WO2015181716A1 - Method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric and fabric obtained with the method - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric and fabric obtained with the method Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015181716A1
WO2015181716A1 PCT/IB2015/053923 IB2015053923W WO2015181716A1 WO 2015181716 A1 WO2015181716 A1 WO 2015181716A1 IB 2015053923 W IB2015053923 W IB 2015053923W WO 2015181716 A1 WO2015181716 A1 WO 2015181716A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
knitting
feed
region
needles
knit
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2015/053923
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Ettore Lonati
Fausto Lonati
Andrea LONATI
Original Assignee
Santoni S.P.A.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Santoni S.P.A. filed Critical Santoni S.P.A.
Publication of WO2015181716A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015181716A1/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113—One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric with knitting with a double border closed transversely at at least one of its ends or at an intermediate region thereof with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion, and to a fabric obtained with the method.
  • knitting which allows to obtain, in the knitted item, a double border arranged, for example, at one end of the item acting as a hem, or arranged in an intermediate region of the item with a merely aesthetic purpose.
  • a plurality of double borders can be also provided which are mutually spaced along the extension of the knitted item.
  • Double borders obtained by using only needles, i.e., by excluding the use of pushers, hooks or others, are provided on knitting machines both of the rectilinear type and of the circular type by performing, in a step of the production of the item, a selection of the needles so as to move to knit and form knitting, at a feed or drop of the machine, only part of the needles of the machine, alternated with needles that remain inactive at said feed and hold, in their tip or head, the last loop of knitting formed in the preceding knitting step. Subsequently, all the needles are moved to knit at said feed.
  • Double borders provided with methods of the known type have open longitudinal ends, if they are provided by using the needles arranged in a sector of the cylinder of circular machines or of the front of rectilinear machines, or are closed onto themselves when they are provided by using all the needles of the cylinder of circular knitting machines.
  • the aim of the present invention is to satisfy this need by devising a method that allows to produce a weft knit fabric with knitting with a double border closed transversely at at least one of its ends or at an intermediate region thereof with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion.
  • an object of the invention is to devise a method that is simple to perform and can be performed on modern knitting machines of the known type, provided with a needle holder that can be actuated with a reciprocating motion with respect to one or more feeds or drops, using the needle selection possibilities offered by such machines.
  • a method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric with knitting with a double border closed transversely at at least one of its ends or at an intermediate region thereof with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion consisting in:
  • said needle holder having a weft knitting machine with at least one feed or drop and with a needle holder that supports a plurality of needles that can be actuated to pick up at least one yarn dispensed by said feed and to form knitting;
  • said needle holder being movable with respect to said feed along a trajectory and said feed being arranged proximate to said trajectory;
  • said needle holder being actuatable with respect to said feed along said trajectory with a reciprocating motion, i.e., along two mutually opposite directions of motion, respectively a forward motion and a return motion, in order to move the needles so that they face in succession said feed both in the forward motion and in the return motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed;
  • said central knitting step comprising:
  • Figure 1 is the knitting pattern of a portion of fabric, seen from the reverse side, manufactured with the method according to the invention
  • Figure 2 is an enlarged-scale view of a detail of a portion of fabric, seen from the reverse side, manufactured with the method according to the invention and deriving from the manufacturing steps indicated in the frame X of the pattern of Figure 1 ;
  • Figure 3 is a schematic perspective view of a portion of a knit fabric obtained with the method according to the invention.
  • the method according to the invention is performed by using a weft knitting machine with at least one feed or drop and with a needle holder that supports a plurality of needles that can be actuated in order to pick up at least one yarn dispensed by said feed or by other feeds, if present, in order to form knitting.
  • the needle holder can be actuated with respect to the cited feed along a trajectory that is rectilinear in the case of a rectilinear machine or is circular in the case of a circular machine.
  • the needle holder can be actuated with respect to the feed being considered along this trajectory with a reciprocating motion, i.e., according to two mutually opposite directions of motion, respectively a forward motion and a return motion, so as to move the needles so that they face in succession the feed both in the forward motion and in the return motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed.
  • a reciprocating motion i.e., according to two mutually opposite directions of motion, respectively a forward motion and a return motion, so as to move the needles so that they face in succession the feed both in the forward motion and in the return motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed.
  • At least one sector that accommodates needles that can be actuated at the feed to form knitting is selected in the needle holder.
  • the machine is constituted by a circular knitting machine and therefore the needle holder is constituted by the needle cylinder of the machine, which is arranged so that its axis is vertical and can be actuated with a rotary motion about its own axis with respect to the feed that is used to perform the method according to the invention.
