WO2008012869A1 - Weftwise stretch lining cloth and method of producing the same - Google Patents

Weftwise stretch lining cloth and method of producing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008012869A1
WO2008012869A1 PCT/JP2006/314641 JP2006314641W WO2008012869A1 WO 2008012869 A1 WO2008012869 A1 WO 2008012869A1 JP 2006314641 W JP2006314641 W JP 2006314641W WO 2008012869 A1 WO2008012869 A1 WO 2008012869A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weft
warp
lining
yarn
fabric
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2006/314641
Other languages
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Masanori Nakagawa
Ryozo Ueno
Original Assignee
Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation filed Critical Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation
Priority to PCT/JP2006/314641 priority Critical patent/WO2008012869A1/en
Priority to EP06781553A priority patent/EP2045381B1/en
Priority to KR1020087028419A priority patent/KR101101452B1/en
Priority to JP2008526623A priority patent/JP4819123B2/en
Priority to CN2006800554044A priority patent/CN101501258B/en
Publication of WO2008012869A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008012869A1/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D17/00—Woven fabrics having elastic or stretch properties due to manner of weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/28—Cellulose esters or ethers, e.g. cellulose acetate
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a specific weft stretch lining and a method for producing the same.
  • the lining obtained by this method does not spread as much as the lining because the thickness of the lining is easy to squeeze and the slippage is also poor.
  • Other means include those using the bulkiness and crimpability of false twisted yarn and those using false twisted yarn and twisted yarn.
  • the lining obtained by these methods also exhibited a feeling of fluffiness, graininess, graininess, etc., and the quality of the lining was low.
  • Patent Document 1 describes a lining having weft stretchability of 5% or more and less than 12% using non-twisted yarns for both warp and weft yarns.
  • Patent Document 2 describes a lining having a weft stretchability of 3% or more and less than 30% using polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn as weft.
  • a weft crimp is expressed by using a bending soft knives (fine single yarn, flat yarn, etc.) for the weft.
  • Patent Document 2 a weft crimp is expressed by using an elastic yarn as a weft.
  • a stretch yarn (elastic yarn, twisted yarn, etc.) is used for the weft yarn
  • a non-warp yarn is used for the weft yarn
  • a soft soft yarn is used as a lining having a stretch property in the weft direction.
  • the recent stretch of the outer material has increased by around 15% to 20%, and in order to cope with the growth of the outer material with the lining described above, a good slip is thus obtained.
  • the reality is that there is no lining that can satisfy the high stretchability of the recent outer material, satisfying the stretchability and stretchability.
  • Patent Document 1 International Publication WO99Z31309 Specification
  • Patent Document 2 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-172843
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a lining excellent in wearing comfort and having stretchability having a large elongation in the weft direction without impairing slipperiness.
  • the crimp index which is a measure of the surface structure of the lining, it is possible to provide a lining that is excellent in detachability, seam slippage, and motion followability when worn. It is something that can be done if possible.
  • a further object of the present invention is to provide a polyester-based long fiber 100% lining having the above functions, a polyester-based continuous fiber / cellulosic continuous fiber lining, and a cellulose-based long fiber.
  • the present inventors have studied in detail how to increase the weft crimp rate in the woven fabric, which directly reflects the weft elongation rate of the lining, and as a result, untwisted yarn was used as the weft yarn.
  • the inventors have found that the weft crimp rate in the woven fabric that leads to the stretch rate can be easily increased by (scouring'heat treatment ⁇ set), and the present invention has been achieved.
  • the crimp rate here refers to the length between the marks (L) when a load of 1Z10 of fineness is applied to the weft yarn that has been marked with a 20cm mark in the weft direction of the fabric of the raw machine and the final finished product, and the fabric force is also taken out. Is calculated from the following equation.
  • Crimp rate (%) ⁇ (L— 20) Z20 ⁇ X 100 (3)
  • the present invention is as follows.
  • K twist coefficient
  • (1) 2000 or more and 15000 or less and having substantially no untwisting polyester fibers It consists of a woven fabric made of fibers or cellulosic long fibers for weft, and the weft elongation is 8% or more 20% or less, the dynamic friction coefficient of the surface is 0.20 or more, 0.40 or less, and the cribe index (C) defined by the following formula (2) is 0.007 or more and 0.0015 or less.
  • C Crimp ratio of product weft Z ⁇ MX (D) ° 5 ⁇ (2) where D is the warp fineness (dtex), T is the number of twists (tZm), M is the warp density (this Z2. 54cm) means.
  • weft elongation and the dynamic friction coefficient mean values measured by the KES (Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) method described later.
  • polyester long fiber is a polyethylene terephthalate long fiber
  • the lining fabric of the present invention has an appropriate stretch property, and therefore has a low compressibility when worn and an excellent follow-up performance. In addition, slipping hardly occurs and the shape retention is excellent. In addition, since it has good sliding properties, it is excellent in terms of force and ease of movement if it can be easily attached and detached.
  • FIG. 1 is an electron micrograph of a cross-sectional shape of a fabric in Comparative Example 2.
  • FIG. 2 is an electron micrograph of a cross-sectional shape of a fabric in Example 7.
  • a first feature of the present invention is a polyester having a twist coefficient (K) of 2000 or more and 15000 or less.
  • K twist coefficient
  • the long-lasting fibers or cellulose-based long fibers are used as warps, and the substantially non-twisted polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers are used as wefts.
  • the weft elongation of the woven fabric substantially corresponds to the crimp rate of the weft, so it is important how to efficiently crimp the weft.
  • the crimp rate of the weft in the raw machinery stage is expressed in the subsequent process (scouring process, heat treatment process) for polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers. It was found to correlate with. In other words, the higher the weft crimp rate of the raw machine, the greater the weft stretch rate of the final product.
  • the weft stretch rate can be improved.
  • the inventors of the present application have improved the weft crimp rate of the raw machine by twisting the warp, which leads to an improvement in the weft crimp rate of the final product, that is, reflected in the weft elongation. And the present invention has been reached.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the warp and the weft in the fabric is the binding force between several tens of single yarns constituting the long fiber. Because warp is weak, the warp and weft are pressed against each other and flattened together. In this case, the weft crimp rate of the raw machine becomes extremely low, and no high stretch can be achieved no matter how the subsequent process is devised.
  • the technical point that the weft stretch rate is improved over the prior art is (1) used for warp yarns by twisting warp yarns under specific conditions. Converging single filaments of long fibers and rounding the cross-sectional shape of the warp facilitates the formation of crimps of the wefts. (2) Increases the bending hardness of the wefts in contrast to the twisted warps of the warp. The soft weft is easier to crimp on the side.
  • the warp yarns were twisted under specific conditions to round the cross-sectional shape of the warp yarns, increase the bending hardness, and succeeded in making the weft yarns in the raw machinery stage more crisp. It became possible to create a stretch lining. Twisting of warp yarn and use of weft yarn are essential requirements. As will be described later, it is preferable to use a weft yarn that is bent or soft.
  • FIG. 1 An electron micrograph of the cross section of the fabric of Comparative Example 2 described later is shown in FIG. 1, and an electron micrograph of the cross section of the fabric of Example 7 is shown in FIG.
  • FIG. 1 An electron micrograph of the cross section of the fabric of Comparative Example 2 described later is shown in FIG. 1, and an electron micrograph of the cross section of the fabric of Example 7 is shown in FIG.
  • These photographs show that after weaving and drying before dyeing, we cut the woven fabric after drying so that the warp cross section appears, and after metal deposition, we observed it with an electron microscope (this form is close to the form of the final finished product)
  • the shape in the raw state before scouring and finishing is also similar to these), and shows the cross-sectional shape of the warp and the crimp shape of the weft.
  • twisting coefficient (K) represented by the following formula (1) is defined. Yes.
  • Twist multiplier (K) (0. 9 XD ) ° - 5 XT (1)
  • D warp fineness (dtex)
  • T the number of twists (tZm).
  • the present invention is characterized in that a yarn having a twist coefficient (K) in the range of 2000 or more and 15000 or less is used for the warp.
  • K twist coefficient
  • crimps are more likely to be formed than when untwisted, but the warp cross-sectional shape becomes slightly flat, so that a sufficient stretch lining cannot be obtained.
  • Examples of the fiber that can be used in the weft of the woven fabric used in the present invention include polyester-based long fibers and cellulose-based long fibers having the above-described twist coefficient.
  • Polyester long fibers used in the warp of the present invention include polyester polymers having fiber-forming properties such as homopolymers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyester copolymers of these polymers.
  • a fiber consisting of is used.
  • a fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate is also preferable in terms of surface force such as slipperiness.
  • additives such as electrical agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-proofing agents and titanium oxide are added.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, but may be a triangular shape, L shape, Y shape, T shape, polygonal shape, multileaf shape, hollow shape, flat shape, irregular shape, etc. Etc., S (?
  • Cellulosic long fibers used for warp include copper ammonia rayon, piscose rayon, polynosic rayon, regenerated cellulose fibers such as cellulose made from bamboo, organic solvents (N-methylmorpholine). N oxide) purified cellulose fibers spun and acetate fibers such as diacetate and triacetate are representative examples.
  • copper ammonia rayon long fibers, viscose rayon long fibers, and polynosic rayon long fibers are preferred.
  • the fineness of the polyester-based long fibers and the cellulose-based long fibers used for the warp is preferably 33 to 133 dtex ((3 ⁇ 46), more preferably 56 to 110 (3 ⁇ 46.
  • the single yarn fineness is particularly limited. Although not, it is preferably 0.5 to 10 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 5 dtex.
  • examples of fibers that can be used in the wefts of the present invention include untwisted polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers that are not substantially subjected to false twisting. These yarns may be interlaced or lightly twisted (about 10 to 200 tZm) in order to converge a substantially untwisted force filament.
  • Polyester long fibers used in the wefts of the present invention include polyester polymers having fiber-forming properties such as homopolymers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyester copolymers of these polymers.
  • a fiber consisting of is used.
  • a fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate is also preferable in terms of surface force such as slipperiness. There is no problem even if additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-proofing agents, and titanium oxide are added to the fiber.
  • Cellulosic long fibers used for wefts include copper ammonia rayon, pisco rayon rayon, polynosic rayon, regenerated cellulose fibers such as cellulose made from bamboo, organic solvents (N-methylmorpholine N oxide) )
  • Purified cellulose fibers to be spun include acetate fibers such as diacetate and triacetate. Slipperiness and The strength of the texture Copper ammonia rayon long fiber, viscose rayon long fiber and polynosic rayon long fiber are preferred.
  • the fineness of the polyester-based long fibers and cellulose-based long fibers used for the weft is preferably 33 to 133 dtex ((3 ⁇ 46), more preferably 56 to 110 (3 ⁇ 46.
  • the single yarn fineness is particularly limited. Although not, it is preferably 0.5 to 10 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 5 dtex.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use a flexible yarn to make the weft elongation appear efficiently.
  • the single yarn fineness is small, that is, the single yarn diameter is small, and the flatness is high, and it is particularly preferable to use the raw yarn.
  • the flat shape is not particularly limited, but it is not a simple flat type, but is a W type, I type, boomerang type, corrugated type, skewer type, etc. Particularly preferred.
  • the combination of warp and weft materials includes 100% polyester long fiber lining, 100% cellulose long fiber lining, and 2 types of interwoven lining of polyester long fiber and cellulose long fiber. There are 4 types of combinations, but there are no restrictions.
  • the second feature of the present invention is that the weft elongation of the fabric used for the lining is 8% or more and 20% or less, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is 0.20 or more, 0.40 or less, the crimp index ( C) is not less than 0.007 and not more than 0.015.
  • the elongation in the weft direction of the lining and the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining surface are as described above.
  • the fabric must be designed for a specific area. That is, the weft elongation of the backing of the present invention is preferably 8% or more and 20% or less, more preferably 10% or more and 20% or less, and particularly preferably 12% or more and 20% or less.
  • the weft elongation of the lining of the present invention can be controlled and adjusted by the twisting factor (warp fineness, number of twists), fabric density, and processing conditions (width filling rate).
  • the required weft elongation is "Kise (do not impair comfort! Cutting and wrapping the lining around the seam to give the lining a clear space) and the shape retention of the outer material, about 70% (3.5 to 7%) Is sufficient.
  • the present inventors conducted a wearing test with a lining with a different weft extension on a 15% weft stretch, and if the lining stretch is 8% or more, we may feel pressure and discomfort during operation. It was confirmed.
