WO2017041193A1 - Prediction of the quality of a fabric - Google Patents

Prediction of the quality of a fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017041193A1
WO2017041193A1 PCT/CH2016/000117 CH2016000117W WO2017041193A1 WO 2017041193 A1 WO2017041193 A1 WO 2017041193A1 CH 2016000117 W CH2016000117 W CH 2016000117W WO 2017041193 A1 WO2017041193 A1 WO 2017041193A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
quality index
yarn
parameters
given
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PCT/CH2016/000117
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Thomas Nasiou
Mona QAUD
Serap DÖNMEZ KRETZSCHMAR
Vasileios ARCHONTOPOULOS
Sivakumar Narayanan
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Uster Technologies Ag
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Publication of WO2017041193A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017041193A1/en

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    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N33/00—Investigating or analysing materials by specific methods not covered by groups G01N1/00 - G01N31/00
    • G01N33/36—Textiles
    • G01N33/367—Fabric or woven textiles

Definitions

  • the present invention lies in the field of textile quality control It relates to a method for predicting the quality of a fabric to be made from a given yarn, according to the preamble of the first patent claim.
  • Methods for simulating the appearance of a fabric to be made from a given yarn are known, for instance, from the publications US-5,671 ,061 A, WO-97/31262 Al, WO-98/16823 Al, US-6,928,335 Bl and EP-1 '006'225 A2. They comprise the steps of measuring at least one parameter of the given yam, inputting the measurement results into a computer, calculating therefrom the appearance of the fabric and representing the calculated appearance as a simulation on an output peripheral.
  • WO-2013/185248 Al discloses a method and device for comparing the qualities of at least two yarns. Measured values of at least one property of the yams are detected along the longitudinal directions of the yarns. Values of at least two parameters of the yams are determined from the measured values. A yarn-quality index is calculated from the values of the at least two parameters for each of the yarns. The yam-quality indices are
  • the method according to the invention is for predicting the quality of a fabric to be made from a given yam. At least two yarn characteristics of the given yam are determined, A fabric-quality index is calculated for the given yarn from the at least two yarn
  • the fabric-quality index is a scalar with a value in the range between 1 and 5.
  • the at least one fabric characteristic preferably relates to a production method of the fabric.
  • the fabric is, e.g., a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a warp-knitted fabric.
  • the at least two yarn characteristics can be determined by measuring measurement values of at least one property of the given yam and determining from the measurement values parameter values of at least two parameters of the given yam as the at least two yam characteristics.
  • the fabric-quality index relates, e.g., to an appearance property of the fabric, to a pilling property of the fabric or to a breaking property of the given yarn during production of the fabric.
  • the fabric-quality index relates to an appearance property of the fabric and the calculation of the fabric-quality index takes into account parameter values of at least two yam parameters from the following set of parameters: mass variation, thick places, thin places, neps, hairiness, hairiness variation, diameter, diameter variation, shape, density, trash, twist.
  • the fabric-quality index relates to a breaking property of the given yam during production of the fabric and the calculation of the fabric-quality index takes into account parameter values of at least two yam parameters from the following set of parameters: mass variation, thick places, thin places, hairiness, hairiness variation, trash, breaking force, breaking elongation, twist.
  • the drawing shows a block diagram of the method according to the invention.
  • Figure 1 shows a block diagram of the method according to the invention.
  • At least two yarn characteristics 1 of a given yarn are determined. This is preferably achieved by measuring measurement values of at least one property of the given yarn and determining from the measurement values parameter values of at least two parameters of the given yarn. Instruments for measuring values of a yam property and determining therefrom yarn parameters are known. The laboratory instruments listed in the Application Report repeat repeater ® LABORATORY SYSTEMS. Description of all quality parameters measured by Uster Technologies fiber and yam testing equipment", SE-562, Uster
  • At least one fabric characteristic 2 of the fabric is needed as an input for the method according to the invention.
  • the at least one fabric characteristic 2 can relate to a production method of the fabric.
  • the fabric characteristic 2 can consist of the information that the fabric is a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a warp- knitted fabric.
  • a fabric-quality index 3 is calculated for the given yarn from the at least two yam characteristics 1 and from at least one fabric characteristic 2.
  • the fabric-quality index 3 is a scalar with a value in the range between 1 and 5. As needed, the index values can be rounded to the next integer or to the next half-integer.
  • three examples of fabric-quality indices 3 are given for carded, ring-spun yarn made of 100 % cotton.
  • the fabric-quality indices 3 are scaled so as to lie in the range between 1 , meaning a poor fabric quality, and 5, meaning an excellent fabric quality. If a formula yields a value smaller than 1 , then the value shall be rounded up to 1 , and if a formula yields a value larger than 5, then the value shall be rounded down to 5.
  • a fabric-appearance index U relates to an appearance property of the fabric, (a) Woven fabric
  • a yarn-breakage index I B relates to a breakage property of the weft yarn during weaving.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Food Science & Technology (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Analytical Chemistry (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Immunology (AREA)
  • Pathology (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The method is for predicting the quality of a fabric to be made from a given yarn. At least two yarn characteristics (1) of the given yam are determined. A fabric-quality index (3) is calculated for the given yarn from the at least two yarn characteristics (1) and from at least one fabric characteristic (2) of the fabric. The fabric-quality index (3) is a scalar with a value in the range between 1 and 5. Compared to the known fabric-simulation methods, the method is simple and yields a quantitative result in form of the fabric-quality index (3).

