WO2015021625A1 - Composition comprenant des composés pâteux et un filtre anti-uv organique - Google Patents

Composition comprenant des composés pâteux et un filtre anti-uv organique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015021625A1
WO2015021625A1 PCT/CN2013/081507 CN2013081507W WO2015021625A1 WO 2015021625 A1 WO2015021625 A1 WO 2015021625A1 CN 2013081507 W CN2013081507 W CN 2013081507W WO 2015021625 A1 WO2015021625 A1 WO 2015021625A1
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composition
weight
derivatives
chosen
mixture
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PCT/CN2013/081507
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English (en)
Inventor
Lucie LEBAILLY
Nan Xu
Weiwei Wu
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/CN2013/081507 priority Critical patent/WO2015021625A1/fr
Priority to CN201380078877.6A priority patent/CN105451711A/zh
Publication of WO2015021625A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015021625A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates, in general, to a composition for application onto a targeted substrate such as the skin and the lips. More particularly, the present invention relates to a composition which provides to the skin and the lips, in particular the lips good moisturizing or hydration effect, a good UV protection, and at the same time, a good appearance and homogeneous wear.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips are produced to satisfy the need of moisturizing or hydration of the skin and the lips.
  • compositions as such use pastes such as lanolin, polyol esters, esters of a glycerol oligomer to bring to the skin and the lips moisturizing or hydration.
  • UV filters for protection of the skin and the lips, various types of the UV filters are employed in the conventional products. Furthermore, products with above mentioned properties must also satisfy the requirements of usage during application, such as wear property, appearance qualities, so as to ensure comfortable application and also a sufficient and good-quality deposit on the skin and the lips, in particular the lips.
  • US 7,090,860 B2 disclosed a composition comprising polyol ether, oils, and waxes. Such a composition may further comprise screening agents according to one particular example. The composition maintains the solid shape despite of the temperature rise, and can be deposited on the keratinous materials. However it did not solve the issue of hydration or moisturizing of the products.
  • US2006/0120989 disclosed a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising polyol ethers, and other pasty compounds other than the polyol ethers.
  • the composition further comprises particles such as pigments.
  • the pigments used according to an embodiment may cause an issue of wear properties on the lips during application.
  • the use of an association of at least two types of pasty compounds, in combination with at least one organic UV filter enables the composition as such having a good moisturizing or hydration effect on the skin or the lips, in particular the lips, and having a good usage, which is, in other words, good appearance and homogeneous wear on the skin and the lips, in particular the lips.
  • the invention is thus relating to a composition
  • a composition comprising:
  • pasty compounds are present in an amount ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Another object of the invention is relating to a process for caring for/making up keratin materials, preferably the skin, more preferably the face and the lips, even more preferably the lips, by applying the composition as described above to the said keratin material.
  • composition of the present invention comprises: a) at least one first pasty compound chosen from polyol ethers comprising polyalkyene glycol pentaerythritol ethers,
  • pasty compounds are present in an amount ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention is solid.
  • solid composition means a composition which hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm '1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.
  • the hardness of a solid composition is measured according to the following protocol.
  • composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
  • the hardness may be measured at 20°C via the "cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.
  • the hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.
  • the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
  • the average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres).
  • the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of greater than or equal to 40 Nm "1 and preferably greater than 50 Nm "1 .
  • the composition according to the invention especially has a hardness at 20°C of less than 500 Nm "1 , especially less than 400 Nm "1 and preferably less than 300 Nm "1 .
  • these compositions have a shear value ranging from 50 to 120 and preferably from 70 to 100 gF.
  • these compositions may be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support means.
  • the composition according to the invention is solid.
  • composition according to the invention is anhydrous.
  • anhydrous composition means a composition containing less than 2% and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.
  • the "keratin material” according to the present invention is the skin and the lips.
  • skin we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the lips.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to the skin or the lips.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.
  • Pasty compound The composition of the present invention comprises pasty compounds.
