WO2002089757A2 - Use of isoflavones in cosmetic or dermatological preparations - Google Patents

Use of isoflavones in cosmetic or dermatological preparations Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2002089757A2
WO2002089757A2 PCT/EP2002/004624 EP0204624W WO02089757A2 WO 2002089757 A2 WO2002089757 A2 WO 2002089757A2 EP 0204624 W EP0204624 W EP 0204624W WO 02089757 A2 WO02089757 A2 WO 02089757A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
isoflavone
hydroxy
cosmetic
dihydro
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PCT/EP2002/004624
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German (de)
French (fr)
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WO2002089757A3 (en
Inventor
Helga Biergiesser
Stefan Gallinat
Andreas Herpens
Kirsten Venzke
Uwe SCHÖNROCK
Franz STÄB
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2002089757A2 publication Critical patent/WO2002089757A2/en
Publication of WO2002089757A3 publication Critical patent/WO2002089757A3/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/33—Heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K31/335—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin
    • A61K31/35—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K45/00—Medicinal preparations containing active ingredients not provided for in groups A61K31/00 - A61K41/00
    • A61K45/06—Mixtures of active ingredients without chemical characterisation, e.g. antiphlogistics and cardiaca
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of special isoflavonoids in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis before and treatment of sensitive skin, itching and changes in the DNA synthesis and / or DNA repair performance in the skin.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with additional, effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for additional protection of cosmetic preparations themselves or for additional protection of the constituents of cosmetic preparations against harmful oxidation processes.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood to mean that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are said to exist
  • the chronological skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors.
  • the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective.
  • exogenous factors e.g. B.
  • Products for the care of sensitive, itchy and / or dry skin or products for the treatment of or prophylaxis against DNA damage are known per se. However, their effectiveness is limited.
  • UVC range rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm
  • UVB range rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
  • the narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.
  • UVA range It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is to be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.
  • UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.
  • Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly free radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals.
  • Undefined radical-free photo products that arise in the skin itself can also display uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity.
  • singlet oxygen a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others.
  • Singlet oxygen for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.
  • UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV rays, which in turn can oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.
  • antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations. It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative effect, in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.
  • the object of the invention was therefore to provide cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active substances and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably polymorphic light dermatosis.
  • Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin.
  • antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
  • antioxidants and radical scavengers are known.
  • US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 as well as numerous other documents, have proposed the use of vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant activity in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.
  • Another object of the present invention was therefore to address the disadvantages of the prior art the technology and in particular to permanently or sustainably eliminate the damage caused by environmental noxious substances without the risk of side effects or to prevent them.
  • Ipriflavone (7-isopropoxy-isoflavone), formononetin (7-hydroxy-4 '-Methoxyiso- flavone), ononin (formononetin-7-O-ß-D-glucopyranoside), 4' -lsopropy!
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, of isoflavones, based on the total composition of the preparations.
  • preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. uro- canic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-camosin, L-camosin and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. uro- canic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosin,
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, Ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, Lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lacto fe ⁇ in), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. B.
  • metal chelators eg ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lacto fe ⁇ in
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. B.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives Alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate vitamin E acetate
  • coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin Rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO) selenium and its derivatives.
  • stilbenes and their derivatives for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nu kleoside, peptides and lipids
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • the active compounds according to the invention for. B. as a so-called solid lipid nanoparts with the help of melted waxes, which, among other things, but not exclusively, can be selected from the group of ester waxes, triglyceride waxes or hydrocarbon waxes. Furthermore, it can be from It is advantageous to encapsulate the active compounds according to the invention in polymers, for. B. in particles based on highly cross-linked polymethacrylates and / or cellulose triacetates and / or as core / shell particles with a shell made of poly (oxymethylurea), nylon, polyamides, polyurethane, polyester, gelatin and polyolefins.
  • polymers for. B. in particles based on highly cross-linked polymethacrylates and / or cellulose triacetates and / or as core / shell particles with a shell made of poly (oxymethylurea), nylon, polyamides, polyurethane, polyester, gelatin and polyolefins.
  • the prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention are applied to the affected skin areas.
  • the active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can z. B. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in -Water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (OW / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a Pickering emulsion, a solid stick or an aerosol.
  • W / O type water-in-oil
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • OW / O oil-in-water-in-oil
  • Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention for. B. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z.
  • compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives.
  • auxiliaries and additives include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers other active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances etc.
  • Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration.
  • medicaments in an effective concentration.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis to use for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are favorable.
  • the preparations preferably contain, in addition to one or more active ingredients used according to the invention, at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
  • the formulations can, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 ⁇ 3), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
  • such pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or maintained be provided with a hydrophobic layer.
  • z. B titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are TiO 2 pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.
  • Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethyl polysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked at the end with trimethylsiloxy units.
  • Zinc oxide pigments which are coated in this way are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the inorganic pigments are also advantageous to coat with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also known as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic pigments are additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2). Titanium dioxides which are coated with simethicone and alumina are particularly advantageous, the coating also being able to contain water. An example of this is the titanium dioxide available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex T2000.
  • An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethyl! Butyl) - phenol) [INCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-% preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts , in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimizazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann & Reimer.
  • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding speaking sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives.
  • This is particularly preferred 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCl: Aniso Triazin), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [e.g.
  • UV filter substances which the structural motif
  • R represents a branched or unbranched CrC, 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group, i a branched or unbranched CrCis alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, one Ammonium group or a group of formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched CrC 18 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 2 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10
  • R 2 represents a branched or unbranched CrC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched CrC ⁇ 8 -Alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 8 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • a particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
  • dioctylbutylamidotriazon IRCl: dioctylbutamidotriazone
  • UVASORB HEB trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
  • a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCl: Oetyl Triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
  • R t , R 2 and Ai represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
  • Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ - 6- [4
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
  • the UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester
  • ⁇ esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • ⁇ salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself
  • ⁇ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as.
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (Octoerylen) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetics - see preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic active ingredients e.g. B. antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:
  • oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products.
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobuty
  • Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.
  • the group of esters is advantageously chosen from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl palate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeieosan, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2- 2- alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12- ⁇ s benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea- rat, mixtures of C ⁇ 2 . ⁇ 5 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures from C ⁇ 2 .i5-alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols with a low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- or - onoethylether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, e.g.
  • isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyaerylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • thickening agents which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyaerylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles
  • Gels used according to the invention usually contain low C-number alcohols, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener, which is used in oily alcoholic gels preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • low C-number alcohols e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener, which is used in oily alcoholic gels preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • Fixed pens contain e.g. B. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters.
  • liquid oils e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate
  • semi-solid components e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin
  • solid components e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite
  • high-melting waxes e.g. camauba wax, candelilla wax
  • Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations sprayable from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another , Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • Cosmetic preparations within the meaning of the present invention can also be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferably water, or organic thickeners, for.
  • the thickener is in the gel e.g. B.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain further active substances, in particular natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as, for example, B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, osmolytes, clover extract, hop or hop malt extract.
  • active substances such as, for example, B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, osmolytes, clover extract, hop or hop malt extract.