  • the crimp index (C) expressed by the equation (2) is within a specific range. I hope that
  • Crimp index (C) Crimp rate of the product weft Z ⁇ MX (D) 0 5 ⁇ (2)
  • D warp fineness (dtex)
  • M warp density (Z inch).
  • the crimp index is a measure for specifying the surface structure of the lining in terms of the weft elongation of the fabric and the cover factor of the warp.
  • the crimp index in the woven fabric unit of the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.007 or more and 0.0015 or less. If it is less than 0.007, it is not preferred that the weft crimp ratio is low and the weft elongation is less than 8%, the warp density is too high, or the warp fineness is too thick, the texture becomes hard. On the other hand, if it exceeds 0.015, the weft yarn is too large or the warp density is too low, or the warp fineness is too small and the weft structure is loose. It is not preferable.
  • slipperiness is mentioned as a lining characteristic that affects the feeling of wearing comfort.
  • the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining needs to be in the range of 0.20 or more and 0.40 or less.
  • the coefficient of dynamic friction tends to increase in proportion to the weft elongation, the wear feeling is not impaired as long as it is 0.40 or less. If it exceeds 0.4, it is unpreferable as a lining due to poor detachability and touch. Also, if it is less than 0.20, for example when wearing a skirt and sitting on a chair etc., the skirt's hem and other parts may be easily slipped because the sliding with the outer material, bare skin, panty king, etc. is too good. , It is not preferable because it causes troubles such as losing posture.
  • Examples of the woven structure of the lining of the present invention include plain weave, twill, satin weave and the like.
  • Which woven structure should be used may be determined as appropriate according to the lining application area and required characteristics. For example, for ladies' clothes, a thin and soft texture is preferred, so that a plain fabric lining is particularly preferred. In the case of men's clothing, slipping and a certain amount of thickness are required, so it is preferable to line up the twill organization.
  • the backing of the present invention can be produced by the method described below.
  • the manufacturing method is basically the same as the method described in the cited document 1, and when the raw machine is processed, the width of the raw machine may be 5-30% before or after scouring. That is, by performing the width insertion process in a state where the warp direction is more tensioned than the weft direction (width direction), the fabric shrinkage in the width direction of the fabric accompanying the increase in warp density (weft yarn) while suppressing the increase in the weft density as much as possible. To form a talymp).
  • the present invention can be performed by performing heat treatment at 160 ° C to 210 ° C in a state where the raw fabric is put into a width of 5 to 30% of the raw machinery width before or after scouring. Lining can be achieved. This is based on the principle that the weft is formed in the weft and the weft is formed by using the crimp of the weft formed in the raw fabric and the thermal shrinkage of the polyester long fiber.
  • heat treatment is performed with both ends of the fabric after weaving or scouring fixed, but the fixed width May be processed in a state where the width of the woven fabric is narrower than that after weaving or scouring and is more tensioned in the warp direction.
  • scouring is the process of removing oils and warp glues adhering to the woven fabric after weaving.
  • the treatment liquid used in this scouring is preferably water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali.
  • an open soap type continuous scouring machine As an apparatus, an open soap type continuous scouring machine, a liquid dyeing machine, a suspension continuation type scouring machine, a Wins scouring machine, a soft scouring machine, etc. that are generally used for scouring fabrics may be used. .
  • a dyeing and finishing process which is a general processing process of the backing, is applied. If you want the texture to be softer, you can safely reduce the alkali before dyeing.
  • the usual lining method is applied. Liquid dyeing machine, jigger dyeing machine, beam dyeing machine, Wins dyeing machine Etc. can be used.
  • the finishing process and the normal lining processing method may be adopted.
  • an antistatic agent, a water repellent, a sweat absorbing agent and the like can be added as a finishing agent.
  • calendering or embossing can be applied to improve the gloss, smoothness and texture of the fabric surface.
  • the widths are first put in the same manner as described above, and the polyester long fibers are dyed after scouring. .
  • cellulosic long fibers are dyed.
  • it may be dyed using the same dyeing machine that dyes polyester long fibers, or it can be dyed using another dyeing machine such as cold pad batch method or pad steam method or jigger method.
  • the weft is a cellulose-based long fiber
  • water, steam, and an aqueous solution of alcohol are applied to the fabric in the raw state, and then the fabric is put in a width of 5 to 15% of the width of the raw device.
  • Heat treatment at 100 ° C ⁇ 210 ° C should be done! /. This is the principal force that causes the weft to form a high degree of crimp by making the best use of the swelling action of the weft crimp formed in the raw fabric and the cellulosic long fibers caused by water.
  • the cellulose-based long fiber is cellulose acetate
  • heat treatment at 160 ° C. to 210 ° C.
  • a weft is formed in a weft fabric and a high degree of crimp is formed on the weft by using the crimp of the weft and the thermal shrinkage rate of cellulose acetate fiber.
  • a method that can uniformly impart water to the fabric for example, an immersion method, a spray method, a kiss roll method, and the like can be given. In consideration of processing cost and processing stability, the dipping method is preferable.
  • an alkaline compound such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or sodium carbonate can be added up to about lOwt%.
  • the lining of the present invention can be suitably obtained by using the woven fabric obtained by the method described above.
  • Measurement methods, evaluation methods, etc. are as follows.
  • ⁇ L is the length (cm) stretched under 490 NZm stress.
  • scoured cotton cloth of No. 3 gold width was attached to a friction element with a friction surface size of lcmX 1cm and a weight of 25g, and fixed on the surface of the lining which was fixed at a speed of 5cmZmin.
  • the dynamic friction coefficient () was calculated from the frictional resistance at that time using the following equation.
  • A represents the average value (gf) of the frictional resistance posted on the measuring device
  • B represents the weight (g) of the friction element.
  • the coefficient of friction was the average value of the value slid in the warp direction of the lining and the value when slid in the direction of the weft.
  • the weft crimp rate in fabrics is marked with a 20cm mark in the weft direction of the fabric, and then the weft yarn taken apart by disassembling the fabric is loaded with a fineness of 1Z10.
  • the distance L (cm) between the marks was measured and calculated by the following formula.
  • 56dtexZ24f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber (sheath core structure antistatic yarn) with a twist coefficient (K) of 260 for warp yarn
  • 56dtexZ30f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber with a W-shaped cross section for weft (long and short lengths)
  • K twist coefficient
  • warp yarn with a twist coefficient (K) of 7100 56dtexZ24f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber (sheath core antistatic yarn), and weft yarn with 84dtexZ45f cupra ammo rayon long fiber, 120 warp density Z2. 54cm, weft density 85 Z2. A 54cm plain fabric was woven.
  • a lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that a polyethylene terephthalate long fiber having a 84dtexZ36f round cross section was used as the weft in Example 3. Table of physical property results
  • a lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that non-twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate long fibers (antistatic yarn having a sheath core structure) whose warp was 56 dtex Z24f was used. Table 1 shows the physical property results.
  • the warp yarn has a twist coefficient (K) of 2100 (Example 6), 4260 (Example 7) and 7100 (Example 8) 56 dtexZ30f cupra ammo rayon long fiber and weft yarn of 56 dtexZ45f cupra ammo rayon long fiber.
  • K twist coefficient
  • This raw machine was subjected to scouring, filling, dyeing and finishing according to the method of Example 6 to obtain a lining.
  • Table 2 shows the physical property results.
  • Table 3 shows the physical property results.
  • Example 10 A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 10 except that the warp yarn of Example 10 was a non-twisted use of cupra-ammoray rayon filaments having 84 dtex Z45f. Table 3 shows the physical property results.
  • disperser TL Made by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd., Tamol type dispersant: lgZD, sodium sulfate 50gZl, finished with pad dry cure method, Sumitex resin NF-500K (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., non-formalin resin: 5wt%), Sumi Tex ACC X-110 (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., metal salt catalyst: 1.5 wt%), Nitsuka MS—IF (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., methylolamide softener: lwt%) After drying, preliminary drying (100 ° CX for 1 minute) and heat treatment for cross-linking (160 ° CX for 90 seconds) were performed to obtain a lining.
  • warp yarn with a twist coefficient (K) of 5200 84dtexZ33f viscose rayon long fiber and weft yarn with 110dtexZ44f piscose rayon long fiber warp density 136 Z2. 54cm, weft density 71 Z2. 54cm No. twill fabric.
  • DISPERSE BLUE 291: l% owf) and DISPER TL manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd., Tamol type dispersant: lgZD was used to dye diacetate at 95 ° C for 1 hour, followed by direct dye (C.
  • Example 6 Example 7
  • Example 8 Example ⁇ Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Number of warp twists s300 s600 s 1000 s S1825 s 150 S2300
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a stretch lining having an elongation of 8% or more in the weft direction without impairing the slipperiness. This makes it possible to provide a lining with excellent comfort.
  • the lining of the present invention is particularly suitable for lining garments having a stretch rate of 15% or more.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)

Abstract

To provide a stretch lining cloth having a weftwise stretchability of 8% or more without damaging slipperiness, a polyester-based continuous fiber or a cellulose-based continuous fiber having a twisting coefficient (K) of from 2000 to 15000 is employed as the warp yarn while a substantially non-twisted polyester-based continuous fiber or a cellulose-based continuous fiber is employed as the weft yarn, the individual monofilaments of the continuous fiber employed as the warp yarn are bundled together to give a round-shaped cross section of the warp yarn, and the bending hardness of the weft yarn is elevated compared with the warp yarn so that a crimping rate can be easily imparted to the weft yarn of the cloth. Owing to the above-described characteristics, the lining cloth thus obtained is comfortable with showing little stitch slippage or reduced feeling of tightness in wearing.

Description

明 細 書  Specification
緯ストレッチ裏地及びその製造法  Weft stretch lining and its manufacturing method
技術分野  Technical field
[0001] 本発明は、特定の緯ストレッチ裏地及びその製造法に関する。  [0001] The present invention relates to a specific weft stretch lining and a method for producing the same.
背景技術  Background art
[0002] 近年、衣料分野に於いて着用快適感を求める気運が高まり、ストレッチを謳った商 品が数多く見られるようになった。特に表地として使われる織物のストレッチ化が進行 し、それらに併せるかたちで裏地や芯地等の副資材にもストレッチ性が要求されるよ うになつた。そのため、裏地でも各種方法によりストレッチを持たせた商品がある。  [0002] In recent years, in the garment field, there has been an increase in the desire for wearing comfort, and many products with stretch have been seen. In particular, the fabric used for the outer fabric has been stretched, and in addition to this, the stretchability of the auxiliary materials such as the lining and interlining has also been required. For this reason, there are products that have stretches even on the lining by various methods.
[0003] 例えば、糸自体がゴムのように伸びるスパンデッタス糸を芯糸に用い、その周りにマ ルチフィラメントを卷きつけたカバリング糸を利用する方法が一般的に知られている。 この方法で得られた裏地は地厚感ゃフカツキ感が出易ぐ且つ、滑りも悪くなるため 裏地としてはそれ程波及していない。他の手段としては仮撚加工糸の嵩高性や捲縮 性を利用したものゃ仮撚加工糸の追撚糸や撚糸の解撚カを利用したもの等が挙げ られる。これらの方法で得られる裏地もフカツキ感ゃザラツキ感、シボ感等が発現し、 裏地としての品位は低 、ものであった。  [0003] For example, generally known is a method using a covering yarn in which a spunette yarn, in which the yarn itself extends like rubber, is used as a core yarn, and a multifilament is wound around the core yarn. The lining obtained by this method does not spread as much as the lining because the thickness of the lining is easy to squeeze and the slippage is also poor. Other means include those using the bulkiness and crimpability of false twisted yarn and those using false twisted yarn and twisted yarn. The lining obtained by these methods also exhibited a feeling of fluffiness, graininess, graininess, etc., and the quality of the lining was low.
[0004] 一方、特許文献 1には、経緯糸共に無撚糸を用いて、 5%以上、 12%未満の緯スト レツチ性を有する裏地が記載されている。また特許文献 2には、緯糸にポリトリメチレ ンテレフタレート糸を用いて、 3%以上、 30%未満の緯ストレッチ性を有する裏地が 記載されている。特許文献 1は緯糸に曲げ柔らカ 、もの（細単糸、偏平糸等）を用い ることで緯クリンプを発現させるものである。特許文献 2は緯糸に伸縮糸を用いて緯ク リンブを発現させる。しかし、これらの方法では平滑性を保持したまま高ストレッチ化 することは困難である。  [0004] On the other hand, Patent Document 1 describes a lining having weft stretchability of 5% or more and less than 12% using non-twisted yarns for both warp and weft yarns. Patent Document 2 describes a lining having a weft stretchability of 3% or more and less than 30% using polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn as weft. In Patent Document 1, a weft crimp is expressed by using a bending soft knives (fine single yarn, flat yarn, etc.) for the weft. In Patent Document 2, a weft crimp is expressed by using an elastic yarn as a weft. However, with these methods, it is difficult to achieve a high stretch while maintaining smoothness.
