WO2003039445A2 - Nail varnish composition comprising a polyurethane - Google Patents

Nail varnish composition comprising a polyurethane Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003039445A2
WO2003039445A2 PCT/FR2002/003760 FR0203760W WO03039445A2 WO 2003039445 A2 WO2003039445 A2 WO 2003039445A2 FR 0203760 W FR0203760 W FR 0203760W WO 03039445 A2 WO03039445 A2 WO 03039445A2
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Prior art keywords
composition according
polyurethane
chosen
weight
composition
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PCT/FR2002/003760
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French (fr)
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WO2003039445A3 (en
Inventor
Xavier Blin
Pascale Bernard
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L'oreal
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Priority to AU2002358869A priority Critical patent/AU2002358869A1/en
Publication of WO2003039445A2 publication Critical patent/WO2003039445A2/en
Publication of WO2003039445A3 publication Critical patent/WO2003039445A3/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes

Definitions

  • Nail polish composition comprising a polyurethane
  • the subject of the present invention is a film-forming nail varnish composition comprising a particular polyurethane which can be used in particular as a makeup or nail care composition.
  • the invention also relates to the use of this composition for make-up or cosmetic care of the nails.
  • the nail varnish composition can be used as a base for varnish, as a nail makeup product, as a finishing composition, also called "top coat” in English terminology, to be applied to the nail makeup product or even as cosmetic nail care product. These compositions can be applied to human nails or to false nails.
  • Varnishes in an organic solvent medium comprising nitrocellulose are also known for obtaining a water-resistant film.
  • this polymer forms a film having good hardness but is not detachable from the surface of the nail by peeling.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a film-forming nail varnish composition with an aqueous medium forming a film having good cosmetic properties such as adhesion and gloss, not being sticky and capable of being peeled off from the surface. of the support on which the film is deposited, for example of the surface of the nails, while also being cleansable with conventional solvents based on acetone and or ethyl acetate.
  • a particular polyurethane in particular in aqueous dispersion.
  • the subject of the invention is a composition of nail varnish comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a polyurethane obtained by polycondensation of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate.
  • the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of the nails comprising the application to the nails of a composition as defined above.
  • the subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for obtaining a film, deposited on the nails, peelable and / or removable with acetone and / or acetate. ethyl, and / or as a peelable nail polish.
  • the subject of the invention is also the use of a polyurethane, in particular in aqueous dispersion, obtained by polycondensation of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, in a composition of nail varnish for obtaining a film, deposited on the nails, peelable and / or can be removed with acetone and or with ethyl acetate.
  • the polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is a polyurethane of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate (TMXDI).
  • TXDI tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate
  • Such a polyurethane also has the advantage of being able to be prepared without using N-methyl pyrrolidone or acetone, thus allowing the use of this polyurethane in cosmetics without encountering the problems associated with the presence of such organic solvents.
  • Said tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate also called bis- (1 -isocyanato- 1 -methylethyl) benzene (having for Registry Number 58067-42-8) may be meta-tetramethylxylylene (meta-TMXDI) diisocyanate, also called meta - bis- (1 -isocyanato-1 -methylethyl) benzene, or para-tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate (para-TMXDI), also called para-bis- (1-isocyanato-1 - methylethyl) benzene, and preferably is meta -TMXDI.
  • the meta-tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate has the formula:
  • the para-tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate has the formula:
  • Said polyurethane is, in known manner, obtained by polycondensation of said diisocyanate with at least one diol.
  • the diol has primary hydroxyl groups.
  • the diol can be chosen from diol monomers or diol polymers.
  • the diol monomer can in particular be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols.
  • a diol chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, methylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol is used.
  • the polymer diol can be chosen from polyester diols or polyether diols, and preferably from polyester diols.
  • the polyester diol can for example be obtained by reaction of dicarboxylic acid in the presence of diol, in particular in excess.
  • the dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
  • examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
  • dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers.
  • a dicarboxylic acid preferably comprising 4 to 8 carbon atoms is chosen, such as phthalic acid or succinic acid.
  • the diol can comprise from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and can be for example ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or cyclohexanedimethanol.
  • the polyether diol can be chosen from polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycols, in particular those having from 2 to 50 units of ethylene oxide or of propylene oxide).
  • the polyurethane is an anionic polyurethane, in particular a polyurethane comprising at least one carboxylic acid group.
  • the polyurethane results from the polycondensation of at least one diol having at least one carboxylic acid group, such as, for example, 2,2-dimethylol propionic acid or 2,2-dimethylol butyric acid.
  • the carboxylic acid group present in the polyurethane can be neutralized with a base.
  • the base can be chosen from mineral bases such as sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate as well as ammonia, or organic bases such as amino alcohols such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine (TIPA), monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, tri [(2-hydroxy) -1-propyl] amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol (AMPD) or 2 -amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1, 3-propanediol as well as diamines, such as lysine.
  • AMP 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol
  • TIPA triisopropanolamine
  • monoethanolamine diethanolamine
  • AMPD 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol
  • AMPD 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol
  • the base is preferably chosen from ammonia, sodium hydroxide, triethylamine.
  • the polyurethane can also comprise an additional monomer chosen from diamines and amino alcohols.
  • diamines there may be mentioned ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine.
  • amino alcohol mention may be made of monoethanolamine.
  • said polyurethane is free of unreacted isocyanate group.
  • the polyurethane can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 1000000.
  • the polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex.
  • the polyurethane in aqueous dispersion may be in the form of solid particles having a size ranging from 10 nm to 500 nm, preferably ranging from 20 nm to 300 nm, preferably ranging from 50 nm to 200 nm, and more preferably ranging from 100 nm to 150 nm. Such particles make it possible to obtain a film with a particularly high and lasting gloss.
  • the polyurethane may have a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 20 ° C, in particular ranging from 20 ° C to 50 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C , especially ranging from 30 ° C to 50 ° C, advantageously greater than or equal to 35 ° C, especially ranging from 35 ° C to 50 ° C.
  • the measurement of the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polymer can be carried out by DMTA (Dynamical and Mechanical Temperature Analysis).
  • Tg glass transition temperature
  • the polyurethane is such that the hardness of a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours at 30 ° C. and at 50% relative humidity, of a layer 300 ⁇ m thick (before drying) of a aqueous dispersion at 28% of dry matter of polyurethane particles and of 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of polyurethane, of n-butyl ether of dipropylene glycol ranges from 50 to 200 seconds, preferably from 60 to 150 seconds, and better from 80 to 150 seconds.
