WO2008031685A1 - Extrait de racine issu de harpagophytum pour stimuler la pousse des cheveux - Google Patents

Extrait de racine issu de harpagophytum pour stimuler la pousse des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008031685A1
WO2008031685A1 PCT/EP2007/058490 EP2007058490W WO2008031685A1 WO 2008031685 A1 WO2008031685 A1 WO 2008031685A1 EP 2007058490 W EP2007058490 W EP 2007058490W WO 2008031685 A1 WO2008031685 A1 WO 2008031685A1
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Prior art keywords
hair
harpagophytum
use according
acid
extracts
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PCT/EP2007/058490
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Melanie Giesen
Thomas Welss
Klaus Rudolf SCHRÖDER
Olaf HOLTKÖTTER
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Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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Priority to EP07802633A priority Critical patent/EP2061426A1/fr
Publication of WO2008031685A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008031685A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/14—Drugs for dermatological disorders for baldness or alopecia
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum for the treatment of hair.
  • the human skin with its appendages is a very complex organ composed of a variety of different cell types. Every living cell of this organ is able to respond to signals of its internal and external environment. These reactions of the cells are realized by an orderly regulation on gene and protein level, so that the metabolism of skin cells and their appendages is not static but very dynamic. However, the reactions of the skin and / or its appendages to environmental changes should not be considered as reactions of isolated isolated cells. Rather, each cell is integrated into a complex communication network. This network includes e.g. the communication between cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. At the communication between the cells of the skin and / or their appendages, signal molecules, e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.
  • signal molecules e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.
  • the aging process is a fundamental biological process found in almost all living organisms. Accordingly, the human skin is affected by this phenomenon. Skin aging is a progressive process leading to a loss of skin homeostasis. It is influenced by endogenous and exogenous factors. While the endogenous aspects run as a "genetically controlled program", environmental factors such as UV light are responsible for the exogenous factors.
  • the amount of a hair-active agent which can usually penetrate transdermally and especially transfollicularly to the hair bulb, is extremely low and depends essentially on the physicochemical properties of the substance itself (for example: size, charge, lipophilicity) and the choice of formulation.
  • Hair follicle cells undergo a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression, and resting phase.
  • the hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly renews itself and thus, depending on the respective growth phase, has a unique metabolism.
  • the hair follicle's metabolism almost completely stops in the resting phase and is also reinitiated with each new beginning of another cycle.
  • This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb, the dermal papilla cells, which control hair growth through a complex set of molecular signals specific to each phase of the hair cycle (Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55).
  • the genus of the devil's claw belongs to the sesame family
  • Harpagophytum contains a number of known ingredients that are already used in medicine. Only the subterranean branched storage roots become
  • bitter substances iridoiglycosides of the harpagophytum have an anti-inflammatory, decongestant and mild analgesic properties.
  • the devil's claw (Harpagophytum) is used to promote the
  • EP0524873 B1 discloses the use of Harpagophyton root extracts for the production of therapeutic antipruritic compositions.
  • US6541045 B1 discloses an herbal anti-inflammatory composition containing the Devil's Claw in addition to Japanese Perennial Knotweed, Grapeskin, and Syzygium.
  • agents containing active ingredients obtained from plants of the genus Harpagophytum are suitable for strengthening and / or thickening the hair.
  • the present invention therefore relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum for the treatment of hair, in particular for the stimulation of hair growth, reactivation of the hair root and for strengthening (thickening) of the hair.
  • Harpagophytum procumbens from the company Frutarom is preferably used.
  • Active substances obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum procumbens, according to the invention, are to be understood as meaning the plant itself, its plant parts, extracts and pressed juices of Harpagophytum procumbens, as well as active substances to be obtained from these extracts.
  • the pressed juices or extracts are preferably obtained from the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, tubers and / or seeds of the Harpagophytum plant, very particularly preferably they are obtained from the roots.
  • aqueous extracts or aqueous-alcoholic extracts or aqueous-organic or alcoholic extracts of Harpagophytumpflanze are also preferred.
  • the extracts may be prepared with water, as well as polar or nonpolar organic solvents, as well as mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art. Extracts that can be obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures and press juice are preferred.
