WO2008047248A2 - Aqueous delivery system for water-insoluble materials - Google Patents

Aqueous delivery system for water-insoluble materials Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008047248A2
WO2008047248A2 PCT/IB2007/004264 IB2007004264W WO2008047248A2 WO 2008047248 A2 WO2008047248 A2 WO 2008047248A2 IB 2007004264 W IB2007004264 W IB 2007004264W WO 2008047248 A2 WO2008047248 A2 WO 2008047248A2
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composition
chosen
esters
water
fatty
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PCT/IB2007/004264
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French (fr)
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WO2008047248A3 (en
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Nghi Van Nguyen
Sawa Hashimoto
David W. Cannel
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from US11/583,255 external-priority patent/US20080095727A1/en
Priority claimed from US11/583,284 external-priority patent/US7955606B2/en
Priority claimed from US11/583,238 external-priority patent/US20080096781A1/en
Priority claimed from US11/583,431 external-priority patent/US20080096782A1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2008047248A2 publication Critical patent/WO2008047248A2/en
Publication of WO2008047248A3 publication Critical patent/WO2008047248A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/556Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262Transparent; Translucent

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a novel aqueous system based on a specific combination of compounds, wherein the aqueous system allows water-insoluble materials to be incorporated into aqueous solutions.
  • water-insoluble ingredients which are oftentimes desirable for the treatment of keratinous substrates are inherently difficult to incorporate into aqueous systems such as shampoos and conditioners without forming a traditional emulsion in either cream or lotion form. Moreover, many of these water-insoluble ingredients suppress lathering which makes the use of aqueous systems such as shampoos and body washes less desirable to consumers. Even in those aqueous systems which do employ these types of water-insoluble ingredients, their presence is minimal due to various performance drawbacks such as poor spreadability, foaming, removal and rinsing or, in the case of styling products, difficulties in removal via shampooing. [003] Also, when formulating clear aqueous delivery systems for use in treating keratinous substrates, water-insoluble compounds do not lend themselves to being used therein, due to their inability to significantly associate with the water present in the system.
  • At least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from: polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof;
  • the present invention is drawn to a process for treating a keratinous substrate by contacting the substrate with a composition as disclosed herein.
  • all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about”.
  • water-insoluble means those compounds which are either completely or partially insoluble in water, and, more precisely, which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0, 5% by weight.
  • the term “carried” means that the aqueous delivery system containing the water-insoluble ingredients is both homogeneous and clear to substantially clear in appearance.
  • "At least one" as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations .
  • Conditioning means imparting to at least one keratinous fiber at least one property chosen from combability, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in) .
  • "Formed from,” as used herein, means obtained from chemical reaction of, wherein “chemical reaction,” includes spontaneous chemical reactions and induced chemical reactions.
  • the phrase “formed from” is open ended and does not limit the components of the composition to those listed, e.g., as component (i) and component (ii) .
  • the phrase “formed from” does not limit the order of adding components to the composition or require that the listed components (e.g., components (i) and (ii) ) be added to the composition before any other components.
  • Hydrocarbons include alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes, wherein the alkanes comprise at least one carbon, and the alkenes and alkynes each comprise at least two carbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, branched hydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the hydrocarbon chain.
  • Silicone compound includes, for example, silica, silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes; and refers to a compound comprising at least one silicon atom; wherein the silicone compound may be chosen from linear silicone compounds, branched silicone compounds, and cyclic silicone compounds; further wherein the silicone compound may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the silicone compound may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the silicone chain, wherein the at least one heteroatom is different from the at least one silicon atom.
  • Substituted, means comprising at least one substituent.
  • Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
  • the substituent (s) may be further substituted.
  • Keratinous substrate as defined herein preferably refers to human keratinous fiber, and may be chosen from, for example, hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, as well as the stratum corneum of the skin and nails.
  • aqueous composition of the present invention enables water-insoluble materials or ingredients to be carried by the composition and yet provide a clear to substantially clear appearance. Surprisingly, the use of an alcohol is not required in order to render the composition clear to substantially clear in appearance.
  • composition of the invention is easy to formulate and gentle on the hair, skin, or eyelashes because the surfactants used therein are generally mild.
  • the composition of the present invention readily delivers water-insoluble ingredients to the targeted keratinous substrate. Accordingly, this composition can be used in the formulation of hair shampoos, conditioners, deep treatments, hair dyeing compositions, including oxidative dyes and bleaches, permanent waving compositions, curl relaxing compositions, hair setting compositions, bath and body products, sunscreens, cosmetics, skin moisturizers, and the like, all of which are homogeneous and clear to substantially clear in appearance. [0021] The composition can also be used to deliver active water-insoluble pharmaceutical ingredients, particularly in topical applications. Such systems could further help protect against oxidation and rancidity by protecting sensitive ingredients in pharmaceuticals or foods.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyamine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention comprises at least three amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least four amino groups, such as greater than four amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least five amino groups, such as greater than five amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least six amino groups, such as greater than six amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least ten amino groups, such as greater than ten amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from aminated polysaccharides comprising at least three amino groups, such as, for example, hydrolysates of aminated polysaccharides comprising greater than three amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from polymers.
  • Suitable polymers are polymers comprising at least three amino groups as defined herein. Non-limiting examples of suitable polymers include homopolymers comprising at least three amino groups, copolymers comprising at least three amino groups, and terpolymers comprising at least three amino groups.
  • suitable polymers include, for example, polymers comprising at least three amino groups formed from (i) at least one monomer unit comprising at least one amino group as defined herein, and, optionally, (ii) at least one additional monomer unit different from the at least one monomer (i); and polymers comprising at least three amino groups formed from (i) at least one monomer comprising at least three amino groups as defined herein, and, optionally, (ii) at least one additional monomer unit different from the at least one monomer (i) .
  • the at least one additional monomer different from the at least one monomer (i) may or may not comprise at least one amino group as defined herein.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from polyamines.
  • polyamine refers to a polymercomprising at least three repeating units, wherein each unit comprises at least one amino group as defined herein.
  • polyamines are chosen from polyethyleneimines.
  • Polyethyleneimines suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may optionally be substituted.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyethyleneimines which may be used in the composition according to the present invention are the LupasolTM products commercially available from BASF.
  • Suitable examples of LupasolTM polyethyleneimines include LupasolTM PS, Lupasol PL, LupasolTM PR8515, LupasolTM G20, LupasolTM G35 as well as LupasolTM SC® Polythyleneimine Reaction Products (such as LupasolTM SC- ⁇ lB®, LupasolTM SC-62J®, and LupasolTM SC-86X®) .
  • Other non-limiting examples of polyethyleneimines which may be used in the composition according to the present invention are the EpominTM products commercially available from Aceto.
  • Suitable examples of EpominTM polyethyleneimines include EpominTM SP-006, EpominTM SP-012, EpominTM SP-018, and EpominTM P-1000.
  • Polyamines suitable for use in the present invention may also be chosen from polyvinylamines. Examples of commercially available suitable polyvinylamines include Lupamines ® 9095, 9030, 9010, 5095, 1595 sold by BASF.
  • polyamine compounds can also be substituted.
  • An example of such a compound is PEG-15 Cocopolyan ⁇ ine, sold by example by Cognis.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least three amino groups chosen from proteins and protein derivatives.
  • suitable proteins and protein derivatives for use in the present invention include those listed at pages 1701 to 1703 of the CT. F. A. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 8 th edition, vol.2, (2000) .
  • Suitable protein include in particular wheat protein, soy protein, oat protein, collagen, and keratin protein.
  • the composition of the present invention does not comprise proteins and protein derivatives.
  • the composition of the present invention does not comprise compounds comprising lysine, compounds comprising arginine, and compounds comprising histidine.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least three amino groups, chosen from compounds comprising lysine, compounds comprising arginine, compounds comprising histidine, and compounds comprising hydroxylysine .