  • the hardness of the film is measured according to standard ASTM D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
  • CYDROTHANE® HP 1035 As an example of a polyurethane, mention may be made of those sold under the names “CYDROTHANE® HP 1035”, “CYDROTHANE® HP 4033”, “CYDROTHANE® HP 5035”, “CYDROTHANE® HP 6000” by the company CYTEC.
  • the polyurethane can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight and better from 5% to 40% by weight.
  • the polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is a film-forming polyurethane: the polyurethane is capable on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of a continuous film which adheres to a support, in particular on materials keratin.
  • an auxiliary film-forming agent may be present in the composition.
  • Such an auxiliary film-forming agent can be chosen from all the compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular from plasticizing agents and coalescing agents.
  • plasticizer there may be mentioned: adipates such as diethyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, di-isobutyl adipate, di-isopropyl adipate, sebacates such as dimethyl sebacate, diethyl sebacate, dibutyl sebacate, citrates such as triethyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, phthalates such as diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate.
  • adipates such as diethyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, di-isobutyl adipate, di-isopropyl adipate
  • sebacates such as dimethyl sebacate, diethyl sebacate, dibutyl sebacate
  • citrates such as triethyl citrate, acetyl triethyl
  • the plasticizing agent can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount sufficient to plasticize the polymer film deposited on the nails.
  • the content of plasticizer in the composition can range from 0.05% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight.
  • propylene glycol ethers such as propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol t-butyl ether, propylene glycol n-propyl ether, propylene glycol phenyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethers such as dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol t-butyl ether, dipropylene glycol n-propyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether acetate, propylene glycol diacetate, methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, isopropyl lactate, butyl lactate.
  • propylene glycol ethers such as propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol t-butyl ether, propylene glycol n-propyl ether, propylene glycol phenyl ether, dipropylene glycol ether
  • the coalescing agent can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight. weight.
  • the medium of the composition of the invention is advantageously an aqueous medium.
  • This aqueous medium can consist essentially of water.
  • the water content in the composition can range from 10% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, and better still from 60% to 85% by weight.
  • the composition can also comprise a water-miscible solvent such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes, in particular in a content which can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a water-miscible solvent such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes, in particular in a content which can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise a thickening agent, in particular a thickening agent for an aqueous medium, such as clays swelling in water such as hectorites, bentonites, associative thickeners such as associative polyurethanes, acrylic polymers associative, water-soluble cellulosic thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose.
  • a thickening agent for an aqueous medium, such as clays swelling in water such as hectorites, bentonites, associative thickeners such as associative polyurethanes, acrylic polymers associative, water-soluble cellulosic thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose.
  • the thickening agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise coloring materials such as water-soluble dyes, pulverulent coloring materials such as pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the coloring matters can be present, in the composition, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight.
  • the term “pigments” should be understood to mean particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.
  • the pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
  • mineral pigments mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metallic powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.
  • organic pigments there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
  • the pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, mica titanium coated with in particular blue ferric or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise fillers, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. weight.
  • fillers it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. These charges are used in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
  • the fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.).
  • talc Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers ( Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as PExpancel® (Nobel Industry), of acrylic acid copolymers (Poly-trap® from Dow Corning) and microbeads, silicone resin (Toshiba pearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate , hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise any cosmetic additive known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of being incorporated into such a composition, such as additional film-forming polymers (other than the polyurethane described above), spreading, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, oils, waxes, preservatives, UV filters, active agents, surfactants, hydrating agents, perfumes, neutralizers, stabilizers, antioxidants.
  • additional film-forming polymers other than the polyurethane described above
  • spreading wetting agents
  • dispersing agents defoamers
  • oils oils
  • waxes preservatives
  • UV filters UV filters
  • active agents active agents
  • surfactants hydrating agents
  • perfumes perfumes, neutralizers, stabilizers, antioxidants.
  • composition of the invention can be obtained according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics.
  • the invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.
  • a nail varnish is obtained which is easily applied to the nails and forms, after drying, a shiny, non-sticky film.
  • the film easily peels off the surface of the nail.
  • the varnish film can also be removed easily with the makeup remover sold under the name Lancians Douceur.
  • a nail varnish having the following composition is prepared
  • This varnish applied to the nails forms a shiny, non-sticky film, which films easily.
  • the varnish film can also be removed with the makeup remover sold under the name Lancians Douceur.

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Abstract

The invention concerns a nail varnish composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a polyurethane obtained by polycondensation of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate. The invention also concerns a make-up and nail care method consisting in applying said composition on the nails. The composition produces a film with good cosmetic properties such as adherence and gloss, is not tacky and capable of being peeled off from the surface of the support whereon the film is deposited, but still capable of being removed with standard acetone and/or ethyl acetate solvents

Description

Composition de vernis à ongles comprenant un polyurethane Nail polish composition comprising a polyurethane
La présente invention a pour objet une composition de vernis à ongles filmogène comprenant un polyurethane particulier utilisable notamment comme composition de maquillage ou de soin des ongles. L'invention se rapporte aussi à l'utilisation de cette composition pour le maquillage ou le soin cosmétique des ongles.The subject of the present invention is a film-forming nail varnish composition comprising a particular polyurethane which can be used in particular as a makeup or nail care composition. The invention also relates to the use of this composition for make-up or cosmetic care of the nails.
La composition de vernis à ongles peut être employée comme base pour vernis, comme produit de maquillage des ongles, comme composition de finition, encore appelée "top-coat" en terminologie anglosaxonne, à appliquer sur le produit de maquillage des ongles ou bien encore comme produit de soin cosmétique des ongles. Ces compositions peuvent s'appliquer sur les ongles d'êtres humains ou sur des faux ongles.The nail varnish composition can be used as a base for varnish, as a nail makeup product, as a finishing composition, also called "top coat" in English terminology, to be applied to the nail makeup product or even as cosmetic nail care product. These compositions can be applied to human nails or to false nails.
Il est connu de l'état de la technique des vernis à l'eau pelables comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de polymère, comme par exemple décrit dans le document JP-A-56-131513. Or, si le pelage du film de maquillage déposé sur l'ongle s'effectue mal et que des morceaux de film restent sur l'ongle, il est difficile pour l'utilisa- trice d'éliminer totalement les morceaux de film restant car ces morceaux ne peuvent pas être démaquillés avec les dissolvants classiques de vernis à ongles.It is known from the state of the art of peelable water-based varnishes comprising an aqueous dispersion of polymer, as for example described in the document JP-A-56-131513. However, if the peeling of the makeup film deposited on the nail is poor and pieces of film remain on the nail, it is difficult for the user to completely remove the remaining pieces of film because these pieces can not be removed with conventional nail polish removers.
