WO2014097258A2

WO2014097258A2 - Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose

Info

Publication number: WO2014097258A2
Application number: PCT/IB2013/061213
Authority: WO
Inventors: Florence Levy; Léonora HENAULT-MEZAIZE; Florence Lahousse; Emilie HENIN
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2012-12-20
Filing date: 2013-12-20
Publication date: 2014-06-26
Also published as: WO2014097258A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to its total weight; (B) at least alkylcellulose, preferably in a proportion of at least 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in which the alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms and more particularly between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, and better still ethylcellulose; (C) at least a first non-volatile oil (C) chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils; (D) at least one stabilizer chosen from surfactants and/or hydrophilic gelling agents; and the said composition being free of or comprising a content of less than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to its total weight, of specific second hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E).

Description

Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose

The present invention is directed towards proposing cosmetic compositions comprising alkylcellulose, which are intended in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, and which are capable of producing a deposit, especially a makeup deposit, which shows good cosmetic properties, especially in terms of staying power, comfort and absence of tackiness.

The compositions targeted according to the invention are more particularly aqueous emulsions, especially oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, and preferably an oil- in-water emulsion.

In general, cosmetic compositions need to afford an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and/or the lips, and to maintain this aesthetic effect over time.

In point of fact, the production of an aesthetic effect, after applying a cosmetic composition, results from an assembly of cosmetic properties intrinsic to the composition which are expressed in terms of performance qualities such as the comfort on application and on wearing, the homogeneity, the absence of tackiness, the transfer resistance and/or the staying power of the deposit over time and/or the gloss of the deposit.

In particular, producing a composition that is homogeneous and stable over time (especially for at least one week at room temperature), and also improving the staying power or the transfer resistance over time of cosmetic products, once they have been applied to the skin or the lips, without any tackiness, is an ongoing concern of formulators. These objectives are particularly true in the field of makeup and in particular in the field of lipsticks, in stick form or in gloss form for the lips, and other skincare and/or lipcare products.

Ethylcellulose is known for its capacity, when it is dissolved in sufficient amount in cosmetic and/or therapeutic compositions, to enable the adherence of the resulting films.

Ethylcellulose, and alkylcelluloses in general (with an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms), unfortunately have limited solubility in the majority of the solvents commonly used in cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations. In general, monoalcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol, are preferred for dissolving sufficient amounts of ethylcellulose in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions. Evaporation of the C₂-C₈ monoalcohols leads, after application of the corresponding cosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, firstly to concentration of the deposit and secondly to the formation of a coat on the surface of the skin or the lips that has good staying power. For example, document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions especially comprising ethylcellulose dissolved in ethyl alcohol (SDA 38B-190 or SDA 40B-190 solvents).

However, these volatile monoalcohols have the drawback of being potentially irritant to the skin and/or the lips, and consequently may prove to be detrimental in the case of repeated use on the skin. However, when the presence of these compounds, especially such as ethanol, is dispensed with, this may prove to be detrimental in terms of the comfort and the tacky feel of the resulting deposit. Furthermore, the level of staying power of the deposit obtained may prove to be insufficient.

Consequently, the need remains for cosmetic compositions, free of C₂-C₈ monoalcohols, comprising alkylcellulose, which are capable of forming a deposit on keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, which is homogeneous and stable over time (especially for at least one week at room temperature) and which has good properties in terms of staying power, transfer resistance, comfort and/or gloss, and which has little or no tackiness.

More recently, document WO 2012/038879 has proposed an interesting alternative. However, the staying power, transfer resistance, gloss and/or tackiness of the deposits made with these compositions may still be improved upon.

There is more particularly a need for skin and/or lip makeup and/or care compositions, comprising alkylcellulose, which are homogeneous and stable over time (for example which do not form grains, do not undergo phase separation, and whose texture does not change) and easy to apply, and which make it possible to obtain a thin, light, fresh, homogeneous and comfortable deposit which in particular has no tackiness or whose level of tackiness remains acceptable to the user, and which has a good level of staying power and/or of transfer resistance, not giving a greasy feel, and which is preferably glossy or satiny.

In particular, it is sought to improve at least one makeup performance quality of the deposit obtained with a composition according to the invention, chosen from the staying power, the transfer resistance, the gloss and the absence of tackiness.

The object of the present invention is, precisely, to satisfy these needs. Thus, according to a first of its aspects, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to its total weight;

(B) at least alkylcellulose, preferably in a proportion of at least 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in which the alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms and more particularly between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, and better still ethylcellulose;

(C) at least a first non-volatile oil (C) chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils;

(D) at least one stabilizer chosen from surfactants and/or hydrophilic gelling agents; and

the said composition being free of octyldodecanol or comprising an octyldodecanol content of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight.

According to a first embodiment variant, the composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least a third additional hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil (F), different from the hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E), and as defined below.

According to a second embodiment variant, the composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one solid fatty substance (H) chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, and as defined below.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of or comprises a total content of C10-C26 alcohols of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of or comprises a content of less than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to its total weight, of second hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E) chosen from:

- C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

- optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C2-C8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol;

- esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and

- mixtures thereof. As emerges from the example presented below, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of ethylcellulose with an oily system different from the one considered in document WO 2012/038 879 and containing, on the other hand, less than 4% by weight of hydrocarbon-based non- volatile oil(s) chosen from:

- C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

- optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C2-C8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a Oi-Cs alcohol;

- esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids, makes it possible to obtain a stable, homogeneous composition whose cosmetic properties differ especially by the production of a deposit which has an improved level of staying power and/or of transfer resistance, while at the same time being comfortable and not tacky.

Furthermore, the deposit obtained with the compositions according to the invention is thin, light and fresh, in particular, has no greasy feel and no tackiness or whose level of tackiness remains acceptable to the user.

Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is homogeneous, stable over time (especially after one week at room temperature), easy to apply to keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous deposit, which has good properties in terms of staying power and/or transfer resistance, comfort (the deposit is thin, light, fresh and has little or no tackiness) and/or satisfactory gloss.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is easy to apply, and can lead to precise application of makeup to the contours of the lips.

Furthermore, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageous by virtue of its novel architecture, in particular with regard to conventionally marketed lip products, in that it effectively has, unlike the compositions described in WO 2012/038 879, a "very aqueous" (as opposed to oily) and fluid texture (in particular when the composition is in liquid form), the deposit obtained being very light and fresh.

A composition according to the invention also proves to be particularly suitable for using water-soluble dyes, especially water-soluble dyes that are suitable for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and better still the lips.

A composition according to the invention comprises at least 4% by weight (solids) of alkylcellulose (preferentially of ethylcellulose), relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 4% to 60% by weight (solids) of alkylcellulose (preferably of ethylcellulose), especially from 4% to 50% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 5% to 20%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in solid form.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" is intended to denote a composition whose hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm^"1 when measured according to the protocol described below, and for which it is possible to measure a viscosity.

According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in liquid form.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid" (or "fluid") is intended to denote a composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight, at room temperature (at 20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), as opposed to being solid.

In particular, the term "liquid" means a fluid texture, i.e. which may especially be in creamy or pasty form.

Protocol for measuring the viscosity:

The viscosity measurement is generally performed at 20°C, using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2 or 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 rpm.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may have at 25°C a viscosity of between 0.2 and 25 Pa.s and preferably between 1 and 20 Pa.s.

Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 2 and 17 Pa.s.

In particular, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.2 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 25 Pa.s (spindle 4), preferably between 1 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 17 Pa.s (spindle 4) and better still between 1 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 12 Pa.s (spindle 4). As indicated previously, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion and preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lipstick, especially a liquid lipstick, or a lip gloss.

The compositions according to the invention may especially be in gloss form, intended for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and better still the lips.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), in particular less than 4% by weight, especially less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight and in particular less than 1% by weight, or even is totally free of silicone surfactant.

According to another of its aspects, a subject of the present patent application is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the lips and/or the skin, better still the lips, comprising at least one step that consists in applying to the said keratin materials at least one composition as defined previously.

ETHYLCELLULOSE

A composition according to the invention comprises at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, and better still a composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is other than methylcellulose. Thus, preferably, its alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content (solids) ranging from 4% to 60% by weight.

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 4% by weight of alkylcellulose (preferably whose alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose), may especially comprise from 4% to 50% by weight of solids of alkylcellulose, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition.

The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain formed from β- anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:

RONa + C₂H₅C1 - ROC₂H₅ + NaCl, in which R represents a cellulose radical.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose may be chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose may be ethylcellulose.

It is a cellulose ethyl ether.

Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to a content of alkoxy groups of 54.88%.

The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferentially polymers with a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.

According to a preferred mode, the alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose) may be used in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, like a dispersion of latex or pseudolatex type. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

The product sold by the company FMC Biopolymer under the name Aquacoat ECD-30, which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose in a proportion of about 26.2% by weight in water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol, is most particularly suitable for use as an aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose.

According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product Aquacoat ECD-30, may be used in a proportion of from 3% to 90% by weight, in particular from 10% to 60% by weight and preferably from 20% to 50% by weight of ethylcellulose dispersion relative to the total weight of the composition.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM

Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, for instance water, oils other than those indicated above or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

The physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable tolerance, toxicology and feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be conditioned.

FATTY PHASE

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase and especially a liquid fatty phase, comprising at least a first non-volatile silicone oil and/or fluoro oil (C), and is free of or comprises a content of less than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition, of a second particular non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (E), as indicated previously.

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

NON- VOLATILE SILICONE OIL AND/OR FLUORO OIL ( C)

A composition according to the invention comprises at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils (C).

The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

Preferably, the first non-volatile oil(s) chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils (C) are present in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 5% to 60% by weight and better still from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of first non- volatile silicone oils and/or fluoro oil(s) (C) ranging from 10% to 40% by weight and better still from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase of the said composition.

Non-volatile silicone oil

According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil (C) is a silicone oil.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom.

