WO2019002494A1 - Use of a washing composition comprising surfactants and cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in combination with a composition comprising anionic beneficial agents - Google Patents

Use of a washing composition comprising surfactants and cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in combination with a composition comprising anionic beneficial agents Download PDF

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WO2019002494A1
WO2019002494A1 PCT/EP2018/067471 EP2018067471W WO2019002494A1 WO 2019002494 A1 WO2019002494 A1 WO 2019002494A1 EP 2018067471 W EP2018067471 W EP 2018067471W WO 2019002494 A1 WO2019002494 A1 WO 2019002494A1
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alkyl
group
acid
chosen
hydrogen atom
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PCT/EP2018/067471
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French (fr)
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Estelle Mathonneau
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596Mixtures of surface active compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884Sequential application

Definitions

  • washing composition comprising surfactants and cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in combination with a composition comprising anionic beneficial agents
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which consists in sequentially applying a cosmetic washing composition A comprising at least two different anionic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, and one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, and a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.
  • a cosmetic washing composition A comprising at least two different anionic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, and one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers
  • a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.
  • the standard dyes that are used are, in particular, dyes of the nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane type, or natural dyes.
  • These dyes may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric. These dyes are coloured or colouring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibres. These compositions containing one or more direct dyes are applied to keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out. The colourings that result therefrom are particularly chromatic colourings but are, however, only temporary or semi-permanent since the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fibre and their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fibre are responsible for their weak dyeing power and their poor fastness with respect to light, washing or perspiration.
  • Acidic dyes are advantageous for colouring the hair since they are generally inexpensive. Furthermore, at the concentrations generally used, they are sparingly or non-sensitizing. However, these dyes stain the scalp considerably. They are consequently used in low concentrations, which does not always make it possible to achieve good coverage of grey hair. Progress therefore remains to be made in this field, especially using acidic dyes, in order to afford rapid, powerful, resistant dyeing results that respect the nature of the hair and that do not lead to colouring of the scalp.
  • compositions based on sunscreens are also desirable to protect the hair against light to maintain its cosmetic properties and to respect its colour, whether it be natural or artificial colour.
  • This protection is generally performed by means of compositions based on sunscreens.
  • these compositions cannot be rinsed out without totally losing their efficacy, when anionic sunscreens are used, or else they give the hair a very greasy feel, in the case of nonionic screening agents.
  • hair compositions that are intended especially to colour, condition or protect the hair using anionic beneficial agents are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and can still be improved, especially as regards the deposition of these anionic agents onto keratin fibres, both in terms of amount and persistence, in particular persistence on washing.
  • the aim of the present invention is to propose a use and a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which make it possible to improve the performance qualities of a composition comprising at least one anionic beneficial agent (referred to hereinbelow as composition B) by means of a combined effect between composition B and the washing composition A applied before or after this composition B, especially before.
  • a composition comprising at least one anionic beneficial agent (referred to hereinbelow as composition B) by means of a combined effect between composition B and the washing composition A applied before or after this composition B, especially before.
  • performance qualities especially means:
  • the cosmetic for instance the smoothness, suppleness or disentangling
  • dyeing or protective for instance protection against UV
  • One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
  • a cosmetic washing composition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and
  • a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.
  • the cosmetic washing composition A according to the process of the invention comprises (v) one or more cationic polymers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
  • a cosmetic washing composition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and
  • a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of a cosmetic washing composition A, comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) and one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers,
  • composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents, as defined below,
  • the cosmetic washing composition A according to the use of the invention comprises (v) one or more cationic polymers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
  • Implementation of the invention makes it possible especially to obtain the desired properties immediately on application, and in particular suppleness, smoothness, volume and a non-charged, natural feel, colouring and/or UV protection while at the same time keeping the hairs light and individualized; this process most particularly gives the hair improved capacity for disentangling.
  • the dyeing performance qualities are improved relative to the usual results; this may be reflected by a shorter leave-on time and/or a lower concentration of anionic dye in the composition to achieve the desired level of dyeing. It has also been observed that these desired properties, obtained on implementing the invention, are especially persistent on shampoo washing.
  • a washing composition A according to the invention can improve the persistence of the conditioning (or of the conditioning properties) and/or of the colouring and/or protection afforded by composition B applied beforehand; the conditioning properties may especially be persistent on shampoo washing at least three times, in particular on shampoo washing at least four times, and better still at least five times, or even at least six times.
  • the particularly persistent conditioning properties are especially the suppleness of the hair, and/or its smooth feel (smoothness) and/or its ease of disentangling.
  • washing composition A according to the invention has a sparingly aggressive nature, since the application of the composition to the hair fibre in the long run causes little damage associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or at the surface of said fibre.
  • the washing composition A according to the invention allows good deposition, or even good penetration, of the anionic beneficial agents on/in keratin fibres and thus makes it possible to obtain improved conditioning action.
  • the time which separates the application of the washing composition A from the application of composition B according to the invention depends on the consumer's need to wash his hair and/or the frequency at which he performs shampoo washes.
  • this time may range from a few minutes (the application of the washing composition A is immediately followed by the application of composition B) to a few days; this time may especially range from 30 seconds to 7 days, for example from 1 minute to 4 days, better still from 2 minutes to 3 days, or even from 5 minutes to 48 hours, and better still from 10 minutes to 24 hours.
  • composition B is applied immediately after the washing composition A, especially between 2 and 15 minutes after the washing composition A.
  • composition B denotes the composition comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents; it may afford haircare, especially conditioning, and/or colour and/or UV protection; it is a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, and not at all a pharmaceutical or therapeutic composition.
  • the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for said expression; the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be substituted for said expression, and implies that the limits are included.
  • the washing composition A comprises at least one anionic surfactant of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid type (i) and at least one anionic surfactant (ii) other than the anionic surfactant(s) (i).
  • the washing composition A comprises at least two different anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • a species is termed "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the washing composition A and/or B of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the washing composition A of the invention contains at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1): R ⁇ OC ⁇ J— OCH 2 COOA ( )
  • Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C 8 - C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;
  • Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-Cis alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
  • - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium group, a sodium atom, a potassium atom, a lithium atom, a magnesium atom, a calcium atom or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds bearing different groups Ri .
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
  • Ri denotes a C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom
  • - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
  • Ri denotes a C12 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 - C24)alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the washing composition A preferably comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) and/or salts thereof in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A according to the invention comprises at least one additional anionic surfactant other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof (i) described above.
  • the additional anionic surfactants (ii) used in the washing composition A according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably sulfate groups.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated.
  • the total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 10.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function.
  • acylglycinates can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfo succinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • acylglutamates in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinates;
  • acyllactylates in particular of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function.
  • alkylsulfo nates alkylsulfo nates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefm sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfo laurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function.
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; where the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;
  • these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkyl sulfates especially C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates
  • alkyl ether sulfates especially C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
  • alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium or calcium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants (ii) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
  • alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; more preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from Cs-Ci4 and more particularly C 12 -C 14 alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and most particularly lauryl (ether) sulfates.
  • anionic surfactants (ii) use is preferably made of one or more sulfate-based anionic surfactants.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are in the form of salts, and in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts.
  • These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.
  • anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are chosen from sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, as sold under the name Texapon N702 by the company Cognis.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5% to 18% by weight and better still from 4% to 16% by weight, even better still from 4.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the total content of anionic surfactants (i) and (ii) in the washing composition A according to the invention is between 3% and 35%) by weight, preferably between 6%> and 25% by weight, and preferentially between 10% and 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably in a total content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the nonionic surfactants may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups;
  • polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;
  • amine oxides such as (C 10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C 10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpho line oxides;
  • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • P 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4;
  • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
  • alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula (2) described above in which:
  • - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • - P 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0;
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C 4 o, especially C8-C20 and better still Cio-Cis, alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12); and
  • nonionic surfactant(s) are preferentially chosen from the alkyl(poly)glycosides of formula (2) as defined above, and most particularly from (C 6 - C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and even more particularly (C 8 -C 18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • the washing composition A comprises at least two nonionic surfactants preferably chosen from oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20 and better still Cio-Cis alkyl chain, comprising from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C 8 -C 18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • nonionic surfactants preferably chosen from oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20 and better still Cio-Cis alkyl chain, comprising from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C 8 -C 18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition
  • a according to the invention in a total content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1.5% to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 1.75% to 10% and better still from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, preferably present in a total content of greater than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are non-silicone surfactants. They may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • Ra represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydro lysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M + and X " are absent;
  • - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'
  • - X represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
  • - Y* represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH 2 -CH(OH)S0 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(OH)S0 3 -Z';
  • - Z' represents a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
  • Ra' represents a Cio to C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydro lysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
  • - Y represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH 2 -CH(OH)S0 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(OH)S0 3 -Z";
  • Rd and R e represent, independently of each other, a Ci to C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • - Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • Ra" represents a Cio to C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
  • n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric surfactant(s) (iv) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C 2 o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C 2 o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C 3 - C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and also the compounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) as defined previously.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C 3 - C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetame, and the compounds of formula (5) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.
  • the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • Cationic polymers are present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A may comprise one or more cationic polymers preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, or even greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, in particular ranging from 3 to 20 meq/g, especially from 4 to 20 meq/g, or better still from 5 to 20 meq/g.
  • meq/g milliequivalents/gram
  • the cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
  • cationic polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x 10 6 approximately.
