WO2006013411A1 - Composition cosmétique pour fibres de kératine comportant un trisiloxane alkyle - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour fibres de kératine comportant un trisiloxane alkyle Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2006013411A1
WO2006013411A1 PCT/IB2005/002019 IB2005002019W WO2006013411A1 WO 2006013411 A1 WO2006013411 A1 WO 2006013411A1 IB 2005002019 W IB2005002019 W IB 2005002019W WO 2006013411 A1 WO2006013411 A1 WO 2006013411A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
oil
volatile
oils
company
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2005/002019
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Nathalie Jager Lezer
Thérèse Daubige
Frédéric Auguste
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR0451692A external-priority patent/FR2873571B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2006013411A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006013411A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers comprising an alkyltrisiloxane
  • the present invention relates to making up keratin fibers, for instance the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair, and more particularly to making up the eyelashes.
  • the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a product for the eyelashes, or mascara, a product for the eyebrows or a hair makeup product.
  • the invention relates more especially to a mascara.
  • It may especially be a makeup composition, a transparent or colored composition to be applied over or under a makeup, which are respectively known as "top coat” and "base coat”, or alternatively an eyelash treatment composition.
  • makeup compositions for keratin fibers and especially the eyelashes comprise a liquid fatty phase (oils) containing an oily structuring agent, which may be a wax, a polymer, in particular a semicrystalline polymer, or a lipophilic gelling agent.
  • emulsion mascaras which are in the form of an emulsion of waxes in water
  • mascaras with a solvent or oil continuous phase which are anhydrous or have a low content of water and/or of water- soluble solvents
  • waterproof mascaras which are formulated in the form of a dispersion of waxes in nonaqueous solvents.
  • mascara with an aqueous continuous phase means a system capable of being diluted or dispersed on contact with water.
  • mascara with a solvent continuous phase means a system capable of being diluted or dispersed on contact with said solvent medium.
  • composition or mascara of "emulsion” type composition or mascara of "waterproof type.
  • compositions can show improved qualities, especially in terms of charging, resistance to water, resistance to sebum and/or resistance to rubbing, by means of the presence of particular volatile linear alkyltrisiloxanes.
  • One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition for making up keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises at least one volatile linear alkyltri- siloxane oil of general formula (I):
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for making up keratin fibers, in which a composition as defined above is applied to said keratin fibers, especially the eyelashes.
  • a subject of the invention is the use of a volatile oil as defined above for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for making up keratin fibers.
  • volatile organic solvent or oil means an organic solvent or oil (or nonaqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than 1 hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 '3 to 300 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 8000 Pa (0.01 to 60 mmHg).
  • the term "at least one” means one or more individual compounds, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the expression “the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of general formula (I)” also covers the case in which it is a mixture of several oils of formula (I).
  • composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, especially a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with keratin fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.
  • a cosmetically acceptable medium i.e. a medium that is compatible with keratin fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.
  • the term "cosmetically acceptable” means a compound whose use is compatible with application to keratin fibers.
  • oils of general formula (I) that may be mentioned are: - 3-butyl- 1,1,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
  • the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) may be prepared according to known processes for the synthesis of silicone compounds.
  • the content of volatile linear alkyltri ⁇ siloxane oil of general formula (I) in the composition ranges from 1% to 80%, preferably from 5% to 40% and even more preferably from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of volatile linear alkyltri ⁇ siloxane oil of general formula (I) preferably ranges from 1% to 80%, preferably from 5% to 40% and better still from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition for making up keratin fibers is of "emulsion” type, the introduction of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) allows the quality of the compositions to be improved.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents or oils in addition to the linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I).
  • the composition usually comprises a total amount of oil ranging from 1% to 80%, preferably from 8% to 25% and better still from 10% to 20%, which may also be referred to as nonaqueous solvent medium.
  • composition of "emulsion” type the presence of an oil is optional. It may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 30%, preferably 1% to 15% by weight and better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may comprise one or more types of organic solvent or oil other than the linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I).
  • This or these other types of oil may be chosen from volatile oils and/or nonvolatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, for instance C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyl ® , branched C 8 -C 16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt ® by the company Shell, may also be used.
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 6 centistokes (6 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 or 2 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclo- hexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl- disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethyl- pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Volatile organic solvents especially fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoro- methoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, may also be used.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise a linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I), and also one or more volatile oils not in accordance with formula (I), especially in a weight ratio between the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) and this or these volatile oil(s) not in accordance with formula (I) that may range from 0.05 to 30, preferably from 0.1 to 20 and even more preferably from 0.15 to 10.