The non-volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen especially from silicone oils especially with a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10^"6 m²/s) and less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt and preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.

According to a first embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is a nonphenyl silicone oil.

The non- volatile nonphenyl silicone oil may be chosen from:

- non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS),

- PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,

- PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluoro group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and

- mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may contain at least one non-phenyl silicone oil, in particular such as a linear (i.e. non-cyclic) oil.

Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenyl linear silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula (I):

(I)

in which:

Ri, R₂, R₅ and 5 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10^"6 m²/s) and 800 000 cSt.

As non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) for which:

- the substituents Ri to 5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,

- the substituents Ri to 5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,

- the substituents Ri to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning,

- the substituents Ri to Re represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive.

According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil (C) is a phenyl silicone oil.

Representative examples of these non-volatile phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include:

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

R

I R R

R— Si O

R O Si- -R

R I R I Si

I R

R— Si-

R (I)

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

R R R

I I I

R Si O Si O Si R

I I I

R R R (II) in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be used. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes;

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

Ph Ph Ph

/ /

Me- -Si- - Me

\ \

Ph Ph (III)

in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: l,3,5-trimethyl-l, l,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used;

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH₂- CH(CH₃)(Ph).

the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below:

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group -OSiMe₃ and y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and 1000, such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil.

According to a first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold especially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker. According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid,

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0;

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof:

(VII) in which: - Ri to R5, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, Ri to R5, independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and in particular C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.

Ri to 5 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 may apply, in formula

(VII);

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical,

- n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and

- m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.

In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio defined previously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially of C2-C20, in particular C3-C16 and more particularly C4-C10, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C₆- Ci4 and especially C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined previously.

Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, use may be made of a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt).

As phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII), it is in particular possible to use phenyl tnmethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, in particular Belsil PDMI OOO (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C;

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:

(IX)

in which:

Ri, R-2, R-5 and P 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R-3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.

The phenyl silicones are preferably chosen from phenyl tnmethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the phenyl silicones are chosen from phenyl tnmethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.

As preferred non-volatile silicone oils, examples that may be mentioned include silicone oils such as:

- phenyl silicones (also known as phenyl silicone oil) such as trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MW = 9000 g/mol) (cf. formula (V) above), phenyl trimethicones (such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf. formula (III) above),

non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the first non-volatile oil is a phenyl silicone oil.

Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones.

Non-volatile fluoro oil

According to a second embodiment, the first non-volatile oil (C) is a fluoro oil.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

The fluoro oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds. According to the invention, the term "perfluoro compounds" means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.

As examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and especially the Fiflow® products sold by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, use may be made of the fluoro oil whose INCI name is Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile silicone oils (preferably phenyl silicone oils) and/or nonvolatile fluoro oils, in a proportion of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 5% to 75% by weight and particularly preferably from 10% to 45% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, the said first non-volatile oil (C) may be chosen from phenyl silicone oils and fluoro oils, in particular trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention does not comprise any non-volatile oils other than the non-volatile silicone oils and/or fluoro oils described above. In particular, according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

SECOND NON- VOLATILE HYDROCARBON-BASED OIL( S) (E)

The composition according to the invention comprises a total content of octyldodecanol of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise a content of octyldodecanol ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of octyldodecanol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of C10-C26 alcohols of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of C10-C26 alcohols ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of C10-C26 alcohols.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of less than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to its total weight, of one or more second hydrocarbon-based non- volatile oil(s) (E) chosen from:

- C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

- esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of second hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E) ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the said second hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E) being chosen from.

- C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

- esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and - mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 3% by weight of hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E), in particular less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of hydrocarbon-based non- volatile oil(s) (E) relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of second nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (E), the said second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (E) being chosen from:

- C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

- esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and

- mixtures thereof.

According to another particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise octyldodecanol, the C10-C26 alcohols or the said second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (E) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (E).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "second oil (E)" more particularly takes into consideration oils chosen from:

- C10-C26 monoalcohols;

- optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol;

- optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol;

- optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C2-C8 tricarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol;

- esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, Si, F and P. The hydrocarbon-based oil is thus different from a silicone oil or a fluoro oil.

In the present case, these oils comprise at least one oxygen atom.

In particular, the second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (E) according to the invention may comprise at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") and/or at least one ester function (it is then an "ester oil").

The ester oils may especially be hydroxylated.

According to a first embodiment, the second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (E) is an ester oil. In particular, this ester oil (E) may be chosen especially from:

- optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol,

- optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate or diisostearyl adipate,

- optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C2-C8 tricarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate,

- esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids, such as triacetin.

The oils (E) include saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, in particular monoalcohols and generally fatty alcohols.

Representative examples of these fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for instance alcohols originating from vegetable material (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal material (tallow, etc.). The term "oil (E)" also takes into consideration ether alcohols or Guerbet alcohols, certain more or less long fractions of alcohols of natural origin, for instance coconut (C₁₂ to C₁₆) or tallow (C₁₆ to C₁₈) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols covered by the second oils (E), mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, a composition according to the invention is free of octyldodecanol.

THIRD ADDITIONAL OIL( S) (F)

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least a third additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil (F), different from the second hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E).

Preferably, the third additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) may be a polar oil.

Preferably, the third hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) comprise at least one alcohol function and/or at least one ester function and/or at least one carbonate function, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the third hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) comprise at least one alcohol function and/or at least one ester function, and mixtures thereof.

According to this embodiment, the third additional hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil(s) (F) may preferably be chosen from:

alcohol oils comprising at least 27 carbon atoms, preferably diisostearyl malate; ester oils obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms; ester oils obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms; ester oils comprising at least 23 carbon atoms;

oils comprising at least one carbonate function; and

mixtures thereof.

The term "alcohol oil" means an oil comprising at least one alcohol function. In particular, such an oil may be monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated.

The term "ester oil" means an oil comprising at least one ester function. In particular, such an oil may be a monoester, a diester, a triester or a tetraester, for example.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (F) in a total content ranging from 1% to 75% by weight and preferably from 5% to 75% by weight relative to its total weight.

According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (F) in a total content ranging from 10% to 50% by weight relative to its total weight.

According to yet another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (F) in a content ranging from 20% to 45% by weight relative to its total weight.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the third additional nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil (F) and the alkylcellulose (in particular ethylcellulose) may be used in the composition according to the invention in a "third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (F)/alkylcellulose" weight ratio of between 1 and 20 and preferably between 2 and 15.

Particularly preferably, the "third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (F)/alkylcellulose" weight ratio may be between 3 and 10.

1. Alcohol oil comprising at least 27 carbon atoms

According to a first particular embodiment, the third additional hydrocarbon- based non-volatile oil(s) (F) may be an alcohol oil comprising at least 27 carbon atoms.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the alcohol oil comprising at least 27 carbon atoms may be chosen from:

monohydroxylated oils, preferably chosen from poly(2-glyceryl triisostearate), 2- octyldodecyl hydroxy stearate; glyceryl diisostearate; diisostearyl malate; and mixtures thereof;

dihydroxylated oils, preferably chosen from poly(2-glyceryl diisostearate), esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula HO-R^-OCO-R^COO-R^_h-OH, in which R¹ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid, R² represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, especially such as the dilinoleic diacid esters of dilinoleic diol dimers sold, for example, by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5^® and DD-DA7^®, and mixtures thereof;

- trihydroxylated oils, preferably chosen from castor oil; and

mixtures thereof.

Preferably, and as indicated above, the alcohol oil comprising at least 27 carbon atoms may advantageously be diisostearyl malate.

This embodiment may be advantageous, in particular if it is desired to improve the gloss properties of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention, especially on the skin and/or the lips.

2 Ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms According to a second preferred embodiment, the third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (F) may be an ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be chosen from Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), C₁₂ to C₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of more than 10 carbon atoms, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate; diisostearyl malate; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be chosen from monoesters.

Preferably, the ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be chosen from neopentanoic acid esters, preferably chosen from 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and diisostearyl malate, and mixtures thereof.

This embodiment may be advantageous, in particular if it is desired to improve the gloss and/or transfer resistance properties of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention, especially on the skin and/or the lips. 3 Ester oil obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms According to a third embodiment, the third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon- based oil(s) (F) may be an ester oil obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the ester oil obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be chosen from 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, and mixtures thereof.

4 Ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms

According to a fourth embodiment, the third additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (F) may be an ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms and preferably at least 30 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the third additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) may be an ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms, chosen from:

- optionally hydroxylated monoester oils, comprising at least 23 carbon atoms,

- optionally hydroxylated diester, triester or tetraester oils, comprising at least 23 carbon atoms,

- polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol;

- esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid;

- vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymers,

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils,

- unsaturated triglycerides,

- sucrose esters, preferably sucrose diacetate hexaisobutyrate, and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms may be chosen from: - optionally hydroxylated monoesters comprising between 23 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular the monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R₂ > 22, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), jojoba oil, C₁₂ to C₁₅ alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, they are esters of formula RiCOOR₂ in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R₂ > 24. Preferably, the ester comprises between 25 and 40 carbon atoms in total.

Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include oleoyl erucate and/or neopentanoic acid esters, preferably chosen from octyldodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof;

- optionally hydroxylated diesters, especially comprising between 30 and 70 carbon atoms in total, preferably those chosen from glyceryl di-iso-stearate; diisostearyl malate; poly(2-glyceryl diisostearate); and mixtures thereof;

- optionally hydroxylated triesters, especially comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, preferably those chosen from tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as poly(2-glyceryl triisostearate);

- optionally hydroxylated tetraesters, especially with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, preferably those chosen from pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2- decyl)tetradecanoate, poly(2-glyceryl tetraisostearate) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2- decyl)tetradecanoate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

- esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular those of general formula HO-R¹-(-OCO-R²-COO-R¹-)_h-OH, in which R¹ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid, R² represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, especially such as the dilinoleic diacid esters of dilinoleic diol dimers sold, for example, by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®, and mixtures thereof;

- vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also known as Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol),

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (which are liquid at room temperature), especially of fatty acids containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil. Mention may be made in particular of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and Cis-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24 sold by Stearineries Dubois,

- unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil and pracaxi oil;

- sucrose esters, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon esters of sucrose and of a C₂-C6 carboxylic acid, in particular those chosen from mixtures of esters of acetic acid and of isobutyric acid with sucrose, preferably sucrose diacetate hexakis(2-methylpropanoate), especially the compound whose INCI name is Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (sold especially under the reference Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by the company Eastman Chemicals) and the compounds of INCI name Sucrose polysoyate sold under the reference Crodaderm S by the company Croda, sucrose polybehenate sold under the reference Crodaderm B by the company Croda, sucrose polycottonseedate sold under the reference Crodaderm C by the company Croda; and mixtures thereof; and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, according to one embodiment, the ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms is chosen from optionally hydroxylated monoesters. This embodiment may be advantageous, in particular if it is desired to improve the staying power and/or transfer resistance and/or tack resistance properties of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention, especially on the skin and/or the lips.

According to another embodiment, the ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms is chosen from optionally hydroxylated diesters, especially comprising between 30 and 70 carbon atoms in total, preferably chosen from glyceryl di-iso-stearate; diisostearyl malate; poly(2-glyceryl diisostearate); and mixtures thereof. This embodiment may be advantageous, in particular if it is desired to improve the gloss and/or transfer resistance properties of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention, especially on the skin and/or the lips.

5 Oil comprising at least one carbonate function

According to a fifth embodiment, the third additional hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil(s) (F) may be an oil comprising at least one carbonate function.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the oil comprising at least one carbonate function may be chosen from caprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the reference Cetiol CC by Cognis, diethylhexyl carbonate, for example sold under the reference Tegosoft DEC by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt Personal Care, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of non-volatile oils (i.e. all the non-volatile oils of the composition, irrespective of their nature) of between 5% and 80% by weight, preferably between 10% and 75% by weight, in particular between 20% and 80% by weight and better still between 40% and 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of non-volatile oils (i.e. all the non-volatile oils of the composition, irrespective of their nature) of between 15% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oils (i.e. all the non-volatile oils of the composition, irrespective of their nature) and the alkylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention in a non-volatile oil(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio of between 0.3 and 20, preferably between 1 and 15 and better still between 5 and 10.

ADDITIONAL NON- VOLATILE OILS (G)

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least a fourth additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil (G) different from the hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E) and (F) described previously.

Preferably, the additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (G) are chosen from:

- hydrocarbon-based non-volatile apolar oils;

- hydrocarbon-based non-volatile polar oils chosen from monoesters comprising less than 23 carbon atoms in total; and

- mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 6_a, is equal to 0 (J/cm )^1/2.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the paper by CM. Hansen: "The three- dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 6D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ_ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 6_h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and

- 6_a is determined by the equation: δ₃= (δ_ρ ² + 6_h ²)^½.

The parameters δ_ρ, 5_h, 6D and 6_a are expressed in (J/cm )^½

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free of oxygen atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

- liquid petroleum jelly,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol),

- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,

- and mixtures thereof.

The hydrocarbon-based non-volatile apolar oils may be chosen from:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

- liquid petroleum jelly,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutylenes,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes,

- decene/butene copolymers and polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based non-volatile polar oils chosen from monoesters comprising less than 23 carbon atoms in total may be featured by isononyl isononanoate.

Additional volatile oils

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional volatile oil.

Preferably, the said volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and/or volatile fluoro oils.

The additional volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably apolar, or a fluoro oil.

According to a first embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a silicone oil and may be chosen especially from silicone oils with a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably with a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from 65°C to 95°C.

As additional volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10^"6 m²/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a fluoro oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a hydrocarbon- based oil, which is preferably apolar. The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may have a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably ranging from 40°C to 55°C and preferentially ranging from 40°C to 50°C.

The additional hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may especially be chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:

- branched C₈-Ci₆ alkanes such as C₈-Ci₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,

- linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (CI 2) and n-tetradecane (CI 4) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl l) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the additional volatile oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and especially from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Advantageously, the composition contains less than 10% by weight of monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably less than 5% by weight.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition may be free of monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of additional volatile oil.

STABILIZER (Ό)

As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one stabilizer chosen from surfactants and/or hydrophilic gelling agents.

According to a particular embodiment, the stabilizer (D) may be a surfactant.

According to another particular embodiment, the stabilizer (D) may be a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from optionally modified polymers of natural origin. Preferably, the composition is such that the stabilizer is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition is such that the surfactant is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition is such that the hydrophilic gelling agent (preferably an optionally modified polymer of natural origin) is present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may contain an emulsifying system comprising one or more surfactants that are especially present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, or even 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, when the composition comprises a surfactant, it may be present in a content such that the total content of non-volatile oils/content of surfactant(s) weight ratio is between 1 and 40, preferably between 5 and 35 and better still between 8 and 25.

An emulsifying surfactant appropriately chosen to obtain an aqueous emulsion in particular of oil-in-water type is preferably used.

In particular, an emulsifying surfactant having at 25°C an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin sense of greater than or equal to 8 may be used.

An emulsifying surfactant having at 25°C an HLB balance (hydrophilic- lipophilic balance) within the Griffin sense of less than 8 may also be used.

The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably nonionic surfactants. Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based surfactant.

Examples of hydrocarbon-based surfactants that are suitable for use in the invention are described below.

Non-ionic surfactants

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen especially from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

1) Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples that may be mentioned include stearate 40 EO, stearate 50 EO, stearate 100 EO, laurate 20 EO, laurate 40 EO and di stearate 150 EO.

2) Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth 100 and beheneth 100.

3) Oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, alcohols that are preferably used include those which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular containing from 20 to 100 oxy ethylene units, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially of C₈-C₂4 and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈, such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-20) such as Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30) and the mixture of C₁₂-C₁₅ fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: C_12-15 Pareth-7), such as the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7 by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) alcohols containing from 1 to 15 oxy ethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C₈-C24, preferably C₁₂-C₁₈, fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-2), such as Brij 72, sold by the company Uniqema;

4) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as the product Tween 20 sold by the company Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO, or the Cremophor products (RH 40, RH 60, etc.) from BASF. Non- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters that may preferably be used include a mixture of sorbitan stearate and of sucrose cocoate, preferably the product sold under the reference Arlatone 2121U from Croda.

5) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.

6) Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are preferably used include those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 and especially 1 , 2 or 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (alkyl-Cg/Cn- polyglucoside (1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 371 1® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 1 10® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof. More generally, the surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type are defined more specifically hereinbelow.

7) Examples of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose that may be mentioned include Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, and the products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for instance sucrose palmitate sold under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA1695 or Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570.

8) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.

9) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include Nikkol batyl alcohol 100 and Nikkol chimyl alcohol 100.

Anionic surfactants

The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 and especially C12-C20 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates, and mixtures thereof.

1) Examples of alkyl ether sulfates that may be mentioned include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C_12-14) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS225 or Texapon N702 by the company Henkel, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C_12-14) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Henkel, ammonium (C₁₂-C₁₄) alkyl ether (9 EO) sulfate sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of sodium magnesium lauryl oleyl ether sulfate sold under the name Empicol BSD 52 by the company Albright & Wilson.

2) Examples of carboxylates that may be mentioned include salts (for example alkali metal salts) of N-acylamino acids, glycol carboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts.

The surfactant of glycol carboxylate type may be chosen from alkyl glycol carboxylates or 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetate), salts thereof and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylics comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic and/or aromatic alkyl chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylics may be neutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.

Examples of surfactants of glycol carboxylic type that may be mentioned include sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or sodium 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetate) such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa® by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA- 25N® or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form)®.

An example of an amido ether carboxylate (AEC) that may be mentioned is sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO) sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by the company Kao Chemicals.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C_12-14-16) sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by the company Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids of olive oil origin sold under the name Olivem 400® by the company Biologia e Tecnologia, and oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6 NEX® by the company Nikkol.

3) Amino acid derivatives that may especially be mentioned include alkali metal salts of amino acids, such as:

- sarcosinates, for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L30® by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by the company Nikkol, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by the company Nikkol;

- alaninates, for instance sodium N-lauroyl N-methyl amidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN30® by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by the company Kawaken, and triethanolamine N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine sold under the name Alanone Alta® by the company Kawaken;

- glutamates, for instance triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12^® by the company Ajinomoto, or triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12^® by the company Ajinomoto.

The glutamic acid salts and/or derivatives are described more specifically hereinbelow. - aspartates, for instance the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack^® by the company Mitsubishi;

- glycine derivatives (glycinates), for instance the sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12^® and Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto;

- citrates, such as the oxyethylenated (9 mol) citric monoester of cocoyl alcohols sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt;

- galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl-D-galactoside uronate sold by the company Soliance.

4) Examples of sulfonates that may be mentioned include α-olefin sulfonates, for instance the sodium a-olefin sulfonate (C_14-16) sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40^® by the company Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege^® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG^® by the company Stepan, the sodium secondary olefin sulfonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30^® by the company Clariant.

5) Isethionates that may be mentioned include acylisethionates, for instance sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P^® by the company Jordan.

6) Taurates that may be mentioned include the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate^® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N- methyltaurates, for instance the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF^® by the company Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T^® by the company Nikkol, and the sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT^® by the company Nikkol.

7) Examples of sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol monosulfo succinate (70/30 C₁₂/C₁₄) sold under the names Setacin 103 Special^® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4^® by the company Witco, the disodium salt of a C₁₂-C₁₄ alkyl hemisulfosuccinate, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste^® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135^® by the company Henkel, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) laurylamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Lebon A- 5000 by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 EO) disodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50^® by the company Witco, and the ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333^® by the company Witco. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfo succinates may also be used, such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate-DC30 by the company Maclntyre.