  • - P 3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a C3 ⁇ 4 radical
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • P 4 - P 4, P 5 and Re which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from co monomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcapro lactam, and vinyl esters.
  • Ciba Geigy the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
  • - polymers preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefmically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chlor
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydro xyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride).
  • a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example, a chloride.
  • Such products are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar CI 62 by the company Rhodia.
  • polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
  • polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamide
  • polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino hydroxy alky ldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 the company Sandoz.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/ epoxypropyl/ diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XXXI) or (XXXII): (CH 2 )k (CH 2 )k
  • - Ri2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • - Rio and Rn independently of each other, denote a Ci-C 6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • Ri3, Ri4, Ri5 and Ri 6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,
  • R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
  • Ai , R13 and Ri 5 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • Bi may also denote a group (CH2)n2-CO-D-OC-(CH2) P - with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2- Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • polyamines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
  • these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B).
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average molecular mass of said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non- limiting way, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2),
  • cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts; polymers constituted of repeating units corresponding to formula (XXXIV) above, in particular the compound hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomen
  • the total content of cationic polymer(s) in the washing composition A according to the invention may range from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A may comprise one or more amphoteric polymers.
  • amphoteric polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and also anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • amphoteric polymers may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:
  • the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer are units of structure (la) below: in which Ri denotes H or CH 3 and R 2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert- butylamino, dodecylamino and -NH-CH 2 OH radical.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (la).
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R 2 is an amino radical (NH 2 ) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type are units of structure (Ila) below:
  • R 4 denotes a group (CH 2 )k, with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
  • Re and R7 which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ila).
  • the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5, Re and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y " denotes a chloride anion.
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type are units of formula (Ilia):
  • the preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
  • the acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide- type monomer.
  • (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
  • the content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
  • amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
  • Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid- type monomer as described above.
  • said amphoteric polymers are constituted solely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
  • amphoteric polymers examples include acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.
  • amphoteric polymer As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by Nalco.
  • the cosmetic washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, and copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) may generally be present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
  • the washing composition A according to the invention comprises:
  • anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably of formula (1) as defined above;
  • anionic surfactants chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide; (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C 12 - Ci8)acylisethio nates; alpha-olefm sulfonates;
  • nonionic surfactants in a total content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A, chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • ⁇ saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C 4 o, especially Cs to C20 and better still C10 to Ci8 alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide; and
  • amphoteric surfactants in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A, comprising one or more surfactants chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C 8 - C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-
  • one or more cationic polymers preferably with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 3 meq/g, preferentially chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium halide homopolymers or copolymers; and/or preferably
  • amphoteric polymers preferably constituted solely of units derived from monomers (i) of acrylamide type, (ii) of acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
  • the washing compositions A in accordance with the invention may be used as shampoos for washing and/or conditioning the hair; they are preferably applied in this case to wet hair in amounts that are effective for washing it; the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands may then be removed, after an optional leave- on time, by rinsing with water, the operation possibly being repeated one or more times.
  • the term “beneficial agent” means a cosmetic treatment agent that is capable of giving keratin fibres a cosmetic property, especially of protecting them, colouring them, enhancing their beauty, conditioning them, treating them and/or holding them in shape.
  • anionic beneficial agent means a beneficial agent comprising one or more anionic groups.
  • anionic group means a group bearing an acid function in neutralized or non-neutralized form.
  • anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: -CO2H, -CO2 " , -SO3H, -SO3 " , -OSO3H, -OSO3-, -H2PO3, -HPO3-, -PO3 2" , -H2PO2, -HPO2 " , -PO2 2” , -POH and -PO ⁇
  • composition B may be chosen especially from:
  • anionic sunscreens (i) anionic sunscreens; (ii) anionic polymers and/or amphoteric polymers;
  • anionic surfactants comprising a carbon-based chain containing at least 14 carbon atoms
  • the anionic beneficial agents are chosen from anionic sunscreens and anionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the beneficial agent(s) are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
  • composition may thus comprise, as anionic sunscreen(s), sunscreens chosen from UV-A and/or UV-B organic screening agents as described below.
  • a first example is benzene- l,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A- 2639347.
  • F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(Ri) 3 + in which the radicals Ri, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn + /n, Mn + denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn + preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Ba 2+ , Al 3+ and Zr 4+ .
  • - Z represents an organic residue of valency (1 + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a totally conjugated assembly;
  • - X* denotes S, 0 or NR 6 ;
  • R 1 denotes hydrogen, Ci-Cis alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy, a C5-C15 aryl, a C2-C18 acyloxy,
  • radicals R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R 1 ;
  • R 6 denotes hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl
  • - Y denotes hydrogen, Li, Na, K, NH 4 , l/2Ca, l/2Mg, 1/3A1 or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organic nitrogenous base;
  • - m is 0 or 1 ;
  • - n is a number from 2 to 6;
  • - 1 is a number from 1 to 4;
  • an olefin linear aliphatic C2-C6 hydrocarbon-based radical which may be interrupted with a C5-C12 aryl group or a C4-C10 heteroaryl, in particular chosen from the following groups:
  • R 6 has the same meaning as that indicated above; said radicals Z as defined in paragraphs (al), (bl) and (cl) possibly being substituted with Ci-C 6 alkyl, Ci-C 6 alkoxy, phenoxy, hydroxyl, methylenedioxy or amino radicals optionally substituted with one or two C1-C5 alkyl radicals.
  • the compounds of formula (XVI) comprise, per molecule, 1, 3 or 4 groups SO3Y.
  • organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of benzophenone compounds comprising at least one sulfonic acid function, for instance the following compounds:
  • Benzophenone-4 sold by the company BASF under the name Uvinul MS40®:
  • Benzophenone-9 sold by the company BASF under the name Uvinul DS49® :
  • organic UVA-screening agents use will more particularly be made of benzene- l,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) produced by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SX®.
  • organic UVB-screening agents are especially chosen from:
  • hydrophilic cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4- hydroxycinnamic acid
  • hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agents examples include those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
  • para-aminobenzoic compounds • PABA,
  • TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise
  • benzylidenecamphor compounds
  • Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex; phenylbenzimidazole compounds:
  • Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
  • the anionic sunscreens that may be used in composition B according to the present invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from sulfonic screening agents, preferably from benzene- l,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof; sulfonic benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-4; sulfonic benzylidenecamphor derivatives, such as benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid and salts thereof, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
  • sulfonic screening agents preferably from benzene- l,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof
  • sulfonic benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-4
  • the anionic sunscreen(s) may generally be present in the composition B according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
  • Anionic polymers may generally be present in the composition B according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
  • Composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic polymers as beneficial agent(s).
  • the anionic polymers generally used in the present invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid, and having a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 000 000.
  • the carboxylic groups may be provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to the formula: in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighbouring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, and R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a -CH 2 -COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
  • unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula: in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighbouring m
  • an alkyl group preferably comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular denotes methyl and ethyl groups.
  • anionic polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are:
  • Polymers also falling within this category are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an ⁇ -olefm, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • these polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the Applicant.
  • the polymers comprising sulfonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
  • These polymers may be chosen especially from:
  • polyvinylsulfonic acid salts having a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100 000, and also copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer, such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
  • polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631 and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer® HSP 1180 by Henkel.
  • the anionic polymers are chosen from (meth)acrylic polymers and sulfonic polymers, such as those of families A), B) and F), better still from (meth)acrylic polymers.
  • the anionic polymers are even more particularly chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name Ultrahold Strong® by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX by the company BASF, and from copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold especially under the name Resyn 28-29-30 by the company AkzoNobel.
  • acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid
  • anionic polymers are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold, for example, under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma; copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold, for example, under the name Luvimer® MAEX by the company BASF.
  • anionic latices or pseudolatices i.e. aqueous dispersions of insoluble polymer particles.
  • the polymer(s) bearing anionic group(s) that may be used as beneficial agent(s) are one or more anionic polymers such as those described above, such as (meth)acrylic polymer(s), and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic polymer(s) may generally be present in the composition B according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2%> and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
  • amphoteric polymers as anionic beneficial agents.
  • amphoteric polymers may be chosen from the amphoteric polymers that may be used in the cosmetic washing composition A described previously.
  • the definitions, preferences and features of the amphoteric polymers present in said cosmetic composition B are identical to those described above for the cosmetic washing composition A.
  • amphoteric polymers examples include acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.
  • amphoteric polymer As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by Nalco.
  • copolymers whose INCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV71 or Balance® 47 by AkzoNobel.
  • composition B comprises one or more amphoteric polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers, and octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) may generally be present in the composition B according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2%> and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
  • Anionic direct dyes are particularly useful in the composition B according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2%> and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
  • Composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic direct dyes as beneficial agent(s).
  • the anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as “acid direct dyes” owing to their affinity for alkaline substances.
