WO2015180083A1 - Non-greasy moisturizing skin toner - Google Patents
Non-greasy moisturizing skin toner Download PDFInfo
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- WO2015180083A1 WO2015180083A1 PCT/CN2014/078750 CN2014078750W WO2015180083A1 WO 2015180083 A1 WO2015180083 A1 WO 2015180083A1 CN 2014078750 W CN2014078750 W CN 2014078750W WO 2015180083 A1 WO2015180083 A1 WO 2015180083A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
Definitions
- the present invention is directed to a skin toner.
- Toner also known as "clear lotion” is a low viscosity personal care composition. Toner is typically applied to skin after a facial or skin cleanser is used and before a skin moisturizer is used. The use of toner has long been deemed as a supplementary step in the skin care regimen to neutralize the elevated pH of the skin surface which is caused by the facial or skin cleanser, and thereby prepare the skin for better absorption of the moisturizer.
- one aspect of the invention provides a skin toner composition
- a skin toner composition comprising: (a) 0.005% to 2%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, alternatively from 0.01% to 0.1%, of a polysaccharide polymer by weight of the composition, wherein the polysaccharide polymer has a molecular weight greater than 750,000 Daltons, preferably greater than 1,000,000 Daltons; (b) 6% to 20%, preferably 7% to 15%, alternatively 8% to 10% of glycerin by weight of the composition; (c) 1% to 7%, preferably 2% to 6% of butylene glycol by weight of the composition; (d) 1% to 11%, preferably 2% to 10%, more preferably 4% to 8% pentylene glycol or a mixture
- Another aspect of the invention provides for a method of moisturizing skin comprising the step of applying a composition of the present invention to skin, preferably wherein the skin is facial skin or hand skin.
- a treatment regimen comprising the steps: cleansing skin; toning the cleansed skin with a composition of present invention, preferably wherein the skin is facial skin or hand skin; and optionally moisturizing the toned skin.
- the term "moisturization” and “hydration” are used herein interchangeably.
- the present invention comprises from 0.005% to 2%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, alternatively 0.01% to 0.05%, alternatively from 0.01% to 0.1%, of a polysaccharide polymer by weight of the skin toner composition, wherein the polysaccharide polymers has a molecular weight greater than 750,000 Daltons, preferably greater than 1,000,000 Daltons, alternatively from 1,000,000 to 10,000,000 Daltons.
- the polysaccharide polymer has a main chain constructed from mannan.
- the polysaccharide has branches, preferably short branches of xylose and/or glucuronic acid.
- the polysaccharide polymer may comprise at least 10% glucuronic acid by weight of the polysaccharide polymer, preferably more than 15%, preferably more than 17% of glucuronic acid, alternatively not greater than 50% of the glucuronic acid by weigh of the polysaccharide polymer.
- a polysaccharide polymer is Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide (INCI name) also known as Tremeall hyaluronic acid (CTFA name), and can be obtained from Shanghai Huiwen Biotech Co., Ltd.
- the skin toner composition comprises from 10 part per million (ppm) to
- the polysaccharide polymer preferably from 20 ppm to 80 ppm, more preferably from 30 ppm to 70 ppm, even more preferably from 40 ppm to 60 ppm, alternatively 50 ppm, alternatively combinations thereof, of the polysaccharide polymer in the composition.
- traditional thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum, carbomer and the like, may be used to build a certain product texture.
- the many of these thickeners can contribute to the undesirable tackiness feel.
- the use of Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide may contribute to a desirable texture but minimizes the tackiness feel.
- the present invention comprises from 6% to 20%, preferably 7% to 15%, alternatively 8% to 10% glycerin by weight of the skin toner composition.
- Glycerin is a known moisturizer but is also known to impart a greasy feel, i.e., tackiness.
- tackiness a greasy feel
- the formulations of the present invention deliver these benefits while minimizing tackiness.