  • the fatty monoamine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention are monoamine compounds which contain at least one hydrocarbon group having from ⁇ to 22 carbon atoms. Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty monoamines are useful. Particularly preferred are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachnidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoeth
  • dimethylstearamine dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, hydroxylated, ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty amines such as ethoxylated stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine .
  • Further fatty monoamine compounds useful in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055.
  • the fatty quaternary amine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention are quaternary amine compounds containing at least one long chain alkyl group.
  • Such long chain alkyl group preferably has from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the anion of the quaternary ammonium compound can be a common ion such as chloride, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, bromide, lactate, nitrate, phosphate, or tosylate and mixtures thereof.
  • the long chain alkyl groups can include additional or replaced carbon or hydrogen atoms or ether linkages.
  • fatty quaternary ammonium compounds include but are not limited to: behentrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, cethethyldimonium bromide, dibehenyldimonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow benzylmonium chloride, disoyadimonium chloride, ditallowdimonium chloride, hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl tallowdimonium chloride, myristalkonium chloride, PEG-2 oleamonium chloride, PEG-5
  • the phospholipids useful in the compositions of the present invention include in particular lecithins.
  • Lecithins are mixtures of phospholipids, i.e., diglycerides of fatty acids linked to an ester of phosphoric acid.
  • lecithins are diglycerides of stearic, palmitic, and oleic acids linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid.
  • Lecithin is usually defined either as pure phosphatidyl cholines or as crude mixtures of phospholipids which include phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl inositol, other phospholipids, and a variety of other compounds such as fatty acids, triglycerides, sterols, carbohydrates, and glycolipids.
  • the lecithin used in the present invention may be present in the form of a liquid, a powder, or granules.
  • Lecithins useful in the invention include, but are not limited to, soy lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.
  • ALCOLEC S which is a fluid soy lecithin
  • ALCOLEC F 100 which is a powder soy lecithin
  • ALCOLEC Z3 which is a hydroxylated lecithin, all of which are available from the American Lecithin Company.
  • multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids manufactured by Uniqema Industries may be useful: cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID PTC), sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID CDM), stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID SV) , sodium borageamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID GLA), and linoleamidopropyl PG- dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID EFA) .
  • a preferred multifunctional biomimetic phospholipid in the present invention is linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate.
  • the at least one nitrogen-containing compound is preferably present in a total amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are those having a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of from 8 to 20.
  • HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
  • Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are those disclosed for example in McCutcheon's "Detergents and Emulsifiers, " North American Edition (1986) , published by Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon's "Functional Materials," North American Edition (1992); both of which are incorporated by reference herein.
  • nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the fatty alkyl chain is in the C 8 to C 50 range, preferably in the Ci 2 to C 50 range, preferably in the Ci 6 to C 40 range, more preferably in the C 2 4 to C 4 o range, and having from 1 to 110 alkoxy groups.
  • the alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C ? to C ⁇ alkyl oxides and their mixtures, with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferred alkoxides.
  • the alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated.
  • the alkoxylated non-ionic surfactants the alkoxylated fatty alcohols are preferred, and the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and propoxylated alcohols are more preferred.
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be used alone or in mixtures thereof.
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohols may also be used in mixtures with those alkoxylated materials disclosed herein-above.
  • ethoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3), laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 23), ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , steareth-10 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , and steareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 2), steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 100), beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5), beheneth-10 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation
  • Brij® nonionic surfactants sold by Uniqema, Wilmington, DE.
  • Brij® surfactants are the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethylene oxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol being typically a linear chain and having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij 72 (i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij 76 (i.e., Steareth-10).
  • alkyl (poly) glycosides which are the condensation products of long chain alcohols, preferably alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with sugar or starch polymers.
  • S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, and R is a Cs to C 3 0 alkyl group.
  • long chain alcohols from which the R alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like.
  • Preferred examples of these surfactants are alkyl (poly) glucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a Ce to C20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from 1 to 9.
  • Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG® 600CS and 625 CS) , all the above-identified polyglucosides are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa.
  • sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.
  • glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids including but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C 16 -C 22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of C 16 -C 22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl monoesters preferably glyceryl monoesters of C 16 -C 22 saturated,
  • sorbitan esters of fatty acids are also useful herein as nonionic surfactants.
  • sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 80 by the company Uniqema) , sorbitan sesquioleate (sold for example under the name Arlacel® 83 by the company Uniqema, Wilmington DE) , sorbitan monoisostearate (sold for example under the name CRILL® 6 by the company Croda, Inc., Edison, N.J.), sorbitan stearates (sold for example under the name SPAN® 60 by the company Uniqema) , sorbitan trioleate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 85 by the company Uniqema) , sorbitan tristearate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 65 by the company Uniqema) , sorbitan dipalmitates (sold for example under the name SPAN® 40 by the company Uniqema), and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan monooleate
  • alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds are alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: glyceryl esters of fatty acids, sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and alkyl (poly) glycosides, wherein the alkoxy groups is selected from the group consisting of C 2 -Ce alkyl oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials being preferred.
  • Nonlimiting examples of commercially available ethoxylated sorbitan esters include the products sold under the name TWEEN® by the company Uniqema and which are ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C 12 to Ci ⁇ fatty acids with an average degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20.
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are those formed from a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, or a glyceride having a C 4 to C 36 carbon chain, preferably a C 12 to Ci ⁇ carbon chain, more preferably a Ci 6 to Ci ⁇ carbon chain, derivatized to yield an HLB of at least 8.
  • HLB is understood to mean the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant.
  • Such derivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates, polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates, polysorbates, and others that would be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art.
  • Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above, such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where the total HLB is preferably greater than or equal to 8.
  • the nonionic surfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from 10-25, more preferably from 10-20 moles.
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is preferably present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from greater than 0 to 70% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention contains at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters.
  • phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters.
  • alkoxylated alkyl phosphate ester is chosen from mono-esters and their salts, di- esters and their salts, tri-esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such phosphate ester is preferably chosen from :
  • R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms ; u, v and w, independently of one another, each represent a number of from 0 to 60; x, y and z, independently of one another, each represent a number of from 0 to 13;
  • R' represents hydrogen or an alkyl group. The sum of x+y+z is equal or greater than 0.
  • the numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. Whereas, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on a macroscopic level they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.
  • R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a linear or branched, acyclic C 6 _ 40 alkyl or alkenyl group or a Ci- 40 alkyl phenyl group, more particularly a Cs-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4- 18 alkyl phenyl group, more preferably a C 1 2-18 alkyl group or alkenyl group or a Ce-ie alkyl phenyl group/ u, v, w, independently of one another, each preferably represent a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from
  • x, y, z independently of one another, each preferably represent a number from 2 to 13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a number from 0 to 8.
  • R group of the phosphate ester the more irritating to the skin and the less soluble in water the phosphate ester becomes.
  • R group the milder to the skin and the thicker and more waxy the resultant product becomes. Accordingly, for best results, R should preferably have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters is advantageously present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from greater than 0% to 30% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, more preferably from greater than 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in the present invention are PPG-5-ceteth-lO phosphate (sold for example under the name CRODAFOS SG ® by the company Croda), oleth-3 phosphate (sold for example under the name CRODAFOS N3 acid by the company Croda) , oleth-10 phosphate (sold for example under the name CRODAFOS NlO acid by the company Croda) , ceteth-10 phosphate, dicetyl phosphate (ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate being sold for example as a mixture under the name CRODAFOS CES by the company Croda) , and mixtures thereof.
  • PPG-5-ceteth-lO phosphate sold for example under the name CRODAFOS SG ® by the company Croda
  • oleth-3 phosphate sold for example under the name CRODAFOS N3 acid by the company Croda
  • alkyl phosphate esters are cetyl phosphate (sold for example under the name Hostaphat CC 100 by the company Clariant) , and stearyl phosphate (sold for example under the name Hostaphat CS 120 by the company Clariant) , and mixtures thereof.