  • the content of these active ingredients is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.0001 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • isoflavones here in particular one or more of the following substances: ipriflavone (7-isopropoxy-isoflavone), formononetin (7-hydroxy-4 '-Methoxyisoflavon) ononin ( formononetin-7-O-ß-D-glucopyranoside), 4 '-lsopropyl isoflavone, mono-hydroxy-isoflavones, mono-hydroxy-dihydro-isoflavones, mono-hydroxy-tetrahydro-isoflavones, O- desmethylangolensin, dihydro-daidzein ( dihydro-7,4 '-dihydroxy isoflavone), tetrahydro-daidzein (tetrahydro-7,4' -dihydroxy isoflavone), genistein dihydro-(dihydro-5,7,4 '-tri- hydroxy isoflavone), genistein dihydro-(dihydro-5

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Abstract

The use of substances selected from the following group: ipriflavone (7 -isopropoxy-isoflavone), formononetin (7 -hydroxy-4'-hethoxyisoflavonr) ononin (formononetin-7-O-β-D-glucopyranoside) 4'-isopropyl-isoflavone, mono-hydroxy-isoflavone, mono-hydroxy-dihydro-isoflavone, mono-hydroxy- tetrahydro-isoflavone, O-desmethylangolensin, dihydro-daidzein (dihydro-7,4'- dihydroxy-isoflavone), tetrahy dro-daidzein (tetrahydro- 7,4'-dihydroxy-isoflavone), dihydro-genistein (dihydro-5,7,4'-trihydroxy-isoflavone), 2-dehydro-O-desmethyl-angolensin, dehydroequol, 4-hydroxy-7-glucose-isoflavone and 5-hydroy-7,4'-dimethoxy-isoflavone, in cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the treatment and prophylaxis of symptoms of inflammatory or itchy skin conditions in sensible skin and in modificiations of DNS synthesis and/or DNS repair in skin.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Beschreibungdescription
Verwendung von Isoflavonen in kosmetischen oder dermatologischenUse of isoflavones in cosmetic or dermatological
Zubereitungenpreparations
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft die Verwendung spezieller Isoflavonoide in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Prophylaxe vor und Behandlung von sensibler Haut, Juckreiz sowie von Veränderungen der DNS-Synthese- und/oder DNS- Reparaturleistung in der Haut.The present invention relates to the use of special isoflavonoids in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis before and treatment of sensitive skin, itching and changes in the DNA synthesis and / or DNA repair performance in the skin.
Insbesondere betrifft die vorliegende Erfindung kosmetische Zubereitungen mit einem zusätzlichen, wirksamen Schutz vor schädlichen Oxidationsprozessen in der Haut, aber auch zum zusätzlichen Schutz kosmetischer Zubereitungen selbst bzw. zum zusätzlichen Schutz der Bestandteile kosmetischer Zubereitungen vor schädlichen Oxidations- prozessen.In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with additional, effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for additional protection of cosmetic preparations themselves or for additional protection of the constituents of cosmetic preparations against harmful oxidation processes.
Unter kosmetischer Hautpflege ist in erster Linie zu verstehen, daß die natürliche Funktion der Haut als Barriere gegen Umwelteinflüsse (z. B. Schmutz, Chemikalien, Mikroorganismen) und gegen den Verlust von körpereigenen Stoffen (z. B. Wasser, natürliche Fette, Elektrolyte) gestärkt oder wiederhergestellt wird.Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood to mean that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
Wird diese Funktion gestört, kann es zu verstärkter Resorption toxischer oder aliergener Stoffe oder zum Befall von Mikroorganismen und als Folge zu toxischen oder allergi- sehen Hautreaktionen kommen.If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.
Ziel der Hautpflege ist es ferner, den durch tägliche Waschen verursachten Fett- und Wasserverlust der Haut auszugleichen. Dies ist gerade dann wichtig, wenn das natürliche Regenerationsvermögen nicht ausreicht. Außerdem sollen Hautpflegeprodukte vorThe aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are said to exist
T:\PAT- S\2001\201-051 Isoflavone gegen Hautalterung.doc Umwelteinflüssen, insbesondere vor Sonne und Wind, schützen und die Hautalterung verzögern.T: \ PAT- S \ 2001 \ 201-051 Isoflavone against skin aging.doc Protect environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and delay skin aging.
Die chronologische Hautalterung wird z. B. durch endogene, genetisch determinierte Faktoren verursacht. In Epidermis und Dermis kommt es alterungsbedingt z. B. zu folgenden Strukturschäden und Funktionsstörungen, die auch unter den Begriff „Senile Xerosis" fallen können:The chronological skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":
a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen, b) Juckreiz und c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z. B. nach Waschen).a) Dryness, roughness and the formation of wrinkles due to dryness, b) itching and c) reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).
Exogene Faktoren, wie UV-Licht und chemische Noxen, können kumulativ wirksam sein. In Epidermis und Dermis kommt es insbesondere durch exogene Faktoren z. B. zu fol- genden Strukturschäden- und Funktionsstörungen in der Haut:Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective. In the epidermis and dermis, it is caused in particular by exogenous factors, e.g. B. The following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin:
d) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit).d) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).
Produkte zur Pflege sensibler, juckender und/oder trockener Haut bzw. Produkte zur Behandlung von oder Prophylaxe vor DNS-Schädigungen sind an sich bekannt. Allerdings ist deren Wirksamkeit begrenzt.Products for the care of sensitive, itchy and / or dry skin or products for the treatment of or prophylaxis against DNA damage are known per se. However, their effectiveness is limited.
Die schädigende Wirkung des ultravioletten Teils der Sonnenstrahlung auf die Haut ist allgemein bekannt. Während Strahlen mit einer Wellenlänge, die kleiner als 290 nm ist (der sogenannte UVC-Bereich), von der Ozonschicht in der Erdatmosphäre absorbiert werden, verursachen Strahlen im Bereich zwischen 290 nm und 320 nm, dem sogenannten UVB-Bereich, ein Erythem, einen einfachen Sonnenbrand oder sogar mehr oder weniger starke Verbrennungen.The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
Als ein Maximum der Erythemwirksamkeit des Sonnenlichtes wird der engere Bereich um 308 nm angegeben.The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.
Zum Schutz gegen UVB-Strahlung sind zahlreiche Verbindungen bekannt, bei denen es sich um Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, der 4-Aminobenzoesäure, der Zimtsäure, der Salicylsäure, des Benzophenons sowie auch des 2-Phenylbenzimidazols handelt.Numerous compounds are known for protection against UVB radiation, which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, Salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.
Auch für den Bereich zwischen etwa 320 nm und etwa 400 nm, des sogenannten UVA- Bereich, ist es wichtig, Filtersubstanzen zur Verfügung zu haben, da dessen Strahlen Reaktionen bei lichtempfindlicher Haut hervorrufen können. Es ist erwiesen, daß UVA- Strahlung zu einer Schädigung der elastischen und kollagenen Fasern des Bindegewebes führt, was die Haut vorzeitig altern läßt, und daß sie als Ursache zahlreicher phototoxischer und photoallergischer Reaktionen zu sehen ist. Der schädigende Einfluß der UVB-Strahlung kann durch UVA-Strahlung verstärkt werden.It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is to be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.