  • the composition comprises at least one first pasty compound, and at least one second pasty compound which is different from the first pasty compound.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one first pasty compound chosen from polyol ethers comprising polyalkyene glycol pentaerythritol ethers, and at least one second pasty compound which is different from the first pasty compound, wherein the total amount of the pasty compounds is from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • pasty within the meaning of the present invention, is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, represents 9 to 97% by weight of the composition. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85%, by weight.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a 5 mg sample of pasty compounds placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in
  • the melting point of the pasty compounds is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compounds at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to change from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is "in the solid state” when the whole of its mass is in the solid crystalline form.
  • the pasty compounds is "in the liquid state” when the whole of its mass is in the liquid form.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10°C per minute, according to Standard ISO 11357-3:1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds is the amount of energy necessary to change the pasty compounds from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, composed of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compounds measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty compounds, preferably from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compounds, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty compounds.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compounds is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compounds measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • the pasty compounds are present in a total amount ranging from 30% to 80 by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pasty compounds that are suitable for the present invention are present in a total amount ranging from 40% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one first pasty compound.
  • the first pasty compound is chosen from polyol ethers, which is, in particular, polyalkylene glycol pentaerythritol ethers.
  • the polyalkylene glycol pentaerythritol ethers may contain in particular from 1 to 450
  • oxyalkylenated units preferably from 1 to 200 oxyalkylenated units, even better from 1 to 100 oxyalkylenated units and better still from 1 to 50 oxyalkylenated units. They may be chosen in particular from polyethylene glycol pentaerythritol ethers containing from 1 to 450
  • oxyethylenated units preferably from 1 to 200 oxyethylenated units, even better from 1 to 100 oxyethylenated units and better still from 1 to 50 oxyethylenated units; polypropylene glycol pentaerythritol ethers containing from 1 to 450 oxypropylenated units, preferably from 1 to 200 oxypropylenated units, even better from 1 to 100 oxypropylenated units and better still from 1 to 50 oxypropylenated units; and mixtures thereof.
  • EO oxyethylenated units
  • PO polypropylene glycol pentaerythritol ether containing 5 oxypropylenated units
  • PEG-5 Pentaerythntyl Ether PEG-5 Pentaerythntyl Ether
  • PEG-5 Pentaerythntyl Ether PPG-5 Pentaerythntyl Ether
  • soya bean oil mixture marketed under the name "Lanolide” by the company Vevy, a mixture in which their constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythntyl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythntyl Ether and 85% of soya bean oil.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one first pasty compound chosen from polyol ethers comprising polyethylene glycol pentaerythntyl ether containing 5 oxyethylenated units, polypropylene glycol pentaerythritol ether containing 5 oxypropylenated units, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one first pasty compound is a polyol ether in the form of a mixture comprising polyethylene glycol pentaerythritol ether comprising 5 oxyethylenated units, polypropylene glycol pentaerythritol ether comprising 5 oxypropylenated units, and soya bean oil.
  • polyol ether in the form of a mixture comprising polyethylene glycol pentaerythritol ether comprising 5 oxyethylenated units, polypropylene glycol pentaerythritol ether comprising 5 oxypropylenated units, and soya bean oil.
  • Such products are commercially available, for example, marketed under the name "Lanolide” by the company Vevy, a mixture in which their constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythntyl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythntyl Ether and
  • the at least one first pasty compound is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to an embodiment, the at least one first pasty compound is present in an amount ranging from 8% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • this amount is ranging from 20% to 30% by weight of the said first pasty compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises, in addition to the first pasty compound, at least one second pasty compound, which is different from the first pasty compound described above.
  • the pasty compounds are advantageously chosen from hydrocarbon based pasty compounds and more particularly from the following compounds: lanolin and derivatives thereof;
  • oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups such as vinyl ester homopolymers containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo;
  • liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 o and preferably C 2 -C 5 o diols
  • the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C 6 -C 30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30.
  • copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • esters especially those chosen from:
  • esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the brand name Softisan ® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo,
  • vinyl ester homopolymers containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
  • fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof for instance triglycerides of fatty acids, which are especially C 10 -C 18 , and partially or totally hydrogenated such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol,
  • aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 30 carbons, preferably 8 to 30 carbons. It is preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid,
  • tetradecanoic acid pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.
