WO2012145862A1 - Emulsion w/si foundation - Google Patents
Emulsion w/si foundation Download PDFInfo
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- WO2012145862A1 WO2012145862A1 PCT/CN2011/000753 CN2011000753W WO2012145862A1 WO 2012145862 A1 WO2012145862 A1 WO 2012145862A1 CN 2011000753 W CN2011000753 W CN 2011000753W WO 2012145862 A1 WO2012145862 A1 WO 2012145862A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the field of making up and/or caring for the keratinic materials, in particular the skin and is targeted in particular at providing cosmetic compositions, in particular fluid cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions, which are capable, on application, of providing a very fresh feeling via the water droplets on keratinic materials in particular the skin and a long time moisturization, as well as a makeup efficacy.
- Another subject-matter of the invention is a corresponding care and/or make-up method.
- the composition can in particular be a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a tinted cream and a composition for making up the body.
- Foundation compositions are commonly used to contribute to an attractive colour to the skin, in particular to the face, but also to conceal imperfections of the skin, such as red blotches or blemishes. Many corresponding formulations have to date been developed which can in particular be differentiated from one another according to whether they have a fluid structure or a solid structure.
- the present invention is more particularly concerned with compositions having a texture which is sufficiently fluid to be compatible with application with the fingers by the user.
- the present invention is more particularly dedicated to composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion.
- the size of the droplets in water-in-oil emulsions ranges between 1 and 5 ⁇ . Larger droplet size may be sought in order to increase the easiness to break the system and thus to obtain a fresh and light feeling for the consumer when applying it on the skin.
- the traditional liquid foundation may leave the skin dry after application. This may be due to their low capability to wrap large amounts of water.
- the getting of watery texture is usually in contradiction with the stability of the emulsion so that balancing the stability and the watery feeling is one of the difficulties the man skilled in the art is faced with.
- One way to have watery feeling is to enlarge water droplet in the emulsion. Indeed, merely enlarging droplet size presents a concern in terms of stability in view of their easiness to break.
- the present inventors have discovered that the specific combination of (i) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, (ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol, and (iii) at least one C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol may satisfy the abovementioned requirements.
- the specific composition in the form of a water- in-silicone emulsion according to the invention provides water droplets with a larger size, i.e. 5-20 ⁇ , in comparison to traditional emulsions with a good stability and an improved fresh sensation when applied on keratinic material. Consequently, it makes it possible to increase the amounts of water dispensed to the skin. Those bigger water droplets are moreover still easier to break than small droplets, i.e 2-5 ⁇ .
- a subject-matter of the present invention is a fluid care and/or make-up cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion in particular dedicated to the skin comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and
- R 2 and R 3 represent, independently of one another, a C C 6 alkyl radical or a -(CH 2 ) X - (OCH 2 CH2) y - (OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 ) z - OR 4 radical, at least one R R 2 or R 3 radical not being an alkyl radical; t being a hydrogen, a C ! -C 3 alkyl radical or a C 2 -C 4 acyl radical;
- A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
- B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5, and
- - PE represents from groups (-C2H 4 0) x -(C 3 H 6 0) y -R, wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and
- - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40
- n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200
- o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100
- p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21
- q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.
- compositions according to the invention exhibit a good stability at ambient temperature (25°C).
- the stability of the compositions according to the present invention also exhibit a good stability at 37°C or 45°C, in particular after storing for 2 months.
- compositions according to the invention prove to be very easy to apply to the skin with a good spreadability, are distributed homogeneously over the skin and provide the user with a feeling of freshness and a long time moisturization after application.
- compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one thickening agent, which can be more particularly silica dimethyl silylate.
- compositions of the invention can moreover comprise at least one filler, which can be more particularly boron nitride.
- stable refers in the sense of the present invention to a composition which, after having been placed in an oven at 45°C for two months, does not, when returned to ambient temperature, exhibit grains perceptible to the touch when a fine layer of the composition is sheared between the fingers.
