WO2013152956A1 - Composition de coloration capillaire utilisant du (2,5-diaminophényl)éthanol, un surfactant amphotère à base de bétaïne ou une amine grasse tertiaire dans un milieu riche en substances grasses - Google Patents
Composition de coloration capillaire utilisant du (2,5-diaminophényl)éthanol, un surfactant amphotère à base de bétaïne ou une amine grasse tertiaire dans un milieu riche en substances grasses Download PDFInfo
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- 0 C*C(C)(C)[N+](*)C(C)(C)* Chemical compound C*C(C)(C)[N+](*)C(C)(C)* 0.000 description 1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/411—Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, comprising a) one or more fatty substances, which are preferably liquid and non-silicone; b) one or more betaine amphoteric surfactants and/or one or more tertiary fatty amines; c) (2,5- diaminophenyl)ethanol; d) optionally, one or more couplers; e) optionally one or more basifying agents; and f) one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, and the content of fatty substances in the composition representing in total at least 10%, in particular at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight and more preferentially at least 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- the present invention also relates to a dyeing process using this composition, and to a multi-compartment device that is suitable for the use of this composition.
- One of the dyeing methods is "permanent" or oxidation dyeing, which uses dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, in combination with oxidizing products, can give rise to coloured compounds by an oxidative condensation process.
- oxidation bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or coloration modifiers, the latter being chosen especially from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
- couplers or coloration modifiers the latter being chosen especially from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
- direct dyes are coloured and colouring molecules that have an affinity for the fibres. Examples that may be mentioned include nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes.
- Permanent dyeing processes thus consist in using, with the dye composition, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
- the role of this oxidizing agent is, at least partially, to degrade the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to more or less pronounced lightening of the fibres.
- the oxidizing agent used is generally hydrogen peroxide.
- One of the difficulties encountered during the implementation of the dyeing processes of the prior art arises from the fact that they are carried out under alkaline conditions and that the basifying agents most commonly used are aqueous ammonia and amines.
- the basifying agent makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to enable activation of the oxidizing agent.
- this basifying agent causes swelling of the keratin fibre, with raising of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent, and also of the dyes, if they are present, essentially oxidation dyes, into the fibre, and thus increases the efficacy of the dyeing or lightening reaction.
- basifying agents and especially aqueous ammonia, cause the user discomfort due to their strong characteristic odour.
- composition according to the invention in the presence of a chemical oxidizing agent makes it possible to obtain colours that are satisfactory, especially in terms of power in general, but also with satisfactory coverage or build-up of the colour at the root of the hair, which makes it possible to avoid a "root" effect of the coloration.
- the colorations obtained are also sparingly selective.
- the invention makes it possible to achieve substantial degrees of lightening while at the same time colouring, without using persalts or increasing the amount of chemical oxidizing agent or of basifying agent.
- a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair comprising:
- fatty substances which are preferably liquid and non-silicone
- oxidation base(s) chosen from (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates;
- one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s) such as hydrogen peroxide
- the fatty substance content representing in total at least 10%, in particular at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight and more preferentially at least 25% by weight even more particularly at least 30% by weight, more preferentially at least 40% by weight and even more preferentially at least 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Another subject of the invention is dyeing processes using the composition of the invention containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and a multi-compartment device that enables the use of the composition of the invention.
- the use of the dye composition according to the invention leads to powerful, intense, chromatic and/or sparingly selective colorations, i.e. colorations that are uniform along the fibre.
- the dyeing process of the invention also makes it possible to cover keratin fibres particularly well at their root, especially down to three centimetres from the base of the said fibres.
- the colours obtained after treating the fibres remain stable, in particular towards light.
- the invention also makes it possible to reduce the amounts of active agents of the invention such as the dyes and/or basifying agents and/or oxidizing agents.
- the processes according to the invention use formulations that are less malodorous during their application to the hair or during their preparation.
- the human keratin fibres treated via the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.
- the composition of the invention comprises a) one or more fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone and liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
- fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1 % and even more preferentially less than 0.1 %). They exhibit, in their structure, at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
- the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
- the fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid groups (-C(O)OH or -C(0)0 " ).
- the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.
- the fatty substances used in the composition according to the invention are non-silicone oils.
- o/T means a "fatty substance” that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
- non-silicone o/T means an oil not containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term "silicone o/T means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.
- the fatty substance(s) are preferably non-silicone liquid fatty substances.
- the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and plant waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
- the fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
- C 6 -Ci 6 hydrocarbons they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
- a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
- the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
- liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean
- the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ® .