  • a homogeneous and clear to substantially clear aqueous composition can be formed capable of carrying up to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water-insoluble compounds.
  • Suitable water-insoluble compounds for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, the following: [0056] (1) Lipophilic compounds such as silicones, oil-soluble vitamins such as Vitamin E and Vitamin A, sunscreens, ceramides and natural oils.
  • the lipophilic compounds may be in the form of sunscreens, bacteriostats, moisturizers, colors, topical pharmaceuticals and the like.
  • Preferred lipophilic compounds include: Vitamin E, Vitamin E Acetate, Vitamin A Palmitate, olive oil, mineral oil, 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecanediol, octylmethoxy cinnamate, octyl salicylate, and silicones such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, aminosilicone and laurylmethicone copolyol.
  • the lipophilic compounds will, for example, moisturize or condition the skin, hair, and/or eyelashes and leave behind no oily feel.
  • Preferred water-insoluble compounds for use in the present invention include silicones ranging from low molecular weight fluids to high molecular weight gums/ hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffins, iso-paraffins, aromatic hydrocarbons, and the like; natural oils such as plant oils such as olive, avocado, coconut, and the like; synthetic oils; fatty acids; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; fatty waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones ranging from low molecular weight fluids to high molecular weight gums/ hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffins, iso-paraffins, aromatic hydrocarbons, and the like; natural oils such as plant oils such as olive, avocado, coconut, and the like; synthetic oils; fatty acids; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; fatty waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • the water-insoluble compounds may be employed in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably from greater than 0 to 20% by weight, most preferably from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition can contain additional ingredients such as for example anionic surfactants, organic salts, inorganic salts, proteins, hair dyes, water-soluble polymers, quaternary ammonium compounds, complex and simple carbohydrates, amino acids, preservatives and fragrances.
  • additional ingredients such as for example anionic surfactants, organic salts, inorganic salts, proteins, hair dyes, water-soluble polymers, quaternary ammonium compounds, complex and simple carbohydrates, amino acids, preservatives and fragrances.
  • the process for making the composition of the invention involves introducing the at least one nitrogen-containing compound, the at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one phosphate ester, and the at least one water-insoluble compound to an aqueous solution to form a diluted mixture.
  • Heat may be optionally introduced at any stage of the preparation of the mixture and the final diluted mixture is allowed to cool.
  • the aqueous delivery system obtained can carry a high load (i.e., 50% by weight is considered a high load) of the water-insoluble compound.
  • the composition may further contain proteins including hydrolyzed soy protein, lauryldimonium hydrolyzed soy protein (cationic Soya protein) and wheat amino acids.
  • the proteins could also include corn, wheat, milk, or silk proteins, collagens, keratins, or others.
  • taurine and arginine hydrochloride may be associated therein to maximize protein binding to the keratinous substrate.
  • Cationic proteins or proteins in general may be stabilizers for the aqueous delivery system and enhance its delivery by changing the charge of the aqueous delivery system. The skin and the hair attract cationic ingredients, and proteins are generally substantive to these tissues.
  • cationic polymers such as polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium ⁇ , polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, and polyquaternium 32
  • cationic conditioners such as quaternium 27, behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl tallowdimonium chloride, hexadimethrine chloride, stearalkonium chloride, and cetrimonium chloride
  • isoparaffins sodium chloride
  • propylene glycol preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, and propylparaben
  • pH adjusters such as phosphoric acid, humectants such as trehalose, and emollients such as octyldodecanol.
  • composition of the present invention may be in the form of shampoos, conditioners (rinse-off and leave-in), deep treatments for hair, body washes, bath gels, hair dyeing compositions, permanent wave formulations, relaxers, make-up preparations, particularly mascara and foundation, and skin creams or lotions.
  • Another embodiment of the present invention is drawn to a process for treating a keratinous substrate comprising contacting the keratinous substrate with an aqueous composition as described above. After such contacting step, the composition may optionally be removed, for example by rinsing.
  • the keratinous substrate includes but is not limited to, hair, skin, or eyelashes.
  • the term "treating" in the context of this invention includes, but is not limited to, shampooing, conditioning, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing, setting, moisturizing, and making-up, for example, applying mascara or foundation.
  • the present invention also concerns a personal care composition such as for example a shampoo, a conditioning composition, a dyeing composition, a bleaching composition, a permanent waving composition, a relaxing composition, a setting composition, a moisturizing composition, a making-up composition, comprising the composition as described above.
  • a personal care composition such as for example a shampoo, a conditioning composition, a dyeing composition, a bleaching composition, a permanent waving composition, a relaxing composition, a setting composition, a moisturizing composition, a making-up composition, comprising the composition as described above.
  • Such personal care composition shall then contain additional classical ingredients known from the man skilled in the art, and which depend on the use thereof.
  • composition of the present invention is particularly advantageous when used in shampoos, conditioners, and deep treatments for hair which has been treated, e.g., with color (dye or bleach) or chemicals (permanent wave or straightening), or hair which is dry or fine.
  • the present invention further includes a method for incorporating into an aqueous composition at least one water- insoluble compound, wherein a combination of the at least following compounds is used:
  • At least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from: polyarcvine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof;
  • Such a method allows to obtain a water-insoluble material containing aqueous composition which remains homogeneous and clear.
  • Example 1. a
  • Procetyl AWS is a nonionic surfactant (PPG-5-ceteth-20) .
  • Crodafos SG is an alkoxylated alkyl ester phosphate (PPG-5- ceteth-10 phosphate) .
  • the following system with hydrocarbons as water- insoluble compounds was made using the General Procedure above.
  • the system contains polyethyleneimine (PEI), a non- ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), an alkyl ether phosphate (Crodafos N3A) and hydrocarbon (mineral oil).
  • PEI polyethyleneimine
  • Procetyl AWS non- ionic surfactant
  • Crodafos N3A alkyl ether phosphate
  • hydrocarbon mineral oil
  • the following clear system with hydrocarbons as water-insoluble compounds was made using the General Procedure above.
  • the system contains polyethyleneimine (PEI), a non- ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), an alkyl phosphate ester (cetyl phosphate) and hydrocarbons (mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) .
  • PEI polyethyleneimine
  • Procetyl AWS non- ionic surfactant
  • cetyl phosphate cetyl phosphate
  • hydrocarbons mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco
  • Lexamine S-13 from Inolex is a tertiary fatty amine (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) .
  • the complete system as shown in column A, is a clear system. It remains clear when diluted with water indefinitely. If one or two ingredients from the mixture (fatty amine, nonionic surfactant, or phosphate ester) are removed from the formula, as shown in columns B to G, the mixtures are no longer clear; they are hazy and remain hazy when diluted with water.
  • This example illustrates the necessity of having all three components (fatty amine, nonionic surfactant, and phosphate ester) in order for the system to carry olive oil, and to still remain clear upon dilution with water.
  • Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodaf os N3A Phenyltrimethicone (1%) (30%) (0.5% (4%)
  • Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodaf os NlOA Phenyltrimethicone (1%) (30%) (0.5% (4%)
  • Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodaf os SG Phenyltrimethicone (1%) (30%) (0.5% (4%)
  • the lecithin used in all examples 3 is sold by the company American Lecithin.
  • the complete system is a clear system. It remains clear when diluted with water indefinitely. If one or two ingredients (lecithin, nonionic surfactant, or phosphate ester) are removed from the formula, as shown in columns B to G, the mixtures are no longer clear; they are hazy and remain hazy when diluted with water.
  • This example illustrates the necessity of having all three components (lecithin, nonionic surfactant, and phosphate ester) , in order for the system to carry olive oil, and to still remain clear upon dilution with water.