  • the needle holder which is constituted by the needle cylinder, traces a circular trajectory about its own axis and the feed faces laterally the needle cylinder and is arranged proximate to the trajectory described by the needle cylinder during its rotation so as to provide the yarn or yarns to the needles that are moved to knit at said feed and are actuated to form knitting.
  • the needle cylinder can be actuated, in a per se known manner, with a reciprocating rotary motion about its own axis so as to form knitting both in the forward motion and in the return motion.
  • Figure 1 shows the knitting pattern of a portion of knit fabric manufactured with the method according to the invention by using the needles arranged in a sector A of the needle holder.
  • the sector A has been indicated on the pattern of Figure 1 , although it actually illustrates the actuation modes of the needles and not the needle holder per se.
  • the method according to the invention comprises an initial knitting step F 1 , in which the needles of the sector A are moved to knit at the cited feed in order to form knitting.
  • a central knitting step FC is then performed in which the needle holder, i.e., the needle cylinder, is actuated with respect to the feed, with a reciprocating rotary motion about its own axis, making the sector A transit cyclically in front of the feed at each forward and return motion of the needle cylinder.
  • the needles of the sector A are divided, in a per se known manner, by means of a preset selection, into active needles and inactive needles, which are mutually alternated.
  • the active needles are needles that, during all the central knitting step FC or only in at least one fraction of this central knitting step FC, are moved to knit at the feed being considered, while the inactive needles remain excluded from knitting at the feed being considered during the entire duration of the central knitting step FC, retaining, in their tip or head, the last loop of knitting formed during the initial knitting step FI.
  • the central knitting step FC comprises a first fraction FC 1 , in which the active needles located in a first region Al of the sector A are actuated to knit at the feed being considered and form knitting, and the active needles located in at least one second region A2 of the sector A, which is contiguous or adjacent to the first region Al , are moved progressively to knit at the feed starting from the end of the second region A2 that borders the first region Al and increasing progressively the number of active needles of the second region A2 that are moved to knit at the feed at each cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed being considered.
  • the central knitting step FC comprises a second fraction FC2, in which the active needles located in the first region Al of the sector A are actuated to knit at the feed being considered and form knitting as in the first fraction FC 1 of the central knitting step FC and the active needles located in the second region A2 of the sector A are excluded progressively from knitting at the feed, starting from the end of the second region A2 that is opposite with respect to the first region Al and decreasing progressively the number of active needles of the second region A2 that are moved to knit at the feed at each cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed being considered.
  • a final knitting step FF is performed, in which knitting with all the needles of the sector A is resumed at the feed being considered.
  • the increase and decrease of the number of needles of the second region A2 of the sector A that are moved to knit at the feed being considered during the central knitting step FC are performed respecting the performed needle selection, i.e., the increase or decrease of the number of needles moved to knit at the feed involves only the active needles and not also the inactive needles.
  • a third region A3 contiguous or adjacent to the first region Al and located on the opposite side with respect to the second region A2, is identified inside the sector A of the needle holder used.
  • the active needles located in this third region A3 are moved progressively to knit at the feed being considered starting from the end of the third region A3 that is adjacent to the first region Al and increasing progressively the number of active needles of the third region A3 that are moved to knit at the feed at each cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed.
  • the active needles of the third region A3 of the sector A are excluded progressively from knitting at the feed starting from the end of the third region A3 that is opposite with respect to the first region Al and decreasing progressively the number of active needles of the third region A3 that are moved to knit at the feed at each cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the needle holder with respect to the feed, retaining in their tip or head the last formed loop of knitting.
  • the increase and decrease of the number of needles of the third region A3 of the sector A that are moved to knit at the feed being considered during the central knitting step FC are performed respecting the performed needle selection, i.e., the increase or decrease of the number of needles moved to knit at the feed involves only the active needles and not also the inactive needles.
  • the example illustrated in the figures refers to the execution of a double border that is closed at both of its ends and is manufactured by using a sector A of the needle cylinder of a circular knitting machine, divided into three regions, respectively a first region Al, a second region A2 and a third region A3.
  • each vertical column of squares refers to one needle and each square represents an actuation mode of a needle.
  • each vertical column of squares refers to one needle and each square represents an actuation mode of a needle.
  • only the vertical columns that correspond to the needles that manufacture the portion of knit fabric shown in Figure 2 have been numbered, using the numerals from 1 to 10.
  • a white square indicates that the corresponding needle is not moved to knit at the feed.
  • a dark gray square indicates that the corresponding needle is moved to knit at the feed during the initial knitting step FI.
  • a light gray square indicates that the corresponding needle is moved to knit at the feed during the central knitting step FC.
  • a square with a central dot indicates that the corresponding needle is moved to knit at the feed during the final knitting step FF.
  • the squares with a diagonal indicate that the needles located outside the sector A are not used to perform the method according to the invention. Obviously these needles can be used for other knitting.