- the fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec ® PC1 and Flutec ® PC3 by the company BN FL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ® and PF 5060 ® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyis
- the fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition according to the invention are saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.
- the wax(es) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
- esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10.
- dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; Ci 2 -Ci 5 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate
- esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 2 6 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
- esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
- alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate
- composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -
- sugar is understood to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds that contain several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and that comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
- sucrose or saccharose
- glucose or saccharose
- galactose or ribose
- fucose maltose
- maltose fructose
- mannose mannose
- arabinose xylose
- lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
- the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
- esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
- esters can, for example, be oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or their mixtures, such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.
- monoesters and diesters and in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or - oleate/stearate of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose.
- esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid examples include:
- sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
- Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-triester-polyester;
- the silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
- the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.
- PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
- organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.
- Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from:
- cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
- cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
- These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione ® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
- linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 ⁇ 10 "6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
- An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones coming within this category are also described in the paper published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
- Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
- silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups.
- the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
- oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
- CTFA dimethiconol
- polydialkylsiloxanes In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are polydi(CrC 2 o)alkylsiloxanes.
- the silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number- average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
- This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.
- Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- CTFA dimethiconol
- CFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane
- the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s, and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x10 "6 m 2 /s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
- the organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
- R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
- R denotes a Ci-C 4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
- organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
- the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
- the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 ⁇ 10 "5 to 5x 10 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
- organomodified silicones Mention may also be made, among the organomodified silicones, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
- the substituted amine groups are, in particular, Ci-C 4 aminoalkyl groups;
- Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax ® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.
- the fatty substances according to the invention are non-silicone.
- the fatty substances are chosen from compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
- the fatty substance is a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
- the fatty substances are advantageously chosen from Ci 6 -Ci 6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, or mixtures thereof.
- the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
- the fatty substances are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly and octyldodecanol.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least 15% by weight of fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone, in particular of oils, preferably non- silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 20% and preferably at least 25%, at least 25% even more particularly at least 30%, more preferably at least 40% and even more preferably at least 50 % by weight of fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone, in particular of oils, preferably non-silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention more particularly has a content of fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone, in particular of oils, preferably non-silicone oils, ranging from 10% to 80%, more preferentially from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, better still from 30% to 70% by weight and even more advantageously from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- fatty substances which are preferably non-silicone, in particular of oils, preferably non-silicone oils, ranging from 10% to 80%, more preferentially from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, better still from 30% to 70% by weight and even more advantageously from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- Betaine amphoteric surfactants and/or tertiary fatty amines comprising at least one Cn- Cjo fatty chain
- composition of the invention also comprises one or more betaine surfactants and/or one or more tertiary fatty amines comprising at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain.
- the ingredient b) represents one or more betaine surfactants.
- betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I), and also the optional organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and solvates thereof such as hydrates:
- R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 100 carbon atoms and in particular from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, divalent groups, or combinations thereof chosen from -0-, -C(O)- and -N(R)-; with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a CrC 4 alkyl radical, and R 1 also possibly being interrupted with an arylene group or terminated with an aryl group;
- R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, in particular R 2 and R 3 are identical, denote a (CrC 6 )alkyl group; preferably, R 2 and R 3 represent a methyl group;
- R 4 denotes a linear or branched, preferably linear, divalent hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups;
- Z denotes a heteroatom or a divalent group chosen from -O- and -N( )- with R as defined previously,
- n denotes a number equal to 1 or 2;
- m denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1 ;
- radicals R 1 R 2 R 3 N + -R'-(Z) m - are identical or different, preferably identical;
- the surfactant of formula (I) being electrically neutral, it may comprise anionic and/or cationic counterions to produce the electrical neutrality of the molecule.
- unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain means a hydrocarbon-based chain which comprises one or more double bonds and/or one or more triple bonds, said bonds possibly being conjugated or unconjugated.
- alkyi radical means a saturated, linear or branched, preferably of Ci-C 8 , hydrocarbon-based radical.
- alkenyl radical means a linear or branched, preferably C 2 -C 8 , hydrocarbon-based radical; which is unsaturated, comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds.
- alkoxy radical means an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyi radical is a linear or branched C Ci 6 and preferentially Ci-C 8 hydrocarbon-based radical.
- aryP' radical means a fused or non-fused monocyclic or polycyclic carbon- based group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and in which at least one ring is aromatic; preferentially, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl.
- arylene radical means a fused or non-fused monocyclic or polycyclic, divalent aromatic carbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and in which at least one ring is aromatic, preferably phenylene and more preferentially 1 ,3- phenylene or 1 ,4-phenylene.
