WO2009060017A1 - Produit de traitement capillaire avec tiliroside et vitamine b - Google Patents

Produit de traitement capillaire avec tiliroside et vitamine b Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009060017A1
WO2009060017A1 PCT/EP2008/065036 EP2008065036W WO2009060017A1 WO 2009060017 A1 WO2009060017 A1 WO 2009060017A1 EP 2008065036 W EP2008065036 W EP 2008065036W WO 2009060017 A1 WO2009060017 A1 WO 2009060017A1
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group
acid
amino
alkyl
formula
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PCT/EP2008/065036
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Marcus Krueger
Dieter Goddinger
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Priority claimed from DE102007053950A external-priority patent/DE102007053950A1/de
Priority claimed from DE200810014368 external-priority patent/DE102008014368A1/de
Application filed by Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa filed Critical Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Publication of WO2009060017A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009060017A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of tiliroside in combination with a representative of the vitamin B complex to improve the freshness of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, to improve the shine of keratin fibers, especially human hair, and to protect the destructuring keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human Hair, by UV radiation and to maintain hair growth.
  • Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.
  • a cosmetic product to have additional, targeted effects on the substrate in addition to having an excellent effect within its main application.
  • a keratin-containing fiber coloring agent should not only provide excellent coloration as a key parameter, but should also ensure that the fibers are easy to handle after dyeing, are well cared for, protected from environmental influences, and strengthened in the fibrous structure.
  • Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to in this application as a "2-in-1 product.” By using a 2-in-1 product, the user saves the annoying multiple applications of a variety of cosmetic products.
  • the permanent, oxidative staining as well as the hair bleaching and fixation in the context of perm usually take place as an oxidative hair treatment in the presence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • the oxidizing agent not only achieves the desired cosmetic effect, but also has a negative effect on the stability, the feel and the appearance of the keratin-containing fiber, in particular the human hair. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases, it even leads to hair breakage.
  • the convenience of the consumer tends to be overcome by the use of a 2-in-1 product for subsequent applications to conceal the above-mentioned undesirable effects.
  • a care complex should be provided, which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agent.
  • a first subject of the present application is therefore a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetic carrier at least one flavonoid according to formula (I)
  • R 1 to R 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a hydroxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy group or an O-hydrogen sulfate group or one of their physiologically tolerable salts and X represents an optionally substituted glucoside radical, and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention for the treatment of keratinic fibers contain at least one specific flavonoid of the formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex.
  • Preferred hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkoxy groups are the hydroxymethoxy group, the 2-hydroxyethoxy group, the 3-hydroxypropoxy group, the 2-hydroxypropoxy group, the 4-hydroxybutoxy group, the 3-hydroxybutoxy group and the 2-hydroxybutoxy group.
  • the 2-hydroxyethoxy group is a most preferred hydroxy (d- to C 4 ) alkoxy group.
  • flavonoids of the formula (I) have proved to be preferred in which at least two of the radicals R 1 to R 6 represent a hydrogen atom, particularly preferred are flavonoids of the formula (I) in which two or three of the radicals R 1 to R 6 represent a hydrogen atom.
  • flavonoids of the formula (I) are preferred in which R 1 is a hydroxy group.
  • flavonoids in which the radicals R 1 to R 6 are at most 3 substituents different from each other, preferably only 2 different substituents.
  • flavonoids of the formula (I) in which R 1 , R 2 and R 5 represent a hydroxy group and R 3 , R 4 and R 6 represent a hydrogen atom. Also particularly preferred are flavonoids of the formula (I) in which R 1 is a hydroxy group, R 2 , R 4 and R 5 are an O-hydrogen sulfate group or one of their physiologically acceptable salts and R 3 and R 6 is a Hydrogen atom stand.
  • flavonoids of the formula (I) in which R 1 is a hydroxy group, R 2 , R 4 and R 5 are a 2-hydroxyethoxy group and R 3 and R 6 are a hydrogen atom.
  • flavonoids of the formula (I) which are a derivative of flavonol, galangin, fisetin, kaempferol, quercetin, morin, robinetine, gossypetin or myricetin which is substituted by the group X.
  • the radical X is a glucoside radical. This is according to the invention not limited to derivatives of glucose, but is generally for ⁇ -glucosidically or ß-glucosidically formed acetals also other sugar components.
  • flavonoids of the formula (I) have proved to be preferred in which X is a radical of the formula (II)
  • group -OY stands for a further monosaccharide residue linked via an ether function or for an organic aromatic acid residue linked via an ester function.
  • Suitable monosaccharides according to the invention are preferably both pentoses and hexoses.
  • Preferred monosaccharide radicals according to the invention are ribose, xylose, arabinose, glucose, mannose, galactose, fructose, sorbose, fucose and rhamnose.
  • the radical -OY it has been found to be particularly preferred for the radical -OY to be a 6-deoxy sugar residue linked via an ether function, in particular a fucose residue or a rhamnose residue, very particularly a rhamnose residue.
  • the group -O-Y is an organic aromatic acid moiety linked via an ester function.
  • Preferred, optionally substituted cinnamic acid radicals according to the invention are, for example, the o-cumaric acid radical, the p-cumaric acid radical and their substituted derivatives; the p-cumaric acid residue is a most preferred residue of an organic aromatic acid of the invention.
  • Tiliroside [(2R, 3R, 4S, 5R6S) -6- [5,7-dihydroxy-2- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -4-oxo-chromen-3-yl] oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxy -oxan-2-yl] methyl (E) -3- (4-hydroxyphenyl) prop-2-enoate; INCI name: tiliroside, CAS No. 20316-62-5),
  • Rutin sulfate (3,3 ', 4,4,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, INCI name Disodium Rutinyl Disulfate),
  • Troxerutin (2- [3,4-bis (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] -5-hydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -3- [3,4,5-trihydroxy-6 - [(3, 4, 5-trihydroxy-6-methyl-oxan-2-yl) oxymethyl] oxan-2-yl] oxy-chromen-4-one; INCI name: troxerutin, CAS No. 96304-71-1 ) and
  • Isoquercetin (2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -5,7-dihydroxy-3 [(2S, 3R4S, 5R6R) -3,4,5-trihydroxy-6- (hydroxymethyl) oxan-2-yl] oxy- chromen-4-one; CAS No. 482-35-9).
  • a flavonoid which is very particularly preferred according to the invention is tiliroside.
  • tiliroside can be obtained, for example, from the plants of the genus Althaea, Aristolochia, Helianthemum, Lindera, Magnolia, Platanus, Potentilla, Quercus, Rosa, Sida, Sorbus and / or Tilia, the following species being preferred Althaea officinalis, Althaea rosea, Aristolochia heterophylla, Helianthemum glomeratum, Lindera megaphyfla, Magnolia salicifolia, Platanus acerifolia, Platanus occidentalis, Potentilla anserina, Quercus pubescens, Quercus suber, Quercus laurifolia, Quercus ilex, Quercus imbricaria, Quercus virginiana, Rosa pomifera, Sida rhombifolia, Sida poeppigiana, Sida cordifolia, Sida glaziovii
  • tiliroside can be obtained from plants of the family of Sterculiaceae.
  • Preferred are the Waitheria species, preferably Waitheria americana, Waitheria douradinha, Waitheria panicucata, Waitheria indica, Waitheria viscosissima, Waitheria antennalis, Waitheria ovata, Waitheria tornentosa, Waitheria madagascariensis, Waitheria glornerata, Waitheria bicolor, Waitheria fryxellii, Waitheria tundeltiana, Waitheria tridentata, Waitheria operculata, Waitheria bracteosa, Waitheria douradinha, Waitheria macropoda, Waitheria caroliniana, Waitheria arenicola, Waitheria melochia, Waitheria acurninata, Waitheria theobroma, Waitheria indivia or Waitheria taiwana called.
  • Tiliroside is sold commercially as cosmetic active ingredient, for example, under the trade designation RonaCare Tiliroside ® by the company. Merck KGaA. It is a mixture consisting of about 5 wt .-% pure tiliroside with about 95 wt .-% sorbitol.
  • the flavonoids of the formula (I) according to the invention are in the cosmetic compositions preferably in an amount of 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, and most preferably from 0.005 to 1, 0 wt .-%, each based on the pure active ingredient and on the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
  • compositions of the present invention necessarily contain at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex.
  • the vitamin B complex comprises the vitamins of the B group: thiamine (vitamin B 1 ), riboflavin (vitamin B 2 , vitamin G), niacin (vitamin B 3 ), pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 ), Vitamin B 6 , biotin (vitamin B 7 , vitamin H), folic acid (vitamin B 9 , vitamin B c or vitamin M) and vitamin B 12 , their derivatives and physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the term “derivative” is understood to mean an easily accessible, structurally closely related derivative of the starting substance, which can usually be represented by only one reaction step. “Derivatization” can be carried out enzymatically, but as a rule by suitable synthetic transformations , usually on a functional group. Exemplary derivatives are the reaction products by derivatization of hydroxy, thiol, amino, carbonyl, carboxyl or carboxamide groups. Preferred methods of derivatization are oxidation, reduction, alkylation, acylation, esterification, saponification, (de) protonation (salification with physiologically acceptable acids or bases) and peptide formation.
  • Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the active ingredient of the vitamin B complex is selected from the group consisting of vitamin B 1 , viatmin B 2 , vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 , vitamin B 6 , vitamin B 7 , Vitamin B 9 and Vitamin B 12 , their derivatives.
  • the cosmetic compositions contain, in addition to the bioflavonoid according to formula (I) as active ingredient from the vitamin B complex, vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 and / or their derivatives, in particular jeodch pantolactone, pantothenic acid and derivatives thereof.
  • the cosmetic agent contains a combination of a bioflavonoid according to formula (I) and pantothenic acid and / or at least one of its derivatives.
  • Pantothenic acid also (R) - (+) - N- (2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyryl) - ⁇ -alanine, D-pantoyl- ⁇ -alanine, Vitamin B 3 , Vitamin B 5
  • Pantothenic acid also (R) - (+) - N- (2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyryl) - ⁇ -alanine, D-pantoyl- ⁇ -alanine, Vitamin B 3 , Vitamin B 5
  • CoA coenzyme A
  • Pantothenic acid in the liver, muscle meat, fish, milk, whole-grain products and legumes is found in particularly high concentrations.
  • Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
  • pantothenic acid derivatives in the context of the present invention are panthenol and pantethein.
  • the cosmetic composition contains a combination of a bioflavonoid according to formula (I) and pantolactone ((R) -dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone) and / or at least one of its derivatives according to formula (I) contains, in which the radicals R 1 to R 6 are independently of one another for
  • R 11 as a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
  • R and R are each independently hydrogen, a methyl, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
  • R 14 is hydrogen, a methyl, a - C 2 -C 4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 - saturated one - or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
  • R 15 and R 16 each represent hydrogen, methyl, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or -or- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
  • R 16 is a methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or -or- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
  • R 17 is a methyl, a -C 2 -C 30 -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 30 -saturated or one or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 30 -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical.
  • Very particularly preferred agents in the context of the present invention comprise a combination of a bioflavonoid according to formula (I) and pantolactone.
  • the cosmetic composition is finally characterized in that it contains a combination of tiliroside and pantolactone in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the cosmetic compositions are used for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.
  • keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • means according to the invention are preferably those means which the consumer, in particular the man applies anyway.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.
  • the lubricant can be significantly improved by the application of the active ingredient combination of at least one flavonoid of the formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex. This manifests itself in an improvement in the combability, feel or shape of keratinous fibers, especially human hair.
  • combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.
  • the combing work or the force used during the combing process of a fiber collective.
  • the measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.
  • the grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.
  • Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
  • keratinous fibers By maintaining the natural growth of keratinous fibers, it is understood that the effects on natural hair growth are compensated by hair cosmetic treatments as outlined above, in particular by oxidative hair treatments, and no or at least slight effects on the natural growth of the keratinic fibers in terms of thickness growth, the growth in length and / or in relation to the hair fullness are present.
  • the growth in thickness, the growth in length or the hair fullness can be determined both subjectively and objectively or in different test models.
  • an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.
  • the active ingredient combination of at least one flavonoid of the formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex is preferably used immediately before, during or after the oxidative hair treatment in the form of an agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of active substances according to the invention.
  • an application directly followed by the oxidative hair treatment wherein the active ingredient combination containing agent according to the invention previously rinsed from the hair or preferably was left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet.
  • the term "oxidative hair treatment” is understood as meaning an application which either directly follows the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the active substance combination comprises at least one flavonoid of the formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex the rinsing of the hair dye or the bleaching agent or the waving agent is applied to the preferably still wet, towel-dried hair, or applied to the dry or wet hair only after several hours or days.
  • the agent according to the invention can be rinsed out again after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes or remain completely on the hair.
  • the effect of the agent according to the invention unfolds even during the oxidative hair treatment and surprisingly persists even after intensive washing out of the composition according to the invention.
  • both agents can be mixed together, or applied successively without intermediate rinsing step on the hair.
  • the oxidative cosmetic agent used according to the invention therefore additionally contains an active ingredient combination of at least one flavonoid of the formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex.
  • the active ingredient combination according to the invention comprising at least one flavonoid of the formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex is preferably used in a cosmetic carrier.
  • a cosmetic carrier preferably used in a cosmetic carrier.
  • cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as For example, shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations that are particularly suitable for use on the hair.
  • the cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 6 -alkoHoI, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n -Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand.
  • the compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • compositions according to the invention also contain a further hair-care active ingredient.
  • This further active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of non-surface-active betaines, ubiquinones, ectoine, their derivatives and physiologically acceptable salts.
  • this further active ingredient is selected from the group formed from L-carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, taurine and their derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
  • betaines are also particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention.
  • Betaines are not to be understood Betaine with surface-active properties, as described in the chapter on surfactants or emulsifiers.
  • betaine for the purposes of the present invention are meant compounds which 3 ⁇ +) as well as a grouping -CR simultaneously contain both a group -NR 2 COO '' ', as well as sulfobetaines of similar structure, which includes a grouping -NR 3 + and a grouping -SO 3 ' " ' exhibit.
  • the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which correspond to the formula (AI).
  • R1, R2, and R3 stand independently for:
  • R4, R5, R6, R7, R8 and R9 independently of one another represent:
  • a C 2 -C 8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical wherein R 10 is hydrogen, -CH 3 or a C 2 -C 30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical and R 11 is -CH 3 or a C 2 -C 30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, x, y and z are each independently an integer from 0 to 12 with the proviso that at least one of the parameters x, y or z of 0 is different and Y- is COO () or SO 3 () in combination with a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • betaines are also to be understood as meaning those substances in which the mentioned characteristic groups are present only in the case of the dissolved substance and within certain pH ranges of the solution.
  • the mixed salts of betaines according to the invention can be used according to the invention.
  • the inorganic mixed salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, hydroiodides, sulfates, sulfites, hydrogen sulfates, hydrogen sulfites, carbonates and bicarbonates, mono-, di-, triphosphates or mixtures the phosphates and mixtures of these mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used.
  • the mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used with organic carboxylic acids.
  • Suitable examples of such acids are, for example, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid , Isocrotonic, elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, 4-hydroxybenzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, salicylic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4 '4'-Dicyano-6,6'
  • organic polyfunctional carboxylic acids which, in addition to at least one carboxy group, additionally have at least one hydroxyl group and / or at least one amino group.
  • organic carboxylic acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, etc., which are attributable to the edible acids.
  • amino acids such as histidine, arginine, lysine, citrulline, etc. are among the polyfunctional organic acids which can be used as mixed salts with the active compounds (I) according to the invention.
  • the mixing ratio of the mixed salts according to the invention can be between 1: 50 and 50: 1, preferably between 10: 1 and 1:10, and very particularly preferably based on the respective molar masses of the individual components (betaine of the formula (I) / mixed salt-forming substance) between 3: 1 and 1: 3.
  • betains of the formula (AI) which are particularly suitable according to the invention are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-octanoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3 O-palmitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalaine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (N ', N', N'-trimethyl-L-histidinium) betain), ergothionein (thionein, 2-mercapto-N ', N', N'-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate,
  • compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (A-I) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (A-I).
  • isomers such as diastereomers, enantiomers, isocyanate trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates can be used according to the invention.
  • the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.
  • the cosmetic agent in addition to the combination of a flavonoid of the formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex, also contains taurine and / or at least one of its derivatives.
  • taurine is doubly occupied in the literature with 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and (11S) -1-oxoeudesm-4-ene-12,6 ⁇ -olide.
  • taurine 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid.
  • 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and its derivatives as well as some other explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurines are discussed.
  • the compound (11S) -1-oxoeudesm-4-ene-12,6 ⁇ -olide has been named for purposes of clear demarcation and is not understood by the term taurine in the present invention.
  • Taurine derivatives are understood as meaning, in particular, taurines which may be substituted on the amino group.
  • at least one of the hydrogen atoms, two or even all three of the possible hydrogen atoms of the taurine inner salt may independently be substituted by at least one C 1 to C 6 alkyl group or one C 2 to C 6 hydroxyalkyl group.
  • the C1 to C6 alkyl groups may be saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched.
  • Preferred alkyl substituents are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl or n-hexyl.
  • Preferred taurine derivatives are / V-monomethyltaurine and ⁇ /, ⁇ / -dimethyltaurine.
  • taurine derivatives also include taurines, which naturally occur as metabolites in plant and / or animal and / or marine organisms. These include, for example, although not preferred, degradation products of cysteine, especially cysteine sulfinic acid.
  • taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.
  • taurine is used as the active ingredient in the composition according to the invention.
  • compositions of the invention contain biochinones which act as coenzymes.
  • suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
  • the cosmetic composition contains a combination of coenzyme Q-10 (ubiquinone-50) and / or at least one of its derivatives and a flavonoid of the formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex ,
  • the cosmetic composition contains a combination of ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and / or at least one of its derivatives and a flavonoid of Formula (I) and at least one further active ingredient from the vitamin B complex.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, taurine and / or derivatives thereof in the form of natural product extracts obtained from natural products containing the corresponding active ingredients or their derivatives.
  • the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one conditioning agent.
  • Preferred conditioning agents are selected from the Gurppe, which is formed from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers and silicones.
  • Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the active ingredient complex according to the invention in that, like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, they contribute to a significantly improved cosmetic appearance of the skin.
  • the cationic charge ensures a good bond to the rather negatively charged surfaces, especially of stressed skin.
  • more hydrophobically structured active ingredients can accumulate.
  • an overall increased deposition of care substances on the surface of the skin is effected.
  • the skin feeling is described as pleasantly soft to velvety soft.
  • Cationic surfactants are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR1 R2R3R4) + with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Such cationic ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (Tkat) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg.
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • cationic compounds with behenyl radicals in particular those with the name behentrimonium chloride or bromide, can be used with particular preference (Docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide) known substances.
  • Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ® KDMP (Clariant).
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the agents of the invention may comprise at least one quaternary imidazoline compound, i. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring.
  • the formula (Tkat-1) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of formula (E5-V) for R each contain the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms and very particularly preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms.
  • a very particularly preferred compound of the formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is known, for example, under the name Quaternium-91.
  • Tkat-1) methosulfate is shown as a counterion.
  • the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else phosphates.
  • the imidazolines of the formula (Tkat-1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 contain up to 7.5 wt .-%. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5 wt .-% each based on the total composition of the respective agent.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • a according to the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, they Of course, they can also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Lanoquat ® DES 50 or Empigen CSC.
  • Glucquat ® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride”.
  • cationic surfactants of the present invention are also understood to mean cationic compounds of the following general structure:
  • R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain
  • X is - O - or - NR 5 -
  • R 1 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, in which case substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution,
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 each independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group
  • radicals according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl,
  • Pentyl iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, hexyl, iso-hexyl, hydroxyalkyl, dihydroxyalkyl, hydroxyethyl,
  • R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical which may also be substituted by a hydroxyl group, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, hexyl, iso-hexyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl, trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl, dihydroxyethyl and
  • a " represents a halide such as fluoride, chloride or bromide, an alkyl sulfate such as a methosulfate or ethosulfate, a phosphate, a citrate, tartrate, maleate or fumarate
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the recognition that mixtures of at least two cationic surfactants can be used.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably selected from at least two different structural classes of cationic surfactants.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • mild cationic surfactants include in particular alkylamidoamines, quaternized amidoamines, esterquats, cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat-2) and cationic surfactants having at least one behenyl radical in the molecule.
  • Very particularly cationic polymers are used as further ingredients in the compositions according to the invention. Polymers are used in cosmetic compositions for a variety of reasons.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called “temporary cationic" polymers, which usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically.
  • the cationic polymers according to the invention can be both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or scavenging polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties.
  • the suitable cationic polymers are preferably fixing and / or conditioning polymers.
  • polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic or amphoteric charged. These two groups of polymers share a potentially cationic charge.
  • Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers can therefore be characterized by their cationic charge density.
  • the polymers of the invention are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g.
  • a charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred. Particularly preferred is a charge density of at least equal to 3meq / g to 7 meq / g.
  • the molecular weight of the particular polymer is understood to mean the molecular weight which the manufacturer indicates in the corresponding data sheets by its method.
  • a molecular weight of at least 50,000 g / u has proven to be suitable according to the invention.
  • Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 1,000,000 g / u are particularly suitable.
  • Suitable polymers have a value of greater than 100,000 for the product of cationic charge density and molecular weight. Particularly suitable are polymers which have a value of at least 200,000 for this product. Especially suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value greater than 250,000. Most suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000. Preference is given to those polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or alcohol in order to completely dissolve in the agent according to the invention.
  • the cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium,
  • Dialkyl diallyl ammonium and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Particularly preferred cationic polymers are homopolymers of the general formula (P1),
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or
  • n 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • X is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula and nonionic monomer units. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.
  • Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers which are suitable according to the invention also contain nonionic monomer units in addition to a permanently or temporarily cationic monomer.
  • Preferred non-ionic monomer units acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid alkyl esters and methacrylic acid d- CI_ 4 4 -alkyl.
  • the acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can, as in the case of the homopolymers described above, crosslinked be.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group.
  • Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups may be side or terminal.
  • the N-containing silicone cationic polymer of the present invention may preferably be selected from the group consisting of siloxane polymers having at least one amino group, siloxane polymers having at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer.
  • Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal aminoalkyl groups.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of an aminosiloxane according to the following general formula (P-2),
  • R OH or CH 3
  • X alkylene group having 1 to 4 C atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl
  • A, B and C copolymer units which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks.
  • Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, which is a cationic emulsion comprising amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, which is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, which is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, Talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 or 1401 based on trimethylsilylamodine ethoxyl, octoxynol-40, isololeth-6 and glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 microemulsion (26%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8177 microemulsion (12%)
  • the molecular weight of the aminosilicones is preferably between 500 and 100,000.
  • the amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 01 to 0.5.
  • the aminosilicone cationic polymer of the invention is used in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% used.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (P-3)
  • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
  • R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
  • X ' is a common counter anion and is preferably chloride.
  • a cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees.
  • Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol or Quatrisoft ® LM 200.
  • Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L and 200.
  • the commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company.
  • Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially.
  • cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®.
  • a preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.
  • hydrocolloids of the chitosan type are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight, containing the - idealized - monomer unit:
  • chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions.
  • the positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore considered to be useful in cosmetic hair and body care products Filmtruckner used.
  • the chitosans are also quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, optionally also in microcrystalline form into consideration.
  • the insert can also be in the form of aqueous gels having a solids content in the range of 1 to 5 wt .-%.
  • chitosans For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as inexpensive raw materials in large quantities.
  • the chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • particularly low-ash cationic biopolymers are used which are obtained by reacting (a) treating fresh crustacean shells with dilute aqueous mineral acid,
  • the chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins.
  • the molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol.
  • a low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable.
  • the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol.
  • the degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 to 99%.
  • the chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form.
  • the degree of neutralization of the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups.
  • a neutralizing agent it is possible in principle to use all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and the like, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa OiI & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%.
  • a preferred chitosan is carboxylate Chitosoniumpyrrolidon- which is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
  • the contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%.
  • Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan.
  • Other chitosan derivatives are among the Trade names Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available commercially.
  • cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • temporary cationic polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropy
  • Preferred cationic polymers are commercially available and, for example, quaternized CeIIu lose-derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade name Cosmedia guar ® and Jaguar ® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • Merquat ® 100 Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)
  • Merquat ® 550 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer
  • Merquat ® Plus 3300 Terpolymer of Dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® HS 100, Gaffix ® VC 713, Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially, of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27, having quaternary Nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • the cationic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • a last group of substances which can additionally be used as conditioning agents in the compositions according to the invention are silicone oils (in the following also silicones).
  • Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. But also the softness and the elasticity of the film, which is formed by film-forming polymers on the hair for the purpose of strengthening and styling, is positively influenced by silicones.
  • silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds.
  • the silicones are selected from at least one member of the organosilicon compounds formed from: (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
  • the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil):
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil .1):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CHz) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 mPa s measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 mPa s, very special preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 Pa.s. The most preferred range is between 40,000 and 80,000 mPa-s.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)
  • x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
  • silicone of formula (Sil) preferably the compounds:
  • mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the preferred compositions of the invention.
  • Preferred silicones according to invention have at 2O 0 C to viscosities of 0.2 to 2 mmV 1, wherein silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mmV 1 are particularly preferred.
  • the dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconone based on the composition.
  • the dimethicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the amount of dimethicone up to 40 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
  • Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, in which
  • R 1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms,
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25; and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000 and most preferred is from about 150 to about 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mer
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, - CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, - OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CHz) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for said Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1.
  • Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is -N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • ⁇ assumes values in the range of 0 to 2
  • b takes values in the range of 2 to 3
  • a + b is less than or equal to 3
  • c is a number in the range of 1 to 3.
  • the molar ratio of R 3 Q b SiO (4 a - b.) / 2 units to the R 0 SiO (4 _ c y 2 units in the formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: 2 to about 1: 65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • the various variables Substituents in the above Formula may be different for the various silicone components that are present in the silicone blend.
  • Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3)
  • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -C / H 2 C / H2C / H3, -L) ⁇ C / H (C / H3) 2) ⁇ C / H (L / H3) 2 J-L) ⁇ C / H2C / ⁇ 2C / ⁇ 2C / ⁇ 3, -C / H2C / H2C / ⁇ 2C / ⁇ 3, -O-CH 2 CH (CH 3) 2, -CH 2 CH (CHs) 2, -0-CH (CH 3) CH 2 CH 3, -CH (CH 3) CH 2 CH 3, -OC (CH 3 ) 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 ; a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b is a number between 0
  • R ' is a monovalent radical selected from -QN (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R") 2 -QN (R 11 J 2 -QN + (R ") 3 A- -QN + H (R ") 2 a" QN + H 2 (R ") a" -QN (R ”) - CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R" H 2 a ", each Q is a chemical bond, -CH 2 - , -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C (CH 2 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C (CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 2 -, R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the Ci.
  • 20 -alkyl radicals preferably CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CHs) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 J 3 , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • Cationic silicone oils such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 are suitable according to the invention -71 13 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt;. diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a):
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).
  • compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)
  • R is -OH, (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C 1 to C 2 o) -
  • R ' is -OH, a (C 1 to C 2 o) alkoxy group or a -CH 3 group and m, n and o are numbers whose sum (m + n + o) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (m + o) preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).
  • Amodimethicone or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).
  • amino-functional silicones preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g is.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight. % and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g ,
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • the amodimethicones it is also possible for the amodimethicones to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the composition it may be appropriate for the composition to be briefly homogenized by shaking immediately before use becomes.
  • the amount of amodimethicone can be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:
  • A is one of the groups: -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH 2 -, -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -,
  • a ' means: -CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -C (O) CH 2 -,
  • E represents a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas:
  • Bind ester groups and / or at least one terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula -AER 2 , wherein
  • R 2 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) and having
  • -OH can be substituted and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic
  • S represents -Si (R 1) 2 -O [-Si (R 1) 2 -O] n-Si (R 1) 2 and wherein R 1 is C- ⁇ -C 22 - Alkyl, C 1 -C 22 fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, and when there are several S groups in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different, where K is a bivalent or trivalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 -
  • Hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N + (R 3 ) - and -N + (R 1 ) (R 3 ) - interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above, or optionally a bond to a divalent radical R 3 , and wherein R 3 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -
  • a hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or -AER 2 , wherein A, E and R is as defined above in which the radicals K can be identical or different from one another, and in the case that K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence takes place via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group,
  • the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they have the above-defined components a1) to a4).
  • the polysiloxane compounds are formed by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) to each other.
  • Component a4) serves to neutralize the positive charges resulting from component a2).
  • the polysiloxane compounds of the invention may be oligomers or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds also include the case described below wherein the polysiloxane compound has only one repeating unit.
  • Polysiloxane compounds of the invention are naturally formed by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.
  • the terminal atom groups result from the terminal atom groups of the starting materials used. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art.
  • the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3).
  • the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention in particular their formed from the repeat units linear polymeric backbone, by alternating juxtaposition of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3) are constructed. That is, the optionally present in the structural components beyond free valences (as may occur in trivalent radicals as component a2) or trivalent radicals K) are preferably not used to build polymeric side chains or polymeric branches.
  • polyammoniumpolysiloxanes are conveniently prepared by one of the methods described in the publication WO 02/10257.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ® from GE Bayer Silicones.
  • the products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above are used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, completely more preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, each based on the total composition.
  • cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)
  • x is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.
  • the silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units.
  • these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains.
  • Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.
  • silicone-in-water emulsions which can be used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes, as disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,998,537 and EP 0 874 017 A1.
  • this method of preparation comprises the emulsifying mixture of components, one of which contains at least one polysiloxane, the other of which contains at least one organosilicone material which reacts with the polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction, with at least one metal ion-containing catalyst for the chain extension reaction, at least one surfactant and water present are.
  • the chain extension reaction may also include the reaction of an Si-OH group (e.g., a hydroxy-terminated polysiloxane) with an alkoxy group (e.g., alkoxysilanes, silicates, or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing catalyst to form polysiloxanes.
  • the polysiloxanes used in the chain extension reaction comprise a substantially linear polymer of the following structure: R-Si (R 2 HO-Si (R 2 Hn-O-SiR 3
  • each R independently represents a hydrocarbon radical having up to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as an alkyl group (for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (for example, phenyl), or group required for the chain extension reaction ("reactive group", for example Si-bonded H atoms, aliphatically unsaturated groups such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy, such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy-alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), with the proviso that on average one to two reactive groups are present per polymer, n is a positive number> 1.
  • n is numbers describing polysiloxanes having viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm 2 / s, more preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm 2 / s.
  • the polysiloxanes may be branched to a low degree (for example, ⁇ 2 mol% of the siloxane units), but the polymers are substantially linear, more preferably fully linear.
  • the substituents R may in turn be substituted, for example with N-containing groups (for example amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc.
  • N-containing groups for example amino groups
  • epoxy groups for example amino groups
  • S-containing groups for example amino groups
  • Si-containing groups for example O-containing groups
  • O-containing groups etc.
  • at least 80% of the radicals R are alkyl radicals, especially preferably methyl groups.
  • the organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in the chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane or a molecule that acts as a chain extender.
  • the organosilicone material is a polysiloxane, it has the above-mentioned general structure. In these cases, one polysiloxane in the reaction has (at least) one reactive group, and a second polysiloxane has (at least) a second reactive group that reacts with the first.
  • the organosilicone material comprises a chain-extending agent
  • it may be a material such as a silane, a siloxane (e.g. disiloxane or trisiloxane) or a silazane.
  • a composition which comprises a polysiloxane according to the above-described general structure which comprises at least one Si-OH group has been chain-extended by reacting with an alkoxysilane (for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin or titanium-containing catalysts.
  • an alkoxysilane for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane
  • the metal-containing catalysts in the chain extension reaction are usually specific for a particular reaction.
  • Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc.
  • a polysiloxane having at least one aliphatically unsaturated group, preferably an end group is reacted with an organosilicone material
  • a hydrosilylation catalyst which is a siloxane or polysiloxane having at least one (preferably terminal) Si-H group.
  • the polysiloxane has at least one aliphatically unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula given above in which R and n are as defined above, with an average of between 1 and 2 groups R having one aliphatically unsaturated group per polymer.
  • the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group preferably has the above-mentioned structure, wherein R and n are as defined above and wherein, on average, between 1 and 2 groups R is hydrogen and n is 0 or a positive integer.
  • This material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as a siloxane (for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane).
  • a siloxane for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane
  • the polysiloxane having at least one aliphatic unsaturated group and the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group react in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst.
  • a hydrosilylation catalyst include, for example, platinum and rhodium-containing materials.
  • the catalysts may take any known form, for example platinum or rhodium coated on support materials (such as silica gel or activated carbon) or other suitable compounds such as platinum chloride, salts of platinum or chloroplatinic acids.
  • Chloroplatinic acid either as a commercially available hexahydrate or in anhydrous form is a preferred catalyst because of good dispersibility in organosilicone systems and low color change.
  • a polysiloxane having at least one Si-OH group, preferably an end group is reacted with an organosilicone material having at least one alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane at least one Si-OR group or an alkoxysilane having at least two alkoxy groups.
