceting diamond that yield in significantly higher brilliance and weight retention. Furthermore the present invention discloses slant cutting of the stepped cut diamond in other embodiment.
Background and prior art of the invention
Diamonds have fascinated and beguiled mankind for thousands of years, yet the exact history of the precious stone is unknown. The word "diamond" is derived from an ancient Greek verb meaning "I tame" or "I subdue". The ancient Greeks used this word for the hardest substance known, but it is difficult to tell what that substance was.
The first diamonds were probably discovered around 800 BCE in riverbeds in India, and these alluvial deposits were rich enough to supply most of the world's supply until the eighteenth century. Precious stones, such as diamond, topaz, corundum, beryl and quartz etc., are often used in jewelry, such as rings and necklaces, because of their high brilliance and/or color.
Although polishing and grinding with diamond dust was known from the thirteenth century, the first reference to diamond cutting is in 1550 in Antwerp, the most important diamond center of the period. Before the 1900's, the various shaped cuts of diamonds, such as the Table Cut, the Old Single Cut, the Rose Cut, and the European or Old Mine cut, varied widely in appearance. Because of the limitations of technology, these diamonds had very small tables, large culets, and short pavilion facets; but there was no single widely-recognized or agreed-upon standard of cutting them.
Eventually, stone cutters became aware of and began to understand the effects of refraction and reflection on the optical path of light within the gem and how to control it through angles, surfaces and proportions. As the art of gem cutting evolved, it has become widely accepted that the brilliant cut is the optimal cut for simultaneously maximizing the fire, lustre, scintillation and brilliance of the stone.
The brilliance of an ornamental diamond is sensed by a viewer in such a manner that light is incident from the outside into the diamond and the incident light is reflected inside the diamond to reach the viewer. The degree of brilliance of a diamond is determined by a quantity of the reflected light from the diamond. The quantity of reflected light is usually evaluated by a physical quantity of reflected light.
Diamonds are commonly assessed in terms of the "4 Cs": Cut, Clarity, Color, and Carat. Cut refers to both the geometric proportions of a gemstone and the final form into which the rough stone is shaped. The most prominent cuts in the industry are the round brilliant, oval, marquise, pear, heart, princess, trilliant, and radiant. A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation, in short, its appearance and appeal. Clarity is the measure by which a diamond is graded for purity, or whiteness.
The human perception, however, is not determined by the physical quantity of reflected light only. For letting a viewer sense beauty of a diamond, the diamond needs to provide a large quantity of light to be sensed by the viewer, i.e., a large quantity of physiologically or psychologically visually-perceived reflected light. There are the Fechner's law and Stevens' law as to the quantity of light perceived by humans. The Fechner's law states that the quantity of visually-perceived light is the logarithm of the physical quantity of light. When the Stevens' law is applied on the assumption that a light source is a point light source, the quantity of visually-perceived light is the square root of the physical quantity of light.
The beauty of a properly cut diamond gemstone derives from the manner in which the cut facets of the diamond reflect and refract light. Diamonds may be cut into many different geometrical patterns which are known in the art as the round cut, oval cut, pear cut, marquis cut, princess cut, emerald cut, etc. The most popular diamond cut is the standard round cut because of its brilliance and optical light and ling properties. Although caret weight and clarity are factors which will affect the value of the diamond independent of cut geometry, the most significant value is attributed to its optical properties and color.
A gemologist will refer to the optical properties of a diamond cut using terms of art such as brilliance, scintillation and symmetry. Brilliance and scintillation correspond to the intensity of returned light, and scintillation and symmetry relate to the cut parameters of the diamond and the degree to which the cut facets are aligned. To provide the highest possible level of scintillation with minimal loss in brilliance when analyzed with a brilliance scope, a diamond must possess cut parameters which are as close to perfect as possible.
A brilliance scope is currently used by most grading institutes, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gemological Society (AGS), for analyzing the loss of brilliance on an ideal cut round diamond. Both of these institutes, among others, specialize in grading the most valuable diamonds and the best cut grades available.
As is well known, emerald and cushion cut diamonds have associated therewith certain parameters. These parameters include the crown angle, the crown height percentage, the girdle height percentage, the pavilion angle, the table percentage and the total depth percentage. Conventionally, the crown angle for an emerald cut is in the range of 35-36°. The pavilion angle is in the range of 40-41.5°.