- radicals may be substituted with one or more radicals chosen from the following radicals: i) hydroxyl, ii) CrC 4 alkoxy, iii) acylamino, iv) amino optionally substituted with one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyi radicals, said alkyi radicals possibly forming, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a 5- to 7-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another nitrogen or non-nitrogen heteroatom.
- organic or mineral acid salt more particularly means salts chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCI, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(0) 2 OH such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(0) 2 OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid; x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-0-S(0)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phospho
- organic or mineral base salt more particularly means salts chosen from a salt derived from basifying agents as defined in “e) Additional basifying agents” hereinbelow.
- anionic counterion means an anion or an anionic group derived from an organic or mineral acid salt which counterbalances the cationic charge of the dye; more particularly, the anionic counterion is chosen from: i) halides such as chloride or bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including Ci-C 6 alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(0) 2 0 " such as methanesulfonate or mesylate and ethanesulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(0) 2 0 " such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-0-S(0)0 " such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;
- the cationic counterion(s) are chosen from alkali metals such as Na or
- the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (I) in which n is equal to 1 and G " denotes an anionic radical chosen from * -C(0)0- and * -S(0) 2 -0 " .
- the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (I) in which R 4 denotes a linear C1-C5 divalent alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, such as -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH 2 -CH(OH)-CH 2 - or -CH 2 -CH 2 -.
- the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (I) in which m is 1 and Z represents an oxygen atom or a group -N(R)- with R as defined previously. More preferentially, when m is 1 , then Z represents an oxygen atom.
- the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (I) in which m is 0.
- the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (I) in which R 1 denotes a group chosen from i) C 6 -C 3 o alkyl; ii) C 6 -C 3 o alkenyl; -(C6-C 3 o)alkylamido(Ci-C 4 )alkyl or -(C 6 - C 30 )alkenylamido(Ci-C 4 )alkyl, with amido representing a group -C(0)-N(R)- and R being as defined previously.
- R denotes a hydrogen atom.
- R 1 denotes a linear or branched, preferably linear, C 6 -C 3 o alkyl radical.
- the betaine surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention are chosen from (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 - C 8 )alkylbetaines and (C 8 -C 2 o)alkylamido(C6-C 8 )alkylsulfobetaines, better still from (C 8 - C 20 )alkylbetaines and (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines and even better still from (C 8 -C 20 )a I ky I beta i n es .
- the betaine surfactant according to the invention is cocoylbetaine.
- the amount of ingredient b) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 50% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the ingredient b) represents one or more tertiary fatty amines comprising at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain.
- the tertiary amine(s) used in the dye composition according to the invention comprise at least one saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 3 o hydrocarbon-based chain.
- the tertiary amine(s) used in the dye composition according to the invention comprise at least one C 8 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl chain.
- the tertiary amine(s) comprise at least one saturated or unsaturated Ci 2 - C 3 o, especially Ci 5 -C 2 o and in particular Ci 8 hydrocarbon-based chain.
- the tertiary amine(s) comprise at least one unsaturated C 8 -C 30 and in particular Ci 8 hydrocarbon-based chain.
- the tertiary amine(s) used in the dye composition according to the invention may be chosen especially from alkylamidoamines, such as (C 8 -C 30 )alkylamidodi(Cr C 6 )alkylamines and (C 8 -C 30 )alkenylamidodi(Ci-C 6 )alkylamines.
- the tertiary amine(s) are chosen from (Ci2-C 30 )alkylamidodi(Ci- C 6 )alkylamines and (Ci2-C 30 )alkenylamidodi(Ci-C 6 )alkylamines, especially (Ci 5 - C2o)alkenylamidodi(Ci-C 4 )alkylamines.
- the tertiary amines according to the invention are chosen from the oleylamidopropyldimethylamine sold under the name Mackine 501V by the company Maclntyre and the stearamidopropyldimethylamine sold under the name Mackine 301 by the company Maclntyre, or mixtures thereof.
- the tertiary amines comprising at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain are chosen from oleylamidopropyldimethylamine.
- composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the dye composition comprises one or more non-silicone liquid fatty substances and one or more tertiary amines comprising at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain, chosen from (C 8 -C 30 )alkylamidodi(Ci-C 6 )alkylamines and (C 8 -C 30 )alkenylamidodi(Ci- C 6 )alkylamines.
- the ingredient b) represents a mixture of one or more betaine amphoteric surfactants as defined previously and of one or more tertiary fatty amines comprising at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain as defined previously.