  • the term "anionic direct dye” means any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
  • the anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
  • the anionic direct dye(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic direct dyes of formulae (II), ( ⁇ ), (III), ( ⁇ ), (IV), (IV), (V), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII) and (IX) below:
  • R7, R8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'io which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • X, X' and X which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
  • R"-S(0) 2 - with R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;
  • aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + and iv) alkoxy with M + as defined previously;
  • cycloalkyl especially cyclohexyl
  • Ar-N N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl,
  • ⁇ W represents a sigma bond ⁇ , an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
  • formulae (II) and (IF) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 , M + or one carboxylate radical -(0)CO ⁇ , M + on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
  • dyes of formula (II) mention may be made of: Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food
  • dyes of formula (IF) mention may be made of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38;
  • Rii, Ri2 and Rn which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(0) 2 S(0 ⁇ ), M + with M + as defined previously;
  • ⁇ Ri4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0 " , M + with M + as defined previously;
  • ⁇ Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom
  • Ri6 represents an oxo group, in which case R'i 6 is absent, or alternatively R15 with Ri6 together form a double bond;
  • Ri7 and Ris which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • Ar-0-S(0) 2 - with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group, preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
  • ⁇ Ri9 and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D', which is optionally substituted;
  • R' i6, R' i9 and R'20 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy 1 group;
  • ⁇ R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group
  • Ra and Rb which may be identical or different, are as defined previously, preferentially Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
  • ⁇ Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group
  • represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
  • formulae (III) and ( ⁇ ) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 " , M + on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
  • dyes of formula (III) mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (III'), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17;
  • R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • ⁇ Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR 2 sR 2 9 with R 2 8 and R 2 9, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: alkyl;
  • polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl
  • aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (0) 2 S(0 , M + with M + as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group; cycloalkyl, especially cyclohexyl;
  • ⁇ Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR' 2 sR' 2 9 with R' 2 s and R' 2 9, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R 2 8 and R 2 9 as defined previously;
  • formulae (IV) and (IV) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 " , M + ; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
  • dyes of formula (IV) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2;
  • R30, R31 and R32 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
  • heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino
  • R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom
  • Rc and Rd which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a group -NH-;
  • ALK represents a linear or branched divalent Ci-C 6 alkylene group; in particular, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
  • n 1 or 2;
  • p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusively
  • q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusively
  • u is 0 or 1 ;
  • J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro
  • J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0) m - with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially, J represents a radical -SO2-; M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; ⁇ ( X , which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group
  • formulae (V) and (V) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 " , M + ; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
  • dyes of formula (V) mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (V), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1, the sodium salt of2,4-dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino- 5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4'-N,N-(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'- nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid, 4- -hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI):
  • R33, R34, R35 and R36 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (0) m S(0 ⁇ )-, M + with M + and m as defined previously;
  • R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • X, X' and X" which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
  • R 4 i with R 42 or R 42 with R 43 or R 43 with R 44 together form a fused benzo group: ⁇ ; with ⁇ optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + ; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)- and ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; with M + , R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously;
  • R 37 to R 4 o represent a hydrogen atom
  • R 4 i to R 44 which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M +
  • R 43 with R 44 together form a benzo group it is preferentially substituted with a group (0) 2 S(0 ;
  • At least one of the rings G, H, I or ⁇ comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )- or a carboxylate radical -C(0)0 " ; preferentially sulfonate;
  • dyes of formula (VI) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50;
  • R45, R46, R47 and R48 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
  • R49, R50, R51 and R 52 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
  • alkyl alkoxy, alkylthio;
  • R53, R54, R55 and R represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
  • G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ L represents an alkoxide O " , M + ; a thioalkoxide S “ , M + or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group and M + as defined previously; M + is particularly sodium or potassium;
  • ⁇ L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N + RfR g , with Rf and R g , which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or optionally substituted aryl; L' represents more particularly an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (0) m S(0 ⁇ )-, M + groups with m and M + as defined previously;
  • ⁇ Q and Q' which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ M + is as defined previously; as examples of dyes of formula (VII), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;
  • R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R50 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ Ri and Rh which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • formula (VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 " , M + ; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
  • dyes of formula (VIII) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74. h) the quino line-based dyes o
  • ⁇ Rei represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R52, R53, and R54 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • R51 with R52, or 51 with R54 together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, M + with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • formula (IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, preferentially sodium sulfonate.
  • dyes of formula (IX) mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
  • the cosmetic composition B comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:
  • the anionic dyes that are most particularly preferred are the dyes designated in the Colour Index under the code C.I. 58005 (monosodium salt of 1 ,2-dihydroxy- 9,10-anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid), C.I. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10- dihydro-4-hydroxy-9, 10-dioxo- 1 -anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid), C.I. 15510 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-l-naphthalenyl)azo]benzenesulfonic acid), C.I.
  • the anionic direct dye(s) represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of composition B, and preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight approximately. More particularly, the anionic dye(s) represent from 0.01% to 5%> by weight.
  • the anionic surfactants comprising a carbon-based chain containing at least
  • 14 carbon atoms may especially comprise in their structure one or more sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylate groups; they may be oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, the total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups possibly ranging from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 10.
  • EO ethylene oxide
  • PO propylene oxide
  • Said anionic beneficial agent(s) used in composition B according to the invention may represent in total from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
  • Composition B according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants such as cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; one or more C12-C30 fatty alcohols; one or more C12-C32 fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; one or more silicones.
  • cationic surfactants such as cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammoni
  • the washing composition A and/or composition B according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n- butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
  • C1-C4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n- butanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols
  • the washing composition A and composition B according to the invention independently of each other, have a total water content of between 20% and 95% by weight, preferably between 30%> and 90%>, preferentially between 40%> and 85%o by weight and better still between 50%> and 80%> by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the washing composition A and of composition B according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferentially from 3.5 to 6 and even better still from 4 to 5.5.
  • the pH of these compositions may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are usually used.
  • basifying agents examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides.
  • acidifying agents for example, are mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • the washing composition A and/or composition B according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators other than the cationic or amphoteric polymers described previously; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; C12-C32 fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, plant or synthetic oils; silicones; vitamins or provitamins; nonionic polymers; pH stabilizers, preserving agents; dyes other than the anionic direct dyes described previously; fragrances; agents for preventing hair loss, anti-seborrhoeic agents, antidandruff agents.
  • additives such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators other than the cationic or amphoteric polymers described previously; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; C12-C32 fatty esters such as isopropyl
  • additives are generally present in the washing composition(s) A and/or in the composition(s) B according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition(s) A and/or the composition(s) B.
  • One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
  • a cosmetic washing composition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and
  • a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.
  • the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention thus comprises at least one step that consists in applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic washing composition A as defined above.
  • This or these steps may optionally be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example a leave-on time of 1 to 15 minutes and especially 2 to 5 minutes; they may also be followed by an optional rinsing step, for example with water; and/or a drying step.
  • said application step(s) are followed by rinsing, optionally followed by drying.
  • said application steps are followed solely by rinsing, i.e. without a drying step.
  • the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention thus also comprises at least one step that consists in applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition B as defined above.
  • This or these steps may optionally be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example, a leave-on time of 1 to 30 minutes and especially 2 to 20 minutes; they may also be followed by an optional rinsing step, for example with water; and/or a drying step.
  • said application step(s) are followed by rinsing, optionally followed by drying.
  • the application step(s) may also be followed by a step of heat treatment of the fibres using a heating tool, for example with the aid of a straightening or curling iron, for example from 40 to 250°C, preferably 40-100°C or even 40-80°C, for example with a hairdryer, a hood, or even a hood of Climazon type.
  • a heating tool for example with the aid of a straightening or curling iron, for example from 40 to 250°C, preferably 40-100°C or even 40-80°C, for example with a hairdryer, a hood, or even a hood of Climazon type.
  • the step(s) of applying the washing composition A and the step(s) of applying composition B are performed successively, or sequentially, which means that the step(s) of applying the washing composition A precede the step(s) of applying composition B; intermediate steps, for example of leaving on and/or of rinsing and/or drying, possibly being present between these two application steps.
  • the step(s) of applying the washing composition A precede the step(s) of applying composition B.
  • the process comprises at least the following steps:
  • composition B according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing and drying.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
  • a cosmetic washing composition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and - at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes.
  • a cosmetic washing composition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more
  • the process for dyeing keratin fibres comprises:
  • fibres cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes as defined previously, optionally followed by a leave-on time and/or rinsing and/or drying.
  • the leave-on time of the washing composition A on the keratin fibres may be between 1 and 15 minutes and preferably between 2 and 5 minutes.
  • the leave-on time of composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes on the keratin fibres may be between 1 and 30 minutes and preferably between 2 and 20 minutes.
  • the washing composition A and/or composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes is generally rinsed with water.
  • An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.
  • a cosmetic washing composition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) and one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers, in combination with a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents, as defined previously, for obtaining persistent conditioning of said keratin fibres, especially in terms of suppleness, a smooth feel, disentangling, colouring and/or protection, which is persistent especially for at least three shampoo washes.
  • a cosmetic washing composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents, as defined previously, for
  • washing compositions Al to A8 below were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (as g of active material).
  • the dye compositions (B, C1-C4, D1-D2 and E) were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (as g of active material):
  • fragrance qs Preserving agents, fragrance qs
  • a washing composition Al to A8 is applied, followed by rinsing, and a colouring care composition B, C1-C4, D1-D2 or E is then applied on a natural 100% grey locks; the composition is left on for 2 to 5 minutes and then rinsed out with water and the hair is dried with a hairdryer.

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Abstract

Use of a washing composition comprising surfactants and cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in combination with a composition comprising anionic beneficial agents The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which consists in sequentially applying a cosmetic washing composition A comprising at least two different anionic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, and one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, and a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.

Description

Use of a washing composition comprising surfactants and cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in combination with a composition comprising anionic beneficial agents
The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which consists in sequentially applying a cosmetic washing composition A comprising at least two different anionic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, and one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, and a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.