Il est également connu des vernis en milieu solvant organique comprenant de la nitrocellulose pour obtenir un film résistant à l'eau. Toutefois, ce polymère forme un film présentant une bonne dureté mais n'est pas détachable de la surface de l'ongle par pelage.Varnishes in an organic solvent medium comprising nitrocellulose are also known for obtaining a water-resistant film. However, this polymer forms a film having good hardness but is not detachable from the surface of the nail by peeling.
Le but de la présente invention est de proposer une composition de vernis à ongles filmogène à milieu aqueux formant un film présentant de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques telles que l'adhérence et la brillance, n'étant pas collant et pouvant se détacher par pelage de la surface du support sur laquelle le film est déposé, par exemple de la surface des ongles, tout en étant également démaquillable avec les dissolvants classiques à base d'acétone et ou d'acétate d'éthyle. Le demandeur a constaté qu'une telle composition pouvait être obtenue en employant un polyurethane particulier, notamment en dispersion aqueuse.The object of the present invention is to provide a film-forming nail varnish composition with an aqueous medium forming a film having good cosmetic properties such as adhesion and gloss, not being sticky and capable of being peeled off from the surface. of the support on which the film is deposited, for example of the surface of the nails, while also being cleansable with conventional solvents based on acetone and or ethyl acetate. The applicant has noted that such a composition could be obtained by using a particular polyurethane, in particular in aqueous dispersion.
Plus précisément, l'invention a pour objet une composition de vernis à ongles comprenant, dans un milieu cosmetiquement acceptable, un polyurethane obtenu par polycondensation du diisocyanate de tetramethylxylylene.More specifically, the subject of the invention is a composition of nail varnish comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a polyurethane obtained by polycondensation of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate.
L'invention a également pour objet un procédé cosmétique de maquillage et/ou de soin non thérapeutique des ongles comprenant l'application sur les ongles d'une composition telle que définie précédemment.The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of the nails comprising the application to the nails of a composition as defined above.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation d'une composition telle que définie précédemment pour l'obtention d'un film, déposé sur les ongles, pelable et/ou démaquillable à l'acétone et/ou à l'acétate d'éthyle, et/ou comme vernis à ongles pelable.The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for obtaining a film, deposited on the nails, peelable and / or removable with acetone and / or acetate. ethyl, and / or as a peelable nail polish.
L'invention a aussi pour objet l'utilisation d'un polyurethane, notamment en dispersion aqueuse, obtenu par polycondensation du diisocyanate de tetramethylxylylene, dans une composition de vernis à ongles pour l'obtention d'un film, déposé sur les ongles, pelable et/ou démaquillable à l'acétone et ou à l'acétate d'éthyle.The subject of the invention is also the use of a polyurethane, in particular in aqueous dispersion, obtained by polycondensation of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, in a composition of nail varnish for obtaining a film, deposited on the nails, peelable and / or can be removed with acetone and or with ethyl acetate.
Le polyurethane présent dans la composition selon l'invention est un polyurethane de diisocyanate de tetramethylxylylene (TMXDI). Un tel polyurethane présente également l'avantage de pouvoir être préparé sans utiliser de N-méthyl pyrroli- done ou d'acétone, permettant ainsi l'utilisation de ce polyurethane en cosmétique sans rencontrer les problèmes liés à la présence de tels solvants organiques.The polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is a polyurethane of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate (TMXDI). Such a polyurethane also has the advantage of being able to be prepared without using N-methyl pyrrolidone or acetone, thus allowing the use of this polyurethane in cosmetics without encountering the problems associated with the presence of such organic solvents.
Ledit diisocyanate de tetramethylxylylene, appelé également le bis-(1 -isocyanato- 1 -méthyléthyl) benzène (ayant pour Registry Number 58067-42-8) peut être le dii- socyanate de méta-tétraméthylxylylène (méta-TMXDI), appelé également méta- bis-(1 -isocyanato-1 -méthyléthyl) benzène, ou le diisocyanate de para- tétraméthylxylylène (para-TMXDI), appelé également para-bis-(1 -isocyanato-1 - méthyléthyl) benzène, et de préférence est le méta-TMXDI. Le diisocyanate de méta-tétraméthylxylylène a pour formule :Said tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, also called bis- (1 -isocyanato- 1 -methylethyl) benzene (having for Registry Number 58067-42-8) may be meta-tetramethylxylylene (meta-TMXDI) diisocyanate, also called meta - bis- (1 -isocyanato-1 -methylethyl) benzene, or para-tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate (para-TMXDI), also called para-bis- (1-isocyanato-1 - methylethyl) benzene, and preferably is meta -TMXDI. The meta-tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate has the formula:
Figure imgf000004_0001
Figure imgf000004_0001
Le diisocyanate de para-tétraméthylxylylène a pour formule :The para-tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate has the formula:
Figure imgf000004_0002
Figure imgf000004_0002
Ledit polyurethane est, de façon connue, obtenu par polycondensation dudit diiso- cyanate avec au moins un diol. Avantageusement, le diol comporte des groupes hydroxyles primaires.Said polyurethane is, in known manner, obtained by polycondensation of said diisocyanate with at least one diol. Advantageously, the diol has primary hydroxyl groups.
Le diol peut être choisi parmi les monomères diols ou les polymères diols.The diol can be chosen from diol monomers or diol polymers.
Le monomère diol peut être notamment choisi parmi les diols aliphatiques, alicy- cliques, aromatiques. On utilise de préférence un diol choisi parmi l'éthylène gly- col, le diéthylène glycol, le Méthylène glycol, le 1 ,3-propanediol, le cyclohexane diméthanol, le 4-butanediol.The diol monomer can in particular be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, methylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol is used.
Le polymère diol peut être choisi parmi les polyesters diols ou les polyéther diols, et de préférence parmi les polyesters diols.The polymer diol can be chosen from polyester diols or polyether diols, and preferably from polyester diols.
Le polyester diol peut être par exemple obtenu par réaction d'acide dicarboxylique en présence de diol, notamment en excès.The polyester diol can for example be obtained by reaction of dicarboxylic acid in the presence of diol, in particular in excess.