- composition according to the invention then advantageously comprises a total amount of the mixture of one or more betaine amphoteric surfactants as defined previously and of one or more tertiary fatty amines comprising at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain as defined previously ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition for dyeing keratin fibres according to the invention may also contain one or more additional or supplementary surfactants, i.e. other than the betaine amphoteric surfactants and/or the tertiary fatty amines as defined previously.
- the supplementary surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants, and preferentially nonionic surfactants.
- anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of alkyi sulfates, alkyi ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, oolefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkyi sulfosuccinates, alkyi ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyi sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyi sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyi monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids
- the salts of C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
- anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
- alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
- amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
- Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
- Use is preferably made, among the anionic surfactants mentioned, of (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
- (Ci 2 -C 20 )alkyl sulfates (Ci 2 -C 20 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
- sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.
- the cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
- quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
- R 8 to Ri i which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R 8 to Rn comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and
- ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl or (Ci-C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
- the aliphatic groups of R 8 to Rn may also comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
- the aliphatic groups of R 8 to Rn are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2 -C 6 )alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci 2 -C22)alkylamido(C2-C 6 )alkyl, (C12- C 2 2)alkyl acetate and Ci-C 30 hydroxyalkyl groups, X " is an anionic counterion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates and (d- C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
- tetraalkylammonium chlorides for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetatejammonium chlor
- ⁇ Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;
- ⁇ Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- ⁇ Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
- ⁇ Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group
- ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (CrC 4 )alkyl or (Ci-C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonates.
- R-12 and Ri 3 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, Ri 4 denotes a methyl group, and R-I5 denotes a hydrogen atom.
- a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- ⁇ R-16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;
- R-I7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 )3-N + (R 16a )(R 17 a)(Ri8a), X " ;
- R 16a , Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- ⁇ X " which may be identical or different, represent an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (CrC 4 )alkyl or (Ci-C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
- Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75); quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (A7) below:
- R 2 2 is chosen from CrC 6 alkyl groups and CrC 6 hydroxyalkyl or CrC 6 dihydroxyalkyl groups,
- ⁇ R23 is chosen from:
- ⁇ R25 is chosen from:
- Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups R 29 - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups R 29 ,
- R24, R26 and R 2 s which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
- ⁇ y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
- ⁇ x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
- ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion
- the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
- R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
- the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 10.
- R23 is an R 27 hydrocarbon-based group, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R 25 is an R 29 hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R 24 , R2 6 and R 28 which are identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 2 i hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 2 i alkyl and alkenyl groups.
- x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .
- y is equal to 1 .
- r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
- the anionic counterion X " is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (CrC 4 )alkyl- or (CrC 4 )alkylarylsulfonate.
- a halide such as chloride, bromide or iodide
- a (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (CrC 4 )alkyl- or (CrC 4 )alkylarylsulfonate it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.
- the anionic counterion X " is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
- R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
- - R 25 is chosen from: o
- R 2 4, 26 and R 2 8 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
- hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
- examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
- acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
- This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
- an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
- Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
- composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of monoesters, diesters and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.
- ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
- ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
- cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
- nonionic surfactants that can be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 1 16-178. They are especially chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (CrC 2 o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated, and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to especially range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to especially range from 2 to 30.
- the nonionic surfactants are chosen more particularly from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated or mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
- the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
- oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include:
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyethylene glycols • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- the surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and preferably between 2 and 30.
- the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.
- the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide; polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acids and of sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 4 o alcohols are preferably used.
- R 2 9 represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 40 and preferably C 8 -C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl radical
- ⁇ m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
- lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
- the alcohol of formula (A8) may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
- the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 /Ci 0 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C1 0 /C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
- the surfactant used in the process of the invention in the composition is a monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, particularly monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated, or monooxypropylenated or polyoxypropylenated, nonionic surfactant, or a combination thereof, more particularly monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated.
- the surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants. More particularly, the surfactant(s) present in the composition are chosen from nonionic surfactants.
- the composition and the process for treating (dyeing) keratin fibres use one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular mono- or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants; and/or one or more anionic surfactants, in particular of alkyl sulfate type.
- the nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
- the amount of the additional surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 50% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the invention comprises c) one or more oxidation bases chosen from (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol (or 2- -hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine) of the following formula, and also acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates:
- the oxidation base(s) chosen from (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates, according to the invention, are advantageously in an amount ranging from 0.0001 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.01 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional oxidation bases, i.e. oxidation bases other than (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates.
- additional base(s) are chosen from heterocyclic bases and benzene bases, and the addition salts thereof.