  • Genamin KDMP from Clariant is behentrimonium chloride.
  • This example illustrates the necessity of having all three components (quaternary fatty amine, nonionic surfacant, and phosphate ester) in order for the system to carry olive oil, and to still remain clear upon dilution with water.

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Abstract

The present invention is drawn to an aqueous composition containing: (a) at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from: polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant; (c) at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters; and (d) at least one water-insoluble compound. The composition is both homogeneous, and clear to substantially clear in appearance.

Description

AQUEOUS DELIVERY SYSTEM FOR WATER-INSOLUBLE MATERIALS
[001] The present invention relates to a novel aqueous system based on a specific combination of compounds, wherein the aqueous system allows water-insoluble materials to be incorporated into aqueous solutions.
[002] Certain water-insoluble ingredients which are oftentimes desirable for the treatment of keratinous substrates are inherently difficult to incorporate into aqueous systems such as shampoos and conditioners without forming a traditional emulsion in either cream or lotion form. Moreover, many of these water-insoluble ingredients suppress lathering which makes the use of aqueous systems such as shampoos and body washes less desirable to consumers. Even in those aqueous systems which do employ these types of water-insoluble ingredients, their presence is minimal due to various performance drawbacks such as poor spreadability, foaming, removal and rinsing or, in the case of styling products, difficulties in removal via shampooing. [003] Also, when formulating clear aqueous delivery systems for use in treating keratinous substrates, water-insoluble compounds do not lend themselves to being used therein, due to their inability to significantly associate with the water present in the system.
[004] Thus, there remains a need for an aqueous delivery system which can carry water-insoluble materials while remaining both homogeneous and clear to substantially clear in appearance. [005] In order to achieve these and other advantages, the present invention is drawn to an aqueous composition containing:
(a) at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from: polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant;
(c) at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters; and
(d) at least one water-insoluble compound. [006] In another embodiment, the present invention is drawn to a process for treating a keratinous substrate by contacting the substrate with a composition as disclosed herein. [007] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about". [008] The term "water-insoluble" means those compounds which are either completely or partially insoluble in water, and, more precisely, which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0, 5% by weight.
[009] The term "carried" means that the aqueous delivery system containing the water-insoluble ingredients is both homogeneous and clear to substantially clear in appearance. [0010] "At least one" as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations .
[0011] "Conditioning" as used herein means imparting to at least one keratinous fiber at least one property chosen from combability, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in) . [0012] "Formed from," as used herein, means obtained from chemical reaction of, wherein "chemical reaction," includes spontaneous chemical reactions and induced chemical reactions. As used herein, the phrase "formed from", is open ended and does not limit the components of the composition to those listed, e.g., as component (i) and component (ii) . Furthermore, the phrase "formed from" does not limit the order of adding components to the composition or require that the listed components (e.g., components (i) and (ii) ) be added to the composition before any other components.
[0013] "Hydrocarbons," as used herein, include alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes, wherein the alkanes comprise at least one carbon, and the alkenes and alkynes each comprise at least two carbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, branched hydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the hydrocarbon chain.
[0014] "Silicone compound," as used herein, includes, for example, silica, silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes; and refers to a compound comprising at least one silicon atom; wherein the silicone compound may be chosen from linear silicone compounds, branched silicone compounds, and cyclic silicone compounds; further wherein the silicone compound may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the silicone compound may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the silicone chain, wherein the at least one heteroatom is different from the at least one silicon atom. [0015] "Substituted, " as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent (s) may be further substituted.
[0016] "Keratinous substrate" as defined herein preferably refers to human keratinous fiber, and may be chosen from, for example, hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, as well as the stratum corneum of the skin and nails.
[0017] "Polymers," as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers. [0018] Advantageously, the aqueous composition of the present invention enables water-insoluble materials or ingredients to be carried by the composition and yet provide a clear to substantially clear appearance. Surprisingly, the use of an alcohol is not required in order to render the composition clear to substantially clear in appearance.
[0019] The composition of the invention is easy to formulate and gentle on the hair, skin, or eyelashes because the surfactants used therein are generally mild.
[0020] The composition of the present invention readily delivers water-insoluble ingredients to the targeted keratinous substrate. Accordingly, this composition can be used in the formulation of hair shampoos, conditioners, deep treatments, hair dyeing compositions, including oxidative dyes and bleaches, permanent waving compositions, curl relaxing compositions, hair setting compositions, bath and body products, sunscreens, cosmetics, skin moisturizers, and the like, all of which are homogeneous and clear to substantially clear in appearance. [0021] The composition can also be used to deliver active water-insoluble pharmaceutical ingredients, particularly in topical applications. Such systems could further help protect against oxidation and rancidity by protecting sensitive ingredients in pharmaceuticals or foods.
[0022] The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
[0023] The polyamine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention comprises at least three amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least four amino groups, such as greater than four amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least five amino groups, such as greater than five amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least six amino groups, such as greater than six amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least ten amino groups, such as greater than ten amino groups.
[0024] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from aminated polysaccharides comprising at least three amino groups, such as, for example, hydrolysates of aminated polysaccharides comprising greater than three amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from polymers. Suitable polymers are polymers comprising at least three amino groups as defined herein. Non-limiting examples of suitable polymers include homopolymers comprising at least three amino groups, copolymers comprising at least three amino groups, and terpolymers comprising at least three amino groups. Thus, suitable polymers include, for example, polymers comprising at least three amino groups formed from (i) at least one monomer unit comprising at least one amino group as defined herein, and, optionally, (ii) at least one additional monomer unit different from the at least one monomer (i); and polymers comprising at least three amino groups formed from (i) at least one monomer comprising at least three amino groups as defined herein, and, optionally, (ii) at least one additional monomer unit different from the at least one monomer (i) . According to the present invention, the at least one additional monomer different from the at least one monomer (i) may or may not comprise at least one amino group as defined herein.
[0025] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from polyamines. As used herein, the term "polyamine" refers to a polymercomprising at least three repeating units, wherein each unit comprises at least one amino group as defined herein. In one embodiment, polyamines are chosen from polyethyleneimines. Polyethyleneimines suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may optionally be substituted. Non-limiting examples of polyethyleneimines which may be used in the composition according to the present invention are the Lupasol™ products commercially available from BASF. Suitable examples of Lupasol™ polyethyleneimines include Lupasol™ PS, Lupasol PL, Lupasol™ PR8515, Lupasol™ G20, Lupasol™ G35 as well as Lupasol™ SC® Polythyleneimine Reaction Products (such as Lupasol™ SC-βlB®, Lupasol™ SC-62J®, and Lupasol™ SC-86X®) . Other non-limiting examples of polyethyleneimines which may be used in the composition according to the present invention are the Epomin™ products commercially available from Aceto. Suitable examples of Epomin™ polyethyleneimines include Epomin™ SP-006, Epomin™ SP-012, Epomin™ SP-018, and Epomin™ P-1000. [0026] Polyamines suitable for use in the present invention may also be chosen from polyvinylamines. Examples of commercially available suitable polyvinylamines include Lupamines ® 9095, 9030, 9010, 5095, 1595 sold by BASF.
[0027] The polyamine compounds can also be substituted. An example of such a compound is PEG-15 Cocopolyanαine, sold by example by Cognis.
[0028] In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least three amino groups chosen from proteins and protein derivatives. Non-limiting examples of suitable proteins and protein derivatives for use in the present invention include those listed at pages 1701 to 1703 of the CT. F. A. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 8th edition, vol.2, (2000) . Suitable protein include in particular wheat protein, soy protein, oat protein, collagen, and keratin protein. [0029] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not comprise proteins and protein derivatives. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not comprise compounds comprising lysine, compounds comprising arginine, and compounds comprising histidine. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least three amino groups, chosen from compounds comprising lysine, compounds comprising arginine, compounds comprising histidine, and compounds comprising hydroxylysine . [0030] The fatty monoamine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention are monoamine compounds which contain at least one hydrocarbon group having from β to 22 carbon atoms. Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty monoamines are useful. Particularly preferred are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachnidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide . Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, hydroxylated, ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty amines such as ethoxylated stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine . Further fatty monoamine compounds useful in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055.