Description

PREDICTION OF THE QUALITY OF A FABRIC
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention lies in the field of textile quality control It relates to a method for predicting the quality of a fabric to be made from a given yarn, according to the preamble of the first patent claim.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PRIOR ART
Methods for simulating the appearance of a fabric to be made from a given yarn are known, for instance, from the publications US-5,671 ,061 A, WO-97/31262 Al, WO-98/16823 Al, US-6,928,335 Bl and EP-1 '006'225 A2. They comprise the steps of measuring at least one parameter of the given yam, inputting the measurement results into a computer, calculating therefrom the appearance of the fabric and representing the calculated appearance as a simulation on an output peripheral. WO-2013/185248 Al discloses a method and device for comparing the qualities of at least two yarns. Measured values of at least one property of the yams are detected along the longitudinal directions of the yarns. Values of at least two parameters of the yams are determined from the measured values. A yarn-quality index is calculated from the values of the at least two parameters for each of the yarns. The yam-quality indices are
represented in a table, for example. Such a representation allows the qualities of the yarns to be compared in a simple manner.
The paper L. Li, G. Jia, W. Zhou, "Effect of yam properties on the pilling of cashmere knitted fabric", Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 17, No. 6, 2009, pp. 76-79, investigates the relationship between pilling rates and yarn properties by using optimal scaling regression analysis. The paper R. Beltran, L. Wang, X. Wang, "Predicting the pilling propensity of fabrics through artificial neural network modeling", Textile Research Journal, Vol. 75, No. 7, 2005, pp. 557-561 , uses artificial neural networks to model the multi-linear relationships between fiber, yarn and fabric properties and their effect on the pilling propensity of pure wool knitted fabrics.
The paper V. Havas, K. Efdody-Nemeth, "Yarn parameters influencing the knittability of high-grade spun yarns", Periodica Polytechnica Mechanical Engineering, Vol. 27, No. 4, 1983, pp. 223-245, deals with the properties of high-grade spun yarns most influencing the processibility on circular knitting machines.
The Application Report„USTER® LABORATORY SYSTEMS. Description of all quality parameters measured by Uster Technologies fiber and yarn testing equipment'", SE-562, Uster Technologies AG, Version 4, 2014, lists more than 300 yarn parameters that can be measured, including their units and descriptions. The yam parameters referred to in the present document relate thereto, unless otherwise noted.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
It is an object of the invention to indicate a further method for predicting the quality of a fabric to be made from a given yarn. Compared to the known fabric-simulation methods, the method shall be simple and yield a quantitative result. These and other objects are solved by the method defined in the first patent claim.
Advantageous embodiments are indicated in the dependent claims.
The method according to the invention is for predicting the quality of a fabric to be made from a given yam. At least two yarn characteristics of the given yam are determined, A fabric-quality index is calculated for the given yarn from the at least two yarn
characteristics and from at least one fabric characteristic of the fabric. The fabric-quality index is a scalar with a value in the range between 1 and 5. The at least one fabric characteristic preferably relates to a production method of the fabric. The fabric is, e.g., a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a warp-knitted fabric.
The at least two yarn characteristics can be determined by measuring measurement values of at least one property of the given yam and determining from the measurement values parameter values of at least two parameters of the given yam as the at least two yam characteristics.
The fabric-quality index relates, e.g., to an appearance property of the fabric, to a pilling property of the fabric or to a breaking property of the given yarn during production of the fabric.
In one embodiment, the fabric-quality index relates to an appearance property of the fabric and the calculation of the fabric-quality index takes into account parameter values of at least two yam parameters from the following set of parameters: mass variation, thick places, thin places, neps, hairiness, hairiness variation, diameter, diameter variation, shape, density, trash, twist.