L'acide dicarboxylique peut être aliphatique, alicyclique ou aromatique. On peut citer comme exemple de tels acides : l'acide oxalique, l'acide malonique, l'acide dimethylmalonique, l'acide succinique, l'acide glutarique, l'acide adipique, l'acide pimélique, l'acide 2,2-diméthylglutarique, l'acide azélaïque, l'acide subérique, l'acide sébacique, l'acide fumarique, l'acide maléique, l'acide itaconique, l'acide phtalique, l'acide dodécanedioïque, l'acide 1 ,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylique, l'acide 1 ,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylique, l'acide isophtalique, l'acide téréphtalique, l'acide diglycolique, l'acide thiodipropionique, l'acide 2,5-naphtalènedicarboxylique, l'acide 2,6-naphta-lènedicarboxylique. Ces monomères acide dicarboxylique peuvent être utilisés seuls ou en combinaison d'au moins deux monomères acide dicarboxylique. Parmi ces monomères, on choisit préférentiellement un acide dicarboxylique comprenant de 4 à 8 atomes de carbone, comme l'acide phtalique ou l'acide succinique. Le diol peut comprendre de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone et peut être par exemple Péthylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol ou le cyclohexanediméthanol.The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, a dicarboxylic acid preferably comprising 4 to 8 carbon atoms is chosen, such as phthalic acid or succinic acid. The diol can comprise from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and can be for example ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or cyclohexanedimethanol.
Le polyéther diol peut être choisi parmi les polyéthylène glycol et les polypropylè- neglycols, notamment ceux ayant de 2 à 50 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène ou d'oxyde de propylène).The polyether diol can be chosen from polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycols, in particular those having from 2 to 50 units of ethylene oxide or of propylene oxide).
Avantageusement, le polyurethane est un polyurethane anionique, notamment un polyurethane comprenant au moins un groupe acide carboxylique. Dans ce cas, le polyurethane résulte de la polycondensation d'au moins un diol ayant au moins Un groupe acide carboxylique, comme par exemple l'acide 2,2-diméthylol propionique ou l'acide 2,2-diméthylol butyrique.Advantageously, the polyurethane is an anionic polyurethane, in particular a polyurethane comprising at least one carboxylic acid group. In this case, the polyurethane results from the polycondensation of at least one diol having at least one carboxylic acid group, such as, for example, 2,2-dimethylol propionic acid or 2,2-dimethylol butyric acid.
De préférence, le groupe acide carboxylique présent dans le polyurethane peut être neutralisé avec une base. La base peut être choisie parmi les bases minérales comme le carbonate de sodium ou le carbonate de potassium ainsi que l'ammoniaque, ou les bases organiques comme les aminoalcools tels que le 2- amino-2-méthyl-1 -propanol (AMP), la triéthanolamine, la triisopropanolamine (TIPA), la monoéthanolamine, la diéthanolamine, la tri[(2-hydroxy)-1-propyl]amine, le 2-amino-2-méthyl-1 ,3-propanediol (AMPD) ou le 2-amino-2-hydroxyméthyl-1 ,3- propanediol ainsi que les diamines, comme la lysine.Preferably, the carboxylic acid group present in the polyurethane can be neutralized with a base. The base can be chosen from mineral bases such as sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate as well as ammonia, or organic bases such as amino alcohols such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine (TIPA), monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, tri [(2-hydroxy) -1-propyl] amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol (AMPD) or 2 -amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1, 3-propanediol as well as diamines, such as lysine.
La base est de préférence choisie parmi l'ammoniaque, la soude, la triéthylamine.The base is preferably chosen from ammonia, sodium hydroxide, triethylamine.
Le polyurethane peut comprendre, en outre, un monomère additionnel choisi parmi les diamines et les aminoalcools. Comme diamines, on peut citer l'éthylènediamine, l'hexaméthylènediamine, la meta- ou para-phénylènediamine. Comme aminoalcool, on peut citer la monoéthanolamine.The polyurethane can also comprise an additional monomer chosen from diamines and amino alcohols. As diamines, there may be mentioned ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine. As amino alcohol, mention may be made of monoethanolamine.
De préférence, ledit polyurethane est exempt de groupe isocyanate n'ayant pas réagi.Preferably, said polyurethane is free of unreacted isocyanate group.
Le polyurethane peut avoir un poids moléculaire moyen en poids allant de 2000 à 1000000.The polyurethane can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 1000000.
Le polyurethane présent dans la composition selon l'invention se présente de préférence sous la forme de particules solides en dispersion aqueuse, connu généralement sous le nom de latex ou pseudolatex.The polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex.
Le polyurethane en dispersion aqueuse peut se présenter sous forme de particules solides ayant une taille allant de 10 nm à 500 nm, de préférence allant de 20 nm à 300 nm, préférentiellement allant de 50 nm à 200 nm, et plus préférentielle- ment allant de 100 nm à 150 nm. De telles particules permettent d'obtenir un film d'une brillance particulièrement élevée et durable.The polyurethane in aqueous dispersion may be in the form of solid particles having a size ranging from 10 nm to 500 nm, preferably ranging from 20 nm to 300 nm, preferably ranging from 50 nm to 200 nm, and more preferably ranging from 100 nm to 150 nm. Such particles make it possible to obtain a film with a particularly high and lasting gloss.
Selon un mode de réalisation de la composition selon l'invention, le polyurethane peut avoir une température de transition vitreuse supérieure ou égale à 20 °C, notamment allant de 20 °C à 50 °C, de préférence supérieure ou égale à 30 °C, notamment allant de 30 °C à 50 °C, avantageusement supérieure ou égale à 35 °C, notamment allant de 35 °C à 50 °C.According to one embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the polyurethane may have a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 20 ° C, in particular ranging from 20 ° C to 50 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C , especially ranging from 30 ° C to 50 ° C, advantageously greater than or equal to 35 ° C, especially ranging from 35 ° C to 50 ° C.
La mesure de la température de transition vitreuse (Tg) du polymère peut être effectuée par DMTA (Dynamical and Mechanical Température Analysis ou Analyse dynamique et mécanique de température).The measurement of the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polymer can be carried out by DMTA (Dynamical and Mechanical Temperature Analysis).
Pour mesurer la température de transition vitreuse (Tg) d'un polymère, on effectue des essais de viscoélasticimétrie avec un appareil DMTA de TA instruments, sur un échantillon de film de polymère ayant par exemple une épaisseur d'environ 100 μm d'épaisseur, une largeur d'environ 5 mm et une longueur d'environ 10 mm, obtenu notamment après séchage pendant 24 heures à 30 °C, sous 50 % d'humidité relative. On impose à cet échantillon une sollicitation de traction. L'échantillon su- bit une force statique de 0,01 N à laquelle se superpose un déplacement sinusoïdal de ± 8 μm à la fréquence de 1 Hz. On travaille ainsi dans le domaine linéaire, sous de faibles niveaux de déformation. Cette sollicitation de traction est effectuée sur l'échantillon à des températures variant de -150 °C à + 220 °C, avec une variation de température de 3 °C par minute.To measure the glass transition temperature (Tg) of a polymer, viscoelasticimetry tests are carried out with a DMTA device from TA instruments, on a sample of polymer film having for example a thickness of approximately 100 μm in thickness, a width of approximately 5 mm and a length of approximately 10 mm, obtained in particular after drying for 24 hours at 30 ° C, under 50% relative humidity. This sample is subjected to a tensile stress. The following sample bit a static force of 0.01 N to which is superposed a sinusoidal displacement of ± 8 μm at the frequency of 1 Hz. One thus works in the linear field, under weak levels of deformation. This tensile stress is applied to the sample at temperatures varying from -150 ° C to + 220 ° C, with a temperature variation of 3 ° C per minute.