  • the volatile oil(s) not in accordance with formula (I) is or are chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, volatile silicone oils such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) or dodeca- methylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of volatile oils consisting of 3-ethyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-hepta- methyltrisiloxane or 3-butyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and of decamethylcyclo ⁇ pentasiloxane, especially in a weight ratio ranging from 1.38 to 19, preferably from 1.5 to 10 and even more preferably from 2 to 5.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of volatile oils consisting of 3-ethyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-hepta- methyltrisiloxane or 3-butyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and of isododecane, especially in a weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 1.5, preferably from 0.12 to 1 and even more preferably from 0.15 to 0.5.
  • the mixture of volatile oils, or volatile fatty phase, in the composition according to the invention has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil(s) evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 1.7 to 370 mg/cm 2 , especially from 2 to 70 mg/cm 2 and in particular from 2 to 30 mg/cm 2 .
  • the evaporation profile is measured according to the following protocol: 15 g of oil or of the mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystal ⁇ lizing dish (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance located in a chamber of about 0.3 m 3 with a regulated temperature (25°C) and hygrometry (50% relative humidity).
  • the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, ventilation being provided by means of a ventilator (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, operating at 2700 rpm) arranged vertically above the crystallizing dish containing the solvent, the vanes being directed toward the crystallizing dish and 20 cm away from the base of the crystallizing dish.
  • the mass of oil(s) remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals, and in particular every 30 minutes.
  • the evaporation rates are expressed as mg of oil evaporated per unit of surface area (cm 2 ) and per unit of time (minutes).
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one nonvolatile compound, which is water-insoluble and liquid at room temperature, especially at least one nonvolatile organic solvent or oil, which may be chosen in particular from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycer
  • esters for instance oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 + R 2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pen
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol,
  • - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonvolatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxy- silicates.
  • PDMS nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms
  • the fluoro oils that may be used in the composition of the invention are especially fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers or fluoro silicones as described in document EP-A-847 752.
  • the content of nonvolatile organic solvent or oil in a composition according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one agent for structuring the oily phase or organic solvent, chosen from waxes, semicrystalline polymers and lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the structuring agent may represent from 0.1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 50% and even more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of oily structuring agent may be adjusted by a person skilled in the art as a function of the structuring properties of said agents.
  • the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO standard 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from
  • compositions according to the invention 100 0 C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention generally have a hardness ranging from 0.01 MPa to 15 MPa, especially greater than 0.05 MPa and in particular greater than 0.1 MPa.
  • the hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at
  • the spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.1 mm/s and then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of
  • the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.1 mm/s.
  • the force compression force
  • the force compressing force
  • the hardness corresponds to the maximum compression force measured between the surface of the spindle and the wax at the moment they come into contact. The value of this force is expressed in MPa.
  • the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20°C.
  • the molten wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep.
  • the wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours and is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C, before performing the hardness measurement.
  • waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, sumach wax, paraffins, certain polyethylene waxes and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50 ® , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l- trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by the company Heterene.
  • silicone waxes and fluoro waxes Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and fluoro waxes.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one "tacky" wax, i.e. a wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.
  • a tacky wax may especially allow the production of a cosmetic composition that applies easily to keratin fibers, with good attachment to the keratin fibers, and which leads to the formation of a smooth, homogeneous and thickening makeup.
  • the tacky wax used may especially have a tack ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N.s, especially ranging from 1 N.s to 20 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 2 N.s, especially ranging from 2 N.s to 10 N.s and in particular ranging from 2 N.s to 5 N.s.
  • the tack of the wax is determined by measuring the change in force
  • compression force or stretching force as a function of time, at 20°C, using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i ® by the company Rheo, equipped with a conical acrylic polymer spindle forming an angle of 45°.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax
  • the molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep.
  • the wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before measuring the tack.
  • the texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.5 mm/s then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 2 mm, the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.
  • the tack corresponds to the integral of the curve of the force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to negative values of the force (stretching force).
  • the tack value is expressed in N.s.
  • the tacky wax that may be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, especially ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa or even ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.
  • the hardness is measured according to the protocol described previously.
  • Tacky waxes that may be used include a C 20 -C 4O alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)- stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a C 20 -C 40 alkyl 12-(12'- hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, of formula (II):
  • Wax K 80 P ® by the company Koster Keunen The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of less than
  • microwaxes in particular from 1 to 20 micrometers and more particularly from 5 to 10 micrometers, which are referred to hereinafter as “microwaxes", may also be used.
  • the waxes used according to the invention in the form of fragments of larger size are referred to hereinbelow as “conventional waxes”.
  • the particle sizes may be measured by various techniques; mention may be made in particular of light-scattering techniques (dynamic and static), Coulter counter methods, sedimentation rate measurements (related to the size via Stokes' law) and microscopy. These techniques make it possible to measure a particle diameter and, for some of them, a particle size distribution.