In another embodiment, the fabric-quality index relates to a pilling property of the fabric and the calculation of the fabric-quality index takes into account parameter values of at least two yam parameters from the following set of parameters: hairiness, hairiness variation, twist.
In still another embodiment, the fabric-quality index relates to a breaking property of the given yam during production of the fabric and the calculation of the fabric-quality index takes into account parameter values of at least two yam parameters from the following set of parameters: mass variation, thick places, thin places, hairiness, hairiness variation, trash, breaking force, breaking elongation, twist. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
The invention is now explained in closer detail by references to the attached drawing. The drawing shows a block diagram of the method according to the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
Figure 1 shows a block diagram of the method according to the invention.
At least two yarn characteristics 1 of a given yarn are determined. This is preferably achieved by measuring measurement values of at least one property of the given yarn and determining from the measurement values parameter values of at least two parameters of the given yarn. Instruments for measuring values of a yam property and determining therefrom yarn parameters are known. The laboratory instruments listed in the Application Report„USTER® LABORATORY SYSTEMS. Description of all quality parameters measured by Uster Technologies fiber and yam testing equipment", SE-562, Uster
Technologies AG, Version 4, 2014, are preferably used for this purpose, for instance the USTER® TESTER yarn tester, the USTER® TENSORAPID yam tensile tester or the USTER® ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER. Alternatively or additionally, online yam-monitoring instruments such as the USTER® QUANTUM yam clearer or other instruments can be used.
At least one fabric characteristic 2 of the fabric, the quality of which shall be determined, is needed as an input for the method according to the invention. The at least one fabric characteristic 2 can relate to a production method of the fabric. The fabric characteristic 2 can consist of the information that the fabric is a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a warp- knitted fabric.
A fabric-quality index 3 is calculated for the given yarn from the at least two yam characteristics 1 and from at least one fabric characteristic 2. The fabric-quality index 3 is a scalar with a value in the range between 1 and 5. As needed, the index values can be rounded to the next integer or to the next half-integer. In the following, three examples of fabric-quality indices 3 are given for carded, ring-spun yarn made of 100 % cotton. The fabric-quality indices 3 are scaled so as to lie in the range between 1 , meaning a poor fabric quality, and 5, meaning an excellent fabric quality. If a formula yields a value smaller than 1 , then the value shall be rounded up to 1 , and if a formula yields a value larger than 5, then the value shall be rounded down to 5.
The following yarn parameters are entered into the equations:
Figure imgf000006_0002
Further details and explanations with regard to the yarn parameters are given in the Application Report„USTER® LABORATORY SYSTEMS. Description of all quality parameters measured by lister Technologies fiber and yarn testing equipment", SE-562, Uster Technologies AG, Version 4, 2014. The "log" function used in the equations designates the logarithm to base 10.
1. Fabric appearance
A fabric-appearance index U relates to an appearance property of the fabric, (a) Woven fabric
Figure imgf000006_0001
For example, a yam with the parameters CVm = 10.1 %, Tk = 70/km, Tn = 4/kirt, N = 50/km, Tr = 15/km, H = 5, CVH = 2 %, D - 0.53 g/cm3, Tm - 1300/m has an appearance index of IA = 3.7. The result can be rounded to the next integer: IA = 4, which indicates a good fabric appearance.
(b) Knitted fabric
Figure imgf000007_0001
(c) Warp-knitted fabric
Figure imgf000007_0002
2. Fabric pilling
A fabric-pilling index Ip relates to a pilling property of the fabric.
(a) Woven fabric
Figure imgf000007_0003
(b) Knitted fabric
Figure imgf000007_0004
(c) Warp-knitted fabric
Figure imgf000007_0005
3. Yarn breakage
A yarn-breakage index IB relates to a breakage property of the weft yarn during weaving.
Figure imgf000008_0001
The person skilled in the art will be able to derive further variants with knowledge of the invention which shall also belong to the subject matter of the present invention.
LIST OF REFERENCE NUMERALS 1 Yarn characteristics
2 Fabric characteristic 3 Fabric-quality index