- One advantage of the present invention is good hydration, parity with other formulations, at relatively lower concentrations of glycerol, with the additional benefit of minimizing tackiness.
- the present invention comprises from 0% to 5%, preferably from 0% to 4%, more preferably from 0% to 3%, alternatively from 0% to 2%, alternatively from 0% to 1%, alternatively from 0% to 0.5%, of ethanol by weight of the skin toner composition.
- the composition is substantially free or free of ethanol. It is observed that ethanol contributes to the tackiness in some high glycerol containing moisturizing compositions. This tackiness effect is not necessarily perceived immediately upon application of the composition to skin, but rather, it becomes more perceivable over time.
- the solvent effect of ethanol may be replaced, at least in part, by the optimizing the amount of butylenes glycol and pentylene glycol (or a mixture of pentylene glycol and dipropylene glycol).
- the present invention comprises from 1% to 7%, preferably 2% to 6%, of butylene glycol by weight of the skin toner composition.
- the present invention comprises from 1% to 11%, preferably 2% to 10%, more preferably 4% to 8% pentylene glycol or a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the skin toner composition.
- pentylene glycol or a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the skin toner composition.
- a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol is used.
- the present invention comprises from 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.5% to 3%, alternatively from 1% to 2%, alternatively from 0.1 to 1.5%, alternatively from 1.1% to 4%, alternatively combinations thereof, of polyethylene glycol ("PEG") by weight of the skin toner composition.
- PEG polyethylene glycol
- Different molecular weights of PEG may be used, for example, from 100 Daltons to 4,000 Daltons, preferably from 100 Daltons to 3,000 Daltons.
- a mixture of lower and higher molecular weight PEGs are used.
- the lower molecular weight PEG is from 200 Daltons to 500 Daltons.
- the higher molecular weight PEG (of the mixture) is from 1,200 Daltons to 1,800 Daltons.
- this mixture is a 2: 1 to 1:2 weight ratio, respectively, more preferably about a 1: 1 weight ratio.
- PEG polyethylene glycol
- this mixture is a 2: 1 to 1:2 weight ratio, respectively, more preferably about a 1: 1 weight ratio.
- PEG-32 may enhance long lasting moisturization affects of glycerin, particularly at the relatively higher levels of glycerin herein described.
- the present invention comprises from 60% to 90%, preferably from 65% to 85%, more preferably from 70% to 80% of water by weight of the skin toner composition.
- the relatively high amount of water helps to contribute the relative low viscosity of the toner and the clear or translucent appearance of the toner composition (at least in some embodiments of the invention). Viscosity
- a viscosity of the present composition is within the range 1 mPa.s to 1,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1 mPa.s to 100 MPa.s, alternatively from 80 mPa.s, to 200 mPa.s.
- the product viscosity can be measured by a commercially available viscometer, e.g., BROOKFIELD DV II + Viscometer using a UL adapter and an LV spindle set.
- a rotation speed of 5 rpm should be used.
- a rotation speed of 50 rpm should be used.
- Optional adjunct ingredients may be added including, but not limited to, preservatives, chelators, perfumes, pH modifiers, pH buffers, solvents, diluents, viscosity modifiers, colorants, skin whitening active (e. g., 1% to 5% niacinamide by weight of the composition) and the like.
- the present invention is also directed to moisturizing or otherwise treating skin comprising the step of applying a composition of the present invention to skin, preferably by manually rubbing the composition (e.g., lotion) into the skin.
- a composition of the present invention can also be used as part of a treatment regimen.
- skin e.g., facial or hand
- the cleaned skin may be moisturized by the composition of the present invention.
- the present invention provides moisturizing benefits exceeding that of leading skin toner benchmarks for moisturizing benefits and yet also provides less tackiness.
- Table 1 provides the formulations of Inventive Example 1; and benchmarks for skin toner hydration including The Procter & Gamble Company's Olay® RegeneristTM Micro- sculpting Essence WaterTM sold in China and Shiseido's Aupres ® Timelock Energizer Lotion IITM; and Aupres® Whitening Energizer Lotion IITM also sold in China.