Further, emerald cut diamonds do not provide the brilliance and light reflecting experience which is the hallmark of the round, brilliant cut stones. The diamond trade has invested enormous efforts in searching for and attempting to find cuts that would increase the brilliance of oblong gemstones such as the emerald and cushion cut stones.
Since, in general, the diamond is viewed by looking down at the table and crown facets, it is desirable to induce the maximum amount of light possible through the table and crown facets, down into the stone where it is reflected off of the interior surfaces of the base facets across to the opposite base facets and then back out through the table and crown facets to the viewer. The more optimal the configuration of the stone, the more even, intense and uniform is the reflected dome of light perceived by the viewer.
In a concluding remark, there is a need for the improvement in cutting and faceting the diamond which provides high weight retention and high brilliance that can overcome the odds of brilliant cut diamond.
Object of the invention
The main object of the present invention is to provide stepped cut diamond with has high brilliance and weight retention.
Another object of this invention is to provide an ornamental diamond having a pavilion with stepped numerous stripes facets, which allows a viewer to sense extreme brightness when the diamond is viewed from above the table facets thereof.
A further object of the present invention is to provide a diamond which differs from the vertical facet cutting along with angular stepped cutting facet which gives more value to diamond, notably because it reflects more light from the pavilion.
Another object of the present invention is to provide diamond with extended culet portion that reflects as cumulative pattern for the reflection of the light in the diamond.
Yet another object of the diamond is to provide the crown with short height and wide table area to provide high reflection area in the diamond. Yet another object of the present invention is to provide diamond with thin crown and angular stepped cut pavilion that compensatively increase the brilliance in the diamond to resemble three dimension effects when viewed from the table portion of the diamond.
The another object of the present invention is to provide diamond cut that have increased weight retention, refractive in terms of good brilliance with respect to current state of art.
The further object of the present invention is to provide slanted step facet cut diamond with thin crown height that enhance cumulative brilliance in the diamond.
Summary of the Invention
The present invention relates to a stepped cut diamond. The present invention discloses diamond cut with gradually stepped cut facets in pavilion of the diamond for cumulative reflection and dispersion of the light that provides three dimensional views when looked from the table. The schema of the present invention relates to the thin and single facet crown and multiple angular faceted pavilion facets with extended culet that provide multiple reflection pattern in the diamond. The advantages of the present invention are to provide faceted diamond that provides good weight retention, enhanced brilliance and economical compared to current state of the art. The ladder type cut in the pavilion and extended culet at the bottom of the pavilion provides additive to brilliance in the diamond. In the second most preferred embodiment the present invention discloses the slant faceted stepped cut diamond with cumulative reflection pattern in the diamond.
Brief Description of the Drawings
Fig.l shows the bottom view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention.
Fig. 2 shows the top view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention.
Fig. 3 shows the general principal of calculation of the total depth of the diamond from the raw diamond.
Fig. 4 shows side view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention from the corner (4).
Fig. 5 shows side view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention from long side of the diamond
Fig. 6 shows side view of the diamond as preferred embodiment of the present invention from short side of the diamond
Fig. 7 shows bottom view of the diamond as alternate embodiment of the present invention from long side of the diamond
Fig. 8 shows bottom view of the basic horizontal facet in alternate embodiment of the present invention
Fig. 9 shows bottom view of the basic horizontal facet in numbered mode as per alternate embodiment of the present invention
Fig. 10 shows bottom view of the slanted facet in long side (L) & short side (S') of the diamond in alternate embodiment of the present invention Fig. 11 shows the crown view of the diamond as alternate embodiment of the present invention.
Fig. 12 shows side view of the diamond as alternate embodiment of the present invention from the corner (4).
Fig. 13 shows side view of the diamond as alternate embodiment of the present invention from short side of the diamond
Detailed description of the Invention
Before explaining the present invention in detail, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited in its application to the details of the construction and arrangement of parts illustrated in the accompany drawings. The invention is capable of other embodiments, as depicted in figure as described above and of being practiced or carried out in a variety of ways. It is to be understood that the phraseology and terminology employed herein is for the purpose of description and not of limitation. In the description which follows, like parts are marked throughout the specification and drawings with the same respective reference numerals. The drawings are not necessarily to scale and in some instances proportions may have been exaggerated in order to more clearly depict certain features of the invention.