- fluid is understood to characterize an ability of the composition to flow under its own weight and in particular to spread when it is deposited on a flat surface.
- sicone is understood to denote, in conformity with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a branched or crosslinked and linear or cyclic structure of variable molecular weight obtained by polymerisation and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalised silanes and essentially composed of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond ⁇ Si-0-Si ⁇ ), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
- the commonest hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular Ci-Cio alkyl radicals and especially methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals and aryl radicals, in particular phenyl radicals. They can, for example, be substituted by Cj-Qo ester or ether groups or C 7 -C 60 aralkyl groups.
- volatile oil is understood to mean, in the present invention, an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature and which has in particular a nonzero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular which has a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
- the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150°C to 260°C and preferably ranging from 170°C to 250°C.
- silicon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
- fluorinated oil is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
- hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil essentially formed, and even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms which does not comprise a silicon or fluorine atom; it can comprise ester, ether, amine and amide groups.
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer (also named silicone elastomer).
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer might be an emulsifying elastomer or a non- emulsifying elastomer.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglyqerolated units, which is also known under the name of non-emulsifying elastomer.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain, or non-emulsifying silicone elastomer can be defined as being an elastomeric crossbonded organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking coupling reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin compound; or by crosslinking coupling reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organo
- the elastomeric crossbonded organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patent application EP-A-295 886.
- the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogeno- polysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
- Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).
- Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example C 2 -C 4 ) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
- the organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred.
- Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
- the organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methyl- vinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoro- propyl)polysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and
- Compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for compound (A2).
- the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.
- Compound (B2) may be in any molecular structure, especially of linear-chain or branched-chain structure, or cyclic structure.
- Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially in order to have good miscibility with compound (A).
- compound (B2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all of the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
- Compound (B2) may be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
- Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
- the catalyst (C2) is preferably added in from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).
- Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel.
- the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is particularly in the form of non- spherical particles.
- the silicone oil mixed with the organopolysiloxane elastomer to form a gel is a linear silicone oil (dimethylsiloxane) with molecular weight ranging from 1 to 350cst at 25°C, in particular 2 to lOOcst and preferably 2 to lOcst.
- the silicone oil viscosity might be measured according to ASTM D-445 norm.
- organopolysiloxane elastomer mixed with linear silicone oil used in the invention, mention may be made of the following references:
- DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE, such as the commercial references « KSG-6 » and « KSG- 16 » sold by Shin Etsu;
- DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as the commercial reference « DC9041 » sold by Dow Corning.
- the composition comprises at least a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer in a form of a gel wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with a linear silicone oil having a viscosity ranging from 1 to lOOcst at 25 °C, in particular 1 to lOcst at 25 °C, in particular the one having INCI Name DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE, such as the commercial references « KSG-6 » and « KSG-16 » sold by Shin Etsu, preferably KSG- 16.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an emulsifying elastomer.
- Emulsifying silicone elastomer is understood as meaning a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.
- the emulsifying silicone elastomer can be chosen from amongst the elastomers of polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated silicone.
- the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and one polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
- polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in the patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793 and US5811487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.
- the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst.
- Such polyglycerolated elastomers are especially described in the patent application WO2004/024798.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a non- emulsifying elastomer, i.e. an organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain.
- non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040, DC9041, DC9509, DC9505 and DC9506 by the company Dow Corning, Gransil by the company Grant Industries, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.
- the non-emulsifying elastomer that may more particularly be used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, more particularly those sold under the names KSG-15 and KSG-16, and preferentially the one sold under the name KSG-16.
- KSG-16 is a gel composed of 24% of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and of 76% of dimethicone.
- KSG15 is a gel composed of 6% of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and of 94% of cyclodimethicone.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer has I CI name dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
- composition according to the invention may comprise such an organopolysiloxane elastomer, in particular an non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 0.9% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.6% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.03% to 0.3% by weight, of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
- organopolysiloxane elastomer in particular an non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 0.9% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.6% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.03% to 0.3% by weight, of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions of the present invention comprise KSG-16 as non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.