It is known practice to dye keratin fibres and in particular human hair with dye compositions containing direct dyes. The standard dyes that are used are, in particular, dyes of the nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane type, or natural dyes.
These dyes may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric. These dyes are coloured or colouring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibres. These compositions containing one or more direct dyes are applied to keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out. The colourings that result therefrom are particularly chromatic colourings but are, however, only temporary or semi-permanent since the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fibre and their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fibre are responsible for their weak dyeing power and their poor fastness with respect to light, washing or perspiration.
Moreover, the use of acidic dyes generally entails colouring of the scalp, which is undesirable.
In addition, in order to achieve the desired level of colouring, it is often necessary to have a relatively long leave-on time (generally more than 10-15 minutes).
Acidic dyes are advantageous for colouring the hair since they are generally inexpensive. Furthermore, at the concentrations generally used, they are sparingly or non-sensitizing. However, these dyes stain the scalp considerably. They are consequently used in low concentrations, which does not always make it possible to achieve good coverage of grey hair. Progress therefore remains to be made in this field, especially using acidic dyes, in order to afford rapid, powerful, resistant dyeing results that respect the nature of the hair and that do not lead to colouring of the scalp.
It is also desirable to protect the hair against light to maintain its cosmetic properties and to respect its colour, whether it be natural or artificial colour. This protection is generally performed by means of compositions based on sunscreens. However, these compositions cannot be rinsed out without totally losing their efficacy, when anionic sunscreens are used, or else they give the hair a very greasy feel, in the case of nonionic screening agents.
However, hair compositions that are intended especially to colour, condition or protect the hair using anionic beneficial agents are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and can still be improved, especially as regards the deposition of these anionic agents onto keratin fibres, both in terms of amount and persistence, in particular persistence on washing.
There is thus a real need to develop a process that is capable of improving the cosmetic performance qualities of hair compositions, especially by giving keratin fibres increased cosmetic properties, and doing so in a persistent manner.
The aim of the present invention is to propose a use and a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which make it possible to improve the performance qualities of a composition comprising at least one anionic beneficial agent (referred to hereinbelow as composition B) by means of a combined effect between composition B and the washing composition A applied before or after this composition B, especially before.
The term "performance qualities" especially means:
- the cosmetic (for instance the smoothness, suppleness or disentangling), dyeing or protective (for instance protection against UV) performance qualities, when applying care composition, and
- the long-lasting dyeing or protective cosmetic performance qualities during subsequent shampoo washes.
One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic washing composition A, comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and
- at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.
Preferably, the cosmetic washing composition A according to the process of the invention comprises (v) one or more cationic polymers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
A subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic washing composition A, comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and
- at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes.
A subject of the present invention is also the use of a cosmetic washing composition A, comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) and one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers,
in combination with a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents, as defined below,
for obtaining persistent conditioning of said keratin fibres, especially in terms of suppleness, a smooth feel, disentangling, colouring and/or protection, which is persistent especially for at least three shampoo washes.
Preferably, the cosmetic washing composition A according to the use of the invention comprises (v) one or more cationic polymers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
Implementation of the invention makes it possible especially to obtain the desired properties immediately on application, and in particular suppleness, smoothness, volume and a non-charged, natural feel, colouring and/or UV protection while at the same time keeping the hairs light and individualized; this process most particularly gives the hair improved capacity for disentangling. In the case of colouring with anionic direct dyes, the dyeing performance qualities are improved relative to the usual results; this may be reflected by a shorter leave-on time and/or a lower concentration of anionic dye in the composition to achieve the desired level of dyeing. It has also been observed that these desired properties, obtained on implementing the invention, are especially persistent on shampoo washing.
Specifically, it has been found that the use of a washing composition A according to the invention can improve the persistence of the conditioning (or of the conditioning properties) and/or of the colouring and/or protection afforded by composition B applied beforehand; the conditioning properties may especially be persistent on shampoo washing at least three times, in particular on shampoo washing at least four times, and better still at least five times, or even at least six times.
The particularly persistent conditioning properties are especially the suppleness of the hair, and/or its smooth feel (smoothness) and/or its ease of disentangling.
Moreover, it has also been found that the use of a washing composition A according to the invention has a sparingly aggressive nature, since the application of the composition to the hair fibre in the long run causes little damage associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or at the surface of said fibre. In addition, the washing composition A according to the invention allows good deposition, or even good penetration, of the anionic beneficial agents on/in keratin fibres and thus makes it possible to obtain improved conditioning action.
The time which separates the application of the washing composition A from the application of composition B according to the invention depends on the consumer's need to wash his hair and/or the frequency at which he performs shampoo washes.
There are no particular constraints regarding this time, which may range from a few minutes (the application of the washing composition A is immediately followed by the application of composition B) to a few days; this time may especially range from 30 seconds to 7 days, for example from 1 minute to 4 days, better still from 2 minutes to 3 days, or even from 5 minutes to 48 hours, and better still from 10 minutes to 24 hours.
Preferably, composition B is applied immediately after the washing composition A, especially between 2 and 15 minutes after the washing composition A.
In the present description, the term "composition B" denotes the composition comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents; it may afford haircare, especially conditioning, and/or colour and/or UV protection; it is a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, and not at all a pharmaceutical or therapeutic composition.
In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for said expression; the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be substituted for said expression, and implies that the limits are included.
Washing composition A:
Anionic surfactants
As indicated above, the washing composition A according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid type (i) and at least one anionic surfactant (ii) other than the anionic surfactant(s) (i).
Thus, for the purposes of the invention, the washing composition A comprises at least two different anionic surfactants.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the washing composition A and/or B of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge. Polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids (Ί)
The washing composition A of the invention contains at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups. The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1): R^OC^J— OCH2COOA ( )
in which:
- Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8- C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;
preferably, Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-Cis alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium group, a sodium atom, a potassium atom, a lithium atom, a magnesium atom, a calcium atom or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds bearing different groups Ri .
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
- Ri denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom, and
- n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferentially, use is made of the compounds of formula (1) in which Ri denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; polyoxyalkylenated (C6- C24)alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by the company KAO under the names:
Akypo® NP 70 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H),
Akypo® NP 40 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H),
Akypo® OP 40 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H),
Akypo® OP 80 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H),
Akypo® OP 190 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H),
Akypo® RLM 38 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4, A = H),
Akypo® RLM 38 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4, A = Na),
Akypo® RLM 45 CA (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 45 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na),
Akypo® RLM 100 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 10, A = H),
Akypo® RLM 100 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 10, A = Na),
Akypo® RLM 130 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 13, A = H),
Akypo® RLM 160 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 16, A = Na),
or by the company Sandoz under the names:
Sandopan DTC-Acid (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = H),
Sandopan DTC (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = Na),
Sandopan LS 24 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 12, A = Na),
Sandopan JA 36 (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 18, A = H),
and more particularly the products sold under the following names:
Akypo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid),
Akypo® RLM 100,
Akypo® RLM 38.
The washing composition A according to the invention preferably comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) and/or salts thereof in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight and preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
Additional anionic surfactants (ii)
As indicated above, the washing composition A according to the invention comprises at least one additional anionic surfactant other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof (i) described above.
Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants (ii) used in the washing composition A according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably sulfate groups.
The anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 10.
The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function.
They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfo succinates, and salts thereof.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- acylglutamates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinates;
- acyllactylates, in particular of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C6 -C24 and especially C12 -C20 acylglycinates,
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function.
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfo nates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefm sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfo laurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates; especially lauryl sulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;
- alpha-olefm sulfonates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function.
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; where the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium or calcium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactants (ii) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinates and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfo succinates; especially lauryl sulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethio nates;
C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12 -C20 acylglycinates;
- alpha-olefin sulfonates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; more preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from Cs-Ci4 and more particularly C12-C14 alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and most particularly lauryl (ether) sulfates.
Among the anionic surfactants (ii), use is preferably made of one or more sulfate-based anionic surfactants.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are in the form of salts, and in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts. These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.
Among these salts, sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C12-
Ci4)alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, are more preferably used.
Better still, the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are chosen from sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, as sold under the name Texapon N702 by the company Cognis.
The anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5% to 18% by weight and better still from 4% to 16% by weight, even better still from 4.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
According to a particular embodiment, the total content of anionic surfactants (i) and (ii) in the washing composition A according to the invention is between 3% and 35%) by weight, preferably between 6%> and 25% by weight, and preferentially between 10% and 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
Nonionic surfactants (iii)
As indicated above, the washing composition A comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably in a total content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
The nonionic surfactants may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs to C4o alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups;
- ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide;
- fatty acid esters of saccharose;
- polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;
- N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpho line oxides;
- nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the general formula (2) below:
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which:
Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
P 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4;
v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula (2) described above in which:
- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- P 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0;
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 Alkyl(poly)glucosides 1 ,4, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 1 10 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or else the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AGIO LK.