- Table 2 provides comparative data for hydration.
- Table 3 provides comparative data for tackiness. Chinese expert panelists are used for the research.
- Table 1 Formulations of inventive and benchmark products providing relevant component ingredients.
- the inventive skin toner composition is compared with the benchmarks, and differs in several key aspects.
- Olay® product does have almost twice the amount of Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide as the inventive formulation and contains butylene glycol, Olay® does not have any: ethanol, glycerin, and polyethylene glycol.
- the Aupres® products although having a high level of glycerin and contain PEG and butylene glycol; these products do not have any Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide, and pentylene glycol. Notably the Aupres® products have a high level of ethanol.
- the relevant ingredients of the Aupres® are obtained from the packaging ingredient list and from chemical analysis.
- Hydration of the inventive and three benchmark compositions are assessed.
- the relevant components are previously described in Table 1.
- Hydration test method is the well-known capacitance method (Corneometer CM 825), which is based on measurement of the capacitance of the skin surface.
- the measuring interdigital electrode indicates changes in capacitance of the skin due to variations in the moisture content of stratum corneum.
- Application of water on the skin surface is used as a control.
- the results are converted in arbitrary hydration units varying from 0 to 120. The higher the units, the more hydration is imparted to the skin by the formulation.
- Table 2 The results are provided in Table 2 below.
- inventive composition corneometer results increased by 53.5 units compared to the control (water) result at 15min, and still by 35.2 units after 40min.
- inventive formulation's corneometer result increased 39.3% and 51.6% at 15min, 48.5% and parity at 40min.
- Table 2 Hydration results from baseline vs. time of inventive composition and benchmarks.
- the inventive composition has less tackiness than the benchmark compositions (Olay® and Aupres ® benchmarks). Data is presented in Table 3 below.
- the test method for tackiness (or so called "greasy feel") is a descriptive analysis panel test. Blinded, monadic, single-use evaluations are conducted under controlled environmental conditions, by a trained expert panel (10 panelists) using standardized procedures. The grading is between 0-8 for the tackiness attribute. Tackiness is the perception of a sticky feel, i.e., fingers do not release easily when pressed against the skin surface. It is evaluated by pressing fleshy area of cheek with finger pads using light pressure ( ⁇ 28 grams), wherein 0 means non-tacky, 4 means moderate, and 8 means very much. In other words, the lower the grade, the less of the undesirable tackiness attribute.
- Each product sample is pre-measured (0.1ml) and is presented to the panelist by a moderator using syringe with the appropriate blinding code.
- Each product is presented on the center of cheek directly by each panelist.
- the panelists press the fleshy area just under the cheekbone in an upward motion with a light touch ( ⁇ 28 grams pressure). A grading value is then provided by the panelist.
- Table 3 Tackiness v. Time of Inventive Composition and Benchmarks.
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Abstract
An improved skin toner composition that provides skin moisturization (i.e., hydration) benefits, but does not leave a greasy feeling to the skin.
Description
NON-GREASY MOISTURIZING SKIN TONER
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to a skin toner.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Toner, also known as "clear lotion", is a low viscosity personal care composition. Toner is typically applied to skin after a facial or skin cleanser is used and before a skin moisturizer is used. The use of toner has long been deemed as a supplementary step in the skin care regimen to neutralize the elevated pH of the skin surface which is caused by the facial or skin cleanser, and thereby prepare the skin for better absorption of the moisturizer.