[0031] The fatty quaternary amine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention are quaternary amine compounds containing at least one long chain alkyl group. Such long chain alkyl group preferably has from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. The anion of the quaternary ammonium compound can be a common ion such as chloride, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, bromide, lactate, nitrate, phosphate, or tosylate and mixtures thereof. The long chain alkyl groups can include additional or replaced carbon or hydrogen atoms or ether linkages. Other substitutions on the quaternary nitrogen can be hydrogen, benzyl or short chain alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or combinations thereof. [0032] Examples of fatty quaternary ammonium compounds include but are not limited to: behentrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, cethethyldimonium bromide, dibehenyldimonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow benzylmonium chloride, disoyadimonium chloride, ditallowdimonium chloride, hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl tallowdimonium chloride, myristalkonium chloride, PEG-2 oleamonium chloride, PEG-5 stearmonium chloride, PEG-15 cocoyl quaternium 4, PEG-2 stearalkonium 4, lauryltrimonium chloride; quaternium-16/ quaternium-18, lauralkonium chloride, olealkonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-β, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, cetyl trimonium chloride, dilauryldimonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, soyatrimonium chloride, stearyl octyl dimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate (18-MEA), stearalkonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Other quaternary ammonium compounds are listed in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, First Edition, on pages 41-42, incorporated herein by reference.
[0033] The phospholipids useful in the compositions of the present invention include in particular lecithins. Lecithins are mixtures of phospholipids, i.e., diglycerides of fatty acids linked to an ester of phosphoric acid. Preferably, lecithins are diglycerides of stearic, palmitic, and oleic acids linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid. Lecithin is usually defined either as pure phosphatidyl cholines or as crude mixtures of phospholipids which include phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl inositol, other phospholipids, and a variety of other compounds such as fatty acids, triglycerides, sterols, carbohydrates, and glycolipids. [0034] The lecithin used in the present invention may be present in the form of a liquid, a powder, or granules. Lecithins useful in the invention include, but are not limited to, soy lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin. Corresponding commercial products are for example, ALCOLEC S which is a fluid soy lecithin, ALCOLEC F 100 which is a powder soy lecithin, and ALCOLEC Z3 which is a hydroxylated lecithin, all of which are available from the American Lecithin Company.
[0035] Other than lecithins, additional examples of phospholipids which may be useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids. For example, the following multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids manufactured by Uniqema Industries may be useful: cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID PTC), sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID CDM), stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID SV) , sodium borageamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID GLA), and linoleamidopropyl PG- dimonium chloride phosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID EFA) . A preferred multifunctional biomimetic phospholipid in the present invention is linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate. [0036] In the compositions of the present invention, the at least one nitrogen-containing compound is preferably present in a total amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0037] The composition of the present invention also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant. Preferred nonionic surfactants are those having a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of from 8 to 20. Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are those disclosed for example in McCutcheon's "Detergents and Emulsifiers, " North American Edition (1986) , published by Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon's "Functional Materials," North American Edition (1992); both of which are incorporated by reference herein.
[0038] Examples of nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the fatty alkyl chain is in the C8 to C50 range, preferably in the Ci2 to C50 range, preferably in the Ci6 to C40 range, more preferably in the C24 to C4o range, and having from 1 to 110 alkoxy groups. The alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C? to Cδ alkyl oxides and their mixtures, with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferred alkoxides. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated. Of these alkoxylated non-ionic surfactants, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols are preferred, and the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and propoxylated alcohols are more preferred. The alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be used alone or in mixtures thereof. The alkoxylated fatty alcohols may also be used in mixtures with those alkoxylated materials disclosed herein-above.
[0039] Other representative examples of such ethoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3), laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 23), ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , steareth-10 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , and steareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 2), steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 100), beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5), beheneth-10 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), and other derivatives and mixtures of the preceding.
[0040] As examples of commercially available ethoxylated fatty alcohols are the Brij® nonionic surfactants sold by Uniqema, Wilmington, DE. Typically, Brij® surfactants are the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethylene oxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol being typically a linear chain and having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij 72 (i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij 76 (i.e., Steareth-10).
[0041] Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are alkyl (poly) glycosides, which are the condensation products of long chain alcohols, preferably alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)n-O-R wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, and R is a Cs to C30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the R alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of these surfactants are alkyl (poly) glucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a Ce to C20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from 1 to 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG® 600CS and 625 CS) , all the above-identified polyglucosides are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa. Also useful herein are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.
[0042] Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention are glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, including but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are sorbitan esters of fatty acids. Preferable are sorbitan esters of Ci6-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids. Because of the manner in which they are typically manufactured, these sorbitan esters usually comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 80 by the company Uniqema) , sorbitan sesquioleate (sold for example under the name Arlacel® 83 by the company Uniqema, Wilmington DE) , sorbitan monoisostearate (sold for example under the name CRILL® 6 by the company Croda, Inc., Edison, N.J.), sorbitan stearates (sold for example under the name SPAN® 60 by the company Uniqema) , sorbitan trioleate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 85 by the company Uniqema) , sorbitan tristearate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 65 by the company Uniqema) , sorbitan dipalmitates (sold for example under the name SPAN® 40 by the company Uniqema), and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate are particularly preferred nonionic surfactants for use in the present invention.
[0044] Also suitable for use herein as nonionic surfactants are alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: glyceryl esters of fatty acids, sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and alkyl (poly) glycosides, wherein the alkoxy groups is selected from the group consisting of C2-Ce alkyl oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials being preferred. Nonlimiting examples of commercially available ethoxylated sorbitan esters include the products sold under the name TWEEN® by the company Uniqema and which are ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C12 to Ciβ fatty acids with an average degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20.
[0045] Preferred nonionic surfactants are those formed from a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, or a glyceride having a C4 to C36 carbon chain, preferably a C12 to Ciβ carbon chain, more preferably a Ci6 to Ciβ carbon chain, derivatized to yield an HLB of at least 8. HLB is understood to mean the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. Such derivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates, polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates, polysorbates, and others that would be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art. Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above, such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where the total HLB is preferably greater than or equal to 8. Preferably the nonionic surfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from 10-25, more preferably from 10-20 moles. [0046] The at least one nonionic surfactant is preferably present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from greater than 0 to 70% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [0047] The composition of the present invention contains at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters. Such (alkoxylated) alkyl phosphate ester is chosen from mono-esters and their salts, di- esters and their salts, tri-esters, and mixtures thereof. [0048] Such phosphate ester is preferably chosen from :
- mono-esters corresponding to formula (I) and salts thereof:
RO[CH2 O]u[ (CH2)χCH(R') (CH2)y(CH2)z O]V[CH2CH2 0]w- PO-(OH)2
(D
- di-esters corresponding to formula (II) and salts thereof:
{RO[CH2 O]u[(CH2)χCH(R') (CH2)y(CH2)s O]V[CH2CH2 O]W}2PO-(OH)
(II)
- tri-esters corresponding to formula (III) :
(RO[CH2 O]u[ (CHo)χCH(R') (CH2)y(CH2)z O]V[CH2CH2 O]W}3PO
(HI)
- and combinations thereof, wherein:
R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms ; u, v and w, independently of one another, each represent a number of from 0 to 60; x, y and z, independently of one another, each represent a number of from 0 to 13;
R' represents hydrogen or an alkyl group. The sum of x+y+z is equal or greater than 0.