Fig. 1 depicts a generalized representation of a first embodiment of the present invention in which a diamond (D) is shown from bottom view.
The process of preparing block on raw diamond is important in the present invention as circumference described in (Fig. 3) plays vital role in deciding the fate of the diamond. The process of mapping and blocking are focused on various defects (if any) in the raw diamonds i.e. flawless, internally flawless and very slightly flawless that may change the pattern of cut for more perfect shape. The mapping ultimately decides the dimension of the final diamond where circumferential value of diamond plays vital role in deciding L/W ratio of the diamond (D). The gist of selection of the perfect diamond from the raw diamond depended on the numerous factors like impurity, defect, presence of blind spot etc. The present embodiment utilizes the depth in the range of 60-65% and L/W ratio is selected in the range of 1.3 - 1.4. As described in the object of the present invention the total height of crown and girdle limits in 5-10% of the total depth of the diamond. The diamond is marked accordingly in shrine machine for further processing.
The diamond is first given a shape of rectangular block through cutting rough diamond in parallel sides that provide pair of long and short side in the diamond. With the view to understand the geometry in conclusive way parallel pairs of long and short sides are identified as L, L' and S, S' respectively. The corners of the four sides are identically cut with view to create emerald shape of the diamond. Once the basic emerald shape of the diamond is achieved, the marking of crown and girdle height will be done in the sarine machine. The present invention provides high brilliance diamond with lesser crown height as described in the object of the invention. Therefore, the cut performed in the pavilion plays most crucial role to achieve high brilliance in diamond. Fig. 1 describes best perceptive schema of the present invention in preferred embodiment. After marking the diamond as per height of crown and girdle the diamond (D) is ready for cut from the height of the pavilion.
First, both long sides of the diamond are cut, from the height determined by sarine machine, at the angle ranges from 50°-55° with respect to plane of girdle. The said facets are primary facets and numbered as "F" in Fig. 1. In the present embodiment height of each stepped facet, of long sides (L-L'), is kept uniform therefore the height of each facet will be l/3rd height of the total pavilion. After having the primary stepped facets at long side, diamond (D) is stepped cut at the angle ranges from 40°-45° with respect to plane of table. The said facets are secondary facets and named as "D". After having the secondary facets on the long side, diamond is further cut at the angle ranges from 32°-37° with respect to plane of table. The said facets are tertiary facets and named as "B". The tertiary facets at both the long side results in extended culet portion at the bottom of the diamond.
Once the facets are made on the long sides (i.e. L-L') of diamond, remaining short sides (i.e. S-S') diamond are cut at the angle ranges from 50°- 55° with respect to plane of girdle. The said facets are primary stepped facets and numbered as "Fl". After having the primary stepped facets at short side, diamond is cut at the angle of 40°-45° with respect to plane of girdle. The said cut are named as secondary stepped facets and named as "Dl". After having the secondary facets on the short side, diamond is cut at the angle of range between 32°-37° with respect to plane of table. The said cut is tertiary stepped facets and numbered as "Bl". Once the tertiary facets are made on the short side (S-S'), the culet (CT) is emerged at full extent. After having abovementioned facets on the pavilion portion total number of facets are 12 and junction of short and long sides are perpendicular to each other.
In the next stepped corner facets are made on each corner (1-4) at the angle of 50°-55° and subsequently at the angle of 40°-45° with respect to plane of girdle. These facets are numbered as "F2" and "D2" respectively. These corner facets are made on primary and secondary stepped facets made on long and short ends (S-S', L-L') only. The tertiary facets are not cut to have corner facet. This specific arrangement provides four sides of reflection at the bottom of the pavilion region along with extended culet (CT) that concentrate the light rays in bottom region of pavilion and reflect the same in upward direction in the diamond (D). As shown in Fig. 1 total number of facets pavilion portion are 20 where culet (CT) extended and emerged on the top of pavilion and facets emerged as ladder type stepped cut towards the girdle plan of the diamond.
