WO2013189055A1

WO2013189055A1 - Cosmetic composition and method for using thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2013189055A1
Application number: PCT/CN2012/077291
Authority: WO
Inventors: Haiquan LU; Yue Wang; Xinrong LIN; Jerome Senee; Liang Zhang; Veronique Burnier
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2012-06-21
Filing date: 2012-06-21
Publication date: 2013-12-27
Also published as: ZA201409028B; CN109966162A; BR112014031962A2; CN104394830A

Abstract

A cosmetic composition for keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, the hair and the nails, is provided. The cosmetic composition comprises a mixture of at least a wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof; at least a polymeric thickening agent; hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter ranging from 1 to 1500 μm; and at least an inorganic base or organic base, or a mixture thereof.

Description

Cosmetic composition and method for using thereof

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, the hair and the nails. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin materials using said composition.

In the field of cosmetic skin care compositions, it is known practice to use organic waxes that absorb sebum and perspiration, in order to mattify the skin and/or optically smooth the microrelief and camouflage the imperfections of the skin.

However, the use of these waxes is generally accompanied by a dry, rough feel and a lack of comfort that is unacceptable for the user. Moreover, high concentration of the waxes leads to the composition unstable due to the growth of the size of the crystals over time.

Fatty acids are also widely used as a mattifying agent because they make it possible to obtain a soft feel on the skin, but they must be used at a relatively high content in order to have the mattifying effect, which constitutes a restraint in the choice of the texture, the stability of the composition, and moreover the cost of the formulation.

However, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions that are mattifying and/or that make it possible to mask skin imperfections, which have good cosmetic properties, in particular which are soft on application, stable over time, and less restrictive in terms of cost.

The Applicant has discovered that this need can be met by combining in a composition, fatty acids having C16 or C18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof, polymeric thickening agents, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and inorganic or organic bases.

More specifically, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of:

- at least a wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof;

- at least a polymeric thickening agent;

- hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μηι; and - at least a inorganic base or an organic base, or a mixture thereof.

The mixture thereof makes it possible to obtain compositions that are comfortable and soft on application, having mattifying and soft -focus properties. It also meets the demand of stability over time.

The mixture thereof maybe any type of cosmetic composition such as a foundation, a face powder, an eye shadow, a concealer product, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil, an eye pencil, an eyeliner, a mascara, a body makeup product, a skin colouring product, a care product such as a care cream, a tinted cream or an antisun product, preferably a care product such as a care cream.

The mixture of the invention is advantageously in the form of gel or cream.

Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials comprising a step of applying a composition as defined above to said materials.

In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

Waxes:

The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 'Ό), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 which may be up to 200 'Ό and in particular up to 120°C.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45^ and in particular greater than or equal to 55 'Ό.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, by virtue of the fluid nature of the wax at high temperature, it is easier to mix, manipulate and condition the composition according to the invention at such a temperature.

As illustrations of waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of fatty acids obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains, preferably Ci₆ or Ci₈ chains. Among these, mention may be made especially of stearic acid, palmitic acid, or a mixture thereof. The fatty acids used in the current invention are commercially available under the trade names, for example, AEC Stearic Acid sold by A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd., Emersol sold by Emery Oleochemical LLC, Palmitic Acid PC sold by Protameen Chemicals, Inc.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64^® and 22L73^® by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.

A wax that may be used is a C₂o-C₄o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.

Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P^®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P^® and Kester Wax K 80 P^® by the company Koster Keunen.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax chosen fro m fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof .

Advantageously, a composition of the invention may comprise from 6% to 12% by weight and preferably from 7% to 9% by weight of wax(es) relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Polymeric thickening agent:

The presence of such a compound is advantageous in the sense that it can instantly thicken the composition of the current invention and be compatible with the waxes comprised in the current invention.

As stated above, a polymeric agent in accordance with the invention is a thickening agent and advantageously emulsifying polymer.