  • the active ingredients of the Harpagophytumpflanze can also be obtained by extraction with other alcohols, for example with methanol, propanol, propanol, isopronaol and / or propylene glycol.
  • extracts in the original extractant and extracts / compressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular ethanol, and also ethanol / water mixtures.
  • extracted or pressed material is used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as gently as possible) was removed.
  • those extracts / compressed juices to which the solvent has been partly removed, so that a thickened extract / compressed juice is used.
  • the extracts and / or compressed juices are used in solid form.
  • the ratio of alcohol to water in the aqueous-alcoholic extract is preferably 1: 1 to 1: 5, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 or 1: 3, very particularly preferably 1: 3 Furthermore, it has been found that the use of agents containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum lead to stimulation of hair growth and strengthening of vital hair (Example 7). The hair is thereby fortified and vitalized and can better repair damage or build new hair.
  • Another advantage of the present invention is that the agents containing agents derived from harpagothyme plants are able to positively affect hair growth by repressing or reducing specific inhibiting hair-specific genes.
  • the repression or reduction of the inhibiting genes causes the hair root can be reactivated.
  • the hair structure is already influenced by the hair roots, so that the hair can regrow vigorously and healthy.
  • the hair is positively influenced in its growth and metabolism by the application of said agents.
  • the active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum are preferably used in hair treatment compositions, in particular shampoos, hair conditioners, hair gels, hair lotions, hair treatments, hair creams, hair lotions, hair sprays and hair tinctures.
  • the application of these agents is usually topical, wherein the agent simply in the hair, on the scalp or on skin areas on which in particular the hair growth is set for a long time and should be reactivated by spraying, massage, apply and / or kneading is applied.
  • the agent in the form of hair gel, hair lotions, hair conditioner, hair cream, hair lotion, hair spray and hair tincture, it is usually not necessary to rinse the hair or the scalp again or to treat it with other additional means to a positive effect of the agent to reach.
  • the funds can remain on the hair.
  • the agent can be rinsed off after a contact time. This rinsing can be done with pure water or a commercially available shampoo. Exposure times of 10 seconds to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.
  • Active substances obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, preferably the pressed juices and / or extracts of harpagophytum, are preferably present in said agents in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, and amounts of 0.01 to 2 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.
  • Haartonics especially as a leave on formulation. These are preferably used at room temperature, the alcoholic content is preferably in the range of about 30% to about 35
  • Genus Harpagophytum with subsequent encapsulation in liposomes is particularly preferred.
  • Such liposomes can be used in particular in Haartonics.
  • Be encapsulated substances that are appropriate for the application.
  • the compositions containing the active substances of the plants of the genus Harpagophytum, more preferably pressed juice or (ethanolic) extracts of Harpagophytum procumbens may also be added to other hair treatment agents such as hair dyes and waving agents.
  • these agents then optionally contain the known substantive dyes, precursors for oxidation dyes (developer and coupler components) and oxidizing or reducing agents.
  • the agents can thus protect the hair from the stress of dyeing, activate the hair follicle and at the same time reduce or relieve skin irritation through the hair dye or hair dye.
  • creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, are packaged as formulations of the preparations containing the agents according to the invention.
  • Gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols. are usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic basis.
  • alcoholic component while lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol and water, can be preferred bases according to the invention.
  • the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred.
  • acids are used as acids. Acid acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Exotic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • the funds can be made up as a single-chamber system or as a two-chamber system.
  • the means may in principle contain all other known to those skilled in such cosmetic products components.
  • the agents may additionally comprise protein hydrolysates.
  • they are cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate is derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by means of a chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, be obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and cited: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiC, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Coco
  • film-forming substances can additionally be incorporated into the formulations, which are absorbed by the hair and thus thicken directly and perceptibly.
  • Suitable film formers are known to the person skilled in the art and are selected, for example, from polymers, e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers thereof.
  • such an agent contains a hair growth stimulating agent.
  • a hair growth stimulating agent particularly preference is given to using compounds which are selected from 5- ⁇ -reductase inhibitors, minoxidil (6-piperidino-2,4-pyrimidinediamine-3-oxide) and aminexil (diaminopyrimidine oxide) as hair growth-stimulating active substances.