Zum Schutz gegen die Strahlen des UVA-Bereichs werden daher gewisse Derivate des Dibenzoylmethans verwendet, deren Photostabilität (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)), nicht in ausreichendem Maße gegeben ist.To protect against the rays of the UVA range, certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are therefore used, the photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) of which is insufficient.
Die UV-Strahlung kann aber auch zu photochemischen Reaktionen führen, wobei dann die photochemischen Reaktionsprodukte in den Hautmetabolismus eingreifen.However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.
Vorwiegend handelt es sich bei solchen photochemischen Reaktionsprodukten um radikalische Verbindungen, beispielsweise Hydroxyradikale. Auch Undefinierte radikali- sehe Photoprodukte, welche in der Haut selbst entstehen, können aufgrund ihrer hohen Reaktivität unkontrollierte Folgereaktionen an den Tag legen. Aber auch Singulettsauer- stoff, ein nichtradikalischer angeregter Zustand des Sauerstoffmoleküls kann bei UV- Bestrahlung auftreten, ebenso kurzlebige Epoxide und viele andere. Singulettsauerstoff beispielsweise zeichnet sich gegenüber dem normalerweise vorliegenden Triplettsau- erstoff (radikalischer Grundzustand) durch gesteigerte Reaktivität aus. Allerdings existieren auch angeregte, reaktive (radikalische) Triplettzustände des Sauerstoffmoleküis.Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly free radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Undefined radical-free photo products that arise in the skin itself can also display uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.
Ferner zählt UV-Strahlung zur ionisierenden Strahlung. Es besteht also das Risiko, daß auch ionische Spezies bei UV-Exposition entstehen, welche dann ihrerseits oxidativ in die biochemischen Prozesse einzugreifen vermögen.UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV rays, which in turn can oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.
Um diesen Reaktionen vorzubeugen, können den kosmetischen bzw. dermatologischen Formulierungen zusätzliche Antioxidantien und/oder Radikalfänger einverleibt werden. Es ist bereits vorgeschlagen worden, Vitamin E, eine Substanz mit bekannter antioxidativer Wirkung in Lichtschutzformulierungen einzusetzen, dennoch bleibt auch hier die erzielte Wirkung weit hinter der erhofften zurück.In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations. It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative effect, in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.
Aufgabe der Erfindung war es daher, kosmetische, dermatologische und pharmazeutische Wirkstoffe und Zubereitungen sowie Lichtschutzformulierungen zu schaffen, die zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung lichtempfindlicher Haut, insbesondere von Photoder- matosen, bevorzugt der polymorphen Lichtdermatose dienen.The object of the invention was therefore to provide cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active substances and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably polymorphic light dermatosis.
Weitere Bezeichnungen für die polymorphe Lichtdermatose sind PLD, PLE, Mallorca- Akne und eine Vielzahl von weiteren Bezeichnungen, wie sie in der Literatur (z. B. A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Haut- und Geschlechtskrankheiten (1989), 156, S.2), angegeben sind.Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other names, such as those used in the literature (e.g. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Haut- und Sexually Diseases (1989), 156, p.2), are specified.
Hauptsächlich werden Antioxidantien als Schutzsubstanzen gegen den Verderb der sie enthaltenden Zubereitungen verwendet. Dennoch ist bekannt, daß auch in der menschlichen und tierischen Haut unerwünschte Oxidationsprozesse auftreten können.Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin.
Im Aufsatz "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Der- matology", S. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, Herausgeber: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, und Lester Packer, Berkeley/Californien), werden oxidative Schäden der Haut und ihre näheren Ursachen aufgeführt.In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), oxidative damage to the skin and its closer causes are listed.
Auch aus dem Grunde, solchen Reaktionen vorzubeugen, können kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierungen zusätzlich Antioxidantien und/oder Radikalfänger einverleibt werden.Also for the reason of preventing such reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
Zwar sind einige Antioxidantien und Radikalfänger bekannt. So ist bereits in den US-Patentschriften 4,144,325 und 4,248,861 sowie aus zahlreichen anderen Dokumenten vor- geschlagen worden, Vitamin E, eine Substanz mit bekannter antioxidativer Wirkung in Lichtschutzformulierungen einzusetzen, dennoch bleibt auch hier die erzielte Wirkung weit hinter der erhofften zurück.Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. For example, US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861, as well as numerous other documents, have proposed the use of vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant activity in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.
Weitere Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es daher, die Nachteile des Standes der Technik zu vermeiden und insbesondere die durch Umweltnoxen verursachten Schäden dauerhaft, nachhaltig und ohne das Risiko von Nebenwirkungen zu beheben bzw. ihnen vorzubeugen.Another object of the present invention was therefore to address the disadvantages of the prior art the technology and in particular to permanently or sustainably eliminate the damage caused by environmental noxious substances without the risk of side effects or to prevent them.
Es hat sich überraschenderweise herausgestellt, daß die Verwendung von Substanzen gewählt aus der Gruppe:It has surprisingly been found that the use of substances selected from the group:
Ipriflavon (7-lsopropoxy-lsoflavon), Formononetin (7-Hydroxy-4'-Methoxyiso- flavon), Ononin (Formononetin-7-O-ß-D-Glucopyranosid), 4'-lsopropy!-lsofla- von, Mono-hydroxy-lsoflavone, Mono-hydroxy-Dihydro-lsoflavone, Mono- hydroxy-Tetrahydro-lsoflavone, O-Desmethylangolensin, Dihydro-Daidzein (Di- hydro-7,4'-Dihydroxy-lsoflavon), Tetrahydro-Daidzein (Tetrahydro-7,4'-Di- hydroxy-lsoflavon), Dihydro-Genistein (Dihydro-5,7,4'-Trihydroxy-lsoflavon), 2- Dehydro-O-Desmethyl-Angolensin, Dehydroequol, 4-Hydroxy-7-Glucose- Isoflavon und 5-Hydroy-7,4'-Dimethoxy-lsoflavon in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung, Pflege undIpriflavone (7-isopropoxy-isoflavone), formononetin (7-hydroxy-4 '-Methoxyiso- flavone), ononin (formononetin-7-O-ß-D-glucopyranoside), 4' -lsopropy! -Lsofla- of, mono- hydroxy-isoflavones, mono-hydroxy-dihydro-isoflavones, mono-hydroxy-tetrahydro-isoflavones, O-desmethylangolensin, dihydro-daidzein (di-hydro-7,4 ' -dihydroxy-isoflavone), tetrahydro-daidzein (tetrahydro-7 4'-di-hydroxy-isoflavone), dihydro-genistein (dihydro-5,7,4 ' -trihydroxy-isoflavone), 2-dehydro-O-desmethyl-angolensin, dehydroequol, 4-hydroxy-7-glucose isoflavone and 5-hydroy-7,4 ' -dimethoxy-isoflavone in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for treatment, care and
Prophylaxe von sensibler Haut und/oder zur Behandlung und Prophylaxe der Symptome einer negativen Veränderung der physiologischen Homeostase der gesunden Haut, den Nachteilen das Standes der Technik abhilft.Prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, which alleviates the disadvantages of the prior art.
Bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 bis 1 Gew.-%, an Isoflavonen, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung der Zubereitungen.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, of isoflavones, based on the total composition of the preparations.