More recently, the use of a toner has been designed as an independent step in the regimen, and various benefits that a toner can provide are being explored. There is a need to provide a skin toner that provides moisturization (i.e., hydration) benefits but does not have an undesirable greasy feel. Many users want to have deep moisturizing skin toner, particularly during winter months or dry climates. However, many of these formulations leave an undesirable greasy feel. There is a need to provide deep moisturizing skin benefits from a skin toner but not leave a greasy feeling so called low tackiness. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Surprisingly we found that current toner benchmarks have not optimized humectant systems to maximize hydration while minimizing tackiness. After developing a clear skin toner sensory and hydration model, we discovered formulations having the best balance of these two parameters. Accordingly, one aspect of the invention provides a skin toner composition comprising: (a) 0.005% to 2%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, alternatively from 0.01% to 0.1%, of a polysaccharide polymer by weight of the composition, wherein the polysaccharide polymer has a molecular weight greater than 750,000 Daltons, preferably greater than 1,000,000 Daltons; (b) 6% to 20%, preferably 7% to 15%, alternatively 8% to 10% of glycerin by weight of the composition; (c) 1% to 7%, preferably 2% to 6% of butylene glycol by weight of the composition; (d) 1% to 11%, preferably 2% to 10%, more preferably 4% to 8% pentylene glycol or a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the composition, preferably a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol; (e) 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.5% to 3% polyethylene glycol by weight of the composition, preferably the polyethylene glycol having a molecular
weight from 100 Daltons to 4,000 Daltons, more preferably from 100 Daltons to 3,000 Daltons, yet more preferably a mixture of 200-500 Dalton and 1,200 to 1,800 Daltons, yet still more preferably wherein the weight ratio of the said mixture is from 1:2 to 2: 1, respectively, (preferably the weight ratio is about 1: 1); (f) 0% to less than 4%, preferably from 0% to 3%, more preferably from 0% to 2%, alternatively from 0% to 1% of ethanol by weight of the composition; (g) 60% to 90%, preferably from 65% to 85%, more preferably from 70% to 80% of water by weight of the composition; and (h) adjunct ingredients.
Another aspect of the invention provides for a method of moisturizing skin comprising the step of applying a composition of the present invention to skin, preferably wherein the skin is facial skin or hand skin. Yet another aspect of the invention provides for a treatment regimen comprising the steps: cleansing skin; toning the cleansed skin with a composition of present invention, preferably wherein the skin is facial skin or hand skin; and optionally moisturizing the toned skin. The term "moisturization" and "hydration" are used herein interchangeably. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Polysaccharide Polymer
The present invention comprises from 0.005% to 2%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, alternatively 0.01% to 0.05%, alternatively from 0.01% to 0.1%, of a polysaccharide polymer by weight of the skin toner composition, wherein the polysaccharide polymers has a molecular weight greater than 750,000 Daltons, preferably greater than 1,000,000 Daltons, alternatively from 1,000,000 to 10,000,000 Daltons. In one embodiment, the polysaccharide polymer has a main chain constructed from mannan. In another embodiment, the polysaccharide has branches, preferably short branches of xylose and/or glucuronic acid. To this end, the polysaccharide polymer may comprise at least 10% glucuronic acid by weight of the polysaccharide polymer, preferably more than 15%, preferably more than 17% of glucuronic acid, alternatively not greater than 50% of the glucuronic acid by weigh of the polysaccharide polymer. One non-limiting example of a polysaccharide polymer is Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide (INCI name) also known as Tremeall hyaluronic acid (CTFA name), and can be obtained from Shanghai Huiwen Biotech Co., Ltd.
In one embodiment, the skin toner composition comprises from 10 part per million (ppm) to
100 ppm of the polysaccharide polymer, preferably from 20 ppm to 80 ppm, more preferably from 30 ppm to 70 ppm, even more preferably from 40 ppm to 60 ppm, alternatively 50 ppm, alternatively combinations thereof, of the polysaccharide polymer in the composition.
Without wishing to be bound by theory, the use of traditional thickeners, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum, carbomer and the like, may be used to build a certain product texture. However, it is believed that the many of these thickeners can contribute to the undesirable tackiness feel. The use of Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide may contribute to a desirable texture but minimizes the tackiness feel.