  • the catalyst used is again a metal-containing catalyst.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • examples include stannous octoate, dibutyltin dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, dimethyltin dineodecanoate, dibutyltin dimethoxide, isobutyltin triceroate, dimethyltin dibutyrate, dimethyltin dineo
  • Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)
  • R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the C ⁇ o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
  • the silicones are preferably water-soluble. According to preferred means of the embodiment with a silicone are characterized in that the silicone is water-soluble.
  • Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7).
  • Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.
  • Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
  • Alkoxy group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group the radicals R 'and R "are alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms
  • x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30
  • y is a integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10
  • a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.
  • dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow).
  • Dimethicone copolyols particularly preferred according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 (Dow).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicone copolyols can already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art become.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes.
  • both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
  • the dimethicone copolyols (S3) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-% of Dimethiconcopolyol based on the composition.
  • the dimethicone copolyols it is also possible for the dimethicone copolyols to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the amount of Dimethiconcopolyol up to 40 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. Dimethiconols form a further group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethiconols of the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CHz) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 mPa s measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 imPa-s, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 in Pa-s. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 mPa-s.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention 0.01 to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns ,
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols can be very particularly preferred.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all
  • the dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • the dimethiconols form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term.
  • the amount of dimethiconol may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • this mixture is present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of silicone mixture based on the composition.
  • the mixture of silicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the amount of silicone mixture may be up to 40 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • the conditioning agent is a conditioning silicone having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 120,000 mPa.s, most preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa.s.
  • the conditioning silicone is particularly preferably selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.
  • the agent according to the invention may be preferred according to the invention in the context of a color change of the hair.
  • the oxidative color change is preferred because the care effect of the compositions of the invention is excellent even in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention therefore contain at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agents according to the invention are different from atmospheric oxygen and have such an oxidation potential that makes it possible to link disulphide bridges within or between the proteins of the hair keratin, oxidatively lighten the natural color pigment melanin and / or to oxidize a developer-type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds, such as, for example, sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate,
  • n H 2 O 2 a positive integer greater than 0
  • urea peroxide urea peroxide and melamine peroxide in question.
  • the oxidative cosmetic agent can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the substrate, such as, for example, oxidation dye precursors or melanin.
  • a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the substrate such as, for example, oxidation dye precursors or melanin.
  • Such catalysts are e.g. Metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.
  • Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ . Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of a color can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.
  • Suitable enzymes include peroxidases, which can significantly enhance the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide.
  • Such enzymes are suitable according to the invention, which generate with the aid of atmospheric oxygen in situ small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors in this way.
  • Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, eg
  • Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts
  • the oxidizing agent is preferably contained in an amount of from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent.
  • the cosmetic agents additionally preferably contain at least one color-modifying component. According to task u.a. Improves the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences.
  • the color-changing component is again preferably selected
  • the cosmetic agent therefore additionally contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer component type.
  • developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with another, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used ,
  • p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)
  • G 1 is a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -
  • Monohydroxyalkylrest a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl, a (Ci to C 4 ) alkoxy (Ci to C 4 ) -alkyl, a 4'-Aminophenylrest or a (Ci to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4'-aminophenyl radical;
  • G 2 is a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -
  • Alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical a (C 2 to C 4) polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4) alkoxy (C- ⁇ -C 4) a (C 1 to C 4) alkyl radical, the nitrogen-containing having a Group is substituted;
  • G 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or
  • Fluorine atom a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to
  • G 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4) alkyl radical or a (C 1 to C 4) alkoxy (C- ⁇ -C 4) alkyl, or when G 3 and G 4 are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging ⁇ , ⁇ -alkylenedioxy group such as an ethylenedioxy group.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of formula (E1) are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine , 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine , N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N Bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline,
  • p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (ß-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ , ß-dihydroxyethyl) - p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazole 1-yl) propyl] amine, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • binuclear developer components which can be used in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds corresponding to the following formula (E2) and their physiologically tolerated salts:
  • Z 1 and Z 2 independently of one another represent a hydroxyl or NH 2 radical which is optionally substituted by a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, by a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridging Y or which is optionally part of a bridging ring system
  • the bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring, which is one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen , Sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be interrupted or terminated and may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or (C 1 to C 8 ) alkoxy, or a direct bond
  • the bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring, which is one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or
  • G 5 and G 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl radical, a ( C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical or a direct compound for bridging Y,
  • G 7 , G 8 , G 9 , G 10 , G 11 and G 12 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl radical, with the proviso that the compounds of the Formula (E2) contain only one bridge Y per molecule.
  • Preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are in particular selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) - tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N , N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) -ethylenediamine
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are selected from N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol , Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) ethane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)
  • G 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) Alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkylamino radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl- (C 1 -C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (DK (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl] amino) - (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl radical
  • G 14 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (
  • Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxyethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxynethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxynethylphenol, 4-Amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-anninonnethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4- Amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) -phenol
  • Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-anninonnethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -phenol and 4-amino 2- (diethylanninonnethyl) -phenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-naphthylphenol, 2-amino-5-naphthylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • heterocyclic developer components such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E4) or their physiologically tolerated salts,
  • G 17 , G 18 and G 19 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy group or an amino group and
  • G is a hydroxy group or a group -NG G wherein G and G are independently hydrogen, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl group, provided that a maximum of two of the groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 is a hydroxy group and at most two of the radicals G 17 , G 18 and G 19 are a hydrogen atom. It is again preferred if, according to formula (E4), at least two groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G is a group -NG G and at most two groups of G, G, G and G are a hydroxy group.
  • Particularly preferred pyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetrahydaminopyrinnidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrinnidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrinnidine, 2-dimethylamino-4 , 5,6-trianninopyrinnidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrinnidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrinnidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E5),
  • G, G, G independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -
  • Alkyl group a (C 1 to C 4) monohydroxyalkyl, a (C 2 to C 4) alkyl group -Polyhydroxy-, alkyl an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted aryl (C- ⁇ -C 4), with the proviso that if G 25 for one
  • G 26 represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -
  • G 27 represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted aryl group, a (C 1 to
  • the radical -NG 25 G 26 binds to the 5 position and the radical G 27 to the 3 position of the pyrazole cycle.
  • Particularly preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-i-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- Diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5- Diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-yl Ethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the following formula (E6) and their tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists:
  • G, G and G, G independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) - Polyhydroxyalkyl radical is a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) - aminoalkyl radical which may optionally be protected by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical a (C 1 to C 4) alkylamino (C- ⁇ -C 4) alkyl, a di - [(C- ⁇ -C 4) - alkyl] - (C- ⁇ -C 4) aminoalkyl radical, where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyal
  • n has the value 0, and the groups NG 28 G 29 and NG 30 G 31 occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
  • pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E6) can be prepared as described in the literature by cyclization from an aminopyrazole or from hydrazine.
  • Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, N, N-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) - methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-amin
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy radicals according to the invention are -OCH 3 , -OCH 2 CH 3 ,
  • a particularly preferred example of a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl group is 1, 2
  • halogen atoms are F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred examples.
  • nitrogen-containing groups are in particular -NH 2 , (C 1 to C 4 ) -
  • Trialkylamino groups (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkylamino groups, imidazolinium and
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -monoalkylamino groups are -NHCH 3 , -NHCH 2 CH 3 , -NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 3 ,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -dialkylamino group are -N (CH 3 ) 2 , -N (CH 2 CH 3 ) 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) trialkylamino groups are -N + (CH 3 ) 3 , -N + (CH 3 ) 2 (CH 2 CH 3 ),
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkylamino radicals are -NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy- (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl groups are the groups -CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 3 ,
  • hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 OH, -O-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 , -O-
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -carbamoylanninoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 CH 2 -NH-C (O) -NH 2 ,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radicals are -CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 ,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -cyanoalkyl radicals are -CH 2 CN 1 -CH 2 CH 2 CN 1 -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CN.
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are -CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH 1
  • di [(d to C 4 ) hydroxyalkyl] amino (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl radicals are examples of di [(d to C 4 ) hydroxyalkyl] amino (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl radicals.
  • aryl groups is the phenyl group.
  • aryl (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.
  • Coupler components which are preferred according to the invention are m-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as, for example, 5-amino-2-naphthylphenol, N-
  • Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol 3-amino-2-chloro-6-naphthylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-anninophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5- Amino-4-chloro-2-naphthylphenol, 5-amino-4-niethoxy-2-naphthylphenol, 5- (2'-
  • Resorcinol monomethyl ether 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-
  • Chlororesorcinol 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene
  • Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino
  • Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7
  • Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
  • Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, Pyrimidine derivatives such as 4,6-diaminopyrinnidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrinnidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrinnidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-naphthylpyrinnidine, 2-amino- 4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrinnidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrinnidine, or methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3,4-nnethylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Pyrimidine derivatives such as 4,6-diaminopyrinnidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrinnidine,
  • coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-naphthylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol , 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-anninophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain the developer components in an amount of from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably contain the coupler components in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.
  • composition of the invention can be used as color-modifying component in the form of the Oxofarbstoffvor consist at least one combination of at least one compound of the component
  • Compounds according to the invention having a reactive carbonyl group have at least one carbonyl group as reactive group which reacts with the compounds of component 2 to form a chemical bond linking both components. Further are according to the invention, such compounds are also included as component 1 in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to the component 2 is always present.
  • These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with a) amines and their derivatives to form imines or oximes as a condensation compound b) alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound c) water to form hydrates as a condensation compound of aldehydes.
  • Component 1 is preferably selected from the group formed from acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3 Hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-dihydroxyacetophenone Trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethyl ketal, A-hydroxy-3-methoxy-acetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4- hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-dimethylamin
  • Piperidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal 5- (4-morpholinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 6- (4-dimethylanninophenyl) hexa 3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-diethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one , 6- (3,4-
  • CH-acidic compounds are generally considered to carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected.
  • CH-acidic compounds also include enamines which are formed by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with a CH-acidic alkyl group in conjugation with the quaternary nitrogen.
  • the CH-acidic compounds of component 2 are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethyl-benzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethyl-benzothiazolium-p- toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3 acetic
  • Preferred primary or secondary aromatic amines of component 2 are selected from N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2, 5-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline, 2-aminophenol, 3-aminophenol, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, o-phenylenediamine,
  • R 7 represents a hydroxy or an amino group represented by CI_ 4 alkyl, Ci. 4 -Hydroxyalkyl-, d- 4 - alkoxy- or Ci. 4- alkoxy-Ci. 4- alkyl groups may be substituted,
  • R 8 , R 9 , R 10 , R 11 and R 12 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy or an amino group which is represented by C 1 -C 4 -alkyl-, C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl, C 1 -C 4 - Alkoxy, Ci-C 4 - Aminoalkyl- or Ci-C 4- Alkoxy-Ci-C 4 -alkyl phenomenon can be substituted, stand, and
  • P is a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by hydroxy groups carbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a carbonyl, sulfoxy, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group of formula III
  • Q signifies a direct bond, a CH 2 or CHOH group
  • Q 'and Q are each independently an oxygen atom, an NR 13 group, wherein R 13 alkyl group, a hydrogen atom, a d. 4 alkyl or a hydroxy-C- ⁇ _ 4, wherein both groups together with the remainder of the molecule may form a 5-, 6- or 7-membered ring, the group O- (CH 2 ) p -NH or NH- (CH 2 ) p -O wherein p and p 'are 2 or 3, and
  • O is a number from 1 to 4,
  • nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are, for. B. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-anninopyridine, 2,3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino-pyridine, 2-methyl-amino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy 3,5-diaminopyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, N- [2- (2,
  • Suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are, for. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, pyrocatechol, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3-methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3-dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-phenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2 , 4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyace- tophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,
  • the compounds of component 1 and the compounds of component 2 are preferably used in the cosmetic compositions in each case in an amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total Nuancierstoffs used.