  • Suitable 5- ⁇ -reductase inhibitors are in particular functional C 2 -C 12 -carboxylic acids and their physiologically acceptable metal salts, in particular 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and its derivatives, derivatives of C 3 -C 9 -polymers, phenol derivatives, plant extracts, fragrances, flavonoids, isoflavonoids, 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes, aluminum chlorohydrate, 2-phenylethanol, etidronic acid, 7-acetyl-1,1,1,3,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, tropolone derivatives, esters of sulfuric acid with alkoxylated C8-C18 Fatty alcohols and their physiologically acceptable metal salts, esters of phosphoric acid and triphosphoric acid with mono- to hexahydric hydroxy compounds, silicic acid esters, isolable from marine organisms mycosporin-like amino acids (MAA) and quatern
  • derivatives are meant in particular their salts, esters and amides. Very particular preference is given to 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and finasteride (N-tert-butyl-3-oxo-4-aza-5 ⁇ -androst-1-ene-17-carboxamide) and derivatives thereof.
  • the hair growth-stimulating effect of the active ingredients can be improved by their use in agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum.
  • agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum.
  • agents which, in addition to the active compounds obtainable from harpagophytum plants, more preferably (ethanolic) extracts or pressed juices from Harpagophytum procumbens contain at least one further active ingredient selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid, minoxidil and finasteride.
  • the hair growth stimulating agent is also selected in this combination from minoxidil and finasteride.
  • auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic surfactants such as alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yloligoglucosides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and polysorbates , If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution.
  • nonionic surfactants such as alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk
  • anionic surfactants in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic mono- and
  • Derivatives e.g., methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between
  • 12 to 36 C atoms in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl -n-octyl ether, n-
  • Fatty alcohols in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 C atoms, and
  • Fatty acid fiber structure-improving agents in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil,
  • Lecithin and cephaline quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Light stabilizers in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, other substances for adjusting the pH, such as ⁇ - and ß-
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Reducing agents such as B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C6-C30, preferably C10-C22 and very particularly preferably C12-C22, carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol®, eg Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, eg Lanette® O or Lorol®, eg Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, eg Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmic acids, such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis).
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.1-10% by weight, with amounts of 0.1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • the natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, montan wax, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can advantageously be used according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myrotic alcohol, ristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18-alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetioo
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylylcarbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.
  • the agents may also contain surfactants. These may be anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well as cationic surfactants.
  • a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is used.
  • the skilled person can also largely or completely dispense with the use of surfactants. It has proven advantageous in individual cases to select the surfactants from amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (Soap),
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols the addition products of about 2-15
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) ⁇ . These connections are identified by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo alcohols When so-called "oxo alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
  • these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • R 1 consists essentially of C 8 and C 10 alkyl groups, essentially of C 12 and C 14 alkyl groups, essentially of C 8 to C 16 alkyl groups or essentially of C 12 - to C 16 alkyl groups.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, Arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
  • alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl-glycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and which are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C - atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 _i 8 -acylsarcosine.
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • normal homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts.
  • narrowed Homologous distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a. Vitamin B1 (thiamine)
  • Vitamin B3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B5 type are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid. Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the common name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Of course, several vitamins and vitamin precursors may also be present at the same time.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • the amount of vitamins and vitamin precursors used in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably from 0.0001 to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.0001 to 3% by weight. ,
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • plant extracts may be incorporated into the agents used, the active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • an object of the present invention is the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, wherein the agent may contain additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants, anioic Surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, thickeners, perfume oils, dyes, light stabilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, blowing agents, reducing agents.
  • additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants, anioic Surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, thickeners, perfume oils, dyes, light stabilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, blowing agents, reducing agents.
  • the proportion of active ingredients of Harpagophytumesse is preferably 0.001 to 10 wt .-% in the overall composition.
  • an article of the present invention is a hair treatment composition containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum.
  • a hair treatment agent may be a shampoo, hair conditioner, hair gel, hair tonic, hair conditioner, hair cream, hair lotion, hair spray or a hair tincture.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use, in particular the cosmetic use for revitalizing hair, reactivation of the hair root, stimulation the energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing (especially stimulation) of keratin synthesis, or hair conditioning.