  • the central knitting step FC is performed by selecting the needles of the sector A so as to have, by performing a needle selection in a per se known manner, active needles alternated with inactive needles at the feed being considered.
  • active needles designates those needles of the sector A that are moved to knit in order to form knitting at the feed being considered throughout the central knitting step FC or at least during a fraction of such central knitting step FC.
  • inactive needles designates those needles of the sector A that are excluded from knitting at the feed being considered and therefore do not form knitting throughout the central knitting step FC, retaining in their tip or head the last loop of knitting formed during the initial knitting step FI.
  • Needle selection can be a selection of the 1X1 type, i.e., such as to have, for every two adjacent needles, one active needle and one inactive needle, as in the case shown, or a selection of the 1X2 type, i.e., such as to have, for every three adjacent needles, one active needle and two inactive needles, or another selection of a known type that can be used for manufacturing a double border.
  • the needle holder is actuated with reciprocating motion with respect to the feed, i.e., with repeated cycles, each composed of a forward motion and a return motion.
  • the active needles of the first region Al of the sector A are actuated so as to pick up the yarn or yarns dispensed by the feed and form knitting.
  • the active needles of the second region A2 of the sector A and the active needles of the third region A3 of the sector A are progressively moved to knit at the feed, meaning that the number of these needles moved to knit at the feed is increased progressively starting from the needles that are nearest to the first region Al of the sector A at each cycle of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, using the needle selection devices with which knitting machines of the known type are provided.
  • the active needles of the first region Al of the sector A are moved to knit at the feed to form knitting, as in the first fraction FC1 of the central knitting step FC.
  • the active needles arranged in the second region A2 and in the third region A3 of the sector A are excluded progressively from knitting at the feed being considered, meaning that the number of these needles moved to knit at the feed is decreased progressively starting from the needles that are farthest from the first region Al of the sector A at each cycle of reciprocating motion of the needle holder, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, using the needle selection devices with which knitting machines of the known type are provided.
  • the increase or decrease of the active needles of the second region A2 and/or of the third region A3 of the sector A can be increased or decreased at each cycle of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder, as shown, or after a preset number of cycles according to the shape that one wishes to have for the closing of the corresponding end of the double border.
  • the double border may be closed, as explained above, only at one of its ends, or in an intermediate region thereof, by varying appropriately the number and arrangement of the regions of the sector A.
  • Figure 3 shows the knit fabric that is obtained with the method according the invention.
  • the portion designated by P4 is the portion knitted in the final knitting step FF of the method.
  • the portion PI is the portion, composed of very few rows of knitting (the dark gray ones in Figure 2), knitted during the initial knitting step FI and joined to the first rows of knitting (the dotted ones in Figure 2) of the portion P4 knitted during the final knitting step FF.
  • the double border 50 is manufactured during the central knitting step FC and is composed of the two overlapping flaps P2, P3 (constituted by the white and light gray rows of knitting of Figure 2).
  • the double border 50 is closed at one or both of its ends or in an intermediate region of its extension along a direction that is transverse with respect to the extension of the rows of knitting.
  • Figure 3 due to space requirements, shows only a portion of the knit fabric with one of the ends of the double border 50 closed, as described.
  • the method according to the invention fully achieves the intended aim, since it allows to manufacture, with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion, a weft knit fabric with a double border that is closed transversely to the direction along which the rows of knitting are extended, at one or both of its ends or in an intermediate region of its longitudinal extension.
  • the materials used, as well as the dimensions, may be any according to requirements and to the state of the art.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)

Abstract

A method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric with knitting with a double border closed transversely at least one of its ends or at an intermediate region thereof with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion and a fabric obtained with the method. The method comprises: an initial knitting step (F1), in which the needles arranged in a sector (A) of the needle holder are moved to knit at a feed or drop in order to form knitting; a central knitting step (FC), in which the needle holder is actuated with a reciprocating motion with respect to the feed and in which the needles of the sector (A) are divided, according to a preset selection, into active needles, which can be moved to knit at the feed, alternated with inactive needles, which remain excluded from knitting at the feed during the central knitting step (FC), retaining in their tip or head the last loop of knitting formed during the initial knitting step (F1). The central knitting step (FC) comprises: a first fraction (FC1), in which the active needles located in a first region (A1) of the sector (A) are actuated to knit at the feed and form knitting and the active needles located in at least one second region (A2) of the sector (A), which is contiguous or adjacent to the first region (A1), are moved progressively to knit at the feed starting from the end of the second region (A2) that borders the first region (A1) and increasing progressively the number of active needles of the second region (A2) moved to knit at the feed at each at least one cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed; a second fraction (FC2) of the central knitting step (FC), in which the active needles located in the first region (A1) of the sector (A) are actuated to knit at the feed and form knitting as in the first fraction (FC1) of the central knitting step (FC) and the active needles located in the second region (A2) of the sector (A) are excluded progressively from knitting at the feed, starting from the end of the second region (A2) that lies opposite the first region (A1) and decreasing progressively the number of active needles of the second region (A2) that are moved to knit at the feed at each at least one cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of said needle holder with respect to the feed, retaining in their tip or head the last formed loop of knitting. Then, in a final knitting step (FF), knitting with all the needles of the sector (A) is resumed.

