WO2008064979A2 - Cosmetic compositions containing a siloxane- containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative; use of said derivative as solvent in oils; novel siloxane- containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivatives - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions containing a siloxane- containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative; use of said derivative as solvent in oils; novel siloxane- containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivatives Download PDF

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WO2008064979A2
WO2008064979A2 PCT/EP2007/061996 EP2007061996W WO2008064979A2 WO 2008064979 A2 WO2008064979 A2 WO 2008064979A2 EP 2007061996 W EP2007061996 W EP 2007061996W WO 2008064979 A2 WO2008064979 A2 WO 2008064979A2
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radical
formula
derivatives
triazine
chosen
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PCT/EP2007/061996
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French (fr)
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WO2008064979A3 (en
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Didier Candau
Benoit Muller
Hervé Richard
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR0655122A external-priority patent/FR2908993A1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2008064979A2 publication Critical patent/WO2008064979A2/en
Publication of WO2008064979A3 publication Critical patent/WO2008064979A3/en

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    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08GMACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G77/00Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a linkage containing silicon with or without sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen or carbon in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G77/04Polysiloxanes
    • C08G77/38Polysiloxanes modified by chemical after-treatment
    • C08G77/382Polysiloxanes modified by chemical after-treatment containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, oxygen or silicon
    • C08G77/388Polysiloxanes modified by chemical after-treatment containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, oxygen or silicon containing nitrogen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07FACYCLIC, CARBOCYCLIC OR HETEROCYCLIC COMPOUNDS CONTAINING ELEMENTS OTHER THAN CARBON, HYDROGEN, HALOGEN, OXYGEN, NITROGEN, SULFUR, SELENIUM OR TELLURIUM
    • C07F7/00Compounds containing elements of Groups 4 or 14 of the Periodic System
    • C07F7/02Silicon compounds
    • C07F7/08Compounds having one or more C—Si linkages
    • C07F7/0834Compounds having one or more O-Si linkage
    • C07F7/0838Compounds with one or more Si-O-Si sequences
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L83/00Compositions of macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming in the main chain of the macromolecule a linkage containing silicon with or without sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen or carbon only; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • C08L83/04Polysiloxanes
    • C08L83/08Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to organic groups containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen and oxygen

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter .
  • composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , characterized in that it contains at least one liquid fatty phase and a low- solubility lipophilic active agent.
  • the present invention relates to the use of at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter, in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low- solubility lipophilic active agent, as solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase, and in particular as solvent for organic UV screening agents that are not readily soluble.
  • the present invention also relates to novel specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide compounds of formula (I) .
  • cosmetic or dermatological products are provided in various galenical forms comprising a liquid fatty phase, such as dispersions, oily lotions, oil/water, water/oil or multiple emulsions, or cream gels.
  • Certain cosmetic or dermatological active agents that are particularly advantageous, such as lipophilic organic screening agents that are not readily soluble in the oily phase of these formulations, have a tendency, during storage, to form crystals or to precipitate, in particular in emulsions.
  • low-solubility lipophilic active agents such as the active agents chosen from aminophenol derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, 2-amino-4- alkylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide derivatives, in particular
  • dehydroepiandrosterone chemical derivatives and precursors thereof, such as 7 -hydroxy- or 7-keto-DHEA, or else 3 ⁇ -acetoxy-7-keto-DHEA, cholesterol and esters thereof, plant sterols such as phytosterols and sitosterols and esters thereof, pentacyclic triterpene acids, hydroxystilbenes, isoflavonoids, lipophilic organic UV screening agents with low solubility in antisun formulations, retinol and derivatives thereof, carotenoids such as lycopene, and also fragrances, essential oils, hormones, vitamins, in particular vitamin E, ceramides, or mixtures thereof.
  • antisun compositions are often in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, of gels or of anhydrous products which contain, at various concentrations, one or more lipophilic and/or hydrophilic, insoluble and/or soluble, organic and/or inorganic screening agents, capable of selectively absorbing harmful UV radiation.
  • screening agents and the amounts thereof are selected according to the desired protection factor.
  • the screening agents can distribute, respectively, either into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase of the final composition.
  • certain organic UV screening agents are particularly advantageous, for instance s-triazine derivatives, since they are highly active in the UV-B range and the UV-A range depending on the substituents grafted onto the triazine ring, and generally exhibit good photostability .
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives in particular 4-(tert- butyl) -4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane
  • benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-3
  • oils such as oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty (mono/poly) alcohols ("Cetiol HE” from Henkel or “Witconol APM” from Witco) or else fatty esters such as Ci 2 -Ci 5 alkyl benzoate (“Finsolv TN” from Finetex) , or amino acid derivatives (“Eldew SL205” from Ajinomoto), because the solubility of these screening agents in these commonly used oils is insufficient.
  • oils such as oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty (mono/poly) alcohols (“Cetiol HE” from Henkel or “Witconol APM” from Witco) or else fatty esters such as Ci 2 -Ci 5 alkyl benzoate (“Finsolv TN” from Finetex) , or amino acid derivatives (“Eldew SL205” from Ajinomoto), because the solubility of these screening
  • the present invention therefore relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter.
  • the present invention relates in particular to a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate ester or amide derivative of formula
  • (I) characterized in that it contains at least one liquid fatty phase and a low-solubility lipophilic active agent.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter, in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low-solubility lipophilic active agent, as solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase, and in particular as sole solvent for said active agent.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of at least one derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low- solubility lipophilic active agent, for the purpose of improving the effectiveness of said active agent and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of said composition.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of at least one derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low- solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agent, for the purpose of improving the sun protection factor and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of this composition.
  • the present invention also relates to novel specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide compounds of formula (I) .
  • cosmetically acceptable is intended to mean compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, smell and feel and which does not generate any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness, redness) that may dissuade the consumer from using this composition.
  • liquid fatty phase is intended to mean a fatty phase which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 0 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) , composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature, also known as oils, and that are compatible with one another.
  • lipophilic active agent is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological active agent capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or else of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example, in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
  • low-solubility lipophilic active agent is intended to mean a lipophilic active agent which, at ambient temperature and in its preferred concentration range as specified below, has a phase that is insoluble in the oily phase of the composition, which limits its bioavailability and thus impairs the effectiveness of the composition.
  • siloxane-containing arylalkyl amide derivatives in accordance with the invention are chosen from those corresponding to general formula (I) below:
  • Ci-C 4 alkyl radical is a linear or branched Ci-C 4 alkyl radical
  • - p is 0 - 2
  • - m is 0 - 4
  • - X is -N(R 2 ) -
  • B is a divalent radical chosen from the group corresponding to one of the following formulae (II) , (III) and (IV) :
  • Z is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 8 alkyl radical,
  • W represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 8 alkyl radical, v is 0 or 1.
  • the organosiloxane can contain units of formula (R) b -(Si) (0) ⁇ 4 -b) / 2 in which:
  • the - (Si) (R) a (0) (3 - a ) / 2 groups can be represented by formula (V) or (VI) below:
  • R 3 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-C 20 alkyl, phenyl, 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl and trimethylsilyloxy radicals, at least 80% by number of the R 3 radicals being methyl,
  • linear or cyclic diorganosiloxanes of formula (V) or (VI) which fall within the context of the present invention are random oligomers or polymers preferably having at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:
  • the SiH groups may be present in the chain and/or at the ends of the chain. These SiH-containing derivatives are well-known products in the silicone industry and are generally commercially available. They are, for example, described in United States Patents US 3220972, US 3697473 and US 4340709.
  • the derivatives of formula (I) in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the compositions of the invention at contents ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the derivative (s) of formula (I) in accordance with the invention is (are) preferably present in an amount sufficient to solubilize, by itself or by themselves (without it being necessary to use another solvent) , the total amount of active agent (s) not readily soluble that is (are) present in the composition.
  • the lipophilic active agents are of low solubility when they exhibit, at ambient temperature and in their preferred concentration range as specified below, a phase which is insoluble in the oily phase of the composition, which limits their bioavailability and thus impairs the effectiveness of the composition.
  • the low-solubility lipophilic active agents in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from aminophenol derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide derivatives, in particular 2-amino-4-dodecylamino- pyrimidine 3-oxide, DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone) , chemical derivatives and precursors thereof such as 7 -hydroxy- or 7-keto-DHEA, or else 3 ⁇ -acetoxy-7-keto- DHEA, cholesterol and esters thereof, plant sterols such as phytosterols and sitosterols and esters thereof, pentacyclic triterpene acids, hydroxy- stilbenes, isoflavonoids, low-solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agents, retinol and derivatives thereof, carotenoids such as lycopene, and also fragrances, essential oils, hormones, vitamins, in particular vitamin E, ceramides, or mixtures thereof
  • aminophenol derivatives used are more particularly the derivatives of formula (I) below:
  • R' is a radical chosen from the group made up of the following radicals (a) , (b) and (c) :
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or an optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci to C 6 alkyl radical
  • R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a radical chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci 2 to C 30 alkyl radicals, which is optionally hydroxylated, and
  • R 3 represents a radical chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, including condensed polycyclic, Ci 2 to C 30 alkyl radicals, which are optionally hydroxylated.
  • R 2 or R 3 radicals containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms mention may advantageously be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, tert-butyl, hexyl , octyl, nonyl , 2-ethylhexyl, dodecyl , hexadecyl , behenyl , octadecyl and 2-butyloctyl radicals.
  • These radicals preferably contain from 1 to 12 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the alkyl radical generally contains from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • As lower alkyl radical mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl and hexyl radicals.
  • a radical having one or more ethylenic unsaturations such as more particularly the allyl radical, is preferred.
  • alkyl radical is cyclic
  • the radical When it is hydroxylated, the radical preferably contains from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups.
  • a radical preferably containing 1 or 3 carbon atoms, in particular the hydroxymethyl , 2-hydroxyethyl , 2-hydroxypropyl or 3-hydroxypropyl radical is preferred.
  • a radical containing from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and from 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups such as the 2 , 3-dihydroxypropyl, 2 , 3 , 4-trihydroxybutyl , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5-tetrahydroxypentyl or 2, 3, 4, 5, 6-pentahydroxyhexyl radical is preferred.
  • alkoxylated radicals are alkyl radicals, as in particular described above, preceded by an oxygen atom.
  • the aminophenol derivatives used in the present application are those for which at least one and preferably all the conditions below are met: - the -OH function on the phenyl radical is in the ortho-position or, advantageously, in the para- position, - R' is chosen from a radical of formula (a) or (b) .
  • linear or branched alkyl radicals R 1 mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert- butyl or hexyl radicals.
  • the aminophenol derivative preferably used in said composition is a para-aminophenol derivative; even more preferably, it is N-ethoxycarbonyl -4 -para-aminophenol of formula (Ia) :
  • N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl -4 -para-aminophenol of formula (Ib) is N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl -4 -para-aminophenol of formula (Ib) :
  • the compounds with a long hydrocarbon-based chain are insoluble in oils, due to their steric hindrance, and have a tendency to recrystallize from water .
  • compositions according to the present invention comprising such an aminophenol derivative can be used as a depigmenting or bleaching agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition.
  • these compositions will be used for treating regional hyperpigmentations caused by melanocyte hyperactivity, such as idiopathic melasmas which occur in the course of pregnancy ("pregnancy mask” or chloasma) or of oestroprogestative contraception, localized hyper- pigmentations caused by benign melanocyte proliferation and hyperactivity, such as senile pigmentation blemishes known as actinic lentigo, accidental hyperpigmentations or depigmentations, possibly caused by post-lesional cicatrization and photosensitization, and also certain leucodermias such as vitiligo.