  • the sizes and size distributions of the particles in the compositions according to the invention are preferably measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine an "effective" particle diameter in the case of nonspherical particles. This theory is described especially in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • composition is characterized by its mean "effective" diameter by volume D[4.3], defined in the following manner:
  • Vi represents the volume of the particles with an effective diameter d;
  • the measurements are performed at 25 0 C on a dilute particle dispersion, obtained from the composition in the following manner: 1) dilution by a factor of 100 with water, 2) homogenization of the solution, 3) standing of the solution for 18 hours, 4) recovery of the whitish uniform supernatant.
  • the "effective" diameter is obtained by taking a refractive index of 1.33 for water and a mean refractive index of 1.42 for the particles.
  • microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name "MicroCare 350 ® " by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name "MicroEase 114S ® " by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names "Micro Care 300 ® “ and “310 ® " by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name "Micro Care 325 ® " by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names "Micropoly 200 ® ", “220 ® “, “220L ® “ and “250S ® " by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoro- ethylene micro
  • composition according to the invention it is obviously possible to use a mixture of waxes and especially to use one or more conventional waxes, such as, especially, a tacky wax and/or a wax with a starting melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C, and one or more microwaxes.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise a content of waxes ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; it may in particular contain from 0.5% to 50% and more particularly from 1% to 30% thereof.
  • semiconductor polymers means compounds containing at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units and more especially at least ten repeating units.
  • semiconductor polymer means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, a crystallizable side chain or a crystallizable block in the skeleton, and an amorphous portion in the skeleton and having a first-order reversible phase-change temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition).
  • the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous block; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example, of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block.
  • block generally means at least five identical repeating units.
  • the crystallizable block(s) is (are) of chemical nature different than that of the amorphous block(s).
  • the semicrystalline polymer has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C (especially ranging from 30°C to 80°C), preferably ranging from 30°C to 60°C.
  • This melting point is a first-order change of state temperature. This melting point may be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
  • the semicrystalline polymer(s) to which the invention applies have a number-average molecular mass of greater than or equal to 1000.
  • the semicrystalline polymer(s) of the composition of the invention have a number-average molecular mass Mn ranging from 2000 to 800 000, preferably from 3000 to 500 000, better still from 4000 to 150 000, especially less than 100 000 and better still from 4000 to 99 000.
  • crystallizable chain or block means a chain or block which, if it were alone, would reversibly change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, depending on whether the system is above or below the melting point.
  • a chain is a group of atoms, which is pendent or lateral relative to the polymer skeleton.
  • a block is a group of atoms belonging to the skeleton, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
  • the "crystallizable side chain” may be a chain containing at least six carbon atoms.
  • the semicrystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers compris ⁇ ing at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, and homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof.
  • the copolymers may be copolymers containing at least one crystallizable block, the rest of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may also contain two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature.
  • the preferred copolymers are those that simultaneously contain at room temperature a crystallizable block and an amorphous block that are both hydrophobic and lipophilic, sequentially distributed; mention may be made, for example, of polymers containing one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the amorphous blocks below:
  • - Block that is crystallizable by nature a) polyester type, for instance poly(alkylene terephthalate), b) of polyolefm type, for instance polyethylenes or polypropylenes.
  • - Amorphous and lipophilic block for instance: amorphous polyolefins or copoly(olefin)s such as poly(isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene or hydrogenated poly(isoprene).
  • copolymers containing a crystallizable block and an amorphous block mention may be made of: ⁇ ) poly( ⁇ -caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article "Melting behavior of poly( ⁇ -caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers" from S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999), ⁇ ) the hydrogenated block or multiblock poly(butylene terephthalate)-b- poly(isoprene) block copolymers cited in the article "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP/PBT" by B.
  • the semicrystalline polymers in the composition according to the invention are noncrosslinked.
  • the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C 14 -C 24 alkyl (meth)acrylates,.C ⁇ C 15 perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates, C 14 to C 24 N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing C 14 to C 24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, vinyl ethers containing C 14 to C 24 alkyl or perfluoralkyl chains, C 14 to C 24 ⁇ -olefms, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one optionally fluorinated C 1 to C 10 monocarboxylic acid ester or amide, which may be represented by the following formula:
  • R 1 O in which R 1 is H or CH 3 , R represents an optionally fluorinated C 1 -C 10 alkyl group and X represents O, NH or NR 2 , in which R 2 represents an optionally fluorinated C 1 -C 10 alkyl group.
  • the polymer is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C 14 -C 22 alkyl (meth)acrylates.
  • the gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.
  • Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include optionally modified clays, for instance hectorites modified with a C 10 to C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name "Bentone 38V ® " by the company Elementis.
  • fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ m.
  • a hydrophobic surface treatment the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ m.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • silica thus treated are known as "silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references “Aerosil R812 ® “ by the company Degussa, and “Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ® " by the company Cabot;
  • silica thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references “Aerosil R972 ® “ and “Aerosil R974 ® “ by the company Degussa, and "Cab-O- SiI TS-610 ® “ and “Cab-O-Sil TS-720 ® " by the company Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
  • the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, for instance those sold under the names KSG6 ® , KSGl 6 ® and KSGl 8 ® from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C ® or Trefil E-506C ® from Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC ® , SR DMF 10 ® , SR- DC556 ® , SR 5CYC gel ® , SR DMF 10 gel ® and SR DC 556 gel ® from Grant Industries and SF 1204 ® and JK 113 ® from General Electric; ethylcellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from condensation between (
  • Block copolymers of "diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as the products sold under the name Luvitol HSB ® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene- propylene) type, such as the products sold under the name Kraton ® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copory(ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel ® , for instance the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).
  • fatty acid esters of dextrin such as dextrin palmitates, especially the products sold under the name Rheopearl TL ® or Rheopearl KL ® by the company Chiba Flour.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
  • the film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight and better still from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • film-forming polymer means a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to the keratin fibers, preferably a cohesive film and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and manipulated separately, for example when said film is made by casting on a nonstick surface, for instance a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
  • film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • free-radical film-forming polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated and especially ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).
  • the film-forming polymers of free-radical type may be, in particular, vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acidic group and/or esters of these acidic monomers and/or amides of these acidic monomers.
  • Monomers bearing an acidic group which may be used are ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid.
  • (Meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferably used, and more preferably (meth)acrylic acid.
  • esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from (meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates), especially (meth)acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a C 1 -C 30 and preferably C 1 -C 20 alkyl, (meth)acrylates of an aryl, in particular of a C 6 -C 10 aryl, and (meth)acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl, in particular of a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.
  • (meth)acrylic acid esters also known as (meth)acrylates
  • alkyl in particular of a C 1 -C 30 and preferably C 1 -C 20 alkyl
  • aryl in particular of a C 6 -C 10 aryl
  • a hydroxyalkyl in particular of a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.
  • alkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate.
  • hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
  • aryl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
  • the (meth)acrylic acid esters that are particularly preferred are the alkyl (meth)acrylates.
  • the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
  • amides of the acid monomers are (meth)acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in particular of a C 2 -C 12 alkyl.
  • N ⁇ alkyl(meth)acrylamides that may be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t-octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
  • these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amides thereof, such as those mentioned above.
  • vinyl esters examples include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate.
  • Styrene monomers that may be mentioned are styrene and ⁇ -methylstyrene.
  • film-forming polycondensates that may be mentioned are polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides, epoxyester resins and polyureas.
  • the polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas and polyurea/polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
  • the dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
  • examples of such acids that may be mentioned are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid or 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
  • These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a combination of at
  • the diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols.
  • the diol used is preferably chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol and 4-butanediol.
  • Other polyols that may be used are glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane.
  • the polyesteramides may be obtained in a manner analogous to that of the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.
  • Diamines that may be used are ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediarnine and meta- or para- phenylenediamine.
  • An amino alcohol that may be used is monoethanolamine.
  • the polyester may also comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one group -SO 3 M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion such as, for example, an Na + , Li + , K + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ or Fe 3+ ion.
  • a difunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO 3 M may be used in particular.
  • the aromatic nucleus of the difunctional aromatic monomer also bearing a group -SO 3 M as described above may be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, biphenyl, oxybiphenyl, sulfonylbiphenyl and methylenebiphenyl nuclei.
  • difunctional aromatic monomers also bearing a group -SO 3 M mention may be made of: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
  • copolymers preferably used are those based on isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid.
  • the polymers of natural origin may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins and cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the composition; the polymer is thus solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned are:
  • proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins and soybean proteins
  • proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolyzates and sulfonic keratins
  • - polymers of cellulose such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl- cellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;
  • vinyl polymers for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
  • the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents or oils such as those described above (the film-forming polymer is thus said to be a liposoluble polymer).
  • the expression "liquid fatty phase” means a fatty phase which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 irnnHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa), composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, also known as oils, which are generally mutually compatible.
  • the liquid fatty phase preferably comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a nonvolatile oil, the oils possibly being chosen from those mentioned above.
  • liposoluble polymers which may be mentioned are copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (other than the vinyl ester already present), an ⁇ -olefin (containing from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms) or an allylic or methallylic ester (containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).