8) Examples of alkyl sulfoacetates that may be mentioned include the mixture of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and disodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan-Mild LSB by the company Stepan.

9) Examples of phosphates and alkyl phosphates that may be mentioned include monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as the lauryl monophosphate sold under the name MAP 20^® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of monoester and diester (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31^® by the company Cognis, the mixture of octylphosphoric acid monoester and diester sold under the name Crafol AP-20^® by the company Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) phosphoric acid monoester and diester of 2- butyloctanol, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester^® by the company Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(Ci₂-Ci₃)alkyl phosphate sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40^® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60^® by the company Uniqema, the potassium lauryl phosphate sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09^® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium cetyl phosphate sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by the company Uniqema.

10) The polypeptides are obtained, for example, by condensation of a fatty chain onto amino acids from cereals and especially from wheat and oat. Examples of polypeptides that may be mentioned include the potassium salt of hydrolysed lauroyl wheat protein, sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of hydrolysed cocoyl soybean protein, sold under the name May-Tein SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl oat amino acids, sold under the name Proteol Oat by the company SEPPIC, collagen hydrolysate grafted onto coconut fatty acid, sold under the name Geliderm 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, and soybean proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name Proteol VS 22 by the company SEPPIC. 11) as metal salts of C10-C30 and especially C12-C20 fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of metal stearates, such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate, and also polyhydroxystearates.

Cationic surfactants

The cationic surfactants may be chosen from:

- alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulfate,

- ammonium salts such as (C_12-30 alkyl)tri(Ci-4 alkyl)ammonium halides, for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant as stabilizer, preferably chosen from sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, in particular non-polyoxyethylenated, and better still a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, preferably the product sold under the reference Arlatone 2121U from Croda.

According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one silicone surfactant. Examples that may be mentioned include:

a) as nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made especially of:

- dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Q2-5220^® by the company Dow Corning;

- dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as that sold under the names Finsolv SLB 101^® and 201^® by Fintex;

b) as nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, mention may be made especially of: - the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2- 3225C^® by the company Dow Corning.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), in particular less than 4% by weight, especially less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight and in particular less than 1% by weight, or even may be totally free of silicone surfactant.

Hydrophilic gelling agents

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" or "polymer for gelling the aqueous phase" means a polymer that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling polymer that may be used according to the invention may especially be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C*, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (μ = 1 Hz) by a flow threshold T_c at least equal to 10

Pa. This concentration C* may vary widely according to the nature of the gelling polymer under consideration.

By way of illustration, this concentration is between 1% and 2% by weight for an acryl ami de/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer as an inverse emulsion at 40% in polysorbate 80/I-C16, for instance the product sold under the name Simulgel 600 by the company SEPPIC, and is about 0.5% by weight for an AMPS/ethoxylated (25 EO) cetearyl methacrylate copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) of the type such as Aristoflex HMS.

The gelling polymer may be present in the composition in an amount that is sufficient to adjust the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25°C) of the composition to a value greater than or equal to 10 000 Pa and especially ranging from 10 000 Pa to 100 000 Pa. The method for measuring the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25°C) of the composition is described in greater detail hereinbelow. The gelling polymer is a hydrophilic polymer and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

More particularly, this gelling polymer may be chosen from:

- acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts and esters thereof, and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylic acids of the type such as Synthalen K, and salts, especially the sodium salt, of polyacrylic acids (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride) sold under the name Luvigel EM by the company

- copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof under the names Reten by the company Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F by the company Henkel;

- polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; the copolymers most particularly preferred according to the present invention are acrylate/Cio-C3o-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/Cio-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TRl, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2;

- AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked), sold by the company Clariant,

- AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of Sepigel or Simulgel type sold by the company SEPPIC, and

- polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the type such as Aristoflex HMS sold by the company Clariant;

- and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be mentioned include: - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; - cellulose polymers, other than alkylcellulose, chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;

- vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

- optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:

galactomannans and derivatives thereof, such as konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gums and derivatives thereof, preferably chosen from guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methyl carboxy late groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride, and xanthan derivatives;

alginates and carrageenans;

glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;

deoxyribonucleic acid;

mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts and esters thereof, polyacrylic acids and polyacrylic acid salts, or mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid, especially a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from optionally modified polymers of natural origin.

Preferably, the optionally modified polymers of natural origin are chosen from guar gums and derivatives thereof, preferably chosen from guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) and hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride. According to a particular embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from polymers of natural origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Associative anionic polymers

Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned are those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is formed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH₂ = C(R')CH₂ O B_n R (I)

in which R' denotes H or CH₃, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned are maleic anhydride/C₃o-C₃8 α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride/C₃o-C₃8 α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies.

Among the associative anionic polymers, it is possible, according to one preferred embodiment, to use copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,β- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α,β- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol. Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn 22 sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (comprising 20 OE units) terpolymer or Aculyn 28 (methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (25 OE) terpolymer).

Examples of associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned include anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of the type such as a (C₁₀-C₃₀) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid. Examples that may be mentioned include the anionic polymers described and prepared according to patents US-3 915 921 and 4 509 949.

Cationic associative polymers

Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

- quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,

- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine side groups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such as steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol).

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529- 18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C₁₂ alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Examples of polyacrylates bearing amino side chains that may be mentioned are the polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the company National Starch.

Nonionic associative polymers

The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

- celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially of C₈-C₂₂, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon,

- celluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol,

- guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,

- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers,

- copolymers of Ci-C₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain,

- copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methaciylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,

- associative polyurethanes.

Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature (polyurethanes may also be referred to as polyurethane polyethers), and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisioned. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers, in triblock or multiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example: multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxy ethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.

According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of polyurethane type is used as gelling agent.

By way of example of polyurethane polyethers that may not be used in the invention, mention may be made of the polymer C16-OE120-C16 from the company Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, which is a molecule containing a urethane function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit.

Rheolate 205 bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208 or 204, or alternatively Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis, may also be used as associative polyurethane polymer. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form. The product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FXlOlO, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible to use the products Aculyn 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methyl carboxy late groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride,

- vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol,

- anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid, such as the non- crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas,

- nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type, such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

According to another preferred variant, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from:

- optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methyl carboxy late groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride,

Amphoteric associative polymers

Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranched amphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by copolymerization

1) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

in which R4 and R₅, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R6, R₇ and R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Z represents an H group or an oxygen atom,

n is an integer from 2 to 5,

A^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

^R10

in which R₉ and Rio, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

Zi represents a group OH or a group HC(CH₃)₂CH₂S0₃H;

3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):

0

R₉

^R10

in which R₉ and Rio, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and Rn denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) possibly being quaternized, for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by:

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,

- diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate,

- dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,

- dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacry 1 ami dopropy ltrimethy 1 ammonium chl oride .

The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by C12-C22 and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from Ν,Ν'- methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n- methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.

The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers have a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 500, preferably between 10 000 and 10 000 000 and even more preferentially between 100 000 and 8 000 000. Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 mol% to 99 mol%, more preferentially from 20 mol% to 95 mol% and even more preferentially from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 mol% to 80 mol%, more preferentially from 5 mol% to 80 mol% and even more preferentially from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound(s) of formula (V). The content of compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol% and 70 mol%, more preferentially between 1 mol% and 50 mol% and even more preferentially between 1 mol% and 10 mol%. The crosslinking or branching agent, when it is present, is preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 1 mol% and even more preferentially between 0.0001 mol% and 0.1 mol%.

Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges from 20/80 to 95/5 and more preferentially from 25/75 to 75/25.

The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention are described, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

The gelling polymer(s) for the aqueous phase, and in particular the associative polymers, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total active material content ranging from 0.1% to 10% and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that this amount is moreover liable to vary depending on whether the said polymer is or is not combined with an ionic and/or nonionic surfactant and/or a film-forming agent (other than alkylcellulose and in particular ethylcellulose), which are themselves also capable of acting on the consistency of the said composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the stabilizer (D) may be a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from optionally modified polymers of natural origin, preferably such as optionally modified guar gums. SOLID FATTY SUBSTANCE (Ή)

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one solid fatty substance (H) chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of solid fatty substances (H) of less than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Even more preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of solid fatty substance ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 1% to 10%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the solid fatty substance is hydrocarbon- based.

Wax(es)

According to a first embodiment, the solid fatty substance is a wax.

Thus, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C.

The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from solid waxes that may or may not be deformable at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis(l,l, l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, and bis(l, l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.

The waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of plant oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, for instance the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably of low melting point.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric).

The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (Goldschmidt), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (W acker), and also (C20-C60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C30-C45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes modified with silicone or fluoro groups, for instance: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and fluoro beeswax from Koster Keunen.

The waxes may also be chosen from fluoro waxes.

According to a first embodiment, candelilla wax is used.

According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax with a melting point of less than 65°C and preferably less than 63°C. Preferably, a hydrocarbon-based wax with a melting point of less than 65°C and preferably less than 63°C is used.

Such a wax may be chosen in particular from paraffin wax, stearyl alcohol, synthetic beeswax (especially the product sold under the reference Cyclochem 326 A by Evonik-Goldschmidt), palm butter, sumach wax, silicone-treated beeswax, stearyl stearate, alkyl dimethicone wax, certain polymethylene waxes (such as Cirebelle 303 sold by Cirebelle), berry wax, olive oil wax, lemon wax, ceresin wax (sold under the reference White Ceresin Wax JH 520 by the company Hansotech), and mixtures thereof.