Bei Anwendung der erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoffe bzw. kosmetischer oder topischer dermatologischer Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoffen ist in überraschender Weise eine wirksame Behandlung, aber auch eine Prophylaxe vonWhen using the active ingredients used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredients used according to the invention is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of
• Veränderungen der normalen Lipidperoxidation, • defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zuständen von Hautanhangsgebilden, entzündlichen Hautzuständen,Changes in normal lipid peroxidation, deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages, inflammatory skin conditions,
• atopischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo empfindlicher, juckender oder gereizter Haut, • Veränderung des Ceramid-, Lipid- und Energiestoffwechsels der gesunden Haut,• atopic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo of sensitive, itchy or irritated skin, Change in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin,
• Veränderung des physiologischen transepidermalen Wasserverlustes,Change in the physiological transepidermal water loss,
• Verminderung der Hauthydratation und Abnahme des Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes der Haut, • Veränderung des Natural Moisturizing Factor Gehaltes,• reduction in skin hydration and decrease in the moisture content of the skin, • change in the natural moisturizing factor,
• Verminderung der Zell-Zell-Kommunikation,Reduction in cell-cell communication,
• Mangelerscheinungen der intrazellulären DNS-Synthese,Deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis,
• DNS-Schädigungen und Verminderung von endogenen DNS-Reparaturmechanismen, • Aktivierung von Metalloproteinasen und/oder anderer Proteasen bzw. Inhibierung der entsprechenden endogenen Inhibitoren dieser Enzyme,DNA damage and reduction of endogenous DNA repair mechanisms, activation of metalloproteinases and / or other proteases or inhibition of the corresponding endogenous inhibitors of these enzymes,
• Abweichungen von den normalen post-translationalen Modifikationen von Bindege- websbestandteilen,• deviations from the normal post-translational modifications of connective tissue components,
• Veränderungen des normalen Hyaluronsäure- und Glycosaminoglycangehaltes der gesunden Haut,Changes in the normal hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycan content of healthy skin,
• Schuppenbildung der Haare,Scaling of the hair,
• Hautbrüchigkeit und Hautermüdung,• fragility and fatigue of the skin,
• Erhöhung der normalen Keratinozytenproliferation,Increase in normal keratinocyte proliferation,
• Verminderung der natürlichen Regeneration und Struktur der Haare, • umweltbedingten (durch Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspezies, freie Radikale verursachten) negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde möglich.• Reduction of the natural regeneration and structure of the hair, • Environmentally-related (caused by smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) negative changes in the skin and the appendages of the skin possible.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß insbesondere äußerst vorteilhaft, den erfindungsgemäß ver- wendeten Wirkstoff bzw. kosmetische oder topische dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäß verwendetem Wirkstoff zur kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Behandlung oder Prophylaxe unerwünschter Hautzustände zu verwenden.It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.
Erfindungsgemäß können Zubereitungen, welche die erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombinationen enthalten, übliche Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden.According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z. B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z. B. Uro- caninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Camosin, D-Camosin, L-Camosin und deren Derivate (z. B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z. B. -Carotin, ß-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothio- glucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z. B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulf- oximinverbindungen (z. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsul- föne, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z. B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z. B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitin- säure, Phytinsäure, Lactofeπin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z. B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z. B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Alanindiessigsäure, Flavonoide, Po- lyphenole, Catechine, Vitamin C und Derivate (z. B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascor- bylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z. B. Vitamin-E-acetat), sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, Ferulasäure und deren Derivate, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO ) Selen und dessen Derivate (z. B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z. B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. uro- canic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-camosin, L-camosin and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, Ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, Lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lacto feπin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. B. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, Alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin, Rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO) selenium and its derivatives. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nu kleoside, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.
Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
Ferner kann es von Vorteil sein, die erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffe zu verkapseln, z. B. als sogenannte solid lipid nanoparts mit Hilfe von aufgeschmolzenen Wachsen, die unter anderem, aber nicht ausschließlich, gewählt sein können aus der Gruppe der Esterwachse, Triglyceridwachse oder Kohlenwasserstoffwachse. Weiterhin kann es von Vorteil sein die erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffe in Polymere zu verkapseln, z. B. in Partikel auf Basis hochvemetzter Polymethacrylate und/oder Cellulosetriacetate und/oder als Core/Shell-Partikel mit einer Hülle aus Poly(oxymethylurea), Nylon, Polyamide, Polyurethan, Polyester, Gelatine und Polyolefine.Furthermore, it may be advantageous to encapsulate the active compounds according to the invention, for. B. as a so-called solid lipid nanoparts with the help of melted waxes, which, among other things, but not exclusively, can be selected from the group of ester waxes, triglyceride waxes or hydrocarbon waxes. Furthermore, it can be from It is advantageous to encapsulate the active compounds according to the invention in polymers, for. B. in particles based on highly cross-linked polymethacrylates and / or cellulose triacetates and / or as core / shell particles with a shell made of poly (oxymethylurea), nylon, polyamides, polyurethane, polyester, gelatin and polyolefins.
Die Prophylaxe bzw. die kosmetische oder dermatologische Behandlung mit dem erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoff bzw. mit den kosmetischen oder topischen dermatologischen Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäß verwendetem Wirkstoff erfolgt in der üblichen Weise, und zwar dergestalt, daß der erfindungsge- maß verwendete Wirkstoff bzw. die kosmetischen oder topischen dermatologischen Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäß verwendetem Wirkstoff auf die betroffenen Hautstellen aufgetragen wird.The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention are applied to the affected skin areas.
Vorteilhaft kann der erfindungsgemäß verwendete Wirkstoff eingearbeitet werden in üb- liehe kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen, welche in verschiedenen Formen vorliegen können. So können sie z. B. eine Lösung, eine Emulsion vom Typ Was- ser-in-ÖI (W/O) oder vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser (O/W), oder eine multiple Emulsionen, beispielsweise vom Typ Wasser-in-ÖI-in-Wasser (W/O/W) oder Öl-in-Wasser-in-ÖI (O W/O), eine Hydrodispersion oder Lipodispersion, ein Gel, eine Pickering-Emulsion, einen festen Stift oder auch ein Aerosol darstellen.The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can z. B. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in -Water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (OW / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a Pickering emulsion, a solid stick or an aerosol.
Erfindungsgemäße Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, z. B. in Form einer Creme, einer Lotion, einer kosmetischen Milch sind vorteilhaft und enthalten z. B. Fette, Öle, Wachse und/oder andere Fettkörper, sowie Wasser und einen oder mehrere Emul- gatoren, wie sie üblicherweise für einen solchen Typ der Formulierung verwendet werden.Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for. B. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. B. fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.
Es ist auch möglich und vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoff in wäßrige Systeme bzw. Tensidzubereitungen zur Reinigung der Haut und der Haare einzufügen.It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.
Es ist dem Fachmann natürlich bekannt, daß anspruchsvolle kosmetische Zusammensetzungen zumeist nicht ohne die üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe denkbar sind. Darunter zählen beispielsweise Konsistenzgeber, Füllstoffe, Parfüm, Farbstoffe, Emulgato- ren, zusätzliche Wirkstoffe wie Vitamine oder Proteine, Lichtschutzmittel, Stabilisatoren, Insektenrepellentien, Alkohol, Wasser, Salze, antimikrobiell, proteolytisch oder keratoly- tisch wirksame Substanzen usw.It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers other active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances etc.