  • melanocyte hyperactivity such as idiopathic melasmas which occur in the course of pregnancy ("pregnancy mask" or chloasma) or of oestroprogestative contraception
  • the concentration of aminophenol derivatives of the composition according to the present invention is from 0.001% to 30%, more preferably from 0.001% to 15%, even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
  • the amount of amino acid esters will depend on the amount of aminophenol derivatives to be solubilized and may be between 0.01% and 90% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the low-solubility salicylic acid derivatives are the derivatives of formula
  • R"i represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula
  • R" 4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms
  • R" 2 and R" 3 independently of one another, are in the 3-, 4-, 5- or 6 -position on the benzene ring and represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a radical :
  • n and m independently of one another, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1, provided that R" 2 and R"3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms, and R" 5 represents a hydrogen, a linear, branched or cyclized, saturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an unsaturated radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or unconjugated double bonds, it being possible for the radicals to be substituted with at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms
  • the salicylic acid derivative is such that R" 5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.
  • the salicylic acid derivative is such that R"i represents a hydroxyl radical.
  • the salicylic acid derivative is such that R" 5 is in the 5-position on the benzene ring and R" 2 represents a hydrogen atom.
  • the salicylic acid derivatives are derivatives of 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5- methsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl- ⁇ -methylsalicylic acid, 3 , 5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoyl- salicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and
  • salicylic acid derivatives in topical compositions, for example, as a keratolytic agent for treating acne or as an anti -ageing agent;
  • Patent Applications FR-A-2 581 542 and EP-A-378 936 describe such derivatives.
  • Salicylic acid derivatives are highly advantageous in particular for preventing or repairing the principal manifestations of skin ageing, namely fine lines and wrinkles, disruption of the "grain" of the skin, modification of the complexion of the skin and loss of firmness and of tonicity of the skin.
  • the use of these derivatives poses a problem insofar as, when they are introduced without modification into topical compositions, they do not solubilize and remain in the crystalline state, rendering the use of the composition containing them ineffective for the treatment of the skin.
  • these derivatives are solubilized in lower alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol, or solvents such as octyldodecanol, certain glycols, or short-chain (less than Ci 2 ) fatty alcohols.
  • lower alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • solvents such as octyldodecanol, certain glycols, or short-chain (less than Ci 2 ) fatty alcohols.
  • these lower alcohols have the drawback of drying out and irritating the skin; it is therefore preferred to avoid using them in body and/or facial care products.
  • these solubilizing agents can only be introduced in small amounts otherwise they may impair the cosmetic qualities (drying out of the skin) and the stability of the compositions containing them.
  • the concentration of salicylic acid derivatives of the composition according to the present invention is preferably from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of amino acid esters will depend on the amount of salicylic acid derivatives to be solubilized. It may be from 0.01% to 90% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprising at least one salicylic derivative can be used as a cosmetic or dermatological composition, and in particular for caring for, protecting, cleansing and/or making up keratin materials of human beings (skin, lips, keratin fibres such as the hair and eyelashes) , and in particular for combatting the signs of skin ageing and/or for smoothing facial and/or body skin and/or for treating wrinkles and fine lines of the skin and/or for stimulating the process of epidermal renewal and/or for depigmenting or bleaching the skin and/or for treating acne and/or for treating skin disorders.
  • skin disorders is intended to mean in particular zona, burns, eczema, demodicidosis, skin ulcers, fibrosis, control of cicatrizations, psoriasis, pruritis, dermatitis, ichtyosis, corns and warts.
  • the derivatives of the 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide family are the derivatives of general formula:
  • R 4 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms
  • Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an -OR 5 radical in which R 5 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and also its acylated forms or its addition salts with acids.
  • R 4 is chosen from the group made up of hexyl , heptyl , octyl, nonyl , decyl , undecyl and dodecyl radicals .
  • R 5 is chosen from the group made up of ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl radicals.
  • the derivatives of the 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide family can in particular be used in or for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition in accordance with the present invention for preventing and treating problems associated with sensitive skin and skin disturbances such as skin discomfort, tautness of the skin, skin itching, skin swelling, redness of the skin and heat sensation of the skin.
  • DHEA DHEA
  • DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone also known as 3-beta- hydroxyandrost-5-en-17-one, or dehydroisoandrosterone, but also trans-dehydroandrosterone or prasterone, has the formula:
  • DHEA precursors to which the invention relates is intended to mean its biological precursors which are capable of being converted to DHEA during metabolism, and also its chemical precursors which can be converted to DHEA by exogenous chemical reaction.
  • biological precursors are ⁇ 5 -pregnenolone, 17 ⁇ -hydroxypregnenolone and 17 ⁇ -hydroxypregnenolone sulphate without this list being limiting.
  • chemical precursors of DHEA is intended to mean in particular saponins and their derivatives such as hecogenin ( (3beta, 5alpha, 23r)-3- hydroxyspirostan-12-one) and hecogenin acetate, diosgenin (5-spirosten-3beta-ol) , smilagenin and sarsapogenin, and also natural extracts containing them, in particular fenugreek and extracts of Dioscorea plants such as wild yam root, without this list being limiting .
  • saponins and their derivatives such as hecogenin ( (3beta, 5alpha, 23r)-3- hydroxyspirostan-12-one) and hecogenin acetate, diosgenin (5-spirosten-3beta-ol) , smilagenin and sarsapogenin, and also natural extracts containing them, in particular fenugreek and extracts of Dioscorea
  • DHEA derivatives is intended to mean both its metabolic derivatives and its chemical derivatives.
  • metabolic derivatives mention may in particular be made of ⁇ 5-androstene-3 , 17-diol, and in particular 5-androstene-3 ⁇ , 17 ⁇ -diol, ⁇ 4-androstene-3 , 17-dione, 7 -hydroxy-DHEA (7 ⁇ -hydroxy-DHEA or 7 ⁇ -hydroxy-DHEA) and 7-keto-DHEA, which is itself a metabolite of 7 ⁇ - hydroxy-DHEA, without this list being limiting.
  • 7 ⁇ -Hydroxy-DHEA is, with 5-androstene-3 ⁇ , 17 ⁇ -diol, a major metabolite of DHEA, obtained by the action of 7 ⁇ -hydroxylase on DHEA.
  • 7 ⁇ -Hydroxy-DHEA is a minor metabolite of DHEA, obtained by the action of 7 ⁇ -hydroxylase on DHEA.
  • the 7 -hydroxy-DHEA preferably used in the compositions according to the present invention is 7 ⁇ -hydroxy-DHEA.
  • a process for preparing this compound is described in Patent Applications FR 2 771 105 and WO 94/08688.
  • DHEA salts and in particular water-soluble salts such as DHEA sulphate,- DHEA esters such as esters of hydrocarboxylic acids and of DHEA, in particular those described in Patent US 5 736 537, or else DHEA salicylate, DHEA acetate, DHEA valerate (or n-heptanoate) and DHEA enanthate.
  • the concentration of DHEA-based compound in the composition according to the present invention can advantageously range from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20%, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. These compounds will be in solubilized form between 2O 0 C and 9O 0 C.
  • low-solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agent is intended to mean any organic UV screening agent having a water-solubility of less than 0.1% by weight and a solubility of less than 15% by weight in most organic solvents, such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol ® 812 sold by the company Dynamit Nobel.
  • This solubility, realized at 7O 0 C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after a return to ambient temperature. It can be readily evaluated in the laboratory.
  • low- solubility lipophilic organic screening agents used in the compositions of the invention, mention may in particular be made of: triazine derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; benzophenones .
  • the triazine derivatives may in particular be chosen from the 1 , 3 , 5-triazine derivatives of formula (2) below:
  • - X a which may be identical or different, represent oxygen or the -NH- radical
  • R - R a which may be identical or different, are chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci 8 alkyl radical; a C 5 -Ci 2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals; a polyoxyethylenated radical comprising from 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and the terminal OH group of which is methylated; a radical of formula (4) , (5) or (6) below:
  • R 4 is hydrogen or a methyl radical
  • R 5 is a Ci-C 9 alkyl radical; - q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3;
  • - r is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
  • - A' is a C 4 -C 8 alkyl radical or a C 5 -C 8 cycloalkyl radical
  • - B' is chosen from: a linear or branched Ci-C 8 alkyl radical; a C 5 -C 8 cycloalkyl radical; an aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals .
  • a first more particularly preferred family of 1 , 3 , 5-triazine derivatives in particular described in document EP-A-O 517 104, is that of the 1 , 3 , 5-triazines corresponding to formula (2) in which Ai, A 2 and A 3 are of formula (3) and have the following characteristics:
  • X a -R a radicals represents the -NH-R 3 radical with R a chosen from: a C 5 -Ci 2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4) , (5) or (6) above in which:
  • - B' is a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical
  • - R 5 is the methyl radical
  • X a -R a represent the -0-R a radical with R a , which may be identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci 8 radical; a C 5 -Ci 2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which: - B' is a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical;
  • R 5 is the methyl radical.
  • a second more particularly preferred family of 1, 3, 5-triazine derivatives in particular described in document EP-A-O 570 838, is that of the 1 , 3 , 5-triazines corresponding to formula (2) in which Ai, A 2 and A 3 are of formula (3) and have all of the following characteristics :
  • X a -R a represent the -NH-R 3 radical, with R a chosen from: a linear or branched Ci-Ci 8 alkyl radical; a C 5 -Ci 2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which:
  • - B' is a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical
  • - R 5 is the methyl radical
  • the other or the two other X a -R a being the -0-R a radical with R a , which may be identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci 8 alkyl radical; a C 5 -Ci 2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which:
  • - B' is a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical
  • - R 5 is the methyl radical
  • a particularly preferred 1 , 3 , 5-triazine of this second family is 2- [p-tert-butylamido) anilino] -4 , 6-bis [p- (2 ' - ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxycarbonyl) anilino] -1,3, 5-triazine or "Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone" sold under the trade name "Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V and corresponding to the formula below:
  • R' denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R" denotes a tert-butyl radical.
  • a third preferred family of compounds that can be used in the context of the present invention, and which is in particular described in document US 4,724,137, is that of the 1, 3 , 5-triazines corresponding to formula (2) in which A 1 , A 2 and A 3 are of formula (3) and have the following characteristics:
  • R - R a which may be identical or different, represent a C 6 -Ci 2 alkyl radical or a polyoxyethylenated radical comprising from 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and the terminal OH group of which is methylated.
  • a particularly preferred 1 , 3 , 5-triazine of this third family is 2 , 4 , 6-tris [p- (2 ' -ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxycarbonyl) - anilino] -1 , 3 , 5-triazine or "Ethylhexyl Triazone” sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul T 150" by the company BASF and corresponds to the formula below: in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical.