According to an even more preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrogenated olive oil ester wax, preferably the product whose INCI name is Hydrogenated stearyl olive esters, for instance the product sold under the reference Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 from Sophim and the product whose INCI name is Hydrogenated myristoyl olive esters, especially such as the product sold under the reference Phytowax Olive 14L48 from Sophim.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of wax.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total wax content of between 0.1% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1%) and 20% by weight of wax(es), more particularly between 0.5% and 15% by weight and better still between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises a total wax content of between 0.1% and 10%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably when the composition is in liquid form.

Preferably, the composition comprises a total wax content of between 0.1%> and 5%> by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably when the composition is in liquid form.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a content of wax(es) with a melting point of less than 65°C ranging from 0.1%) to 15%) by weight, preferably from 0.1%> to 10%> by weight or even from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty fatty substance

According to a second embodiment, the solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance. This embodiment is particularly advantageous when it is desired to obtain a glossy or satiny deposit, for instance in the case of a lip makeup product, for instance a lipstick.

Thus, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty fatty substance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" means a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and which comprises, at a temperature of 23 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 °C preferably represents between 15% and 85% by weight and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or of a wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (depending on the case) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C, at the heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference between the power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the sample of paste or wax as a function of the temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23 °C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in the crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in the liquid form.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to Standard ISO 1 1357-3 : 1999. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy necessary to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 °C, constituted of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100% by weight and more preferably from 60% to 100%) by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32°C, is equal to 100%>, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 °C.

The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance may be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance may advantageously be chosen from:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, for instance polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular masses, polydimethylsiloxanes bearing side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones,

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular: - olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

- linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,

- homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols,

- esters and polyesters, and

- mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance may be a polymer, especially a hydrocarbon-based polymer.

A preferred silicone-based and fluorine-based pasty fatty substance is polymethyl trifluoropropyl methylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, sold under the name X22-1088 by Shin-Etsu.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, mention may be made especially of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5/95 to 70/30. In this family, mention will be made especially of block copolymers comprising C6-C30 alkylene oxide blocks with a molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or OE units) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are especially preferred:

- esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxy stearic acid, for instance those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; or alternatively which have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, cetylic acid and stearic acid, for instance those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Cremer 01 eo (and whose INCI name is Hydrogenated cocoglycerides):

- phytosterol esters;

- pentaerythritol esters;

- esters formed from:

- at least one Ci₆-4o alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol, and

- a diacid dimer formed from at least one Ci₈-4o unsaturated fatty acid, such as the ester of a dimer of fatty acids of tall oil comprising 36 carbon atoms and of a mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) of behenyl alcohol; the ester of a dimer of linoleic acid and of a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyloctadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyleicosanol (36 carbon atoms);

- non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,

- polyesters resulting from esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid ester, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H sold by the Japanese company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and

- aliphatic esters of an ester, resulting from esterification between an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example the product sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V)-L by the company Nisshin OilliO.

A Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction, which is well known to those skilled in the art. It is a reaction for transforming a primary aliphatic alcohol into its β-alkyl dimeric alcohol with loss of one equivalent of water.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched.

The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are advantageously derived from an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are especially chosen from:

a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

e) partial or total esters of C₂ to C₁₆ aliphatic polyols that have reacted with a monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid, f) and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic esters of an ester are advantageously chosen from:

- the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 1 (1/1), known as hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,

- the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 2 (1/2), known as hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate,

- the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 3 (1/3), known as hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate,

- and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of pasty fatty substance of between 0.1% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the pasty fatty substance(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight and especially from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, when a composition according to the invention is free of oil (E), the said composition may advantageously comprise a total content of solid fatty substances (waxes and/or pasty fatty substances) of less than or equal to 30%) by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise:

- from 4%) to 30%> by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose,

- from 15%) to 60%> by weight of water,

- from 5%) to 60%> by weight of non-volatile silicone oils (C), and

- from 0.1% to 30% by weight of stabilizer(s) (D),

relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the light of the foregoing text, according to a first embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise:

- from 4%) to 30%> by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose,

- from 15%) to 60%> by weight of water,

- from 5%) to 60%> by weight of non-volatile silicone oils (C),

- from 0.1%) to 30%> by weight of stabilizer(s) (D), and

- from 5%) to 75% by weight of third hydrocarbon-based non- volatile oil(s) (F). According to a second embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise:

- from 4%) to 30%> by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose,

- from 15%) to 60%> by weight of water,

- from 5%) to 60%> by weight of non-volatile silicone oils (C),

- from 0.1%) to 30%> by weight of stabilizer(s) (D), and

- from 0.5%) to 30%> by weight of solid fatty substance(s) (H) chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. Additional compound

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional compound chosen from fillers, semi-crystalline polymers and film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Fillers

A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature.

The term "filler" should be understood to mean colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, can give body or rigidity to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup. They are different from dyestuffs.

Among the fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyllysine, and fumed silica particles, optionally hydrophilic- or hydrophobic-treated, and mixtures thereof.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight and in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Semi-crystalline polymer

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one semi- crystalline polymer, in particular a semi-crystalline polymer of organic structure whose melting point is greater than or equal to 30°C.

Preferably, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer(s) represents from 2% to 20% by weight, for example from 3% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means compounds comprising at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units and more especially at least ten repeating units. For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion and having a first- order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the backbone.

When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block has a chemical nature different from that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain that is pendent on the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The terms "organic compound" and "having an organic structure" mean compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N or P, alone or in combination.

The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150°C.

The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 100°C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi- crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 70°C.

The semicrystalline polymer(s) according to the invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute. (The melting point under consideration is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).

The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point that is higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive the said composition, in particular the skin or the lips.

According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially to at least 1% by weight, at a temperature that is higher than their melting point. Apart from the crystallizable chains or blocks, the blocks of the polymers are amorphous. Within the meaning of the invention, the expression "crystallizable chain or block" is understood to mean a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, according to whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of the invention, a "chain" is a group of atoms, which is pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A block is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:

- homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s),

- polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block,

- polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,

- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis. The semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may in particular be chosen from:

- block copolymers of polyolefins of controlled crystallization, whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897,

- polycondensates, especially of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,

- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis,

- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, for instance those described in document US-A-5, 156,911,

- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular bearing fluoro group(s), such as those described in document WO-A-01/19333,

- and mixtures thereof.

Examples of semi-crystalline polymers that may be mentioned include those described in patent application WO 2010/010 301, the content of which is incorporated by reference. AQUEOUS PHASE

As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of water and preferably at least 10% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 80%) by weight, preferably from 10%> to 70% by weight, in particular from 15%> to 60%> by weight and better still from 20% to 50% by weight of water, relative to its total weight.

The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise, besides water, at least one water-soluble solvent.

The aqueous phase may constitute the continuous phase of the composition.

The term "composition with an aqueous continuous phase" means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 23 μ8/αη (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured, for example, using an MPC227 conductimeter from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition so as to remove the air bubbles that might be formed between the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading is taken once the conductimeter value has stabilized. A mean is determined on at least three successive measurements.

In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 -butyl ene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C₃ and C₄ ketones and C₂-C4 aldehydes.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms.

However, the content of aqueous phase indicated previously does not include the contents of each of the abovementioned compounds.

Active agents

The composition may also comprise at least one active agent chosen from moisturizers, cicatrizing agents and/or antiageing agents, for keratin materials, in particular for the skin and/or the lips, and better still for the lips.

According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials, in particular for the skin and/or the lips, and better still for the lips, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the said keratin materials.

Since the deposit made with a composition according to the invention has good staying power, this ensures the remanence of the active agent on the keratin materials and thus improves the care efficacy (moisturizing, cicatrizing and/or antiageing effect) on the said keratin materials.

Moisturizers

According to a first embodiment, the composition may also comprise at least one moisturizer (also known as a humectant).

Moisturizers or humectants that may especially be mentioned include sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably of C₂-C₈ and more preferably C3-C6, preferably such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof, urea and derivatives thereof, especially Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethylurea) sold by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives thereof, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by the company Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle- AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passion flower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestle under the name NutraLipids®; a C- glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051 828 and in particular C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SBB®; an oil of musk rose sold by Nestle; an extract of the microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc^®; spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

Use will preferably be made of a moisturizer chosen from glycerol, urea and derivatives thereof, especially Hydrovance® sold by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, acrylic acid homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation, β-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl β-glucan from Mibelle-AG- Biochemistry; a mixture of passion flower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestle under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051 828 and in particular C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40%) by weight) such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SBB^®; an oil of musk rose sold by Nestle; an extract of the microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc^®; spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

Cicatrizing agents

The active agent may also be chosen from cicatrizing agents.

Examples of cicatrizing agents that may especially be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids, for instance hydroxyproline, arginine, and serine, and also extracts of white lily (for instance Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast extract, (for instance the cicatrizing agent LS LO/7225B from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) (Cognis), tamanu oil, extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, for instance Biodynes^® TRF^® from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives, for instance chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract, for instance GP4G^® from Vincience, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and salts thereof, rose hip oil, marigold extracts, for instance Souci Ami^® Liposolible from Alban Muller, horsetail extracts, lemon peel extracts, for instance Herbasol^® citron from Cosmetochem, helichrysum extracts, common yarrow extracts, folic acid, β-glucan and derivatives, shea butter and purified fractions thereof, modified exopolysaccharides and alkylsulfone polyaminosaccharides .

Antiageing agents:

The active agent may also be chosen from antiageing agents, i.e. agents especially having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier, antiglycation agents, active agents that stimulate the energy metabolism of cells, and mixtures thereof.

The agent with a restructuring effect on the skin barrier may be chosen from an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Venuceane^® from Sederma, an extract of the rhizome of wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y^® from Active Organics, plankton extracts, for instance Omega Plankton^® from Secma, yeast extracts, for instance Relipidium^® from Coletica, a chestnut extract such as Recoverine^® from Silab, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen^® from Gattefosse, sphingosines, for instance salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine^® SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, polyxylityl glycoside and xylitan, for instance Aquaxyl^® from SEPPIC, extracts of Solanacea plants, for instance Lipidessence^® from Coletica, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made especially of ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier, mention will be made of an extract of Thermus thermophilus, an extract of the rhizome of wild yam (Dioscorea villosd), a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, and mixtures thereof.