The term "polymeric thickening agent" means a polymer which, when introduced as an aqueous 0.05% (by weight) solution, makes it possible to reduce the surface tension of water at 25^ to a value of less than 50 mN/m and preferably less than 40 mN/m. The term "polymeric thickening agent" means a polymer which, when introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1 % by weight, gives a macroscopically homogeneous thickened solution whose light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%, which corresponds to an absorbance [abs = -log(transmittance)] of less than 1 .5. As stated above, a polymeric thickening agent in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS^®), polymers derived from acrylamide, polymers derived from acrylic acid and polyether derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

The polymeric agents in accordance with the invention, especially the polymers derived from AMPS^® and the polymers derived from acrylic acid, generally have a weight-average molar mass ranging from 50 000 to 10 000 000, more preferentially from 100 000 to 8 000 000 and even more preferentially from 200 000 to 3 000 000.

The polymers in accordance with the invention, especially the polymers derived from AMPS^® and the polymers derived from acrylic acid, are preferentially partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (for instance sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or with an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, or basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.

The polymeric agents according to the invention, especially the polymers derived from AMPS^® and the polymers derived from acrylic acid, may or may not be crosslinked. a) Polymers derived from AMPS^® (AcrylamidoMethylPropaneSulfonic)

b) The amphiphilic water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer according to the invention is especially a polymer derived from AMPS^® (AcrylamidoMethylPropaneSulfonic)

. The polymers derived from AMPS comprise:

from 80 mol% to 99 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS^®_) units of formula (1 ) below:

in which X⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or an ammonium ion; and

1 mol% to 20 mol% and referably from 1 mol% to 15 mol% of units of formula (2) below:

in which n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and ranges from 0 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 20, with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and better still less than 20; Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C₆ alkyi radical (preferably methyl) and R₃ denotes a linear or branched alkyi comprising m carbon atoms, with m ranging from 6 to 30 and preferably from 10 to 25.

These polymers according to the invention may be obtained according to the standard free- radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis[2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride (ABAH = 2,2-azoBis-[2-Amidinopropane] hydrochloride), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, etc., mineral peroxide compounds such as potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate, or H₂0₂ optionally in the presence of reducing agents.

The polymers are obtained especially by free-radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium from which they precipitate. Using polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a size distribution of the polymer particles that is particularly favourable for its uses.

The polymerization reaction may be performed at a temperature of between 0 and Ι δΟ 'Ό, preferably between 20 and 100 °C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It may also be performed under inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.

It is thus possible to use the polymers prepared from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), or a sodium or ammonium salt thereof, with an ester of (meth)acrylic acid and: - of a C₁₀-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol C-080^® from the company Clariant), - of a On oxo alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol UD-080 from the company Clariant),

- of a On oxo alcohol oxyethylenated with 7 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol UD-070^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 7 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol LA-070^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 9 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol LA-090^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 1 1 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol LA-1 10^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol T-080^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 1 1 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol T-1 10^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 15 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol T-150^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol T-200^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol T-250^® from the company Clariant),

- of a C18-C22 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide,

- of a C16-C18 iso-alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the polymer of current invention is a copolymer of AMPS and of a Ci ₆-Ci₈ alcohol methacrylate comprising from 6 to 25 mol of oxyethylene groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a methacrylic acid salt and from a Ci ₆-Ci₈ alcohol oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide.

The polymer may also be a copolymer of AMPS^® and of a Ci₂-Ci₄ alcohol methacrylate comprising from 6 to 25 mol of oxyethylene groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a methacrylic acid salt and from a Ci₂-Ci₄ alcohol oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide.