- the benzene oxidation bases according to the invention are particularly chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols and ortho-aminophenols, and the addition salts thereof.
- para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis( -N-bis
- para-phenylenediamine or PPD para-tolylenediamine or PTD
- 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine 2- ⁇ - hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine
- 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine 2,6- diethyl-para-phenylenediamine
- 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine
- N,N-bis( - hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2- ⁇ - acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid
- 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2- ⁇ - acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine 2- ⁇ - acetylaminoethyloxy-para
- the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis-( - hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophen
- para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( -hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
- ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
- heterocyclic bases according to the invention are more particularly chosen from pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives, and the addition salts thereof.
- pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.
- pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the dyeing process according to the invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.
- Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid- 3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diamin
- pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571 , JP 05-63124 and EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4- hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6- diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and addition salts thereof, and tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
- pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1 - methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1 -(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- methyl-1 -phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1 ,3-dimethyl- 5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5
- Use will preferably be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and more preferably still of
- Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino- 6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro- 1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2- a]pyrazol-1 -one, 4,5-diamin
- Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2- a]pyrazol-1 -one and/or a salt thereof.
- Heterocyclic bases that will preferentially be used include 4,5-diamino-1-(P- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 - one and/or a salt thereof.
- the additional oxidation base(s) according to the invention each advantageously represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. d) Additional couplers
- the composition of the invention may comprise one or more couplers.
- the composition and the process use one or more couplers.
- couplers mention may be made especially of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof.
- the coupler(s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
- addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are selected in particular from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
- an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
- the composition does not contain any para- phenylenediamine (PPD) and/or the process for treating keratin fibres does not use PPD.
- the composition and/or the process for treating keratin fibres do not use chlorinated bases or halogenated couplers, in particular chlorinated bases or couplers such as those chosen from 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 2,6-dichloro-4-aminophenol, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol, 3-amino-5- chloroaniline, 2-chloro-4-aminophenol and 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol.
- the composition and/or the process for treating keratin fibres do not use 3-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-1 -propanol couplers.
- composition of the invention may also comprise one or more direct dyes.
- the latter are more particularly chosen from ionic or nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species.
- These direct dyes may be synthetic or of natural origin.
- Suitable direct dyes include the following direct dyes: azo dyes; methine dyes; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
- the dyes of this family are derived from compounds of the type such as methines, azomethines, monoarylmethanes and diarylmethanes, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanins, azacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, diazacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, tetraazacarbocyanins and hemicyanins.
- compounds of the type such as methines, azomethines, monoarylmethanes and diarylmethanes, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanins, azacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, diazacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, tetraazacarbocyanins and hemicyanins.
- dyes of the carbonyl family examples that may be mentioned include dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin.
- dyes chosen from acridone benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone,
- dyes of the cyclic azine family mention may be made especially of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine and pyronin.
- nitro(hetero)aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.
- cationic or non-cationic compounds optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for instance alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.
- Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes include nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes; azomethine direct dyes; methine direct dyes; azacarbocyanin direct dyes, for instance tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines); quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; indoamine direct dyes; indigoid direct dyes; phthalocyanin direct dyes, porphyrin direct dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
- the direct dye(s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the invention may also comprise e) one or more basifying agents.
- the composition and the process for treating keratin fibres use one or more basifying agents.
- the basifying agent(s) may be inorganic or organic or hybrid.
- the inorganic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.
- the organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pK b at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pK b corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
- the organic amines do not comprise an alkyl or alkenyl fatty chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
- the organic basifying agent(s) are) chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds having formula (II) below:
- W is a divalent CrC 6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a CrC 6 alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR U ;
- R x , R y , R z , R t and R u which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 6 alkyl, Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or CrC 6 aminoalkyl radical.
- amines of formula (II) examples include 1 ,3- diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
- alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC 8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
- organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
- MAA monoethanolamine
- diethanolamine triethanolamine
- monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
- N- dimethylaminoethanolamine 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol
- triisopropanolamine 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2- propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
- amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions.
- the amino acids can be in the neutral or ionic form.
- amino acids which can be used in the present invention, of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
- amino acids which can be used in the present invention, of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
- the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
- Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (III) below:
- R represents a group chosen from: imidazolyl, preferably 4- imidazolyl; -(CH 2 ) 3 NH 2 ; -(CH 2 ) 2 NH 2 ; -(CH 2 ) 2 -NH-C(0)-NH 2 ; and
- the compounds corresponding to formula (III) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
- the organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Mention may in particular be made, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole or benzimidazole.