On mesure alors le module complexe E* = E' + iE" du polymère testé en fonction de la température.The complex modulus E * = E '+ iE "of the polymer tested is then measured as a function of the temperature.
De ces mesures, on déduit les modules dynamiques E', E" et le pouvoir amortissant : tgδ = EVE'. Puis on trace la courbe des valeurs de tgδ en fonction de la température ; cette courbe présente au moins un pic. La température de transition vitreuse Tg du polymère correspond à la température à laquelle se situe le sommet de ce pic.From these measurements, we deduce the dynamic modules E ', E "and the damping power: tgδ = EVE'. Then we draw the curve of the values of tgδ as a function of the temperature; this curve has at least one peak. The temperature of glass transition Tg of the polymer corresponds to the temperature at which the top of this peak is situated.
Avantageusement, le polyurethane est tel que la dureté d'un film obtenu après séchage, durant 24 heures à 30 °C et à 50 % d'humidité relative, d'une couche de 300 μm d'épaisseur (avant séchage) d'une dispersion aqueuse à 28 % de matière sèche de particules de polyurethane et de 1 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de polyurethane, de n-butyl éther de dipropylène glycol va de 50 à 200 secondes, de préférence de 60 à 150 secondes, et mieux de 80 à 150 secondes. La dureté du film est mesurée selon la norme ASTM D-43-66, ou la norme NF-T 30-016 (octobre 1981), à l'aide d'un pendule de Persoz.Advantageously, the polyurethane is such that the hardness of a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours at 30 ° C. and at 50% relative humidity, of a layer 300 μm thick (before drying) of a aqueous dispersion at 28% of dry matter of polyurethane particles and of 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of polyurethane, of n-butyl ether of dipropylene glycol ranges from 50 to 200 seconds, preferably from 60 to 150 seconds, and better from 80 to 150 seconds. The hardness of the film is measured according to standard ASTM D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
Comme exemple de polyurethane, on peut citer ceux vendus sous les dénominations « CYDROTHANE® HP 1035 », « CYDROTHANE® HP 4033 », « CYDROTHANE® HP 5035 », « CYDROTHANE® HP 6000 » par la société CYTEC.As an example of a polyurethane, mention may be made of those sold under the names “CYDROTHANE® HP 1035”, “CYDROTHANE® HP 4033”, “CYDROTHANE® HP 5035”, “CYDROTHANE® HP 6000” by the company CYTEC.
Dans la composition selon l'invention, le polyurethane peut être présent en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 60 % en poids de matières sèches, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 1 % à 50 % en poids et mieux de 5 % à 40 % en poids. Avantageusement, le polyurethane présent dans la composition selon l'invention est un polyurethane filmogène : le polyurethane est apte a former à lui seul ou en présence d'un agent auxiliaire de filmification, un film continu et adhérent sur un support, notamment sur les matières kératiniques.In the composition according to the invention, the polyurethane can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight and better from 5% to 40% by weight. Advantageously, the polyurethane present in the composition according to the invention is a film-forming polyurethane: the polyurethane is capable on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of a continuous film which adheres to a support, in particular on materials keratin.
Pour améliorer les propriétés filmogènes de la composition, un agent auxiliaire de filmification peut être présent dans la composition. Un tel agent auxiliaire de filmification peut être choisi parmi tous les composés connus de l'homme du métier comme étant susceptibles de remplir la fonction recherchée, et notamment parmi les agents plastifiants et les agents de coalescence.To improve the film-forming properties of the composition, an auxiliary film-forming agent may be present in the composition. Such an auxiliary film-forming agent can be chosen from all the compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular from plasticizing agents and coalescing agents.
Comme exemple de plastifiant, on peut citer : les adipates tels que l'adipate de diéthyle, l'adipate de dibutyle, l'adipate de di- isobutyle, l'adipate de di-isopropyle, les sébacates tels que le sébacate de diméthyle, le sébacate de diéthyle, le séba- cate de dibutyle, les citrates tels que le citrate de triéthyle, le citrate d'acétyl triéthyle, le citrate d'acétyl tributyle, les phtalates tels que le phtalate de diéthyle, le phtalate de dibutyle, le phtalate de dioctyle.As an example of plasticizer, there may be mentioned: adipates such as diethyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, di-isobutyl adipate, di-isopropyl adipate, sebacates such as dimethyl sebacate, diethyl sebacate, dibutyl sebacate, citrates such as triethyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, phthalates such as diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate.
L'agent plastifiant peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une quantité suffisante pour plastifier le film de polymère déposé sur les ongles. En particulier, la teneur en agent plastifiant dans la composition peut aller de 0,05 % à 20 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et mieux de 0,1 % à 10 % en poids.The plasticizing agent can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount sufficient to plasticize the polymer film deposited on the nails. In particular, the content of plasticizer in the composition can range from 0.05% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight.
Comme agent de coalescence, on peut citer : les éthers de propylène glycol tels que le n-butyl éther de propylène glycol, le t- butyl éther de propylène glycol, le n-propyl éther de propylène glycol, le phényl éther de propylène glycol, les éthers de dipropylène glycol tels que le n-butyl éther de dipropylène glycol, le méthyl éther de dipropylène glycol, le t-butyl éther de dipropylène glycol, le n- propyl éther de dipropylène glycol, l'acétate du méthyl éther de propylène glycol, le diacétate de propylène glycol, le lactate de méthyle, le lactate d'éthyle, le lactate d'isopropyle, le lactate de bu- tyle.As coalescing agent, there may be mentioned: propylene glycol ethers such as propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol t-butyl ether, propylene glycol n-propyl ether, propylene glycol phenyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethers such as dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol t-butyl ether, dipropylene glycol n-propyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether acetate, propylene glycol diacetate, methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, isopropyl lactate, butyl lactate.
L'agent de coalescence peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,05 % à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et mieux de 0,1 % à 8 % en poids.The coalescing agent can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight. weight.