[0049] The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. Whereas, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on a macroscopic level they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.
[0050] Preferably, in formulas (I), (II) and (III) above:
R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a linear or branched, acyclic C6_40 alkyl or alkenyl group or a Ci-40 alkyl phenyl group, more particularly a Cs-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-18 alkyl phenyl group, more preferably a C12-18 alkyl group or alkenyl group or a Ce-ie alkyl phenyl group/ u, v, w, independently of one another, each preferably represent a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from
3 to 17 and most preferably a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of one another, each preferably represent a number from 2 to 13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a number from 0 to 8.
[0051] In general, the lower the number of carbon atoms in the
R group of the phosphate ester, the more irritating to the skin and the less soluble in water the phosphate ester becomes. In contrast, the higher the number of carbon atoms in the R group, the milder to the skin and the thicker and more waxy the resultant product becomes. Accordingly, for best results, R should preferably have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0052] The at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters is advantageously present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from greater than 0% to 30% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, more preferably from greater than 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0053] Particularly preferred alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in the present invention are PPG-5-ceteth-lO phosphate (sold for example under the name CRODAFOS SG® by the company Croda), oleth-3 phosphate (sold for example under the name CRODAFOS N3 acid by the company Croda) , oleth-10 phosphate (sold for example under the name CRODAFOS NlO acid by the company Croda) , ceteth-10 phosphate, dicetyl phosphate (ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate being sold for example as a mixture under the name CRODAFOS CES by the company Croda) , and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate esters are cetyl phosphate (sold for example under the name Hostaphat CC 100 by the company Clariant) , and stearyl phosphate (sold for example under the name Hostaphat CS 120 by the company Clariant) , and mixtures thereof.
[0054] It has surprisingly been found that by combining at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof, with at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one phosphate ester, a homogeneous and clear to substantially clear aqueous composition can be formed capable of carrying up to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water-insoluble compounds.
[0055] Suitable water-insoluble compounds for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, the following: [0056] (1) Lipophilic compounds such as silicones, oil-soluble vitamins such as Vitamin E and Vitamin A, sunscreens, ceramides and natural oils. The lipophilic compounds may be in the form of sunscreens, bacteriostats, moisturizers, colors, topical pharmaceuticals and the like. Preferred lipophilic compounds include: Vitamin E, Vitamin E Acetate, Vitamin A Palmitate, olive oil, mineral oil, 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecanediol, octylmethoxy cinnamate, octyl salicylate, and silicones such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, aminosilicone and laurylmethicone copolyol. The lipophilic compounds will, for example, moisturize or condition the skin, hair, and/or eyelashes and leave behind no oily feel. [0057] (2) Water-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes, wherein the polymers and resins include but are not limited to those containing carboxyl moieties, such as acrylates and other carboxy polymers.
[0058] (3) mixtures of the above-mentioned compounds. [0059] Preferred water-insoluble compounds for use in the present invention include silicones ranging from low molecular weight fluids to high molecular weight gums/ hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffins, iso-paraffins, aromatic hydrocarbons, and the like; natural oils such as plant oils such as olive, avocado, coconut, and the like; synthetic oils; fatty acids; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; fatty waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0060] The water-insoluble compounds may be employed in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably from greater than 0 to 20% by weight, most preferably from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0061] The composition can contain additional ingredients such as for example anionic surfactants, organic salts, inorganic salts, proteins, hair dyes, water-soluble polymers, quaternary ammonium compounds, complex and simple carbohydrates, amino acids, preservatives and fragrances.
[0062] The process for making the composition of the invention involves introducing the at least one nitrogen-containing compound, the at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one phosphate ester, and the at least one water-insoluble compound to an aqueous solution to form a diluted mixture. Heat may be optionally introduced at any stage of the preparation of the mixture and the final diluted mixture is allowed to cool. Preferably, the aqueous delivery system obtained can carry a high load (i.e., 50% by weight is considered a high load) of the water-insoluble compound.
[0063] The composition may further contain proteins including hydrolyzed soy protein, lauryldimonium hydrolyzed soy protein (cationic Soya protein) and wheat amino acids. The proteins could also include corn, wheat, milk, or silk proteins, collagens, keratins, or others. Furthermore, taurine and arginine hydrochloride may be associated therein to maximize protein binding to the keratinous substrate. Cationic proteins or proteins in general may be stabilizers for the aqueous delivery system and enhance its delivery by changing the charge of the aqueous delivery system. The skin and the hair attract cationic ingredients, and proteins are generally substantive to these tissues.
[0064] Other optional ingredients include cationic polymers, such as polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium β, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, and polyquaternium 32, cationic conditioners, such as quaternium 27, behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl tallowdimonium chloride, hexadimethrine chloride, stearalkonium chloride, and cetrimonium chloride, isoparaffins, sodium chloride, propylene glycol, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, and propylparaben, pH adjusters such as phosphoric acid, humectants such as trehalose, and emollients such as octyldodecanol. Many other examples of materials from the classes listed above would be readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art. [0065] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of shampoos, conditioners (rinse-off and leave-in), deep treatments for hair, body washes, bath gels, hair dyeing compositions, permanent wave formulations, relaxers, make-up preparations, particularly mascara and foundation, and skin creams or lotions.
[0066] Another embodiment of the present invention is drawn to a process for treating a keratinous substrate comprising contacting the keratinous substrate with an aqueous composition as described above. After such contacting step, the composition may optionally be removed, for example by rinsing. [0067] The keratinous substrate includes but is not limited to, hair, skin, or eyelashes. [0068] The term "treating" in the context of this invention includes, but is not limited to, shampooing, conditioning, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing, setting, moisturizing, and making-up, for example, applying mascara or foundation.
[0069] The present invention also concerns a personal care composition such as for example a shampoo, a conditioning composition, a dyeing composition, a bleaching composition, a permanent waving composition, a relaxing composition, a setting composition, a moisturizing composition, a making-up composition, comprising the composition as described above. Such personal care composition shall then contain additional classical ingredients known from the man skilled in the art, and which depend on the use thereof.
[0070] The composition of the present invention is particularly advantageous when used in shampoos, conditioners, and deep treatments for hair which has been treated, e.g., with color (dye or bleach) or chemicals (permanent wave or straightening), or hair which is dry or fine.
[0071] The present invention further includes a method for incorporating into an aqueous composition at least one water- insoluble compound, wherein a combination of the at least following compounds is used:
(a) at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from: polyarcvine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
(c) at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters.
[0072] Such a method allows to obtain a water-insoluble material containing aqueous composition which remains homogeneous and clear.
[0073] The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which are intended to be illustrative of the invention, but not limiting thereof. EXAMPLES :
Except if otherwise specified, all percentages indicated in the examples hereunder are percentages by weight.
[0074] General Procedure: heat water to 800C and all of the ingredients and mix well until uniform. Cool to room temperature, pour at 600C if necessary.
EXAMPLE 1
[0075] Example 1. a :
[0076] The following mixtures A to G (in grams weight) were made using the General Procedure.
Figure imgf000020_0001
Procetyl AWS is a nonionic surfactant (PPG-5-ceteth-20) .
Crodafos SG is an alkoxylated alkyl ester phosphate (PPG-5- ceteth-10 phosphate) .
D.I. as employed herein means deionised.
[0077] The complete system, as shown in column A, is a clear system. It remains clear when diluted with water indefinitely. If one or two ingredients from the mixture
(polyamine compound, nonionic surfactant, or phosphate ester) are removed from the formula, as shown in columns B to G, the mixtures are no longer clear; they are hazy and remain hazy when diluted with water.
[0078] This example illustrates the necessity of having all three components (polyamine compound, nonionic surfactant, and phosphate ester) in order for the system to carry olive oil, and to still remain clear upon dilution with water. [0079] Example l.b:
The following systems with vegetable oils as water-insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain polyethyleneimine (PEI) , a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and oils (olive oil, avocado oil) .