Preferably, use is made of C8/C16-alkyl (poly)glycosides 1 ,4, in particular as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C4o, especially C8-C20 and better still Cio-Cis, alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12); and
(C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides;
better still, the nonionic surfactant(s) are preferentially chosen from the alkyl(poly)glycosides of formula (2) as defined above, and most particularly from (C6- C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and even more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the washing composition A comprises at least two nonionic surfactants preferably chosen from oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20 and better still Cio-Cis alkyl chain, comprising from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition
A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1.5% to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 1.75% to 10% and better still from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
Amphoteric surfactants (iv)
As indicated above, the washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, preferably present in a total content of greater than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are non-silicone surfactants. They may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8- C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8- C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines. Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective formulae (3) and (4) below:
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X" (3) in which:
- Ra represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydro lysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
- X" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+ and X" are absent;
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)
in which:
- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';
- B' represents the group
Figure imgf000016_0001
with z = 1 or 2;
- X represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y* represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2-CH(OH)S03H or the group CH2CH(OH)S03-Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
- Ra' represents a Cio to C3o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydro lysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (5):
Ra»- HCH(Y")-(CH2)nCO H(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (5) in which:
- Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(OH)S03H or the group CH2CH(OH)S03-Z";
- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra" represents a Cio to C3o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (5), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) (iv) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and also the compounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) as defined previously.
Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetame, and the compounds of formula (5) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A. Cationic polymers
Preferably, the washing composition A may comprise one or more cationic polymers preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, or even greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, in particular ranging from 3 to 20 meq/g, especially from 4 to 20 meq/g, or better still from 5 to 20 meq/g.
The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x 106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3x 106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more preferentially of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
Figure imgf000019_0001
in which:
- P 3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a C¾ radical;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- P 4, P 5 and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from co monomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcapro lactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company
Ciba Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573;
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the copolymers sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;
quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
- polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefmically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
(2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydro xyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar CI 62 by the company Rhodia. (3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino hydroxy alky ldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/ epoxypropyl/ diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XXXI) or (XXXII): (CH2)k (CH2)k
C(R12)-
-(CH2)t- CR19 X C(R12)-CH2- -(CH2)t- CR
H2C H2C CH
N+
/ ^ Y-
R / R
^10 11 10
(XXXI) (XXXII)
in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
- Ri2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote a Ci-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
- Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, sold in particular under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (XXXIII) below:
R 13 R 15
Figure imgf000023_0001
(XXXIII) in which:
- Ri3, Ri4, Ri5 and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,
or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom different from nitrogen;
or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
- X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that Ai , R13 and Ri 5 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH2)n2-CO-D-OC-(CH2)P- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-0)X-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-
Figure imgf000024_0001
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
Figure imgf000025_0001
(XXXIV)
in which Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A compound constituted by units of formula (XXXIV) that is particularly preferred is the one for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = CI, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature. (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XXXV):
R18 R20
— N+ - (CH2)r - NH - CO - (CH2)q - CO - NH (CH2)S - N+ - A—
R19 v R21
x- (xxxv) in which:
- Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or
-CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X" denotes an anion, such as a halide,
- A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2- Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(11) polyamines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
— CH2— CH—
NH2 (A)
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
— CH— CH—
2 I (B)
NH— C-H
I I
O
In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non- limiting way, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives. Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2),
(7), (8) and (10) mentioned above.
Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts; polymers constituted of repeating units corresponding to formula (XXXIV) above, in particular the compound hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature, and mixtures thereof.
The total content of cationic polymer(s) in the washing composition A according to the invention may range from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
Amphoteric polymers
The washing composition A may comprise one or more amphoteric polymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amphoteric polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and also anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
The amphoteric polymers may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer,
(ii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and
(iii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer.
Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer are units of structure (la) below:
Figure imgf000028_0001
in which Ri denotes H or CH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert- butylamino, dodecylamino and -NH-CH2OH radical.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (la).
The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type are units of structure (Ila) below:
Figure imgf000028_0002
in which:
- R3 denotes H or CH3,
- R4 denotes a group (CH2)k, with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
- R5, Re and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl,
- Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ila).
Among these units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium- type monomer of formula (Ila), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5, Re and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y" denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type are units of formula (Ilia):
Figure imgf000029_0001
in which Rs denotes H or CH3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or an -NH-C(CH3)2- CH2-SO3H radical.
The preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide- type monomer.
The content of units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid- type monomer as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers are constituted solely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers that may be mentioned include acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.
As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by Nalco.
More preferentially, the cosmetic washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, and copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt.
The amphoteric polymer(s) may generally be present in the washing composition A according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition A.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the washing composition A according to the invention comprises:
- one or more anionic surfactants (i) chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably of formula (1) as defined above;
- one or more anionic surfactants (ii) chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide; (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12- Ci8)acylisethio nates; alpha-olefm sulfonates;
- one or more nonionic surfactants in a total content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A, chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
· saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C4o, especially Cs to C20 and better still C10 to Ci8 alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide; and
• (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides;
- one or more amphoteric surfactants, in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition A, comprising one or more surfactants chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-
C8)alkylsulfobetaines; and
- one or more polymers chosen from:
· one or more cationic polymers preferably with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 3 meq/g, preferentially chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium halide homopolymers or copolymers; and/or preferably
• one or more amphoteric polymers preferably constituted solely of units derived from monomers (i) of acrylamide type, (ii) of acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
The washing compositions A in accordance with the invention may be used as shampoos for washing and/or conditioning the hair; they are preferably applied in this case to wet hair in amounts that are effective for washing it; the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands may then be removed, after an optional leave- on time, by rinsing with water, the operation possibly being repeated one or more times.
Cosmetic composition B
Anionic beneficial agents
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "beneficial agent" means a cosmetic treatment agent that is capable of giving keratin fibres a cosmetic property, especially of protecting them, colouring them, enhancing their beauty, conditioning them, treating them and/or holding them in shape.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anionic beneficial agent" means a beneficial agent comprising one or more anionic groups.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anionic group" means a group bearing an acid function in neutralized or non-neutralized form. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: -CO2H, -CO2", -SO3H, -SO3" , -OSO3H, -OSO3-, -H2PO3, -HPO3-, -PO32", -H2PO2, -HPO2", -PO22", -POH and -PO\
The anionic beneficial agent(s) that may be used in composition B according to the invention may be chosen especially from:
(i) anionic sunscreens; (ii) anionic polymers and/or amphoteric polymers;
(iii) anionic surfactants comprising a carbon-based chain containing at least 14 carbon atoms;
(iv) anionic direct dyes; and
(v) mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the anionic beneficial agents are chosen from anionic sunscreens and anionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, the beneficial agent(s) are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
The composition may thus comprise, as anionic sunscreen(s), sunscreens chosen from UV-A and/or UV-B organic screening agents as described below.
Organic UVA-screening agents
A first example is benzene- l,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A- 2639347.
Figure imgf000033_0001
in which F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(Ri)3 + in which the radicals Ri, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn+/n, Mn+ denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+ preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+ and Zr4+. It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (XV) above can give rise to the "cis-trans" isomer around one or more double bonds and that all the isomers fall within the context of the present invention.
Among the organic UVA-screening agents that can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups bearing sulfonic groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 669 323. They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in patent US 2 463 264 and also in patent application EP-A-0 669 323.
The compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups correspond to the general formula (XVI) below:
Figure imgf000034_0001
in which:
- Z represents an organic residue of valency (1 + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a totally conjugated assembly;
- X* denotes S, 0 or NR6;
- R1 denotes hydrogen, Ci-Cis alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy, a C5-C15 aryl, a C2-C18 acyloxy,
Figure imgf000034_0002
- the radicals R2, R3, R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R1;
- R6 denotes hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl;
- Y denotes hydrogen, Li, Na, K, NH4, l/2Ca, l/2Mg, 1/3A1 or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organic nitrogenous base;
- m is 0 or 1 ;
- n is a number from 2 to 6;
- 1 is a number from 1 to 4;
- with the proviso that 1 + n does not exceed the value 6.
Among these compounds, preference is given to those for which the group Z is chosen from the group made up of:
(al) an olefin linear aliphatic C2-C6 hydrocarbon-based radical which may be interrupted with a C5-C12 aryl group or a C4-C10 heteroaryl, in particular chosen from the following groups:
H- or alternatively
Figure imgf000035_0001
(bl) a C5-C15 aryl group which may be interrupted with an olefin linear aliphatic C2- C6 hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular chosen from the following groups:
Figure imgf000035_0002
(cl) a C3-C10 heteroaryl residue, in particular chosen from the following groups:
Figure imgf000035_0003
in which R6 has the same meaning as that indicated above; said radicals Z as defined in paragraphs (al), (bl) and (cl) possibly being substituted with Ci-C6 alkyl, Ci-C6 alkoxy, phenoxy, hydroxyl, methylenedioxy or amino radicals optionally substituted with one or two C1-C5 alkyl radicals.
Preferably, the compounds of formula (XVI) comprise, per molecule, 1, 3 or 4 groups SO3Y.
As examples of compounds of formula (XVI) that may be used, mention may be made of the compounds of formulae (a') to (j') having the following structure, and also the salts thereof:
Figure imgf000036_0001
(b')
Figure imgf000036_0002
0') CP)
Among all these compounds, preference will most particularly be given to l,4-bis(benzimidazolyl)phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) (compound (d')) or a salt thereof, having the following structure, s company Symrise:
Figure imgf000036_0003
Among the organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of benzophenone compounds comprising at least one sulfonic acid function, for instance the following compounds:
Benzophenone-4, sold by the company BASF under the name Uvinul MS40®:
Figure imgf000037_0001
Figure imgf000037_0002
Benzophenone-9, sold by the company BASF under the name Uvinul DS49® :
Figure imgf000037_0003
Among the organic UVA-screening agents, use will more particularly be made of benzene- l,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) produced by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SX®.