Mutatis mutandis gelten entsprechende Anforderungen an die Formulierung medizinischer Zubereitungen.Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.
Medizinische topische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medizinischer Anwendung und entsprechenden Produkten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z. B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz).Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics ordinance, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.
Es ist dabei ebenfalls von Vorteil, den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoff als Zusatzstoff zu Zubereitungen zu geben, die bereits andere Wirkstoffe für andere Zwecke enthalten.It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.
Entsprechend können kosmetische oder topische dermatologische Zusammensetzun- gen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, je nach ihrem Aufbau, beispielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcreme, Reinigungsmilch, Sonnenschutzlotion, Nährcreme, Tages- oder Nachtcreme usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden.Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis to use for pharmaceutical formulations.
Es ist auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden z. B. in Tagescremes oder Makeup-Produkten gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Fil- tersubstanzen eingearbeitet. Auch stellen UV-Schutzsubstanzen, ebenso wie Antioxidantien und, gewünschtenfalls, Konservierungsstoffe, einen wirksamen Schutz der Zubereitungen selbst gegen Verderb dar. Günstig sind femer kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen. Dementsprechend enthalten die Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorzugsweise neben einem oder mehreren erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoffen zusätzlich mindestens eine weitere UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Filtersubstanz. Die Formulierungen können, obgleich nicht notwendig, gegebenenfalls auch ein oder mehrere orga- nische und/oder anorganische Pigmente als UV-Filtersubstanzen enthalten, welche in der Wasser- und/oder der Ölphase vorliegen können.It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. So z. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Furthermore, cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are favorable. Accordingly, in the sense of the present invention, the preparations preferably contain, in addition to one or more active ingredients used according to the invention, at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The formulations can, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
Bevorzugte anorganische Pigmente sind Metalloxide und/oder andere in Wasser schwerlösliche oder unlösliche Metallverbindungen, insbesondere Oxide des Titans (TiO2), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z. B. Fe2O3), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siliciums (SiO2), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (Al203), Cers (z. B. Ce2θ3), Mischoxide der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden.Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 θ3), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
Solche Pigmente können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorteilhaft oberflächlich behandelt („gecoatet") sein, wobei beispielsweise ein amphiphiler oder hydrophober Charakter gebildet werden bzw. erhalten bleiben soll. Diese Oberflächenbehandlung kann darin bestehen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophoben Schicht versehen werden.For the purposes of the present invention, such pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or maintained be provided with a hydrophobic layer.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sind z. B. Titandioxidpigmente, die mit Octylsilanol beschichtet sind. Geeignete Titandioxidpartikel sind unter der Handelsbezeichnung T805 bei der Firma Degussa erhältlich. Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner mit Aluminiumstearat beschichtete TiO2-Pigmente, z. B. die unter der Handelsbezeichnung MT 100 T bei der Firma TAYCA erhältlichen.According to the invention, z. B. titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are TiO 2 pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.
Eine weitere vorteilhafte Beschichtung der anorganische Pigmente besteht aus Dime- thylpolysiloxan (auch: Dimethicon), einem Gemisch vollmethylierter, linearer Siloxanpoly- mere, die endständig mit Trimethylsiloxy-Einheiten blockiert sind. Besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Zinkoxid-Pigmente, die auf diese Weise be- schichtet werden.Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethyl polysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked at the end with trimethylsiloxy units. Zinc oxide pigments which are coated in this way are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft ist femer eine Beschichtung der anorganischen Pigmente mit einem Gemisch aus Dimethylpolysiloxan, insbesondere Dimethylpolysiloxan mit einer durchschnittlichen Kettenlänge von 200 bis 350 Dimethylsiloxan-Einheiten, und Silicagel, welches auch als Simethicone bezeichnet wird. Es ist insbesondere von Vorteil, wenn die anorganischen Pigmente zusätzlich mit Aluminiumhydroxid bzw. Aluminiumoxidhydrat (auch: Alumina, CAS-Nr.: 1333-84-2) beschichtet sind. Besonders vorteilhaft sind Titandioxide, die mit Simethicone und Alumina beschichtet sind, wobei die Beschichtung auch Wasser ent- halten kann. Ein Beispiel hierfür ist das unter dem Handelsnamen Eusolex T2000 bei der Firma Merck erhältliche Titandioxid.It is also advantageous to coat the inorganic pigments with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also known as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic pigments are additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2). Titanium dioxides which are coated with simethicone and alumina are particularly advantageous, the coating also being able to contain water. An example of this is the titanium dioxide available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex T2000.
Vorteilhaftes organisches Pigment im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist das 2,2'-Me- thylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 , 1 ,3,3-tetramethy!butyl)-phenol) [INCI: Bisoctyl- triazol], welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethyl! Butyl) - phenol) [INCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
Vorteilhaft enthalten erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen Substanzen, die UV-Strahlung im UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersub- stanzen z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1,0 bis 15,0 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutzmittel fürs Haar oder die Haut dienen.Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.
Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Dibenzoyl- methanderivate, insbesondere das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), welches von Givaudan unter der Marke Parsol® 1789 und von Merck unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex® 9020 verkauft wird.Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
Weitere vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind die Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)- 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimi- dazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazy- late, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist.Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts , in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimizazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann & Reimer.
Ferner vorteilhaft sind das 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das ent- sprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol- 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird.Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding speaking sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).
Vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner soge- nannte Breitbandfilter, d.h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbieren.Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
Vorteilhafte Breitbandfilter oder UV-B-Filtersubstanzen sind beispielsweise Bis-Resorci- nyltriazinderivate. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hy- droxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCl: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives. This is particularly preferred 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCl: Aniso Triazin), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die sich durch einen hohen bzw. sehr hohen UV-A-Schutz auszeichnen, enthalten bevorzugt mehrere UV-A- und/oder Breitbandfilter, insbesondere Dibenzoylmethanderivate [beispielsweise das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan], Benzotriazolderivate [beispielsweise das 2,2'-Methylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)- phenol)], Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und/oder ihre Salze, das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bomylidenmethyl)-Benzol und/oder dessen Salze und/oder das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyi-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)- 1,3,5-triazin, jeweils einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander.Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [e.g. 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)] , Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidene methyl ) -Benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3, 5-triazine, individually or in any combination with one another.