Le milieu de la composition de l'invention est avantageusement un milieu aqueux. Ce milieu aqueux peut être constitué essentiellement d'eau. La teneur en eau dans la composition peut aller de 10 % à 95 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 40 % à 90 % en poids, et mieux de 60 % à 85 % en poids.The medium of the composition of the invention is advantageously an aqueous medium. This aqueous medium can consist essentially of water. The water content in the composition can range from 10% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, and better still from 60% to 85% by weight.
La composition peut comprendre également un solvant miscible à l'eau comme les monoalcools inférieurs ayant de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, les glycols ayant de 2 à 8 atomes de carbone, les cétones en C3-C4, les aldéhydes en C2-C4, notamment en une teneur pouvant aller de 0,1 % à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.The composition can also comprise a water-miscible solvent such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes, in particular in a content which can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut également comprendre un agent épaississant, en particulier un agent épaississant de milieu aqueux, tels que les argiles gonflant dans l'eau comme les hectorites, les bentonites, les épaississants associatifs tels que les polyuréthanes associatifs, les polymères acryliques associatifs, les épaississants cellulosiques hydrosolubles tels que l'hydroxyéthylcellulose. L'agent épaississant peut être présent en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la compositionThe composition according to the invention may also comprise a thickening agent, in particular a thickening agent for an aqueous medium, such as clays swelling in water such as hectorites, bentonites, associative thickeners such as associative polyurethanes, acrylic polymers associative, water-soluble cellulosic thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose. The thickening agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
La composition selon l'invention peut en outre comprendre des matières colorantes telles que les colorants hydrosolubles, les matières colorantes pulvérulentes comme les pigments, les nacres, les paillettes bien connues de l'homme du métier. Les matières colorantes peuvent être présentes, dans la composition, en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition, de préférence de 0,01 % à 30 % en poids. Par pigments, il faut comprendre des particules de toute forme, blanches ou colorées, minérales ou organiques, insolubles dans le milieu physiologique, destinées à colorer la composition.The composition according to the invention can also comprise coloring materials such as water-soluble dyes, pulverulent coloring materials such as pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes well known to those skilled in the art. The coloring matters can be present, in the composition, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight. The term “pigments” should be understood to mean particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.
Par nacres, il faut comprendre des particules de toute forme irisées, notamment produites par certains mollusques dans leur coquille ou bien synthétisées.By nacres, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent shape, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized.
Les pigments peuvent être blancs ou colorés, minéraux et/ou organiques. On peut citer, parmi les pigments minéraux, le dioxyde de titane, éventuellement traité en surface, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de zinc, de fer (noir, jaune ou rouge) ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome et le bleu ferrique, les poudres métalliques comme la poudre d'aluminium, la poudre de cuivre.The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metallic powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.
Parmi les pigments organiques, on peut citer le noir de carbone, les pigments de type D & C, et les laques à base de carmin de cochenille, de baryum, strontium, calcium, aluminium.Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
Les pigments nacrés peuvent être choisis parmi les pigments nacrés blancs tels que le mica recouvert de titane, ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth, les pigments nacrés colorés tels que le mica titane recouvert avec des oxydes de fer, le mica titane recouvert avec notamment du bleu ferrique ou de l'oxyde de chrome, le mica titane recouvert avec un pigment organique du type précité ainsi que les pigments nacrés à base d'oxychlorure de bismuth.The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, mica titanium coated with in particular blue ferric or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
Les colorants hydrosolubles sont par exemple le jus de betterave, le bleu de méthylène.The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre en outre des charges, notamment en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 0,01 % à 30 % en poids. Par charges, il faut comprendre des particules de toute forme, incolores ou blanches, minérales ou de synthèse, insolubles dans le milieu de la composition quelle que soit la température à laquelle la composition est fabriquée. Ces charges servent notamment à modifier la rhéologie ou la texture de la composition. Les charges peuvent être minérales ou organiques de toute forme, plaquettaires, sphériques ou oblongues, quelle que soit la forme cristailographique ( par exemple feuillet, cubique, hexagonale, orthorombique, etc) . On peut citer le talc, le mica, la silice, le kaolin, les poudres de polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® de chez Atochem), de poly-β-alanine et de polyéthylène, les poudres de polymères de tétrafluoroéthy- lène (Téflon®), la lauroyl-lysine, l'amidon, le nitrure de bore, les microsphères creuses polymériques telles que celles de chlorure de polyvinylidène/acrylonitrile comme PExpancel® (Nobel Industrie), de copolymères d'acide acrylique (Poly- trap® de la société Dow Corning) et les microbilles, de résine de silicone (Tos- pearls® de Toshiba, par exemple), les particules de polyorganosiloxanes élasto- mères, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydro-carbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microsphères de silice creuses (Silica Beads® de Maprecos), les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, par exemple le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium.The composition according to the invention may also comprise fillers, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. weight. By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. These charges are used in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers ( Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as PExpancel® (Nobel Industry), of acrylic acid copolymers (Poly-trap® from Dow Corning) and microbeads, silicone resin (Toshiba pearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate , hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, by for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.
La composition selon l'invention peut en outre comprendre tout additif cosmétique connu de l'homme du métier comme étant susceptible d'être incorporé dans une telle composition, tels que les polymères filmogènes additionnels (différents du polyurethane décrit précédemment), les agents d'étalement, les agents mouillants, les agents dispersants, les anti-mousses, les huiles, les cires, les conservateurs, les filtres UV, les actifs, les tensioactifs, les agents hydratants, les parfums, les neutralisants, les stabilisants, les antioxydants.The composition according to the invention can also comprise any cosmetic additive known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of being incorporated into such a composition, such as additional film-forming polymers (other than the polyurethane described above), spreading, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, oils, waxes, preservatives, UV filters, active agents, surfactants, hydrating agents, perfumes, neutralizers, stabilizers, antioxidants.
Bien entendu, l'homme du métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires, et/ou leur quantité, de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses de la composition correspondante selon l'invention ne soient pas, ou subs- tantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée.Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered. by the proposed addition.
La composition de l'invention peut être obtenue selon les procédés de préparation classiquement utilisés en cosmétique. L'invention est illustrée plus en détail dans les exemples suivants.The composition of the invention can be obtained according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.