Description

METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A WEFT KNIT FABRIC AND FABRIC OBTAINED WITH THE METHOD
The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric with knitting with a double border closed transversely at at least one of its ends or at an intermediate region thereof with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion, and to a fabric obtained with the method.
In the knitting sector, knitting is known which allows to obtain, in the knitted item, a double border arranged, for example, at one end of the item acting as a hem, or arranged in an intermediate region of the item with a merely aesthetic purpose. For this last purpose, a plurality of double borders can be also provided which are mutually spaced along the extension of the knitted item.
Double borders obtained by using only needles, i.e., by excluding the use of pushers, hooks or others, are provided on knitting machines both of the rectilinear type and of the circular type by performing, in a step of the production of the item, a selection of the needles so as to move to knit and form knitting, at a feed or drop of the machine, only part of the needles of the machine, alternated with needles that remain inactive at said feed and hold, in their tip or head, the last loop of knitting formed in the preceding knitting step. Subsequently, all the needles are moved to knit at said feed. In this manner the rows of knitting formed by the needles that have always knitted constitute a surplus or excess of knitting with respect to the knitting produced by the needles that, for a certain number of rows of knitting, have been excluded from knitting. This excess knitting, due to the knitting process itself, is folded back onto itself and joined longitudinally to the remaining part of the item, constituting indeed a double border.
Double borders provided with methods of the known type have open longitudinal ends, if they are provided by using the needles arranged in a sector of the cylinder of circular machines or of the front of rectilinear machines, or are closed onto themselves when they are provided by using all the needles of the cylinder of circular knitting machines.
The techniques currently used to provide double borders do not offer the possibility to obtain knitted items with double borders closed at one or both longitudinal ends.
This possibility is a deeply felt need in the field of the production of knitted items, because the possibility to have a double border closed at one of its ends might be used to insert, in the double border, material, such as for example paddings, or accessories without the need to perform additional sewing, and the possibility to have a double border closed at both of its ends might be used to provide frills for technical or merely aesthetic purposes.
The aim of the present invention is to satisfy this need by devising a method that allows to produce a weft knit fabric with knitting with a double border closed transversely at at least one of its ends or at an intermediate region thereof with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion.
Within this aim, an object of the invention is to devise a method that is simple to perform and can be performed on modern knitting machines of the known type, provided with a needle holder that can be actuated with a reciprocating motion with respect to one or more feeds or drops, using the needle selection possibilities offered by such machines.
This aim and these and other objects that will become better apparent hereinafter are achieved by a method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric with knitting with a double border closed transversely at at least one of its ends or at an intermediate region thereof with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion, consisting in:
- having a weft knitting machine with at least one feed or drop and with a needle holder that supports a plurality of needles that can be actuated to pick up at least one yarn dispensed by said feed and to form knitting; said needle holder being movable with respect to said feed along a trajectory and said feed being arranged proximate to said trajectory; said needle holder being actuatable with respect to said feed along said trajectory with a reciprocating motion, i.e., along two mutually opposite directions of motion, respectively a forward motion and a return motion, in order to move the needles so that they face in succession said feed both in the forward motion and in the return motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed; at said feed or drop there being at least one yarn finger adapted to dispense at least one yarn;
- identifying, in said needle holder, at least one sector that accommodates corresponding needles that can be actuated at said feed to pick up said at least one yarn dispensed by said feed and form knitting;
characterized in that it comprises:
- an initial knitting step, in which the needles of said sector are moved to knit at said feed in order to form knitting;
- a central knitting step, in which said needle holder is actuated with a reciprocating motion with respect to said feed and in which the needles of said sector are divided, according to a preset selection, into active needles, which can be moved to knit at said feed, alternated with inactive needles, which remain excluded from knitting at said feed during said central knitting step, retaining in their tip or head the last loop of knitting formed during said initial knitting step;
said central knitting step comprising:
- a first fraction of the central knitting step, in which the active needles located in a first region of said sector are actuated to knit at said feed and form knitting and the active needles located in at least one second region of said sector, which is contiguous or adjacent to said first region, are moved progressively to knit at said feed starting from the end of said second region that borders said first region and increasing progressively the number of active needles of said second region moved to knit at said feed at each at least one cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed;
- a second fraction of the central knitting step, in which the active needles located in said first region of said sector are actuated to knit at said feed and form knitting as in said first fraction of the central knitting step and the active needles located in said second region of said sector are excluded progressively from knitting at said feed, starting from the end of said second region that lies opposite said first region and decreasing progressively the number of active needles of said second region that are moved to knit at said feed at each at least one cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed, retaining in their tip or head the last formed loop of knitting;
- a final knitting step, in which knitting with all the needles of said sector is resumed.