  • the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is
  • a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
  • the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is chosen from:
  • polycarboxylic acids o partial or total esters of C 2 to Ci 6 aliphatic polyols that have reacted with a monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid,
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: Bis- Behenyl/lsostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G), Phytosteryl/lsostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,
  • mango butter such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AarhusKarlshamn
  • the second pasty compound is chosen from petroleum jelly, esters of a glycerol oligomer, or a mixture thereof.
  • the second pasty compound is a mixture of petroleum jelly and esters of a glycerol oligomer.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one second pasty compound chosen from petroleum jelly, preferably petrolatum.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one second pasty compound chosen from esters of glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis- diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.
  • the composition comprises at least one second pasty compound chosen from petrolatum, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one organic UV filter.
  • the UV filter may be formed from at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filter.
  • composition of the present invention further comprises at least one inorganic UV filter.
  • the organic UV filters are chosen especially from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in patent applications US 5 237 071 , US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 1 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844
  • Cinnamic derivatives Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann LaRoche;
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000 Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Haarmann & Reimer, DEA Methoxycinnamate,
  • Dibenzoylmethane derivatives Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name Parsol 1789 by Hoffmann LaRoche, or 622501 NEO Heliopan 357 by Symrise;
  • Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name Escalol 507 by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name Uvinul P25 by BASF,
  • Neo Heliopan TS sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Haarmann & Reimer
  • ⁇ , ⁇ -Diphenylacrylate derivatives Octocrylene sold especially under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF, or Escalol ® 597 by ISP (Ashland),
  • Etocrylene sold especially under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF,
  • Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF
  • Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF
  • Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul ® M40 by BASF
  • Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF
  • Benzophenone-5 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF
  • Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 1 1 by Norquay
  • Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid
  • Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name Uvinul DS-49 by BASF
  • Benzophenone-12 n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul A+, or in the form of a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul A+B by the company BASF.
  • Benzylidenecamphor derivatives 3-Benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD by Chimex, 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck, Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by Chimex, Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO by Chimex, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by Chimex, Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW by Chimex,
  • Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck,
  • Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives Drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie,
  • Ethylhexyltriazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul ® T150 by BASF, Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, the symmetrical triazine UV screening agents described in patent US 6 225 467, patent application WO 2004/085 412 (see compounds 6 and
  • Anthranilic derivatives Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions for instance Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX by Hoffmann LaRoche
  • the preferential organic screening agents are chosen from: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
  • the present invention comprises organic UV filters chosen from butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one organic UV filter of the present composition is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one organic UV filter is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 16% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one inorganic UV filter (also called as UV-screening agent, or pigments).
  • the inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide pigments with a mean elemental particle size of less than or equal to 500 nm, more preferentially between 5 nm and 500 nm and even more preferentially between 50 nm and 500 nm, and preferentially between 100 and 400 nm.
  • the particle size aforementioned mentioned is an average value.
  • They may be chosen especially from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.
  • Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
  • Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include the products sold by the companies Kemira, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
  • the metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium) of polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium) of polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hex
  • coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:
  • silica such as the product Sunveil from the company Ikeda
  • alumina and aluminium stearate such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z and MT-01 from the company Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W and Solaveil CT 100 from the company Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO from the company Merck,
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company Degussa under the name P 25, by the company Wacker under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • Nanogard WCD 2025 those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 by the company Nanophase Technologies.
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • Zinc Oxide CS-5 those sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5 by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
  • Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN by the company Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); - those sold under the name Daitopersion ZN-30 and Daitopersion ZN-50 by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane/oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of nanozinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
  • Nanox Gel TN those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
  • the uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are sold under the name Tipaque PF-671 by the company Ishihara Sangyo.
  • the uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
  • the uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ and Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220.
  • the coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN), Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345 and Nanogard FE 45 BL or by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide.
  • coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
  • the inorganic UV filters are present in an amount less than 0.4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one wax.
  • the term "wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C.
  • the waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from solid waxes that may or may not be deformable at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • Hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.
  • Mentions may be especially made of beeswax, for example the product sold under the trade name Cire d'abelle blanche BR G889 by Koster Keunen.