  • the triazine derivatives may also be chosen from the bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives, in accordance with the present invention, corresponding to formula (7) below:
  • R 6 and R 7 radicals which may be identical or different, denote a C 3 -Ci 8 alkyl radical; a C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical or else a residue of formula
  • Tl is a hydrogen atom or a
  • Ci-C 8 alkyl radical Ci-C 8 alkyl radical
  • R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ci 0 alkyl radical, a radical of formula - (CH 2 CHRi 0 -0) niR 9 where rii is an integer from 1 to 16, or else a residue of structure -CH 2 -CH- (OH) -CH 2 OTl with Tl having the same meaning indicated above,-
  • R 9 denotes hydrogen, a metal cation M, a Ci-C 5 alkyl radical or a residue of formula -(CH 2 ) m2 -0Tl where m2 is an integer from 1 to 4 and Tl has the same meaning indicated above,-
  • - Ri o is hydrogen or methyl
  • the alkyl radicals are linear or branched and can be chosen, for example, from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, amyl , isoamyl, tert-amyl, heptyl , octyl, isooctyl, nonyl , decyl , undecyl , dodecyl , tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl or octadecyl;
  • alkenyl radicals can be chosen, for example, from allyl, methallyl, isopropenyl, 2-butenyl, 3-butenyl, isobutenyl, n-penta-2 , 4-dienyl , 3-methylbut-2-enyl , 2-n-octenyl, 2-n-dodecenyl , isododecenyl or 4-n-octa- decenyl ;
  • alkoxy radicals are linear or branched and can be chosen, for example, from methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy, sec-butoxy, tert-butoxy, amyloxy, isoamyloxy or tert-amyloxy;
  • Ci-C 5 monoalkylamino or dialkylamino radicals can be chosen, for example, from methylamino, ethylamino, propylamino, n-butylamino, sec-butylamino, tert-butyl - amino, pentylamino, dimethylamino, diethylamino, dibutylamino or methylethylamino;
  • the metal cations are alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations or metal cations chosen, for example, from lithium, potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, copper and zinc.
  • the bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives of formula (7) of the invention are screening agents already known per se. They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in Patent Application EP-A-0775 698.
  • the compound derived from bisresorcinyltriazine that is more particularly preferred according to the invention will be the compound 2 , 4-bis ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2- hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) sold under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by Ciba Geigy.
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives mention may in particular be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of:
  • benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF
  • benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "Uvinul D50” by BASF
  • benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold under the trade name
  • UV-24 by American Cyanamid, benzophenone- 12 , n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold under the name "Uvinul A+” by BASF.
  • one or more low- solubility UV screening agents will be chosen as low-solubility lipophilic active agent for the purpose of the invention.
  • the low-solubility lipophilic UV screening agent (s) is (are) preferably present in the compositions at contents which are generally from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably at contents of from 0.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the derivative (s) of formula (I) in accordance with the invention is (are) used as sole solvent for said active agent (s) that is (are) not readily soluble.
  • Another subject of the invention consists of the use of at least one derivative of formula (I) as defined above, in a cosmetic or dermatological photoprotective composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low-solubility organic UV screening agent for the purpose of improving the sun protection factor and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of this composition.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise other additional organic or inorganic UV screening agents that are active in the UVA range and/or the UVB range and that are water-soluble or liposoluble or else insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.
  • the additional organic photoprotective agents are in particular chosen from anthranilates ; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; hydrosoluble benzophenone derivatives ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenyl acrylate derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those mentioned in Patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives as described in Patents EP 669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in Applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893119; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described in particular in Application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from ⁇ -alkylstyrene, such as those described in Patent Application DE 19855649;
  • Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer
  • Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the name
  • Neo Heliopan TS sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer
  • Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF
  • Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul N35” by BASF
  • Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,
  • Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232" by Merck, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer,
  • Methyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA” Haarmann and Reimer,
  • Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "Parsol SLX” by Hoffmann La Roche,
  • the preferred additional organic photoprotective agents are chosen from:
  • the inorganic photoprotective agents are chosen from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) such as, for example pigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form) , iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents well-known per se .
  • the pigments may be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminium) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate .
  • surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium,
  • silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic structure, that are branched or crosslinked, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and composed for the main part by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are joined together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond) , optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
  • silanes also encompasses the silanes required for their preparation, in particular, alkylsilanes .
  • the silicones used for coating pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes . Even more preferably, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogensiloxanes .
  • the metal oxide pigments prior to their treatment with silicones, may have been treated by other surface agents, in particular by cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminium compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
  • the coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: silica, such as the product “Sunveil” from Ikeda and the product “Eusolex T-AVO” from Merck; silica and iron oxide such as the product “Sunveil F” from Ikeda; silica and alumina such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide and “Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia,- alumina such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55(B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55(A)” from Ishihara and "UVT 14/4" from Kemira; - alumina and aluminium stearate such as the product
  • titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and of which the average size of the elemental particles is between 25 and 40 nm such as that sold under the trade name "T 805" by Degussa Silicas, TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and of which the average size of the elemental particles is 21 nm such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by Cardre, anatase/rutile TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and of which the average size of the elemental particles is 25 nm such as that sold under the trade name "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Tayca under the trade names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B", or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B", by Degussa under the name “P 25”, by Wacker under the name “Transparent Titanium Oxide PW” , by Miyoshi Kasei under the name “UFTR”, by Tomen under the name “ITS” and by Tioxide under the name "Tioveil AQ” .
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those sold under the name "Z-Cote” by Sunsmart; those sold under the name “Nanox” by Elementis; and - those sold under the name “Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies .
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example those sold under the name "Z-COTE HPl” by Sunsmart (dimethicone coated ZnO) ; those sold under the name “Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane) ; those sold under the name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in “Finsolv TN", benzoate of Ci 2 -Ci 5 alcohols); those sold under the name "Daitopersion ZN-30" and
  • the uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold, for example, under the name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone Poulenc .
  • the uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are, for example, sold by Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2002
  • the coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345", “Nanogard FE 45 BL” or by BASF under the name "Transparent Iron Oxide” .
  • the additional photoprotective agents are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain artificial tanning and/or browning agents for the skin (self-tanning agents) and more particularly dihydroxyacetone (DHA) . They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • artificial tanning and/or browning agents for the skin self-tanning agents
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • aqueous compositions conforming to the present invention may moreover comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or non- ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, demulcents, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti- foaming agents, fragrances, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants and basifying or acidifying agents, or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetics and/or dermatological field.
  • conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or non- ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, demulcents, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti- foaming agents, fragrances, preservatives, anionic,
  • the fatty substances may be composed of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined previously or mixtures thereof.
  • oil is understood to mean a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature.
  • wax is understood to mean a compound that is solid or substantially solid at ambient temperature, and of which the melting point is generally greater than 35 0 C.
  • oils mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil) ; synthetic oils such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name "Eldew SL-205" by Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as the benzoate of Ci 2 -Ci 5 alcohols sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN” by Witco, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 ® by ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by Cognis, oxyethylenated or
  • waxy compounds mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes such as that sold under the name "Cirebelle 303" by Sasol .
  • the lower polyols may be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol .
  • carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbopols (carbomers) and pemulens (acrylate/Ci O -C 3 o alkyl acrylate copolymers) ; polyacrylamides such as for example the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/Ci 3 _i 4 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/ polysorbate 80) by Seppic,- polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or
  • lipophilic thickeners mention may be made of synthetic polymers such as poly (Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl acrylates) sold under the name “Intelimer IPA 13-1" and “Intelimer IPA 13-6” by Landec or else modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products sold under the name “Bentone” .
  • synthetic polymers such as poly (Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl acrylates) sold under the name "Intelimer IPA 13-1" and “Intelimer IPA 13-6” by Landec or else modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products sold under the name “Bentone” .
  • active ingredients mention may be made of: - vitamins (C, K, PP, etc.) and their derivatives or precursors, alone or as mixtures; agents for combatting pollution and/or free- radical scavengers; depigmenting agents and/or propigmenting agents,- - anti-glycation agents,- soothing agents,-
  • NO- synthase inhibitors agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or that prevent their degradation; agents that stimulate fibroblast proliferation,- agents that stimulate keratinocyte proliferation,- myo relaxants; tensioning agents,- - mattifying agents,- keratolytic agents,- desquamating agents,- moisturisers,- anti- inflammatory agents,- - agents that act on the energy metabolism of cells,- insect repellents; substance P antagonists or CRGP antagonists; agents for preventing hair loss and/or for regrowth; and - anti-wrinkle agents.
  • compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques well known to a person skilled in the art. They may be, in particular in the form of a simple or complex (0/W, W/0, 0/W/O or W/O/W) emulsion such as a cream, a milk or a cream-gel; in the form of an aqueous gel; or in the form of a lotion. They may also be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of a foam or spray.
  • compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/0 or 0/W) .
  • the emulsions may also contain other types of stabilizers such as for example fillers, gelling polymers or thickeners.
  • emulsifying surfactants that can be used for preparing W/0 emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars,- silicone surfactants, for example dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "DC 5225 C” by Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name "Abil EM 9OR” by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate sold under the name "Abil WE 09" by Goldschmid
  • alkylated polyol esters mention may be made especially of polyethylene glycol esters, for example PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product sold under the name "Arlacel P135" by ICI.
  • glycerol and/or sorbitan esters mention may be made for example of polyglycerol isostearate such as the product sold under the name "Isolan GI 34" by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name “Arlacel 987” by ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol such as the product sold under the name “Arlacel 986” by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • emulsifiers for example as emulsifiers, of non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters,- oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters,- oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters such as the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example by ICI under the name "Arlacel 165",- oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers,- sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, especially alkylpolyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside sold, for example,
  • APGs alkylpoly
  • the mixture of alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in document WO-A-92/06778.
  • emulsion stabilizers use will more particularly be made of the polymers of isophthalic acid or sulphoisophthalic acid, and in particular phthalate/sulphoisophthalate/glycol copolymers, for example, the diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/
  • the aqueous phase of the latter may comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham,
  • compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, for the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or hair, and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.
  • compositions according to the invention for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular care products, sunscreen products and makeup products.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a makeup product.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a care product and/or sunscreen product for the face and/or the body, of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less rich creams, cream-gels or pastes. They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and may be in the form of a foam or spray.
  • compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions in accordance with the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles using pressurized devices.
  • the devices in accordance with the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and comprise non-aerosol pump-dispensers or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and also aerosol pump- dispensers that use compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in Patents US 4,077,441 and US 4,850,517 (forming an integral part of the content of the description) .
  • compositions packaged as an aerosol in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane . They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • 3-Aminopropylmethylbis (trimethylsiloxy) silane (5.25 g, 0.019 mol) solubilized in 10 ml of anhydrous dichloromethane, and then diisopropylethylamine (9.5 ml, 0.057 mol) were added dropwise thereto. After the solvent had been evaporated off under vacuum, the orangey oil obtained was taken up in 100 ml of ethyl acetate. After two washes of the organic phase with water and then with a saturated solution of sodium chloride, it was dried over sodium sulphate.
  • 3-Amino- propylmethylbis (trimethylsiloxy) silane (20.48 g, 0.0732 mol) solubilized in 40 ml of anhydrous acetonitrile, and then diisopropylethylamine (37 ml, 0.219 mol) were added dropwise thereto. After the solvent had been evaporated off under vacuum, the orangey oil obtained was taken up in 300 ml of ethyl acetate. After 2 washes of the organic phase with water and then with a saturated solution of sodium chloride, it was dried over sodium sulphate.
  • phase B The aqueous phase (phase B) containing all its ingredients was heated to 8O 0 C in a waterbath.
  • the fatty phase (phase A) containing all its ingredients was heated to 8O 0 C in a waterbath.
  • A was emulsified in B with rotor-stator stirring (apparatus from the company Moritz) .
  • Phase C was incorporated and the mixture was left to return to ambient temperature with moderate stirring.
  • the triethanolamine was introduced so as to adjust the pH to the desired value at the end of manufacture.
  • the sunscreen emulsions obtained are stable with respect to storage and do not exhibit any crystals or precipitates .

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) and more particularly to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low-solubility lipophilic active agent, in particular a low-solubility lipophilic organic screening agent, such as triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives or benzophenone derivatives. The present invention relates to the use of at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one lipophilic active agent as mentioned above, as solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase, and also for the purpose of improving the effectiveness of said lipophilic active agent and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of said composition. The present invention also relates to novel siloxane- containing arylalkyl benzoate amide compounds of formula (I).