- compositions of the invention comprise KSG-16 as non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 3%, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises at least one dimethicone copolyol.
- dimethicone copolyol employed according to the invention is advantageously an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane. Use may be made, as dimethicone copolyol, of those corresponding to the following formula (I):
- R 2 and R 3 represent, independently of one another, a C!-C 6 alkyl radical or a -(CH 2 )x - (OCH 2 CH2) y - (OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 ) z - OR4 radical, at least one R b R 2 or R 3 radical not being an alkyl radical; R 4 being a hydrogen, a C ! -C 3 alkyl radical or a C 2 -C 4 acyl radical;
- A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
- B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
- x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
- y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
- R 4 is in particular a hydrogen.
- A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105
- B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10
- y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
- Use may be made, as dimethicone copolyol, of those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning; and KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu.
- compositions of the invention comprise as dimethicone copolyol one of those sold under the names KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu, and more particularly KF-6017.
- the INCI name of KF-6017 is PEG- 10 dimethicone.
- the dimethicone copolyol can be present in the emulsion according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, and preferentially from 0.3% to 1% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.
- compositions of the invention comprise PEG- 10 dimethicone as dimethicone copolyol, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, and preferentially from 0.3% to 1% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.
- compositions of the invention comprise PEG- 10 dimethicone as dimethicone copolyol, and a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain.
- the droplets in the compositions of the present invention have a size that ranges from 2 ⁇ to 50 ⁇ , particularly from 2 ⁇ to 40 ⁇ , more particularly from 5 ⁇ to 30 ⁇ , and preferably from 5 ⁇ to 20 ⁇ .
- a composition according to the invention comprises, further to an organopolysiloxane elastomer and a dimethicone copolyol, at least one C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol.
- composition of the invention comprises at least one C 8 -C 2 2 alkyl dimethicone copolyol.
- This Cg-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the invention is more particularly an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C 8 -C 22 ) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.
- the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (IV):
- - PE represents from groups (-C 2 H 4 0) x -(C 3 H 6 0) y -R, wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and
- - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40
- n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200
- o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100
- p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21
- q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.
- R is a hydrogen atom
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 10
- n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100
- o is an integer ranging from 1 to 30
- p is 15, and q is 3.
- the at least one C 8 C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is chosen from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
- the at least one C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol may be present, for example, in the emulsion disclosed herein in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the C8-C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and more particularly the product marketed under the name Abil EM- 90 by the company Goldschmidt.
- Abil EM-90 is a cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone.
- compositions of the invention comprise a cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone as C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, herein in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions of the invention comprise cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone as C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol and a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain.
- compositions of the invention comprise a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain, a PEG- 10 dimethicone as dimethicone copolyol, and a cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone as C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol.
- compositions of the invention comprise from 0.03% to 0.3% by weight of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer in active material, from 0.3% to l%by weight of PEG-10 dimethicone, and 0.1% to 0.8% by weight of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Aqueous phase
- the aqueous phase is present in an amount equal or above 40% by weight, in particular above 55% by weight, indeed even above 70% by weight and especially more than 74% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- This aqueous phase can comprise alcohol(s), in particular ethanol; polyehthylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, maltitol, sorbitol, glycols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol or mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C j -C 4 )alkyl ether, and their mixtures.
- alcohol(s) in particular ethanol
- polyehthylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, maltitol, sorbitol, glycols, such as propylene
- the aqueous phase comprises water.
- the water can be a floral water, such as cornflower water, and/or a mineral water, such as water from Vittel, water from Lucas or water from La Roche-Posay, and/or a thermal water.
- the amount of water in the aqueous phase is higher than the total amount of occupants/polyols in said aqueous phase.
- the amount of polyols in the composition may represent from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the compositioa
- the aqueous phase can additionally comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, magnesium sulphate.
- stabilizing agents for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, magnesium sulphate.
