WO2012081133A1

WO2012081133A1 - Make-up cosmetic composition comprising a layered double hydroxide

Info

Publication number: WO2012081133A1
Application number: PCT/JP2010/073477
Authority: WO
Inventors: Takehiko Kasai
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2010-12-17
Filing date: 2010-12-17
Publication date: 2012-06-21

Abstract

The present invention mainly relates to a make-up cosmetic composition comprising more than 0.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one complex including at least one layered double hydroxide including: at least two fundamental layers including at least one metal- double-hydroxide represented by formula (I) : M(II)_1-XM(III)_x(OH)₂ (I) wherein M, identically or differently, preferably differently, represents metal (s) where (II) corresponds to a divalency and (III) corresponds a trivalency; and X represents a number from 0.1 to 0.5; and at least one intermediate layer including at least one salt as a ligand and water for keeping the electroneutrality of said complex, optionally with at least one additional ligand for keeping said electroneutrality. The present invention is useful because the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention can provide a make-up having long lasting or good staying power on keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips.

Description

DESCRIPTION

MAKE-UP COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LAYERED DOUBLE HYDROXIDE

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a make-up cosmetic composition comprising at least one specific complex, in particular layered double hydroxide, for keratin- materials such as the skin and the lips .

BACKGROUND ART

Conventional make-up cosmetic compositions often exhibit short lasting or poor staying power, particularly with regard to color. This short color_. lasting or poor color staying power may be characterized by an alteration in color (color change or fading) , generally as a result of interaction with the sebum and/or perspiration secreted by the skin, in the case of foundation, rouge or eyeshadow, or of interaction with the saliva, in the case of lipsticks. This alteration obliges the user to apply fresh makeup at frequent intervals, which may constitute a loss of time.

Thus, there is a need for a make-up cosmetic product which leads to a deposit, in particular a makeup result, having long lasting" or good staying power on keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a make-up having long lasting or good staying power on keratin materials.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a make-up cosmetic composition comprising more than 0.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one complex including at least one layered double hydroxide

including:

at least two fundamental layers including at least one metal- double-hydroxide represented by formula (I):

wherein

M, identically or differently, preferably differently, represents metal (s), where (II) corresponds to a divalency and (III) corresponds to a trivalency; and X represents a number from Ό.1 to 0.5; and

at least one intermediate layer including at least one salt as a ligand and water for keeping the electroneutrality of said complex, optionally with at least one additional ligand for keeping said electroneutrality.

It is preferable that the divalent metal be an alkaline earth metal (IIA group of the Periodic Table of the Elements) . It is more preferable that the alkaline earth metal be calcium or magnesium, and in particular magnesium.

It is preferable that .the trivalent metal be a metal element in group III, preferably IIIA (under the CAS system), in^" the

Periodic Table of the _^Elements, in particular aluminum.

The salt comprised in the intermediate layer may be a

(meth) acrylate salt, preferably a (meth) acrylate alkaline earth metal salt, and more preferably a (meth) acrylate magnesium salt.

The i-ntermediate layer may comprise at least one additional ligand, preferably an additional salt. The additional^' salt may be selected from the group consisting of carbonates, carboxylates , alcoholates, thiolates, and amino acid salts.

It is preferable that X in the formula (I) represent a number from 0.2 to 0.33.

In the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the complex may be present in amount ranging from 1 to 30wt%, preferably from 5 to 20wt%, and more preferably from 10 to 15wt¾, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is possible that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises no free water.

The make-up cosmetic composition according to the present

invention may comprise at least one powder. It is preferable that the powder be selected from coated fillers.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process

comprising applying- on keratinous material the make-up cosmetic composition as defined above.

The present invention also relates to a use of the complex as defined above for absorbing saturated fatty acid and/or for forming a film. The make-up cosmetic composition arid the cosmetic process according to the present invention can provide a makeup having long lasting or good staying power, in particular with regard to color.

Furthermore, the present invention can use the complex, in particular layered double hydroxide, as defined above to absorb saturated fatty acid and/or form a film.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

Sebum is one of the factors which causes short color lasting or poor color staying on the skin.