Glycerin
The present invention comprises from 6% to 20%, preferably 7% to 15%, alternatively 8% to 10% glycerin by weight of the skin toner composition. Glycerin is a known moisturizer but is also known to impart a greasy feel, i.e., tackiness. There is a need to maximize the delivery and/or content of a skin toner composition that contains glycerin but does not impart a greasy feel. The formulations of the present invention deliver these benefits while minimizing tackiness. One advantage of the present invention is good hydration, parity with other formulations, at relatively lower concentrations of glycerol, with the additional benefit of minimizing tackiness.
Ethanol
The present invention comprises from 0% to 5%, preferably from 0% to 4%, more preferably from 0% to 3%, alternatively from 0% to 2%, alternatively from 0% to 1%, alternatively from 0% to 0.5%, of ethanol by weight of the skin toner composition. In one embodiment, the composition is substantially free or free of ethanol. It is observed that ethanol contributes to the tackiness in some high glycerol containing moisturizing compositions. This tackiness effect is not necessarily perceived immediately upon application of the composition to skin, but rather, it becomes more perceivable over time. The solvent effect of ethanol may be replaced, at least in part, by the optimizing the amount of butylenes glycol and pentylene glycol (or a mixture of pentylene glycol and dipropylene glycol).
Butylene Glycol
The present invention comprises from 1% to 7%, preferably 2% to 6%, of butylene glycol by weight of the skin toner composition.
Pentylene Glycol/Dipropylene Glycol
The present invention comprises from 1% to 11%, preferably 2% to 10%, more preferably 4% to 8% pentylene glycol or a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the skin toner composition. Preferably a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol is used.
PEG
The present invention comprises from 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.5% to 3%, alternatively from 1% to 2%, alternatively from 0.1 to 1.5%, alternatively from 1.1% to 4%, alternatively
combinations thereof, of polyethylene glycol ("PEG") by weight of the skin toner composition. Different molecular weights of PEG may be used, for example, from 100 Daltons to 4,000 Daltons, preferably from 100 Daltons to 3,000 Daltons. In one preferred embodiment, a mixture of lower and higher molecular weight PEGs are used. The lower molecular weight PEG is from 200 Daltons to 500 Daltons. The higher molecular weight PEG (of the mixture) is from 1,200 Daltons to 1,800 Daltons. In yet a more preferred embodiment, this mixture is a 2: 1 to 1:2 weight ratio, respectively, more preferably about a 1: 1 weight ratio. Surprisingly generally higher molecular weight PEG, such as PEG-32, may enhance long lasting moisturization affects of glycerin, particularly at the relatively higher levels of glycerin herein described.
Water
The present invention comprises from 60% to 90%, preferably from 65% to 85%, more preferably from 70% to 80% of water by weight of the skin toner composition. The relatively high amount of water helps to contribute the relative low viscosity of the toner and the clear or translucent appearance of the toner composition (at least in some embodiments of the invention). Viscosity
In one embodiment, a viscosity of the present composition is within the range 1 mPa.s to 1,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1 mPa.s to 100 MPa.s, alternatively from 80 mPa.s, to 200 mPa.s. The product viscosity can be measured by a commercially available viscometer, e.g., BROOKFIELD DV II + Viscometer using a UL adapter and an LV spindle set. For measurement of a viscosity which is higher thanl2 mPa.s, a rotation speed of 5 rpm should be used. For measurement of viscosity which is low, e.g., 1-12 mPa.s, a rotation speed of 50 rpm should be used.
Adjunct Ingredients
Optional adjunct ingredients may be added including, but not limited to, preservatives, chelators, perfumes, pH modifiers, pH buffers, solvents, diluents, viscosity modifiers, colorants, skin whitening active (e. g., 1% to 5% niacinamide by weight of the composition) and the like.
Methods and Treatment
The present invention is also directed to moisturizing or otherwise treating skin comprising the step of applying a composition of the present invention to skin, preferably by manually rubbing the composition (e.g., lotion) into the skin. The compositions of the present invention can also be used as part of a treatment regimen. For example, skin (e.g., facial or hand) may be cleansed (or otherwise washed) and thereafter the cleaned skin may be moisturized by the composition of the present invention.