As polymers of AMPS^® type that are preferred according to the present invention, mention may be made of:

the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 92.65 mol% of AMPS^® and 7.35 mol% of a C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate comprising 8 oxyethylene groups (Genapol T-080^®), the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 91 .5 mol% of AMPS and 8.5 mol% of a Ci₂- Ci4 alcohol methacrylate comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (Genapol LA-070^®),

- the crosslinked copolymer obtained from 96.45 mol% of AMPS^® and 3.55 mol% of a Ci₆-Ci₈ alcohol methacrylate comprising 25 oxyethylene groups (Genapol T-250^®), the crosslinking agent is trimethylolpropane triacrylate,

the crosslinked copolymer obtained from AMPS^® and from a C22 alcohol methacrylate comprising 25 oxyethylene groups; this polymer is sold under the name Aristoflex HMB® by the company Clariant,

- the acrylamide/sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 -propanesulfonate (AMPS^®) copolymer such as Simulgel 600^® in the form of an emulsion containing polysorbate 80 as surfactant and containing isohexadecane as oil phase, sold by the company SEPPIC, or alternatively Simulgel EG^®, Simulgel A^® and Simulgel 501 ^® sold by the same company.

Simulgel 600^® is described especially in document FR 2 785 801 . It is more specifically a reverse latex. The AMPS^® polyelectrolyte is 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 - propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified especially in sodium salt or ammonium salt form, to a proportion of from 30 mol% to 50 mol% in the mixture comprising the AMPS and an acrylamide, which is itself in a proportion of 50% to 70%.

c) Polymers derived from acrylic acid

The polymeric agents according to the invention may also be chosen from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid derivatives. These polymers may comprise:

- from 50 mol% to 99 mol% of acrylic acid (AA) units of formula (3) below:

1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 1 mol% to 15 mol% of units of formula (4) below:

in which denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched CrC₆ alkyl radical (preferably methyl), A denotes an ester or amide group or an oxygen atom and R₄ denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising m carbon atoms with m ranging from 6 to 30 and preferably from 10 to 25.

As polymers derived from acrylic acid that are preferred according to the present invention, mention may be made of:

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and laureth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 25^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and beheneth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 28® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and vinyl neododecanoate, sold under the name Aculyn 38^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 88^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- crosslinked copolymers of C10-C30-alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid, for instance Pemulen TR1 ^® and TR2^® sold by the company Noveon,

- the crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of vinyl isodecanoate, sold under the name Stabylen 30^® by the company 3V,

- crosslinked copolymers obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and from a C 10-C30 alkyl acrylate, sold under the name Carbopol ETD 2020® and Carbopol 1382^® by the company Noveon,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 2001 ^® by the company National Starch,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and ceteth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 3001 ^® by the company National Starch,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, aminoacrylate and C 10- C30 alkyl PEG 20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure Plus^® by the company National Starch,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate, sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000^® by the company Amerchol. - the copolymers obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and from an acrylic monomer bearing a silicone graft, described in patent EP 1 946 799.

The polymer derived from acrylic acid is in particular a non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate.

d) Polyether derivatives

The thickening polymeric agents according to the invention may also be chosen from polyether derivatives.

Within the meaning of the instant invention, the expression "polyether derivatives" encompass the polyethyleneglycol-based copolymers.

The preferred polyether derivatives are water-soluble polyurethanes and especially polyethylene glycol compounds (for example containing from 45 to 160 ethylene oxide units) bearing at the ends a C₈-C₂o alkyl chain via a urethane bond.

Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

- the PEG-150 copolymer bearing stearyl end groups via urethane bonds, sold under the name Aculyn 46^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the PEG-150 copolymer bearing decyl end groups via urethane bonds, sold under the name Aculyn 44® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the PEG-136 copolymer bearing stearyl end groups via urethane bonds, sold under the name Nuvis FX 1 100® by the company Elementis,

- the PEG-50 copolymer bearing stearyl end groups via urethane bonds, sold under the name Borchigel LW 44® by the company Borchers France.

The polymers derived from polyether may also bear fatty chains free of urethane bonds, for instance the product Pure Thix HH^® sold by the company Sud Chemie.

The polymers derived from polyether may also be chosen from copolymers containing ethylene oxide and propylene oxide blocks, having the following formula:

HO(C₂H₄0)_x(C₃H₆0)_y(C₂H₄0)_zH

in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and more particularly from the block copolymers of the preceding formula with an HLB value ranging from 7 to 16.