  • vinyl ester the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of
  • copolymers may be crosslinked with the aid of crosslinking agents, which may be either of the vinyl type or of the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate.
  • crosslinking agents may be either of the vinyl type or of the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate.
  • copolymers examples include the following copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/ 1-dodecene, vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2,2-dimethyloctanoate/vinyl laurate, allyl 2,2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate/
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers examples include liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters containing from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and alkyl radicals containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from polyvinyl stearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, polystearyl (meth)acrylate, polyvinyl laurate and polylauryl (meth)acrylate, it being possible for these poly(meth)acrylates to be crosslinked with the aid of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
  • the liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are described in particular in patent application FR- A-2 232 303; they may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2 000 to 500 000 and preferably from 4 000 to 200 000.
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers which may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C 2 -C 20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C 2 to C 40 and better still C 3 to C 20 alkene.
  • polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C 2 -C 20 alkenes such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose
  • VP vinylpyrrolidone
  • V vinylpyrrolidone
  • VP copolymers which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/ methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • silicone resins which are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.
  • the nomen- clature of silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
  • MDTQ polymethylsilsesquioxane resins
  • Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethyl siloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR 1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J” by the company Shin-Etsu, and "DC 749" and “DC 593” by the company Dow Corning.
  • TMS trimethyl siloxysilicate
  • Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type may also be used, such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or
  • the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear block ethylenic polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block with different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being linked together via an intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block.
  • Tg glass transition temperatures
  • the first and second blocks of the block polymer are mutually incompatible.
  • the film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase or in a nonaqueous solvent phase, which is generally known as a latex or pseudolatex.
  • a latex or pseudolatex The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers that may be used include the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90 ® , Neocryl A-1070 ® , Neocryl A- 1090 ® , Neocryl BT-62 ® , Neocryl A-1079 ® and Neocryl A-523 ® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432 ® by the company Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD ® or Daitosol 5000 SJ ® by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760 ® by the company Interpolymer, or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981 ® and Neorez R-974 ® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405 ® , Avalure UR-410 ® , Avalure UR-425 ® , Avalure UR-450 ® , Sancure 875
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer that promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.
  • a plasticizer may be chosen from any compound known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and/or at least one water-soluble solvent, which may form the continuous phase of the composition.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.
  • the aqueous phase (water and/or water-soluble solvent(s)) may be introduced in unmodified form into the formulation according to the invention or may be incorporated therein by means of one or more ingredients constituting said composition.
  • water may especially be introduced into the composition by means of introducing a latex or a pseudolatex, i.e. an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles.
  • the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 80% by weight and preferentially ranging from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of water and/or of water-soluble solvent(s) in the compositions of "waterproof type according to the invention is preferably less than 20% by weight; it may range from 0.1% to 20% and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition is referred to as being "anhydrous" when the content of water and/or water-soluble solvent(s) in the composition is less than 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This type of composition also forms part of the invention.
  • composition according to the invention in particular when it comprises an aqueous phase, may contain emulsifying surfactants especially present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30%, better still from 1% to 15% and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • an emulsifier appropriately chosen to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion is generally used.
  • an emulsifier having at 25°C an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), in the Griffin sense, of greater than or equal to 8 may be used.
  • surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants or emulsifying surfactants.
  • the surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made especially of: - oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol;
  • - oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially of C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohol), such as oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol ether containing 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30”) and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C 12-Cl 5 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7" sold under the name "Neodol 25-7 ® " by Shell Chemicals);
  • - fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P by the company ICI Uniquema;
  • glyceryl ethers which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylenated glyceryl ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), for instance PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name "Simulsol 220 TM ® " by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat S ® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat O ® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Varionic LI 13 ® sold by the company Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance
  • - fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), for instance polysorbate 60 sold under the name "Tween 60 ® " by the company Uniquema;
  • the EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, for instance polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates.
  • These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:
  • the EO/PO polycondensate preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15 000 and better still ranging from 2000 to 13 000.
  • said EO/PO polycondensate has a cloud point, at 10 g/1 in distilled water, of greater than or equal to 20°C and preferably greater than or equal to 60°C.
  • the cloud point is measured according to ISO standard 1065.
  • Synperonic ® polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic ® , for instance Synperonic PE/L44 ® and Synperonic PE/F127 ® , by the company ICI.
  • nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 0 C optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than 8 at 25°C, such as those mentioned above, such as: - saccharide esters and ethers, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof, for instance Arlatone 2121 ® sold by the company ICI;
  • - fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of polyols, especially of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin M ® by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312 ® by the company H ⁇ ls, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate or glyceryl ricinoleate;
  • polyols especially of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin M ® by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312 ® by the company H ⁇ ls, polyglyceryl-2
  • anionic surfactants such as:
  • fatty acid salts especially those derived from amines, for instance triethanolamine stearate;
  • - polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts especially those derived from amines or alkali metal salts, and mixtures thereof; - phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate"
  • - sulfosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”; - alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
  • acylglutamates such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate” (Amisoft HS-21 R ® sold by the company Ajinomoto), and mixtures thereof.
  • Triethanolamine stearate is most particularly suitable for the invention. This surfactant is generally obtained by simple mixing of stearic acid and triethanolamine. Water-soluble gelling agent
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100 ® by the company Phoenix Chemical.
  • amphoteric surfactants for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • amine oxides such as stearamine oxide
  • silicone surfactants for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100 ® by the company Phoenix Chemical.
  • composition when it contains an aqueous phase, it may comprise a water- soluble gelling agent.
  • the water-soluble gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from:
  • the water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above may also act as water-soluble gelling agent.
  • the water-soluble gelling polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight or even from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff, for instance pulverulent dyes, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.
  • the pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated.
  • mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
  • organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
  • the nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, especially, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride
  • colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, especially, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.
  • These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.
  • the fillers may be chosen from those that are well known to persons skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon ® sold under the trade name Orgasol ® by the company Atochem, poly- ⁇ -alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetra- fluoroethylene polymers, for instance Teflon ® , lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/- acrylonitrile, for instance the products sold under the name Expancel ® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders, such as those sold under the name Polytrap ® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls ®
  • a compound that is capable of swelling on heating and especially heat-expandable particles such as nonexpanded microspheres of copolymer of vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate or of acrylonitrile homopolymer copolymer, for instance those sold, respectively, under the references Expancel ® 820 DU 40 and Expancel ® 007WU by the company Akzo Nobel.
  • the fillers may represent from 0.1% to 25% and in particular from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, preserving agents, fibers, fragrances, neutralizers, gelling agents, thickeners, vitamins, coalescers and plasticizers, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives such as antioxidants, preserving agents, fibers, fragrances, neutralizers, gelling agents, thickeners, vitamins, coalescers and plasticizers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise fibers to allow an improvement in the lengthening effect.
  • fiber should be understood as meaning an object of length L and diameter D such that L is very much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the cross section of the fiber is inscribed.
  • the ratio L/D (or shape factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, especially from 5 to 500 and in particular
  • the fibers that may be used in the composition of the invention may be mineral or organic fibers of synthetic or natural origin. They may be short or long, individual or organized, for example braided, and hollow or solid. They may have any shape, and may especially have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section, depending on the intended specific application. In particular, their ends are blunt and/or polished to prevent injury.
  • the fibers have a length ranging from 1 ⁇ m to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm.
  • Their cross section may be within a circle of diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 ⁇ m, preferably ranging from 100 ran to 100 ⁇ m and better still from 1 ⁇ m to 50 ⁇ m.
  • the weight or yarn count of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex, and represents the weight in grams per 9 km of yarn, hi particular, the fibers may have a yarn count chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and better still from 0.18 to 18 denier
  • the fibers that may be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or nonrigid fibers, and may be of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin.
  • the fibers may or may not be surface-treated, may be coated or uncoated, and may be colored or uncolored.
  • fibers that may be used in the composition according to the invention mention may be made of nonrigid fibers such as polyamide (Nylon ) fibers or rigid fibers
  • polyimideamide fibers such as polyimideamide fibers, for instance those sold under the names Kermel and
  • the fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • cosmetic active agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.
  • compositions according to the invention depends on the desired type of mascara, i.e. "emulsion mascara” or “waterproof mascara”. It also depends in particular on the nature of the wax(es) used.
  • compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a process for making up keratin fibers, in which a composition as defined above is applied to said keratin fibers, especially the eyelashes.
  • compositions of the invention may in particular be applied to the eyelashes using a brush or a comb.
  • the thickening effect of the makeup, using the composition of the invention may moreover be reinforced by most particularly selecting the device for applying said composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment that comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing member.
  • the container is preferably associated with an applicator, especially in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles maintained by a twisted wire.
  • an applicator especially in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles maintained by a twisted wire.
  • a twisted brush is especially described in patent US 4 887 622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application members, obtained especially by molding.
  • the applicator may be solidly attached to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
  • the applicator is solidly attached to a stem, which is itself solidly attached to the closing member.
  • the closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
  • the coupling between the closing member and the container takes place other than by screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by tightening.
  • click-fastening in particular means any system involving the passing of a rim or bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, especially of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unstressed position of said portion after the rim or bead has been passed.
  • the container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material.