Auch andere UV-Filtersubstanzen, welche das StrukturmotivAlso other UV filter substances, which the structural motif
Figure imgf000013_0001
aufweisen, sind vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der voriiegenden Erfindung, beispielsweise die in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift EP 570 838 A1 beschriebenen s-Triazinderivate, deren chemische Struktur durch die generische Formel
Figure imgf000013_0001
have, are advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the previous invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, their chemical structure by the generic formula
Figure imgf000014_0001
wiedergegeben wird, wobei
Figure imgf000014_0001
is reproduced, whereby
R einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC,8-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cι2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C C4- Alkylgruppen, darstellt,R represents a branched or unbranched CrC, 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups,
X ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine NH-Gruppe darstellt, i einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrCis-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cι2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C C4- Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoff atom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der FormelX represents an oxygen atom or an NH group, i a branched or unbranched CrCis alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, one Ammonium group or a group of formula
Figure imgf000014_0002
bedeutet, in welcher
Figure imgf000014_0002
means in which
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC18-Alkylrest, einen Cs-Cι2-Cyclo- alkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren Cι-C - Alkylgruppen,A represents a branched or unbranched CrC 18 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 2 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups,
R3 ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt, n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt, R2 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC18-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cl2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren d-C4- Alkylgruppen, darstellt, wenn X die NH-Gruppe darstellt, und einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrCι8-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cι2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren Cι-C4- Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der FormelR 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10, R 2 represents a branched or unbranched CrC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched CrCι 8 -Alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
Figure imgf000015_0001
bedeutet, in welcher
Figure imgf000015_0001
means in which
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten Cι-C-ι8-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cι2-CycIo- alkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C C4- Alkylgruppen,A represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 8 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups,
R3 ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt, n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt, wenn X ein Sauerstoffatom darstellt.R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
Besonders bevorzugte UV-Filtersubstanz im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner ein unsymmetrisch substituiertes s-Triazin, dessen chemische Struktur durch die Formel A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
Figure imgf000016_0001
wiedergegeben wird, welches im Folgenden auch als Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCl: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) bezeichnet wird und unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVA- SORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist.
Figure imgf000016_0001
is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCl: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der voriiegenden Erfindung ist auch ein symmetrisch substituiertes s-Triazin, das 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexyl- ester), synonym: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1 ,3,5-triazin (INCl: Oetyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.A symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCl: Oetyl Triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
Auch in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift 775 698 werden bevorzugt einzusetzende Bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate beschrieben, deren chemische Struktur durch die gene- rische FormelEuropean laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are to be used with preference, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula
Figure imgf000016_0002
wiedergegeben wird, wobei Rt , R2 und Ai verschiedenste organische Reste repräsentieren.
Figure imgf000016_0002
is reproduced, wherein R t , R 2 and Ai represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-sulfonato)- 2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin Natriumsalz, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-Propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxy- phenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(2-meth- oxyethyl-carboxyl)-phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hy- droxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(2-ethyl-carboxyl)-phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl)-1 ,3,5-tri- azin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-tris(trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxy- phenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2"-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-me- thoxyρhenyl)-1,3,5-triazin und das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(1',1',r,3,,5',5, l5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2"- methyl-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin.Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} - 6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4- me- thoxyρhenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', r, 3,, 5 ', 5, 5'-Heptamethylsiloxy l-2 "- methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.
Ein vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist das 2,2'-Methy- len-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
Vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner das 2-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]di- siloxanyl]propyl]-phenol (CAS-Nr.: 155633-54-8) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Drometrizole Trisiloxane.Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
Die UV-B- und/oder Breitband-Filter können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Vorteilhafte öllösliche UV-B- und/oder Breitband-Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
■ 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
■ 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
■ 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
■ Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethyl- hexyl)ester; ■ Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Meth- oxyzimtsäureisopentylester;■ esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester; ■ esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
■ Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon ■ sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone ■ and UV filters bound to polymers.
Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UV-B- und/oder Breitband-Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
■ Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Tri- ethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst; ■ Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bomyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.■ salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself; ■ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Eine weiterere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende Lichtschutzfiltersubstanz ist das Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octoerylen), welches von BASF unter der Bezeichnung Uvinul® N 539 erhältlich ist.A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (Octoerylen) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th
Es kann auch von erheblichem Vorteil sein, polymergebundene oder polymere UV-Filtersubstanzen in Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, insbe- sondere solche, wie sie in der WO-A-92/20690 beschrieben werden.It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.
Ferner kann es gegebenenfalls von Vorteil sein, erfindungsgemäß weitere UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Filter in kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen einzuarbeiten, beispielsweise bestimmte Salicylsäurederivate wie 4-lsopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2- Ethylhexylsalicylat (= Octylsalicylat), Homomenthylsalicylat.It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to incorporate further UV-A and / or UV-B filters into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.
Die Liste der genannten UV-Filter, die im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
Vorteilhaft enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen die Substanzen, die UV- Strahlung im UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Bereich absorbieren, in einer Gesamtmenge von z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 15,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmeti- sehe Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutzmittel fürs Haar oder die Haut dienen.The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetics - see preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Wirk-, Hilfs- und/oder Zusatzstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Antioxidationsmittel, Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elek- trolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Sofern die kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eine Lösung oder Emulsion oder Dispersion darstellt, können als Lösungsmittel verwendet werden:If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:
• Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen• Water or aqueous solutions
• Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizi- nusöl;• oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
• Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propy- lenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C- Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren; • Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propyleπglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmono- ethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -mono- butylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products.
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet. Bei alkoholischen Lösungsmitteln kann Wasser ein weiterer Bestandteil sein.Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.
Die Ölphase der Emulsionen, Oleogele bzw. Hydrodispersionen oder Lipodispersionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancar- bonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C- Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n- Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononyliso- nonanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecyl- palmitat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z. B. Jojobaöl.The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions For the purposes of the present invention, the group of esters is advantageously chosen from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl palate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Silkonöle, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können bei- spielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z. B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöi und dergleichen mehr.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der voriiegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpalmitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der Ölphase einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
Vorteilhaft wird die Ölphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldo- decanol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeieosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, Cι2-ιs-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether.The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeieosan, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2- 2- alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus C12-ιs-Alkybenzoat und 2-Ethylhexylisostea- rat, Mischungen aus Cι2.ι5-Alkybenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus Cι2.i5-Alkybenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat.Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12- ιs benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea- rat, mixtures of Cι 2 .ι 5 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures from Cι 2 .i5-alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölpha- senkomponenten zu verwenden.The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Vorteilhaft wird Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendendes Silikonöl eingesetzt. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan).Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisononanoat, aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
Die wäßrige Phase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthält gegebenenfalls vor- teilhaft Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder - onoethylether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-Propandiol, Glycerin sowie insbe- sondere ein oder mehrere Verdiekungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z. B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyaerylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole, beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination.The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols with a low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- or - onoethylether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyaerylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
Erfindungsgemäß verwendete Gele enthalten üblicherweise Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-Propandiol, Glycerin und Wasser bzw. ein vorstehend genanntes Öl in Gegenwart eines Verdickungsmittels, das bei ölig-alkoholischen Gelen vorzugsweise Siliciumdioxid oder ein Aluminiumsilikat, bei wäßrig-alkoholischen oder alkoholischen Gelen vorzugweise ein Polyacrylat ist.Gels used according to the invention usually contain low C-number alcohols, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener, which is used in oily alcoholic gels preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
Feste Stifte enthalten z. B. natürliche oder synthetische Wachse, Fettalkohole oder Fettsäureester.Fixed pens contain e.g. B. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters.