These block copolymers may be chosen especially from polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates and especially from those sold under the names:

Pluronic L42® of the preceding formula with x = z = 3 and y = 18 (HLB = 8) Pluronic P84® (INCI name: Poloxamer 184) of the preceding formula with x = z = 12 and y = 27 (HLB = 14)

Pluronic P103® (INCI name: Poloxamer 333) of the preceding formula with x = z = 12 and y = 40 (HLB = 9)

Pluronic P123® (INCI name: Poloxamer 184) of the preceding formula with x = z = 14 and y = 48 (HLB = 8)

Pluronic L44® (INCI name: Poloxamer 124) of the preceding formula with x = z = 5 and y = 21 (HLB = 16).

Among the polymeric thickening agents in accordance with the invention, the following are preferably used:

- polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of Pemulen type;

- AMPS^®/acrylamide copolymers especially of Sepigel® or Simulgel® type sold by the company SEPPIC; and

- AMPS^®/polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers which are optionally crosslinked, of the type especially such as Aristoflex HMS, LNC or SNC from Clariant;

copolymers derived from polyether especially such as Nuvis FX1 100 from Elementis; and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the polymeric thickening agent is in a liquid form at room temperature.

More preferentially, they are AMPS/acrylamide copolymers especially such as Simulgel® sold by the company SEPPIC.

According to a particular preferred embodiment, the polymeric thickening agents of is chosen among the polymers derived from AMPS^® (AcrylamidoMethylPropaneSulfonic), and more particularly from the acrylamide/sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 - propanesulfonate (AMPS^®) copolymer such as Simulgel 600^® sold by the company SEPPIC.

Optionally, without this being mandatory, it is possible to use the polymeric thickening agents required according to the invention with at least one surfactant other than the said polymer, so as to facilitate the emulsification of the associated fatty phase.

In particular, a surfactant having at 25^ an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), in the Griffin sense, of greater than or equal to 10 and in particular greater than or equal to 12 may be used. A composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise a surfactant with a low HLB value, i.e. less than 12, in particular with an HLB value of between 1 and 10. Such a surfactant can stabilize the emulsion and facilitate the application to the keratin material of the solid anhydrous composition according to the invention containing it when the said composition is applied after having been combined beforehand with an aqueous phase.

Such a surfactant will preferably be liquid at room temperature to facilitate its use and its availability after addition of the aqueous phase.

Such a surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

The Griffin HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Preferably, the co-surf actant(s) will be selected from nonionic surfactants.

Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk- Othmer", volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 3% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 2.5% by weight and better still 2% by weight of polymeric thickening agent(s) relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Hydrophobic silica aerogels:

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid; the one most commonly used being supercritical C0₂. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol -gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m₂/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m₂/g and better still from 600 to 800 m₂/g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 μηι, preferably from 5 to 25 μηι, better still from 5 to 20 μηι and even better still from 5 to 15 μηι. The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett- Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The size of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non -spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μηι and better still from 5 to 15 μηι.

The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density r) ranging from 0.04 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume S_v ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm³. The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: Sv = S_M.r where r is the tamped density expressed in g/cm³ and S_M is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil - absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.

The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:

An amount = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups. As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles that have been surface- modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7 470 725.

Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups .

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

Use will be made more particularly of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

The silica aerogel particles in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.1 % to 2% by weight and more preferentially from 0.2% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Bases:

The presence of the bases in the composition of the current invention helps to control the percentage of the fatty acid which will be neutralized, as what we want to claim, 5% - 20% of fatty acid should be neutralized.

Suitable bases used in the present invention are inorganic and organic bases that are used commonly in cosmetic compositions.

Organic bases may be pyridines, methyl amines, imidazoles, benzimidazoles, histidines, phosphazene bases, and hydroxides of organic cations. Among which, alkanolamines are preferably according to one embodiment of the current invention.