  • thermoplastic materials that maybe mentioned include polypropylene and polyethylene.
  • the container is made of a nonthermoplastic material, especially of glass or metal (or alloy).
  • the container is preferably equipped with a drainer located in the region of the aperture of the container.
  • a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and, optionally, the stem to which it may be solidly attached.
  • a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
  • the supply of the oil ethylheptamethyl trisiloxane was evaluated in this study in terms of resistance and charging. To do this, tests were conducted according to the following in vitro tests: resistance to water, resistance to sebum, resistance to rubbing, measurement of the charging. To perform these tests, the mascara is applied either: to straight samples: straight Caucasian hair 30 knots (60 eyelashes 1 cm long) 2 cm fringe length, to curly samples: curly Caucasian hair 15 knots (30 eyelashes 1 cm long) 1 cm fringe length.
  • the makeup application is the same for all the tests, i.e. 3 x 10 sweeps with an interval of 2 minutes, with uptake of product between each series of 10. Each sample is then dried at room temperature for a drying time that varies according to the test.
  • Test 3 made-up samples are immersed in a container containing squalene (squalene is present to a content of 18% in the composition of sebum) or water (according to the test) for 1 hour. The 3 samples are then passed to and fro 5 times over a square Wypall L40 wipe from Kimberly-Clark.
  • the intensity of black deposited by the sample is then measured using a colorimeter of CR 300 type from Minolta.
  • reference measurement the color of the wipe is used as reference white.
  • Test a made-up sample is rubbed perpendicularly 30 times with a hard brush (Keracils type) over a white sheet in order to recover the mascara debris. The quantity of grains deposited on the sheet is then evaluated and a "score" is given. The resistance to crumbling is graded from 0 to 5. Value 0: no presence of grains, thus film not crumbly. Value 5: lots of grains, thus very crumbly film.
  • the mean charging is the mean of the measurements taken on the 6 samples. This test was conducted on waterproof mascaras and emulsion mascaras.
  • a mascara IA according to the invention comprising a mixture of alkyltrisiloxane and isododecane and a mascara 1 according to the prior art comprising isododecane only are prepared.
  • composition according to the invention has better in vitro charging, resistance to squalene and to rubbing than the composition not comprising alkyltrisiloxane.
  • a mascara 2A according to the invention comprising an alkyltrisiloxane and a mascara 2 according to the prior art not comprising any alkyltrisiloxane are prepared.
  • composition according to the invention has better in vitro charging, resistance to squalene and to water than the composition of the prior art not comprising alkyltrisiloxane.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique conçue pour fabriquer des fibres de kératine, ladite composition étant caractérisée par le fait qu’elle comporte au moins une huile de trisiloxane alkyle linéaire volatile de formule générale (I), dans laquelle R représente un groupe alkyle contenant 2 à 4 atomes de carbone, éventuellement remplacés par un ou plusieurs atomes de fluor ou de chlore. La présente invention concerne également le procédé correspondant de fabrication de fibres de kératine.
PCT/IB2005/002019 2004-07-28 2005-07-15 Composition cosmétique pour fibres de kératine comportant un trisiloxane alkyle WO2006013411A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0451692A FR2873571B1 (fr) 2004-07-28 2004-07-28 Composition cosmetique pour le maquillage des fibres keratiniques comprenant une huile alkyltrisiloxane volatile
FR04/51692 2004-07-28
US59988304P 2004-08-10 2004-08-10
US60/599,883 2004-08-10

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2006013411A1 true WO2006013411A1 (fr) 2006-02-09

Family

ID=35786903

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IB2005/002019 WO2006013411A1 (fr) 2004-07-28 2005-07-15 Composition cosmétique pour fibres de kératine comportant un trisiloxane alkyle

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2006013411A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8932573B2 (en) 2013-03-22 2015-01-13 L'oreal Mascara compositions comprising a semicrystalline polymer, a silicone elastomer, and a hydrophilic gelling agent

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0610014A1 (fr) * 1993-02-05 1994-08-10 Dow Corning Corporation Compositions pour le soin de la peau à base de silicone
FR2749505A1 (fr) * 1996-06-07 1997-12-12 Oreal Composition de maquillage ou de soin sans transfert a alkylpolysiloxane