PEI Non-ionic surfactant Crodafos Vegetable Oil
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (22%) Crodafos N3A (2%) Olive Oil (2%)
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA (2%) Olive Oil (4%)
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG (2%) Olive Oil (4%)
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos N3A (2%) Avocado Oil (4% )
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA (2%) Avocado Oil (4% )
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG (2%) Avocado Oil (4% )
[0080] These systems are clear, and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[0081] Example l.c;
[0082] The following systems with silicones as water- insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain polyethyleneimine (PEI), a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and a silicone (Phenyltrimethicone) .
PEI Non-ionic Crodafos Silicone
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos N3A (1%) Phenyltrimethicone (2%)
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA (1%) Phenyltrimethicone (2%)
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG ( 1%) Phenyltrimethicone (2%)
[0083] These systems are clear, and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[0084] Example l.d:
The following systems with waxes as water-insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain polyethyleneimine (PEI), a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and a wax (Phytowax Olive) .
PEI Non-ionic Crodafos Wax
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos N3A (2%) Phytowax Olive (4 %)
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA (2%) Phytowax Olive (4 %)
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG (2%) Phytowax Olive (4 %)
[0085] These systems are clear, and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[0086] Example l.e:
[0087] The following systems with hydrocarbons as water- insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain polyethyleneimine (PEI), a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl ether pPhosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and hydrocarbon (mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) .
PEI Non-ionic Crodafos Hydrocarbon
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos N3A (2%) Mineral Oil (4% )
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA (2%) Mineral Oil (4% )
PEI (10%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG ( 2%) Mineral Oil (4% )
[0088] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[0089] Example l.f:
[0090] The following system with hydrocarbons as water- insoluble compounds was made using the General Procedure above. The system contains polyethyleneimine (PEI), a non- ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), an alkyl ether phosphate (Crodafos N3A) and hydrocarbon (mineral oil).
Figure imgf000023_0001
[0091] Example l.g:
[0092] The following clear system with hydrocarbons as water-insoluble compounds was made using the General Procedure above. The system contains polyethyleneimine (PEI), a non- ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), an alkyl phosphate ester (cetyl phosphate) and hydrocarbons (mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) .
Figure imgf000023_0002
[0093] Example 2. a:
[0094] The following mixtures A to G [in grams weight) were made using the General Procedure above. [0095]
Figure imgf000023_0003
Lexamine S-13 from Inolex is a tertiary fatty amine (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) .
[0096] The complete system, as shown in column A, is a clear system. It remains clear when diluted with water indefinitely. If one or two ingredients from the mixture (fatty amine, nonionic surfactant, or phosphate ester) are removed from the formula, as shown in columns B to G, the mixtures are no longer clear; they are hazy and remain hazy when diluted with water.
[0097] This example illustrates the necessity of having all three components (fatty amine, nonionic surfactant, and phosphate ester) in order for the system to carry olive oil, and to still remain clear upon dilution with water.
[0098] Example 2.b:
[0099] The following systems with vegetable oils as water- insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain a fatty Amine (Lexamine S- 13) , a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and oils (olive oil, avocado oil) .
Amine Non-ionic Crodafos Vegetable Oil
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos N3A olive oil (4%) (2%) (30%) (1%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos NlOA olive oil (4%) (2%) (30%) (1%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos SG (1%) olive oil (4%) (2%) (30%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos N3A avocado oil (4%) (2%) (30%) (1%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos NlOA avocado oil (4%) (2%) (30%) (1%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos SG (1%) avocado oil (4%) (2%) (30%)
[00100] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00101] Example 2.c:
[00102] The following systems with silicones as water- insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain a fatty Amine (Lexamine S- 13) , a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3Af Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and a silicone (phenyltrimethicone)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodaf os N3A Phenyltrimethicone (1%) (30%) (0.5% (4%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodaf os NlOA Phenyltrimethicone (1%) (30%) (0.5% (4%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodaf os SG Phenyltrimethicone (1%) (30%) (0.5% (4%)
[00103] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00104] Example 2.d:
[00105] The following systems with waxes as water-insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain a fatty Amine (Lexamine S-13) , a non- ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and a wax (Phytowax Olive) .
Amine Non-ionic Crodafos Wax
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos N3A Phytowax Olive (2%) (30%) (1%) (4%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos NlOA Phytowax Olive
\<÷ o ) (30%) (1%) (4%)
Lexamine S-13 Procetyl AWS Crodafos SG (1%) Phytowax Olive (_--s ; (30%) (4%)
[00106] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00107] Example 2.e:
The following systems with hydrocarbons as water-insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain a fatty amine (Lexamine S-13) , a non- ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and hydrocarbons (mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) . Amine Non-ionic Crodafos Hydrocarbon
Lexamine S-13 (2%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos N3A (1%) Mineral Oil (4%)
Lexamine S-13 (2%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA (1%) Mineral Oil (4%)
Lexamine S-13 (2%) Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG (1%) Mineral Oil (4%)
[00108] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00109] Example 2.f:
[00110] The following clear system with hydrocarbon as water-insoluble compounds was made using the General Procedure above. These systems contain a fatty Amine (Lexamine S-13), a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), an alkyl phosphate (Cetyl Phosphate) and hydrocarbon (mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) .
Figure imgf000026_0001
EXAMPLE 3:
[00111] Example 3. a:
[00112] The following mixtures A to G (in grams weight) were made using the General Procedure above.
Figure imgf000026_0002
The lecithin used in all examples 3 is sold by the company American Lecithin.
[00113] The complete system, as shown in column A, is a clear system. It remains clear when diluted with water indefinitely. If one or two ingredients (lecithin, nonionic surfactant, or phosphate ester) are removed from the formula, as shown in columns B to G, the mixtures are no longer clear; they are hazy and remain hazy when diluted with water. [00114] This example illustrates the necessity of having all three components (lecithin, nonionic surfactant, and phosphate ester) , in order for the system to carry olive oil, and to still remain clear upon dilution with water.
[00115] Example 3.b:
[00116] The following systems with vegetable oils as water- insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain lecithin, a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and oils (Olive oil, Avocado oil) .
Lecithin Non-ionic Crodafos Vegetable Oil
Lecithin (5%) Procetyl AWS Crodafos N3A Olive Oil (4%) (30%) (0.5%)
Lecithin (5%) Procetyl AWS Crodafos NlOA Olive Oil (4%) (30%) (0.5%)
Lecithin (5%) Procetyl AWS Crodafos SG Olive Oil (4%) (30%) (0.5%)
Lecithin (5%) Procetyl AWS Crodafos N3A Avocado Oil (4%) (30%) (0.5%)
Lecithin (5%) Procetyl AWS Crodafos NlOA Avocado Oil (4%) (30%) (0.5%)
Lecithin (5%) Procetyl AWS Crodafos SG Avocado Oil (4%) (30%) (0.5%)
[00117] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00118] Example 3.c:
[00119] The following systems with silicones as water- insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain lecithin, non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and a silicone (phenyltrimethicone) .
Figure imgf000028_0001
[00120] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00121] Example 3.d:
[00122] The following systems with waxes as water-insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain lecithin, a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , Alkyl Ether Phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and a wax (Phytowax Olive).
Figure imgf000028_0002
[00123] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00124] Example 3.e:
The following systems with hydrocarbons as water-insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain lecithin, a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and hydrocarbons (mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) . Lecithin Non-ionic Crodafos Hydrocarbon
Lecithin Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos N3A Mineral Oil (4%) (5%) (0.5%)
Lecithin Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA Mineral Oil (4%) (5%) (0.5%)
Lecithin Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG (0.5%) Mineral Oil (4%) (5%)
[00125] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00126] Example 3.f:
[00127] The following clear system with hydrocarbons as water- insoluble compounds was made using the General Procedure above. The system contains lecithin, a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl phosphates (cetyl phosphate) and hydrocarbons (mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) .