- the organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
- amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
- the organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
- amines of this type that can be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4- guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
- Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.
- Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be used in particular.
- the basifying agent(s) present in the composition of the invention are chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, and preferably corresponding to those having the formula (III). Even more preferentially, the basifying agent(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA) and basic amino acids in neutral or ionic form.
- MEA monoethanolamine
- the composition according to the invention has a content of basifying agent(s) ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to
- the composition according to the invention does not contain, or else the process according to the invention does not use any aqueous ammonia, or a salt thereof, as basifying agent.
- the composition or the process did use any, its content would advantageously not exceed 0.03% by weight (expressed as NH 3 ) and would preferably not exceed 0.01 % by weight relative to the weight of the composition of the invention.
- the amount of basifying agent(s) other than the aqueous ammonia is greater than that of the aqueous ammonia (expressed as NH 3 ).
- composition of the invention comprises f) one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
- chemical oxidizing agent means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
- composition of the invention preferably contains one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
- the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates or perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal percarbonates.
- This oxidizing agent advantageously consists of hydrogen peroxide.
- the concentration of chemical oxidizing agents may range more particularly from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- composition of the invention does not contain any peroxygenated salts.
- composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more organic solvents.
- organic solvents examples include linear or branched C 2 - C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
- linear or branched C 2 - C 4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
- glycerol polyols and polyol ethers
- 2-butoxyethanol propylene glycol
- dipropylene glycol propylene glycol monomethyl ether
- diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether
- aromatic alcohols or ethers for instance benzyl alcohol or
- the solvent(s), if they are present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 % to
- composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dye compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays or talc; organic thickeners with, in particular, anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers.
- adjuvants conventionally used in hair dye compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays or talc; organic thickeners with, in particular, anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants;
- the above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- composition may especially comprise one or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, or mixtures thereof.
- the organophilic clay may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
- the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
- These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
- quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonite, such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay.
- the fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which contain a large number of silanol groups at their surface.
- hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-Sil EH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM-130®, Cab- O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5® by the company Cabot.
- silica It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction for the purpose of reducing the number of silanol groups. It is possible in particular to replace silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
- hydrophobic groups can be:
- Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot.
- Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS- 720® by the company Cabot.
- the fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
- the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified fumed silica.
- the mineral thickener represents from 1 % to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- composition may also comprise one or more organic thickeners.
- thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut acid diethanolamide or monoethanolamide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners, such as cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic regions and hydrophobic regions having a fatty chain (alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) which are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with one another or with other molecules).
- fatty acid amides coconut acid diethanolamide or monoethanolamide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic
- the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose- based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum) and crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulose-based thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.
- cellulose- based thickeners hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose
- guar gum and derivatives thereof hydroxypropyl guar
- gums of microbial origin xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum
- crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and preferably from cellulose-based thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.
- the composition of the invention may be in various forms, for instance a solution, an emulsion (milk or cream) or a gel, preferably in the form of an emulsion and particularly of a direct emulsion. Processes of the invention
- composition according to the invention comprising the ingredients a) to f) as defined previously is applied to dry or wet keratin fibres. It is left in place on the fibres for a time generally of from 1 minute to 1 hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.
- the temperature during the dyeing process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15°C and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
- the human keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
- composition according to the invention is generally prepared by mixing at least two compositions.
- composition according to the invention comprising the ingredients a) to f) as defined previously results from the mixing of two compositions:
- composition (A) comprising c) at least one oxidation base chosen from (2,5- diaminophenyl)ethanol, addition salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates; d) optionally at least one coupler as defined previously; e) at least one basifying agent as defined previously; and
- composition (B) comprising f) at least one chemical oxidizing agent as defined previously,
- compositions (A) or (B) comprises a) at least one fatty substance that is preferably a non-silicone liquid as defined previously, and b) at least one betaine amphoteric surfactant and/or at least one tertiary fatty amine as defined previously, such that the content of fatty substances in the composition according to the invention resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) + (B) comprises at least 10%, in particular at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight and more preferentially at least 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition derived form the mixture of (A)+(B).
- at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) is aqueous.
- both the compositions (A) and (B) are aqueous.
- aqueous composition means a composition comprising at least 5% water.
- an aqueous composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water and more advantageously still more than 20% by weight of water.
- composition (A) is aqueous.
- composition (A) comprises at least 50% of fatty substances and even more preferentially at least 50% of non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25°C).