Sebum is a natural product from the sebaceous gland which, together with sweat produced by the eccrine or aprocrine glands, constitutes a natural moisturizer for the epidermis, of the skin. It is reported that the sebaceous gland produces squalene, triglycerides, aliphatic waxes, cholesterol waxes and possibly free cholesterol (Stewart, M. E., Semin. Dermatol. 11, 100-105 (1992)). The action of bacterial_^ lipases on the skin converts a variable portion^' of the triglycerides into free fatty acids. It is believed that the short color lasting or poor color staying may be attributed to fatty acids.

Thus, it would be advantageous to remove fatty acids from the surface of keratin materials because this removal would reduce the unfavorable effects by sebum such as short lasting and poor staying power of make-up on that surface.

There are some known substances which can absorb oily ingredients such as fatty acids. However, they remove not only fatty acids but also other oily ingredients such as triacylglycerol,

silicones, and UV filters which are useful for keratin materials. In addition, some conventional fatty acid absorbers such as zinc oxide are suspected to have environmental toxicity.

The inventors performed diligent research to safely remove only fatty acids from the surface of keratin materials, while

maintaining other useful oily ingredients which can function as moisturizers, and found that the use of more than a specific amount of a specific complex, in particular layered double hydroxide, can be effective for selectively removing fatty acids.

According to the present invention, the improvement of the lasting or staying power of a make-up can be achieved by

incorporating, in a make-up cosmetic composition, more than 0.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one specific complex, in particular layered double hydroxide.

Thus, the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized by comprising more than 0.5 wt%., relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least, one complex including at least one layered double hydroxide including at least two fundamental layers including at least one metal- double-hydroxide represented by formula (I):

wherein

M, identically or differently, preferably differently, represents metal (s) where (II) corresponds to a divalency and(III)

corresponds to a trivalency; and

X represents a number from 0.1 to 0.5; and

Hereinafter, the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.

(1) Layered Double Hydroxide

The make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one complex including at least one layered double hydroxide (LDH) including at least two fundamental layers including at least one metal-double-hydroxide represented by the formula (I) :

wherein

, identically or differently, preferably differently, represents metal (s) where (II) corresponds to a divalency and (III)

corresponds to a trivalency; and

X represents a number from 0.1 to 0.5; and

at least one intermediate layer including at least. one salt as a ligand and water for keeping the electroneutrality of said complex, . optionally with at least one additional ligand for keeping said electroneutrality.

By "complex" or "coordination compounds", it means cosmetically acceptable system(s) in which the metallic ions (II) and (III) - and the central atom of said metallic ions are chemically linked to one or more electron . releasing group or ERG (otherwise called electron donating groups or EDG) which releases electrons into a reaction center and as such stabilizes electron deficient

metallic ions (II) or (III)- of the so called "ligand ( s ) " . In other words, a ligand comprises at least one coordinating

group(s) (i.e., groups being able to be coordinated with a

metal) which links the metal (s) satisfying to usual principles of coordinating sphere rule and electroneutrality of the

complex (internal complex or chelating) - see Ullmann' s

Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, « Metal complex dyes », 2005, p. 1-42 and the article named "Organotransition metal chemistry, A mechanical Approach, of Richard F. Meek, published at Academic Press, N.Y. and London, 1974·' and in particular the Chapter I, paragraph C entitled "Ligands".

By ligand, it means more particularly anionic salt(s) that is to say compounds including at least one anionic

group preferably selected from carboxylates , alcoholates,

carbonates, thiolates, aminoacid salts, and their mixtures.

By additional ligand, it means neutral ligand(s) which is/are compound (s) with ERG, preferably chosen among phosphines, amines, aminoacids, and their mixtures, or salts such as previously defined.

The divalent metal may be an alkaline earth metal, such as Mg, Ca, and Sr. Magnesium is preferable.

The trivalent metal may be a metal element in group III,

preferably IIIA (under the CAS system) , in the Periodic Table of the Elements, such as B, Al, and Ga. Aluminum is preferable.