- the aqueous phase is present in the emulsion according to the invention in a content ranging from 40% to 85%, preferably ranging from 60% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the fatty phase comprises from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 35% by weight and preferentially ranging from 20% to 30% by weight of volatile oil(s), with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- volatile oils hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and their mixture may be mentioned.
- a volatile hydrocarbon oil which can be used in the invention can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably ranging from 40°C to 55°C, and preferably ranging from 40°C to 50°C.
- volatile hydrocarbon oil of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, in particular branched Cg-C 16 alkanes, such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl commercial names, branched C 8 -C 16 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures.
- branched Cg-C 16 alkanes such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl commercial names, branched C 8 -C 16 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures.
- the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, in particular from isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and is in particular isododecane.
- the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be chosen from linear C8-C16 alkanes.
- linear C8-C16 alkanes examples include n-nonadecane (C9), n-decane (CIO), n-undecane (CI 1), n-dodecane (CI 2), n- tridecane (CI 3), n-tetradecane (CI 4), n-pentadecane (CI 5) and n-hexadecane (CI 6), and mixtures thereof.
- a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from n-nonadecane, n-undecane, n-dodecane and n- tridecane, and mixtures thereof.
- a volatile linear alkane may be used in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
- the volatile hydrocarbon oil can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight.
- the composition comprises at least 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, of volatile hydrocarbon oil.
- the volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention can be chosen from silicon oils having a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably having a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95 °C, and preferentially ranging from 65 °C to 95°C.
- silicone oil of linear or cyclic silicone oils especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 " m Is) and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- volatile silicone oil of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, de
- the volatile oil chosen from volatile silicone oils, volatile fluorinated oils and their mixtures can be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the fatty phase of the emulsion according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
- This non-volatile oil or one of its mixtures can be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably ranging from 3% to 30% by weight.
- the composition may comprise a weight ratio of aqueous phase/oil phase ranging from 1 to 10.
- a composition may comprise a weight ratio of aqueous phase/oil phase ranging from 1 to 8.
- a composition may comprise a weight ratio of aqueous phase/oil phase ranging from 2 to 5.
- the non-volatile oil can be chosen from carbon-comprising, hydrocarbon- comprising and/or silicone oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, and their mixtures, insofar as they are compatible with the use envisaged.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum, isoeicosane, mink, turtle or soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, sesame, corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cottonseed, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- hexyldexyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lac
- Non-volatile silicone oil of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), which are optionally phenylated, such as phenyl trimethicones, or optionally substituted by aliphatic and/or aromatic groups or by functional groups, such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and their mixtures.
- PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
- the fatty phase can also comprise at least one wax, at least one gum and/or at least one pasty fatty substance of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, indeed even silicone origin, and their mixtures.
- waxes which are solid at ambient temperature and which are capable of being present in the composition according to the invention, of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japan wax, cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, paraffin or lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and glycerides which are solid at 25°C.
- hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japan wax, cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, paraffin or lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and glycerides which are
- silicone waxes among which may be mentioned alkylpolymethylsiloxanes, alkoxypolymethylsiloxanes and/or polymethylsiloxane esters.
- the waxes can be provided in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles such that they can be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", edited by L.M. Prince, Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32. Mention may be made, as wax which is liquid at ambient temperature, of jojoba oil.
- the waxes can be present in a proportion of 0:1% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably of 0.1% to 2% by weight.
- the pasty fatty compounds can be defined using at least one of the following physicochemical properties:
- compositions of the invention can also comprise at least one alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl dimethicone, such as, for example, the product sold under the name of "Abil Wax 2440" by Goldschmidt.
- the emulsion according to the invention can additionally comprise a thickening agent for the fatty phase.
- the thickening agent can be chosen from:
- organomodified clays which are clays treated with compounds chosen in particular from quaternary amines or tertiary amines. Mention may be made, as organomodified clays, of organomodified bentonites, such as those sold under the name "Bentone 34" by Rheox, or organomodified hectorites, such as those sold under the name "Bentone 27" or “Bentone 38" by Rheox.