Claims

CLAIMS 1. A method for predicting the quality of a fabric to be made from a given yarn,
wherein
at least two yam characteristics (1) of the given yam are determined,
characterized in that
a fabric-quality index (3) is calculated for the given yarn from the at least two yarn characteristics (1 ) and from at least one fabric characteristic (2) of the fabric, wherein the fabric-quality index (3) is a scalar with a value in the range between 1 and 5.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one fabric characteristic (1) relates to a production method of the fabric.
3. The method according to claim 2, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a warp-knitted fabric.
4. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the at least two yam characteristics (1 ) are determined by measuring measurement values of at least one property of the given yarn and determining from the measurement values parameter values of at least two parameters of the given yarn as the at least two yarn characteristics (1 ).
5. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fabric-quality index (3) relates to an appearance property of the fabric, to a pilling property of the fabric or to a breaking property of the given yarn during production of the fabric.
6. The method according to claims 4 and 5, wherein the fabric-quality index (3) relates to an appearance property of the fabric and the calculation of the fabric-quality index (3) takes into account parameter values of at least two yarn parameters from the following set of parameters: mass variation, thick places, thin places, neps, hairiness, hairiness variation, diameter, diameter variation, shape, density, trash, twist.
7. The method according to claims 3 and 6, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric and the fabric-quality index (3) is calculated according to the following formula:
Figure imgf000011_0001
8. The method according to claims 3 and 6, wherein the fabric is a knitted fabric and the fabric-quality index (3) is calculated according to the following formula:
Figure imgf000011_0002
9. The method according to claims 3 and 6, wherein the fabric is a warp-knitted fabric and the fabric-quality index (3) is calculated according to the following formula:
Figure imgf000011_0003
10. The method according to claims 4 and 5, wherein the fabric-quality index (3) relates to a pilling property of the fabric and the calculation of the fabric-quality index (3) takes into account parameter values of at least two yarn parameters from the following set of parameters: hairiness, hairiness variation, twist.
1 1 . The method according to claims 3 and 10, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric and the fabric-quality index (3) is calculated according to the following formula:
Figure imgf000011_0004
12. The method according to claims 3 and 10, wherein the fabric is a knitted fabric and the fabric-quality index (3) is calculated according to the following formula:
Figure imgf000011_0005
13. The method according to claims 3 and 10, wherein the fabric is a warp-knitted fabric and the fabric-quality index (3) is calculated according to the following formula:
Figure imgf000011_0006
14. The method according to claims 4 and 5, wherein the fabric-quality index (3) relates to a breaking property of the given yam during production of the fabric and the calculation of the fabric-quality index (3) takes into account parameter values of at least two yarn parameters from the following set of parameters: mass variation, thick places, thin places, hairiness, hairiness variation, trash, breaking force, breaking elongation, twist.
15. The method according to claims 3 and 14, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric and the fabric-quality index (3) is calculated according to the following formula:
Figure imgf000012_0001
PCT/CH2016/000117 2015-09-10 2016-09-09 Prediction of the quality of a fabric WO2017041193A1 (en)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1997031262A1 (en) 1996-02-21 1997-08-28 Lawson-Hemphill, Incorporated System and method for electronically evaluating predicted fabric qualities
US5671061A (en) 1992-06-18 1997-09-23 Zellweger Luwa Ag Method and apparatus for assessing the effect of yarn faults on woven or knitted fabrics
WO1998016823A1 (en) 1996-10-15 1998-04-23 Cis Graphik Und Bildverarbeitung Gmbh Yarn and fabric simulation system
EP1006225A2 (en) 1998-12-02 2000-06-07 W. SCHLAFHORST AG & CO. Method and device for evaluating the effect of yarn characteristics on the looks of textile surfaces
US6928335B1 (en) 1997-05-02 2005-08-09 Dieter Zweigle Device for optimizing fabrics based on measured thread data and optimization method
WO2013185248A1 (en) 2012-06-11 2013-12-19 Uster Technologies Ag Comparing the quality of elongate textile samples