X may be any number between 0.1 and 0.5. Preferably, X is a number between 0.15 to 0.45, and more preferably X is 0.2 to 0.4, and most preferably X is a number between 0.2 to 0.33.

The salt (or ligand) comprised in the intermediate layer may advantageously be a carboxylate such as a salt of a short chain saturated carboxylic acid such as formic acid, acetic acid, and propionic acid; a salt of a short chain unsaturated carboxylic acid such as acrylic acid and methacrylic acid; a salt of a saturated fatty acid such as butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, ' heptanoic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid; and a salt of an unsaturated . fatty acid such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, and eicosapentaenoic acid. It is preferable that the salt is a (meth) acrylate salt, because an acrylate and a -methacrylate have no odor. It is more

preferable that the salt is a (meth) acrylate alkaline earth metal salt. Examples of the alkaline earth metal are as mentioned above. It is most preferable that the' salt is a (meth) acrylate magnesium salt.

A layered double hydroxide (LDH) is a layered compound having anion exchangeability. The crystal structure thereof comprises a plurality of octahedral hydroxide layers (fundamental layers) in which a part of the divalent metal ions is replaced with

trivalent metal ions, and an intermediate layer comprising at least one anion and interlayer water.

In general, the fundamental layers of LDH have a relatively high electric charge density, and therefore, the electrostatic

attraction force between the fundamental layers and the

intermediate layer is strong enough so that a delamination phenomenon which is observed in many clay minerals barely occurs.

However, the LDH used in the present invention can reversibly delaminate in water. Thus, the LDH used in the present invention can be delaminated and dispersed in water to form a dispersion or sol. The resulting dispersion exhibits significantly higher transmittance to visible light than the dispersion of an LDH which is incapable of delamination in water at the same

concentration. This indicates that as a result of delamination, the dispersion comprises delaminated nanometer-sized

microparticles . The aforementioned dispersion or sol returns to the original- LDH by dehydrating and drying.

The above delamination can be demonstrated by the X-ray

diffraction analysis of the LDH when hydrating or swelling with different amounts of water, in which the peak intensity shifts toward the lower angle side with an increase in the amount of water and finally disappears. The shift of peak intensity toward the lower angle side indicates enlarged spacing between adjacent fundamental layers due to incorporation of water molecules, and finally resulting in destruction of the crystalline structure. However, when the LDH in which the crystalline structure is destroyed due to hydration and delamination is completely dried, the dried LDH returns to the original LDH which exhibits the same X-ray. diffraction pattern. Therefore, the delamination is reversible Accordingly, a dense transparent coating film may be formed on a metallic substrate by applying the dispersion or sol on the metallic substrate and then drying. The coating film may be converted to a scratch-resistant hard film by baking at high temperatures .

(Meth) acrylates are polymerizable . For this reason, they can be heat-polymerized using a water-soluble polymerization initiator such as potassium persulfate. By utilizing the aforementioned property, the water-soluble polymerization initiator may be added to an aqueous dispersion or sol of the LDH used in the present invention wherein the salt in the intermediate layer is a

(meth)acrylic acid salt such as magnesium (meth) acrylate, and then the mixture may be heated. Thereby, a polymerization-type product which never returns to the original LDH even by heating can be produced.

The intermediate layer may comprise at least one additional ligand which may preferably be a salt. The additional salt may be selected from the group consisting of alcoholates, carbonates, carboxylates, thiolates, amino acid salts, and their mixtures.

The carbonate may be alkali metal salts such as Li₂C0₃, Na₂C0₃ and K₂C0₃; alkali earth metal salts such as CaC0₃ and MgC0₃; and ammonium salts such as (NH₄)₂C0₃.

The carboxylates may be those as explained above.

The amino acid salts may be salts of aromatic amino acids such as p-aminobenzoic acid and m-aminobenzoic acid. The salts may be alkali metal salts, alkali earth metal salts and ammonium salts.

The LDH used in the present invention may be prepared by, for example, reacting a pyrolyzed product which has been obtained by baking a carbonate-type LDH at a temperature ranging from 400°C to 800°C to remove a major part of the carbonate anions with other anions in water to .produce a reconstituted LDH

( reconstitution method) . In a preferred embodiment, the

pyrolyzed product of the carbonate-type LDH may be reacted with a

(meth) acrylate salt such as magnesium (meth) acrylate in water.

The starting carbonate-type LDH may be represented by the following formula (II) :

wherein M(II) is a^divalent metal as defined above; M(III) is a trivalent metal as defined above; and X is a number as defined above.

The aforementioned starting materials are present in nature as hydrotalcite compounds, and can also be produced in accordance with a known method. In addition, some synthetic hydrotalcite compounds are commercially available from Kyowa Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.

The reaction can be carried out by adding the pyrolyzed product of the carbonate-type LDH to - an aqueous solution of at least one salt such as magnesium (meth) acrylate, and stirring the mixture at room temperature. The ratio of the Mg acrylate or Mg

methacrylate to the pyrolyzed product of the carbonate-type LDH is preferably at least equimolar to the Al content in the pyrolyzed product, calculated as A1₂0₃. The reaction product is usually obtained as a gel. The gel may be separated from the reaction mixture by filtration or centrifugation, and

subsequently dried at a temperature of 100 °C or less and

pulverized: Thereby, the LDH used in the present invention can be obtained.

When the X-ray diffraction pattern of the LDH of the present invention is compared with the X-ray diffraction pattern of the LDH in which the carbonate-type LDH and sodium acetate are used for^" reconstitution, the peak intensity is seen to be shifted toward the lower angle side. This indicates that the spacing between adjacent fundamental layers is increased. In addition, the IR spectrum of the LDH of the present invention has no absorption peak at around 1360 to 1390 cm^-1 derived from the LDH in which sodium acetate is used for reconstitution, and has the characteristic absorption peak at^" around 1390 to 1430 cm^-1. This may indicate that the magnesium salt of (meth) acrylic acid intercalated by reconstitution chemically binds to the

fundamental layer- in a mode which is different from the binding mode in the case of the LDH in which reconstitution is carried out with sodium acetate.

The above layered double hydroxide used in the^' present invention is commercially available. For example, ^'70%

magnesium/aluminum/hydroxide/carbonate (and) 30% magnesium acrylate has been marketed by Tayca as NHT-002 in Japan.

The above layered double hydroxide (LDH) used in the present invention can absorb fatty acids. Not only unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid but also saturated fatty acids such as ^■ isostearic acid can be absorbed by the LDH. used in the present invention . -

Fatty acids generally have bad smells. In addition, some fatty acids, in particular oleic acid, are considered to be

unpreferable factors for conspicuous pores on the skin.

Therefore, the LDHs are effective in not only reducing the

possible causes of short color lasting or poor color staying on- keratin materials such as. the skin, but also reducing the bad smell derived from sebum on keratin materials, and the like. ' ^'

It should be remarkable that the LDH can absorb fatty acids, in particular oleic acid, immediately, while zinc oxide (an example of a conventional fatty acid absorber) absorbs fatty acids in several tens of minutes. Therefore, the LDH can immediately exert its effects based on fatty acid absorbance.

It should also be remarkable that the complex, · in particular LDH, can be used to form a film by absorbing fatty acids. Therefore, the complex can be used as a film forming agent for cosmetic products which can form a film, for example, in-situ on the skin. Furthermore, the film can be water-insoluble or water-repellant . Therefore, the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention can also be resistant to perspiration or saliva, which will provide a make-up with further long lasting and

further better staying power.

The amount of the complex, in particular the layered double hydroxide, in the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention is more than 0.5 wt%, preferably 1 wt% or more, more preferably 5 wt% or more, and further more preferably 10 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

There is no upper limit for the complex in the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention. However, for practical reasons, it may be preferable that the amount of the complex in the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention to be 30 wt% or less, preferably 20 wt% or less, more preferably 15 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Therefore, preferably, the complex can be present in the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 30 wt%, preferably from 5 to 20 wt%, and more preferably from 10 to 15 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition. (2) Other Components

The make-up cosmetic composition according to the present

invention may comprise at least one powder.

There is no limitation on the type of the powder as long as the powder can be used in cosmetics. For example, the powder may be a pulverulent dyestuff, which may be chosen from pigments and nacres, as well as at least one filler.

As used herein, the term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic, particles of any shape, which are insoluble in a physiological medium, and which ^· are intended to color the composition.

As used herein, the term "nacres" should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape, for example, produced in the shell of certain molluscs or alternatively synthesized.

The pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic. Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, such as aluminum powder or copper powder.

Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D^' & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.

The nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated, for example, with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The filler (s) can be inorganic or organic, and can be of

spherical or oblong shape, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like) .

Non-limiting mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite, powders formed of

polyamide (Nylon®) , of poly^-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of polyurethane, powders formed of

tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®) , lauryllysine, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as those of poly (vinylidene chloride )./acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) , or of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads

(Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example) , particles formed of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres, glass^' or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 12_. to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

The above powder may have been, if necessary, coated with at least one hydrophobic agent. The hydrophobic agent can be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl- silanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of glutamate of hydrogenated tallow, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes , perfluoroalkylsilazanes , polyoxides of hexafluoropropylene, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups; aminated acids; N-acyl aminated acids or their salts;

lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate-; esters such as

isostearyl sebacate; surfactants such as disodium stearoyl glutamate; and their mixtures.

The N-acyl aminated acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example,, a 2-ethylhexanoyl , caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, , sodium or potassium salts. The aminated acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, and their derivatives.

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously especially designates an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms . Treated hydrophobic powders (pigments) are especially described in EP-A- 1086683.

According to a preferred mode of realization, the powder (s) can be coated with N-acyl-aminated acids such as lauroyl lysine, surfactants^' such as disodium stearyl glutamate; and silicones such as dimethicone; and/or esters such as isostearyl sebacate.

The powder may preferably be pre-coated with at least one oxide or hydroxide of a metal element such as aluminum, calcium,

magnesium, cerium, silicon, zirconium, titanium, zinc, iron, cobalt, manganese, nickel, and tin.

The make-up cosmetic composition according to the present

invention may, for example, comprise at least one fatty phase, which may comprise at least one oil. This type of fatty phase is also commonly referred to as a binder, and serves, for example, as a dispersing medium for the pulverulent phase.

The oil may be chosen from the oils conventionally used as a binder in compacted powders. For example, the oil may be chosen from:

mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil,' and groundnut oil;

hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffin, squalane, and

petroleum jelly;

fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate,. isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl

myristate, _. and lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate, and diglyceryl triisostearate; silicone oils, such as polymethylsiloxanes ,

polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, with fatty alcohols or with polyoxyalkylenes , fluoro silicones, and perfluoro oils;

higher^' fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid;

higher fatty alcohols, such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol; and

poly methylfluoroalkyl dimethylsiloxanes of formula (HI):

wherein : n is an integer ranging from 5 to 90, for example, from 30 to 80 and, further, for example, from 50 to 80;

m is an integer ranging from 1 to 150, for example, from 1 to 80 and, further, for example, from 1 to 40;

a is an integer ranging from 0 to 5, and

Rf is chosen from perfluoroalkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms .

Examples of compounds of formula (III) include those sold under the names X22-819, X22-820, X22-821 and X22-822 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The make-up cosmetic composition according to the present

invention may comprise the oil in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight and, further, for example, from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The ^"make-up cosmetic composition according to the present

invention may comprise at least one other common cosmetic

ingredient, which may be chosen, for example, from antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents, neutralizers, surfactants, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, and antiwrinkle active agents.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition disclosed herein are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

These additional or optional component (s) may be present in the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight,, preferably 1% to 90% by weight, more preferably 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(3) Make-Up Cosmetic Composition

The. make-up cosmetic composition according to the present

invention can be prepared by mixing the complex, in particular the double layered hydroxide, as well as the other components for the composition, for example, as described above. Any

conventional mixing method or process used in the field of the preparation of cosmetics can be used.

The make-up cosmetic composition according to the present

invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of suspensions, dispersions,, solutions, gels, emulsions, such as oil-in-water (O/W) , water-in-oil (W/O) , and multiple (e.g., W/O/W, polyol/O/W, and 0/ /O) emulsions, creams, foams, sticks,

dispersions of vesicles, for instance, of ionic and/or nonionic lipids, two-phase and multi-phase lotions, sprays, powders, and pastes, or in any other form that is suitable for making up keratin materials, and especially the skin and the lips.

According to one embodiment, the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be, for example, a

foundation base, an . ndercoat, a make-up base coat, a foundation, a face powder, a cheek rouge, a lipstick, a lip cream, an eye shadow, an eyeliner, a loose powder, a concealer, a nail coat, a mascara, a sunscreen and the like.

In another embodiment, the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention is an anhydrous composition. As used herein, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition comprising no more than 2% by weight of free water, for example-, no more than 0.5% of free water, and, for example, no free water, wherein the water is not added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. It is preferable that the make-up

cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises no free water.

Preferably, the make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a compacted powder such as a powder foundation, a pressed powder and a deodorant powder. As used herein, the term "compacted powder" means a powder pressed using a manual or mechanical press. A person skilled in the art has no difficulty in preparing the compacted powder by using well-known methods, such as a so-called dry process and wet process.

In the^' dry process, the components of the cosmetic composition are filled into a container such as a pan. After filling, they are pressed by mechanical force provided by an electric motor, a hydraulic ram or a pneumatic cylinder, etc., in order to compact the components to prepare the compacted powder. Supersonic waves may be added, if necessary, to the components as described in JP- A-H05-70325.

In the wet process, on the other hand, the components of the cosmetic composition are dispersed once. in a large amount of a solvent to make a slurry. Then, the slurry is filled into a container. After the filling, the slurry is pressed by mechanical force while the solvent is removed simultaneously and/or sequentially in order to solidify the slurry.

It is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the appropriate presentation form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the composition.

The make-up cosmetic according to the present invention can be used in a cosmetic process comprising applying on a keratinous material the make-up cosmetic composition as defined above. Here, keratinous material means a substance containing keratin as a main constitutional element. As examples thereof, mention may be made of, for example,, skin, hair, nail, lips, and the like.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1

The following make-up cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight".

Specifically, the oily ingredients in Table 1 were mixed and heated at 70°C to completely dissolve, and cooled to room

temperature to prepare an oily phase.

Separately, the powdery ingredients in Table 1 were added into a main kettle and mixed at 3000 rpm with a powder mixer to prepare a powder phase.

The oil phase was added into the main kettle and mixed at 800 rpm. with a powder mixer.

After the mixing, the mixture was passed through an atomizer to form a powder. The powder was collected and pressed with a press machine to obtain a make-up cosmetic composition in the form of a compacted powder.

[Color Lasting Test 1]

Each of the make-up cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 was applied onto half of a face in an amount of 0.13 mg/cm², i.e., 20 mg per half of the face. The brightness (L^*) of the half face was measured with a Chromasphere immediately after (T(imm)) and 3 hours after (T(3h)) the

application of the make-up cosmetic composition thereto. The difference (AL^*) in color between T(imm) and T(3h) was determined. This test was repeated for 16 panelists, and the average was determined. The results of the tests are shown in Table 2.

[Color Lasting Test 2]

Each of the make-up cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 was applied onto half of a face in an amount of 0.13 mg/cm², i.e., 20 mg per half of the face. The saturation (C^*) of the half face was measured with a Chromasphere immediately after (T(imm)) and 3 hours after (T(3h)) the

application of the make-up cosmetic composition thereto. The difference (AC^*) in color between^' T ( imm) and T(3h) was determined. This test was repeated for 16 panelists, and the average was determined. The results of the tests are shown in Table 3.

[Color Lasting Test 3]

Each of the make-up cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 was applied onto half of a face in an amount of 0.13 mg/cm², i.e., 20 mg per half of the face. The hue (h^*) of the half face was measured with a Chromasphere immediately after (T(imm)) and 3 hours after (T(3h)) the

application of the make-up cosmetic composition thereto. The difference . (Ah^*) in color between T(imm) and T(3h) was determine This test was repeated for 16 panelists, and the average was determined. The results of the tests are shown in Table 4.