Further characteristics and advantages of the present invention will become better apparent from the description of a preferred but not exclusive embodiment of the method according to the invention, illustrated by way of non-limiting example in the accompanying drawings, wherein:
Figure 1 is the knitting pattern of a portion of fabric, seen from the reverse side, manufactured with the method according to the invention;
Figure 2 is an enlarged-scale view of a detail of a portion of fabric, seen from the reverse side, manufactured with the method according to the invention and deriving from the manufacturing steps indicated in the frame X of the pattern of Figure 1 ;
Figure 3 is a schematic perspective view of a portion of a knit fabric obtained with the method according to the invention.
With reference to the figures, the method according to the invention is performed by using a weft knitting machine with at least one feed or drop and with a needle holder that supports a plurality of needles that can be actuated in order to pick up at least one yarn dispensed by said feed or by other feeds, if present, in order to form knitting. The needle holder can be actuated with respect to the cited feed along a trajectory that is rectilinear in the case of a rectilinear machine or is circular in the case of a circular machine.
The needle holder can be actuated with respect to the feed being considered along this trajectory with a reciprocating motion, i.e., according to two mutually opposite directions of motion, respectively a forward motion and a return motion, so as to move the needles so that they face in succession the feed both in the forward motion and in the return motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed.
At the feed there is at least one yarn fmger that is adapted to dispense, in a per se known manner, at least one yarn.
At least one sector that accommodates needles that can be actuated at the feed to form knitting is selected in the needle holder.
Preferably, the machine is constituted by a circular knitting machine and therefore the needle holder is constituted by the needle cylinder of the machine, which is arranged so that its axis is vertical and can be actuated with a rotary motion about its own axis with respect to the feed that is used to perform the method according to the invention.
In this case, the needle holder, which is constituted by the needle cylinder, traces a circular trajectory about its own axis and the feed faces laterally the needle cylinder and is arranged proximate to the trajectory described by the needle cylinder during its rotation so as to provide the yarn or yarns to the needles that are moved to knit at said feed and are actuated to form knitting.
The needle cylinder can be actuated, in a per se known manner, with a reciprocating rotary motion about its own axis so as to form knitting both in the forward motion and in the return motion.
Since this is a circular machine, the sector that accommodates the needles selected to knit at the feed is constituted by a portion of the lateral surface of the needle cylinder. Figure 1 shows the knitting pattern of a portion of knit fabric manufactured with the method according to the invention by using the needles arranged in a sector A of the needle holder. For the sake of simplicity and to better explain the method according to the invention, the sector A has been indicated on the pattern of Figure 1 , although it actually illustrates the actuation modes of the needles and not the needle holder per se.
The method according to the invention comprises an initial knitting step F 1 , in which the needles of the sector A are moved to knit at the cited feed in order to form knitting.
A central knitting step FC is then performed in which the needle holder, i.e., the needle cylinder, is actuated with respect to the feed, with a reciprocating rotary motion about its own axis, making the sector A transit cyclically in front of the feed at each forward and return motion of the needle cylinder. In the execution of this central knitting step FC of the method, the needles of the sector A are divided, in a per se known manner, by means of a preset selection, into active needles and inactive needles, which are mutually alternated. The active needles are needles that, during all the central knitting step FC or only in at least one fraction of this central knitting step FC, are moved to knit at the feed being considered, while the inactive needles remain excluded from knitting at the feed being considered during the entire duration of the central knitting step FC, retaining, in their tip or head, the last loop of knitting formed during the initial knitting step FI.
The central knitting step FC comprises a first fraction FC 1 , in which the active needles located in a first region Al of the sector A are actuated to knit at the feed being considered and form knitting, and the active needles located in at least one second region A2 of the sector A, which is contiguous or adjacent to the first region Al , are moved progressively to knit at the feed starting from the end of the second region A2 that borders the first region Al and increasing progressively the number of active needles of the second region A2 that are moved to knit at the feed at each cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed being considered.
The central knitting step FC comprises a second fraction FC2, in which the active needles located in the first region Al of the sector A are actuated to knit at the feed being considered and form knitting as in the first fraction FC 1 of the central knitting step FC and the active needles located in the second region A2 of the sector A are excluded progressively from knitting at the feed, starting from the end of the second region A2 that is opposite with respect to the first region Al and decreasing progressively the number of active needles of the second region A2 that are moved to knit at the feed at each cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed being considered.