  • the molar ratio of the compound of the component 1 and the compound of the component 2 may be in the range of 0.5 to 2.0, preferably using equimolar amounts.
  • the ready-to-use agent is prepared by separate mixing of components 1 and 2 immediately prior to application.
  • indoles and indolines which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • these groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Particularly suitable precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IVa),
  • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxy-alkyl group
  • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and
  • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • indoline Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline,
  • Particularly noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-Dihydroxyindolin.
  • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl group
  • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and
  • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and especially the 5,6 -Dihydroxyindol.
  • the cosmetic composition therefore additionally contains at least one substantive dye.
  • Preferred substantive dyes which are used in the cosmetic compositions as color-modifying component are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, Anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 well-known compounds as well 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethy
  • the cosmetic agents may contain a cationic substantive dye. Particularly preferred are
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:
  • the compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5) which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • the cosmetic compositions contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • cosmetic compositions of the invention may also contain naturally occurring dyes.
  • dyes to be understood which are obtained from parts of plants. For this purpose, preferably different parts of plants, depending on the desired dye. It is understood, however, that a dye can be obtained from more than one plant part.
  • the preferred plant parts for obtaining natural dyes are included in the group formed by root, stems, bark, heartwood, resin, flower, leaf, fruit and sap.
  • the agents obtained from the plant parts represent dyes as such, but that they optionally also represent dye precursors which form the actual dye by subsequent chemical reactions. Mentioned here in particular the oxidation with atmospheric oxygen to form the chromophore.
  • the dyes or dye precursors in each case represent uniform compounds. Due different, nonuniform extraction methods such as different extraction or fermentation conditions or by using different, regional subspecies and different parts of plants or partly from culture-historical tradition contain some natural dyes deliberately no uniform compounds, but mixtures of dyes, dye precursors and other components, such as especially tannins.
  • a natural dye is, of course, also understood to mean a discrete colorant compound isolated from such a mixture or optionally also a plurality of discrete colorant compounds isolated from such a mixture.
  • Diaryloylmethane dyestuffs as for example contained in turmeric (Cl. Natural Yellow 3) - Curcuma domestica with the coloring constituents curcumin (Cl.75300), demethoxycurcumin and bisdemethoxycurcumin.
  • Naphthoquinone dyes such as in henna, red (Cl. Natural Orange 6) from the leaves of henna - Lawsonia inermis L with the coloring ingredient Lawson (Cl.75480):
  • alkana root or shikonin root (Cl.Natural Red 20) - Alkanna tinctoria or Lithospermum erythrorhizon with the coloring ingredients alkannane (Cl.75520) and alkannine (Cl.75530) or shikonin (Cl.75535):
  • Indigoid dyes such as, for example, in the leaves and partial stems of Indian Indigo Indigo Farmera (Indigofera argentea), Fawnwort lsatis tinctoria, Dyeing Colanders - Wrightia tinctoria and Wild Indigo - Baptisia tinctoria (CI Natural Blue 1) with the dye precursors lsatan B and Indican, which are oxidatively converted into the actual dye indigo (Cl.75780, Cl.73000) as well as subordinated indirubin (Cl.75790; Cl.73200) and isatin by a fermentation process:
  • flavonoid dyes such as, for example, in the flower heads of Roman chamomile - Chamaemelum nobile (Cl., Natural Yellow 1) and German chamomile - Chamomilla recutica with the coloring constituents apigenin (Cl.75580, CI Natural Yellow 1, 2), rutin (Cl 75530, Natural Yellow 10) and camphor oil (Cl.75460, Cl.Natural Yellow 13, 10) and quercetin (Cl.75670, CI Natural Yellow 10, 13; Cl. Natural Red 1) and glucosides derived therefrom:
  • neoflavanoid dyes such as, for example, in logwood (Cl.Natural Black 1), heartwood of Haematoxylum campechianum L. with the coloring flavinoid quercetin and the dye precursor hematoxylin, which is oxidatively converted into hematin dye (CI 75290, CI Natural Black 1 and 2 ) is converted:
  • insoluble redwood dyes such as in red sandalwood, heartwood of Pterocarpus santalinus L, Narrawood - Pterocarpus indicus L, Barwood - Pterocarpus soyauxii L, Camwood - Bahia nitida (Cl. Natural Red 22) with the coloring ingredients Santalin A, Santalin B, tetra-O-methylsantarubin, hompterocarpine, pterocarpine, maackiain, the isoflavionides formononetin and Santal, and the chalcone isoliquiritigenin and the flavone liquiritigenin:
  • Betaine dyes such as beetroot roots - Beta vulgaris containing the main coloring constituents betanidine and prebetanine and subordinate further betacyanines, betaxanthines, vulgaxanthines, anthocyanins and iron and copper complexes:
  • Gallotannin dyes for example in the bark of stalk or summer areas - Quercus robur L with the main coloring constituents from the group of gallotannins and ellagannins (glycosides of gallic acid or ellagic acid, Cl.75270):
  • Fumed tannin dyes as for example in Catechu (CI Natural Brown 3), a mixture of extracts of staining plants, preferably Acacia catechu, Areca catechu and Uncaria gambier, with a high proportion of catechin condensed tannins ('proanthocyanidins') -Type:
  • (+) - catechin as in the leaves of green and black ( fermented green) tea - Camellia sinensis, with the ingredients gallic acid, m-digallic acid, catechin, glycosides of flavonoids such as, among others, luteolin, apigenin, camphor oil, quercetin, myriecetine, and thearubingenins ( Proanthocyanidins), theaflavin and isotheaflavin:
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain at least one natural dye selected from the group comprising diaryloylmethane dyes, naphthoquinone dyes, flavonoid dyes, anthraquinone dyes, betalain dyes, gallotannin dyes and indigoid dyes.
  • Particularly preferred natural dyes according to the invention are those obtained from a plant selected from the group consisting of Indigofera tinctoria, Curcuma longa, Lawsonia inermis, Chamomilla recutita, Quercus robur, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rheum undulatum and Beta vulgaris.
  • the natural dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of natural dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight. It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the cosmetic products, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the staining or other reasons, such as toxicological, must be excluded.
  • the actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing.
  • the cosmetic agent is therefore mixed before application from a composition comprising at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetic carrier and a further composition containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing components.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10.
  • At least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • Bleach boosters are preferably used in bleaching agents for increasing the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide.
  • bleach amplifiers it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid.
  • Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups.
  • polyacylated alkylene diamines in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, especially tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso- NOBS), carboxylic acid anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • TAED tetraacetyl
  • carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts can preferably be used according to the invention. These are preferably selected from the group of ammonium, alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and alkaline earth (especially calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate,
  • Sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate are particularly preferred salts. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers.
  • At least one carbonic acid monoester and / or at least one carbonic acid monoamide are preferably used in the process according to the invention.
  • Preferred carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (V),
  • R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents.
  • Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably R is a C-. 6- alkyl group.
  • C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • compositions particularly preferably used in accordance with the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (V) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl - As well as hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • R in formula (V) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl -
  • hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals As an alternative to the carbonic acid monoester or in conjunction with it, carbonic acid monoamides can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to use at least one carbonic acid monoamide of the formula (VI),
  • R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents.
  • Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably R is a C-. 6- alkyl group.
  • C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • Bleach enhancers of the formula (VI) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (VI) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl , tert-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • the acidic H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide may also be in neutralized form, i. salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides can also be used according to the invention.
  • At least one silyl carbonate and / or at least one silyl carbamate are preferably incorporated in the inventive Incorporated compositions.
  • R (VIl) in which the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently of one another a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radical R 4 is a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or alumino group or for a substituted or unsubstituted aryl
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals.
  • the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred anhydrous compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, terf-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 in the abovementioned formula (VII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • At least one silyl carbamate of the formula (VIII) may be present in the anhydrous composition according to the invention.
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or for a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radicals R 4 and R 5 independently of one another for a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or alumino group or a substituted or unsubstitute
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals.
  • the alkyl groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl groups are preferred, so that preferred compositions are characterized in that the groups R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VIII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n Propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, terf-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 and R 5 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably at least one compound selected from acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid may be contained.
  • Bleach amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds.
  • the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself.
  • the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions.
  • Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxodisulfate salts, persulfate salts, (especially ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxyphosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide).
  • the inorganic compounds are preferred. Particularly preferred are the peroxodisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxodisulfate.
  • the bleach boosters are present in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 8 to 20% by weight.
  • the cosmetic agents of the invention when acting as a bleaching agent, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarboxylates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.
  • the cosmetic agents used in the process according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations:
  • the washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle.
  • the choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent.
  • at least one surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active substances. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen.
  • These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of particularly mild surface-active substances. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • the ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5. The ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2.
  • cationic and / or nonionic surfactants are preferably selected as surfactants. Again, a selection of the so-called mild surface-active substances is particularly preferred.
  • the surfactants essentially comprise two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers at the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • the following surfactants are exclusively known compounds. Regarding the structure and production of these substances, reference should be made to relevant reviews.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, Mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.
  • particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C Atoms (soaps),
  • Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z.
  • Sulfobernsteinklado- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • the Sulfobernsteinklamonoalkyl (C 8 -C 24 ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 - 24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinklaester.
  • Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfett Maschinenremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
  • R 1 Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula, R 1 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n -O- (PO-OX) -OR 2 , in which R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another is hydrogen or a C 1 - to C 4 -hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula RCO (Al k O) n SO 3 M in the RCO-- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C Atoms, Alk is CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and /
  • R 8 OC- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) x -OCH 2 - [CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) y H] -CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) z -SO 3 X, in which R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • Amide ether carboxylic acids R 1 -CO-NR 2 -CH 2 CH 2 -O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) n CH 2 COOM, with R 1 as the straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R 2 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is Is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical.
  • Such products are available, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product Akypo ®.
  • Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product are prepared by condensation of C8 - C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids having 12 - 18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products, as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins.
  • These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz.
  • Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® has long been in the trade,
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the Molecule, Sulfobernsteinklamono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • compositions according to the invention it is particularly advantageous if mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants.
  • mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants.
  • the effect of the composition according to the invention is particularly mild and gentle especially with regard to the needs of stressed skin and damaged hair.
  • millild surfactants is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning surfactants which are found in the numerous test methods such as the HET-CAM test, the neutral redness test, the BUS model (bovine and skin model), the human skin model, the Zeize test, the Draize test, the Armflexwashtest or the Duhringhunttest etc. have proven to be mild surfactants All test models have in common that a standard is measured against which the measurement results are obtained, in each of these test models there is a threshold below that of "mild surfactants" is spoken. This threshold is for example in the HET-CAM test 1, 5.