Exemple 1 :Example 1:
On a préparé un vernis à ongles ayant la composition suivanteWe prepared a nail polish having the following composition
- Dispersion aqueuse de polyurethane à 35 % en poids de matières sèches vendue sous la dénomination- Aqueous dispersion of polyurethane at 35% by weight of dry matter sold under the name
« CYDROTHANE® HP 6000 » par la société CYTEC 31 g MA"CYDROTHANE® HP 6000" by the company CYTEC 31 g MA
- n-butyl éther de dipropylène glycol 1 9- n-butyl ether of dipropylene glycol 1 9
- Polyurethane associatif vendu sous la dénomination « Serad FX 1100 » par la société SERVO HULS 0,1 g- Associative polyurethane sold under the name "Serad FX 1100" by the company SERVO HULS 0.1 g
- Ethanol 4 g- Ethanol 4 g
- Pigments 1 9- Pigments 1 9
- Conservateurs qs- Preservatives qs
- Eau qsp 100 g- Water qs 100 g
On obtient un vernis à ongles qui s'applique facilement sur les ongles et forme après séchage un film brillant, non collant. Le film se détache facilement de la surface de l'ongle par pelage. Le film de vernis se démaquille également aisément avec le démaquillant vendu sous la dénomination Lancôme Douceur.A nail varnish is obtained which is easily applied to the nails and forms, after drying, a shiny, non-sticky film. The film easily peels off the surface of the nail. The varnish film can also be removed easily with the makeup remover sold under the name Lancôme Douceur.
Exemple 2 :Example 2:
On prépare un vernis à ongles ayant la composition suivanteA nail varnish having the following composition is prepared
- Dispersion aqueuse de polyurethane à 35 % en poids de matières sèches vendue sous la dénomination « CYDROTHANE® HP 5035 » par la société CYTEC 31 g MA - Polyurethane associatif vendu sous la dénomination- Aqueous dispersion of polyurethane at 35% by weight of dry matter sold under the name "CYDROTHANE® HP 5035" by the company CYTEC 31 g MA - Associative polyurethane sold under the name
« Serad FX 1100 » par la société SERVO HULS 0,15 g“Serad FX 1100” by SERVO HULS 0.15 g
- Ethanol 4 g - Pigments 1 g- Ethanol 4 g - Pigments 1 g
- Conservateurs qs- Preservatives qs
- Eau qsp 100 g- Water qs 100 g
Ce vernis appliqué sur les ongles forme un film brillant, non collant, qui se pellicule facilement. Le film de vernis se démaquille aussi avec le démaquillant vendu sous la dénomination Lancôme Douceur. This varnish applied to the nails forms a shiny, non-sticky film, which films easily. The varnish film can also be removed with the makeup remover sold under the name Lancôme Douceur.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition de vernis à ongles comprenant, dans un milieu cosmetiquement acceptable, un polyurethane filmogène obtenu par polycondensation du diisocyanate de tetramethylxylylene.1. A nail varnish composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a film-forming polyurethane obtained by polycondensation of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée par le fait que ledit isocya- nate est le diisocyanate de méta-tétraméthylxylylène.2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said isocyanate is meta-tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2 , caractérisée par le fait que ledit polyurethane est obtenu par polycondensation dudit diisocyanate avec au moins un diol choisi parmi les monomères diols ou les polymères diols.3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said polyurethane is obtained by polycondensation of said diisocyanate with at least one diol chosen from diol monomers or diol polymers.
4. Composition selon la revendication 3, caractérisée par le fait que le monomère diol est choisi parmi l'éthylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol, le triéthylène glycol, le 1 ,3-propanediol, le cyclohexane diméthanol, le 4-butanediol.4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the diol monomer is chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol.
5. Composition selon la revendication 4, caractérisée par le fait que le polymère diol est choisi parmi les polyesters diols ou les polyéther diols.5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the diol polymer is chosen from polyester diols or polyether diols.
6. Composition selon la revendication 5, caractérisée par le fait que le polyester diol est obtenu par réaction d'un acide dicarboxylique comprenant de 4 à 8 atomes de carbone et d'un diol.6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the polyester diol is obtained by reaction of a dicarboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and a diol.
7. Composition selon la revendication 6, caractérisée par le fait que ledit acide dicarboxylique est l'acide phtalique ou l'acide succinique.7. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the said dicarboxylic acid is phthalic acid or succinic acid.
8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 7, caractérisée par le fait que polyester diol est obtenu par réaction d'un acide dicarboxylique et d' un diol comprenant de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone.8. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that polyester diol is obtained by reaction of a dicarboxylic acid and a diol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
9. Composition selon la revendication 8, caractérisée par le fait que ledit diol est choisi parmi l'éthylène glycol, le diéthylèneglycol, le cyclohexanediméthanol. 9. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the said diol is chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol.
10. Composition selon la revendication 5, caractérisée par le fait que le polyéther diol est choisi parmi les polyéthylène glycol et les polypropylèneglycols, notamment ceux ayant de 2 à 50 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène ou d'oxyde de propylène.10. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the polyether diol is chosen from polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycols, in particular those having from 2 to 50 units of ethylene oxide or of propylene oxide.
11. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane est un polyurethane anionique.11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane is an anionic polyurethane.
12. Composition selon la revendication 11 , caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane comprenant au moins un groupe acide carboxylique.12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the polyurethane comprising at least one carboxylic acid group.
13. Composition selon la revendication 11 ou 12, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane résulte de la polycondensation d'au moins un diol choisi parmi l'acide 2,2-diméthylol propionique ou l'acide 2,2-diméthylol butyrique.13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the polyurethane results from the polycondensation of at least one diol chosen from 2,2-dimethylol propionic acid or 2,2-dimethylol butyric acid.
14. Composition selon l'une des revendications 11 ou 12, caractérisée par le fait que le groupe acide carboxylique présent dans le polyurethane est neutralisé, partiellement ou totalement, avec une base.14. Composition according to one of claims 11 or 12, characterized in that the carboxylic acid group present in the polyurethane is neutralized, partially or completely, with a base.
15. Composition selon la revendication 14, caractérisée par le fait que la base est choisie parmi le carbonate de sodium, le carbonate de potassium, l'ammoniaque, le 2-amino-2-méthyl-1-propanol, la triéthanolamine, la triisopropanolamine, la mo- noéthanolamine, la diéthanplamine, la tri[(2-hydroxy)-1-propyl]amine, le 2-amino- 2-méthyl-1 ,3-propanediol, le 2-amino-2-hydroxyméthyl-1 ,3-propanediol, la lysine.15. Composition according to Claim 14, characterized in that the base is chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, ammonia, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine , monethanolamine, diethanplamine, tri [(2-hydroxy) -1-propyl] amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1, 3-propanediol, lysine.
16. Composition selon la revendication 14 ou 15, caractérisée par le fait que la base est choisie parmi l'ammoniaque, la soude, la triéthylamine.16. Composition according to claim 14 or 15, characterized in that the base is chosen from ammonia, soda, triethylamine.
17. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane comprend un monomère additionnel choisi parmi les diamines et les aminoalcools.17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane comprises an additional monomer chosen from diamines and amino alcohols.
18. Composition selon la revendication 17, caractérisée par le fait que le monomère additionnel est choisi parmi Péthylènediamine, Phexaméthylènediamine, la meta- ou para-phénylènediamine, la monoéthanolamine. 18. Composition according to Claim 17, characterized in that the additional monomer is chosen from ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine, monoethanolamine.
19. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane a un poids moléculaire moyen en poids allant de 2000 à 1000000.19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 1000000.
20. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane est filmogène.20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane is film-forming.
21. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caracté- risée par le fait que le polyurethane a une température de transition vitreuse supérieure ou égale à 20 °C, de préférence supérieure ou égale à 30 °C, avantageusement supérieure ou égale à 35 °C.21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C, advantageously greater than or equal to 35 ° C.
22. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane est sous forme de particules solides en dispersion aqueuse.22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane is in the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion.
23. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane est tel que la dureté d'un film obtenu après sé- chage, durant 24 heures à 30 °C et à 50 % d'humidité relative, d'une couche de 300 μm d'épaisseur (avant séchage) d'une dispersion aqueuse à 28 % de matière sèche de particules de polyurethane; et de 1 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de polyurethane, de n-butyl éther de dipropylène glycol va de 50 à 200 secondes, de préférence de 60 à 150 secondes, et mieux de 80 à 150 secondes," la dureté du film étant mesurée selon la norme ASTM D-43-66, ou la norme NF-T 30-016 (octobre 1981), à l'aide d'un pendule de Persoz.23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane is such that the hardness of a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours at 30 ° C and at 50% relative humidity, a 300 μm thick layer (before drying) of a 28% aqueous dispersion of dry matter of polyurethane particles; and from 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of polyurethane, of n-butyl ether of dipropylene glycol ranges from 50 to 200 seconds, preferably from 60 to 150 seconds, and better still from 80 to 150 seconds, " the hardness of the film being measured according to standard ASTM D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
24. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane se présente sous forme de particules solides ayant une taille allant de 10 nm à 500 nm, de préférence allant de 20 nm à 300 nm, préférentiellement allant de 50 nm à 200 nm, et plus préférentiellement allant de 100 nm à 150 nm. 24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane is in the form of solid particles having a size ranging from 10 nm to 500 nm, preferably ranging from 20 nm to 300 nm, preferably ranging from 50 nm to 200 nm, and more preferably ranging from 100 nm to 150 nm.
25. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le polyurethane est présent en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 60 % en poids de matières sèches, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 1 % à 50 % en poids et mieux de 5 % à 40 % en poids.25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyurethane is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight and better still from 5% to 40% by weight.
26. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comprend un agent auxiliaire de filmification.26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an auxiliary film-forming agent.
27. Composition selon la revendication 26, caractérisée par le fait que l'agent auxi- liaire de filmification est choisi parmi les agents plastifiants et les agents de coalescence.27. Composition according to Claim 26, characterized in that the auxiliary film-forming agent is chosen from plasticizing agents and coalescing agents.
28. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comprend de l'eau en une teneur allant de 10 % à 95 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 40 % à 90 % en poids, et mieux de 60 % à 85 % en poids.28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 10% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 40 % to 90% by weight, and better still from 60% to 85% by weight.
29. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comprend un solvant miscible à l'eau choisi parmi les mo- noalcools inférieurs ayant de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, les glycols ayant de 2 à 8 atomes de carbone, les cétones en C3-C4, les aldéhydes en C2-C4, notamment en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a water-miscible solvent chosen from lower monohydric alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, the glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
30. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comprend un agent épaississant.30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a thickening agent.
31. Composition selon la revendication 30, caractérisée par le fait que l'agent épaississant est choisi parmi les argiles gonflant dans l'eau, les épaississants as- sociatifs, les épaississants cellulosiques hydrosolubles.31. Composition according to claim 30, characterized in that the thickening agent is chosen from clays swelling in water, associative thickeners, water-soluble cellulosic thickeners.
32. Composition selon la revendication 30 ou 31 , caractérisée par le fait que l'agent épaississant est présent en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition 32. Composition according to claim 30 or 31, characterized in that the thickening agent is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
33. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comprend une matière colorante.33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a coloring material.
34. Composition selon la revendication 33, caractérisée par le fait que la matière colorante est choisie parmi les colorants hydrosolubles, les pigments, les nacres, les paillettes.34. Composition according to claim 33, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from water-soluble dyes, pigments, nacres, glitter.
35. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caracté- risée par le fait qu'elle comprend un additif cosmétique choisi parmi les charges, les polymères filmogènes additionnels, les agents d'étalement, les agents mouillants, les agents dispersants, les anti-mousses, les huiles, les cires, les conservateurs, les filtres UV, les actifs, les tensioactifs, les agents hydratants, les parfums, les neutralisants, les stabilisants, les antioxydants.35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic additive chosen from fillers, additional film-forming polymers, spreading agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, oils, waxes, preservatives, UV filters, active ingredients, surfactants, hydrating agents, perfumes, neutralizers, stabilizers, antioxidants.
36. Procédé cosmétique de maquillage et/ou de soin non thérapeutique des ongles comprenant l'application sur les ongles d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 35.36. Cosmetic method for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of the nails comprising the application to the nails of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35.
37. Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 35 pour l'obtention d'un film, déposé sur ongles, pelable et/ou démaquillable à l'acétone et/ou à l'acétate d'éthyle, et/ou comme vernis à ongles pelable.37. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35 for obtaining a film, deposited on nails, peelable and / or cleansable with acetone and / or ethyl acetate, and / or as a peelable nail polish.
38. Utilisation d'un polyurethane, notamment en dispersion aqueuse, obtenu par polycondensation du diisocyanate de tetramethylxylylene, dans une composition de vernis à ongles pour l'obtention d'un film, déposé sur les ongles, pelable et/ou démaquillable à l'acétone et/ou à l'acétate d'éthyle. 38. Use of a polyurethane, in particular in aqueous dispersion, obtained by polycondensation of tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, in a nail varnish composition for obtaining a film, deposited on the nails, peelable and / or removable with acetone and / or ethyl acetate.
PCT/FR2002/003760 2001-11-07 2002-10-31 Nail varnish composition comprising a polyurethane WO2003039445A2 (en)

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FR0114395A FR2831797A1 (en) 2001-11-07 2001-11-07 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYURETHANE

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