Subsequently, a final knitting step FF is performed, in which knitting with all the needles of the sector A is resumed at the feed being considered.
Conveniently, the increase and decrease of the number of needles of the second region A2 of the sector A that are moved to knit at the feed being considered during the central knitting step FC are performed respecting the performed needle selection, i.e., the increase or decrease of the number of needles moved to knit at the feed involves only the active needles and not also the inactive needles.
In this manner, a double border is provided which is closed at one of its ends.
If a closed double border at both of its ends is to be performed, a third region A3, contiguous or adjacent to the first region Al and located on the opposite side with respect to the second region A2, is identified inside the sector A of the needle holder used. In this case, during the execution of the first fraction FC 1 of the central knitting step FC the active needles located in this third region A3 are moved progressively to knit at the feed being considered starting from the end of the third region A3 that is adjacent to the first region Al and increasing progressively the number of active needles of the third region A3 that are moved to knit at the feed at each cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed. During the execution of the second fraction FC2 of the central knitting step FC, the active needles of the third region A3 of the sector A are excluded progressively from knitting at the feed starting from the end of the third region A3 that is opposite with respect to the first region Al and decreasing progressively the number of active needles of the third region A3 that are moved to knit at the feed at each cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the needle holder with respect to the feed, retaining in their tip or head the last formed loop of knitting.
In this case also, the increase and decrease of the number of needles of the third region A3 of the sector A that are moved to knit at the feed being considered during the central knitting step FC are performed respecting the performed needle selection, i.e., the increase or decrease of the number of needles moved to knit at the feed involves only the active needles and not also the inactive needles.
The example illustrated in the figures refers to the execution of a double border that is closed at both of its ends and is manufactured by using a sector A of the needle cylinder of a circular knitting machine, divided into three regions, respectively a first region Al, a second region A2 and a third region A3.
In greater detail, in the knitting pattern illustrated in Figure 1 , each vertical column of squares refers to one needle and each square represents an actuation mode of a needle. For the sake of simplicity, only the vertical columns that correspond to the needles that manufacture the portion of knit fabric shown in Figure 2 have been numbered, using the numerals from 1 to 10.
A white square indicates that the corresponding needle is not moved to knit at the feed. A dark gray square indicates that the corresponding needle is moved to knit at the feed during the initial knitting step FI. A light gray square indicates that the corresponding needle is moved to knit at the feed during the central knitting step FC. A square with a central dot indicates that the corresponding needle is moved to knit at the feed during the final knitting step FF.
The representation of the squares related to the diversified actuation of needles in relation to the knitting step has been made to correlate the actuation of the needles with the portions of knit fabric represented in Figure 2, in which the dark gray loops of knitting B 1 are formed by means of the actuation of the needles indicated by the dark gray squares, the white loops of knitting B2 and the light gray loops of knitting B3 are formed by means of the actuation of the needles indicated by the light gray squares, the loops of knitting with dots B4 are formed by means of the actuation of the needles indicated by the squares with a central dot. In Figure 2, some loops of knitting are shown longer than other loops of knitting because this figure represents an ideal flat arrangement of the knit fabric, seen from the reverse side, in order to allow to view the various rows of knitting.
The squares with a diagonal indicate that the needles located outside the sector A are not used to perform the method according to the invention. Obviously these needles can be used for other knitting.
In greater detail, with reference to Figures 1 and 2, during the initial knitting step FI all the needles of the sector A are moved to knit at the feed being considered and form one or more rows of knitting in a per se known manner. In this initial knitting step, the rows of knitting composed of the dark gray loops B l in Figure 2 are provided.
Subsequently, the central knitting step FC is performed by selecting the needles of the sector A so as to have, by performing a needle selection in a per se known manner, active needles alternated with inactive needles at the feed being considered. The expression "active needles" designates those needles of the sector A that are moved to knit in order to form knitting at the feed being considered throughout the central knitting step FC or at least during a fraction of such central knitting step FC. The expression "inactive needles" designates those needles of the sector A that are excluded from knitting at the feed being considered and therefore do not form knitting throughout the central knitting step FC, retaining in their tip or head the last loop of knitting formed during the initial knitting step FI.
Needle selection can be a selection of the 1X1 type, i.e., such as to have, for every two adjacent needles, one active needle and one inactive needle, as in the case shown, or a selection of the 1X2 type, i.e., such as to have, for every three adjacent needles, one active needle and two inactive needles, or another selection of a known type that can be used for manufacturing a double border.
During the central knitting step FC, the needle holder is actuated with reciprocating motion with respect to the feed, i.e., with repeated cycles, each composed of a forward motion and a return motion.