After completion of the facets on four sides of pavilion (L, L', S and S') culet (CT) emerged as extended rib at the top of pavilion. The angles of facets to be made on pavilion of the diamond (D) are described in Table - 1 for ready reference.
Figure imgf000013_0001
F 50°-55°
Bl 32°-37°
Dl 40°-45°
Fl 50°-55°
D2 40°-45°
F2 50°-55°
Table 1.
^Angles are described with respect to girdle plane.
As shown in Fig. 2, the crown is made up of thin and single facet. This characteristic provides wide table surface area compared to other diamonds. This phenomenon lead to provide wide reflection and refraction out put rays that enhance brilliance in the system. Further the present diamond has stepped cut pavilion that provide multiple reflection that facilitates cumulating means for rays in the system. The schema of the present invention provides reflection pattern in three dimension impression where the wide table area facilitates the object of the present invention by providing platform. The angles of facets to be made on crown of the document (D) are described in Table -2. .
Figure imgf000014_0001
Table - 2
^Angles are described with respect to girdle plane.
Fig. 4 shows side view of the diamond (D) at corner (4), the corner facet is positioned between facets made on short (S') and long side (L) of the diamond. The corner facet plays crucial role in brilliance enhancement where loss of the light occurs if the corners are acute or reflection capacity got compromised due to perpendicular arrangement of adjacent facets. The stepped cut arrangement can be tracked from the Fig. 4 where angular stepped cut facets are shown. The said arrangement is unique in nature where the facets are ladder type cut from the girdle to culet (CT) in parallel manner. As shown in Fig 4, the height of crown and girdle thickness is relatively less compared to height of pavilion. This arrangement provides high brilliance and additional advantage of weight retention that increases the economical value of the diamond. It's noted that rough diamond are available in the versatile size and shape as they are available in natural form. First ever process step to be performed on the diamond is assorting of the same.
The process of mapping involves magnification of each diamond in the machine to have cut of the design. The process of mapping will figure out the best possible shapes of the diamond in order to minimize waste and maximize the yield of the rough diamonds. The process of mapping also focused on various defects in the raw diamonds i.e. flawless, internally flawless, very slightly included that changes design for more perfect shape. The mapping ultimately decides the dimension of the final diamond where circumferential value of diamond plays vital role in deciding L/W ratio of the diamond (D).
The heights of diamond in terms of crown, pavilion and girdle are described in the following table-3.
Figure imgf000016_0001
Table-3
Fig. 5 describes the diamond in side view with corners 1 and 4. The culet (CT) is prospectively visible at full extent in Fig. 5. The diamond (D) provides ladder type arrangement in specified cut angle shown in the table-1. The depth of the diamond is relatively higher that provides good means for weight retention. The total height of the pavilion prevails in the diamond (D) is approximately 50-55% of circumference value of diamond while crown height is approximately 2-5% of circumferential value of diamond.
Fig. 6 describes side view of the diamond (D) with perspective view at corners 1 and 2. The culet (CT) is prospectively visible as pin point from the side view in the Fig. 5. The present view provides perspective view of short side (S) where pyramidal arrangement of facet is visible from the side view and pile of the facets which is parallel to the table plane (T). As shown in Fig. 6 central wide facets (Fl, Dl, Bl) are belongs to short side (S) of the diamond (D). These facets are made at range of angles with respect to girdle plane at 50-55°, 40°-45° and 32-37° respectively. The height of each facet is regulated by the length/width ratio where the higher ratio leads to increase the height of the facet. The angles describe in the Table-1 is optimized range for the diamond which has L/W ratio in the range of 1.3 - 1.4. The ladder type arrangement shown in Fig. 5 provides means for multiple means of reflection in the diamond (D). The comparison made against the single facet cut diamond where light loss is apparent due to flat surface of the pavilion while stepped cut in the present invention minimizes the light loss in the pavilion region.
Fig. 7 describes the bottom view of the second preferred embodiment of the present invention. This embodiment provides the slanted stepped cut facets. The core schema of the arrangement remains same as described in the first embodiment. In this embodiment the total height of crown and girdle remains between 5-10 % of the total depth. The marking and blocking of the diamond (D') remains at par with first embodiment diamond (D).