[0005] これらのように従来、緯方向にストレッチ性を有する裏地として、緯糸に伸縮性糸（ 弾性糸、有撚糸等）を用いるもの、経緯無撚糸で緯糸に曲げ柔らかい糸を用いるも の等が提案されている。しかし、最近の表地のストレッチは 15%〜20%前後ものが 増えてきており、前述の裏地で表地の伸びに対応させるためにこのように、良好な滑 り性とストレッチ性を充分満たし、最近の表地の高ストレッチ化に対応できる裏地が無 いのが実状である。 [0005] As described above, as a lining having a stretch property in the weft direction, a stretch yarn (elastic yarn, twisted yarn, etc.) is used for the weft yarn, a non-warp yarn is used for the weft yarn and a soft soft yarn is used. Has been proposed. However, the recent stretch of the outer material has increased by around 15% to 20%, and in order to cope with the growth of the outer material with the lining described above, a good slip is thus obtained. The reality is that there is no lining that can satisfy the high stretchability of the recent outer material, satisfying the stretchability and stretchability.
[0006] 特許文献 1 :国際公開 WO99Z31309号明細書  [0006] Patent Document 1: International Publication WO99Z31309 Specification
特許文献 2：特開 2001— 172843号公報  Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-172843
発明の開示  Disclosure of the invention
発明が解決しょうとする課題  Problems to be solved by the invention
[0007] 本発明の目的は、滑り性を損ねることなく緯方向の伸びが大きなストレッチ性を有す る着用快適性に優れた裏地を提供することにある。即ち、係る滑り性やストレッチ性能 の他に裏地の表面構造の尺度となるクリンプ指数を制御することにより着用時の着脱 性や縫目滑脱性、及び、動作追従性などが優れた裏地の提供を可能ならしめるもの である。 [0007] An object of the present invention is to provide a lining excellent in wearing comfort and having stretchability having a large elongation in the weft direction without impairing slipperiness. In other words, in addition to such slipperiness and stretch performance, by controlling the crimp index, which is a measure of the surface structure of the lining, it is possible to provide a lining that is excellent in detachability, seam slippage, and motion followability when worn. It is something that can be done if possible.
[0008] 本発明の更なる目的は、前記機能を有するポリエステル系長繊維 100%の裏地、 ポリエステル系長繊維とセルロース系長繊維の交織裏地、及びセルロース系長繊維 [0008] A further object of the present invention is to provide a polyester-based long fiber 100% lining having the above functions, a polyester-based continuous fiber / cellulosic continuous fiber lining, and a cellulose-based long fiber.
100%の裏地を提供することにある。 To provide 100% lining.
課題を解決するための手段  Means for solving the problem
[0009] 本発明者らは前記課題を解決するために、裏地の緯伸び率に直接反映する織物 中の緯糸クリンプ率を如何に高めるかを詳細に検討した結果、無撚糸を緯糸に用い た上で、経糸に適度な撚りを掛けることで生機に効率的に緯糸クリンプを付与するこ とが可能となり、付与された生機中の緯糸クリンプ率の高さが前駆体となって、後ェ 程 (精練'熱処理 ·セット)でストレッチ率に繋がる織物中の緯糸クリンプ率が容易に増 加することを見出し、本発明に到達したものである。ここで言うクリンプ率とは、生機や 最終仕上げ品の織物の緯方向に 20cmの印を付けた後、織物力も取り出した緯糸に 繊度の 1Z10の荷重を掛け、その時の印間長さ (L)から次式で算出される値である。  [0009] In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors have studied in detail how to increase the weft crimp rate in the woven fabric, which directly reflects the weft elongation rate of the lining, and as a result, untwisted yarn was used as the weft yarn. In the above, it is possible to efficiently give the weft crimp to the raw machine by applying an appropriate twist to the warp, and the high weft crimp rate in the given raw machine becomes a precursor, which will be described later. The inventors have found that the weft crimp rate in the woven fabric that leads to the stretch rate can be easily increased by (scouring'heat treatment · set), and the present invention has been achieved. The crimp rate here refers to the length between the marks (L) when a load of 1Z10 of fineness is applied to the weft yarn that has been marked with a 20cm mark in the weft direction of the fabric of the raw machine and the final finished product, and the fabric force is also taken out. Is calculated from the following equation.
クリンプ率（％) = { (L— 20)Z20} X 100 (3)  Crimp rate (%) = {(L— 20) Z20} X 100 (3)
即ち、本発明は、以下の通りである。  That is, the present invention is as follows.
[0010] [1]下式（1)で定義される撚り係数 (K)が 2000以上、 15000以下のポリエステル 系長繊維又はセルロース系長繊維を経糸に、実質的に無撚のポリエステル系長繊 維又はセルロース系長繊維を緯糸に用いてなる織物からなり、緯伸び率が 8%以上 、 20%以下、表面の動摩擦係数が 0. 20以上、 0. 40以下、下式（2)で定義されるク リンブ指数 (C)が 0. 007以上、 0. 015以下であることを特徴とする緯ストレッチ裏地 [0010] [1] Polyester long fibers having a twist coefficient (K) defined by the following formula (1) of 2000 or more and 15000 or less and having substantially no untwisting polyester fibers It consists of a woven fabric made of fibers or cellulosic long fibers for weft, and the weft elongation is 8% or more 20% or less, the dynamic friction coefficient of the surface is 0.20 or more, 0.40 or less, and the cribe index (C) defined by the following formula (2) is 0.007 or more and 0.0015 or less. Weft stretch lining
K= (0. 9 X D) 0 5 XT (1) K = (0. 9 XD) 0 5 XT (1)
C=製品の緯糸のクリンプ率 Z{M X (D) ° 5} (2) 式中、 Dは経糸繊度 (dtex)、 Tは撚糸回数 (tZm)、 Mは経糸密度 (本 Z2. 54cm )を意味する。 C = Crimp ratio of product weft Z {MX (D) ° 5 } (2) where D is the warp fineness (dtex), T is the number of twists (tZm), M is the warp density (this Z2. 54cm) means.
ここで、緯伸び率と動摩擦係数は後述する KES (カトーテック社製)法で計測される 値を意味する。  Here, the weft elongation and the dynamic friction coefficient mean values measured by the KES (Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) method described later.
[0011] [2]織物の緯伸び率が 12%以上、 20%以下である上記 [1]記載の緯ストレッチ裏 地。  [0011] [2] The weft stretch lining according to [1] above, wherein the weft elongation of the fabric is 12% or more and 20% or less.
[0012] [3]セルロース系長繊維がキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊維、ビスコース法レー ヨン長繊維及び精製セルロース長繊維である上記 [1]記載の緯ストレッチ裏地。  [3] The weft stretch lining according to the above [1], wherein the cellulosic long fibers are cupra ammon rayon long fibers, viscose rayon long fibers and purified cellulose long fibers.
[0013] [4]ポリエステル系長繊維がポリエチレンテレフタレート系長繊維である上記 [1]〜 [0013] [4] The above [1] to [4], wherein the polyester long fiber is a polyethylene terephthalate long fiber
[3]の 、ずれかに記載の緯ストレッチ裏地。  The weft stretch lining described in [3].
[0014] [5]生機状態で織物にアルカリ水溶液を付与した後、該織物を生機幅に対して 5〜[5] [5] After applying an alkaline aqueous solution to the woven fabric in the raw machine state,
30%の幅入れした状態で熱処理することを特徴とする上記 [1]〜 [3]の 、ずれかに 記載の緯ストレッチ裏地の製造方法。 The method for producing a weft stretch lining according to any one of [1] to [3] above, wherein the heat treatment is carried out in a state of 30% width.
発明の効果  The invention's effect
[0015] 本発明の裏地織物は、適度なストレッチ性を有するので着用時の圧迫性が低く運 動追従性にも優れる。また、滑脱が起こり難く保型性にも優れる。また、滑り性も良好 なため着脱が容易であるば力りか動き易さの点でも優れる。  [0015] The lining fabric of the present invention has an appropriate stretch property, and therefore has a low compressibility when worn and an excellent follow-up performance. In addition, slipping hardly occurs and the shape retention is excellent. In addition, since it has good sliding properties, it is excellent in terms of force and ease of movement if it can be easily attached and detached.
図面の簡単な説明  Brief Description of Drawings
[0016] [図 1]比較例 2における織物断面形状の電子顕微鏡写真である。 FIG. 1 is an electron micrograph of a cross-sectional shape of a fabric in Comparative Example 2.
[図 2]実施例 7における織物断面形状の電子顕微鏡写真である。  FIG. 2 is an electron micrograph of a cross-sectional shape of a fabric in Example 7.
発明を実施するための最良の形態  BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0017] 本発明について、以下具体的に説明する。 [0017] The present invention will be specifically described below.
[0018] 本発明の第一の特徴は、撚り係数 (K)が 2000以上、 15000以下のポリエステル 系長繊維又はセルロース系長繊維を経糸に、実質的に無撚のポリエステル系長繊 維又はセルロース系長繊維を緯糸に用いる点にある。 [0018] A first feature of the present invention is a polyester having a twist coefficient (K) of 2000 or more and 15000 or less. The long-lasting fibers or cellulose-based long fibers are used as warps, and the substantially non-twisted polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers are used as wefts.
[0019] 緯糸に無撚糸（原糸）を用いる場合、織物の緯伸び率は緯糸のクリンプ率にほぼ対 応することから、如何に緯糸に効率的にクリンプを付けるかが重要となる。本発明者ら は種々の検討からポリエステル系長繊維またはセルロース系長繊維にぉ ヽて生機段 階での緯糸のクリンプ率の大小が後工程 (精練工程、熱処理工程)で発現する緯糸 のクリンプ率と相関することを見出した。すなわち、生機の緯糸クリンプ率が大きいも の程、最終製品の緯ストレッチ率が大きくなる。  [0019] When a non-twisted yarn (raw yarn) is used as the weft, the weft elongation of the woven fabric substantially corresponds to the crimp rate of the weft, so it is important how to efficiently crimp the weft. Based on various studies, the present inventors have found that the crimp rate of the weft in the raw machinery stage is expressed in the subsequent process (scouring process, heat treatment process) for polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers. It was found to correlate with. In other words, the higher the weft crimp rate of the raw machine, the greater the weft stretch rate of the final product.
[0020] 従って、生機の緯糸クリンプ率を何らかの手段で高められれば、緯ストレッチ率を向 上させる事が可能となる。本願発明者らはその手段を種々検討した結果、経糸に撚り を与える事で生機の緯糸クリンプ率が向上し、それが最終製品の緯糸クリンプ率の向 上に繋がる事、即ち、緯伸びに反映されることを見出し本発明に到達したものである  [0020] Therefore, if the weft crimp rate of the raw machine can be increased by some means, the weft stretch rate can be improved. As a result of various investigations on the means, the inventors of the present application have improved the weft crimp rate of the raw machine by twisting the warp, which leads to an improvement in the weft crimp rate of the final product, that is, reflected in the weft elongation. And the present invention has been reached.
[0021] 経糸と緯糸が共に長繊維の無撚糸（原糸）からなる織物の場合、織物中の経糸と緯 糸の断面形状は、長繊維を構成する数十本の単糸間の拘束力が弱いため経糸と緯 糸は互いに相手糸に押え付けられ共に扁平となる。この場合、生機の緯糸クリンプ率 は極めて低いものとなり、後工程を如何に工夫しても高いストレッチを達成させる事は できない。 [0021] In the case of a woven fabric in which both the warp and the weft are made of non-twisted yarn (original yarn), the cross-sectional shape of the warp and the weft in the fabric is the binding force between several tens of single yarns constituting the long fiber. Because warp is weak, the warp and weft are pressed against each other and flattened together. In this case, the weft crimp rate of the raw machine becomes extremely low, and no high stretch can be achieved no matter how the subsequent process is devised.
[0022] 本発明で緯糸が無撚糸（原糸）使いでも従来技術より緯ストレッチ率が向上した技 術ポイントは、（1)経糸を特定条件で有撚ィヒさせる事により、経糸に使われる長繊維 の単糸を収束させ、経糸の断面形状を円形化せしめる事で緯糸のクリンプを形成し 易くした事、（2)経糸の有撚ィ匕で緯糸対比経糸の曲げ硬さを高め、曲げ柔かい緯糸 側にクリンプを付き易くした事、にある。即ち、経糸に特定条件の撚りをかける事で経 糸の断面形状を真円化させると共に曲げ硬さを高め、生機段階の緯糸に、より一層ク リンブが付き易くする事に成功し、本発明の緯ストレッチ裏地の創出が可能となった。 経糸の有撚化と緯糸の原糸使いが必須要件であり、後述するが緯糸には原糸の中 でも曲げ柔か 、ものを使用することが好まし 、。  [0022] In the present invention, even when wefts are non-twisted yarns (raw yarns), the technical point that the weft stretch rate is improved over the prior art is (1) used for warp yarns by twisting warp yarns under specific conditions. Converging single filaments of long fibers and rounding the cross-sectional shape of the warp facilitates the formation of crimps of the wefts. (2) Increases the bending hardness of the wefts in contrast to the twisted warps of the warp. The soft weft is easier to crimp on the side. In other words, the warp yarns were twisted under specific conditions to round the cross-sectional shape of the warp yarns, increase the bending hardness, and succeeded in making the weft yarns in the raw machinery stage more crisp. It became possible to create a stretch lining. Twisting of warp yarn and use of weft yarn are essential requirements. As will be described later, it is preferable to use a weft yarn that is bent or soft.
[0023] 従来の織物および本発明の裏地に用いられる織物の断面形状を比較するために、 後述する比較例 2の織物断面の電子顕微鏡写真を図 1に、実施例 7の織物断面の電 子顕微鏡写真を図 2にそれぞれ示す。これらの写真は、夫々染色前の精練幅入れ · 乾燥後の織物を、経糸断面が現われるようにカットし、金属蒸着した後電子顕微鏡で 観察した (この形態が最終仕上がり品の形態にほぼ近ぐ精練'仕上げ加工前の生 機状態での形態もこれらと相似形態を取っている)ものであり、経糸の断面形状と緯 糸のクリンプ形態を示す。 [0023] In order to compare the cross-sectional shapes of the conventional fabric and the fabric used in the backing of the present invention, An electron micrograph of the cross section of the fabric of Comparative Example 2 described later is shown in FIG. 1, and an electron micrograph of the cross section of the fabric of Example 7 is shown in FIG. These photographs show that after weaving and drying before dyeing, we cut the woven fabric after drying so that the warp cross section appears, and after metal deposition, we observed it with an electron microscope (this form is close to the form of the final finished product) The shape in the raw state before scouring and finishing is also similar to these), and shows the cross-sectional shape of the warp and the crimp shape of the weft.
[0024] 経糸の断面形状を比較すると、後述する撚り係数 (K) = 7100である撚糸を経糸に 用いた実施例 7と、撚り係数 (K) = 1050であって実質的に無撚に近い糸を経糸に 用いた比較例 2とでは、経糸断面の形状が異なり、それに伴い緯糸のクリンプ形態も 大幅に違っている事が判る。  [0024] Comparing the cross-sectional shape of the warp, Example 7 using a twisted yarn having a twisting coefficient (K) = 7100, which will be described later, and the twisting factor (K) = 1050 and substantially non-twisted It can be seen that the cross-sectional shape of the warp is different from Comparative Example 2 where the yarn is used as the warp, and the crimp form of the weft is significantly different.
[0025] 本発明に用いられる織物の経糸における好ましい撚糸条件は、撚糸回数および経 糸の繊度等によっても変化するため、本願発明では下記式（1)で示す撚り係数 (K) で規定している。  [0025] The preferred twisting conditions for the warp of the woven fabric used in the present invention vary depending on the number of twists, the fineness of the warp, and the like. Therefore, in the present invention, the twisting coefficient (K) represented by the following formula (1) is defined. Yes.
撚り係数 (K) = (0. 9 X D) °- 5 XT (1) Twist multiplier (K) = (0. 9 XD ) ° - 5 XT (1)
式中、 Dは経糸繊度 (dtex)、 Tは撚糸回数 (tZm)を意味する。  In the formula, D means warp fineness (dtex), and T means the number of twists (tZm).
[0026] 本発明では 2000以上、 15000以下の範囲の撚り係数 (K)の糸が経糸に用いられ る事を特徴とする。撚り係数 (K)が 2000未満の場合は無撚使いよりクリンプが形成さ れやすいものの、経糸断面の形状がやや扁平になるので充分なストレッチ裏地を得 ることが出来ない。  [0026] The present invention is characterized in that a yarn having a twist coefficient (K) in the range of 2000 or more and 15000 or less is used for the warp. When the twist coefficient (K) is less than 2000, crimps are more likely to be formed than when untwisted, but the warp cross-sectional shape becomes slightly flat, so that a sufficient stretch lining cannot be obtained.
[0027] 一方、撚り係数が 15000を越えると解撚し易くなりシボの発生やふかつき感が出易 くなつたり、見掛けの繊度が低下するため透け感が高まったり、ハリ感が出たりするの で好ましくない。  [0027] On the other hand, when the twisting coefficient exceeds 15000, untwisting is easy, and the occurrence of wrinkles and a feeling of wiping is easily generated, or the apparent fineness is lowered and the sense of sheer is increased or the feeling of tension is given. Therefore, it is not preferable.
[0028] 本発明に用いられる織物の緯糸に使用できる繊維としては、上述の撚り係数を有 するポリエステル系長繊維又はセルロース系長繊維が挙げられる。  [0028] Examples of the fiber that can be used in the weft of the woven fabric used in the present invention include polyester-based long fibers and cellulose-based long fibers having the above-described twist coefficient.
[0029] 本発明の経糸に用いられるポリエステル系長繊維としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレ ート、ポリブチレンテレフタレートなどのホモポリマー、これらポリマーらのポリエステノレ 共重合体などの繊維形成性を有するポリエステル重合体からなる繊維が用いられる 。滑り性等の面力もポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる繊維が好ましい。繊維中に制 電剤、難燃剤、耐熱剤、耐光剤、酸化チタン等の添加剤が添加されていても何ら差し 支えはない。繊維の断面形状は特に制限されるものではなぐ丸型の他に三角型、 L 型、 Y型、 T型、の多角形型でも良いし、多葉型、中空型や扁平型、不定形型など任 ,S (？ある。 [0029] Polyester long fibers used in the warp of the present invention include polyester polymers having fiber-forming properties such as homopolymers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyester copolymers of these polymers. A fiber consisting of is used. A fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate is also preferable in terms of surface force such as slipperiness. In the fiber There is no problem even if additives such as electrical agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-proofing agents and titanium oxide are added. The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, but may be a triangular shape, L shape, Y shape, T shape, polygonal shape, multileaf shape, hollow shape, flat shape, irregular shape, etc. Etc., S (?
[0030] また、経糸に用いられるセルロース系長繊維には、銅アンモニア法レーヨン、ピスコ ース法レーヨン、ポリノジックレーヨン、竹を原料とするセルロースなどの再生セルロー ス繊維、有機溶剤 (Nメチルモルフォリン Nオキサイド)紡糸される精製セルロース繊 維ゃジアセテートやトリアセテートなどのアセテート繊維などが代表例として挙げられ る。滑り性及び風合いの点力も銅アンモニア法レーヨン長繊維、ビスコース法レーヨン 長繊維、ポリノジックレーヨン長繊維が好ましい。  [0030] Cellulosic long fibers used for warp include copper ammonia rayon, piscose rayon, polynosic rayon, regenerated cellulose fibers such as cellulose made from bamboo, organic solvents (N-methylmorpholine). N oxide) purified cellulose fibers spun and acetate fibers such as diacetate and triacetate are representative examples. In terms of slip and texture, copper ammonia rayon long fibers, viscose rayon long fibers, and polynosic rayon long fibers are preferred.
[0031] 経糸に用いられるポリエステル系長繊維、セルロース系長繊維の繊度は好ましくは 33〜133デシテックス（(¾6 ）、ょり好ましくは56〜110(¾6 でぁる。単糸繊度は特 に限定されるものではないが好ましくは 0. 5〜10dtex、より好ましくは 0. 5〜5dtex である。  [0031] The fineness of the polyester-based long fibers and the cellulose-based long fibers used for the warp is preferably 33 to 133 dtex ((¾6), more preferably 56 to 110 (¾6. The single yarn fineness is particularly limited. Although not, it is preferably 0.5 to 10 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 5 dtex.
[0032] 一方、本発明の緯糸に使用できる繊維としては、実質的に仮撚りゃ撚糸等が施さ れていない無撚のポリエステル系長繊維又はセルロース系長繊維の原糸が挙げられ る。これらの原糸は実質的に無撚である力 フィラメントを収束させるためにインターレ ースの付与や軽度の撚り（10〜200tZm程度）をかけたりしても構わない。  [0032] On the other hand, examples of fibers that can be used in the wefts of the present invention include untwisted polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers that are not substantially subjected to false twisting. These yarns may be interlaced or lightly twisted (about 10 to 200 tZm) in order to converge a substantially untwisted force filament.
[0033] 本発明の緯糸に用いられるポリエステル系長繊維としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレ ート、ポリブチレンテレフタレートなどのホモポリマー、これらポリマーらのポリエステノレ 共重合体などの繊維形成性を有するポリエステル重合体からなる繊維が用いられる 。滑り性等の面力もポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる繊維が好ましい。繊維中に制 電剤、難燃剤、耐熱剤、耐光剤、酸化チタン等の添加剤が添加されていても何ら差し 支えはない。  [0033] Polyester long fibers used in the wefts of the present invention include polyester polymers having fiber-forming properties such as homopolymers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyester copolymers of these polymers. A fiber consisting of is used. A fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate is also preferable in terms of surface force such as slipperiness. There is no problem even if additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-proofing agents, and titanium oxide are added to the fiber.
[0034] また、緯糸に用いられるセルロース系長繊維は、銅アンモニア法レーヨン、ピスコ一 ス法レーヨン、ポリノジックレーヨン、竹を原料とするセルロースなどの再生セルロース 繊維、有機溶剤 (Nメチルモルフォリン Nオキサイド)紡糸される精製セルロース繊維 ゃジアセテートやトリアセテートなどのアセテート繊維などが挙げられる。滑り性及び 風合いの点力 銅アンモニア法レーヨン長繊維、ビスコース法レーヨン長繊維、ポリノ ジックレーヨン長繊維が好まし 、。 [0034] Cellulosic long fibers used for wefts include copper ammonia rayon, pisco rayon rayon, polynosic rayon, regenerated cellulose fibers such as cellulose made from bamboo, organic solvents (N-methylmorpholine N oxide) ) Purified cellulose fibers to be spun include acetate fibers such as diacetate and triacetate. Slipperiness and The strength of the texture Copper ammonia rayon long fiber, viscose rayon long fiber and polynosic rayon long fiber are preferred.
[0035] 緯糸に用いられるポリエステル系長繊維、セルロース系長繊維の繊度は好ましくは 33〜133デシテックス（(¾6 ）、ょり好ましくは56〜110(¾6 でぁる。単糸繊度は特 に限定されるものではないが好ましくは 0. 5〜10dtex、より好ましくは 0. 5〜5dtex である。  [0035] The fineness of the polyester-based long fibers and cellulose-based long fibers used for the weft is preferably 33 to 133 dtex ((¾6), more preferably 56 to 110 (¾6. The single yarn fineness is particularly limited. Although not, it is preferably 0.5 to 10 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 5 dtex.
[0036] 繊維の断面形状は特に制限されるものではないが、緯伸びを効率良く発現させる には曲げ柔かい原糸を用いた方が望ましい。丸断面形状の場合は単糸繊度が小さ V、すなわち単糸径が小さ 、方が好まし 、し、扁平度の高!、原糸を用いることが特に 好ましい。扁平形状は特に限定されないが、単なる扁平型ではなく W型、 I型、ブーメ ラン型、波型、串団子型等、実質的に扁平であり特定の方向に曲げ柔かい断面構造 を有する原糸が特に好ましい。  [0036] The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use a flexible yarn to make the weft elongation appear efficiently. In the case of a round cross-sectional shape, the single yarn fineness is small, that is, the single yarn diameter is small, and the flatness is high, and it is particularly preferable to use the raw yarn. The flat shape is not particularly limited, but it is not a simple flat type, but is a W type, I type, boomerang type, corrugated type, skewer type, etc. Particularly preferred.
[0037] 経糸と緯糸の素材の組み合わせには、ポリエステル系長繊維 100%の裏地、セル ロース系長繊維 100%の裏地、および、ポリエステル系長繊維とセルロース系長繊維 の交織裏地 2種、計 4種の組み合わせが存在するが何ら制限はな 、。  [0037] The combination of warp and weft materials includes 100% polyester long fiber lining, 100% cellulose long fiber lining, and 2 types of interwoven lining of polyester long fiber and cellulose long fiber. There are 4 types of combinations, but there are no restrictions.
[0038] 本発明の第二の特徴は、裏地に用いられる織物の緯伸び率が 8%以上、 20%以 下、織物表面の動摩擦係数が 0. 20以上、 0. 40以下、クリンプ指数 (C)が 0. 007 以上、 0. 015以下である点にある。  [0038] The second feature of the present invention is that the weft elongation of the fabric used for the lining is 8% or more and 20% or less, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is 0.20 or more, 0.40 or less, the crimp index ( C) is not less than 0.007 and not more than 0.015.
[0039] 本発明の目的である着用時の縫目の滑脱や圧迫感を抑制ならびに着用快適性に 優れた裏地を得るためには、裏地の緯方向の伸びと裏地表面の動摩擦係数が上記 の特定範囲に設計された織物でなければならない。即ち、本発明の裏地の緯伸びは 8%以上、 20%以下が好ましぐ更に好ましくは 10%以上、 20%以下、特に好ましく は 12%以上、 20%以下である。本発明裏地の緯伸び率は、撚り係数 (経糸繊度、撚 り数)や織物密度や加工条件 (幅入れ率）によって制御'調整することができる。  [0039] In order to obtain a lining that suppresses slipping of the seams and pressure when worn, which is the object of the present invention, and is excellent in wearing comfort, the elongation in the weft direction of the lining and the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining surface are as described above. The fabric must be designed for a specific area. That is, the weft elongation of the backing of the present invention is preferably 8% or more and 20% or less, more preferably 10% or more and 20% or less, and particularly preferably 12% or more and 20% or less. The weft elongation of the lining of the present invention can be controlled and adjusted by the twisting factor (warp fineness, number of twists), fabric density, and processing conditions (width filling rate).
[0040] 従来の 5〜10%程度の緯伸びを有する表地に対して、裏地に必要とされる緯伸び は「きせ (着心地を阻害しな!、ために表地のサイズより大きめに裏地を裁断し縫目近 辺で裏地を折り返し、裏地にゆとりを持たせること）」の存在や表地の保型性を考慮す ると、表地の緯伸びの 7割程度（3. 5〜7%)で充分対応可能である。しかし、前述し たように最近の表地の伸びは 15〜20%前後のものが主流となりつつあり、これらのス トレツチ表地に対応するためには裏地としてそれ以上の緯伸びが必要である。本発 明者らが緯伸び 15%の表地に緯伸びの異なる裏地を付けて着用試験を行った結果 、裏地の伸びとしては 8%以上あれば動作時にも圧迫感や不快感を感じることがな ヽ ことを確認した。一方、裏地の緯伸びが 20%を超えると緯糸のクリンプが大きくなるた め、表面のざらつきが増し滑り性が低下するので着用快適感が損なわれ望ましくない [0040] Compared to the conventional outer fabric with a stretch of about 5-10%, the required weft elongation is "Kise (do not impair comfort! Cutting and wrapping the lining around the seam to give the lining a clear space) and the shape retention of the outer material, about 70% (3.5 to 7%) Is sufficient. But as mentioned above In recent years, the growth of the outer surface is around 15-20%, and in order to cope with these struggles, further expansion is required as the lining. The present inventors conducted a wearing test with a lining with a different weft extension on a 15% weft stretch, and if the lining stretch is 8% or more, we may feel pressure and discomfort during operation. It was confirmed. On the other hand, if the weft elongation of the lining exceeds 20%, the crimp of the weft yarn becomes large, which increases the roughness of the surface and reduces the slipperiness, which is undesirable because it reduces the comfort of wearing.
[0041] また、裏地として必要とされる性能であるホッレ耐久性や緯糸の目よれ等を満足す るためには、（2)式で示されるクリンプ指数 (C)が特定の範囲に収まって 、る事が望 ましい。 [0041] Further, in order to satisfy the holle durability and the wetting of the wefts that are required for the lining, the crimp index (C) expressed by the equation (2) is within a specific range. I hope that
クリンプ指数 (C) =製品の緯糸のクリンプ率 Z{M X (D)0 5} (2) Crimp index (C) = Crimp rate of the product weft Z {MX (D) 0 5 } (2)
式中、 Dは経糸繊度 (dtex)、 Mは経糸密度 (本 Zインチ）を意味する。  In the formula, D means warp fineness (dtex), and M means warp density (Z inch).
[0042] クリンプ指数は、織物の緯伸びと経糸のカバーファクターに関して裏地の表面構造 を特定する尺度である。本発明裏地の織物単位でのクリンプ指数としては、 0. 007 以上、 0. 015以下の範囲にある事が好ましい。 0. 007未満になると緯糸のクリンプ 率が低く緯伸びが 8%未満の裏地となったり、経糸密度が多すぎたり経糸繊度が太 すぎると風合いが硬くなるので好ましくない。一方、 0. 015を越える場合は緯糸のタリ ンプ率が大きすぎるか経糸密度が少なすぎたり、経糸繊度が小さすぎて緯糸の緩ん だ織物構造となるため目よれやホッレが発生し易くなるので好ましくない。  [0042] The crimp index is a measure for specifying the surface structure of the lining in terms of the weft elongation of the fabric and the cover factor of the warp. The crimp index in the woven fabric unit of the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.007 or more and 0.0015 or less. If it is less than 0.007, it is not preferred that the weft crimp ratio is low and the weft elongation is less than 8%, the warp density is too high, or the warp fineness is too thick, the texture becomes hard. On the other hand, if it exceeds 0.015, the weft yarn is too large or the warp density is too low, or the warp fineness is too small and the weft structure is loose. It is not preferable.
[0043] 一方、着用快適感を左右する裏地特性として滑り性が挙げられる。滑り性を満足な ものにするためには裏地の動摩擦係数を 0. 20以上、 0. 40以下の範囲にする事が 必要である。  [0043] On the other hand, slipperiness is mentioned as a lining characteristic that affects the feeling of wearing comfort. In order to satisfy the slipperiness, the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining needs to be in the range of 0.20 or more and 0.40 or less.
[0044] 緯伸び率と比例して動摩擦係数も高くなる傾向にあるが、 0. 40以下であれば着用 感を損ねるものではない。 0. 4を越えると着脱性や肌触り性が悪く裏地としては好ま しくない。また、 0. 20未満の場合、例えばスカートを着用して椅子等に腰掛けた場 合に表地や素肌やパンティストキングなどとの滑りが良すぎる為に、スカートの裾部な どがずれ易くなつたり、体勢が崩れ易くなつたりするなどの支障をきたすので好ましく ない。 [0045] 本発明の裏地の織物組織としては、平織、綾織、朱子織などが挙げられる。何れの 織組織を採用するかは裏地の用途領域、要求特性などによって適宜決定すればよ い。例えば、婦人服に関しては、薄くてソフトな風合いが好まれることから、特に平組 織の裏地とする事が好ましい。紳士服の場合には、滑りとある程度の厚み感が必要と なるので綾組織の裏地とする事が好まし 、。 [0044] Although the coefficient of dynamic friction tends to increase in proportion to the weft elongation, the wear feeling is not impaired as long as it is 0.40 or less. If it exceeds 0.4, it is unpreferable as a lining due to poor detachability and touch. Also, if it is less than 0.20, for example when wearing a skirt and sitting on a chair etc., the skirt's hem and other parts may be easily slipped because the sliding with the outer material, bare skin, panty king, etc. is too good. , It is not preferable because it causes troubles such as losing posture. [0045] Examples of the woven structure of the lining of the present invention include plain weave, twill, satin weave and the like. Which woven structure should be used may be determined as appropriate according to the lining application area and required characteristics. For example, for ladies' clothes, a thin and soft texture is preferred, so that a plain fabric lining is particularly preferred. In the case of men's clothing, slipping and a certain amount of thickness are required, so it is preferable to line up the twill organization.
[0046] 本発明の裏地は後述する方法によって製造することができる。製造法は基本的に は引用文献 1に記載されている方法と同様で、生機を処理するに当たって生機の幅 に対して精練前又は精練後に 5〜30%の幅入れ熱処理を行なえばよい。即ち、緯 方向（幅方向）より経方向がより緊張状態となる状態で幅入れ処理することにより、緯 糸密度の増加を極力抑えながら経糸密度の増加に伴う織物の幅方向の組織収縮（ 緯糸にタリンプを形成させる）を起こさせることにより達成できるものである。  [0046] The backing of the present invention can be produced by the method described below. The manufacturing method is basically the same as the method described in the cited document 1, and when the raw machine is processed, the width of the raw machine may be 5-30% before or after scouring. That is, by performing the width insertion process in a state where the warp direction is more tensioned than the weft direction (width direction), the fabric shrinkage in the width direction of the fabric accompanying the increase in warp density (weft yarn) while suppressing the increase in the weft density as much as possible. To form a talymp).
[0047] 緯糸がポリエステル系長繊維の場合、生機織物を精練前又は精練後に生機幅に 対して 5〜30%の幅入れした状態で 160°C〜210°Cの熱処理を行うことで本発明裏 地を達成することができる。これは、生機織物中に形成された緯糸のクリンプと、ポリ エステル系長繊維の熱収縮率とを利用して、緯糸に高度にクリンプを形成させて緯 伸びを発現させる原理からなる。例えば、織物の加工時に熱処理機として一般的に 用いられて 、るピンテンター型のヒートセッターで熱処理する場合、製織後または精 練後の織物の両端を固定した状態で熱処理するが、その固定した幅を製織後または 精練後の織物幅より狭くして、且つ、経方向により緊張させた状態で処理すればよい 。ここで精練とは、製織後の織物に付着している油剤や経糸糊剤などを除去するェ 程である。この精練で用いられる処理液としては、水または界面活性剤とアルカリを 含む水溶液がよい。装置としては、織物の精練で一般的に使用されているオープン ソーパー型連続精練機、液流染色機、浴中懸垂型連続精練機、ゥインス精練機、ソ フサ一精練機などを用いれば良 、。  [0047] In the case where the weft is a polyester-based long fiber, the present invention can be performed by performing heat treatment at 160 ° C to 210 ° C in a state where the raw fabric is put into a width of 5 to 30% of the raw machinery width before or after scouring. Lining can be achieved. This is based on the principle that the weft is formed in the weft and the weft is formed by using the crimp of the weft formed in the raw fabric and the thermal shrinkage of the polyester long fiber. For example, in the case of heat treatment using a pin tenter type heat setter, which is generally used as a heat treatment machine when processing fabrics, heat treatment is performed with both ends of the fabric after weaving or scouring fixed, but the fixed width May be processed in a state where the width of the woven fabric is narrower than that after weaving or scouring and is more tensioned in the warp direction. Here, scouring is the process of removing oils and warp glues adhering to the woven fabric after weaving. The treatment liquid used in this scouring is preferably water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali. As an apparatus, an open soap type continuous scouring machine, a liquid dyeing machine, a suspension continuation type scouring machine, a Wins scouring machine, a soft scouring machine, etc. that are generally used for scouring fabrics may be used. .
[0048] 幅入れ熱処理及び精練を終了した後は、裏地の一般的な加工工程である染色、仕 上げ工程が適用される。風合いをよりソフトにする場合には、染色前にアルカリ減量 加工を行っても差し支えな 、。ポリエステル系長繊維の染色加工は通常の裏地の加 ェ方法が適用され、液流型染色機、ジッガー染色機、ビーム染色機、ゥインス染色機 などが使用できる。仕上げ加工についても同様で通常の裏地の加工方法を採用す ればよい。この仕上げ工程で、付加的に仕上げ剤として帯電防止剤、撥水剤、吸汗 剤などを付与する事ができる。又、織物表面の光沢、平滑性、風合いを改善するため にカレンダー処理やエンボス処理などを適用する事もできる。 [0048] After the width-setting heat treatment and scouring are finished, a dyeing and finishing process, which is a general processing process of the backing, is applied. If you want the texture to be softer, you can safely reduce the alkali before dyeing. For dyeing of polyester-based long fibers, the usual lining method is applied. Liquid dyeing machine, jigger dyeing machine, beam dyeing machine, Wins dyeing machine Etc. can be used. The same applies to the finishing process, and the normal lining processing method may be adopted. In this finishing step, an antistatic agent, a water repellent, a sweat absorbing agent and the like can be added as a finishing agent. In addition, calendering or embossing can be applied to improve the gloss, smoothness and texture of the fabric surface.
[0049] 緯糸にポリエステル系長繊維、経糸にセルロース系長繊維を用いた交織織物の場 合の染色加工では、まず上記と同様な方法で幅入れ、精練した後にポリエステル系 長繊維の染色を行う。次いで、セルロース系長繊維の染色を行う。この場合、ポリエス テル系長繊維を染色した染色機と同機を用いて染色しても良いし、コールドパッドバ ツチ法やパッドスチーム法ゃジッガー法による別の染色機を用いて染色する事もでき る。  [0049] In the dyeing process in the case of a union woven fabric using polyester long fibers for wefts and cellulose long fibers for warps, the widths are first put in the same manner as described above, and the polyester long fibers are dyed after scouring. . Next, cellulosic long fibers are dyed. In this case, it may be dyed using the same dyeing machine that dyes polyester long fibers, or it can be dyed using another dyeing machine such as cold pad batch method or pad steam method or jigger method. The
[0050] また、緯糸がセルロース系長繊維の場合、生機状態で織物に水、スチーム、アル力 リ水溶液を付与した後、該織物を生機幅に対して 5〜15%の幅入れした状態で 100 °C〜 210°Cの熱処理を行えばよ!/、。これは生機織物中に形成された緯糸のクリンプ とセルロース系長繊維が水によって生起する膨潤作用を最大限に利用して緯糸に高 度にクリンプを形成させて緯伸び発現させる原理力 なる。セルロース系長繊維が酢 酸セルロースの場合は、精練前に織物を生機幅に対して 5〜15%の幅入れした状 態で 160°C〜 210°Cの熱処理を行えば良 、。これは生機織物中に形成された緯糸 のクリンプと酢酸セルロース繊維の熱収縮率とを利用して緯糸に高度にクリンプを形 成させて緯伸び発現させる原理からなる。  [0050] When the weft is a cellulose-based long fiber, water, steam, and an aqueous solution of alcohol are applied to the fabric in the raw state, and then the fabric is put in a width of 5 to 15% of the width of the raw device. Heat treatment at 100 ° C ~ 210 ° C should be done! /. This is the principal force that causes the weft to form a high degree of crimp by making the best use of the swelling action of the weft crimp formed in the raw fabric and the cellulosic long fibers caused by water. When the cellulose-based long fiber is cellulose acetate, heat treatment at 160 ° C. to 210 ° C. may be performed in a state in which the woven fabric is inserted 5 to 15% of the width of the raw machine before scouring. This is based on the principle that a weft is formed in a weft fabric and a high degree of crimp is formed on the weft by using the crimp of the weft and the thermal shrinkage rate of cellulose acetate fiber.
[0051] 精練前の生機織物に水を付与するには、織物に均一に水を付与できる方法、例え ば、浸漬法ゃスプレー法やキスロール法などが挙げられる。加工コストや加工安定性 を考慮すると、浸漬法が好ましい。セルロース系長繊維の膨潤を更に大きくするため に水酸化ナトリウムや水酸化カリウム、炭酸ナトリウムなどのアルカリ性ィ匕合物を lOwt %程度まで添加する事もできる。水付与後に熱処理機として一般的に用いられてい るピンテンター型のヒートセッターで熱処理する場合、製織後または精練後の織物の 両端を固定した状態で熱処理する。その固定した幅を製織後または精練後の織物 幅より狭くして、且つ、経方向により緊張させた状態で処理すれば良い。幅入れ熱処 理及び精練を終了した後は、裏地の一般的な加工工程である染色、仕上げ工程が 適用される。 [0051] In order to impart water to the green fabric before scouring, a method that can uniformly impart water to the fabric, for example, an immersion method, a spray method, a kiss roll method, and the like can be given. In consideration of processing cost and processing stability, the dipping method is preferable. In order to further increase the swelling of the cellulose-based long fibers, an alkaline compound such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or sodium carbonate can be added up to about lOwt%. When heat treatment is performed with a pin tenter type heat setter generally used as a heat treatment machine after water application, the heat treatment is performed with both ends of the woven fabric after weaving or scouring fixed. What is necessary is just to process in the state which made the fixed width | variety narrower than the textile width after weaving or scouring, and was strained by the warp direction. After finishing the width heat treatment and scouring, the dyeing and finishing process, which is a general processing process of the lining, is completed. Applied.
[0052] 本発明の裏地は、上述された方法で得られた織物を用いることで、好適に得られる 実施例  [0052] The lining of the present invention can be suitably obtained by using the woven fabric obtained by the method described above.
[0053] 以下、本発明を実施例で具体的に説明するが、本発明は実施例のみに限定される ものではない。尚、測定方法、評価方法等は下記の通りである。  Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples. Measurement methods, evaluation methods, etc. are as follows.
[0054] (1)緯伸び率の評価 [0054] (1) Evaluation of latitude elongation
カトーテック（株）製の KES— FBIを用いて、 20cm X 20cmの織物を把持長（L) 5 cm、引っ張り速度 0. 2mmZ秒で緯方向に伸長し、 490NZmの応力下での伸び E (%)を次式により算出した。  Using KES-FBI manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., a 20cm x 20cm fabric was stretched in the weft direction with a gripping length (L) of 5cm, a pulling speed of 0.2mmZ seconds, and stretched under a stress of 490NZm E ( %) Was calculated by the following formula.
E (%) = ( A L/L) X 100 (4)  E (%) = (A L / L) X 100 (4)
ここで Δ Lは 490NZm応力下で伸びた長さ（cm)である。  Where Δ L is the length (cm) stretched under 490 NZm stress.
[0055] (2)動摩擦係数の評価 [0055] (2) Evaluation of dynamic friction coefficient
力トーテック (株）の KES— SEを用いて、金巾 3号精練上がりの綿布を摩擦面寸法 が lcmX 1cmで重量が 25gの摩擦子に取り付けて、 5cmZminの速度で固定した 裏地の表面上を滑らせ、その時の摩擦抵抗力から次式によって動摩擦係数（ ）を 求めたものである。式中の Aは測定器に掲示された摩擦抵抗力の平均値 (gf)、 Bは 摩擦子の重量 (g)をそれぞれ表わす。なお、摩擦係数は裏地の経糸方向に滑らした 値と緯糸方向に滑らせたときの値の平均値を裏地の動摩擦係数とした。  Using KES-SE from Tohtec Co., Ltd., scoured cotton cloth of No. 3 gold width was attached to a friction element with a friction surface size of lcmX 1cm and a weight of 25g, and fixed on the surface of the lining which was fixed at a speed of 5cmZmin. The dynamic friction coefficient () was calculated from the frictional resistance at that time using the following equation. In the equation, A represents the average value (gf) of the frictional resistance posted on the measuring device, and B represents the weight (g) of the friction element. The coefficient of friction was the average value of the value slid in the warp direction of the lining and the value when slid in the direction of the weft.
動摩擦係数（ ） =AZB (5)  Coefficient of dynamic friction () = AZB (5)
(3)織物中の緯糸クリンプ率  (3) Weft crimp rate in fabric
織物 (生機、仕上げ後の織物、裏地製品）中の緯糸クリンプ率は、織物の緯糸方向 に 20cmの印を付けた後、織物を分解して取り出した緯糸に繊度の 1Z10の荷重を かけ、そのときの印間長さ L (cm)を計測して次式により算出した。  The weft crimp rate in fabrics (raw machinery, finished fabrics, and lining products) is marked with a 20cm mark in the weft direction of the fabric, and then the weft yarn taken apart by disassembling the fabric is loaded with a fineness of 1Z10. The distance L (cm) between the marks was measured and calculated by the following formula.
緯糸のクリンプ率（％) ={(1^— 20) 720} 100 (3)  Weft crimp rate (%) = {(1 ^ — 20) 720} 100 (3)
(4)縫目滑脱  (4) Seam slipping
JIS— L— 1096法 (B法）に準拠して測定した。着用時には緯方向に応力が加わり 易 、ので緯方向の滑脱 (緯糸が滑脱する発生する緯糸上の経糸のズレ量)を計測し た。経方向 10cm (幅）、緯方向 17cm (長さ）のピースを長さの半分に折り、縫い代 lc mで本縫いし（針 11番、糸 50番ポリエステル糸、 5針 Zcm)、折り目を切断した。この ピースを引っ張り試験で定荷重（5kgZ2. 54cm)の負荷を掛け、無荷重で 1時間後 に 0. 5kg/2. 54cmの荷重を掛けその時の縫目ズレ量を縫目滑脱量とした。値は n = 3の平均値で算出した。 Measured according to JIS-L-1096 method (B method). When wearing, it is easy to apply stress in the weft direction, so we measure the slippage in the weft direction (the amount of warp displacement on the weft where the weft slips) It was. Fold a piece 10cm (width) in the warp direction and 17cm (length) in the weft direction into half the length, and sew with a seam allowance of lc m (needle No. 11, yarn No. 50 polyester yarn, 5 needles Zcm) and cut the crease did. This piece was subjected to a constant load (5kgZ2.54cm) in a tensile test, and 0.5kg / 2.54cm was applied after 1 hour with no load applied. The value was calculated as an average value of n = 3.
[0056] 以下、実施例 1〜5、比較例 1に於いて、経糸にポリエステル系長繊維を用いた場 合の実例を開示する。  [0056] Hereinafter, in Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 1, actual examples in which polyester-based long fibers are used for warp are disclosed.
[0057] 〔実施例 1〕  [Example 1]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)力 260の 56dtexZ24fのポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維（ 鞘芯構造の制電糸）、緯糸に断面形状が W型をした 56dtexZ30fポリエチレンテレ フタレート長繊維 (長径と短径の長さの比は約 3： 1)の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 12 2本 Z2. 54cm,緯糸密度 99本 Z2. 54cmの平織物を製織した。  56dtexZ24f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber (sheath core structure antistatic yarn) with a twist coefficient (K) of 260 for warp yarn, 56dtexZ30f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber with a W-shaped cross section for weft (long and short lengths) A plain fabric with a warp density of 12 2 Z2. 54 cm and a weft density of 99 Z2. 54 cm was woven using untwisted yarn with a ratio of about 3: 1).
[0058] この生機をピンテンターにより、 190°C X 30秒の条件で生機織物幅に対して 15% の幅入れを行った。次にオープンソーパー型の連続精練機を用いて、 90°Cの水酸 化ナトリウム 5gZlとノ-オン系界面活性剤 2gZlを含む浴で精練した後、湯洗 (80°C ) ·脱水 ·乾燥（120°C)した。引き続き、パッドスチーム法にて水酸ィ匕ナトリウム 125g Zl、ネオレート NA30 (日華化学社製：アルキルホスフェート系浸透剤 lOg/1)を含 む処理液を含浸 ·絞液 (絞り率 40wt%)して連続アルカリ減量を行い、常法にて中和 •湯洗 ·乾燥を行った。染色は液流染色機を用い、分散染料 (C. I DISPERSE B LUE 291： l%owf)とデイスパー TL (明成化学社製、：タモール型分散剤 lg/1) と PH調整剤（酢酸: 0. 5ccZD力もなる浴で 130°C X 30分染色し、その後還元洗浄 を経て染色織物を得た。力かる織物を NKガード FGN800 (日華化学社製、フッ素系 撥水剤： lwt%)とミユウロン AS222 (ミヨシ油脂社製、カチオン系制電剤： lwt%)か らなる水溶液を用いて、パッドドライキュア法 (予備乾燥 100°C X 1分、本乾燥 180°C X 30秒)で仕上げられた織物を使用して裏地を得た。物性結果を表 1に示す。  [0058] Using a pin tenter, the green machine was placed at a width of 15% with respect to the green machine fabric width at 190 ° C for 30 seconds. Next, using an open soap type continuous scourer, scouring in a bath containing 5gZl of sodium hydroxide at 90 ° C and 2gZl of non-ionic surfactant, then washing in hot water (80 ° C) · dehydration · drying (120 ° C). Subsequently, impregnated with a treatment liquid containing 125 g Zl of sodium hydroxide and neolate NA30 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd .: alkyl phosphate penetrant lOg / 1) by the pad steam method. After continuous alkali weight loss, neutralization, hot water washing and drying were performed in a conventional manner. Dyeing using a liquid dyeing machine, disperse dye (C. I DISPERSE B LUE 291: l% owf), Disper TL (Maisei Chemical Co., Ltd .: Tamol type dispersant lg / 1) and PH adjuster (acetic acid: 0 After dyeing in a bath with 5ccZD power at 130 ° CX for 30 minutes, the dyed fabric was obtained through reduction cleaning.The strong fabric was NK guard FGN800 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., fluorine water repellent: lwt%) and Miyuron. Fabric finished with pad dry cure method (pre-drying 100 ° CX for 1 minute, main drying 180 ° CX for 30 seconds) using an aqueous solution consisting of AS222 (manufactured by Miyoshi Yushi Co., Ltd., cationic antistatic agent: lwt%) The results are shown in Table 1.
[0059] 〔実施例 2〕  [Example 2]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)力 260の 56dtexZ24fのポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維（ 鞘芯構造の制電糸）、緯糸に断面形状が W型をした 84dtexZ30fポリエチレンテレ フタレート長繊維 (長径と短径の長さの比は約 3： 1)の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 1184dtexZ30f polyethylene telegraph with 56dtexZ24f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber (sheath core antistatic yarn) with twist coefficient (K) of 260 for warp and W-shaped cross section for weft Using untwisted yarn of phthalate long fiber (the ratio of the length of the major axis to the minor axis is about 3: 1), the warp density is 11
7本 Z2. 54cm,緯糸密度 80本 Z2. 54cmの平織物を製織した。 A plain fabric of 7 pieces Z2. 54cm, weft density 80 pieces Z2. 54cm was woven.
[0060] この生機をピンテンターにより、 195°C X 30秒の条件で生機織物幅に対して 18% の幅入れを行った。精練 ·連続アルカリ減量 ·染色 ·仕上げ加工は実施例 1と同様の 方法で行い裏地を得た。物性結果を表 1に示す。 [0060] Using a pin tenter, this raw machine was put in a width of 18% with respect to the raw machine fabric width under the condition of 195 ° C x 30 seconds. Scouring, continuous alkali weight loss, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a lining. Table 1 shows the physical property results.
[0061] 〔実施例 3〕 [Example 3]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)が 7100の 56dtexZ24fのポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維（ 鞘芯構造の制電糸）、緯糸に丸断面の 84dtexZ70fポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊 維の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 120本 Z2. 54cm、緯糸密度 82本 Z2. 54cmの平 織物を製織した。  Polyethylene terephthalate filaments with 56dtexZ24f with a twist coefficient (K) of 7100 for warp yarns (corresponding sheath-core antistatic yarns), and weft yarns with untwisted yarns of 84dtexZ70f polyethylene terephthalate filaments with a round cross section. A plain fabric of 54cm, weft density of 82, Z2. 54cm was woven.
[0062] この生機をピンテンターにより、 190°C X 30秒の条件で生機織物幅に対して 16% の幅入れを行った。精練 ·アルカリ減量 ·染色 ·仕上げ加工は実施例 1と同様の方法 で行い裏地を得た。物性結果を表 1に示す。  [0062] Using a pin tenter, the green machine was placed at a width of 16% with respect to the green machine fabric width under the condition of 190 ° C x 30 seconds. Scouring, alkali reduction, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a lining. Table 1 shows the physical property results.
[0063] 〔実施例 4〕  [Example 4]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)が 7100の 56dtexZ24fのポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維（ 鞘芯構造の制電糸）、緯糸に 84dtexZ45fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊維を 用いて、経糸密度 120本 Z2. 54cm、緯糸密度 85本 Z2. 54cmの平織物を製織し た。  Using warp yarn with a twist coefficient (K) of 7100, 56dtexZ24f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber (sheath core antistatic yarn), and weft yarn with 84dtexZ45f cupra ammo rayon long fiber, 120 warp density Z2. 54cm, weft density 85 Z2. A 54cm plain fabric was woven.
[0064] この生機を 25°Cの水に約 5秒浸漬した後、脱液機にて絞り率 48%にしたあと連続 的にピンテンターにて、製織後の織物幅に対して 14%の幅入れを 170°C X 30秒の 条件で行った。精練は実施例 1と同様にオープンソーパー型連続精練機を用いて行 つた。染色は液流染色機を用いて 130°Cで 60分行った。染色条件は浴比 1 : 20、浴 PH5. 5、薬剤としては分散染料（C. I DISPERSE BLUE 291 : l%owf)、直 接染料（C. I DIRECT BLUE 291： l%owf)、デイスパー TL (明成化学社製、 タモール型分散剤： lgZD、硫酸ナトリウム 50gZlを用いた。仕上げ加工はパッドド ライキュア法で、スミテックスレジン NF— 500K (住友化学社製、ノンホルマリン系榭 脂： 5wt%)、スミテックス ACC X— 110 (住友化学社製、金属塩系触媒： 1. 5wt% )、ニツカ MS— IF (日華化学社製、メチロールアミド系柔軟剤： lwt%)を用いて、デ イッブ. -ップ後、予備乾燥（100°C X 1分)し架橋のための熱処理（160°C X 90秒） を行い、裏地を得た。物性結果を表 1に示す。 [0064] After this green machine was immersed in water at 25 ° C for about 5 seconds, the drawing rate was reduced to 48% with a dewatering machine, and then continuously with a pin tenter, a width of 14% with respect to the fabric width after weaving. Insertion was performed at 170 ° CX for 30 seconds. Scouring was carried out using an open soap type continuous scouring machine in the same manner as in Example 1. Dyeing was performed at 130 ° C for 60 minutes using a liquid dyeing machine. Dyeing conditions are bath ratio 1:20, bath PH 5.5, disperse dye (C. I DISPERSE BLUE 291: l% owf), direct dye (C. I DIRECT BLUE 291: l% owf), Disper TL (Maysei Chemical Co., Ltd., Tamol type dispersant: lgZD, sodium sulfate 50gZl. Finishing is pad dry cure method, Sumitex resin NF-500K (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., non-formalin type resin: 5wt%), Using Sumitex ACC X-110 (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., metal salt catalyst: 1.5 wt%), Nitsuka MS-IF (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., methylolamide softener: lwt%), After drying, pre-drying (100 ° CX for 1 minute) and heat treatment for crosslinking (160 ° CX for 90 seconds) gave a lining. Table 1 shows the physical property results.
[0065] 〔実施例 5〕 [Example 5]
実施例 3において緯糸に 84dtexZ36f丸型断面のポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊 維を用いる以外は、すべて実施例 2と同様の方法で行い裏地を得た。物性結果を表 A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that a polyethylene terephthalate long fiber having a 84dtexZ36f round cross section was used as the weft in Example 3. Table of physical property results
1に示す。 Shown in 1.
[0066] 〔比較例 1〕 [Comparative Example 1]
実施例 1の経糸が 56dtexZ24fのポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維（鞘芯構造の 制電糸）の無撚糸使い以外は、すべて実施例 1と同様の方法で行い裏地を得た。物 性結果を表 1に示す。  A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that non-twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate long fibers (antistatic yarn having a sheath core structure) whose warp was 56 dtex Z24f was used. Table 1 shows the physical property results.
[0067] 以下の実施例 6〜13、比較例 2〜4に於いて、経糸にセルロース系長繊維を用い た場合の実例を開示する。  [0067] In Examples 6 to 13 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 below, actual examples in which cellulosic long fibers are used for warp are disclosed.
[0068] 〔実施例 6〜8〕  [Examples 6 to 8]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)が 2100 (実施例 6)と 4260 (実施例 7)と 7100 (実施例 8)の 56 dtexZ30fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊維、緯糸に 56dtexZ45fのキュプラ アンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊維の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 136本 Z2. 54cm,緯糸 密度 103本 Z2. 54cmの平織物を製織した。  The warp yarn has a twist coefficient (K) of 2100 (Example 6), 4260 (Example 7) and 7100 (Example 8) 56 dtexZ30f cupra ammo rayon long fiber and weft yarn of 56 dtexZ45f cupra ammo rayon long fiber. A plain fabric with a warp density of 136 Z2. 54 cm and a weft density of 103 Z2. 54 cm was woven using non-twisted yarn.
[0069] この生機を製織後の織物幅に対しておよそ 12%の幅入れを行うためにオープンソ 一パー型の連続精練機を用いて、 30°Cの 3. 15wt%水酸ィ匕ナトリウム水溶液（5° ボーメ）に浸漬した後、湯洗 (80°C) ·水洗を繰り返し脱水 ·乾燥（120°C)させた。実 質的な幅入れ率は、撚り係数が高くなるほど高くなつた（実施例 6は 9. 5%、実施例 7 は 10. 2%、実施例 8は 11. 2%) o染色はコールドバッチ法で 25°Cで 15時間行った 。染料にはビュルスルフォン系反応染料（SUMIFIX NAVY BLUE GS : l%ow f)を、水酸ィ匕ナトリウム lOgZlを用いた。引き続く仕上げ加工は実施例 4の処方に準 じて実施し、裏地を得た。但し、榭脂と触媒濃度は 2倍量使用した。物性結果を表 2 に示す。  [0069] Using an open soper type continuous scouring machine to put the raw machine into a width of about 12% of the woven fabric width after weaving, 3.15 wt% sodium hydroxide at 30 ° C After being immersed in an aqueous solution (5 ° Baume), hot water washing (80 ° C) · water washing was repeated and dehydrated and dried (120 ° C). The actual filling ratio became higher as the twisting factor became higher (9.5% in Example 6, 10.2% in Example 7, and 11.2% in Example 8). For 15 hours at 25 ° C. As the dye, bursulfone reactive dye (SUMIFIX NAVY BLUE GS: l% ow f) and sodium hydroxide lOgZl were used. Subsequent finishing was performed according to the formulation of Example 4 to obtain a lining. However, double the amount of rosin and catalyst concentration was used. Table 2 shows the physical property results.
[0070] 〔比較例 2〜3〕  [Comparative Examples 2-3]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)が 1060 (比較例 2)と 16300 (比較例 3)の 56dtexZ30fのキ ュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊維、緯糸に 56dtexZ45fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレ 一ヨン長繊維の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 136本 Z2. 54cm,緯糸密度 103本 Z2 . 54cmの平織物を製織した。 56dtexZ30f key with twist factor (K) of 1060 (Comparative Example 2) and 16300 (Comparative Example 3) A plain woven fabric with a warp density of 136 Z2. 54 cm and a weft density of 103 Z2.54 cm was woven using cupraammo rayon long fiber and 56dtexZ45f cupra ammouleon long fiber non-twisted yarn.
この生機を実施例 6の方法の準じて精練 '幅入れ、染色、仕上げ加工を行い、裏地を 得た。物性結果を表 2に示す。  This raw machine was subjected to scouring, filling, dyeing and finishing according to the method of Example 6 to obtain a lining. Table 2 shows the physical property results.
[0071] 〔実施例 9〕 [Example 9]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)が 14100の 66dtexZ36fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長 繊維を SSZZ2本交互使!、で用い、緯糸に 84dtexZ45fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレ 一ヨン長繊維を用いて、経糸密度 118本 Z2. 54cm、緯糸密度 83本 Z2. 54cmの 平織物を製織した。この生機を実施例 6の方法の準じて精練 ·幅入れ、染色、仕上げ 加工を行い、裏地を得た。物性結果を表 2に示す。  Use a pair of 66dtexZ36f cupra-ammo rayon long fibers with a twist coefficient (K) of 14100 for warp yarns, alternately using two SSZZ! A flat woven fabric of 54cm and weft density of 83 Z2. 54cm was woven. This raw machine was subjected to scouring / width filling, dyeing and finishing according to the method of Example 6 to obtain a lining. Table 2 shows the physical property results.
[0072] 〔実施例 10〕 [Example 10]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)が 14200の 84dtexZ45fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長 繊維を SSZZ2本交互使!、で用い、緯糸に 84dtexZ45fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレ 一ヨン長繊維の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 113本 Z2. 54cm,緯糸密度 72本 Z2. Use two SSZZs of 84dtexZ45f cupra ammo rayon long fiber with a twist coefficient (K) of 14200 for the warp yarn, and use a twisted yarn of 84dtexZ45f cupra ammo rayon long fiber for the weft yarn. Z2. 54cm, weft density 72 Z2.
54cmの平織物を製織した。この生機を実施例 6の方法の準じて精練 '幅入れ、染色A 54 cm plain fabric was woven. This raw machine is scoured according to the method in Example 6
、仕上げ加工を行い、裏地を得た。物性結果を表 3に示す。 Finished and got a lining. Table 3 shows the physical property results.
[0073] 〔比較例 4〕 [Comparative Example 4]
実施例 10の経糸が 84dtexZ45fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊維の無撚使 い以外は、すべて実施例 10と同様の方法で行い裏地を得た。物性結果を表 3に示 す。  A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 10 except that the warp yarn of Example 10 was a non-twisted use of cupra-ammoray rayon filaments having 84 dtex Z45f. Table 3 shows the physical property results.
[0074] 〔実施例 11〕  [Example 11]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)が 7100の 56dtexZ30fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊 維、緯糸に断面形状が W型をした 84dtexZ30fポリエチレンテレフタレート長繊維 ( 長径と短径の長さの比は約 3 : 1)の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 136本 Z2. 54cm, 緯糸密度 85本 Z2. 54cmの平織物を製織した。  56dtexZ30f cupra-ammo rayon long fiber with twist coefficient (K) of 7100 for warp yarn, 84dtexZ30f polyethylene terephthalate long fiber with W-shaped cross section for weft yarn A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 136 Z2. 54 cm and a weft density of 85 Z2. 54 cm was woven.
[0075] この生機をピンテンターにより、 190°C X 30秒の条件で生機織物幅に対して 12% の幅入れを行った。精練は実施例 1と同様にオープンソーパー型連続精練機を用い て行った。染色は液流染色機を用いて 130°Cで 60分行った。染色条件は浴比 1 : 20 、浴 PH5. 5、薬剤としては分散染料（C. I DISPERSE BLUE 291 : l%owf)、 直接染料（C. I DIRECT BLUE 291 : l%owf)、デイスパー TL (明成化学社製 、タモール型分散剤： lgZD、硫酸ナトリウム 50gZlを用いた。仕上げ加工はパッドド ライキュア法で、スミテックスレジン NF— 500K (住友化学社製、ノンホルマリン系榭 脂： 5wt%)、スミテックス ACC X— 110 (住友化学社製、金属塩系触媒： 1. 5wt% )、ニツカ MS— IF (日華化学社製、メチロールアミド系柔軟剤： lwt%)を用いて、デ イッブ. -ップ後、予備乾燥（100°C X 1分)し架橋のための熱処理（160°C X 90秒） を行い、裏地を得た。物性結果を表 3に示す。 [0075] Using a pin tenter, this green machine was placed at a width of 12% with respect to the green machine fabric width at 190 ° C x 30 seconds. For scouring, use an open soap type continuous scouring machine as in Example 1. I went. Dyeing was performed at 130 ° C for 60 minutes using a liquid dyeing machine. Dyeing conditions are bath ratio 1:20, bath PH5.5, chemicals are disperse dyes (C. I DISPERSE BLUE 291: l% owf), direct dyes (C. I DIRECT BLUE 291: l% owf), disperser TL ( Made by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd., Tamol type dispersant: lgZD, sodium sulfate 50gZl, finished with pad dry cure method, Sumitex resin NF-500K (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., non-formalin resin: 5wt%), Sumi Tex ACC X-110 (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., metal salt catalyst: 1.5 wt%), Nitsuka MS—IF (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., methylolamide softener: lwt%) After drying, preliminary drying (100 ° CX for 1 minute) and heat treatment for cross-linking (160 ° CX for 90 seconds) were performed to obtain a lining.
[0076] 〔実施例 12〕  [Example 12]
経糸に撚り係数 (K)が 5200の 84dtexZ33fのビスコース法レーヨン長繊維、緯糸 に 110dtexZ44fのピスコース法レーョン長繊維の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 136 本 Z2. 54cm,緯糸密度 71本 Z2. 54cmの綾織物を製織した。  Using warp yarn with a twist coefficient (K) of 5200 84dtexZ33f viscose rayon long fiber and weft yarn with 110dtexZ44f piscose rayon long fiber, warp density 136 Z2. 54cm, weft density 71 Z2. 54cm No. twill fabric.
[0077] この生機を実施例 6に準拠して精練 '幅入れ、染色、仕上げ加工を行い、裏地を得 た。物性結果を表 3に示す。  [0077] This raw machine was subjected to scouring, filling, dyeing and finishing according to Example 6 to obtain a lining. Table 3 shows the physical property results.
[0078] 〔実施例 13〕  [Example 13]
経糸に撚り係数が 7100の 56dtexZ30fのキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊維、 緯糸に 84dtexZ20fのジアセテート長繊維の無撚糸を用いて、経糸密度 136本 Z2 . 54cm,緯糸密度 80本 Z2. 54cmの平織物を製織した。  A plain fabric with a warp density of 136 Z2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 Z2. Weaved.
[0079] 生機を 25°Cの水に約 5秒浸漬した後、脱液機で絞り率 51%にしたあと連続的にピ ンテンターにて、製織後の織物幅に対して 10%の幅入れを 190°C X 30秒の条件で 行った。精練は実施例 1に準拠して行った。染色はジッガー染色法で分散染料 (C. I [0079] After immersing the raw machine in water at 25 ° C for about 5 seconds, after reducing the drawing ratio to 51% with a dewatering machine, continuously put it in a width of 10% with respect to the woven fabric width after weaving. Was carried out at 190 ° CX for 30 seconds. Scouring was performed according to Example 1. Dyeing is performed by the Zigger dyeing method.
DISPERSE BLUE 291： l%owf)とデイスパー TL (明成化学社製、タモール 型分散剤： lgZDを用いて 95°Cで 1時間ジアセテートを染めた後、直接染料 (C. I DIRECT BLUE 291： l%owf)と硫酸ナトリウム 50gZlを用いてキュプラアンモ- ゥムレーヨンを染めた。仕上げ力卩ェはパッドドライキュア法で、スミテックスレジン NF - 500K (住友化学社製、ノンホルマリン系榭脂： 5wt%)、スミテックス ACC X— 11 0 (住友化学社製、金属塩系触媒： 1. 5wt%)、ニツカ MS— IF (日華化学社製、メチ ロールアミド系柔軟剤： lwt%)を用いて、ディップ' -ップ後、予備乾燥（100°CX 1 分)し架橋のための熱処理（160°C X 90秒)を行 、、裏地を得た。物性結果を表 3に 示す。 DISPERSE BLUE 291: l% owf) and DISPER TL (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd., Tamol type dispersant: lgZD was used to dye diacetate at 95 ° C for 1 hour, followed by direct dye (C. I DIRECT BLUE 291: l Cupra ammo rayon was dyed using 50% Zl sodium sulfate and 50 g Zl.The finishing force was pad dry cure, Sumitex resin NF-500K (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., non-formalin type resin: 5wt%) Sumitex ACC X—110 (Sumitomo Chemical Co., metal salt catalyst: 1.5 wt%), Nitsuka MS—IF (Nikka Chemical Co., Roll amide softener: lwt%), after dipping, pre-dried (100 ° CX for 1 minute) and subjected to heat treatment for crosslinking (160 ° CX for 90 seconds) to obtain a lining . Table 3 shows the physical property results.
[0080] [表 1] [0080] [Table 1]
Figure imgf000018_0001
Figure imgf000018_0001
[0081] [表 2] 実施例 6 実施倒 7 実施俩 8 実施例 Θ 比較例 2 比較例 3 経糸撚糸回数 s300 s600 s 1000 s S1825 s 150 S2300[0081] [Table 2] Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example Θ Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Number of warp twists s300 s600 s 1000 s S1825 s 150 S2300
(t/m) (t / m)
聽数 2100 Ξ60 71(H) 14100 1060 16300 生機密度 (経/緯） 136/103 136 Ί03 136/103 118/83 136/103 136/103 本 ,S!, 54cm  聽 2100 Ξ60 71 (H) 14100 1060 16300 Density of raw machine (W / L) 136/103 136 Ί03 136/103 118/83 136/103 136/103 pcs, S !, 54cm
製品密度（経/ !*) 150X105 146/106 156/107 本/ ¾, 54cm  Product density (W /! *) 150X105 146/106 156/107 book / ¾, 54cm
緯伸び率 (%) 10,】 12,4 12.1 17.6 7.7  Wet elongation (%) 10,] 12,4 12.1 17.6 7.7
動摩擦係数 0.28 J 0.315 0.306 0.291 0.280 0.483 縫目滑脱抵抗 (nun) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.2 0.7 0.5 目よれ状態 問題なし 問題なし 聞題なし 隱なし 問題なし 題なし クリンプ指数 0, 0085 0,0103 0,0102 O.OH2 0.0068 0.0082 備考 シボ感 ·ザラ ツキ感あり [0082] [表 3] Coefficient of dynamic friction 0.28 J 0.315 0.306 0.291 0.280 0.483 Seam slip resistance (nun) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.2 0.7 0.5 Shaking condition No problem No problem No question No problem No problem No problem Crimp index 0, 0085 0,0103 0,0102 O .OH2 0.0068 0.0082 Remarks Wrinkle / Rough feeling [0082] [Table 3]
Figure imgf000019_0001
産業上の利用可能性
Figure imgf000019_0001
Industrial applicability
[0083] 本発明の目的は、滑り性を損ねることなく緯方向の伸びが 8%以上のストレッチ裏地 を提供することにあり、力かる性能により着用時の縫目の滑脱や圧迫感の少ない着 用快適性に優れた裏地の提供を可能ならしめるものである。本発明の裏地は特に表 地のストレッチ率が 15%以上の衣料の裏地に好適である。  [0083] An object of the present invention is to provide a stretch lining having an elongation of 8% or more in the weft direction without impairing the slipperiness. This makes it possible to provide a lining with excellent comfort. The lining of the present invention is particularly suitable for lining garments having a stretch rate of 15% or more.

Claims

請求の範囲 The scope of the claims
[1] 下記（1)で定義される撚り係数 (K)が 2, 000以上、 15, 000以下のセルロース系 長繊維又はポリエステル系長繊維を経糸に、無撚のセルロース系長繊維又はポリェ ステル系長繊維を緯糸に用いてなる織物からなり、緯伸び率が 8%以上、 20%未満 、表面の動摩擦係数が 0. 20以上、 0. 40以下、下記（2)で定義されるクリンプ指数 ( C)が 0. 007以上、 0. 015以下である事を特徴とする緯ストレッチ裏地。  [1] Untwisted cellulosic long fibers or polyester with warp yarns of cellulose long fibers or polyester long fibers having a twist coefficient (K) of 2,000 or more and 15,000 or less as defined in (1) below Crimp index defined by (2) below, consisting of woven fabric using long fibers as wefts, weft elongation of 8% or more and less than 20%, surface dynamic friction coefficient of 0.20 or more and 0.40 or less A weft stretch lining characterized in that (C) is not less than 0.007 and not more than 0.015.
K= (0. 9 X D) 0 5 XT (1) K = (0. 9 XD) 0 5 XT (1)
C=製品の緯糸のクリンプ率 Z{M X (D) ° 5} (2) C = crimp rate of product weft Z {MX (D) ° 5 } (2)
式中、 Dは経糸繊度 (dtex)、 Tは撚糸回数 (tZm)、 Mは経糸密度 (本 Z2. 54cm) を意味する。  In the formula, D means warp fineness (dtex), T means the number of twists (tZm), and M means the warp density (Z2.54cm).
[2] 織物の緯伸び率が 12%以上、 20%以下である請求項 1記載の緯ストレッチ裏地。  [2] The weft stretch lining according to claim 1, wherein the weft elongation of the fabric is 12% or more and 20% or less.
[3] 緯糸がセルロース系長繊維である請求項 1記載の緯ストレッチ裏地。  [3] The weft stretch lining according to claim 1, wherein the weft is a cellulosic long fiber.
[4] セルロース系長繊維がキュプラアンモ-ゥムレーヨン長繊維、ビスコース法レーヨン 長繊維及び精製セルロース長繊維の 、ずれかである請求項 1〜3の ヽずれかに記 載の緯ストレッチ裏地。  [4] The weft stretch lining according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cellulosic long fibers are any one of cupra ammon rayon long fibers, viscose rayon long fibers and purified cellulose long fibers.
[5] ポリエステル系長繊維がポリエチレンテレフタレート系長繊維である請求項 1〜3の [5] The polyester long fiber is a polyethylene terephthalate long fiber
V、ずれかに記載の緯ストレッチ裏地。 V, the weft stretch lining described in the slippage.
[6] 生機状態で織物にアルカリ水溶液を付与した後、該織物を生機幅に対して 5〜30[6] After applying the alkaline aqueous solution to the fabric in the raw machine state,
%の幅入れした状態で熱処理することを特徴とする請求項 1〜3のいずれかに記載 の緯ストレッチ裏地の製造方法。 The method for producing a weft stretch lining according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the heat treatment is performed in a state in which the width is%.
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KR20080112400A (en) 2008-12-24
EP2045381A4 (en) 2010-08-11
EP2045381B1 (en) 2011-12-07
CN101501258A (en) 2009-08-05
EP2045381A1 (en) 2009-04-08
CN101501258B (en) 2011-07-06
JP4819123B2 (en) 2011-11-24
KR101101452B1 (en) 2012-01-03
JPWO2008012869A1 (en) 2009-12-17

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