In the first fraction FC1 of the central knitting step FC, the active needles of the first region Al of the sector A are actuated so as to pick up the yarn or yarns dispensed by the feed and form knitting.
In this first fraction FC1 of the central knitting step FC, the active needles of the second region A2 of the sector A and the active needles of the third region A3 of the sector A are progressively moved to knit at the feed, meaning that the number of these needles moved to knit at the feed is increased progressively starting from the needles that are nearest to the first region Al of the sector A at each cycle of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, using the needle selection devices with which knitting machines of the known type are provided. I I
During the first fraction FC1 of the central knitting step FC, the rows of knitting composed of white loops B2 of Figure 2 are performed.
In the second fraction FC2 of the central knitting step FC, the active needles of the first region Al of the sector A are moved to knit at the feed to form knitting, as in the first fraction FC1 of the central knitting step FC. The active needles arranged in the second region A2 and in the third region A3 of the sector A are excluded progressively from knitting at the feed being considered, meaning that the number of these needles moved to knit at the feed is decreased progressively starting from the needles that are farthest from the first region Al of the sector A at each cycle of reciprocating motion of the needle holder, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, using the needle selection devices with which knitting machines of the known type are provided.
It should be noted that the increase or decrease of the active needles of the second region A2 and/or of the third region A3 of the sector A can be increased or decreased at each cycle of the reciprocating motion of the needle holder, as shown, or after a preset number of cycles according to the shape that one wishes to have for the closing of the corresponding end of the double border.
During the second fraction FC2 of the central knitting step FC, the rows of knitting composed of light gray loops B3 in Figure 2 are performed. In this figure, these rows of knitting have been shown laterally offset with respect to the rows of knitting performed during the first fraction FC 1 of the central knitting step FC in order to make them visible. Actually, the light gray rows and the white rows, at the end of the execution of the double border, overlap due to the longitudinal coupling or closure of the double border performed in the final knitting step FF.
In the final knitting step FF, all the needles of the sector A are moved again to knit to form knitting at the feed being considered.
In this manner a double border is obtained in which the loops of knitting formed by the needles remained inactive during the central knitting step FC provide the longitudinal closure of the double border, as in double border knitting of the known type, while the loops of knitting formed by the needles belonging to the second region A2 and the third region A3 of the sector A provide, according to the present invention, the closure, transversely to the extension of the rows of knitting, of the two opposite ends of the double border.
Obviously, the double border may be closed, as explained above, only at one of its ends, or in an intermediate region thereof, by varying appropriately the number and arrangement of the regions of the sector A.
Figure 3 shows the knit fabric that is obtained with the method according the invention.
In this figure, the portion designated by P4 is the portion knitted in the final knitting step FF of the method. The portion PI is the portion, composed of very few rows of knitting (the dark gray ones in Figure 2), knitted during the initial knitting step FI and joined to the first rows of knitting (the dotted ones in Figure 2) of the portion P4 knitted during the final knitting step FF.
The double border 50 is manufactured during the central knitting step FC and is composed of the two overlapping flaps P2, P3 (constituted by the white and light gray rows of knitting of Figure 2). The double border 50 is closed at one or both of its ends or in an intermediate region of its extension along a direction that is transverse with respect to the extension of the rows of knitting. Figure 3, due to space requirements, shows only a portion of the knit fabric with one of the ends of the double border 50 closed, as described.
In practice it has been found that the method according to the invention fully achieves the intended aim, since it allows to manufacture, with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion, a weft knit fabric with a double border that is closed transversely to the direction along which the rows of knitting are extended, at one or both of its ends or in an intermediate region of its longitudinal extension.
The method thus conceived is susceptible of numerous modifications and variations, all of which are within the scope of the appended claims; all the details may further be replaced with other technically equivalent elements.
In practice, the materials used, as well as the dimensions, may be any according to requirements and to the state of the art.
The disclosures in Italian Patent Application no. MI2014A000966, from which this application claims priority, are incorporated herein by reference.