The diamond (D') is first given a shape of rectangular block through cutting rough diamond in parallel sides that provide pair of long and short side in the diamond. With the view to understand the geometry in conclusive way parallel pairs of long and short sides are identified as L, L' and S, S' respectively. The corners of the four sides (numbered as 1-4) are identically cut with view to create emerald shape of the diamond. Once the basic emerald shape of the diamond is achieved, the marking of crown and girdle height will be done in the sarine machine. Fig. 7 describes best perceptive schema of the present invention in preferred embodiment. After marking the diamond as per height of crown and girdle the diamond (D') is ready for cut from the height of the pavilion. The schema of the present invention remains same in the both embodiments where stepped cut diamond is faceted to enhance brilliance in the diamond.
First the stepped facets are made on the long and short sides of the diamond (D'). In the present embodiment primary steps of diamond processing remain same as of first embodiment diamond (D) except angles of facets may differ. The long sides (L-L') and short side (S-S') of diamond (D') have primary, secondary and tertiary facets at the angle of 52-55°, 40°-45° and 25°-30° respectively. The said facets are numbered as F, D, B respectively on long sides (L-L') and Fl, Dl and Bl respectively on short sides (S-S').
Once the tertiary stepped facets are made on the short side (S-S') of the diamond (D'), the culet (CT) is emerged at full extent at the top of pavilion. The angles of facets to be made on pavilion of the diamond (D') are described in Table - 4 for ready reference.
Figure imgf000018_0001
Table - 4 After having abovementioned facets on the pavilion portion total number of facets are 12 and junction of short and long sides of diamond (D') are perpendicular to each other.
The diamond (D') is ready to be facet on the stepped cut diamond. The present embodiment discloses the crossed slanting facet cut on already stepped cut facet. The same is a complex in nature to understand on two dimension diagram. Therefore, to avoid ambiguities first long side L facet crossed slanting is described in Fig. 10 as of basic stepped cut facet as described in the Table - 4. As shown in Fig. 9, for the purpose of convenience edge points are numbered as Κ-Κ', Μ-Μ', Ν-Ν' respectively for primary, secondary and tertiary facets of the long side (L) of diamond (D').
First, slanting cut is made on the primary stepped facet (F) of long side (L) at the K to M' at the angle ranges of 50°-52°. The said facet is numbered as "E". It divides the original stepped facet "F" in half. Next slanted facet on secondary facet (D) made between the edge point M-N' at the angle of 40°-43° from the angle of girdle plane. The said facet is numbered as "C". After having slant facet on secondary facet the last facet is made on tertiary facet (B) from edge point "N" at the angle ranges from 22°-28°. The same type of facets are made on opposite long side (L') and after that short sides (i.e. S-S') to have complete slanting pattern as per this embodiment. The facets made on short side (S-S') are numbered as Al, Bl and CI. Once total slanting facets are made number of facets will be 24.
The angles to have slanted facets on stepped faceted pavilion of the diamond (D) are described in Table - 5. Facet type Angle*
Pavilion facets
A - Al 22-28°
C - Cl 40-43°
E - El 50-52°
Table - 5
As shown in Fig. 11, the crown is made up of thin and single facet. On the other side these characteristic provides wide table surface area compared to other diamonds as described in first embodiment.
The angles of facets to be made on crown are described in Table -6.
Figure imgf000020_0001
Table - 6
Fig. 12 shows side view of the diamond (D') at corner (4), the corner facet is positioned between facets made on short (S') and long side (L) of the diamond (D'). The cross slanting facet "F" on primary stepped facet "E" is shown in perspective view. A, C and E are slanted facets made on long side (L) while Al, CI and El are slanted facet on short side (S') of diamond (D'). At the top of pavilion of the diamond (D') extended culet (CT) is observed. The heights of diamond (D') in terms of crown, pavilion and girdle are described in the following table-7.
Figure imgf000021_0001
Table - 7
Fig. 12 shows side view of diamond (D') at long side (L) between corner 1 & 4. Facets are piled on each other in slanted manner therefore angular arrangement provides zigzag compilation of facets. The difference of angular cut of adjacent facet is in the ranges of 2°-3°. The said arrangement provides enhance brilliance by the way of multiple reflection at minute level as the stepped cut and slanted cut provides multiple means for light reflection and reduces light loss from the pavilion portion. The specific arrangement of the present embodiment provides high surface area in terms of light reflection.