  • surfactants which have a relative irritation score of 1, 5 and smaller, for example, in the HET-CAM test are known as "mild.”
  • a person skilled in the art knows that a surfactant gives a different score in each test model. For example, a cocamidopropyl betaine may even be classified as "irritating" in the HET-CAM test, while in the other test models it is more likely to be considered mild surfactants.
  • a common and accepted classification defines surfactants as mild if they have a relative irritation score of less than 1.5 in the HET-CAM test. According to the invention, however, such surfactants are preferably used and understood as "mild surfactants" which are classified as “mild” in all current test models.
  • Particularly preferred surfactants used are mild surfactants which have a relative irritation score of less than 1.2 in the HET-CAM test.
  • Very mildly preferred surfactants used are surfactants which have a relative irritation score of less than 0.8 in the HET-CAM test.
  • the corresponding HET-CAM tests are carried out with a surfactant concentration of 3.0% active substance of the particular surfactant.
  • anionic surfactants have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention: Acyl lactylates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates,
  • Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z.
  • As lauric myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. As obtainable from coconut fatty acid C 12 - C 18 -Fettklandklar forcing used, obtained according to the invention preferably suitable C 12 - C 18 acyl isethionates,
  • Sulfobernsteinklado- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • the Sulfobernsteinklamonoalkyl (C 8 -C 24 ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 - 24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinklaer.
  • Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfett Maschinenmbamethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.
  • Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
  • R 1 Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula, R 1 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n -O- (PO-OX) -OR 2 , in which R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represents hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical,
  • monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates are used in which RCO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • Amide ether carboxylic acids R 1 -CO-NR 2 -CH 2 CH 2 -O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) n CH 2 COOM, with R 1 as the straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R 2 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is Is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical.
  • Such products are available, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product Akypo ®.
  • Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a suitable fatty acid derivative for example a fatty acid halide.
  • a suitable fatty acid derivative for example a fatty acid halide.
  • These are prepared by condensation of C8 - C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids having 12 - 18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products, as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins.
  • These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz.
  • Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® has long been in the trade,
  • the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Also, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether without restricted homologue distribution may for example be obtained even if the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are selected as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples of these are the commercial product Texapon ASV ®.
  • mild and anionic surfactants mentioned heretofore and in the following can also be used in the form of their salts.
  • Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are in each case in the form of the lithium, magnesium, zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group.
  • the preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, trimethylammonium, monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium, monoisopropylammonium, diisopropylammonium, triisopropylammonium, monobutylammonium, dibutylammonium , Tributylammonium, monoisobutylammonium, diisobutylammonium, triisobutylammonium, mono-t-butylammonium, di-t-butylammonium, tri-t-butylammonium ions and mixed ammonium ions such as, for example, methylethylammonium, dimethylethylammonium Methyl-diethylammonium, methyl
  • compositions are used, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, - sulfates, phosphates and / or -isethionate, which are derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the general formula (Tnio-2), with the meaning
  • the mild anionic surfactant is selected from anionic alkyl polyglycosides, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates, protein fatty acid condensates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates, acyl glutamates, and acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic alkyl polyglucosides such as alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates and also taurates and mixtures thereof.
  • the mixing ratio of these surfactants is at least 10: 1 to 1:10.
  • Preferred is a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5, and most preferably from about 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.
  • the radical is 0-CH 2 -COONa.
  • alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is a lauryl radical.
  • a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ® LCG Cognis Germany.
  • the glycoside units G are preferably derived from aldoses or ketoses.
  • the aldoses are used.
  • glucose is particularly suitable for their easy accessibility and technical availability.
  • the alkylglycosides which are particularly preferably used as starting materials are therefore the alkylglucosides.
  • the index p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization, i.
  • the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given compound always has to be an integer and can take here especially the values p 1 to 6, the value p for a particular alkyl glycoside an analytic calculated arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number.
  • alkyl glycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are used. Particular preference is given to those alkyl glycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5 and, in particular, lies between 1.1 and 1.4.
  • the alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and technical Fractions which, in addition to the saturated alcohols mentioned, may also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols and which are obtained on the basis of natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil or beef tallow. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also be derived from synthetic primary alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40% by weight of branched isomers.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Mixtures of the alkyl radicals result in a production starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, phosphates, sulfates or isethionates used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes.
  • the carboxylates are prepared, for example, by reacting the alkyloligoglycosides with salts of chlorocarboxylic acids in the presence of bases. For example, it is possible to react with 2-chloroacetic acid sodium salt in the presence of NaOH. In the reaction, both the hydroxyl groups in the ring and the -CH 2 -OH group can be reacted. The degree of conversion depends inter alia on the stoichiometry of the feedstock.
  • the alkyl oligoglycosides are reacted at least on the -CH 2 -OH group, optionally with an agent capable of reacting one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the ring.
  • hydroxyl groups may also be etherified, for example.
  • the preparation of the isethionates is also carried out by known methods of the prior art. It is also known that the products can be used for hair and body care. There are described in particular aqueous detergent mixtures containing isethionate Alkyloligoglykosid and, for example, other anionic surfactants.
  • the preparation of the sulfates is also carried out according to the prior art.
  • the corresponding alkyl glycoside can be reacted with gaseous sulfur trioxide or with sulfuric acid followed by neutralization.
  • Cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations containing the alkyloligoglycoside sulfates are also known.
  • detergent mixtures of alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates and alkyl ether phosphates are described which can be used, for example, in hair rinses, hair dyes or hair waving agents.
  • the mild anionic surfactants used according to the invention and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are used in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt .-%
  • the mild anionic surfactants used and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates can completely or partially replace the customary anionic surfactants in these compositions.
  • the mild anionic surfactants according to the invention can be used as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants can be used with each other or with other conventional anionic surfactants. These conventional anionic surfactants are explained in more detail later.
  • the mild anionic surfactants and other anionic surfactants may be present in a weight ratio ranging from 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, especially 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1 , 5, and most preferably 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.
  • amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may be included in the compositions of the invention. This probably leads to an increased deposition of the agents on the surface of the skin and the hair, which manifests itself in the overall cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair.
  • the particular charge effects of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants seem to play a role here.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal Salts are capable.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, acylaminoethylaminopropionat the coconut and the C 2 - C 8 - sarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ® - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (Tnio-1)
  • R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, as represented by the formula (Tnio-4): R 7 CO- (NR 8 ) -CH 2 - [CH (OH) J 4 -CH 2 OH (Tnio-4)
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (Tnio-4) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the sugar surfactants may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.
  • nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formalin, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.
  • the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • nonionic surfactants As additives for further improving the skin feel during and after the application, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention can therefore be recommended. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of from 0.1 to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of from 2 to 18.
  • Such products can be obtained by addition of ethylene oxide onto z.
  • the HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship
  • wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents.
  • the cationic surfactants form the last group of surfactants and have already been described in detail in their mode of action as conditioning agents. Cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention. Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the compositions according to the invention are to be used as shower baths.
  • the surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total amount used in accordance with the invention Medium, used.
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • a per se known emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1 - 5 wt .-% proved.
  • It is a mixed ester which is a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester.
  • the following formula describes the mixed ester in more detail: R 1 OOC-CH 2 - (CHOH-COOR 1 ) -CH 2 -COO-CH) 2 - [C (CH 2 OH) (COOR 2 ) 2]
  • R 1 and R 2 are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohol radicals having a chain length of 8 to 30 C atoms or radicals of dimerization products of these fatty alcohols.
  • the addition of such mixed esters a particularly pleasant feeling on the skin is achieved in the application of the body cleanser.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionogenic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the so-called mild emulsifiers.
  • the mildness of emulsifiers can be determined by various methods. To do this For example, the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model used. What is common to all test methods is that it is principally measured against a standard to which the results are referred. It is also pointed out that the chapter "Surfactants" has already described in detail how mild raw materials can be selected, as well as the selection of mild emulsifiers.
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
  • Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho),
  • Hydroxymix ethers for example of the formula
  • R 1 O [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] X (CH 2 CHR 2 O) X [CH 2 CH (OH) R 3 I Z with R 1 being a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and / or or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso - propyl radical, R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, x is 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y stands for a number from 1 to 30 and z stands for the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
  • Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines are quaternized alkylamidoamines.
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols).
  • zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.
  • suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol.
  • Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • Phospholipids include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • the particularly mild surfactants and emulsifiers are preferably used in the compositions.
  • the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates in amounts below 8 wt .-%, preferably less than 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably less than 2.5 wt .-% are used.
  • these compositions are free of alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates.
  • Free from in this context means that these ingredients are not used in any way, but it is possible that they may be introduced into the composition by other ingredients, such as the use of silicone emulsions, so “free from” preferably means smaller as 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably less than 0.1 wt .-%.
  • phase inversion temperature PIT
  • Emulsions prepared at or slightly below the phase inversion temperature are characterized by particular stability and fineness, while those prepared above the phase inversion temperature are less finely divided.
  • Emulsions that undergo phase inversion at a certain temperature are called PIT emulsions.
  • PIT emulsions may be preferred according to the invention because they contain significantly less emulsifier due to the just sufficient amount of emulsifier than conventional non-PIT emulsions. Therefore, they are not only particularly inexpensive, but also very mild and gentle on the skin and hair. Become in the PIT emulsions too ionic surfactants are used as emulsifiers, then these are added more preferably only after the preparation of the PIT emulsion during the cooling process of the PIT emulsion.
  • Amphoteric polymers as well as the cationic polymers according to the invention are very particularly preferred polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers can be further used as polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SO 3 ⁇ groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:
  • R1-CH CR2-CO-Z- (C n H 2n) -N (+) R3R4R5 A () (monol)
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3, R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z an NH group or an oxygen atom, n an integer from 2 to 5 and A ( 3 ) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
  • R6 and R7 independently of one another are a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and A 'is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid.
  • the radicals R3, R4 and R5 in formula (monol) are preferably methyl groups, Z is preferably an NH group and A (-) means preferably a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion. It is particularly preferred in this case to use acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride as the monomer (monol).
  • Preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are polymers whose anionic group is derived from at least one monomer of the formula (Mono3)
  • R8 and R9 independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, inter alia with the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).
  • the amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally contain one monomer (mono 4).
  • R 10 and R 11 independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 12 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 - to C 8 ) -alkyl group.
  • Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, inter alia, under the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
  • amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid which is commercially available, for example, under the name Rheothik® 11-80.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel®305 from SEPPIC.
  • this compound which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 4 -lsoparaffin) and a non-ionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.
  • Simulgel®600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have been found to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are commercially available, for example, under the trademark Carbopol®.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a 1,9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is commercially available under the name Stabileze® QM.
  • the anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types, one compound (Mono5) with at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and one di- or polyisocyanate (Mono6).
  • the compounds (Mono5) may be, for example, diols, triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols.
  • the compounds having more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually used only in small amounts in combination with a large excess of compounds having 2 active hydrogen atoms.
  • Examples of compounds (Mono5) are ethylene glycol, 1, 2 and 1, 3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -Propylenglykole, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane, hexamethylenediamine and ⁇ , ⁇ -diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.
  • Polyurethanes in which the compounds (monomer ⁇ ) are diols, triols and polyetherols may be preferred according to the invention.
  • polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.
  • Polyesterols are usually by modifying the compound (Mono5) with
  • Dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.
  • Toluene diisocyanate 4,4'-methylene di (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate used.
  • polyurethanes used in the invention may contain other building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • further building blocks there is no fundamental restriction as to whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks.
  • Polyurethanes which have proved to be particularly suitable according to the invention in many cases have been able to be characterized as follows: - Only aliphatic groups in the molecule
  • compositions according to the invention when the polyurethanes were not mixed directly with the other components, but introduced in the form of aqueous dispersions.
  • aqueous dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, in particular about 35-45% and are also commercially available.
  • a polyurethane which is very particularly preferred according to the invention is commercially available under the trade name Luviset® PUR (BASF).
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF).
  • Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 in each case vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as marketed, for example, under the trademarks Culminal® and Benecel® (AQUALON) and Natrosol® types (Hercules).
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone as sold for example under the name Luviskol® (BASF).
  • Siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble.
  • Siloxanes are understood compounds whose boiling point is above atmospheric pressure above 200 0 C.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as Polydimethylsiloxane, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, such as polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones.
  • the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders.
  • Suitable polymers are e.g. Polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides.
  • Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron.
  • Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are e.g.
  • Polytrap® Q5-6603 Dow Corning
  • Other polymer powders e.g. based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) with a particle size of 2-10 ⁇ m (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m2 / g under the trade name Orgasol® 2002 DU Nat Cos (Atochem SA, Paris) available.
  • Other spherical polymer powders suitable for the purpose of the invention are e.g.
  • NIKKOL's polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) or NIKKOL's (Plastic Powder A) copolymers, NIKKOL's styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP), AKZO's polyethylene and polypropylene powders (ACCUREL EP 400) or silicone polymers ( Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or even spherical cellulose powders.
  • the polymer powders described above are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Polymers regardless of their chemical structure and charge, can also be characterized by their function in cosmetic compositions.
  • the description of the polymers according to their function in the compositions according to the invention does not necessarily correspond to an evaluation or significance of these polymers. Rather, all polymers to be regarded as equivalent in principle for use in the compositions according to the invention, although some of these polymers may also be preferred.
  • some polymers can be found in several descriptions with different effects. Polymers which can bring about several desired effects are therefore particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the choice of the suitable polymer also depends on the use of the composition according to the invention.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particular preference is given to those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the composition according to the invention. Because of their pronounced film formation properties, these polymers are very particularly preferred in the compositions of the invention. The use of at least one of these polymers is therefore also very particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • film-forming polymers are also understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the skin or on the hair.
  • the film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.
  • Suitable synthetic film-forming, setting polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, Alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Suitable are e.g. Homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide.
  • Other suitable synthetic film-forming, setting polymers are e.g. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides which are sold, for example, under the trade names Akypomine® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich, or Sepigel® 305 by the company Seppic; Polyvinyl alcohols sold, for example, under the trade names Elvanol® by Du Pont or Vinol® 523/540 by Air Products, and polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, sold under the trade names Ucon® by Union Carbide. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers are e.g. Cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold for example under the trade name Nisso Sl® by Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.
  • Examples of common film formers are Abies Balsamea (Balsam Canada) Resin, Acetylenediurea / Formaldehyde / Tosylamide Crosspolymer, Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Behenyl Methacrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates /
  • the antistatic effect of polymers is another essential function for cosmetic agents.
  • the surfaces of the cosmetically treated substrates skin, nails and keratinic fibers are influenced in their electrical potential.
  • this effect reduces the effect known as "fly-away effect” and is based on the electrostatic repulsion of the hair fibers, but it also affects the skin surface on the skin surface, and some of these polymers have their optimum effect
  • preference is given from this group of polymers to those which at the same time belong to at least one of the groups of fixing and / or film-forming polymers
  • At least one antistatic, at least one fixing and at least one film-forming polymer can be used, but it is preferred to select the polymers such that at least one of the polymers has at least two of the desired properties.
  • antistatic polymers examples include:
  • the emulsion-stabilizing polymers are also among the polymers preferred according to the invention. These are understood to mean polymers which essentially support the structure and the stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions). Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential ingredients, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively affecting the continuous or disperse phase. This positive influence may be due to an electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or a film formation on the surface of the droplets. These properties of the polymers in question can also be used to particular advantage in the compositions according to the invention in order to dissolve the powdery compositions according to the invention before and / or during the application of the powder in water.
  • polymers examples include acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / amino acrylates / C 10 -oi alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / C 10 -3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / stearyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, AIIyI Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium
  • Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations.
  • aqueous phases their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems. This property of the polymers is also advantageous in the compositions according to the invention before and / or during use.
  • Acrylamide Copolymer Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylate.es/C 10 - 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth -20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates
  • Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products.
  • polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gelation of cosmetic products with high lipid levels. This also contributes significantly to the excellent application of the agents according to the invention.
  • Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer
  • microparticles filled or unfilled may also be used in the composition of the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active agent from the capsules or the achievement of particular visual, esthetic effects of the overall formulation.
  • Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids.
  • the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:
  • the preparations used contain a plurality, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the polymer (P) according to the invention may be both a consolidating and / or film-forming polymer and a polymer having conditioning or softening and / or thickening properties.
  • the polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (D) as further active ingredient.
  • D fatty substances
  • this composition increased amounts of the active ingredients are deposited on the hair or skin, resulting in synergistically enhanced effects.
  • this effect is further markedly increased by the further use of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers as deposition aids in the compositions according to the invention.
  • there is a change in the charge of the surface which can be measured, for example, by measuring the so-called Wilhelmy voltage.
  • Fatty substances (D) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis).
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, eg in the pressure cracking of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the amount is preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, with amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • fatty alcohols (D2) can be used saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 - and most preferably C 12 -C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Applicable for the purposes of the invention are, for example Decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their guerbet alcohols, these being List should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol®, eg Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, eg Lanette® O or Lorol®, eg Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, eg Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-% based on the total agent.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example: vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit®
  • isononanoic acid Ci -i 6 8 -alkyl Cetiol® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft® 24
  • stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol 868
  • cetyl oleate Glycerol tricaprylate
  • coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate Cetiol® J 600
  • isopropyl palmitate Rosanit® IPP
  • oleyl oleate Cetiol®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol® A
  • di-n -butyl adipate Cetiol® B
  • myristyl myristate Cet
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotricanecanoate, propylene glycol di ( 2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC),
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides which are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the
  • R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum is (m + n + q) 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic stearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.
  • the following table shows the average wages in% by weight of fatty acids of some of the oils according to the invention. Since the listed values are average values of the respective fatty acids, the sum of all fatty acids can also be greater or less than 100%. Of course, the effective values fluctuate more or less around these averages.
  • Preferred natural oils contain at least all fat-printed fatty acids, palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid.
  • Particularly preferred natural oils contain the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid in a total amount of at least 50% by weight of the fatty acids.
  • a plus sign behind the respective oils in the above table characterizes these particularly preferred natural oils.
  • Very particularly preferred oils are furthermore distinguished by an additional content of squalene.
  • Highly preferred natural oils and their mixtures also have a content of linolenic acids.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that at least two of the natural oils listed in the above table can be mixed together.
  • the natural oils must be selected so that the sum of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid gives at least 50% by weight of the sum of the total fatty acids.
  • Preferred mixtures of natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, amaranth seed oil with shea butter, amaranth seed oil with Camelina oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadam nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, olive oil with camelina oil, olive oil with shea butter, macadamia nut oil and at least one sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil with shea butter.
  • more than three of the natural oils should not be mixed together.
  • Argan oil is one of the most preferred natural oils and should therefore be described in more detail as an example. Argan oil itself has been known for a long time and is already widely used by humans. It is considered to be the most valuable vegetable oil, which is why it is also called "The Berber Gold.” This is also the reason why it has not found wide use and therefore little is known about the interaction with other ingredients of cosmetic compositions.
  • Argan oil is the oil of the seed of argan fruit.
  • the argan tree, Argania spinosa is one of the oldest trees in the world. Fear with a plum or olive-like appearance can not be consumed. The tree can bear fruit several times a year. The wood, the leaves and the fruits are very valuable and are used. The date-sized fruits are dried and pressed. The kernels of the fruit are won. The kernels are about three times the size of hazelnuts. The kernels are pitched to recover the seeds. These seeds are finally lightly roasted and ground to recover the oil.
  • Argan oil is slightly reddish and has a walnut-like taste. Argan oil is considered the most valuable vegetable oil. It is unusually rich in tocopherols and shows the strongest vitamin E activity of all known vegetable oils.
  • argan oil has a uniquely high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids of more than 80 wt .-%.
  • Argan oil is an excellent edible oil and dietary supplement. And also in cosmetic compositions argan oil is used because of its high content of vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids.
  • the importance of argan oil is also based on the unique sterols contained in argan oil, in particular Schottenol and spinasterol.
  • Argan oil contains to tocopherol per 100 g of oil about 50 to 90 mg of tocopherols, which are composed as follows: about 40 to 60 mg tocopherol, about 5 to 15 mg ß-tocopherol, about 5 to 10 mg tocopherol and about 0.5 to 5 mg tocopherol.
  • the ratio of unsaturated to saturated fatty acids in argan oil is about 4.5: 1.
  • the amount of sterols in the argan oil is about 120 to 250 mg / 100 g of oil.
  • the content of fatty acids is more than 99 wt .-%, of which more than 80 wt .-% are unsaturated.
  • the fatty acid composition is approximately as follows: palmitic acid 12 to 13%, stearic acid 5 to 7% and arachidonic acid 0.3 to 0.5% and the unsaturated fatty acids oleic acid 43 to 49.1%, linoleic acid 23.9 to 36.0%, Linoleic acid to 0.1 % and gadoleic acid to 0.5%.
  • the amount of linoleic acid in argan oil is about three times higher than that of olive oil.
  • Argan oil is traditionally used for cooking and in cosmetic compositions.
  • the North Africans use argan oil to rub their skin before visiting a steam bath. It penetrates quickly into the skin and leaves a pleasant and soft skin feeling.
  • Argan oil prevents the skin from drying out and aging and is also used to prevent itching. In hair care, it is recommended for brittle and dry hair and hair loss.
  • Amaranth seed oil can be easily incorporated into hair cleansing and conditioner. Incorporated into these compositions, the hair treated therewith remains more glossy and has improved care properties, in particular improved combing properties, more gloss and improved feel.
  • a hair cleanser based on amaranth seed oil requires the least amount of solubilizer, while comparable other oils require a significantly higher amount of solubilizer in order to ensure stable incorporation of the oil into the shampoo.
  • the amaranth seed oil can be stable and clear incorporated into a shampoo at a certain concentration of solubilizers, while many other natural oils have a phase separation.
  • the lipid fraction of the amaranth seeds consists essentially of triglycerides.
  • linoleic acid is the main component in the fatty acid distribution of the oil.
  • Myristic acid, stearic acid, vaccenic acid, ⁇ -linolenic acid, arachidic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid and behenic acid are also present in the fatty acid spectrum.
  • the Amaranthsamenöl rich in many vitamin E derivatives (including ⁇ -, ß-, ⁇ - and ⁇ -tocopherol and ⁇ - and ß-tocotrienol) and has a remarkable proportion of the phytosterols ⁇ 7-avenasterol, ⁇ 7-campesterol, ⁇ 7-sitosterol and ⁇ 7-stigmasterol.
  • a suitable oil according to the invention is available, for example, under the trade name "Amaranth Seed OiI" from the company Euro Ingredients.
  • Shea butter is to be described in more detail as another example of natural oils. Shea butter according to the invention is by no means used alone but only in admixture with at least one further natural oil, so that the total content of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid is at least 50% by weight.
  • Shea butter is similar to cocoa butter. Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the butter tree found in West Africa, Vitellaria paradoxa or Butyrospermum parkii, Sapotacaeae. It is tough-buttery consistency and relatively stable to oxidation. Shea butter is used directly for food purposes in the producer countries. Shea butter is characterized by the following characteristics: saponification number 178 to 196, iodine value 55 to 67, unsaponifiable 2 to 11%. Shea butter has a melting range of 32 to 42 0 C. A characteristic ingredient is the sheasterin, 2-Oleo-distearin.
  • the essential fatty acid composition is oleic acid 49 to 50%, stearic acid 35 to 42%, palmitic acid 5 to 6% and linoleic acid 4 to 5%. Due to the high proportion of unsaponifiable shea butter has a special status within the vegetable oils and fats. The proportion of unsaponifiable substances is usually only about 0.2 to 2% for vegetable fats. Therefore, the proportion of phytosterols in the shea butter is significantly higher than any other vegetable fats. Important representatives of the phytosterols of shea butter are, for example, ⁇ - and ⁇ -amyrin, Basseol, Parkeol and Lupeol. The structures of ⁇ - and ⁇ -amyrin are as follows:
  • shea butter phytosterols are all triterpenes with more than 15 carbon atoms. Finally, in the shea butter also a share of waxes available.
  • Shea butter is used in cosmetic compositions especially in skin care products. However, it is also included in some compositions for cleaning and care of keratinic fibers.
  • compositions further contain squalene.
  • Squalene is found in large quantities in shark fishes. In smaller quantities it is also found in some vegetable fats and oils. Squalene is also found in the natural lipid coat of keratinous fibers. Oils of the invention, which also contain squalene and are thus used most preferably according to the invention, can be found in Table 1 on the pages above. Squalene belongs to the triterpenes. The structure of squalene is shown in the following figure.
  • squalene becomes relative to the combination of fatty acids used in an amount of 1: 1000.
  • a ratio of 1: 100 is preferred.
  • Particularly preferred is a squalene: fatty acid ratio of 1:50, most preferably 1:20 and most preferably 1:10 and most preferably a ratio of 1: 5.
  • the amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies used in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 20% by weight. 15% by weight.
  • a last group of substances which can additionally be used as fatty substances in the agents according to the invention are the silicones already described above.
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that a mixture of a plurality of fatty substances (D) from different classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fatty substances, can be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components necessarily contain at least one further silicone component in this case.
  • the silicone component in this case is selected from the dimethiconols and the amodimethicones.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P).
  • Proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are able to significantly restructure the internal structure of the skin and hair.
  • Strengthening of the structure that is to say restructuring in the sense of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage to the skin caused by most diverse influences.
  • the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role.
  • Restructured areas of the skin and restructured hair are characterized, for example, by improved strength, reduced roughness or improved grip. In addition, they have an optimized strength and elasticity.
  • Proteins and protein hydrolysates have been known for a long time and are widely used in cosmetics. Reference is made to the relevant literature. Of course, these long-known protein hydrolysates in excellent Be used together with the novel novel protein hydrolysates and derivatives of the wool of Vikunja.
  • compositions according to the invention are used.
  • This foam which is very fine in structure, creamy and extremely pleasant to the touch, is achieved in all compositions in which, in particular, surface-active substances are contained as further ingredients.
  • the effectiveness of the composition according to the invention is further increased by the simultaneous use of polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids. In these cases, even after the application of the particular composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or its derivative remains on the surface of the hair, resulting in an improved effect. The hair is thus significantly strengthened and smoothed in its structure.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75 and the molecular weight for Glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and most preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • the present teaching according to the invention also encompasses that in the case of the amino acids, these may be present in the form of derivatives such as, for example, the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-esters.
  • the acyl group is a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl group may be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the alcohols on which the esterification is based are methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the amino acids can be simultaneously derivatized on both the N atom and the O atom.
  • the amino acids can also be used in salt form, in particular as mixed salts together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.
  • amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, norvaline , Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, valine, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine.
  • Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, proline, hydroxyproline serine and asparagine.
  • Alanine, glycine, histidine, lysine, serine and arginine are very particularly preferably used. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (German Gelatin Factories Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
  • Dehylan® Cosmetics
  • Promois® Interorgana
  • Collapuron® Cognis
  • Nutrilan® Cognis
  • Gelita-Sol® German Gelatin Factories Stoess & Co
  • Lexein® Inolex
  • Kerasol® Kerasol®
  • vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates as well as derivatives in cosmetics have been used more and more frequently recently.
  • Moringagewumblese To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewumblese. These include about 14 species. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Other species include Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrina. Extraction of this seed with a water-glycerin mixture yields an extract consisting of proteins having a molecular weight of about 500 to 50,000 daltons. Such a protein is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Puricare® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobi unanimouss.
  • Moringa growths have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their common name "Wunderbaum.” They are preferably native to tropical areas.The various parts of this genus of plants have been used since ancient times, especially for medical purposes.
  • This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50,000 daltons
  • Preferred is a protein extract with a molecular weight of 3,000 to 30,000 daltons, most preferably from 5,000 to 15,000 daltons
  • the most preferred extract is obtained from the plant Moringa oleifera
  • the extract according to the invention naturally contains water and glycerol on the basis of the extraction
  • the content of extracted protein in the extract is 0.01 to 20% by weight
  • a content of protein of 0.01 to 10% by weight is preferred preferred is an extract with a protein content of 0.01 up to 5% by weight rhin are contained in the extract at least 30 wt .-% glycerol.
  • water is contained in the extract according to the invention.
  • the above-described protein extract from the seeds of the Moringa growths is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight.
  • amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein® (Croda).
  • protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl extracts.
  • pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.
  • the cosmetic compositions contain one of the above-described pearl extracts in an amount of at least 0.01 up to 20% by weight.
  • amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique contenant un flavonoïde de formule (I), et au moins un autre ingrédient actif du complexe vitaminique B. Cette composition convient particulièrement bien pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux humains, afin d'améliorer l'hydratation des fibres, de réparer et de restructurer les fibres, et de les protéger contre les oxydants et le rayonnement UV, de même que pour améliorer la conservation de la couleur et l'intensité de la couleur lorsque les fibres sont des cheveux colorés.
PCT/EP2008/065036 2007-11-09 2008-11-06 Produit de traitement capillaire avec tiliroside et vitamine b WO2009060017A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102007053950.0 2007-11-09
DE102007053950A DE102007053950A1 (de) 2007-11-09 2007-11-09 Mittel mit Bioflavonoid
DE102008014368.5 2008-03-17
DE200810014368 DE102008014368A1 (de) 2008-03-17 2008-03-17 Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Tilirosid und Vitamin B

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Cited By (7)

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EP2295031A3 (fr) * 2009-08-05 2015-04-15 Symrise AG Utilisation de ptérocarpanes comme agents actifs anticellulite
CN104546882A (zh) * 2014-12-30 2015-04-29 黑龙江中医药大学 一种戒酒用药物
CN109157453A (zh) * 2018-10-22 2019-01-08 广州智尚生物科技有限公司 一种亲肤缓释组合物及其化妆品
CN112969447A (zh) * 2018-10-31 2021-06-15 汉高股份有限及两合公司 具有抗污染作用的用于处理角蛋白材料的化妆品产品
WO2021259543A1 (fr) * 2020-06-24 2021-12-30 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de coloration de matière kératinique, comprenant l'utilisation d'un composé de silicium organique, d'un dérivé de silanol alkylé, d'un composé colorant et d'un agent de post-traitement
WO2021259544A3 (fr) * 2020-06-24 2022-02-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Suspension de pigments et produit cosmétique fabriqué au moyen de cette suspension de pigments
CN114869802A (zh) * 2022-07-06 2022-08-09 美慕(北京)科技有限公司 具有护发助染功效的贻贝蛋白组合物及其制备方法和用途

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JP2005145882A (ja) * 2003-11-14 2005-06-09 Ichimaru Pharcos Co Ltd 化粧料組成物
WO2006099930A1 (fr) * 2005-03-23 2006-09-28 Merck Patent Gmbh Procede d'extraction pour produire des extraits de plante, notamment des extraits de waltheria paniculata contenant du tiliroside

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US5026833A (en) * 1989-09-28 1991-06-25 Kabushiki Kaisha Hayashibara Seibutsu Kagaku Kenkyuju 4G -alpha-D-glucopyranosyl rutin, and its preparation and uses
EP0680744A1 (fr) * 1994-05-05 1995-11-08 L'oreal Utilisation de flavonoides pour la protection des cheveux
US5885974A (en) * 1994-12-06 1999-03-23 Michael M. Danielov Therapeutic methods utilizing naturally derived bio-active complexes and delivery systems therefor
EP1300138A2 (fr) * 1994-12-13 2003-04-09 Beiersdorf AG Agents efficaces contre des états cutanés déficients hyper-réactifs et hypo-actifs et des dermatites manifestes
US6159475A (en) * 1997-11-06 2000-12-12 Olguin; Marsha E. Hair growth stimulant
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EP1479374A1 (fr) * 2003-05-22 2004-11-24 L'oreal Procédé de traitement cosmétique des rougeurs
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Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2295031A3 (fr) * 2009-08-05 2015-04-15 Symrise AG Utilisation de ptérocarpanes comme agents actifs anticellulite
CN104546882A (zh) * 2014-12-30 2015-04-29 黑龙江中医药大学 一种戒酒用药物
CN104546882B (zh) * 2014-12-30 2015-09-09 黑龙江中医药大学 密蒙花苷在制备酒精依赖治疗药物中的应用
CN109157453A (zh) * 2018-10-22 2019-01-08 广州智尚生物科技有限公司 一种亲肤缓释组合物及其化妆品
CN112969447A (zh) * 2018-10-31 2021-06-15 汉高股份有限及两合公司 具有抗污染作用的用于处理角蛋白材料的化妆品产品
WO2021259543A1 (fr) * 2020-06-24 2021-12-30 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de coloration de matière kératinique, comprenant l'utilisation d'un composé de silicium organique, d'un dérivé de silanol alkylé, d'un composé colorant et d'un agent de post-traitement
WO2021259544A3 (fr) * 2020-06-24 2022-02-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Suspension de pigments et produit cosmétique fabriqué au moyen de cette suspension de pigments
CN114869802A (zh) * 2022-07-06 2022-08-09 美慕(北京)科技有限公司 具有护发助染功效的贻贝蛋白组合物及其制备方法和用途

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