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5671061A (en) 1992-06-18 1997-09-23 Zellweger Luwa Ag Method and apparatus for assessing the effect of yarn faults on woven or knitted fabrics
WO1997031262A1 (en) 1996-02-21 1997-08-28 Lawson-Hemphill, Incorporated System and method for electronically evaluating predicted fabric qualities
WO1998016823A1 (en) 1996-10-15 1998-04-23 Cis Graphik Und Bildverarbeitung Gmbh Yarn and fabric simulation system
US6928335B1 (en) 1997-05-02 2005-08-09 Dieter Zweigle Device for optimizing fabrics based on measured thread data and optimization method
EP1006225A2 (en) 1998-12-02 2000-06-07 W. SCHLAFHORST AG & CO. Method and device for evaluating the effect of yarn characteristics on the looks of textile surfaces
WO2013185248A1 (en) 2012-06-11 2013-12-19 Uster Technologies Ag Comparing the quality of elongate textile samples

Non-Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
BELTRAN RAFAEL, WANG LIJING, WANG XUNGAI: "Predicting the Pilling Propensity of Fabrics through Artificial Neural Network Modeling", TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL, vol. 75, no. 7, July 2005 (2005-07-01), pages 557 - 561, XP002753166, DOI: 10.1177/0040517505056872 *
CARVALHO VITOR, CONÇALVES NUNO, SOARES FILOMENA, VASCONCELOS ROSA, BELSLEY MICHAEL: "Yarn Parameterization and Fabrics Prediction Using Image Processing", TEXTILES AND LIGHT INDUSTRIAL SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, vol. 2, no. 1, January 2013 (2013-01-01), pages 6 - 12, XP002753168 *
ERTUGRUL S. AND UCAR N.: "Predicting Bursting Strength of Cotton Plain Knitted Fabrics Using Intelligent Techniques", TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL, vol. 70, no. 10, October 2000 (2000-10-01), pages 845 - 851, XP002764147, DOI: 10.1177/004051750007001001 *
HAVAS V., ERDÖDY-NÉMETH K.: "Yarn parameters influencing the knittability of high-grade spun yarns", PERIODICA POLYTECHNICA MECHANICAL ENGINEERING, vol. 27, no. 4, 1983, pages 223 - 245, XP002753167 *
L. LI; G. JIA; W. ZHOU: "Effect of yam properties on the pilling of cashmere knitted fabric", FIBRES & TEXTILES IN EASTERN EUROPE, vol. 17, no. 6, 2009, pages 76 - 79, XP002753165
LONG LI, GUIQIN JIA, WEI ZHOU: "Effect of Yarn Properties on the Pilling of Cashmere Knitted Fabric", FIBRES & TEXTILES IN EASTERN EUROPE, vol. 17, no. 6, June 2009 (2009-06-01), pages 76 - 79, XP002753165 *
R. BELTRAN; L. WANG; X. WANG: "Predicting the pilling propensity of fabrics through artificial neural network modeling", TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL, vol. 75, no. 7, 2005, pages 557 - 561, XP002753166, DOI: doi:10.1177/0040517505056872
V. HAVAS; K. EFDODY-NEMETH: "Yarn parameters influencing the knittability of high-grade spun yarns", PERIODICA POLYTECHNICA MECHANICAL ENGINEERING, vol. 27, no. 4, 1983, pages 223 - 245, XP002753167

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