  • ozokerite that is sold, for example under the trade name Ozokerite Wax SP 1020P by Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes that is sold, for example, under the trade name White Microcrystalline Wax SP-18 by Strahl & Pitsch, or a mixture thereof.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
  • waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis(1 , 1 ,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, and bis(1 ,1 ,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.
  • Waxes that may also be mentioned include fluoro waxes.
  • esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils mention may be made to the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of palm oil esterified with cetyl alcohol.
  • Such products can be found, for example, under the trade name CUTINA ® CP from Cognis (BASF), castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 ® and 22L73 ® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
  • Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
  • a wax that may be used is a C 2 o-C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P ® , Hydroxy polyester K 82 P ® and Kester Wax K 80 P ® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • the wax(es) suitable for the present invention is chosen from hydrocarbon- based waxes, esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one wax chosen from beeswax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, cetyl palmitate, or a mixture thereof.
  • the amount varies between 10% and 40%, preferably between 15% and 30% by weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, including nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based fluror oils, and nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil, one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, or a mixture thereof.
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof: - hydrocarbon-based plant oils, such as Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) oil, triglycerides such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, caprylic/capric triglycerides, ricinus communis (castor) oil, cocos nucifera
  • jojoba Simmondsia Chinensis
  • triglycerides such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • caprylic/capric triglycerides such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • caprylic/capric triglycerides such as triglycerides of
  • the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms
  • the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl heptanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl
  • isononanoate diisostearyl malate, oleyl erucate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate; mentions may be made of stearyl heptanotate such as the product sold under the trade name Tegosoft SH by Evonik ® Goldschmidt.
  • Copolymer or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as
  • Hailuscent ISDA - fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, which are branched or linear, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol;
  • the said alcohols are branched; mentions maybe made of octyldodecanol such as the product with the trade name Eutanol G ® sold by the company BASF;
  • Ci 2 -C 2 6 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ® by Cognis;
  • esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer; mention may be made especially of the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippo
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic acid may be obtained from a monocarboxylic acid containing from 4 to 34 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
  • the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based plant oils, hydrocarbon-based mono- or di- esters the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.
  • at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based plant oils, hydrocarbon-based mono- or di- esters the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.
  • composition of the present invention further comprises at least one wax chosen from jojoba oil, stearyl heptanotate, or a mixture thereof.
  • jojoba oil stearyl heptanotate
  • Nonvolatile fluoro oil jojoba oil, stearyl heptanotate, or a mixture thereof.
  • the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a fluoro oil.
  • fluoro oil means oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • perfluoro compounds means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • the fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.
  • perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
  • the fluoro oil is chosen from
  • perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes and especially the Fiflow ® products sold by the company Creations Couliv.
  • use may be made of the fluoro oil for which the INCI name is Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils The composition according to the invention preferably comprise a nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based apolar oil.
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5a, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)1/2.
  • solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
  • - 5a ( ⁇ 2 + 5h 2 )1 ⁇ 2.
  • the parameters ⁇ , 5h, 5D and 5a are expressed in (J/cm3)1 ⁇ 2.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.
  • nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is apolar, the compoundis then free of oxygen, nitrogen atom(s).
  • the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
  • the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil suitable for the invention is chosen from liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, for example the product sold under the trade name Primol 352 by the company Exxonmobil Chemical.
  • the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil which is chosen from jojoba oil, stearvl heptanotate, or a mixture thereof.
  • the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in a total amount of between 5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 8% and 30% by weight, and more preferably between 10% and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • Galenic form is present in a total amount of between 5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 8% and 30% by weight, and more preferably between 10% and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of make up product such as lip balm, lip stick, lip gloss, and so on.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from, lipophilic solvents and oils different from the nonvolatiles hydrocarbon-based oils cited before, and mixtures thereof.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof.
  • camphor for example products sold under the trade name Camphor synthetic USP/EP by the company Camphor and Allied
  • menthol such as products sold under the name 600012 Menthol Laevo Pellets PH by the company Symrise
  • eucalyptus globules leaf oil for example the products sold under the trade name Oil eucalyptus 80/85% by the company Ungerer, or a mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may be prepared in a conventional manner.
  • the invention example 1 and the comparative example 2 have a UV protection of SPF 31 .
  • the comparative example 1 and 3 do not have UV protection effect on the skin.