Where technical features mentioned in any claim are followed by reference numerals and/or signs, those reference numerals and/or signs have been included for the sole purpose of increasing the intelligibility of the claims and accordingly such reference numerals and/or signs do not have any limiting effect on the interpretation of each element identified by way of example by such reference numerals and/or signs.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric with knitting with a double border closed transversely at at least one of its ends or at an intermediate region thereof with a knitting machine for knitting with reciprocating motion, consisting in:
- having a weft knitting machine with at least one feed or drop and with a needle holder that supports a plurality of needles that can be actuated to pick up at least one yarn dispensed by said feed and to form knitting; said needle holder being movable with respect to said feed along a trajectory and said feed being arranged proximate to said trajectory; said needle holder being actuatable with respect to said feed along said trajectory with a reciprocating motion, i.e., along two mutually opposite directions of motion, respectively a forward motion and a return motion, in order to move the needles so that they face in succession said feed both in the forward motion and in the return motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed; at said feed or drop there being at least one yarn finger adapted to dispense at least one yarn;
- identifying, in said needle holder, at least one sector (A) that accommodates corresponding needles that can be actuated at said feed to pick up said at least one yarn dispensed by said feed and form knitting;
characterized in that it comprises:
- an initial knitting step (FI), in which the needles of said sector (A) are moved to knit at said feed in order to form knitting;
- a central knitting step (FC), in which said needle holder is actuated with a reciprocating motion with respect to said feed and in which the needles of said sector (A) are divided, according to a preset selection, into active needles, which can be moved to knit at said feed, alternated with inactive needles, which remain excluded from knitting at said feed during said central knitting step (FC), retaining in their tip or head the last loop of knitting formed during said initial knitting step (FI); said central knitting step (FC) comprising:
- a first fraction (FC 1) of the central knitting step (FC), in which the active needles located in a first region (Al) of said sector (A) are actuated to knit at said feed and form knitting and the active needles located in at least one second region (A2) of said sector (A), which is contiguous or adjacent to said first region (Al), are moved progressively to knit at said feed starting from the end of said second region (A2) that borders said first region (Al) and increasing progressively the number of active needles of said second region (A2) moved to knit at said feed at each at least one cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed;
- a second fraction (FC2) of the central knitting step (FC), in which the active needles located in said first region (Al) of said sector (A) are actuated to knit at said feed and form knitting as in said first fraction (FC 1) of the central knitting step (FC) and the active needles located in said second region (A2) of said sector (A) are excluded progressively from knitting at said feed, starting from the end of said second region (A2) that lies opposite said first region (Al) and decreasing progressively the number of active needles of said second region (A2) that are moved to knit at said feed at each at least one cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed, retaining in their tip or head the last formed loop of knitting;
- a final knitting step (FF), in which knitting with all the needles of said sector (A) is resumed.
2. The method according to claim 1 , characterized in that said sector
(A) comprises a third region (A3) that is contiguous or adjacent to said first region (Al) and is located on the opposite side with respect to said second region (A2); the active needles located in said third region (A3), during said first fraction (FC1) of the central knitting step (FC), being moved progressively to knit at said feed starting from the end of said third region (A3) that is adjacent to said first region (A l ) and increasing progressively the number of active needles of said third region (A3) that are moved to knit at said feed at each at least one cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed; the active needles located in said third region (A3) of said sector (A), during said second fraction (FC2) of the central knitting step (FC), being excluded progressively from knitting at said feed starting from the end of said third region (A3) that is opposite with respect to said first region (Al ) and decreasing progressively the number of active needles of said third region (A3) that are moved to knit at said feed at each at least one cycle, composed of a forward motion and a return motion, of the reciprocating motion of said needle holder with respect to said feed, retaining in their tip or head the last formed loop of knitting.
3. The method according to claim 1 , characterized in that said needle holder is constituted by a needle cylinder of a circular knitting machine, said sector being constituted by a portion of the lateral surface of the needle cylinder and said feed facing laterally the lateral surface of the needle cylinder.
4. A weft knit fabric having, in at least one portion thereof, a double border, characterized in that said double border (50) is closed, transversely to its extension, at at least one region thereof.
5. The weft knit fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that said double border (50) is closed, transversely to its extension, at an end thereof.
6. The weft knit fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that said double border (50) is closed, transversely to its extension, at both of its ends.
7. The weft knit fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that said double border (50) is closed, transversely to its extension, at an intermediate region of its extension.
PCT/IB2015/053923 2014-05-27 2015-05-26 Method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric and fabric obtained with the method WO2015181716A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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ITMI20140966 2014-05-27
ITMI2014A000966 2014-05-27

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001036729A1 (en) * 1999-11-15 2001-05-25 Franco Sciacca Method and apparatus for manufacturing three-dimensional knitwear and hosiery items and products obtained thereby
WO2002004726A1 (en) * 2000-07-10 2002-01-17 Franco Sciacca Method for producing tubular knitwear items and products obtained thereby
WO2005010259A1 (en) * 2003-07-03 2005-02-03 Santoni S.P.A. Method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001036729A1 (en) * 1999-11-15 2001-05-25 Franco Sciacca Method and apparatus for manufacturing three-dimensional knitwear and hosiery items and products obtained thereby
WO2002004726A1 (en) * 2000-07-10 2002-01-17 Franco Sciacca Method for producing tubular knitwear items and products obtained thereby
WO2005010259A1 (en) * 2003-07-03 2005-02-03 Santoni S.P.A. Method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine

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