Übliche Grundstoffe, welche für die Verwendung als kosmetische Stifte im Sinne der voriiegenden Erfindung geeignet sind, sind flüssige Öle (z. B. Paraffinöle, Ricinusöl, Iso- propylmyristat), halbfeste Bestandteile (z. B. Vaseline, Lanolin), feste Bestandteile (z. B. Bienenwachs, Ceresin und Mikrokristalline Wachse bzw. Ozokerit) sowie hochschmelzende Wachse (z. B. Camaubawachs, Candelillawachs)Common basic materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present invention are liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components ( e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (e.g. camauba wax, candelilla wax)
Als Treibmittel für aus Aerosolbehältern versprühbare kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die üblichen bekann- ten leichtflüchtigen, verflüssigten Treibmittel, beispielsweise Kohlenwasserstoffe (Pro- pan, Butan, Isobutan) geeignet, die allein oder in Mischung miteinander eingesetzt werden können. Auch Druckluft ist vorteilhaft zu verwenden.Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations sprayable from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another , Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
Natürlich weiß der Fachmann, daß es an sich nichttoxische Treibgase gibt, die grund- sätzlich für die Verwirklichung der vorliegenden Erfindung in Form von Aerosolpräparaten geeignet wären, auf die aber dennoch wegen bedenklicher Wirkung auf die Umwelt oder sonstiger Begleitumstände verzichtet werden sollte, insbesondere Fluorkohlenwasserstoffe und Fluorchlorkohlenwasserstoffe (FCKW).Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with because of their harmful effects on the environment or other accompanying circumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).
Kosmetische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können auch als Gele vorliegen, die neben einem wirksamen Gehalt am erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoff und dafür üblicherweise verwendeten Lösungsmitteln, bevorzugt Wasser, noch organische Verdiekungsmittel, z. B. Gummiarabikum, Xanthangummi, Natriumalginat, Cellulose-De- rivate, vorzugsweise Methylcellulose, Hydroxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose oder anorganische Verdiekungsmittel, z. B. Aluminiumsilikate wie beispielsweise Bentonite, oder ein Gemisch aus Poly- ethylenglykol und Polyethylenglykolstearat oder -distearat, enthalten. Das Verdiekungsmittel ist in dem Gel z. B. in einer Menge zwischen 0,1 und 30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zwischen 0,5 und 15 Gew.-%, enthalten. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen weitere Wirkstoffe enthalten, insbesondere natürliche Wirkstoffe und/oder deren Derivate, wie z. B. alpha- Liponsäure, Phytoen, D-Biotin, Coenzym Q10, alpha Glucosylrutin, Carnitin, Carnosin, Osmolyte, Klee-Extrakt, Hopfen- bzw. Hopfen-Malz-Extrakt.Cosmetic preparations within the meaning of the present invention can also be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferably water, or organic thickeners, for. B. gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, eg. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel e.g. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%. It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain further active substances, in particular natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as, for example, B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, osmolytes, clover extract, hop or hop malt extract.
Der Gehalt dieser Wirkstoffe (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,0001 bis 30 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zube- reitungen.The content of these active ingredients (one or more compounds) is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.0001 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, wobei unter „Isoflavone" hier im Speziellen eine oder mehrere der folgenden Substanzen zu verstehen ist: Ipriflavon (7-lsopropoxy-lsoflavon), Formononetin (7-Hydroxy-4'-Methoxyisoflavon), Ononin (Formononetin-7-O-ß-D-Glucopyranosid), 4'-lsopropyl-lsoflavon, Mono-hydroxy- Isoflavone, Mono-hydroxy-Dihydro-lsoflavone, Mono-hydroxy-Tetrahydro-lsoflavone, O- Desmethylangolensin, Dihydro-Daidzein (Dihydro-7,4'-Dihydroxy-lsoflavon), Tetrahydro- Daidzein (Tetrahydro-7,4'-Dihydroxy-lsoflavon), Dihydro-Genistein (Dihydro-5,7,4'-Tri- hydroxy-lsoflavon), 2-Dehydro-O-Desmethyl-Angolensin, Dehydroequol, 4-Hydroxy-7- Glucose-Isoflavon und 5-Hydroy-7,4'-Dimethoxy-lsoflavon The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, it being understood by "isoflavones" here in particular one or more of the following substances: ipriflavone (7-isopropoxy-isoflavone), formononetin (7-hydroxy-4 '-Methoxyisoflavon) ononin ( formononetin-7-O-ß-D-glucopyranoside), 4 '-lsopropyl isoflavone, mono-hydroxy-isoflavones, mono-hydroxy-dihydro-isoflavones, mono-hydroxy-tetrahydro-isoflavones, O- desmethylangolensin, dihydro-daidzein ( dihydro-7,4 '-dihydroxy isoflavone), tetrahydro-daidzein (tetrahydro-7,4' -dihydroxy isoflavone), genistein dihydro-(dihydro-5,7,4 '-tri- hydroxy isoflavone), 2- dehydro-O-desmethyl-Angolensin, dehydroequol, 4-hydroxy-7- glucose isoflavone and 5-Hydroy-7,4 'dimethoxy-isoflavone
Beispiele:Examples:
7. Beispiele O/W Cremes7. Examples of O / W creams
Figure imgf000024_0001
Figure imgf000025_0001
2. Beispiele W/O Emulsionen
Figure imgf000024_0001
Figure imgf000025_0001
2. Examples of W / O emulsions
Figure imgf000026_0001
Figure imgf000027_0001
Figure imgf000026_0001
Figure imgf000027_0001
Figure imgf000028_0001
Figure imgf000028_0001
3. Beispiele Hydrodispersionen3. Examples of hydrodispersions
Figure imgf000029_0001
Figure imgf000030_0001
Figure imgf000029_0001
Figure imgf000030_0001
4. Beispiel (Gelcreme):4. Example (gel cream):
Massengehalt (%)Mass content (%)
Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0,40Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates 0.40
CrosspolymerCrosspolymer
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Xanthan Gum 0,10Xanthan gum 0.10
Cetearyl Alkohol 3,00Cetearyl alcohol 3.00
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4,00C 1 2-15 alkyl benzoates 4.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3,00Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.00
Cyclometicone 5,00Cyclometicone 5.00
Dimeticone 1,00Dimeticone 1.00
Isoflavonoide 0,20Isoflavonoids 0.20
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Natriumhydroxid q.s.Sodium hydroxide q.s.
Konservierung q.s.Conservation q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demineralisiert ad 100,0 pH-Wert eingestellt auf 6,0Water demineralized to 100.0 pH adjusted to 6.0
Beispiel (W/O-Creme )Example (W / O cream)
Lameform TGI 3,50Lameform TGI 3.50
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Dehymuls PGPH 3,50 Isoflavonoide 0,50Dehymuls PGPH 3.50 isoflavonoids 0.50
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Magnesiumsulfat 0,6Magnesium sulfate 0.6
Isopropyl Stearate 2,0 Caprylyl Ether 8,0Isopropyl stearate 2.0 caprylyl ether 8.0
Cetearyl Isononanoate 6,0Cetearyl isononanoate 6.0
Wasser, demin. ad 100,0 Beispiel (W/O/W-Creme):Water, demin. ad 100.0 Example (W / O / W cream):
Massengehalt (%) Glyceryl Stearate 3,00Mass content (%) glyceryl stearate 3.00
PEG-100 Stearate 0,75PEG-100 stearate 0.75
Behenylalkohol 2,00Behenyl alcohol 2.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 8,0Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 8.0
Octyldodecanol • 5,00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3,00Octyldodecanol • 5.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3.00
Isoflavonoide 1,00Isoflavonoids 1.00
Magnesium Sulfat (MgSO4) 0,80Magnesium sulfate (MgSO 4 ) 0.80
EDTA 0,10EDTA 0.10
Konservierung q.s. Parfüm q.s.Conservation q.s. Perfume q.s.