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A SILOXANE-CONTAINING ARYLALKYL BENZOATE AMIDE DERIVATIVE; USE OF SAID DERIVATIVE AS SOLVENT IN OILS; NOVEL SILOXANE- CONTAINING ARYLALKYL BENZOATE ESTER OR AMIDE DERIVATIVES
The invention relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter .
It relates in particular to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , characterized in that it contains at least one liquid fatty phase and a low- solubility lipophilic active agent.
The present invention relates to the use of at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter, in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low- solubility lipophilic active agent, as solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase, and in particular as solvent for organic UV screening agents that are not readily soluble.
The present invention also relates to novel specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide compounds of formula (I) .
Many cosmetic or dermatological products are provided in various galenical forms comprising a liquid fatty phase, such as dispersions, oily lotions, oil/water, water/oil or multiple emulsions, or cream gels. Certain cosmetic or dermatological active agents that are particularly advantageous, such as lipophilic organic screening agents that are not readily soluble in the oily phase of these formulations, have a tendency, during storage, to form crystals or to precipitate, in particular in emulsions. Such phenomena are undesirable from the point of view of stability of the formulation and/or with respect to consumer comfort insofar as they can destabilize the composition and/or affect the aesthetic appearance of the product and/or lead to cosmetic discomfort upon application to the skin and/or the hair, or else to the concentration of active agents being limited in these formulas, which means that products that are sufficiently effective cannot be obtained.
This is the case in particular of care formulations containing low-solubility lipophilic active agents such as the active agents chosen from aminophenol derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, 2-amino-4- alkylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide derivatives, in particular
2-amino-4-dodecylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide, DHEA
(dehydroepiandrosterone) , chemical derivatives and precursors thereof, such as 7 -hydroxy- or 7-keto-DHEA, or else 3β-acetoxy-7-keto-DHEA, cholesterol and esters thereof, plant sterols such as phytosterols and sitosterols and esters thereof, pentacyclic triterpene acids, hydroxystilbenes, isoflavonoids, lipophilic organic UV screening agents with low solubility in antisun formulations, retinol and derivatives thereof, carotenoids such as lycopene, and also fragrances, essential oils, hormones, vitamins, in particular vitamin E, ceramides, or mixtures thereof.
In particular, antisun compositions are often in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, of gels or of anhydrous products which contain, at various concentrations, one or more lipophilic and/or hydrophilic, insoluble and/or soluble, organic and/or inorganic screening agents, capable of selectively absorbing harmful UV radiation. These screening agents and the amounts thereof are selected according to the desired protection factor. Depending on whether they are lipophilic or, conversely, hydrophilic in nature, the screening agents can distribute, respectively, either into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase of the final composition.
It is found that, among the various screening agents proposed, certain organic UV screening agents are particularly advantageous, for instance s-triazine derivatives, since they are highly active in the UV-B range and the UV-A range depending on the substituents grafted onto the triazine ring, and generally exhibit good photostability .
Among the various UVA screening agents proposed, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4-(tert- butyl) -4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane, and benzophenone derivatives, such as benzophenone-3 , are particularly advantageous because they are highly active in the UV-A range .
Despite everything, their photoprotective power when formulated is quite limited in the usual cosmetic carriers containing oils, such as oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty (mono/poly) alcohols ("Cetiol HE" from Henkel or "Witconol APM" from Witco) or else fatty esters such as Ci2-Ci5 alkyl benzoate ("Finsolv TN" from Finetex) , or amino acid derivatives ("Eldew SL205" from Ajinomoto), because the solubility of these screening agents in these commonly used oils is insufficient. The result of this is: either the appearance over time of crystallization in the formulas, which is detrimental to the good quality, stability and effectiveness of the antisun products; or the fact that the concentration of screening agents in the formulas has to be limited, thereby making it impossible to obtain sufficiently effective products. There exists therefore the need to find novel solvents for effectively dissolving lipophilic active agents with low solubility in the oils in the carriers of cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing them, without the drawbacks listed above.
Now, the applicant has just discovered, surprisingly, a new family of effective solvents consisting of specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate ester or amide derivatives of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter, which makes it possible to achieve this objective. These compounds can be incorporated into many cosmetic products.
This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter.
The present invention relates in particular to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate ester or amide derivative of formula
(I) , characterized in that it contains at least one liquid fatty phase and a low-solubility lipophilic active agent.
The present invention also relates to the use of at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) , the definition of which will be given hereinafter, in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low-solubility lipophilic active agent, as solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase, and in particular as sole solvent for said active agent.
The present invention also relates to the use of at least one derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low- solubility lipophilic active agent, for the purpose of improving the effectiveness of said active agent and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of said composition.
The present invention also relates to the use of at least one derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low- solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agent, for the purpose of improving the sun protection factor and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of this composition.
The present invention also relates to novel specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate amide compounds of formula (I) .
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent upon reading the detailed description which follows.
The term "cosmetically acceptable" is intended to mean compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, smell and feel and which does not generate any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness, redness) that may dissuade the consumer from using this composition.
For the purpose of the present invention, the term "liquid fatty phase" is intended to mean a fatty phase which is liquid at ambient temperature (250C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) , composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature, also known as oils, and that are compatible with one another.
The term "lipophilic active agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological active agent capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or else of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example, in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
The term "low-solubility lipophilic active agent" is intended to mean a lipophilic active agent which, at ambient temperature and in its preferred concentration range as specified below, has a phase that is insoluble in the oily phase of the composition, which limits its bioavailability and thus impairs the effectiveness of the composition.
The siloxane-containing arylalkyl amide derivatives in accordance with the invention are chosen from those corresponding to general formula (I) below:
Figure imgf000007_0001
(I) in which :
- Ri is a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl radical,
- p is 0 - 2, - m is 0 - 4, - X is -N(R2) -,
- R2 is H, a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl, the acetyl group or the -CH2CH2NH(C=O)Ph group,
- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl radical, a C6-Ci2 aryl radical, 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl , trimethylsilyloxy, or a linear or branched Ci-Ci0 alkoxy group, a = 1 - 2 ,
B is a divalent radical chosen from the group corresponding to one of the following formulae (II) , (III) and (IV) :
-CH2-CH-(Z),- (II) W
CH=CH-(Z)-
CH0
-(Z)- (IV)
in which:
Z is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical,
W represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical, v is 0 or 1.
In addition to the units of formula -B-(Si) (R) a (0) (3-a)/2/ the organosiloxane can contain units of formula (R)b-(Si) (0) <4-b)/2 in which:
R has the same meaning as in formula (I) defined above , b = 2-3.
Preferably, the - (Si) (R) a (0) (3-a)/2 groups can be represented by formula (V) or (VI) below:
Figure imgf000008_0001
or
Figure imgf000009_0001
in which :
(E) is the link between the silicone chain and group B of the compound of formula (I) as defined above,
R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl, phenyl, 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl and trimethylsilyloxy radicals, at least 80% by number of the R3 radicals being methyl,
(D), which may be identical or different, are chosen from R3 radicals and the (E) radical, r is an integer between 0 and 200 inclusive, and s is an integer between 0 and 50 inclusive, and, if s = 0, at least one of the two symbols (D) denotes B, u is an integer between 1 and 10 inclusive, and t is an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, it being understood that t+u is greater than or equal to 3, with the proviso that, when q is 1, then u is equal to 1, s is equal to 1 and the symbol (D) cannot denote B, or s is equal to 0 and only one of the symbols (D) denotes B.
In formulae (I) to (VI), among the alkyl groups, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, 2-ethylhexyl, dodecyl or hexadecyl groups.
The linear or cyclic diorganosiloxanes of formula (V) or (VI) which fall within the context of the present invention are random oligomers or polymers preferably having at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:
- R3 is preferably methyl, - (D) is preferably methyl (in the case of linear compounds of formula (V) ) . By way of examples of particularly preferred compounds of formula (I) , mention will be made of the following compounds of formulae (a) to (k) :
Figure imgf000010_0001
Figure imgf000010_0002
The compounds of formula are novel, with the exception of: (1) the alkyl amide acyl ester derivative (compound c) , having the formula below, described in application EP220693 :
Figure imgf000011_0001
(2) the compound having the formula below, described in Example 2 of patent US2929829:
Figure imgf000011_0002
These compounds constitute another subject of the invention. Among the novel specific compounds, mention may be made of the following compounds:
Figure imgf000012_0001
Figure imgf000012_0002
Figure imgf000012_0003
The amide derivatives of formula (I) with X = -NH- can be prepared by starting from the acid derivative of formula (VII) with in situ formation of the corresponding acid chloride which is reacted with the siloxane-containing amine derivative of formula (VIII) according to the following scheme: SOCI2
Figure imgf000013_0001
Figure imgf000013_0002
(ViIl) fi)
with the R, Ri, p, m, a and B radicals having the same meanings as above .
The SiH groups may be present in the chain and/or at the ends of the chain. These SiH-containing derivatives are well-known products in the silicone industry and are generally commercially available. They are, for example, described in United States Patents US 3220972, US 3697473 and US 4340709.
The derivatives of formula (I) in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the compositions of the invention at contents ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The derivative (s) of formula (I) in accordance with the invention is (are) preferably present in an amount sufficient to solubilize, by itself or by themselves (without it being necessary to use another solvent) , the total amount of active agent (s) not readily soluble that is (are) present in the composition.
According to the invention, the lipophilic active agents are of low solubility when they exhibit, at ambient temperature and in their preferred concentration range as specified below, a phase which is insoluble in the oily phase of the composition, which limits their bioavailability and thus impairs the effectiveness of the composition.
The low-solubility lipophilic active agents in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from aminophenol derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide derivatives, in particular 2-amino-4-dodecylamino- pyrimidine 3-oxide, DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone) , chemical derivatives and precursors thereof such as 7 -hydroxy- or 7-keto-DHEA, or else 3β-acetoxy-7-keto- DHEA, cholesterol and esters thereof, plant sterols such as phytosterols and sitosterols and esters thereof, pentacyclic triterpene acids, hydroxy- stilbenes, isoflavonoids, low-solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agents, retinol and derivatives thereof, carotenoids such as lycopene, and also fragrances, essential oils, hormones, vitamins, in particular vitamin E, ceramides, or mixtures thereof.
The aminophenol derivatives used are more particularly the derivatives of formula (I) below:
H
Figure imgf000014_0001
in which R' is a radical chosen from the group made up of the following radicals (a) , (b) and (c) :
(a) -CO-NR1R2
(b) -CO-O-R3
(c) -SO2R3 where R1 represents a hydrogen atom or an optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci to C6 alkyl radical,
R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a radical chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci2 to C30 alkyl radicals, which is optionally hydroxylated, and
R3 represents a radical chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, including condensed polycyclic, Ci2 to C30 alkyl radicals, which are optionally hydroxylated.
In formula (I) , among the linear or branched R2 or R3 radicals containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, mention may advantageously be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, tert-butyl, hexyl , octyl, nonyl , 2-ethylhexyl, dodecyl , hexadecyl , behenyl , octadecyl and 2-butyloctyl radicals. These radicals preferably contain from 1 to 12 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the alkyl radical generally contains from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. As lower alkyl radical, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl and hexyl radicals.
When it is unsaturated, a radical having one or more ethylenic unsaturations, such as more particularly the allyl radical, is preferred.
When the alkyl radical is cyclic, mention may in particular be made of the cyclohexyl, cholesteryl or tert-butylcyclohexyl radical.
When it is hydroxylated, the radical preferably contains from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups. Among monohydroxyalkyl radicals, a radical preferably containing 1 or 3 carbon atoms, in particular the hydroxymethyl , 2-hydroxyethyl , 2-hydroxypropyl or 3-hydroxypropyl radical is preferred.