Organic UVB-screening agents
The organic UVB-screening agents are especially chosen from:
• hydrophilic cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4- hydroxycinnamic acid,
• hydrophilic benzylidenecamphor compounds,
• hydrophilic phenylbenzimidazole compounds,
• hydrophilic p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds,
• hydrophilic salicylic compounds, and
• mixtures thereof.
As examples of hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
para-aminobenzoic compounds: • PABA,
• PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF; salicylic compounds:
Dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher,
TEA salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise; benzylidenecamphor compounds:
Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL® by Chimex,
Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex; phenylbenzimidazole compounds:
• Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
Use will more particularly be made of the screening agent phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, sold especially under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
Preferably, the anionic sunscreens that may be used in composition B according to the present invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from sulfonic screening agents, preferably from benzene- l,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof; sulfonic benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-4; sulfonic benzylidenecamphor derivatives, such as benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid and salts thereof, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
The anionic sunscreen(s) may generally be present in the composition B according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B. Anionic polymers
Composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic polymers as beneficial agent(s).
The anionic polymers generally used in the present invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid, and having a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 000 000.
The carboxylic groups may be provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to the formula:
Figure imgf000039_0001
in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighbouring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, and R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
In formula (XVII) above, an alkyl group preferably comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular denotes methyl and ethyl groups.
The anionic polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are:
A) acrylic or methacrylic acid homo- or copolymers, or salts thereof and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol® E or K by Allied Colloid and Ultrahold® by BASF, the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names Reten® 421 , 423 or 425 by Hercules, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.
B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German patent application 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain, as described in particular in Luxembourgian patent applications 75370 and 75371 or provided under the name Quadramer® by American Cyanamid. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1 -C4 alkyl methacrylate and the copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX by BASF.
C) Copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those whose chain comprises vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allylic or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid containing a long hydrocarbon-based chain such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers to be optionally grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an alpha- or beta- cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos. 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products that fall within this category are the resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by National Starch.
D) Polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives or acrylic acid and esters thereof; these polymers may be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 113 and GB patent 839 805, and especially those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by ISP.
Polymers also falling within this category are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an α-olefm, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions being monoesterified or monoamidated. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the Applicant.
E) Polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.
F) The polymers comprising sulfonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
These polymers may be chosen especially from:
- polyvinylsulfonic acid salts having a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100 000, and also copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer, such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
- polystyrenesulfonic acid salts and sodium salts having a molecular mass of about 500 000 and of about 100 000, sold, respectively, under the names Flexan® 500 and Flexan® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719;
- polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts, such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631 and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer® HSP 1180 by Henkel.
G) Anionic silicones.
Preferably, the anionic polymers are chosen from (meth)acrylic polymers and sulfonic polymers, such as those of families A), B) and F), better still from (meth)acrylic polymers.
According to the invention, the anionic polymers are even more particularly chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name Ultrahold Strong® by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX by the company BASF, and from copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold especially under the name Resyn 28-29-30 by the company AkzoNobel.
Better still, the anionic polymers are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold, for example, under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma; copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold, for example, under the name Luvimer® MAEX by the company BASF.
According to the invention, use may also be made of anionic latices or pseudolatices, i.e. aqueous dispersions of insoluble polymer particles.
Preferably, the polymer(s) bearing anionic group(s) that may be used as beneficial agent(s) are one or more anionic polymers such as those described above, such as (meth)acrylic polymer(s), and mixtures thereof.
The anionic polymer(s) may generally be present in the composition B according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2%> and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
Amphoteric polymers
It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers as anionic beneficial agents.
The amphoteric polymers may be chosen from the amphoteric polymers that may be used in the cosmetic washing composition A described previously.
In other words, the definitions, preferences and features of the amphoteric polymers present in said cosmetic composition B are identical to those described above for the cosmetic washing composition A.
Examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers that may be mentioned include acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.
As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by Nalco.
Preferably, use is made of the copolymers whose INCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV71 or Balance® 47 by AkzoNobel.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition B comprises one or more amphoteric polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers, and octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
The amphoteric polymer(s) may generally be present in the composition B according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2%> and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B. Anionic direct dyes
Composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic direct dyes as beneficial agent(s). The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid direct dyes" owing to their affinity for alkaline substances. The term "anionic direct dye" means any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
According to the invention, the anionic direct dye(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic direct dyes of formulae (II), (ΙΓ), (III), (ΠΓ), (IV), (IV), (V), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII) and (IX) below:
a) the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (II) or (ΙΓ):
Figure imgf000043_0001
in which formulae (II) and (ΙΓ):
R7, R8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'io, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitro so;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
R"-S(0)2-, with R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;
R"'-S(0)2-X'- with R" ' representing an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group, X' as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0~)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previously;
optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group;
cycloalkyl; especially cyclohexyl;
- Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl,
(0)2S(0~)-, M+ or phenylamino groups;
or alternatively two contiguous groups R7 with Rs or Rs with R9 or R9 with Rio together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R's or R's with R'9 or R'9 with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 , M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)- X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X" and Ar as defined previously;
W represents a sigma bond σ, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
it being understood that formulae (II) and (IF) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 , M+ or one carboxylate radical -(0)CO~, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate; As examples of dyes of formula (II), mention may be made of: Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow;
and, as examples of dyes of formula (IF), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38;
b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (III) and (III'):
Figure imgf000045_0001
in which formulae (III) and (ΠΓ):
Rii, Ri2 and Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(0)2S(0~), M+ with M+ as defined previously;
Ri4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0", M+ with M+ as defined previously;
Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom;
Ri6 represents an oxo group, in which case R'i6 is absent, or alternatively R15 with Ri6 together form a double bond;
Ri7 and Ris, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- (0)2S(0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- Ar-0-S(0)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group, preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
Ri9 and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D', which is optionally substituted;
R' i6, R' i9 and R'20, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy 1 group;
R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, are as defined previously, preferentially Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;
represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
it being understood that formulae (III) and (ΠΓ) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0", M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (III), mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (III'), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17;
Figure imgf000046_0001
which formulae (IV) and (IV):
R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
- optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferentially substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
- (0)2S(0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR2sR29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: alkyl;
polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;
aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group; cycloalkyl, especially cyclohexyl;
Z, represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'2sR'29 with R'2s and R'29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;
it being understood that formulae (IV) and (IV) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0~)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0", M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (IV), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2;
and, as examples of dyes of formula (IV), mention may be made of: Acid Black 48; d) the nitro dyes of formulae (V) and (V):
(V)
Figure imgf000047_0001
Figure imgf000048_0001
which formulae (V) and (V):
R30, R31 and R32, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- polyhaloalkyl;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously;
- (0)2S(0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
- heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino;
particular, R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a group -NH-;
ALK represents a linear or branched divalent Ci-C6 alkylene group; in particular, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
n is 1 or 2;
p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusively;
q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusively;
u is 0 or 1 ;
when n is 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;
when n is 2, J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially, J represents a radical -SO2-; M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; ■ (X , which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group
optionally substituted with one or more groups R30 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (V) and (V) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0~)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0", M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (V), mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (V), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1, the sodium salt of2,4-dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino- 5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4'-N,N-(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'- nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid, 4- -hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI):
Figure imgf000049_0001
in which formula (VI):
R33, R34, R35 and R36, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (0)mS(0~)-, M+ with M+ and m as defined previously;
R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
alternatively two contiguous groups R4i with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: Γ; with Γ optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0~)-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)- and ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; with M+, R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously;
particularly, R37 to R4o represent a hydrogen atom, and R4i to R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0)2S(0~)-, M+; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted with a group (0)2S(0 ;
it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or Γ comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0~)- or a carboxylate radical -C(0)0"; preferentially sulfonate;
As examples of dyes of formula (VI), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50;
f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (VII):
Figure imgf000050_0001
which formula (VII):
R45, R46, R47 and R48, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
R49, R50, R51 and R52, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl; alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
particularly, R53, R54, R55 and R represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
L represents an alkoxide O", M+; a thioalkoxide S", M+ or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or optionally substituted aryl; L' represents more particularly an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (0)mS(0~)-, M+ groups with m and M+ as defined previously;
Q and Q', which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
M+ is as defined previously; as examples of dyes of formula (VII), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;
g) the indole-based dyes of formula (VIII):
Figure imgf000051_0001
which formula (VIII):
R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R50, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
Ri and Rh, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
it being understood that formula (VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0~)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0", M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As an example of dyes of formula (VIII), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74. h) the quino line-based dyes o
Figure imgf000052_0001
in which formula (IX):
Rei represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
R52, R53, and R54, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
or alternatively R51 with R52, or 51 with R54, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
it being understood that formula (IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0~)-, preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (IX), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
More particularly, the cosmetic composition B comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:
Figure imgf000053_0001
Figure imgf000054_0001
nap t a enesu on c ac c Re II
Most of these dyes are described in particular in the Colour Index published by The Society of Dyers and Colourists, P.O. Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, Yorkshire, BD12 JBN England.
The anionic dyes that are most particularly preferred are the dyes designated in the Colour Index under the code C.I. 58005 (monosodium salt of 1 ,2-dihydroxy- 9,10-anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid), C.I. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10- dihydro-4-hydroxy-9, 10-dioxo- 1 -anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid), C.I. 15510 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-l-naphthalenyl)azo]benzenesulfonic acid), C.I. 15985 (disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-sulfophenyl)azo]-2- naphthalenesulfonic acid), C.I. 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3- (phenylazo)-2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid), C.I. 20470 (disodium salt of l-amino-2- (4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-naphthalenedisulfonic acid), C.I. 42090 (disodium salt of N-ethyl-N-[4-[[4-[ethyl(3- sulfophenyl)methyl]amino]phenyl](2-sulfophenyl)methylene]-2,5-cyclohexadien-l- ylidene]-3-sulfobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, inner salt), C.I. 61570 (disodium salt of 2,2'-[(9, 10-dihydro-9, 10-dioxo- 1 ,4-anthracenediyl)diimino]bis [5 -methyl] - benzenesulfonic acid.