- Such silicas are sold, for example, under the references “Aerosil R812 ®” by Degussa and “Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ® " by Cabot and under the references “Aerosil R972 ® “ and “Aerosil R974 ® “ by Degussa and "Cab-O-Sil TS-610 ® “ and “Cab-O-Sil TS-720 ® " by Cabot.
- the thickening agent for the fatty phase can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, with respect to the fatty phase, and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight.
- the fatty phase can represent from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the compositions of the invention comprise a thickening agent into the fatty phase, in particular a hydrophobic pyrogenic silica,
- silica sold under the name Aerosil R972 by Degussa, which is a silica dimethyl silylate.
- Aerosil silicon dioxide made from vaporized silicon tetrachloride oxidized in high-temperature flame with hydrogen and oxygen, treated by hydrophobation (Aerosil
- R972 delivers several high important benefit to the formula and process. Indeed, it:
- compositions of the invention can comprise one or more of the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents; fillers; moisturising agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles; agents for combating free radicals; sequestering agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; colouring materials; and their mixtures.
- the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations.
- compositions according to the invention can advantageously comprise more than 5% by weight, in particular more than 3% by weight, indeed more than 0.1% by weight, of a pulverulent phase.
- a pulverulent phase covers all particles of pigment and/or filler type, as defined below.
- the fillers can be present in the emulsion in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably 0.1% to 1.5% by weight. Mention may in particular be ihade of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, starch, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, microcrystalline cellulose, powders formed of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides, such as those sold under the "Nylon” tradename, or polytetrafluoroethylene (“Teflon”), and silicone powders.
- compositions of the invention comprise in the fatty phase a filler, more particularly a boron nitride.
- Boron nitride when added to the compositions of the invention, improves the evenness of the water droplets and the affinity to the skin. It also improves the smooth feeling on skin of the compositions and provides a cushion feeling between product and skin.
- coloring materials can be water-soluble coloring materials of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.
- the pigments can be present in a hydrophobic coated form in the emulsion according to the invention. They can more particularly be pigments treated at the surface with a hydrophobic agent in order to render them compatible with the fatty phase of the emulsion, in particular in order for them to have good wettability with the oils of the fatty phase. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the fatty phase.
- the pigments intended to be coated can be inorganic or organic pigments. Use may be made, as pigments, of metal oxides, such as iron oxides, in particular those which are yellow, red, brown or black in colour, titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide or chromium oxide; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride, mother-of-pearl, mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, and their mixtures.
- metal oxides such as iron oxides, in particular those which are yellow, red, brown or black in colour, titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide or chromium oxide
- Use is preferably made of pigments formed of iron oxides or titanium oxide.
- a composition according to the invention can comprise a pigment chosen among titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide, iron dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide, and their mixture.
- a composition of the invention can comprise up to 18% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the hydrophobic treating agent can be chosen from silicones, such as methicones, dimethicones or perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate or the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, poly(hexafluoropropylene oxide)s, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl or perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N- acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and their mixtures.
- silicones such as methicones, dimethicones or perfluoroalkylsilanes
- fatty acids such as stearic acid
- metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate or the aluminium
- the N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
- the salts of these compounds can be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
- the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
- alkyl denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
- the hydrophobic coated pigments can be present in a composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 12% by weight.
- compositions according to the invention can comprise active principles.
- moisturising agents such as protein hydrolysates, and polyols, for example glycerol, glycols, for example polyethylene glycols,
- the sunscreens can be chosen from organic screening agents, physical screening agents and their mixtures, and can more particularly be ethylhexyl methoxycinnammate.
- the composition of the invention can comprise, as chemical sunscreens which can be used in the composition of the invention, any UV-A or UV-B screening agent which can be used in the cosmetics field.