  • the reactivation and stimulation of the hair root is effected according to the invention in particular by the repression of certain hair growth-inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells. Therefore, another preferred embodiment of the present invention is the use of agents containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum for reactivation of the hair root or hair by repression and / or reduction of hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells.
  • Another object of the present invention is a method, in particular a cosmetic method for revitalizing hair, reactivation of the hair root, hair thickening, stimulation of keratin synthesis, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth or hair conditioning, characterized in that applying an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Harpagophytum, on the hair or the hairy skin.
  • an object of the present invention is a method wherein the active ingredients of Harpagophytumpflanze not be rinsed after use, but remain on the hair or on the skin.
  • Another object of the present invention is a method in which the hair growth and the hair roots are stimulated and reactivated in that hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells are repressed or reduced.
  • PROPYLENE GLYCOL PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE
  • Cutina CP V (formerly) Cutina CP PF (formerly) Cognis Germany GmbH Cetyl palmitate (vegetable base) CETYL PALMITATE
  • the differential gene expression of the target genes was determined by means of quantitative RT-PCR. After culturing the dermal papilla cells, they were incubated with Harpagophytumex Exercise in the concentration of 0.1 and 0.01% for 6-72h. To carry out the PCR, the RNA is first isolated from the dermal papilla cells using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective hair-relevant genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed.
  • the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). In this case, values which are greater than or equal to twice the expression or less than or equal to the O. ⁇ fachen expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed.
  • Table 1 Influence of harpagophytum extract 0.01% on the expression of hair-relevant genes
  • Treatment with harpagophytum extract leads to a significant reduction in gene expression of certain hair growth inhibiting genes in dermal papilla cells in vitro. Based on this expression profile, induction of keratinocyte proliferation and thus stimulation of hair growth can be deduced.
  • Example 8 Determination of cell vitality of cultured fibroblasts after treatment with Harpahophvtumexschreib
  • the determination of the vitality of cultured cells provides information about the status of the cells.
  • Analysis can be defined both cell-damaging substance concentrations, as well as cell-activating drug effects are determined.
  • the vitality of cultured cells is determined by redox dyes. These dyes penetrate into the cell and are reduced by electron uptake on the outer mitochondrial membrane. This reduction requires a dye change, which is determined photometrically below.
  • the untreated control is set equal to 100% and the

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'un produit contenant des principes actifs issus de plantes du genre Harpagophytum pour traiter les cheveux, notamment pour revitaliser les cheveux, réactiver la racine des cheveux, activer les follicules pileux, favoriser ou renforcer la pousse des cheveux, épaissir les cheveux, traiter la chute des cheveux et améliorer l'aspect des cheveux.
PCT/EP2007/058490 2006-09-13 2007-08-16 Extrait de racine issu de harpagophytum pour stimuler la pousse des cheveux WO2008031685A1 (fr)

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DE102006043766A DE102006043766A1 (de) 2006-09-13 2006-09-13 Wurzelextrakt aus Harpagophytum zur Stimulierung des Haarwuchses

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2962733A1 (fr) * 2014-07-04 2016-01-06 Laboratoire Puressentiel Benelux SA Composition cosmétique pour favoriser la pousse et/ou freiner la chute des cheveux
FR3118420A1 (fr) * 2020-12-30 2022-07-01 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un agent antichute, au moins un pigment, au moins un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, au moins un agent épaississant de phase aqueuse et au moins un solvant organique et de l’eau

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2962733A1 (fr) * 2014-07-04 2016-01-06 Laboratoire Puressentiel Benelux SA Composition cosmétique pour favoriser la pousse et/ou freiner la chute des cheveux
BE1022152B1 (fr) * 2014-07-04 2016-02-19 Laboratoire Puressentiel Benelux S.A. Composition cosmetique pour favoriser la pousse et/ou freiner la chute des cheveux
FR3118420A1 (fr) * 2020-12-30 2022-07-01 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins un agent antichute, au moins un pigment, au moins un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, au moins un agent épaississant de phase aqueuse et au moins un solvant organique et de l’eau

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