Fig. 13 describes side view of the diamond (D') at short side (S') at the corner 4 & 3. This figure shows culet (CT) in a pointed arrangement from the side view. The angle between primary stepped facets and slanted facets ranges form 9°-14° that may change on the L/W ratio of the diamond. While various embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail, it is apparent that modification and adaptation of those embodiments will occur to those skilled in the art. It is expressly understood, however, that such modifications and adaptations are within the spirit and scope of the present invention as set forth in the following claims.

Claims

We Claim,
1. A stepped cut diamond with high brilliance comprises crown at upper portion, pavilion at bottom portion, girdle discriminating crown and pavilion portions thereof;
wherein girdle, having longitudinally disposed facet and equilateral on parallel sides, with the height in the range 2-4% of total depth of diamond, having at least two long sides (L-L') and an equal number of short sides (S-S') along with break at the junctions of said short and long sides that resemble emerald cut of the diamond;
wherein the crown portion, having single facet at the angle ranges from 25°-32° with respect to girdle, having height in a range 2-5% of total depth of diamond; disposed with flat surface Table (T) on top and disposed with girdle at bottom;
wherein the pavilion portion, having height in a range of 38-55% of total depth of diamond, having at least three stepped facets, disposed as angularly decrement, with respect to girdle, at culet (CT) of the bottom of the diamond; wherein the primary stepped facets (F-Fl) made from girdle towards bottom direction at an angle ranges from 50°-55° with respect to the plane of girdle;
wherein the secondary stepped facets (D-Dl) made from the bottom of primary facets (F-Fl), at an angle ranges from 40°-45° with respect to the plane of girdle; wherein the tertiary stepped facets (B-Bl) made from the bottom of secondary facets (D-Dl) disposed at the culet (CT) in the bottom, at an angle ranges from 25°-37° with respect to the plane of girdle;
2. The stepped cut diamond with high brilliance as claimed in claim 1, wherein, corner facets (F2-D2) are made equilaterally on the junctions of primary stepped pavilion facets (F-Fl) and secondary stepped pavilion facets (D-Dl), at the angle ranges from 50°-52° and 40°-42° respectively with respect to the plane of girdle.
3. The stepped cut diamond with high brilliance as claimed in claim 1, wherein optionally the slanted facets are made on the primary stepped facets
(F-Fl), secondary stepped facets (D-Dl) and tertiary stepped facets (B-Bl).
4. The stepped cut diamond with high brilliance as claimed in claim 3, wherein the slanted facets (E-El) are made on primary stepped facets (F-Fl) that connect bottom of primary (F-Fl) and secondary (D-Dl) stepped pavilion facets in slanted manner at angle ranges from 50°-52° with respect to the plane of girdle, that divides the primary stepped facets (F-Fl) in exact half.
5. The stepped cut diamond with high brilliance as claimed in claim 3, the slanted facets (C-Cl) are made on secondary stepped facets (D-Dl) that connect bottom of secondary (D-Dl) and tertiary facets (B-Bl) in slanted manner at angle ranges from 40°-43° with respect to the plane of girdle.
6. The stepped cut diamond with high brilliance as claimed in claim 1, the slanted facets (A-Al) are made on tertiary stepped pavilion facet (B-Bl) in slanted manner at angle ranges from 22°-28° with respect to the plane of girdle.
7. The stepped cut diamond with high brilliance as claimed in any of claim 1 or 2, wherein the length to width ratio of the diamond is in the range of 1.2-1.4.
Dated this on 24th July, 2017
PCT/IN2018/050382 2017-07-24 2018-06-09 A stepped cut diamond with high brilliance WO2019021301A1 (en)

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
SU1743563A1 (en) * 1989-12-13 1992-06-30 Московское Производственное Объединение "Кристалл" Precious stone
US20160120274A1 (en) * 2014-10-31 2016-05-05 Leon Mege Inc. Step-Cut Gemstone

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
SU1743563A1 (en) * 1989-12-13 1992-06-30 Московское Производственное Объединение "Кристалл" Precious stone
US20160120274A1 (en) * 2014-10-31 2016-05-05 Leon Mege Inc. Step-Cut Gemstone

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