[Color Lasting Test 4]

Each of the make-up cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 was applied onto half of a face in an amount of 0.13 mg/cm², i.e., 20 mg per half of the face. The color of the half face was measured with a Chromasphere

immediately after (T(imm)) and 3 hours after (T(3h)) the

application of the make-up cosmetic composition thereto. The difference (ΔΕ) in color between T ( imm) and T(3h) was determined This test was repeated for 16 panelists, and the average was determined. The results of the tests are shown in Table 5.

All the Color- Lasting Tests 1-4 show that the make-up cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1-3, preferably ^'Examples 1-2, and more preferably Example 1, do not substantially change color or appearance on the skin over time, whereas the make-up cosmetic composition according to Comparative Example 1 alters color or appearance over time.

Example 4

1 g of magnesium/aluminum/hydroxide/carbonate (and) magnesium acrylate, marketed as NHT-002 by Tayca in Japan, was mixed with 2 g of oleic acid. A hard organogel film was formed.

Example 5

1 g of magnesium/aluminum/hydroxide/carbonate (and) magnesium acrylate, marketed as NHT-002 by Tayca in Japan, was mixed with 2 g of isostearic acid. A hard organogel film was formed;.

Comparative Examples 2-12

1 g of magnesium/aluminum/hydroxide/carbonate (and) magnesium acrylate, marketed as NHT-002 by Tayca in Japan, was mixed with 2 g of the following oil shown in Table 6.

A hard organogel film was not formed in Comparative Examples 2-12.

Claims

1. A make-up cosmetic composition comprising more than 0.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one complex including at least one layered double hydroxide including:

at least two . fundamental layers including at least one metal-double-hydroxide represented by formula (I) :

wherein

M, identically or differently, preferably differently, represents metal (s), where (II) corresponds to a divalency and (III) corresponds to a trivalency; and

X represents a number from 0.1 to 0.5; and

at least one intermediate layer including at least one salt as a ligand and water for keeping the

electroneutrality of said complex, optionally with at least one additional ligand for keeping said

electroneutrality.

2. The make-up cosmetic composition according to Claim 1,

wherein the divalent metal is an alkaline earth metal.

3. The make-up cosmetic composition according to Claim 2,

wherein the alkaline earth metal is calcium or magnesium, preferably magnesium.

4. The make-up cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the trivalent metal is a metal element in group III, preferably IIIA, in the Periodic Table of the Elements. .

5. The make-up cosmetic composition according to Claim 4,

wherein the metal element is aluminum.

6. The make-up cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the salt is a (meth) acrylate salt; 7. The make-up cosmetic composition according to Claim 6,

wherein the (meth) acrylate salt is a magnesium salt.

8. The make-up cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the intermediate layer comprises the at least one additional ligand.

9. The make-up cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein said ligand is an additional salt.

10. The. make-up cosmetic composition according to claim ^"9,

wherein said additional salt is selected from the group consisting of carbonates, carboxylates , alcoholates, thiolates and amino acid salts.

11. The make-up cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein X represents a number from 0.2 to 0.33.

12. The make-up cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the complex is present in amount of 1 to 30wt%, preferably 5 to 20wt%, and more preferably 10% to 15wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition .

13. - The make-up cosmetic composition according to any one of

Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition comprises no free water .

14. The make-up cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition comprises at least one powder.

15. The make-up cosmetic composition according to Claim 14, wherein the powder is selected from coated fillers.

16. A cosmetic process comprising applying on a keratinous

material the make-up cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15.

17. A use of at least one complex including a layered double hydroxide including

at least two fundamental layers including at least one metal-double-hydroxide represented by formula (I):

wherein

M, identically or differently, preferably differently, represents metal (s), where (II) corresponds to a divalency and (III) corresponds to a trivalency; and X represents a number from 0.1 to 0.5; and

electroneutrality,

bsorbing saturated fatty acid and/or for forming a film.