WO2001097773A1 (fr) * 2000-06-23 2001-12-27 L'oreal Emulsion solide a phase grasse liquide structuree par un polymere
EP1281384A1 (fr) * 2001-07-16 2003-02-05 L'oreal Mascara comprenant des particules solides
WO2003042221A1 (fr) * 2001-11-13 2003-05-22 Ge Bayer Silicones Gmbh & Co. Kg Utilisation de siloxanes comme supports evaporables
JP2003226631A (ja) * 2002-02-01 2003-08-12 Shiseido Co Ltd 化粧料
WO2004087077A1 (fr) * 2003-04-04 2004-10-14 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant une phase lipidique volatile

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0610014A1 (fr) * 1993-02-05 1994-08-10 Dow Corning Corporation Compositions pour le soin de la peau à base de silicone
FR2749505A1 (fr) * 1996-06-07 1997-12-12 Oreal Composition de maquillage ou de soin sans transfert a alkylpolysiloxane
WO2001097773A1 (fr) * 2000-06-23 2001-12-27 L'oreal Emulsion solide a phase grasse liquide structuree par un polymere
EP1281384A1 (fr) * 2001-07-16 2003-02-05 L'oreal Mascara comprenant des particules solides
WO2003042221A1 (fr) * 2001-11-13 2003-05-22 Ge Bayer Silicones Gmbh & Co. Kg Utilisation de siloxanes comme supports evaporables
JP2003226631A (ja) * 2002-02-01 2003-08-12 Shiseido Co Ltd 化粧料
WO2004087077A1 (fr) * 2003-04-04 2004-10-14 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant une phase lipidique volatile

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 2003, no. 12 5 December 2003 (2003-12-05) *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8932573B2 (en) 2013-03-22 2015-01-13 L'oreal Mascara compositions comprising a semicrystalline polymer, a silicone elastomer, and a hydrophilic gelling agent

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US8211415B2 (en) Easily removable waterproof cosmetic care and/or makeup composition comprising at least one latex or pseudolatex
US20090317350A1 (en) Keratin fibre coating composition comprising an aqueous phase and a tackifying resin
US20100068163A1 (en) Keratin Fibre Coating Composition Comprising a Liquid Fatty Phase and a Tackifying Resin
US20060216257A1 (en) Makeup and/or care kit providing volumizing effect
US20060130248A1 (en) Easily removable water resistant cosmetic makeup compositions
US20080014164A1 (en) Mascara containing wax and filler
US20100119467A1 (en) Eyelash makeup composition and conditioning kit
US8460645B2 (en) Process for coating eyelashes
JP2013047263A (ja) 少なくとも一つのラテックスまたは擬ラテックスを含有する容易に除去できる耐水性化粧用ケア及び／またはメイクアップ組成物
US20080171009A1 (en) Keratin fibre makeup kit
JP2006265252A (ja) ボリュームアップ効果を与えることができるメイクアップ及び／またはケアキット
US8753617B2 (en) Composition in the form of a foam for coating the eyelashes
WO2010057920A2 (fr) Méthode de maquillage ou de soins des cils ou des sourcils à l'aide d'un polymère supramoléculaire à base de polyalcènes
US20130295035A1 (en) Cosmetic composition for eyelashes
US8992899B2 (en) Clean volume mascara compositions comprising at least one film former and at least one silicone elastomer
US20060193808A1 (en) Composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising a fatty alcohol wax and a cellulose-based polymer
US20100319721A1 (en) Cosmetic method which provides an elongating effect on the eyelashes and corresponding kit based on a film-forming polymer
US20060233732A1 (en) Keratin fiber coating composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase and at least one volatile oil
US20070292381A1 (en) Composition and process for coating keratin fibers
JP6594865B2 (ja) ケラチン繊維をコーティングするための化粧用組成物
EP3204124B1 (fr) Composition cosmétique de revêtement des fibres kératiniques
US20100080765A1 (en) Eyelash makeup composition and conditioning kit
WO2007054494A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant un polymère de type silicone servant à structurer une phase grasse, caractérisée par une viscosité
JP2016532664A (ja) ケラチン繊維をコーティングするための化粧用組成物
WO2006013411A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique pour fibres de kératine comportant un trisiloxane alkyle

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
AK Designated states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AE AG AL AM AT AU AZ BA BB BG BR BW BY BZ CA CH CN CO CR CU CZ DE DK DM DZ EC EE EG ES FI GB GD GE GH GM HR HU ID IL IN IS JP KE KG KM KP KR KZ LC LK LR LS LT LU LV MA MD MG MK MN MW MX MZ NA NG NI NO NZ OM PG PH PL PT RO RU SC SD SE SG SK SL SM SY TJ TM TN TR TT TZ UA UG US UZ VC VN YU ZA ZM ZW

AL Designated countries for regional patents

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): BW GH GM KE LS MW MZ NA SD SL SZ TZ UG ZM ZW AM AZ BY KG KZ MD RU TJ TM AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HU IE IS IT LT LU LV MC NL PL PT RO SE SI SK TR BF BJ CF CG CI CM GA GN GQ GW ML MR NE SN TD TG

121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application
NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase