"TRICHOGENETIC LOTION IN A BIPHASIC SYSTEM" The present invention relates to hair lotions and in particular a lotion comprising two liquid immiscible phases.
The two-phase or biphasic lotions are application systems of products having topical or transcutaneous action, that use two (or more) reciprocally immiscible solvents which, after suitable manual or mechanical agitation, are applied on the skin for various cosmetic or therapeutic purposes.
Usual hair and scalp lotions are generally formed by hydro-alcoholic solutions comprising one or more active components, wherein the alcohol percentage may attain 50% by volume. As not always the provided components are soluble in water or alcohol, also biphasic lotions were produced that comprise an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic phase and an oily phase formed by natural oils, and optionally surfactant agents to enhance the emulsifying effect. For topical application on the skin or hair, both solutions either separately packaged or co- existing in a single vessel are to be stirred together in order to obtain a temporary emulsion-suspension to be massaged where required. While for the application on free skin these biphasic lotions may find a valid use, their application on hair was never successful as a consequence of their creamy or milky nature which, by remaining on the hair, would make it rough, sticky and opaque because of greasy residues. The possible presence of emulsifying or surfactant agents would be otherwise harmful since the equilibrium of the natural hydrolipidic film that physiologically protects the skin and in particular the scalp would be altered or damaged.
The present invention aims therefore at preventing said troubles by providing a biphasic lotion in a single package with self-separating components, which has not only aesthetic but also functional advantages that allow to provide the hair follicles with active principles otherwise not usable for the hair.
It has now been set a biphasic system formed by polar and non polar solvents which when applied on hair does not render it greasy, but on the contrary conditions it by leaving the hair soft, bright and above all free of residues that can jeopardize its beauty. The novel biphasic lotion according to the invention brings
actually to the hair all possible active substances in solution whichever is their solubility. Such substances can therefore fully express their efficacy without undesired side effects appearing due to the composition.
The two constituting phases (polar and non polar) are reciprocally dispersed by stiπing at the time of use, and, once applied to scalp and hair, are able to carry whichever polar or non polar principle that can prove to be active and beneficial to the hair. After mixing, the part of lotion not used becomes to be sooner or later again separated into the two immiscible phases which are thus split up again
When the biphasic lotion according to the present invention is massaged on the scalp merely in a dispersed state (and not as a stable emulsion), it is naturally incorporated by dermal sebum forming the hydrolipidic film that has in itself physiologically and delicately emulsifying properties, whereby the active principles may more deeply contact the skin and thus act more efficiently without jeopardizing the dermocompatibility of the preparation. The mixture of lipotropic solvents evaporates in short leaving the active principles in close contact with the skin and hair and thereby available without loading and greasing the hair that will on the contrary take remarkable functional and aesthetic advantages.
In the current hair lotions, both aqueous and hydroalcoholic, the liposoluble active principles, namely the essential oils, are often insoluble or not fully soluble, being thus at least partially removed during the filtration and largely losing the trichotropic activity of the extracts. In the case of trichoactive plant extracts the activity is in fact to be often ascribed to both hydrosoluble (i.e. soluble in polar solvents) and liposoluble (soluble in non polar solvents) principles. It is for example the case of rosemary extracts, in which a hydrosoluble share and an only liposoluble share exist, the last being regarded as the most interesting one for the activity on hair.
Now in the biphasic system according to the present invention the hydrosoluble portion dissolves in the aqueous phase whereas all of the liposoluble portion dissolves in the apolar phase thus maintaining combined the properties of the various constituents which can therefore bring about a synergetic action.
It will now be given a non-limiting example of a biphasic preparation according to the invention.
EXAMPLE - a) Preparation of the aqueous phase
In a stainless steel mixer provided with vanes and cooling jacket, in a suitable amount of demineralised water, the following components are dissolved at 40°C:
Hop dry extract kg 0.5 Gingko biloba dry extract do Radish dry extract do Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate do
Sodium EDTA do Beta-carotene 0.15 Diazolidinylurea 1.0 Under continuous vigorous stirring are then added: A mixture of sulfomucopolysaccharides kg 7.5
Panthenol 5.0 Magnesium sulfate 1.0 Biotin 0.015 When all the components are dissolved there are added: Trichogenic auxin (a hydro-alcoholic mixture of plant extracts) kg 75
Thiolysin " 5.0
Finally the resulting solution is filtered with filter press and the pH is set to 5,5 by possibly adjusting it with lactic or citric acid. b) Preparation of the non polar phase
In the above cited mixer, now provided with a heating jacket, there are introduced 95 kilograms of dioctyl-cyclohexane that is heated to 45-50°C by adding 7 kilograms of pasty azulene. The mixing is continued at the same temperature and there are added: Melaleuca oil (Niaouli oil) kg 1.5
Tocopheryl acetate " 5.0
Soy phytosterols " 5.0
Oily cyclosiloxane " 150
Vitamin A palmitate " 0.5
Mirasil HMS™ q.s. to 500 The mixture is then filtered and adjusted to pH 5.5 possibly with KOH.
The two phases packed in a common vessel are then mixed by stirring at the time of use and the temporary emulsion thus obtained is applied by hands on the hair up to total evaporation of the volatile solvents.
Though a particular embodiment of the present invention was described, possible changes and/or additions can be mtroduced by those skilled in the art without thereby departing from the innovatory idea hereof. It will thus be possible, for instance, to differently color both phases in order to obtain a nice aesthetic effect.