Inorganic bases may be hydroxides or carbonates of alkaline earths and alkali metals. They are very commonly used in cosmetic compositions to date. Mention may be made of alkali hydroxides, according to the embodiment of the present invention. Preferred bases of the current invention may be TEA, which is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Tealan sold by Rita Corporation, or Triethanolamine sold by BASF Corporation, and KOH, which is commercially available under the trade name Naturagel sold by Active Concepts LLC, or SC-1000 Gemtek Products.

The bases in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of active material ranging from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Adjuvants:

In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and/or dermatology, such as active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH modifiers (acidic or basic), fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes), film-forming polymers, emulsifiers such as fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of glycerol and fatty acid esters of sorbitan, which are optionally polyoxyethylenated, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters or ethers of sugars such as sucrose or glucose; thickeners and/or gelling agents, in particular polyacrylamides, acrylic homopolymers and copolymers, and acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid homopolymers and copolymers, and also lipid vesicles. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.5% to 3% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid vesicles.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the mattifying/soft focus properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

In the patent application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, the contents are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes accord ing to this invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention. All the parts and percentages in the examples are given on a weight basis and all the measurements were obtained at about 25 unless otherwise mentioned.

Examples

Example 1 : invention formula 1

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

- Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 70-75°C, add phase C,

- Cool down to 30-35°C, add phase D.

Example2: invention formula 2

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

- Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 70-75°C, add phase C,

- Cool down to 30-35°C, add phase D. Example 3: Comparative formula

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

- Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 30-35°C,

Example 4: Comparative tests

The anti-shine in-vitro results of examples 1 , 2 and 3 are tested by KONICA MIOLTA Gloss Meter 268Plus. The results are shown in the table below. It is known to the skilled person in the art that the anti-shine effect is considered as good if the test result is below 20. The less the number is, the better the performance exhibits.

Besides, stability of the examples 1 , 2 and 3 are tested by leaving the examples for 2 months under 45 °C and 4°C, respectively.

Example 5: cream for greasy skin

80 (simulgel 600 from SEPPIC company)

ALCOHOL 5

D SILICA SILYLATE (VM-2270 from DOW Coming) 0.5

WATER 2.1

ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE

C2 COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 0.5

80 (simulgel 600 from SEPPIC company)

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.7

E

DIMETHICONE 1.5

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

- Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 70-75°C, add phase C1 ,

- Cool down to 30-35°C, add phase D, C2, and E.

The invention of example 5 exhibits good anti-shine performance, while at the same time stable over time.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1 . Cosmetic composition comprising:

- at least one wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof;

- at least one polymeric thickening agent;

- hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μηι; and

- at least one inorganic base or organic base, or a mixture thereof.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the wax contains at least one palmitic acid, one stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.

3. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 6% to 12% by weight, preferably from 7% to 9% by weight of the wax, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the polymeric thickening agent comprises polymers derived from AMPS, polymers derived from acrylic acid, polyether derivatives, or a mixture thereof.

5. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 0.5% to 3% by weight, preferably 1 .5% to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 2% by weight of the polymeric thickening agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 1 % by weight of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises:

- palmitic acid, stearic acid, or a mixture thereof ;

- acrylamide/sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 -propanesulfonate;

- trimethylsiloxyl silica particles; and

TEA, KOH, or a mixture thereof.

8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , further comprising at least one adjuvant selected from the group consisting of active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH modifiers (acidic or basic), fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes), film-forming polymers, emulsifiers, fatty acid esters of glycerol and fatty acid esters of sorbitan, thickeners, gelling agents, and lipid vesicles.

9. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g.

10. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size expressed as the volume-average diameter ranging from 1 to 1000 μηι, preferably from 1 to 100 μηι, in particular from 1 to 30 μηι, more preferably from 5 to 25 μηι, better still from 5 to 20 μηι and even better still from 5 to 15 μηι.

1 1 . The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μηι and better still from 5 to 15 μηι.

12. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a tapped density ranging from 0.04 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

13. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of volume S_v ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm³.

14. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g of particles.

15. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

16. Cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials comprising a step of applying a composition according to one of the preceding claims to said materials.