Data
The present invention provides moisturizing benefits exceeding that of leading skin toner benchmarks for moisturizing benefits and yet also provides less tackiness. Table 1 provides the formulations of Inventive Example 1; and benchmarks for skin toner hydration including The Procter & Gamble Company's Olay® Regenerist™ Micro- sculpting Essence Water™ sold in China and Shiseido's Aupres ® Timelock Energizer Lotion II™; and Aupres® Whitening Energizer Lotion II™ also sold in China. Table 2 provides comparative data for hydration. Table 3 provides comparative data for tackiness. Chinese expert panelists are used for the research.
Table 1: Formulations of inventive and benchmark products providing relevant component ingredients.
Lot No. 30530386AF (Olay® Regenerist™ Micro- sculpting Essence Water™ )
Lot No. 201300 TNOJ (Shiseido® Aupres® Timelock Energizer Lotion II™)
Lot No. 2015.05DTRM (Shiseido® Aupres® Whitening Energizer Lotion II™)
The inventive skin toner composition is compared with the benchmarks, and differs in several key aspects. Although the Olay® product does have almost twice the amount of Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide as the inventive formulation and contains butylene glycol, Olay® does not have any: ethanol, glycerin, and polyethylene glycol. The Aupres® products, although having a high level of glycerin and contain PEG and butylene glycol; these products do not have any Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide, and pentylene glycol. Notably the Aupres® products have a high level of ethanol. The relevant ingredients of the Aupres® are obtained from the packaging ingredient list and from chemical analysis.
Hydration
Hydration of the inventive and three benchmark compositions are assessed. The relevant components are previously described in Table 1. Hydration test method is the well-known capacitance method (Corneometer CM 825), which is based on measurement of the capacitance of the skin surface. The measuring interdigital electrode indicates changes in capacitance of the skin due to variations in the moisture content of stratum corneum. Application of water on the skin surface is used as a control. The results are converted in arbitrary hydration units varying from 0 to 120. The higher the units, the more hydration is imparted to the skin by the formulation. The results are provided in Table 2 below.
Data shows the inventive composition corneometer results increased by 53.5 units compared to the control (water) result at 15min, and still by 35.2 units after 40min. Compared to the benchmarks, the inventive formulation's corneometer result increased 39.3% and 51.6% at 15min, 48.5% and parity at 40min.
Table 2: Hydration results from baseline vs. time of inventive composition and benchmarks.
Tackiness
The inventive composition has less tackiness than the benchmark compositions (Olay® and Aupres ® benchmarks). Data is presented in Table 3 below. The test method for tackiness (or so called "greasy feel") is a descriptive analysis panel test. Blinded, monadic, single-use
evaluations are conducted under controlled environmental conditions, by a trained expert panel (10 panelists) using standardized procedures. The grading is between 0-8 for the tackiness attribute. Tackiness is the perception of a sticky feel, i.e., fingers do not release easily when pressed against the skin surface. It is evaluated by pressing fleshy area of cheek with finger pads using light pressure (~ 28 grams), wherein 0 means non-tacky, 4 means moderate, and 8 means very much. In other words, the lower the grade, the less of the undesirable tackiness attribute.
Each product sample is pre-measured (0.1ml) and is presented to the panelist by a moderator using syringe with the appropriate blinding code. Each product is presented on the center of cheek directly by each panelist. To evaluate tackiness, the panelists press the fleshy area just under the cheekbone in an upward motion with a light touch (~ 28 grams pressure). A grading value is then provided by the panelist.