- composition (A) is a direct or inverse emulsion and preferably a direct
- compositions (A) and (B) are preferably mixed in an (A)/(B) weight ratio ranging from 0.2 to 10 and better still from 0.5 to 2.
- composition according to the invention comprising ingredients a) to f) as defined previously results from the mixing of three compositions, the three compositions being aqueous or at least one of them being anhydrous.
- anhydrous cosmetic composition means a cosmetic composition with a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and more preferably still less than 1 % by weight relative to the weight of said composition.
- water present in the composition is more particularly "bound water", such as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the preparation of the compositions according to the invention.
- the anhydrous composition ( ⁇ ') then preferably comprises a) at least one fatty substance as defined previously and more preferentially at least one liquid fatty substance.
- Composition ( ⁇ ') then preferably comprises c) at least the oxidation base chosen from (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates and d) optionally at least one coupler as defined previously.
- Composition (C) then preferably comprises f) at least one chemical oxidizing agent as defined previously.
- the basifying agent(s) e) as defined previously are included in the compositions (A) and/or ( ⁇ ') and preferably solely in composition ( ⁇ ').
- the betaine amphoteric surfactant(s) and/or the tertiary fatty amine(s) b) as defined previously are included in at least one of the compositions ( ⁇ '), ( ⁇ ') or (C), these three compositions being such that the fatty substance content of the composition according to the invention resulting from the mixing of the three compositions (A')+(B')+(C) comprises at least 10%, in particular at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight and more preferentially at least 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition derived from the mixture (A')+(B')+(C).
- compositions ( ⁇ '), ( ⁇ ') and (C) are preferably mixed in a weight ratio (A)+(B')/(C) ranging from 0.2 to 10 and better still from 0.5 to 2 and in a weight ratio ( ⁇ ')/( ⁇ ') ranging from 0.5 to 10 and better still from 1 to 5.
- the invention relates to a first multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing composition (A) as described above and at least a second compartment containing composition (B) as described above, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application to give the formulation after mixing according to the invention, provided that the amount of fatty substance in this formulation represents at least 10%, in particular at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight and more preferentially at least 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition resulting from the mixing of (A)+(B).
- the invention also relates to a second multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing composition ( ⁇ ') as described above and a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition ( ⁇ ') as described above and at least a third compartment comprising composition (C) as described above, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application to give the formulation after mixing according to the invention, provided that the amount of fatty substance in this formulation represents at least 10%, in particular at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight and more preferentially at least 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition resulting from the mixing of (A')+(B')+(C).
- the evaluation of the coloration can be done visually or read on a spectrocolorimeter (such as Minolta CM3600d, illuminant D65, angle 10°, SCI values) for the L * , a * , b * colorimetric measurements.
- L * represents the intensity of the color
- a * indicates the green/red color axis
- b * indicates the blue/yellow color axis.
- the lower the value of L the darker or more intense the color.
- the higher the value of a * the redder the shade; the higher the value of b * , the yellower the shade.
- ⁇ * corresponding to the colour uptake on keratin fibers, according to the following equation:
- L * , a * and b * represent the values measured after dyeing the natural hair comprising 90% of white hairs and L 0 * , a 0 * and b 0 * represent the values measured for the untreated natural hair comprising 90% of white hairs.
- ⁇ * - ( L * — L o * ) 2 + ( a * — a o * f + ( b * - b 0 * ) 2
- L * , a * and b * represent the values measured after dyeing the natural hair comprising 90% of white hairs and L 0 * , a 0 * and b 0 * represent the values measured after dyeing the permed or sensibilised hair.
- the lowest ⁇ * the best homogeneity of the hair color.
- ⁇ * is also calculated for the L 0 * , a 0 * , b 0 * and L * , a * , b * measured of the locks before and after exposure to the light, respectively.
- compositions are prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams of active materials.
- Cocoylbetaine as an aqueous solution (betaine surfactant b) 10
- the dye composition A1 is mixed with the oxidizing formula B1 in a ratio of 3 parts of A1 per 4 parts of B1 .
- the mixture A1 +B1 obtained is then applied to 90% grey hair.
- the "mixture/lock” bath ratio is 10/1 (g/g).
- the leave-on time is 35 minutes at 27°C.
- the hair is rinsed with clear water and a shampoo is applied.
- compositions are prepared, in which the amounts are expressed grams of product in their given state.
- composition A2 Composition A2
- the dye composition A2 is mixed with the oxidizing composition B2, at a rate of one part of dye composition per one part of oxidizing composition.
- the mixtures A2+B2 are then applied to locks of hair comprising 90% white hairs, at a rate of 10 grams of mixture per one gram of lock.