Use may also be made of compounds corresponding to the mesomeric or tautomeric forms of structures (II) to (IX).
In particular, the anionic direct dye(s) represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of composition B, and preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight approximately. More particularly, the anionic dye(s) represent from 0.01% to 5%> by weight. The anionic surfactants comprising a carbon-based chain containing at least
14 carbon atoms may especially comprise in their structure one or more sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylate groups; they may be oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, the total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups possibly ranging from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 10.
Said anionic beneficial agent(s) used in composition B according to the invention may represent in total from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
Composition B according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants such as cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; one or more C12-C30 fatty alcohols; one or more C12-C32 fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; one or more silicones.
The washing composition A and/or composition B according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n- butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the washing composition A and composition B according to the invention, independently of each other, have a total water content of between 20% and 95% by weight, preferably between 30%> and 90%>, preferentially between 40%> and 85%o by weight and better still between 50%> and 80%> by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the washing composition A and of composition B according to the invention, independently of each other, generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferentially from 3.5 to 6 and even better still from 4 to 5.5.
The pH of these compositions may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are usually used. Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents that may be mentioned, for example, are mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
The washing composition A and/or composition B according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators other than the cationic or amphoteric polymers described previously; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; C12-C32 fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, plant or synthetic oils; silicones; vitamins or provitamins; nonionic polymers; pH stabilizers, preserving agents; dyes other than the anionic direct dyes described previously; fragrances; agents for preventing hair loss, anti-seborrhoeic agents, antidandruff agents.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
These additives are generally present in the washing composition(s) A and/or in the composition(s) B according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the washing composition(s) A and/or the composition(s) B.
One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic washing composition A, comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and
- at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.
The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention thus comprises at least one step that consists in applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic washing composition A as defined above.
This or these steps may optionally be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example a leave-on time of 1 to 15 minutes and especially 2 to 5 minutes; they may also be followed by an optional rinsing step, for example with water; and/or a drying step. Preferably, said application step(s) are followed by rinsing, optionally followed by drying. Preferentially, said application steps are followed solely by rinsing, i.e. without a drying step.
The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention thus also comprises at least one step that consists in applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition B as defined above. This or these steps may optionally be followed by a step of leaving the composition on, for example, a leave-on time of 1 to 30 minutes and especially 2 to 20 minutes; they may also be followed by an optional rinsing step, for example with water; and/or a drying step. Preferably, said application step(s) are followed by rinsing, optionally followed by drying.
The application step(s) may also be followed by a step of heat treatment of the fibres using a heating tool, for example with the aid of a straightening or curling iron, for example from 40 to 250°C, preferably 40-100°C or even 40-80°C, for example with a hairdryer, a hood, or even a hood of Climazon type.
The step(s) of applying the washing composition A and the step(s) of applying composition B are performed successively, or sequentially, which means that the step(s) of applying the washing composition A precede the step(s) of applying composition B; intermediate steps, for example of leaving on and/or of rinsing and/or drying, possibly being present between these two application steps.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the step(s) of applying the washing composition A precede the step(s) of applying composition B.
More preferentially, the process comprises at least the following steps:
- at least one step of applying the washing composition A according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing; this step possibly being repeated a certain number of times,
- at least one step of applying composition B according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing and drying.
A subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic washing composition A, comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and - at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprises:
- at least one step of applying to said fibres the washing composition A as defined previously;
- optionally followed by a leave-on time and/or rinsing;
- followed by at least one step of applying to said fibres cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes as defined previously, optionally followed by a leave-on time and/or rinsing and/or drying.
According to this embodiment, the leave-on time of the washing composition A on the keratin fibres may be between 1 and 15 minutes and preferably between 2 and 5 minutes.
According to this embodiment, the leave-on time of composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes on the keratin fibres may be between 1 and 30 minutes and preferably between 2 and 20 minutes.
According to this embodiment, the washing composition A and/or composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes is generally rinsed with water. An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.
Another subject of the present invention is also the use of a cosmetic washing composition A, comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) and one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers, in combination with a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents, as defined previously, for obtaining persistent conditioning of said keratin fibres, especially in terms of suppleness, a smooth feel, disentangling, colouring and/or protection, which is persistent especially for at least three shampoo washes.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES
The washing compositions Al to A8 below were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (as g of active material).
Al A2 A3 A4
Laureth-5 carboxylic
6 6 4.41 4.41 acid
Sodium laureth sulfate 7 7 7.98 7.98
Cocamidopropyl
7 7 6 6 betaine
Laureth- 12 4 - - -
Laureth-4 1 - - -
Caprylyl/capryl
- 3 2.28 3.78 glucoside
Polyquaternium-6 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Polyquaternium-53 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26
NaCl 1.79 1.79 2.1 2.1
Preserving agents,
qs qs qs qs fragrance
pH agent qs pH = qs pH = qs pH = qs pH =
4.7 ± 0.3 4.7 ± 0.3 4.3 ± 0.3 4.3 ± 0.3
Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
A5 A6 A7 A8
Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 6 6 6 6
Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 7 7 7 7
Cocamidopropylbetaine 7 7 7 7
Laureth-12 4 - - 4
Laureth-4 1 - - 1
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside - 3 3 -
Polyquaternium-6 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Polyquaternium-53 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26
Hexadimethrine chloride 0.5 0.5 - -
Viny lamine /V iny lformamide
- - 0.5 0.5 copolymer
NaCl 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Preserving agents, fragrance qs qs qs qs qs pH = qs pH = qs pH = qs pH = pH agent
4.3 ± 0.3 4.3 ± 0.3 4.3 ± 0.3 4.3 ± 0.3
Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
The dye compositions (B, C1-C4, D1-D2 and E) were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (as g of active material):
Figure imgf000061_0001
CI C2 C3 C4
Cetearyl alcohol 10 10 10 10
Cetyl esters 1 1 1 1
Sodium cetearyl
0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 sulfate
Caprylyl glycol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Dimethicone
0.65 0.65 0.65 0.65 500 000 est
Dimethicone
1.95 1.95 1.95 1.95 50 est
Acid black 1 0.25 - - 0.0375
Orange 4 - 0.25 - 0.0775
EXT. Violet 2 - - 0.25 0.065
Yellow 5 - - - 0.07
Preserving
agents, qs qs qs qs fragrance
qs pH = qs pH = qs pH = qs pH = pH agent
3.5 ± 0.5 3.5 ± 0.5 3.5 ± 0.5 3.5 ± 0.5
Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
Dl D2
Hydroxyethyl
acrylate/sodium
7.2 7.2 acryloyldimethyl taurate
copolymer
Acid black 1 0.25 -
Orange 4 - 0.25
Ethanol 14 14
Lactic acid 3.96 3.96
Water qs 100 qs 100 E
Cetearyl alcohol 8.2
Glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate 2
Disodium stearoyl glutamate 0.5
Dimethicone 50 est 2
Dimethicone 60 000 est 0.5
Benzyl alcohol 2.5
Dipropylene glycol 1
Phenoxyethanol 0.5
Yellow 5 0.022
Orange 4 0.024
EXT. Violet 2 0.015
Acid red 52 0.005
Acid red 18 0.011
Acid black 1 0.001
Preserving agents, fragrance qs
pH agent qs pH = 2.7 ± 0.3
Water qs 100
A washing composition Al to A8 is applied, followed by rinsing, and a colouring care composition B, C1-C4, D1-D2 or E is then applied on a natural 100% grey locks; the composition is left on for 2 to 5 minutes and then rinsed out with water and the hair is dried with a hairdryer.
An appreciable change in the level of colouring of the hair is observed visually: the natural 100% grey locks change in colour as a function of the type of dye present in the colouring care composition.

Claims

1. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step (a) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic washing composition A, comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers; and
- at least one step (b) of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents.
2. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen from those of formula ( 1 ) :
R, -(OC2H4)— OCH2COOA (1 )
in which:
- Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8- C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;
preferably, Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-Cis alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium group, a sodium atom, a potassium atom, a lithium atom, a magnesium atom, a calcium atom or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
3. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to the preceding claim, in which the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen from those of formula (1) in which:
- Ri denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom, and - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10;
preferentially, Ri denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
4. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; polyoxyalkylenated (C6- C24)alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
5. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6 -C24 alkyl sulfo succinates and especially C12 -C20 alkyl sulfo succinates; especially lauryl sulfo succinates;
- C6 -C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethio nates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- C6 -C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6 -C24 and especially C12 -C20 acylglycinates;
- alpha-olefm sulfonates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; more preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from Cs-Ci4 and more particularly C12-C14 alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and most particularly lauryl (ether) sulfates.
6. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs to C4o alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups;
- ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units;
- fatty acid esters of saccharose;
- polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;
- N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides such as (C 10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides;
- nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the general formula (2) below:
Figure imgf000066_0001
in which:
Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4;
v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
7. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) (iii) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C40, especially C8-C20 and better still Cio-Cis alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12); and
(C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides;
better still, the nonionic surfactant(s) are preferentially chosen from the alkyl(poly)glycosides of formula (2) as defined in Claim 6, and most particularly from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and even more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
8. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactant(s) (iv) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-
C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and also:
- the compounds having the respective formulae (3) and (4) below:
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X" (3) in which:
- Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydro lysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
- X" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+ and X" are absent;
Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4) in which:
- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';
- B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;
- X* represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y* represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2-CH(OH)S03H or the group CH2CH(OH)S03-Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
- Ra' represents a C10 to C3o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group;
and the compounds of formula (5):
Ra»- HCH(Y")-(CH2)nCO H(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (5) in which:
- Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(OH)S03H or the group CH2CH(OH)S03-Z";
- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra" represents a C10 to C3o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. 9. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic washing composition A comprises one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, or even greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, in particular ranging from 3 to 20 meq/g, especially from 4 to 20 meq/g, or better still from 5 to 20 meq/g;
preferably chosen from:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae
-C
Figure imgf000069_0001
in which:
R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;
(2) cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, more particularly cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums;
(3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers;
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis- unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis- alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents;
(6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from digly colic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms;
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XXXI) or (XXXII): 12)-CH2-
(XXXII)
Figure imgf000070_0001
in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + 1 being equal to 1 ;
- Ri2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- Rio and Rn , independently of each other, denote a Ci-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn , independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
- Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate; (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (XXXIII) below:
5
Figure imgf000071_0001
(XXXIII)
in which:
- Ri3, Ri4, Ri5 and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,
or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom different from nitrogen;
or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
- X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH2)n2-CO-D-OC-(CH2)P- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-0)X-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-
Figure imgf000072_0001
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-;
(9) poly quaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XXXV):
^18 R20
— N+ - (CH2)r - NH - CO - (CH2)q - CO - NH (CH2)S - N+ - A—
Figure imgf000072_0002
in which:
- Ri8, Ri , R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X" denotes an anion, such as a halide,
- A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents
Figure imgf000072_0003
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole;
(11) polyamines;
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
-CH— CH
NH2 (A)
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
— CH— CH—
2 I (B)
NH— C-H
1 1
O chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one more vinylamine-based units and optionally one or more vinylformamide- based units.
10. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic washing composition A comprises one or more amphoteric polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, and copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt.
11. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition B comprises one or more anionic beneficial agents chosen from:
(i) anionic sunscreens;
(ii) anionic polymers and/or amphoteric polymers;
(iii) anionic surfactants comprising a carbon-based chain containing at least 14 carbon atoms;
(iv) anionic direct dyes; and
(v) mixtures thereof.
12. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to Claim 11, in which the cosmetic composition B comprises one or more anionic sunscreens chosen, alone or as a mixture, from sulfonic screening agents, preferably from benzene- 1,4- bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) and the various salts thereof; sulfonic benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-4; sulfonic benzylidenecamphor derivatives, such as benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid and salts thereof, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
13. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to Claim 11, in which the cosmetic composition B comprises one or more anionic polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate.
14. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to Claim 11, in which the composition B comprises one or more amphoteric polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, and octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
15. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to Claim 11, in which the cosmetic composition B comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic direct dyes of formulae (II), (ΙΓ), (III), (ΠΓ), (IV), (IV), (V), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII) and (IX) below:
a) the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (II) or (ΙΓ):
Figure imgf000074_0001
in which formulae (II) and (ΙΓ):
R7, Rs, Rs>, Rio, R'7, R's, R'9 and R'io, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- R"-S(0)2-, with R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;
- R' "-S(0)2-X'- with R' " representing an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group, X' as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino;
- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0~)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previously;
- optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group;
- cycloalkyl; especially cyclohexyl;
- Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, (0)2S(0~)-, M+ or phenylamino groups;
- or alternatively two contiguous groups R7 with Rs or Rs with R9 or R9 with Rio together form a fused benzo group A'; and R7 with R's or R's with R'9 or R'9 with
R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0~)-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X' , X" and Ar as defined previously;
W represents a sigma bond, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
it being understood that formulae (II) and (IF) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 , M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M+ on one of the rings A, A, B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate; b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (III) and (III'):
Figure imgf000076_0001
in which formulae (III) and (ΠΓ):
Ri i, Ri2 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(0)2S(0~), M+ with M+ as defined previously;
■ Ri4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0", M+ with M+ as defined previously;
Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom;
Ri6 represents an oxo group, in which case R'i6 is absent, or alternatively R15 with Ri6 together form a double bond;
■ Ri7 and Ris, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a group chosen from i) (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously, and ii) Ar-0-S(0)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
Ri9 and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D', which is optionally substituted;
R' i6, R' i9 and R'20, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy 1 group;
R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, are as defined previously, preferentially Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;
represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
it being understood that formulae (III) and (ΠΓ) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0~)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0", M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate; c) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (IV) and (IV):
Figure imgf000077_0001
in which formulae (IV) and (IV):
R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferentially substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
(di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino ;
(0)2S(0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R2 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;
aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group;
cycloalkyl, especially cyclohexyl; Z, represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'2sR'29 with R'28 and R'29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;
it being understood that formulae (IV) and (IV) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0", M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate; d) the nitro dyes of formulae (V) and (V):
Figure imgf000078_0001
in which formulae (V) and (V):
R30, R31 and R32, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitro so;
polyhaloalkyl;
R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously;
(0)2S(0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
(O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
(di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino ;
heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; in particular, R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a group -NH-;
ALK represents a linear or branched divalent Ci-C6 alkylene group; in particular, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
n is 1 or 2;
p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusively;
q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusively;
u is 0 or 1 ;
when n is 1 , J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;
when n is 2, J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially, J represents a radical -SO2-;
M' r resents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; when it is present, represents a benzo group
Figure imgf000079_0001
optionally substituted with one or more groups R30 as defined previously;
it being understood that formulae (V) and (V) comprise at least one sulfonate radical
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0", M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI):
Figure imgf000079_0002
in which formula (VI):
■ R33, R34, R35 and R36, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (O)mS(O )-, M+ with M+ and m as defined previously;
R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
or alternatively two contiguous groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: Γ; with Γ optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0~)-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)- and ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; with M+, R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously;
particularly, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R41 to R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0)2S(0~)-, M+; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted with a group (0)2S(0 ;
it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or Γ comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0~)- or a carboxylate radical -C(0)0"; preferentially sulfonate; f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (VII):
Figure imgf000081_0001
in which formula (VII):
R45, R46, R47 and R48, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
R49, R50, R51 and R52, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
(0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
particularly, R53, R54, R55 and R48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
L represents an alkoxide O", M+; a thioalkoxide S", M+ or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or optionally substituted aryl; L' represents more particularly an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (0)mS(0~)-, M+ groups with m and M+ as defined previously;
Q and Q', which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom; M+ is as defined previously; g) the indole-based dyes of formula (VIII):
Figure imgf000082_0001
in which formula (VIII):
R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R50, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
■ Ri and Rh, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
it being understood that formula (VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0~)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0", M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate; h) the quino line-based dyes of formula (IX):
Figure imgf000083_0001
in which formula (IX):
Rei represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
R52, R53, and R54, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
or alternatively 51 with Q, or 51 with R54, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0)2S(0~)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
it being understood that formula (IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ preferentially sodium sulfonate.
16. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres according to Claim 1 1 , in which the cosmetic composition B comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:
(C.I. 45380) Acid Red 87 (VII)
(C.l. 10316) Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid (V)
(C.l. 10383) Acid Orange 3 (V)
(C.l. 13015) Acid Yellow 9 / Food Yellow 2 (II)
(C.l. 14780) / Direct Red 45 / Food Red 13 (II)
(C.l. 1371 1) Acid Black 52 (II)
(C.l. 13065) Acid Yellow 36 (II)
(C.l. 14700) Sodium salt of l-hydroxy-2-(2',4'-xylyl-5-sulfonatoazo)naphthalene-4- sulfonic acid / Food Red 1 (II)
(C.l. 14720) Acid Red 14 / Food Red 3 / Mordant Blue 79 (II)
(C. 1. 14805) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-[(2-methoxy-5-nitrophenyl)diaza]-6- (phenylamino)naphthalene-2-sulfonic acid / Acid Brown 4 (II)
(C.l. 15510) Acid Orange 7 / Pigment Orange 17 / Solvent Orange 49 (II)
(C.l. 15985) Food Yellow 3 / Pigment Yellow 104 (II)
(C.l. 16185) Acid Red 27 / Food Red 9 (II)
(C.l. 16230) Acid Orange 10 / Food Orange 4 (II)
Figure imgf000084_0001
(C.I. 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-((2-methoxyphenyl)azo)-l naphthalenesulfonic acid / Acid Red 4 (II)
17. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
- at least one step of applying to said fibres the washing composition A as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 10;
- optionally followed by a leave-on time and/or rinsing;
- followed by at least one step of applying to said fibres cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic direct dyes as defined according to any one of Claims 15 or 16, optionally followed by a leave-on time and/or rinsing and/or drying.
18. Use of a cosmetic washing composition A comprising (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i); (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants; (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more amphoteric polymers, in combination with a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic beneficial agents, for obtaining persistent conditioning of said keratin fibres, especially in terms of suppleness, a smooth feel, disentangling, colouring and/or protection, which is persistent especially for at least three shampoo washes.
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