Those results, having differences larger than 0.3, are statistically significant. Although the results at 2.5 minutes are at parity, current marketed benchmark products from Aupres® are much tackier than inventive composition at time point of 5 minutes and beyond. The inventive composition is about parity with Olay® until about 15 minutes, where there is a slight difference at the 15 minute time point. However, the Olay® product does have glycerin (which is typically the source of tackiness) but also does not have the moisturization/hydration benefits provided by the present invention. Therefore, the present invention provides hydration benefits without the tackiness typically associated with such hydrating skin tone compositions.
Table 3: Tackiness v. Time of Inventive Composition and Benchmarks.
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "about 40 mm."
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise
limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.
Claims
1. A skin toner composition comprising:
(a) 0.005% to 2% of a polysaccharide polymer by weight of the composition, wherein the polysaccharide polymer has a molecular weight greater than 750,000 Daltons;
(b) 6% to 20% of glycerin by weight of the composition;
(c) 1% to 7% of butylene glycol by weight of the composition;
(d) 1% to 11% of pentylene glycol or a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the composition;
(e) 0.1% to 5% of polyethylene glycol by weight of the composition;
(f) 0% to less than 4% of ethanol by weight of the composition;
(g) 60% to 90% of water by weight of the composition; and
(h) adjunct ingredient(s).
2. The composition of claim 1, comprising from 0.005% to 1% of the polysaccharide polymer by weight of the composition, wherein the polysaccharide polymer has a molecular weight greater than 1,000,000 Daltons.
3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the polysaccharide polymer comprises at least 10% glucuronic acid by weight of the polysaccharide polymer.
4. The composition of claim 3, wherein the polysaccharide polymer further comprises mannan and xylose.
5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the polysaccharide polymer is Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide.
6. The composition of claim 1, comprising:
(a) 7% to 15% of the glycerin by weight of the composition;
(b) 2% to 6% of the butylene glycol by weight of the composition;
(c) 2% to 10% of the mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the composition;
(d) 0.5% to 3% of the polyethylene glycol by weight of the composition, wherein the polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight from 100 Daltons to 4,000 Daltons;
(e) 0% to 3% of the ethanol by weight of the composition; and
(f) 65% to 85% of the water by weight of the composition.
7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the polysaccharide polymer is Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide.
8. The composition of claim 7, comprising from 8% to 10% of the glycerin by weight of the composition, 4% to 8% of the mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the composition; and 0% to 2% the ethanol by weight of the composition.
9. The composition of claim 8, wherein the polyethylene glycol comprises a mixture of molecular weights having from 200 Daltons to 500 Daltons and from 1,200 to 1,800 Daltons, wherein said mixture is in a weight ratio from 1:2 to 2: 1, respectively.
10. The composition of claim 9, comprising from 70% to 80% of the water by weight of the composition.
11. The composition of claim 10, further comprising 1% to 5% of niacinamide by weight of the composition.
12. The composition of claim 10, wherein the composition comprises a viscosity of from 1 mPa.s to 100 mPa.s.
13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the composition is clear or translucent.
14. A method of moisturizing skin comprising the step of applying a composition of claim 1 to skin.
15. A treatment regimen comprising the steps:
(a) cleansing skin;
(b) toning the cleansed skin with a composition of claim 1 ; and
(c) moisturizing the toned skin with a moisturizer.
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PCT/CN2014/078750 WO2015180083A1 (en) | 2014-05-29 | 2014-05-29 | Non-greasy moisturizing skin toner |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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PCT/CN2014/078750 WO2015180083A1 (en) | 2014-05-29 | 2014-05-29 | Non-greasy moisturizing skin toner |
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WO2015180083A1 true WO2015180083A1 (en) | 2015-12-03 |
Family
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PCT/CN2014/078750 WO2015180083A1 (en) | 2014-05-29 | 2014-05-29 | Non-greasy moisturizing skin toner |
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CN107446825A (en) * | 2017-09-11 | 2017-12-08 | 华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司 | One plant of white fungus bacterial strain and its application |
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CN107446825A (en) * | 2017-09-11 | 2017-12-08 | 华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司 | One plant of white fungus bacterial strain and its application |
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