- the hair is rinsed with clear water and a conditioning shampoo is then applied to the hair.
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Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition pour la coloration de fibres kératiniques, comprenant a) une ou plusieurs substances grasses qui sont de préférence des liquides non siliconés, et b) au moins un surfactant amphotère à base de bétaïne et/ou une amine grasse tertiaire, c) du (2,5-diaminophényl)éthanol ; d) facultativement, au moins un agent de couplage ; e) facultativement au moins un agent basifiant ; f) au moins un agent d'oxydation chimique tel que le peroxyde d'hydrogène, et la teneur en substances grasses dans la composition représentant au total au moins 15 % et de préférence plus de 25 % en poids relativement au poids total de la composition. La présente invention concerne également un procédé utilisation ladite composition et un dispositif à compartiments multiples pour réaliser ledit procédé.
Applications Claiming Priority (8)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1252948A FR2988597B1 (fr) | 2012-03-30 | 2012-03-30 | Composition comprenant le (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, une amine grasse tertiaire dans un milieu riche en corps gras, procede de coloration et dispositif |
FR1252948 | 2012-03-30 | ||
FR1252936 | 2012-03-30 | ||
FR1252936A FR2988594B1 (fr) | 2012-03-30 | 2012-03-30 | Composition de coloration mettant en oeuvre le (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, un tensio actif amphotere betainique dans un milieu riche en corps gras, le procede de coloration et le dispositif |
US201261640191P | 2012-04-30 | 2012-04-30 | |
US61/640,191 | 2012-04-30 | ||
US201261700986P | 2012-09-14 | 2012-09-14 | |
US61/700,986 | 2012-09-14 |
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WO2013152956A1 true WO2013152956A1 (fr) | 2013-10-17 |
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PCT/EP2013/056592 WO2013152956A1 (fr) | 2012-03-30 | 2013-03-27 | Composition de coloration capillaire utilisant du (2,5-diaminophényl)éthanol, un surfactant amphotère à base de bétaïne ou une amine grasse tertiaire dans un milieu riche en substances grasses |
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TWI586714B (zh) * | 2016-06-24 | 2017-06-11 | 萬能學校財團法人萬能科技大學 | 一種尼龍纖維材料的染色組成物及使用其之染色程序 |
JP2018503613A (ja) * | 2014-12-17 | 2018-02-08 | ロレアル | パラ−フェニレンジアミン酸化ベース及び特定のカップラーを含む染料組成物 |
GB2554487A (en) * | 2016-05-03 | 2018-04-04 | Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa | Solid-stabilized coloring creams and kit for dyeing hair |
EP3021827B1 (fr) * | 2013-07-19 | 2018-08-22 | L'oreal | Composition de colorant comportant un tensioactif amphotère particulier et un tensioactif sulfate ou sulfonate |
US10130575B2 (en) | 2014-12-17 | 2018-11-20 | L'oreal | Dye composition comprising a para-phenylenediamine oxidation base, an amphoteric surfactant in a medium rich in fatty substances |
US10179097B2 (en) | 2014-12-17 | 2019-01-15 | L'oreal | Dye composition comprising a para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and an amphoteric or cationic polymer in a medium rich in fatty substances |
US10195126B2 (en) | 2014-12-17 | 2019-02-05 | L'oreal | Dye composition comprising a para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and a heterocyclic oxidation base |
US10201484B2 (en) | 2014-12-17 | 2019-02-12 | L'oreal | Dye composition comprising a para-phenylenediamine oxidation base, a polysaccharide thickener in a medium rich in fatty substances |
US10314773B2 (en) | 2014-12-17 | 2019-06-11 | L'oreal | Dye composition comprising a para-phenylenediamine oxidation base, a nonionic surfactant in a medium rich in fatty substances |
US10639254B2 (en) | 2014-12-17 | 2020-05-05 | L'oreal | Dye composition comprising a para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and an additional base |
US11213471B2 (en) | 2015-12-21 | 2022-01-04 | L'oreal | Composition for dyeing the hair, comprising an oxidation base, a 2-amino-5-ethylphenol coupler and a fatty substance |
US11324682B2 (en) | 2015-12-21 | 2022-05-10 | L'oreal | Composition for dyeing the hair, comprising an oxidation base of para-phenylenediamine type and a 2-amino-5-ethylphenol coupler |
US11730688B2 (en) | 2015-12-21 | 2023-08-22 | L'oreal | Composition for dyeing the hair, comprising a heterocyclic oxidation base and a 2-amino-5-ethylphenol coupler |
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