The term "antigly cation agent" means a compound that prevents and/or reduces the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins such as collagen.

Examples of antiglycation agents include extracts of plants of the Ericacea family, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium), for example the product sold under the name Blueberry Herbasol Extract PG by the company Cosmetochem, ergothioneine and derivatives thereof, hydroxystilbenes and derivatives thereof, such as resveratrol and 3,3',5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these antiglycation agents are described in patent applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and derivatives thereof, polypeptides of arginine and of lysine such as the product sold under the name Amadorine^® by the company Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (sold by Exsymol under the name Alistin^®), an extract of Helianthus annuus, for instance Antiglyskin^® from Silab, wine extracts such as the extract of powdered white wine on a maltodextrin support sold under the name Vin blanc deshydrate 2F by the company Givaudan, thioctic acid (or a-lipoic acid), a mixture of extract of bearberry and of marine glycogen, for instance Aglycal LS 8777^® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques, and an extract of black tea, for instance Kombuchka^® from Sederma, and mixtures thereof.

The active agent for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells may be chosen, for example, from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, for instance Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc, copper and magnesium gluconate, such as Sepitonic M3® from SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof.

The active agents used in the compositions according to the invention may be hydrophilic or lipophilic.

Preferably, the composition may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent, chosen from moisturizers, cicatrizing agents and antiageing agents.

Specifically, since the composition according to the invention comprises water, this water lends itself particularly to the introduction of hydrophilic active agents into the composition, in particular without any problem of stability of the composition and/or of the active agent. This is particularly interesting, in particular in the context of lipcare. Specifically, the standard lipstick compositions known in the prior art, whether they are solid or liquid, rarely comprise water, and, if they do contain any, they are generally unstable over time (i.e. they undergo phase separation or exudation).

Preferably, the active agent may be chosen from: polyhydric alcohols, preferably of C₂-C8 and more preferably of C3-C6, preferably such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, and a mixture thereof, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, serine, collagen, a C-glycoside derivative and in particular C-β-ϋ- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40 wt%); spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (atelocollagen), hyaluronic acid spheres; ceramides, preferably such as ceramide V.

Preferably, the active agent content of the composition ranges from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic active agents.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional compounds and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.

Dyestuffs

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dyestuff Preferably, it may be chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or mineral dyestuffs, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuff means a compound that is capable of producing a coloured optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff.

The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-mi scible solvents and which is capable of colouring. In particular, the term "water- soluble" means the capacity of a compound to be dissolved in water, measured at 25°C, to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/1 (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/1.

As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).

As nonlimiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble dyestuffs that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, of beetroot, of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, of paprika, of henna, of caramel and of curcumin.

Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention are especially carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt oftartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are especially permitted for food use. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more particularly include dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes El 20, El 62, El 63, E160a-g, El 50a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

According to one preferred variant, the water-soluble dyestuff(s) that are to be transferred onto the skin and/or the lips intended to be made up are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to be compatible with impregnation into the substrate.

The water-soluble dyestuff(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble dyestuff(s) are chosen from the disodium salt of brilliant yellow FCF sold by the company LCW under the name DC Yellow 6, the disodium salt of fuchsin acid D sold by the company LCW under the name DC Red 33, and the trisodium salt of Rouge Allura sold by the company LCW under the name FD & C Red 40.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises only water-soluble dyes as dyestuffs.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the water-soluble dyestuffs described previously, one or more additional dyestuffs, especially such as pigments or nacres, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.

The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials). The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes, nacres, and pigments with an optical effect, for instance reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.

The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.

The organic pigments may be, for example:

- cochineal carmine,

- organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes and fluorane dyes;

- organic lakes or insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group;

- melanin-based pigments.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No. 6.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described especially in patent application EP- A-l 086 683.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "nacre" means coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye especially of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced as interference pigments into the first composition, mention may be made especially of the gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Usual additional cosmetic ingredients

A composition according to the invention may also comprise any common cosmetic ingredient, which may be chosen especially from antioxidants, additional film- forming polymers (lipophilic or hydrophilic) other than alkylcellulose and in particular other than ethylcellulose, fragrances, preserving agents, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, free-radical scavengers and sequestrants, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

A composition according to the invention may more particularly be a composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and better still the lips.

A composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick for the lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product or an antisun product.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in liquid form. As illustrations of liquid formulations, mention may be made especially of lip glosses and/or more generally liquid lipsticks.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is a liquid lipstick.

As indicated previously, a composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The composition according to the invention may be manufactured via the known processes generally used in cosmetics or dermatology.

It may be envisaged that, during the preparation process, after the necessary heating step to melt the fatty substance(s) present, especially the waxes, stirring of the composition is continued until it has returned to room temperature. The reason for this is that this makes it possible to obtain a fluid texture, even in the presence of a wax content which would produce a solid composition if the stirring were stopped sooner, i.e. as soon as a homogeneous mixture is obtained, and thus before the composition has returned to room temperature.

As stated previously, the composition according to the invention is homogeneous and gives access to a deposit that has good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of staying power, comfort (thin, light deposit) and absence of tackiness.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The terms "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

The examples and figures which follow are presented by way of illustration and without implied limitation of the invention.

EXAMPLES:

The following liquid lip compositions (lip glosses) comprise the starting materials indicated below. The evaluation protocols regarding the appearance of the compositions below, and also the homogeneity, the non-tacky nature, the transfer resistance properties, the staying power and the gloss of these compositions are described below.

Protocol for evaluating the tackiness:

A sample of the composition was applied to the lips so as to form a deposit of uniform thickness.

The tackiness was evaluated during drying of the formulation, 2 minutes after application at room temperature (25°C). To do this, a finger was applied, after the specified drying time, onto the deposit made with the composition to be evaluated, and the tack was assessed by the person on removal of his finger from the applied formulation.

Test for evaluating the transfer resistance:

A sample of the composition was applied to the lips using an applicator, in two passes. It was left to dry for 5 minutes and the person then placed a kiss on a sheet of white paper. The colour transfer was evaluated qualitatively by observing the amount of colour deposited.

Test for evaluating the staying power:

A sample of the composition was applied to the lips using an applicator, in two passes. After 1 hour, the quantity and quality of the product remaining on the lips was observed.

Example 1: liquid lip composition according to the invention (lip gloss)

The liquid lip composition 1 (liquid lipstick) below, in accordance with the present invention, comprises the starting materials indicated below and is obtained by performing the preparation protocol also described below. More particularly, composition 1 below illustrates a composition according to the present invention comprising compounds (A), (B), (C) and (D). Composition 1

according to the

COMPOUNDS (INCI name and commercial references)

invention

(weight%)*

Disodium salt of fuchsin acid D, disodium salt of tartrazine and

0.3

trisodium salt of Allura-Red

Phenoxyethanol 0.5

Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in water; sodium lauryl sulfate (1.3%)

and cetyl alcohol (2.5%) (Aquacoat ECD 30 from FMC 32.97*

Biopolymer)

Hydroxy propyl guar (Jaguar HP 105 from Rhodia) 0.2

Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone

23

(Wacker-Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker)

Non-denatured 96-degree ethyl alcohol 3

Water 36.03

Mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (Arlatone

4

2121U from Croda)

TOTAL 100

* Expressed as weight of commercial product.

Protocol for preparing composition 1 according to the invention

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose was mixed with water with stirring, and the mixture was heated for 1 to 2 hours at 55°C.

2) The surfactant and then the hydroxypropyl guar were added and the mixture was stirred at 55°C until homogeneous.

3) The non-volatile silicone oil was then added, with continued stirring at 55°C, until the mixture was homogeneous, and the heating was then stopped.

4) The dyes predissolved in water (3%) were then added.

5) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol were added with stirring.

6) The stirring was then stopped and the mixture was then packaged in heating sachets.

Result of the evaluations:

The above composition was applied to the lips and evaluated as described previously.

It is easy to apply; it is easy to deposit (glidant on application).

The deposit obtained is uniform, non-tacky and migrates very little. The makeup deposit obtained is thin and light and has a matt appearance on the lips, and also a good level of staying power, in particular of colour staying power. The deposit obtained does not give rise to any greasy feel and does not transfer.

Comparative lip composition 5 below (liquid lipstick), not in accordance with the present invention, comprises the starting materials indicated below and is obtained by performing the preparation protocol also described below.

* Expressed as weight of commercial product.

Protocol for preparing composition 5 outside the invention

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose was mixed with water and the hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) with stirring using a Rayneri blender, and the mixture was heated for 1 to 2 hours at 55°C.

3) The non-volatile silicone oil was then added, with continued stirring at 55°C, until the mixture was homogeneous, and the heating was then stopped. 4) The dyes predissolved in water (3.06%) were then added.

5) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol were added with stirring.

Tests for evaluating the tackiness (1), the transfer resistance (2) and the staying power (3) were then performed as described above.

Result of the evaluations:

It is in the form of a homogeneous fluid cream.

It is easy to apply, easy to deposit, uniform and glossy on the lips.

However, the makeup deposit obtained is thicker and greasier than that obtained with composition 1 according to the invention, slightly tacky and has a level of staying power, in particular of the colour, inferior to that obtained with composition 1 according to the invention.

Specifically, transfer is observed, especially of oil, from the deposit on the lips obtained with the comparative composition 5.

Example 2

Compositions 2 to 4 below illustrate compositions according to the present invention comprising compounds (A), (B), (C), (D) and (F).

Compositions 5 to 7 below are comparative compositions outside the invention.