  • formulations examples are prepared following the steps of: mixing the ingredients in phase A under 93 ° C , stiring the mixture at 300r/min by IKA Blender Euro - ST P CV S25 model until homogeneous; adding the ingredients in phase B, C, D, and E to phase A one after another at 93 ° C ; stiring the mixture at 300r/min by IKA Blender Euro - ST P CV S25 model until homogenization; pouring the homogenized mixture into a lip stick mould at 93 ° C , leaving the mixture in the mould under 25 ° C until solidation; demoulding the solid mixture from the lip stick mould.
  • the measurement is performed via an instrumental method using a CM 825 PC corneometer. This machine measures the electric capacity of the skin: the higher the value displayed, the more moisturized the skin.
  • the invention and comparative examples as mentioned above were applied at a rate of 0.3 mg/cm 2 to the inner face of the forearms of a panel of 24 people with ages ranging from 20 to 40.
  • the moisturizing or hydration level of the treated area was measured using the corneometer, and compared with bare skin at TO (before application) and at different time intervals: after 6 hours. The result is shown in the table below:
  • the level of moisturizing or hydration of the skin is improved by 30% after application of the invention example 1 , which, comparing to the comparative examples 1 to 3, shows a good moisturizing or hydration effect.
  • the comparative example 3 leaves un Homogeneous white lines after application, and therefore is not acceptable in terms of usage.
  • the comparative examples 1 and 2, and the invention example 1 all possess good usage
  • the invention example 1 among all, exhibits the best usage on the skin, providing to the skin homogeneous appearance and wear after application. Based on the above listed evaluation results, the inventors discovered that the composition according to the present invention overcomes the technical issues existing in the prior arts, and provides a stable composition with good moisturizing or hydration effect and good usage.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne de façon générale une composition destinée à être appliquée sur un substrat ciblé comme la peau et les lèvres. Plus particulièrement, la présente invention concerne une composition qui procure à la peau et aux lèvres, en particulier les lèvres, un bon effet humidifiant et hydratant, une bonne protection anti-UV et dans le même temps un bon aspect et un port homogène.
PCT/CN2013/081507 2013-08-15 2013-08-15 Composition comprenant des composés pâteux et un filtre anti-uv organique WO2015021625A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

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PCT/CN2013/081507 WO2015021625A1 (fr) 2013-08-15 2013-08-15 Composition comprenant des composés pâteux et un filtre anti-uv organique
CN201380078877.6A CN105451711A (zh) 2013-08-15 2013-08-15 包含糊状化合物和有机uv滤光剂的组合物

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2018086005A1 (fr) * 2016-11-09 2018-05-17 L'oreal Composition présentant une sensation de refroidissement
EP3334409A4 (fr) * 2015-07-14 2019-01-16 L'oreal Composition anhydre solide comprenant une combinaison de cires

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5624663A (en) * 1987-08-28 1997-04-29 L'oreal Photostable cosmetic filter composition cotaining a UV-A filter and a substituted dialkylbenzalmalonate, the use of substituted dialkylbenzalmalonates in cosmetics as broad-band solar filters and novel substituted dialkyl malonates
US20030108579A1 (en) * 2001-10-25 2003-06-12 L'oreal Topical composition
US20060120989A1 (en) * 2004-11-16 2006-06-08 Audrey Ricard Cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyol ether and at least one pasty substance

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5624663A (en) * 1987-08-28 1997-04-29 L'oreal Photostable cosmetic filter composition cotaining a UV-A filter and a substituted dialkylbenzalmalonate, the use of substituted dialkylbenzalmalonates in cosmetics as broad-band solar filters and novel substituted dialkyl malonates
US20030108579A1 (en) * 2001-10-25 2003-06-12 L'oreal Topical composition
US20060120989A1 (en) * 2004-11-16 2006-06-08 Audrey Ricard Cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyol ether and at least one pasty substance

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3334409A4 (fr) * 2015-07-14 2019-01-16 L'oreal Composition anhydre solide comprenant une combinaison de cires
WO2018086005A1 (fr) * 2016-11-09 2018-05-17 L'oreal Composition présentant une sensation de refroidissement

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