Wasser.demineralisiert ad 100,0 pH-Wert eingestellt auf 6,0 Water demineralized from 100.0 pH adjusted to 6.0

Claims

Patentansprüche: claims:
1. Verwendung von Substanzen gewählt aus der Gruppe:1. Use of substances selected from the group:
Ipriflavon (7-lsopropoxy-lsoflavon), Formononetin (7-Hydroxy-4'-Methoxy- isoflavon), Ononin (Formononetin-7-O-ß-D-Glucopyranosid), 4'-lsopropyl- Isoflavon, Mono-hydroxy-lsoflavone, Mono-hydroxy-Dihydro-lsoflavone, Mono-hydroxy-Tetrahydro-lsoflavone, O-Desmethylangolensin, Dihydro- Daidzein (Dihydro-7,4'-Dihydroxy-lsoflavon), Tetrahydro-Daidzein (Tetra- hydro-7,4'-Dihydroxy-lsoflavon), Dihydro-Genistein (Dihydro-5,7,4'-Tri- hydroxy-lsoflavon), 2-Dehydro-O-Desmethyl-Angolensin, Dehydroequol, 4- Hydroxy-7-Glucose-lsoflavon und 5-Hydroy-7,4'-Dimethoxy-lsoflavon in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung, Pflege und Prophylaxe von sensibler Haut und/oder zur Behandlung und Prophylaxe der Symptome einer negativen Veränderung der physiologischen Homeostase der gesunden Haut.Ipriflavone (7-isopropoxy-isoflavone), formononetin (7-hydroxy-4'-methoxy-isoflavone), ononine (formononetin-7-O-β-D-glucopyranoside), 4'-isopropyl isoflavone, mono-hydroxy-isoflavones , Mono-hydroxy-dihydro-isoflavones, mono-hydroxy-tetrahydro-isoflavones, O-desmethylangolensin, dihydro-daidzein (dihydro-7,4 ' -dihydroxy-isoflavone), tetrahydro-daidzein (tetra-hydro-7,4 ' - Dihydroxy-isoflavone), dihydro-genistein (dihydro-5,7,4'-tri-hydroxy-isoflavone), 2-dehydro-O-desmethyl-angolensin, dehydroequol, 4-hydroxy-7-glucose-isoflavone and 5-hydroy -7,4'-Dimethoxy-isoflavone in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.
2. Verwendung nach Anspruch 1, wobei die Hautschäden und/oder negativen Hautzustände ein oder mehrere Erscheinungsbilder aus der folgenden Gruppe darstellen:2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the skin damage and / or negative skin conditions represent one or more appearances from the following group:
Veränderungen der normalen Lipidperoxidation, • defizitäre, sensitive oder hypoaktive Hautzustände oder defizitäre, sensitive oder hypoaktive Zustände von Hautanhangsgebilden, entzündliche Hautzuständen, atopisches Ekzem, polymorphe Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo, empfindliche, juckende oder gereizte Haut, • Veränderung des Ceramid-, Lipid- und Energiestoffwechsels der gesundenChanges in normal lipid peroxidation, • deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages, inflammatory skin conditions, atopic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, sensitive, itchy or irritated skin, • changes in the ceramide skin, and energy metabolism of the healthy
Haut,Skin,
Veränderung des physiologischen transepidermalen Wasserverlustes,Change in physiological transepidermal water loss,
Verminderung der Hauthydratation und Abnahme des Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes der Haut, • Veränderung des Natural Moisturizing Factor Gehaltes,Reduction in skin hydration and decrease in the moisture content of the skin, • change in the natural moisturizing factor,
Verminderung der Zell-Zell-Kommunikation,Reduction in cell-cell communication,
Mangelerscheinungen der intrazellulären DNS-Synthese,Deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis,
DNS-Schädigungen und Verminderung von endogenen DNS-Reparaturmecha- nismen,DNA damage and reduction of endogenous DNA repair mechanisms mechanisms,
• Aktivierung von Metalloproteinasen und/oder anderer Proteasen bzw. Inhibierung der entsprechenden endogenen Inhibitoren dieser Enzyme,Activation of metalloproteinases and / or other proteases or inhibition of the corresponding endogenous inhibitors of these enzymes,
• Abweichungen von den normalen post-translationalen Modifikationen von Bin- degewebsbestandteilen,• deviations from the normal post-translational modifications of connective tissue components,
• Veränderungen des normalen Hyaluronsäure- und Glycosaminoglycangehaltes der gesunden Haut,Changes in the normal hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycan content of healthy skin,
• Schuppenbildung der Haare,Scaling of the hair,
• Hautbrüchigkeit und Hautermüdung, • Erhöhung der normalen Keratinozytenproliferation,• skin fragility and skin fatigue, • increase in normal keratinocyte proliferation,
• Verminderung der natürlichen Regeneration der Haare,Reduction of the natural regeneration of the hair,
• umweltbedingte (durch Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspezies, freie Radikale oder dergleichen verursachte) negative Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.• Environmental (caused by smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals or the like) negative changes in the skin and the appendages.
3. Verwendung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gehalt an Iso- flavonen (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen aus dem Bereich von 0,0005 bis 50,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,01 bis 20,0 Gew.-%, gewählt wird, jeweils bezogen auf das Ge- samtgewicht der Zusammensetzung.3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of isoflavones (one or more compounds) in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations is in the range from 0.0005 to 50.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 up to 20.0% by weight is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
4. Verwendung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gehalt an Iso- flavonen (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen aus dem Bereich von 0,02 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,02 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, besonders vorteilhaft von 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, gewählt wird, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung.4. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of isoflavones (one or more compounds) in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations from the range of 0.02 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 up to 5.0% by weight, particularly advantageously from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
5. Verwendung nach Anspruch 1, wobei die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen sich durch einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an einem oder mehreren der fol- genden natürlichen Wirkstoffe und/oder deren Derivaten auszeichnen: alpha-Lipon- säure, Phytoen, D-Biotin, Coenzym Q10, alpha Glucosylrutin, Carnitin, Carnosin, Osmolyte, Klee-Extrakt, Hopfen- bzw. Hopfen-Malz-Extrakt. 5. Use according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic or dermatological preparations are characterized by an additional content of one or more of the following natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives: alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, osmolytes, clover extract, hop or hop malt extract.
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US8580846B2 (en) 2002-10-29 2013-11-12 Brigham Young University Use of equol for ameliorating or preventing neuropsychiatric and neurodegenerative diseases or disorders
US9089547B2 (en) 2002-10-29 2015-07-28 Brigham Young University Use of equol for treating androgen mediated diseases
US8153684B2 (en) 2002-10-29 2012-04-10 Colorado State University Research Foundation Use of equol for treating androgen mediated diseases
US9889116B2 (en) 2002-10-29 2018-02-13 Bringham Young University Use of equol for treating androgen mediated diseases
US10111855B2 (en) 2002-10-29 2018-10-30 Brigham Young University Use of equol for treating androgen mediated diseases
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CN108261376B (en) * 2018-03-06 2021-01-12 上海科颜生物科技有限公司 Three-dimensional moisturizing factor
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