Among polyhydroxyalkyl radicals, a radical containing from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and from 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups, such as the 2 , 3-dihydroxypropyl, 2 , 3 , 4-trihydroxybutyl , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5-tetrahydroxypentyl or 2, 3, 4, 5, 6-pentahydroxyhexyl radical is preferred.
The alkoxylated radicals are alkyl radicals, as in particular described above, preceded by an oxygen atom.
Preferably, the aminophenol derivatives used in the present application are those for which at least one and preferably all the conditions below are met: - the -OH function on the phenyl radical is in the ortho-position or, advantageously, in the para- position, - R' is chosen from a radical of formula (a) or (b) .
Among the linear or branched alkyl radicals R1, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert- butyl or hexyl radicals.
The aminophenol derivative preferably used in said composition is a para-aminophenol derivative; even more preferably, it is N-ethoxycarbonyl -4 -para-aminophenol of formula (Ia) :
Figure imgf000016_0001
or else N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl -4 -para-aminophenol of formula (Ib) :
Figure imgf000017_0001
These aminophenol derivatives, and the process for preparing them, are described in Patent Applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077.
These derivatives have a more or less long hydrocarbon- based, preferably alkoxycarbonyl , chain attached to the nitrogen atom. They have the drawback of being poorly, or even not at all, soluble in water or in the fatty phase of the type such as that used in the present application. Their introduction into cosmetic compositions requires, as regards the compounds with a short hydrocarbon-based chain, them to be solubilized in an aqueous-alcoholic solution, which is not always desirable when the composition is intended, for example, to be applied around the eyes.
As for the compounds with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, they are insoluble in oils, due to their steric hindrance, and have a tendency to recrystallize from water .
The compositions according to the present invention comprising such an aminophenol derivative can be used as a depigmenting or bleaching agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition. Preferably, these compositions will be used for treating regional hyperpigmentations caused by melanocyte hyperactivity, such as idiopathic melasmas which occur in the course of pregnancy ("pregnancy mask" or chloasma) or of oestroprogestative contraception, localized hyper- pigmentations caused by benign melanocyte proliferation and hyperactivity, such as senile pigmentation blemishes known as actinic lentigo, accidental hyperpigmentations or depigmentations, possibly caused by post-lesional cicatrization and photosensitization, and also certain leucodermias such as vitiligo.
The concentration of aminophenol derivatives of the composition according to the present invention is from 0.001% to 30%, more preferably from 0.001% to 15%, even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight. The amount of amino acid esters will depend on the amount of aminophenol derivatives to be solubilized and may be between 0.01% and 90% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The low-solubility salicylic acid derivatives are the derivatives of formula
COOH
Figure imgf000018_0001
in which: R"i represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula
-O-CO-R"4 in which R"4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, R"2 and R"3, independently of one another, are in the 3-, 4-, 5- or 6 -position on the benzene ring and represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a radical :
-(O)n-(CO)m-R"5
in which n and m, independently of one another, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1, provided that R"2 and R"3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms, and R"5 represents a hydrogen, a linear, branched or cyclized, saturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an unsaturated radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or unconjugated double bonds, it being possible for the radicals to be substituted with at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms
(fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine) , the following radicals: trifluoromethyl, hydroxyl in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms .
Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R"5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R"i represents a hydroxyl radical.
Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R"5 is in the 5-position on the benzene ring and R"2 represents a hydrogen atom.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the salicylic acid derivatives are derivatives of 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5- methsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-δ-methylsalicylic acid, 3 , 5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoyl- salicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and divalent salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
It is known practice to use salicylic acid derivatives in topical compositions, for example, as a keratolytic agent for treating acne or as an anti -ageing agent; Patent Applications FR-A-2 581 542 and EP-A-378 936 describe such derivatives.
Salicylic acid derivatives are highly advantageous in particular for preventing or repairing the principal manifestations of skin ageing, namely fine lines and wrinkles, disruption of the "grain" of the skin, modification of the complexion of the skin and loss of firmness and of tonicity of the skin. However, the use of these derivatives poses a problem insofar as, when they are introduced without modification into topical compositions, they do not solubilize and remain in the crystalline state, rendering the use of the composition containing them ineffective for the treatment of the skin.
Generally, these derivatives are solubilized in lower alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol, or solvents such as octyldodecanol, certain glycols, or short-chain (less than Ci2) fatty alcohols. However, these lower alcohols have the drawback of drying out and irritating the skin; it is therefore preferred to avoid using them in body and/or facial care products. In addition, these solubilizing agents can only be introduced in small amounts otherwise they may impair the cosmetic qualities (drying out of the skin) and the stability of the compositions containing them.
The concentration of salicylic acid derivatives of the composition according to the present invention is preferably from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of amino acid esters will depend on the amount of salicylic acid derivatives to be solubilized. It may be from 0.01% to 90% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention comprising at least one salicylic derivative can be used as a cosmetic or dermatological composition, and in particular for caring for, protecting, cleansing and/or making up keratin materials of human beings (skin, lips, keratin fibres such as the hair and eyelashes) , and in particular for combatting the signs of skin ageing and/or for smoothing facial and/or body skin and/or for treating wrinkles and fine lines of the skin and/or for stimulating the process of epidermal renewal and/or for depigmenting or bleaching the skin and/or for treating acne and/or for treating skin disorders.
The term "skin disorders" is intended to mean in particular zona, burns, eczema, demodicidosis, skin ulcers, fibrosis, control of cicatrizations, psoriasis, pruritis, dermatitis, ichtyosis, corns and warts.
The derivatives of the 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide family are the derivatives of general formula:
Figure imgf000022_0001
in which R4 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an -OR5 radical in which R5 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and also its acylated forms or its addition salts with acids.
Preferably, R4 is chosen from the group made up of hexyl , heptyl , octyl, nonyl , decyl , undecyl and dodecyl radicals .
Preferably, R5 is chosen from the group made up of ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl radicals.
More preferably, it is 2-amino-4-dodecylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide.
The derivatives of the 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3 -oxide family can in particular be used in or for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition in accordance with the present invention for preventing and treating problems associated with sensitive skin and skin disturbances such as skin discomfort, tautness of the skin, skin itching, skin swelling, redness of the skin and heat sensation of the skin.
Another family of molecules which comes under the definition of molecules with low water-solubility is DHEA, its derivatives and its chemical or metabolic precursors .
DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone, also known as 3-beta- hydroxyandrost-5-en-17-one, or dehydroisoandrosterone, but also trans-dehydroandrosterone or prasterone, has the formula:
Figure imgf000023_0001
The expression "DHEA precursors to which the invention relates" is intended to mean its biological precursors which are capable of being converted to DHEA during metabolism, and also its chemical precursors which can be converted to DHEA by exogenous chemical reaction.
Examples of biological precursors are Δ5 -pregnenolone, 17α-hydroxypregnenolone and 17α-hydroxypregnenolone sulphate without this list being limiting.
The expression "chemical precursors of DHEA" is intended to mean in particular saponins and their derivatives such as hecogenin ( (3beta, 5alpha, 23r)-3- hydroxyspirostan-12-one) and hecogenin acetate, diosgenin (5-spirosten-3beta-ol) , smilagenin and sarsapogenin, and also natural extracts containing them, in particular fenugreek and extracts of Dioscorea plants such as wild yam root, without this list being limiting .
The term "DHEA derivatives" is intended to mean both its metabolic derivatives and its chemical derivatives. As metabolic derivatives, mention may in particular be made of Δ5-androstene-3 , 17-diol, and in particular 5-androstene-3β, 17β-diol, Δ4-androstene-3 , 17-dione, 7 -hydroxy-DHEA (7α-hydroxy-DHEA or 7β -hydroxy-DHEA) and 7-keto-DHEA, which is itself a metabolite of 7β- hydroxy-DHEA, without this list being limiting. 7α-Hydroxy-DHEA is, with 5-androstene-3β, 17β-diol, a major metabolite of DHEA, obtained by the action of 7α-hydroxylase on DHEA. 7β -Hydroxy-DHEA is a minor metabolite of DHEA, obtained by the action of 7β -hydroxylase on DHEA.
The 7 -hydroxy-DHEA preferably used in the compositions according to the present invention is 7α-hydroxy-DHEA. A process for preparing this compound is described in Patent Applications FR 2 771 105 and WO 94/08688.
As chemical derivatives of DHEA, mention may also be made of DHEA salts, and in particular water-soluble salts such as DHEA sulphate,- DHEA esters such as esters of hydrocarboxylic acids and of DHEA, in particular those described in Patent US 5 736 537, or else DHEA salicylate, DHEA acetate, DHEA valerate (or n-heptanoate) and DHEA enanthate.
Mention may also be made of DHEA carbamates, 2 -hydroxy- malonate esters of DHEA and amino acid esters of DHEA. Finally, mention may be made of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA which can in particular be prepared as described in Patents US 5 869 709 and US 6 111 118. This list is obviously not limiting.
The concentration of DHEA-based compound in the composition according to the present invention can advantageously range from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20%, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. These compounds will be in solubilized form between 2O0C and 9O0C.
The expression "low-solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agent" is intended to mean any organic UV screening agent having a water-solubility of less than 0.1% by weight and a solubility of less than 15% by weight in most organic solvents, such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol® 812 sold by the company Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, realized at 7O0C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after a return to ambient temperature. It can be readily evaluated in the laboratory.
Among the low- solubility lipophilic organic screening agents used in the compositions of the invention, mention may in particular be made of: triazine derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; benzophenones .
The triazine derivatives may in particular be chosen from the 1 , 3 , 5-triazine derivatives of formula (2) below:
Figure imgf000025_0001
in which the Ai, A2 and A3 radicals, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the groups of formula (3) :
Figure imgf000025_0002
in which:
- Xa, which may be identical or different, represent oxygen or the -NH- radical;
- Ra, which may be identical or different, are chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a polyoxyethylenated radical comprising from 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and the terminal OH group of which is methylated; a radical of formula (4) , (5) or (6) below:
Figure imgf000026_0001
A'™~O CHrCH- (5)
Figure imgf000026_0002
in which:
- R4 is hydrogen or a methyl radical;
- R5 is a Ci-C9 alkyl radical; - q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3;
- r is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
- A' is a C4-C8 alkyl radical or a C5-C8 cycloalkyl radical;
- B' is chosen from: a linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical; a C5-C8 cycloalkyl radical; an aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals .
A first more particularly preferred family of 1 , 3 , 5-triazine derivatives, in particular described in document EP-A-O 517 104, is that of the 1 , 3 , 5-triazines corresponding to formula (2) in which Ai, A2 and A3 are of formula (3) and have the following characteristics:
- one of the Xa-Ra radicals represents the -NH-R3 radical with Ra chosen from: a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4) , (5) or (6) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical; - R5 is the methyl radical;
- the other two Xa-Ra represent the -0-Ra radical with Ra, which may be identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 radical; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which: - B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical;
- R5 is the methyl radical.
A second more particularly preferred family of 1, 3, 5-triazine derivatives, in particular described in document EP-A-O 570 838, is that of the 1 , 3 , 5-triazines corresponding to formula (2) in which Ai, A2 and A3 are of formula (3) and have all of the following characteristics :
- one or two Xa-Ra represent the -NH-R3 radical, with Ra chosen from: a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical; - R5 is the methyl radical; the other or the two other Xa-Ra being the -0-Ra radical with Ra, which may be identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical; - R5 is the methyl radical.
A particularly preferred 1 , 3 , 5-triazine of this second family is 2- [p-tert-butylamido) anilino] -4 , 6-bis [p- (2 ' - ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxycarbonyl) anilino] -1,3, 5-triazine or "Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone" sold under the trade name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V and corresponding to the formula below:
Figure imgf000028_0001
in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R" denotes a tert-butyl radical.