Composition Composition Composition Comparative Comparative Comparative

INCI name

2 according 3 according 4 according composition 5 composition 6 composition 7 and

to the to the to the outside the outside the outside the commercial

invention invention invention invention invention invention references

(weight%) (weight%) (weight%) (weight%) (weight%) (weight%)

Disodium salt

of fuchsin acid

D, disodium

salt of tartrazine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 and trisodium

salt of Allura-

Red

Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Ethylcellulose

at 26.2% in

water; sodium

lauryl sulfate

(1.3%) and

32.97* 32.97* 32.97* 32.97* 32.97* 32.97* cetyl alcohol

(2.5%) /

Aquacoat ECD

30 from FMC

Biopolymer

Octyldodecyl

32.97 - - - - - neopentanoate

Diisostearyl

- 32.97 - - - - malate

Isodecyl

- - 32.97 - - - neopentanoate

Octyldodecanol - - - 32.97 - -

Hydrogenated

polyisobutene

(Parleam from - - - - 32.97 - NOF

Corporation)

Isononyl

- - - - - 32.97 isononanoate

Hydroxypropyl

guar (Jaguar HP

0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 105 from

Rhodia)

Trimethylsiloxy

phenyl

dimethicone

23 23 23 23 23 23

(Wacker-Belsil

PDM 1000

from Wacker)

Non-denatured

96-degree ethyl 3 3 3 3 3 3 alcohol

Water 3.06 3.06 3.06 3.06 3.06 3.06

Mixture of

sorbitan stearate

and sucrose 4 4 4 4 4 4 cocoate

(Arlatone 2121U from

Croda)

TOTAL 100 100 100 100 100 100 weight% (expressed as weight of commercial product).

Protocol for preparing compositions 2 to 7 above

3) The dyes predissolved in water (3.06%) were then added.

4) The non-volatile silicone oil was then added, with continued stirring at 55°C, until the mixture was homogeneous, and the heating was then stopped.

5) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol were added with stirring.

7) The compositions were left to stand for 24 hours at room temperature.

The appearance of the compositions, and also the homogeneity, the non-tacky nature, the transfer resistance properties, the staying power and the gloss of compositions 2 to 7 were then evaluated.

The homogeneity and gloss of compositions 2 to 7 were evaluated visually, by comparison of the various compositions with each other.

The non-tacky nature, the transfer resistance properties and the staying power of compositions 2 to 7 were evaluated by means of the protocols defined previously.

Result of the evaluations: Composition Composition Composition Comparative Comparative Comparative

2 according 3 according 4 according composition 5 composition 6 composition 7 to the to the to the outside the outside the outside the invention invention invention invention invention invention

(non- homogeneous,

very fluid

Appearance

composition:

of the

poorly

+++ +++ +++ (sparingly composition ++

dispersed oily homogeneous, immediately (homogeneous (homogeneous (homogeneous (homogeneous fluid phase: composition: after , fluid cream, , fluid cream, , fluid cream, , fluid cream,

presence of oil poorly preparation stable after 24 stable after 24 stable after 24 stable after 24 dispersed oily drops. phase: and after 24 hours at room hours at room hours at room hours at room

Leaching of presence of oil hours at temperature) temperature) temperature) temperature) drops, but no oil at the total phase room

surface of the separation) temperature

composition

after 24 hours

at room

temperature)

Lips not made

Uniform up,

Uniformity Uniform Uniform Uniform deposit, composition Non-uniform of the deposit deposit deposit deposit slightly greasy too deposit, comes feel inhomogeneou off in pieces s

Composition

impossible to

use as makeup

Non-tacky and thus not +

+++ ++ ++

nature of the +++ evaluable

(sparingly (sparingly (sparingly

deposit (non-tacky) since the (moderately tacky) tacky) tacky)

obtained phases of the tacky) composition

have totally

separated Impossible to

use as makeup

++ ++ and thus not

+++ +

Transfer Very little Very little evaluable Difficult to

Transfer- Slight transfer,

resistance of transfer, transfer, since the evaluate since resistant especially of

the deposit especially of especially of phases of the the deposit deposit the silicone oil

the silicone oil the silicone oil composition comes off in have totally pieces separated

Impossible to

use as makeup ~ and thus not Very poor

+++ ++ +++ ++ evaluable staying power,

Staying

(good staying (moderate (good staying (moderate since the the deposit power

power) staying power) power) staying power) phases of the comes off in composition pieces after have totally making up the separated lips

Impossible to

use as makeup

and thus not

Satiny makeup evaluable

Very glossy Moderate Satiny makeup

Gloss result (slightly Good gloss since the

makeup result gloss result (slightly glossy) phases of the

glossy) composition

have totally

separated

The

Moderately

Satiny matt composition is

Very glossy glossy makeup Glossy

makeup result Impossible to not very makeup result, result, not makeup result,

with a good use as makeup homogeneous, sparingly tacky, and sparingly

level of since the but the phases tacky and with a good tacky, and

Comments staying phases of the have not moderate level of moderate

power, not composition totally staying power, staying staying power,

tacky, and have totally separated. On very little oil power, very slight oil

transfer- separated the other hand, transfer little oil transfer

resistant the deposit transfer

obtained is not at all uniform and comes off in pieces. It is moderately tacky and has very poor staying power.

+++: very good; ++: good; +: moderate; -: poor;— : very poor.

Comparative composition 6 outside the invention is inhomogeneous immediately after application and the phases become totally separated after 24 hours.

Comparative composition 7 outside the invention is sparingly homogeneous, oil drops are observed. It does not, however, undergo total phase separation, but the deposit obtained is very non-uniform and comes off in pieces. It is moderately tacky and has very poor staying power.

Comparative composition 5 outside the invention is fluid, stable and homogeneous and its deposit shows a good level of gloss and is sparingly tacky, but the deposit obtained has moderate staying power and transfers slightly (especially oil transfer).

Composition 3 according to the invention is fluid, stable (for at least 1 week) and homogeneous and makes it possible to improve the level of gloss of the deposit relative to comparative composition 5, without losing any staying power and without becoming more tacky. Furthermore, it transfers only very slightly.

Composition 4 according to the invention is fluid, stable (for at least 1 week) and homogeneous, and makes it possible to improve the level of staying power of the deposit relative to comparative composition 5, without losing any gloss or any transfer resistance (it transfers only very slightly), while at the same time further limiting the tackiness (non-tacky deposit).

Composition 2 according to the invention is fluid, stable (for at least 1 week) and homogeneous, and makes it possible to improve the level of staying power of the deposit, and also the transfer resistance properties (totally transfer-resistant deposit) relative to comparative composition 5, while at the same time further limiting the tackiness (non-tacky deposit) and conserving a slightly glossy (satiny) appearance. Thus, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain a stable, homogeneous composition which makes it possible to obtain a deposit that is glossy and/or that has good staying power and/or has little or no tackiness and/or is transfer resistant (or transfers only slightly).

In addition, the compositions according to the invention are fluid and easy to apply, and the makeup deposit obtained is thin, fresh, uniform and light.

Example 3

Compositions 8 to 10 below illustrate compositions according to the present comprising compounds (A), (B), (C), (D) and (H).

Compositions 5, 9 and 11 are comparative compositions outside the invention.

INCI name and Comparative Composition Comparative Composition Comparative composition 5 8 according composition 9 10 according composition commercial

outside the to the outside the to the 11 outside the references invention* invention* invention* invention* invention*

Disodium salt of

fuchsin acid D,

disodium salt of

0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 tartrazine and

trisodium salt of

Allura-Red

Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Ethylcellulose at

26.2% in water;

sodium lauryl

sulfate (1.3%) and

32.97* 32.97* 32.97* 32.97* 32.97* cetyl alcohol

(2.5%) / Aquacoat

ECD 30 from FMC

Biopolymer

Octyldodecanol 32.97 - - - -

Hydrogenated

cocoglycerides

(mixture of fatty

acids such as lauric

acid, palmitic acid, - 7 32.97 - - cetylic acid and

stearic acid)

(Softisan 100 by

Cremer Oleo)

Hydrogenated

myristyl olive ester

wax (Phytowax - - - 7 32.97

Olive 14L48 from Sophim)

Hydroxypropyl

guar (Jaguar HP 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

105 from Rhodia)

Trimethylsiloxyph

enyl dimethicone

(Wacker-Belsil 23 23 23 23 23

PDM 1000 from

Wacker)

Non-denatured 96- degree ethyl 3 3 3 3 3 alcohol

Water 3.06 29.03 3.06 29.03 3.06

Mixture of sorbitan

stearate and

sucrose cocoate 4 4 4 4 4

(Arlatone 2121U

from Croda)

TOTAL 100 100 100 100 100

* weight% (expressed as weight of commercial product).

Protocol for preparing compositions 5 and 8 to 11 above

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose was mixed with water, the hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) and the solid fatty substances (pasty fatty substance and/or waxes) with stirring using a Rayneri blender, and the mixture was heated for 1 to 2 hours at 55°C.

2) The surfactant and then the hydroxypropyl guar were added and the mixture was stirred at 55°C until homogeneous, then heating of the composition was stopped.

3) The dyes predissolved in water (3.06%) were then added.

4) The non-volatile silicone oil was then added with continued stirring.

5) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol were added with stirring.

6) Stirring of the compositions was continued until they reached room temperature.

7) The stirring was then stopped and the mixture was packaged in heating sachets for compositions 5, 8 and 10, and was poured into jars for compositions 9 and 11.

8) The compositions were then left to stand for 24 hours at room temperature.

The homogeneity, the tackiness, the transfer resistance properties, the staying power and the gloss of compositions 5 and 8 to 11 were then evaluated. The homogeneity and gloss of compositions 5 and 8 to 11 were evaluated visually, by comparison of the various compositions with each other.

The non-tacky nature, the transfer resistance properties and the staying power of compositions 5 and 8 to 11 were evaluated by means of the protocols defined previously.