Figure imgf000029_0001
EXAMPLE 4:
[00128] Example 4. a:
[00129] The following mixtures A to G (in grams weight) were made using the General Procedure.
Figure imgf000029_0002
Genamin KDMP from Clariant is behentrimonium chloride.
[00130] The complete system, as shown in column A, is a clear system. It remains clear when diluted with water indefinitely. If one or two ingredients from the QNC mixture (quaternary fatty amine, nonionic surfacant, or phosphate ester) are removed from the formula, as shown in columns B to G, the mixtures are no longer clear; they are hazy and remain hazy when diluted with water.
This example illustrates the necessity of having all three components (quaternary fatty amine, nonionic surfacant, and phosphate ester) in order for the system to carry olive oil, and to still remain clear upon dilution with water.
[00131] Example 4.b:
[00132] The following systems with vegetable oils were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain a quaternary fatty amine (Genamin KDMP) , a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS) , alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and oils (olive oil, avocado oil) .
Quat Non-ionic Crodafos Vegetable Oil
Behentrimonium Chloride Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos N3A (1%) Olive Oil (4%) (2%)
Behentrimonium Chloride Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA (1%) Olive Oil (4%)
(2%)
Behentrimonium Chloride Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG (1%) Olive Oil (4%) (2%)
Behentrimonium Chloride Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos N3A (1%) Avocado Oil (4%) (2%)
Behentrimonium Chloride Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos NlOA (1%) Avocado Oil (4%) (2%)
Behentrimonium Chloride Procetyl AWS (30%) Crodafos SG (1%) Avocado Oil (4%) (2%)
[00133] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00134] Example 4.c:
The following systems with silicones as water-insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain a quaternary Fatty Amine (Genamin KDMP) , a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and a silicone (phenyltrimethicone) .
Figure imgf000031_0001
[00135] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00136] Example 4.d;
[00137] The following systems with waxes as water-insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain a quaternary fatty amine (Genamin KDMP) , a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and a wax (Phytowax Olive) .
Figure imgf000031_0002
[00138] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00139] Example 4.e:
[00140] The following systems with hydrocarbons as water- insoluble compounds were made using the General Procedure above. All of the formulas below have been Q. S. to 100% with D.I. water. These systems contain a quaternary fatty amine (Genamin KDMP), a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), alkyl ether phosphates (Crodafos N3A, Crodafos NlOA, and Crodafos SG) and hydrocarbons (mineral oil Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) .
Quat Non-ionic Crodafos Hydrocarbon
Behentrimonium Procetyl AWS Crodafos N3A (1%) Mineral Oil (4 %) Chloride (1%) (30%)
Behentrimonium Procetyl AWS Crodafos NlOA (1%) Mineral Oil (4 %) Chloride (1%) (30%)
Behentrimonium Procetyl AWS Crodafos SG (1%) Mineral Oil (4 %) Chloride (1%) (30%)
[00141] These systems are clear and remain clear when diluted with water indefinitely.
[00142] Example 4.f:
[00143] The following clear system with hydrocarbons as water-insoluble compounds was made using the General Procedure above. This system contains a quaternary fatty amine (Genamin KDMP), a non-ionic surfactant (Procetyl AWS), alkyl phosphates (Hostaphat CC 100 from Clariant, Which corresponds to cetyl phosphate) and hydrocarbon (mineral oil: Carnation White Mineral Oil from Penreco) .
Figure imgf000032_0001
[00144] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made in the delivery system, composition and methods of the invention without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, it is intended that the present invention cover the modifications and variations of this invention provided that they come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. An aqueous composition containing:
(d) at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from: polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof;
(e) at least one nonionic surfactant;
(f) at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters; and
(g) at least one water-insoluble compound.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen- containing compound (a) is chosen from polymers comprising at least three amino groups.
3. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the nitrogen-containing compound (a) is chosen from aminated polysaccharides, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylamines, proteins and protein derivatives.
4. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the nitrogen-containing compound (a) is chosen from polyethyleneimines and polyvinylamines.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen- containing compound (a) is chosen from primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty monoamines containing at least one hydrocarbon group having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
6. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the nitrogen-containing compound (a) is chosen from tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen- containing compound (a) is chosen from quaternary amine compounds containing at least one long chain alkyl group having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
8. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the nitrogen-containing compound (a) is behentrimonium chloride.
9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen- containing compound (a) is chosen from lecithins.
10. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one nitrogen-containing compound (a) is present in a total amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one nitrogen-containing compound (a) is present in a total amount of from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the nonionic surfactant (b) has a HLB of from 8 to 20.
13. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the nonionic surfactant (b) is chosen from:
- alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the fatty alkyl chain is in the Ce to C50 range,
- alkyl (poly) glycosides,
- glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids,
- sorbitan esters of fatty acids,
- alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: glyceryl esters of fatty acids, sorbitan esters of fatty acids, alkyl (poly) glycosides,
- and mixtures thereof.
14. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant (b) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant (b) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
16. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the (alkoxylated) alkyl phosphate ester (c) is chosen from mono- esters and their salts, di-esters and their salts, tri-esters, and mixtures thereof.
17. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the phosphate ester (c) is chosen from :
- mono-esters corresponding to formula (I) and salts thereof:
RO[CH2 0] u [ (CH2) xCH (R') (CH2) y (CH2) z O]V[CH2CH2 0]w- PO-(OH)2
(D
- di-esters corresponding to formula (II) and salts thereof:
{RO[CH2 0]u[ (CH2)XCH(R') (CH2)y(CH2)= O]V[CH2CH2 O]W}2PO-(OH)
(II)
- tri-esters corresponding to formula (III) :
(RO[CH2 0]u[ (CH2)XCH(R') (CH2)y(CH2)2 O]V[CH2CH2 0]w}3P0
(III)
- and combinations thereof, wherein:
R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from β to 40 carbon atoms; u, v and w, independently of one another, each represent a number of from 0 to 60; x, y and z, independently of one another, each represent a number of from 0 to 13;
R' represents hydrogen or an alkyl group.
18. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the phosphate ester (c) is chosen from PPG-5-ceteth-lO phosphate, oleth-3 phosphate, oleth-10 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dicetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
19. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one phosphate ester (c) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
20. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one phosphate ester (c) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 15 % by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
21. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the water-insoluble compound (d) is chosen from: - silicones, oil-soluble vitamins, sunscreens, ceramides and natural oils;
- water-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes;
- and mixtures thereof.
22. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the water-insoluble compound is chosen from silicones, hydrocarbon oils, plant oils, fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, fatty waxes, and mixtures thereof.
23. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one water-insoluble compound (d) is employed in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
24. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one water-insoluble compound (d) is employed in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
25. A process for treating a keratinous substrate, comprising contacting the keratinous substrate with an aqueous composition according to any claim 1 to 24.
26. The process of claim 25, wherein after the contacting step, the composition is removed for example by rinsing.
27. The process of claims 25 or 26, wherein the keratinous substrate is hair.
28. A personal care composition comprising an aqueous composition according to any claim 1 to 24.
29. A method for incorporating into an aqueous composition at least one water-insoluble compound, wherein a combination of the at least following compounds is used:
(a) at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from: polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
(c) at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters.
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US11/583,238 US20080096781A1 (en) 2006-10-19 2006-10-19 Aqueous systems containing fatty quaternary amine, surfactant and phosphate ester for water-insoluble materials
US11/583,238 2006-10-19
US11/583,431 2006-10-19
US11/583,284 2006-10-19
US11/583,431 US20080096782A1 (en) 2006-10-19 2006-10-19 Aqueous systems containing phospholipid, surfactant and phosphate ester for water-insoluble materials
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