A third preferred family of compounds that can be used in the context of the present invention, and which is in particular described in document US 4,724,137, is that of the 1, 3 , 5-triazines corresponding to formula (2) in which A1, A2 and A3 are of formula (3) and have the following characteristics:
- Xa are identical and represent oxygen;
- Ra, which may be identical or different, represent a C6-Ci2 alkyl radical or a polyoxyethylenated radical comprising from 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and the terminal OH group of which is methylated.
A particularly preferred 1 , 3 , 5-triazine of this third family is 2 , 4 , 6-tris [p- (2 ' -ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxycarbonyl) - anilino] -1 , 3 , 5-triazine or "Ethylhexyl Triazone" sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul T 150" by the company BASF and corresponds to the formula below:
Figure imgf000029_0001
in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical.
Mention may also be made of the esters of benzal- malonate with s-triazine as described in Patent
Applications EP507691, EP507692, EP790243 and EP944624, and in particular the following compounds:
2,4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -6-butoxy- s-triazine, 2, 4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (2- ethylhexylamino) -s-triazine,
2 , 4-bis (4 ' -aminobenzylidenecamphor) -6- (2-ethylhexyl - amino) triazine,
2,4, 6 -bis (4' -aminobenzylidenecamphor) -6- (diisobutyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,
2,4, 6-tris (diethyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,
2,4, 6-tris (diisopropyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s- triazine, and more particularly 2 , 4 , 6-tris (diisobutyl 4'-amino- benzalmalonate) -s-triazine .
The triazine derivatives may also be chosen from the bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives, in accordance with the present invention, corresponding to formula (7) below:
Figure imgf000030_0001
in which: the R6 and R7 radicals, which may be identical or different, denote a C3-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical or else a residue of formula
-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-OTl where Tl is a hydrogen atom or a
Ci-C8 alkyl radical;
- A4 denotes a residue corresponding to one of the following formulae:
(12)
Figure imgf000030_0002
in which:
- R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ci0 alkyl radical, a radical of formula - (CH2CHRi0-0) niR9 where rii is an integer from 1 to 16, or else a residue of structure -CH2-CH- (OH) -CH2OTl with Tl having the same meaning indicated above,-
- R9 denotes hydrogen, a metal cation M, a Ci-C5 alkyl radical or a residue of formula -(CH2)m2-0Tl where m2 is an integer from 1 to 4 and Tl has the same meaning indicated above,-
- Rio is hydrogen or methyl;
- Qi is a Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical. In formulae (7) to (12) described above:
- the alkyl radicals are linear or branched and can be chosen, for example, from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, amyl , isoamyl, tert-amyl, heptyl , octyl, isooctyl, nonyl , decyl , undecyl , dodecyl , tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl or octadecyl;
- the alkenyl radicals can be chosen, for example, from allyl, methallyl, isopropenyl, 2-butenyl, 3-butenyl, isobutenyl, n-penta-2 , 4-dienyl , 3-methylbut-2-enyl , 2-n-octenyl, 2-n-dodecenyl , isododecenyl or 4-n-octa- decenyl ;
- the alkoxy radicals are linear or branched and can be chosen, for example, from methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy, sec-butoxy, tert-butoxy, amyloxy, isoamyloxy or tert-amyloxy;
- the Ci-C5 monoalkylamino or dialkylamino radicals can be chosen, for example, from methylamino, ethylamino, propylamino, n-butylamino, sec-butylamino, tert-butyl - amino, pentylamino, dimethylamino, diethylamino, dibutylamino or methylethylamino;
- the metal cations are alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations or metal cations chosen, for example, from lithium, potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, copper and zinc.
The bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives of formula (7) of the invention are screening agents already known per se. They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in Patent Application EP-A-0775 698.
By way of examples of compounds of formula (7) that can be used, mention may be made of:
- 2,4-bis{[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (4- methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine;
- 2 , 4-bis{ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2- hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine; - 2,4-bis{[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl } -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl)phenylamino] -1,3, 5-triazine; -2,4-bis{ [4- (2" -methylpropenyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine; - 2 , 4-bis{ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy] -2- hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [ (4-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] - 1,3, 5-triazine;
- 2,4-bis{ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (1- methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3, 5-triazine.
The compound derived from bisresorcinyltriazine that is more particularly preferred according to the invention will be the compound 2 , 4-bis{ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2- hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) sold under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by Ciba Geigy.
Among the dibenzoylmethane derivatives, mention may in particular be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of:
- 2-methyldibenzoylmethane,
- 4-methyldibenzoylmethane,
- 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane,
- 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, - 2 , 4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane,
- 2 , 5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane,
- 4,4' -diisopropyldibenzoylmethane,
- 4,4' -dimethoxydibenzoylmethane ,
- 4-tert-butyl-4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane, - 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane,
- 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane,
- 2 , 4 -dimethyl -4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane,
- 2 , 6 -dimethyl -4 -tert-butyl -4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane .
Among the dibenzoylmethane derivatives mentioned above, use will in particular be made of 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, sold under the name "Eusolex 8020" by the company Merck, and corresponding to the following formula :
Figure imgf000033_0001
Most particularly, it is preferred to use 4-(tert- butyl) -4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane or Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane sold under the trade name "Parsol 1789" by the company DSM Nutritional Products; this screening agent corresponds to the following formula:
Figure imgf000033_0002
Among the benzophenone derivatives that are not readily soluble for the purposes of the invention, mention may be made of : benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "Uvinul D50" by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade name
"Uvinul M40" by BASF, benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay, benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb
UV-24" by American Cyanamid, benzophenone- 12 , n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold under the name "Uvinul A+" by BASF.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, one or more low- solubility UV screening agents will be chosen as low-solubility lipophilic active agent for the purpose of the invention.
The low-solubility lipophilic UV screening agent (s) is (are) preferably present in the compositions at contents which are generally from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably at contents of from 0.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the derivative (s) of formula (I) in accordance with the invention is (are) used as sole solvent for said active agent (s) that is (are) not readily soluble.
Another subject of the invention consists of the use of at least one derivative of formula (I) as defined above, in a cosmetic or dermatological photoprotective composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low-solubility organic UV screening agent for the purpose of improving the sun protection factor and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of this composition.
The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise other additional organic or inorganic UV screening agents that are active in the UVA range and/or the UVB range and that are water-soluble or liposoluble or else insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional screening agents and/or the amounts thereof in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, impaired by the addition (s) envisaged. The additional organic photoprotective agents are in particular chosen from anthranilates ; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; hydrosoluble benzophenone derivatives β,β -diphenyl acrylate derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those mentioned in Patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives as described in Patents EP 669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in Applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893119; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described in particular in Application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in Patent Application DE 19855649; 4, 4-diarylbutadienes as described in Applications EP 0967200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP-A-1008586 , EP 1133980 and EP 133981 and mixtures thereof.
As examples of additional organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those denoted below under their INCI name:
Para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives:
PABA,
Ethyl PABA,
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold under the name "Escalol
507" by ISP,
Glyceryl PABA,
PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF,
Salicylic derivatives:
Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer, Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the name
"Dipsal" by Scher,
TEA Salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
Cinnamic derivatives:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann La Roche,
Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name
"Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer,
Cinoxate,
DEA Methoxycinnamate,
- Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, - Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate,
J3,]3-Diphenyl acrylate derivatives:
Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul N35" by BASF,
Hydrosoluble benzophenone derivatives
Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,
Benzophenone- 5 ,
Benzophenone- 9 sold under the trade name "Uvinul DS-
49" by BASF,
Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:
3-Benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex,
4 -Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name "Eusolex 6300" by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex,
Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex,
Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex,
Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives:
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232" by Merck, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer,
Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie,
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol , sold in solid form under the trade name "Mixxim BB/100" by Fairmount Chemical or in micronized form in an aqueous dispersion under the trade name "Tinosorb M" by Ciba Specialty Chemicals,
Anthranilic derivatives:
Methyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" Haarmann and Reimer,
Imidazoline derivatives:
Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline
Propionate,
Benzalmalonate derivatives:
Di-neopentyl 4' -methoxybenzalmalonate,
Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann La Roche,
4, 4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
- 1 , 1-dicarboxy- (2 , 2 ' -dimethylpropyl) -4 , 4-diphenyl- butadiene, and mixtures thereof .
Mention may also be made of the insoluble triazine screening agents trisubstituted with biphenyl or triphenyl groups, described in Patent US 6,225,467, Patent Application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 September 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6- tris (biphenyl -4 -yl) -1 , 3 , 5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris-
(terphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine) which are reiterated in
Patent Applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982,
WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007 and WO 2006/034992, WO 2006/034985.
The preferred additional organic photoprotective agents are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Homosalate,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Octocrylene,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Benzophenone-3 , Benzophenone-4 ,
Benzophenone- 5 , n-Hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate,
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol ,
Ethylhexyl triazone,
2,4,6-tris (biphenyl -4 -yl) -1,3, 5-triazine,
2, 4, 6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
Polysilicone- 15 ,
Di-neopentyl 4' -methoxybenzalmalonate,
1, 1-dicarboxy- (2, 2 ' -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenyl- butadiene, and mixtures thereof .
The inorganic photoprotective agents are chosen from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) such as, for example pigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form) , iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents well-known per se .
The pigments may be coated or uncoated.
The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminium) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate .
In a known manner, silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic structure, that are branched or crosslinked, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and composed for the main part by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are joined together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond) , optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
The term "silicones" also encompasses the silanes required for their preparation, in particular, alkylsilanes .
The silicones used for coating pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes . Even more preferably, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogensiloxanes .
Of course, the metal oxide pigments, prior to their treatment with silicones, may have been treated by other surface agents, in particular by cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminium compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: silica, such as the product "Sunveil" from Ikeda and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from Merck; silica and iron oxide such as the product "Sunveil F" from Ikeda; silica and alumina such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA" from Tayca, "Tioveil" from Tioxide and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia,- alumina such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55(B)" and "Tipaque TTO-55(A)" from Ishihara and "UVT 14/4" from Kemira; - alumina and aluminium stearate such as the product
"Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-Ol" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W", "Solaveil CT 100" and "Solaveil CT 200" from Uniqema,- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from Tayca; alumina and aluminium laurate such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from Tayca; iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from Tayca; zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR351" from Tayca; silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS" from Tayca; silica, alumina, aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS" from Titan Kogyo ; - silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-Titan X 195" from Kemira or the product "SMT-100 WRS" from Tayca; alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55(S)" from Ishihara or "UV Titan M 262" from Kemira; triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from Titan Kogyo ; stearic acid such as the product "Tipaque TTO- 55(C)" from Ishihara; and - sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" from Tayca.
Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and of which the average size of the elemental particles is between 25 and 40 nm such as that sold under the trade name "T 805" by Degussa Silicas, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and of which the average size of the elemental particles is 21 nm such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by Cardre, anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and of which the average size of the elemental particles is 25 nm such as that sold under the trade name "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Tayca under the trade names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B", or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B", by Degussa under the name "P 25", by Wacker under the name "Transparent Titanium Oxide PW" , by Miyoshi Kasei under the name "UFTR", by Tomen under the name "ITS" and by Tioxide under the name "Tioveil AQ" .
The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those sold under the name "Z-Cote" by Sunsmart; those sold under the name "Nanox" by Elementis; and - those sold under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies .
The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example those sold under the name "Z-COTE HPl" by Sunsmart (dimethicone coated ZnO) ; those sold under the name "Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane) ; those sold under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in "Finsolv TN", benzoate of Ci2-Ci5 alcohols); those sold under the name "Daitopersion ZN-30" and
"Daitopersion ZN-50" by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated cyclopolymethylsiloxane/polydimethyl- siloxane, containing 30% or 50% of nano zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane) ; those sold under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl -based copolymer as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane) ; - those sold under the name "SPD-Zl" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane) ; those sold under the name "Escalol ZlOO" by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methicone mixture) ; those sold under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-IO" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethyl- silsesquioxane) ; and those sold under the name "Nanox GEL TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed to 55% in the benzoate of Ci2-Ci5 alcohols with polycondensate of hydroxystearic acid) .
The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold, for example, under the name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide" by Rhone Poulenc .
The uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are, for example, sold by Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2002
(FE 45B)", "Nanogard IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard FE
45R AQ", "Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)" or by Mitsubishi under the name "TY-220" .
The coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45 BL 345", "Nanogard FE 45 BL" or by BASF under the name "Transparent Iron Oxide" .
Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal -weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by Ikeda under the name "Sunveil A", and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261" sold by Kemira or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol such as the product "M 211" sold by Kemira.
The additional photoprotective agents are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions according to the invention may also contain artificial tanning and/or browning agents for the skin (self-tanning agents) and more particularly dihydroxyacetone (DHA) . They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous compositions conforming to the present invention may moreover comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or non- ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, demulcents, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti- foaming agents, fragrances, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants and basifying or acidifying agents, or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetics and/or dermatological field.
The fatty substances may be composed of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined previously or mixtures thereof. The term "oil" is understood to mean a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature. The term "wax" is understood to mean a compound that is solid or substantially solid at ambient temperature, and of which the melting point is generally greater than 350C.
As oils, mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil) ; synthetic oils such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name "Eldew SL-205" by Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as the benzoate of Ci2-Ci5 alcohols sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by Witco, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by Cognis, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty esters and ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes or PDMSs) or fluoro oils, and polyalkylenes .
As waxy compounds, mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes such as that sold under the name "Cirebelle 303" by Sasol .
Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower polyols and alcohols. The lower polyols may be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol .
As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbopols (carbomers) and pemulens (acrylate/CiO-C3o alkyl acrylate copolymers) ; polyacrylamides such as for example the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/Ci3_i4 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/ polysorbate 80) by Seppic,- polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or "Simulgel 800" sold by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate/polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate) ; copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10 sold by Seppic, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof. As lipophilic thickeners, mention may be made of synthetic polymers such as poly (Ci0-C30 alkyl acrylates) sold under the name "Intelimer IPA 13-1" and "Intelimer IPA 13-6" by Landec or else modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products sold under the name "Bentone" .
Among the active ingredients mention may be made of: - vitamins (C, K, PP, etc.) and their derivatives or precursors, alone or as mixtures; agents for combatting pollution and/or free- radical scavengers; depigmenting agents and/or propigmenting agents,- - anti-glycation agents,- soothing agents,-
NO- synthase inhibitors; agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or that prevent their degradation; agents that stimulate fibroblast proliferation,- agents that stimulate keratinocyte proliferation,- myo relaxants; tensioning agents,- - mattifying agents,- keratolytic agents,- desquamating agents,- moisturisers,- anti- inflammatory agents,- - agents that act on the energy metabolism of cells,- insect repellents; substance P antagonists or CRGP antagonists; agents for preventing hair loss and/or for regrowth; and - anti-wrinkle agents.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will be sure to choose the optional additional compound or compounds mentioned above and/or their amounts so that the advantageous properties intrinsically linked to the compositions according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition or additions.
The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques well known to a person skilled in the art. They may be, in particular in the form of a simple or complex (0/W, W/0, 0/W/O or W/O/W) emulsion such as a cream, a milk or a cream-gel; in the form of an aqueous gel; or in the form of a lotion. They may also be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of a foam or spray.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/0 or 0/W) .
The emulsions may also contain other types of stabilizers such as for example fillers, gelling polymers or thickeners.
As emulsifying surfactants that can be used for preparing W/0 emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars,- silicone surfactants, for example dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name "Abil EM 9OR" by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate sold under the name "Abil WE 09" by Goldschmidt . It is possible to also add thereto one or more co-emulsifiers, which advantageously may be chosen from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters.
As alkylated polyol esters, mention may be made especially of polyethylene glycol esters, for example PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product sold under the name "Arlacel P135" by ICI.
As glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, mention may be made for example of polyglycerol isostearate such as the product sold under the name "Isolan GI 34" by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name "Arlacel 987" by ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol such as the product sold under the name "Arlacel 986" by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
For the 0/W emulsions, mention may be made, for example as emulsifiers, of non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters,- oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters,- oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters such as the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example by ICI under the name "Arlacel 165",- oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers,- sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, especially alkylpolyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names "Plantaren 2000" and "Plantaren 1200", cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example under the name "Montanov 68" by Seppic, under the name "Tegocare CG90" by Goldschmidt and under the name "Emulgade KE3302" by Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example, in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name "Montanov 202" by Seppic . According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in document WO-A-92/06778.
Among the other emulsion stabilizers, use will more particularly be made of the polymers of isophthalic acid or sulphoisophthalic acid, and in particular phthalate/sulphoisophthalate/glycol copolymers, for example, the diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/
1 , 4-cyclohexanedimethanol copolymer (INCI name: Polyester- 5) sold under the names "Eastman AQ polymer"
(AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) by Eastman Chemical.
When an emulsion is involved, the aqueous phase of the latter may comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham,
Standish and Watkins, J. MoI. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008) .
The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, for the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or hair, and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.
Another subject of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above, for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular care products, sunscreen products and makeup products.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a makeup product. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a care product and/or sunscreen product for the face and/or the body, of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less rich creams, cream-gels or pastes. They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and may be in the form of a foam or spray.
The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions in accordance with the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles using pressurized devices. The devices in accordance with the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and comprise non-aerosol pump-dispensers or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and also aerosol pump- dispensers that use compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in Patents US 4,077,441 and US 4,850,517 (forming an integral part of the content of the description) .
The compositions packaged as an aerosol in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane . They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples that illustrate the invention will now be given.
SYNTHESIS EXAMPLES
EXAMPLE 1: Preparation of N- (3-{l, 3, 3, 3- tetramethyl-1- [ (trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl}propyl) benzamide :
Figure imgf000051_0001
2 ml of oxalyl chloride (0.0228 mol) were added dropwise to a solution, cooled to O0C, of benzoic acid (2.32 g, 0.019 mol) in 20 ml of anhydrous dichloromethane and of 0.5 ml of DMF. The mixture was left to stir for 15 minutes at O0C and then for 3 hours at lab. temperature. The reaction mixture was concentrated under vacuum. The yellow solid obtained was solubilized in 20 ml of dichloromethane and cooled to O0C. 3-Aminopropylmethylbis (trimethylsiloxy) silane (5.25 g, 0.019 mol) solubilized in 10 ml of anhydrous dichloromethane, and then diisopropylethylamine (9.5 ml, 0.057 mol) were added dropwise thereto. After the solvent had been evaporated off under vacuum, the orangey oil obtained was taken up in 100 ml of ethyl acetate. After two washes of the organic phase with water and then with a saturated solution of sodium chloride, it was dried over sodium sulphate. After filtration and evaporation of the solvent, the orangey oil obtained was chromatographed on silica (eluent: heptane/EtOAc 95:5), to give 5.1 g (yield: 70%) of a pale yellow oil of the compound of Example 1.
EXAMPLE 2: Preparation of 3 -phenyl-N- (3-{l, 3, 3, 3- tetramethyl-1- [ (trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl}propyl) - propanamide :
Figure imgf000051_0002
7.7 ml of oxalyl chloride (0.0878 mol) were added dropwise to a solution, cooled to O0C, of 3-phenyl- propionic acid (11 g, 0.0732 mol) in 40 ml of anhydrous acetonitrile and of 1 ml of DMF. The mixture was left to stir for 15 minutes at O0C and then for 3 hours at lab. temperature. The reaction mixture was concentrated under vacuum. The orangey oil obtained was solubilized in 40 ml of acetonitrile and cooled to O0C. 3-Amino- propylmethylbis (trimethylsiloxy) silane (20.48 g, 0.0732 mol) solubilized in 40 ml of anhydrous acetonitrile, and then diisopropylethylamine (37 ml, 0.219 mol) were added dropwise thereto. After the solvent had been evaporated off under vacuum, the orangey oil obtained was taken up in 300 ml of ethyl acetate. After 2 washes of the organic phase with water and then with a saturated solution of sodium chloride, it was dried over sodium sulphate. After filtration and evaporation of the solvent, the orangey oil obtained was chromatographed on silica (eluent: heptane/EtOAc 95:5), to give 23 g (yield: 76%) of a yellow oil of the compound of Example 2.
FORMULATION EXAMPLES 3 to 6
The following formulations were prepared; the amounts are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Figure imgf000052_0001
Figure imgf000053_0001
Protocol :
The aqueous phase (phase B) containing all its ingredients was heated to 8O0C in a waterbath. The fatty phase (phase A) containing all its ingredients was heated to 8O0C in a waterbath. A was emulsified in B with rotor-stator stirring (apparatus from the company Moritz) . Phase C was incorporated and the mixture was left to return to ambient temperature with moderate stirring. The triethanolamine was introduced so as to adjust the pH to the desired value at the end of manufacture.
The sunscreen emulsions obtained are stable with respect to storage and do not exhibit any crystals or precipitates .

Claims

1. Composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one specific siloxane- containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative of formula (I) below:
Figure imgf000055_0001
(I) in which:
- Ri is a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl radical,
- p is 0 - 2, - m is 0 - 4,
- X is -N(R2) -,
R2 is H, a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl, the acetyl group or the -CH2CH2NH(C=O)Ph group,
- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl radical, a C6-Ci2 aryl radical, 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl, trimethylsilyloxy, or a linear or branched Ci-Ci0 alkoxy group, a = 1-2,
B is a divalent radical chosen from the group corresponding to one of the following formulae (II) , (III) and (IV) :
-CH2-CH-(Zk- (H) W
CH=CH-(Z)-
Figure imgf000055_0002
in which:
Z is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
Ci-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical,
W represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical, v is 0 or 1.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the compound of formula (I) also comprises units of formula (R)b- (Si) (0) (4-b)/2 in which:
R has the same meaning indicated in Claim 1, b = 2-3.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2 , in which, in formula (I), the -(Si) (R) a (0) <3-a)/2 groups are represented by formula (V) or (VI) below:
Figure imgf000056_0001
or
Figure imgf000056_0002
in which: (E) is the link between the silicone chain and group B in formula (I) ,
R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-C2O alkyl, phenyl,
3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl and trimethylsilyloxy radicals, at least 80% by number of the R3 radicals being methyl ,
(D), which may be identical or different, are chosen from R3 radicals and the (E) radical, r is an integer between 0 and 200 inclusive, and s is an integer between 0 and 50 inclusive, and, if s = 0, at least one of the two symbols (D) denotes B, u is an integer between 1 and 10 inclusive, and t is an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, it being understood that t+u is greater than or equal to 3, with the proviso that, when q is 1, then u is equal to 1, s is equal to 1 and the symbol (D) cannot denote B, or s is equal to 0 and only one of the symbols (D) denotes B.
4. Composition according to Claim 3, in which the linear or cyclic diorganosiloxane of formula (V) or (VI) is a random oligomer or polymer having at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics :
- R3 is preferably methyl,
- (D) is methyl.
5. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4 , in which the compound of formula (I) is chosen from the following compounds of formulae (a) to (k) :
b)
Figure imgf000057_0001
Figure imgf000058_0001
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate ester or amide derivative (s) of formula (I) is
(are) present at contents of from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6 , characterized in that it comprises at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low-solubility active agent .
8. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 , characterized in that the low-solubility lipophilic active agent is chosen from aminophenol derivatives; salicylic acid derivatives; 2-amino-4-alkylamino- pyrimidine 3 -oxide derivatives; DHEA (dehydroepiandro- sterone) and/or derivatives thereof and/or chemical precursors thereof; cholesterol and/or esters thereof; plant sterols and/or esters thereof; pentacyclic triterpene acids,- hydroxystilbenes,- isoflavonoids ,- lipophilic organic UV screening agents,- retinol and derivatives thereof; carotenoids,- fragrances; essential oils,- hormones; vitamins; ceramides,- or mixtures thereof .
9. Composition according to either one of Claims 7 and 8, in which the siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate ester or amide derivative (s) of formula (I) is (are) the only solvent for said active agent (s) .
10. Composition according to any one of Claims 7 to 9 , in which the active agent (s) is (are) chosen from low- solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agents.
11. Composition according to Claim 10, in which the low-solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agent (s) is (are) chosen from:
- triazine derivatives; - dibenzoylmethane derivatives;
- benzophenones .
12. Composition according to Claim 11, in which the triazine derivatives are chosen from the 1 , 3 , 5-triazine derivatives of formula (2) below:
Figure imgf000059_0001
in which the Ai, A2 and A3 radicals, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the groups of formula (3) :
Figure imgf000059_0002
in which: - Xa, which may be identical or different, represent oxygen or the -NH- radical;
- Ra, which may be identical or different, are chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a polyoxyethylenated radical comprising from 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and the terminal OH group of which is methylated; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) below:
Figure imgf000060_0001
A1- ~OCHΓCH- (5)
V4
B1 OCK-CH (6)
R4 in which: - R4 is hydrogen or a methyl radical;
- R5 is a Ci-C9 alkyl radical;
- q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3;
- r is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
- A' is a C4-C8 alkyl radical or a C5-C8 cycloalkyl radical;
- B' is chosen from: a linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical; a C5-C8 cycloalkyl radical; an aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals .
13. Composition according to Claim 12, in which the triazine derivatives of formula (2) are chosen from those for which Ai, A2 and A3 are of formula (3) and have all of the following characteristics: - one of the Xa-Ra radicals represents the -NH-Ra radical with Ra chosen from: a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4) , (5) or (6) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical;
- R5 is the methyl radical;
- the other two Xa-Ra represent the -0-Ra radical with Ra, which may be identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 radical; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical;
- R5 is the methyl radical.
14. Composition according to Claim 12, in which the triazine derivatives of formula (2) are chosen from those for which Ai, A2 and A3 are of formula (3) and have all of the following characteristics:
- one or two Xa-Ra represent the -NH-R3 radical, with Ra chosen from: a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical;
- R5 is the methyl radical; the other or the two other Xa-Ra being the -0-Ra radical with Ra, which may be identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (4), (5) or (6) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical;
- R5 is the methyl radical.
15. Composition according to Claim 14, in which the triazine derivative of formula (2) is 2-[p-(tert- butylamido) anilino] -4,6-bis[p-(2' -ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxy- carbonyl) anilino] -1 , 3 , 5-triazine corresponding to the formula below:
Figure imgf000062_0001
in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R" denotes a tert-butyl radical.
16. Composition according to Claim 12, in which the triazine derivatives of formula (2) are chosen from those for which Ai, A2 and A3 are of formula (3) and have all of the following characteristics: - the Xa radicals are identical and represent oxygen;
- Ra, which may be identical or different, represent a C6-Ci2 alkyl radical or a polyoxyethylenated radical comprising from 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and the terminal OH group of which is methylated.
17. Composition according to Claim 16, in which the triazine derivative of formula (2) is 2 , 4 , 6-tris [p- (2 ' - ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxycarbonyl) anilino] -1,3, 5-triazine corresponding to the formula below:
Figure imgf000063_0001
in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical.
18. Composition according to Claim 11, in which the triazine derivatives are chosen from esters of benzal- malonate with s-triazine.
19. Composition according to Claim 18, in which the triazine derivatives are chosen from the following compounds:
2,4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -6-butoxy- s-triazine,
2,4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (2- ethylhexylamino) -s-triazine, 2 , 4-bis (4 ' -aminobenzylidenecamphor) -6- (2-ethylhexyl - amino) triazine,
2,4, 6 -bis (4' -aminobenzylidenecamphor) -6- (diisobutyl
4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,
2,4, 6-tris (diethyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 2 , 4 , 6-tris (diisopropyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s- triazine,
2,4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4 ' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s- triazine .
20. Composition according to Claim 19, in which the triazine derivative is 2 , 4 , 6-tris (diisobutyl 4 '-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine.
21. Composition according to Claim 11, in which the triazine derivatives are chosen from the bisresorcinyl- triazine derivatives corresponding to formula (7; below:
Figure imgf000064_0001
in which: the R6 and R7 radicals, which may be identical or different, denote a C3-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical or else a residue of formula
-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-OTl where Tl is a hydrogen atom or a
Ci-C8 alkyl radical;
- A4 denotes a residue corresponding to one of the following formulae:
Figure imgf000064_0002
in which:
- R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ci0 alkyl radical, a radical of formula - (CH2CHRi0-0) niR9 where ni is an integer from 1 to 16, or else a residue of structure -CH2-CH- (OH) -CH2OTl with Tl having the same meaning indicated above,-
- R9 denotes hydrogen, a metal cation M, a Ci-C5 alkyl radical or a residue of formula -(CH2)m2-0Tl where m2 is an integer from 1 to 4 and Tl has the same meaning indicated above,-
- Rio is hydrogen or methyl;
- Qi is a Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical.
22. Composition according to Claim 21, in which the triazine derivatives of formula (7) are chosen from:
- 2,4-bis{[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (4- methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine; - 2, 4-bis{ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2- hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5 -triazine ;
- 2,4-bis{[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl } -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3, 5 -triazine ; -2,4-bis{ [4- (2"-methylpropenyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5 -triazine ;
- 2 , 4-bis{ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy] -2- hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [ (4 -ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] - 1,3, 5-triazine;
- 2,4-bis{[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (1- methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3, 5-triazine.
23. Composition according to Claim 22, in which the bisresorcinyltriazine derivative is the compound 2,4-bis{ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (4- methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine .
24. Composition according to Claim 11, in which the benzophenone derivatives that are not readily soluble are chosen from: benzophenone- 1, benzophenone-2 , benzophenone-3 , benzophenone- 6 , benzophenone- 8 , benzophenone- 12 , n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate .
25. Composition according to any one of Claims 11 to 24, in which the low-solubility lipophilic UV screening agent (s) is (are) present at contents ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably at contents of from 0.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains other additional organic or inorganic UV screening agents that are active in the UVA range and/or the UVB range and that are water-soluble or liposoluble or else insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.
27. Composition according to Claim 26, in which the additional organic photoprotective agents are chosen from anthranilates ; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; hydrosoluble benzophenone derivatives ; β,β-diphenyl acrylate derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene,- 4, 4-diarylbutadienes; insoluble triazine screening agents trisubstituted with biphenyl or triphenyl groups; and mixtures thereof.
28. Composition according to Claim 27, characterized in that the organic UV screening agents (s) is (are) chosen from the following compounds:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
Homosalate,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Benzophenone-4 ,
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol , 2, 4, 6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl) -1,3, 5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15,
Di-neopentyl 4' -methoxybenzalmalonate, 1 , 1-dicarboxy- (2 , 2 ' -dimethylpropyl) -4 , 4-diphenyl- butadiene, and mixtures thereof .
29. Composition according to Claim 28, characterized in that the additional inorganic photoprotective agents are coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments.
30. Composition according to Claim 30, characterized in that said pigments are chosen from coated or uncoated titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium or cerium oxides and mixtures thereof .
31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one artificial tanning and/or browning agent for the skin.
32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one adjuvant chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or non- ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, demulcents, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti- foaming agents, fragrances, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants and basifying or acidifying agents.
33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
34. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for manufacturing products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp.
35. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for the manufacture of care products for the skin, lips, nails, hair and/or scalp.
36. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for manufacturing makeup products.
37. Use of at least one specific siloxane-containing arylalkyl benzoate ester or amide derivative of formula (I) as defined in the preceding claims, in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one active agent as defined in the preceding claims, as solvent for said active agent in said liquid fatty phase, and in particular as sole solvent for said active agent.
38. Use of at least one derivative of formula (I) as defined above in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one lipophilic active agent as defined in the preceding claims, for the purpose of improving the effectiveness of said active agent and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of said composition.
39. Use of at least one derivative of formula (I) as defined above in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and at least one low-solubility lipophilic organic UV screening agent as defined in the preceding claims, for the purpose of improving the sun protection factor and/or the cosmetic qualities and/or the stability of this composition.
40. Siloxane-containing arylalkyl amide compound corresponding to general formula (I) below:
Figure imgf000069_0001
(I) in which:
- Ri is a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl radical, - p is 0 - 2,
- m is 0 - 4,
- X is -N(R2) -
- R2 is H, a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl, the acetyl group or the -CH2CH2NH(C=O)Ph group, - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl radical, a C6-Ci2 aryl radical, 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl, trimethylsilyloxy, or a linear or branched Ci-Ci0 alkoxy group, a = 1-2, B is a divalent radical chosen from the group corresponding to one of the following formulae (II) , (III) and (IV) :
CH2-CH-(Z)V- (II)
W
CH=CH-(Z)- (III)
Figure imgf000069_0002
in which:
Z is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
Ci-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical,
W represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical, v is 0 or 1; with the exception of the compound having the following formula:
Figure imgf000070_0001
and of the compound having the following formula:
Figure imgf000070_0002
41. Compound according to Claim 40, in which the compound of the formula (I) also comprises units of formula (R)b-(Si) (0) <4-b)/2 in which: R has the same meaning indicated in Claim 1, b = 2-3.
42. Compound according to Claim 40 or 41, in which, in formula (I), the - (Si) (R) a (0) (3-a)/2 groups are represented by formula (V) or (VI) below:
Figure imgf000070_0003
or
Figure imgf000071_0001
in which:
(E) is the link between the silicone chain and group B in formula (I) ,
R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-C2O alkyl, phenyl,
3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl and trimethylsilyloxy radicals, at least 80% by number of the R3 radicals being methyl ,
(D), which may be identical or different, are chosen from R3 radicals and the (E) radical, r is an integer between 0 and 200 inclusive, and s is an integer between 0 and 50 inclusive, and, if s = 0, at least one of the two symbols (D) denotes B, u is an integer between 1 and 10 inclusive, and t is an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, it being understood that t+u is greater than or equal to 3, with the proviso that, when q is 1, then u is equal to 1, s is equal to 1 and the symbol (D) cannot denote B, or s is equal to 0 and only one of the symbols (D) denotes B.
43. Compound according to Claim 42, in which the linear or cyclic diorganosiloxane of formula (V) or (VI) is a random oligomer or polymer having at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics :
- R3 is preferably methyl,
- (D) is methyl.
44. Compound according to any one of Claims 40 to 43, in which the compound of formula (I) is chosen from the following compounds of formulae (a) , (b) , and (d) to (k) :
Figure imgf000072_0001
Figure imgf000072_0002
(e)
Figure imgf000072_0003
PCT/EP2007/061996 2006-11-27 2007-11-07 Cosmetic compositions containing a siloxane- containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivative; use of said derivative as solvent in oils; novel siloxane- containing arylalkyl benzoate amide derivatives WO2008064979A2 (en)

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