- a water-in-silicone emulsion foundation conformed to the invention has been prepared from the following composition (the percentages are expressed in weight by weight of the total composition and the Active Material percentage (MA) is precised when required):
- Titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and)
- Iron dioxide and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and)
- composition was prepared as follows: In a pre-step:
- the silica dimethyl silylate was mixed with isononyl isononanoate and passed in Tricylinder one time.
- the pigments were dispersed in part of dimethicone and passed in Tricylinder three times.
- the UV filter and ethyl menthane carboxamide were mixed and heated to 75 °C the cooled at room T°C.
- the surfactants, oil phase and pigments are mixed by Euro-star with a blender speed of 230-250rpm (45-60 sec.)
- aqueous phase is prepared to get a translucent solution.
- aqueous phase is then slowly added to the fatty phase (surfactants, oils and pigments) and mixed with blender speed 130-140rmp .
- the blender speed is finally increased to 800rmp-900rmp (3 sec).
- Step 1 Pick up same quantity (around O.lg) of product, then using the pad of the middle finger and apply the product on inner forearm :
- Step 2 Spread the product simultaneously in order to have a good distribution of the product over same area.
- Step 3 Feel cooling/freshness to evaluation freshness.
- Step 4 See water beads releasing effect (waterbeads size, beads releasing evenness, beads distribution in proper area)
- compositions were prepared as disclosed in example 1.
- the stability of the said emulsions was measured after keeping of tested emulsions 12 weeks at 45°C.
- emulsions have good stability, i.e. viscosity and appearance of bulk kept well but it is observed that the stability of those emulsions decreases with the diminution of the quantity of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone in said emulsions.
- the emulsion of Example 2 has a better stability than the emulsion of Example 3, itself having a better stability than the emulsion of Example 4, which had slightly water release on surface of the emulsion.
- a comparative formulation free from cetyl dimethicone copolyol was also prepared.
- the water droplets obtained with the claimed formulation were larger in size. When broken on the skin, they provide a significant fresh and light feeling for the user.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
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BR112013022152-6A BR112013022152B1 (en) | 2011-04-29 | 2011-04-29 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CARE AND / OR FLUID MAKEUP IN THE FORM OF A SILICON WATER EMULSION AND COSMETIC METHOD FOR SKIN MAKEUP |
CN201180070458.9A CN103491942A (en) | 2011-04-29 | 2011-04-29 | Emulsion w/si foundation |
PCT/CN2011/000753 WO2012145862A1 (en) | 2011-04-29 | 2011-04-29 | Emulsion w/si foundation |
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CN104473786A (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2015-04-01 | 广东洁新生物科技有限公司 | Skin cream and preparation method thereof |
WO2015104176A1 (en) * | 2014-01-10 | 2015-07-16 | Wacker Chemie Ag | Surfactant-free organopolysiloxane invert emulsions |
WO2016191919A1 (en) * | 2015-05-29 | 2016-12-08 | L'oreal | Solid water in silicone composition with water release effect |
WO2020252786A1 (en) * | 2019-06-21 | 2020-12-24 | L'oreal | Solid cosmetic composition in form of water-in-silicone emulsion |
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CN104523456A (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2015-04-22 | 广东洁新生物科技有限公司 | Cosmetic composition and preparation method thereof |
WO2017102507A1 (en) * | 2015-12-17 | 2017-06-22 | L'oreal | Water-in-oil emulsion with moisturizing effect containing hydrophobic coated pigments and an aqueous phase at high content |
CN110300574A (en) * | 2016-12-23 | 2019-10-01 | 莱雅公司 | Composition and method |
FR3088549B1 (en) * | 2018-11-20 | 2021-05-07 | Lvmh Rech | Make-up cosmetic composition with long-lasting perfecting effect |
CN115054548B (en) * | 2022-06-28 | 2023-09-26 | 丽鑫生技化妆品(上海)有限公司 | Transparent lip glaze and preparation method thereof |
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BR112013022152A2 (en) | 2020-11-03 |
BR112013022152B1 (en) | 2021-04-13 |
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