Result of the evaluations:

Comparative Comparative Comparative

Composition 8 Composition

composition 5 composition 9 composition according to 10 according to

outside the outside the 11 outside the the invention* the invention*

invention* invention* invention*

Appearance

of the very hard, composition fluid fairly very homogeneous homogeneous

after 24 homogeneous homogeneous compact fluid fluid

hours at cream cream solid room composition temperature

Appearance

very very of the

hard, very composition homogeneous homogeneous relatively homogeneous

compact after 1 week fluid cream fluid hard paste fluid

solid at room

composition temperature

Uniformity

of the +++ +++ + ++ - deposit

Non-tacky

nature of + ( slightly +++ (non- +++ +++ (fairly the deposit tacky) tacky) (non-tacky) (non-tacky) tacky) obtained

++

Transfer - (slight +++ (no +++

(very little (slight resistance transfer) transfer) (no transfer)

transfer) transfer) Staying

+ ++ + +++ - power

Moderate Moderate

Gloss Glossy Matt - gloss gloss

Soft and Texture not

fondant stable over Gentle Too

Greasy and

application. time: the application. thick/hard

Comments glidant on

Pleasant, composition Smooth to be made application

smooth hardened deposit up deposit after 1 week

+++: very good; ++: good; +: moderate; -: poor:

In comparative compositions 9 and 11 outside the invention, the hydrocarbon- based oil octyldodecanol present in comparative composition 5 was replaced weight for weight with a hydrocarbon-based solid fatty substance (a pasty fatty substance and a wax, respectively). In compositions 8 and 10 according to the invention, the 32.97% of hydrocarbon-based oil octyldodecanol present in comparative composition 5 was replaced with 7% of a hydrocarbon-based solid fatty substance (a pasty fatty substance and a wax, respectively) and 25.97% by weight of water.

Comparative compositions 9 and 11 outside the invention, comprising more than 30%) of waxes or of pasty fatty substance, are unstable over time. Specifically, composition 9 had the texture of a relatively smooth cream after 24 hours at room temperature. However, it hardened after 1 week at room temperature to form a relatively hard paste. Similarly, composition 11, which was already hard after 24 hours at room temperature, continued to harden even further after 1 week at room temperature. It is quite clearly essential for the compositions according to the invention to be stable at room temperature, both in terms of homogeneity and of viscosity or hardness for at least 1 week. Furthermore, composition 11 was not homogeneous and therefore could not be evaluated (impossible to use as makeup since it was too hard and too thick).

Compositions 5, 8 and 10 are homogeneous and stable over time. Furthermore, compositions 8 and 10 according to the invention are fluid and easy to apply, and their deposit is easy and uniform on the lips, as for comparative composition 5 outside the invention.

However, in comparison with composition 5 outside the invention, the deposits obtained on the lips with compositions 8 and 10 according to the invention are entirely non- tacky (i.e. they do not otherwise give rise to a tacky feel) and are entirely transfer-resistant, whereas composition 5 outside the invention is tacky and transfers slightly. Furthermore, although the deposit obtained with composition 5 has acceptable staying power, compositions 8 and 10 according to the invention have better staying power than comparative composition 5. Finally, compositions 8 and 10 according to the invention are smoother and more gentle on application than comparative composition 5.

Furthermore, the deposit obtained with composition 8 according to the invention is glossy, and the deposit obtained with composition 10 is matt.

The makeup deposit obtained with compositions 8 and 10 according to the invention is thin and light.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to its total weight;

(B) at least 4% by weight of alkylcellulose relative to its total weight, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, and better still ethylcellulose;

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

3. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, whereinit is free of or comprises a total content of C10-C26 alcohols of less than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it is free of or comprises a total content of less than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to its total weight, of second hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E) chosen from:

- C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

- esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and

mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinthe alkylcellulose is present in a content ranging from 4% to 60% by weight, preferably from 4% to 50% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinthe alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, and is preferably ethylcellulose.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the said first non-volatile oil (C) is chosen from phenyl silicone oils, preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, and mixtures thereof, and preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinit comprises a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight of first non-volatile silicone oil(s) and/or fluoro oil(s) (C), in particular from 5% to 60%> by weight and more particularly from 10%) to 50%) by weight, relative to its total weight.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it comprises a content of first non-volatile silicone oil(s) and/or fluoro oil(s) (C) ranging from 10% to 40% by weight and better still from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase of the said composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the octyldodecanol, the C10-C26 alcohols or the said second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (E) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01%> to 3.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05%) to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1%> to 2% by weight and better still from 0.2%) to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, whereinit is free of octyldodecanol, preferably is free of C10-C26 alcohol(s) and better still is free of the said second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (E).

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it comprises from 5% to 80% by weight of water, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 15% to 60% by weight and better still from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to its total weight.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the stabilizer (D) is a surfactant, which is preferably nonionic, more particularly chosen from sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, which are preferably non-polyoxyethylenated, and better still a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate.

14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, whereinthe stabilizer (D) is a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from optionally modified polymers of natural origin, preferably such as optionally modified guar gums.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it comprises:

- from 4% to 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose,

- from 15% to 60% by weight of water,

- from 5% to 60% by weight of non-volatile silicone oils (C), and

- from 0.1% to 30% by weight of stabilizer(s) (D),

relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinit also comprises at least a third additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil (F) different from the hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (E).

17. Composition according to the preceding claim, whereinthe third additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) are chosen from:

- alcohol oils comprising at least 27 carbon atoms, preferably diisostearyl malate;

- ester oils obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms;

- ester oils obtained from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms;

- ester oils comprising at least 23 carbon atoms;

- oils comprising at least one carbonate function; and

- mixtures thereof.

18. Composition according to the preceding claim, whereinthe third additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) are alcohol oils comprising at least 27 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from:

monohydroxylated oils, preferably chosen from poly(2-glyceryl triisostearate), 2- octyldodecyl hydroxy stearate; glyceryl diisostearate; diisostearyl malate; and mixtures thereof; dihydroxylated oils, preferably chosen from poly(2-glyceryl diisostearate), esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula HO-R^-OCO-R^COO-R^_h-OH, i_n which R¹ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid, R² represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, especially such as the dilinoleic diacid esters of dilinoleic diol dimers sold, for example, by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5^® and DD-DA7^®, and mixtures thereof;

- trihydroxylated oils, preferably chosen from castor oil; and

mixtures thereof,

and better still is diisostearyl malate.

19. Composition according to Claim 17, wherein the third additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) are an ester oil obtained from an alcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), C₁₂ to C₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of more than 10 carbon atoms, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate; and mixtures thereof, and better still chosen from neopentanoic acid esters, preferably chosen from 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and diisostearyl malate, and mixtures thereof.

20. Composition according to Claim 17, whereinthe third hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) are an ester oil comprising at least 23 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from:

- optionally hydroxylated monoester oils, comprising at least 23 carbon atoms,

- esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid; - vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymers,

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils,

- unsaturated triglycerides,

- sucrose esters, preferably sucrose diacetate hexaisobutyrate,

- and mixtures thereof.

21. Composition according to any one of Claims 16 to 20, whereinit comprises one or more third additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s) (F) in a content ranging from 1% to 75% by weight, in particular from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 10%> to 50%) by weight and preferably from 20% to 45% by weight, relative to its total weight.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinit comprises at least one solid fatty substance (H) chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

23. Composition according to the preceding claim, whereinit comprises a total content of solid fatty substances (H) of less than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, preferably a total content of solid fatty substance (H) ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5%) to 15% by weight, better still from 1% to 10% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 30%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. Composition according to Claim 22, whereinthe solid fatty substance is a wax, the said wax preferably being chosen from waxes with a melting point of less than 65°C and better still less than 63°C.

25. Composition according to any one of Claims 22 to 24, whereinthe wax is chosen from paraffin wax, stearyl alcohol, synthetic beeswax, palm butter, sumach wax, silicone-treated beeswax, stearyl stearate, alkyl dimethicone wax, polymethylene waxes, berry wax, olive oil wax, lemon wax and ceresin wax, and mixtures thereof.

26. Composition according to any one of Claims 22 to 25, whereinthe said composition comprises not more than 30% by weight of wax(es), preferably between 0.1% and 30%) by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 15% by weight and better still between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. Composition according to Claim 22, whereinthe solid fatty substance (H) is a pasty fatty substance, the said pasty fatty substance being chosen from: - lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular:

- olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

- homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- esters and polyesters, and

- mixtures thereof.

28. Composition according to either of Claims 22 and 27, whereinthe pasty fatty substance is an ester or a polyester or a mixture thereof, preferably chosen from:

- esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxy stearic acid; or alternatively which have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, cetylic acid and stearic acid,

- phytosterol esters;

- pentaerythritol esters; - esters formed from:

- at least one C16-40 alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol, and

- a diacid dimer formed from at least one C18-40 unsaturated fatty acid, such as the ester of a dimer of fatty acids of tall oil comprising 36 carbon atoms and of a mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) of behenyl alcohol; the ester of a dimer of linoleic acid and of a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyloctadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2- hexadecyleicosanol (36 carbon atoms);

- non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol;

- polyesters resulting from esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid ester;

- aliphatic esters of an ester, resulting from esterification between an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid.

29. Composition according to any one of Claims 22, 27 and 28, whereinthe said composition comprises not more than 30% by weight of pasty fatty substances, preferably between 0.5% and 30% by weight and more particularly between 1% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it comprises at least one dyestuff

31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it also comprises at least one additional compound chosen from fillers, semi-crystalline polymers and film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.

32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it is in liquid form.

33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinit has at 25°C a viscosity of between 0.2 and 25 Pa.s and preferably between 1 and 20 Pa.s.

34. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinthe said composition is a composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the lips and/or skin, and better still the lips, and more particularly a lipstick or a lip gloss.

35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, whereinit comprises a total content of less than or equal to 10% by weight of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still is free of C₂-C₈ monoalcohol(s), the said C₂-C₈ monoalcohol(s) preferably being chosen from ethanol, butanol, methanol and isopropanol.

36. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and better still the lips, comprising at least one step that consists in applying to the said keratin materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 35.