WO1996006544A1 - Composition permettant de defriser et d'onduler de maniere permanente des matieres a base de keratine - Google Patents

Composition permettant de defriser et d'onduler de maniere permanente des matieres a base de keratine Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1996006544A1
WO1996006544A1 PCT/US1995/011069 US9511069W WO9606544A1 WO 1996006544 A1 WO1996006544 A1 WO 1996006544A1 US 9511069 W US9511069 W US 9511069W WO 9606544 A1 WO9606544 A1 WO 9606544A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
hair
swelling agent
weight
based materials
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US1995/011069
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Raphael M. Ottenbrite
Natasha Fadeeva
Original Assignee
Virginia Commonwealth University
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US08/296,932 external-priority patent/US5562110A/en
Application filed by Virginia Commonwealth University filed Critical Virginia Commonwealth University
Priority to AU35002/95A priority Critical patent/AU3500295A/en
Publication of WO1996006544A1 publication Critical patent/WO1996006544A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a composition for straightening or permanently waving keratin based materials.
  • this invention relates to a composition for safely and effectively straightening or permanently waving hair without causing damage to the hair or leaving unwanted substances in the hair.
  • this invention relates to a composition for safely and effectively straightening or permanently waving difficult to process hair such as virgin ( e., chemically unaltered) African-American, Asian, Mediterranean, or Latin hair.
  • Hair is mainly composed of densely cross-linked keratin protein with a number of disulfide bonds from amino acid cystine residues. Apart from these keratin covale ⁇ t disulfide bonds, hair has secondary bonds which strengthen the hair and provides hair with resistance to physical change. These secondary bonds include hydrogen bonding between carbonyl groups and amide groups of protein peptide bonds, amino and alcoh groups, and ionic attractions between carboxylic acid groups and ammonium groups of amino acid side chains.
  • the disulfide bonds have t be rearranged.
  • the first step for permanently changing hair involves chemical treatments for reducing the covalent disulfide bonds.
  • the hair configuration is being changed by applying mechanical strain.
  • the last step of the process is the restoration of the disulfide bonds.
  • the chemically processed hair is able to sustain the new configuration for a prolonged period of time. However, it is gradua replaced with newly grown hair with the natural configuration, and repeated treatment are required to maintain the cosmetic effect
  • compositions for straightemng or permanently waving hair utilize ha hydroxide chemicals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, and lithium hydroxides.
  • ha hydroxide chemicals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, and lithium hydroxides.
  • the highly alkaline nature of these compositions which typically have a pH ranging betwee 12 and 14, causes hair swelling and disruption of the disulfide bonds between the kerat molecules resulting in a permanent change in the hair structure.
  • the high p of the products causes partial dissolution of the intracellular matrix in the hair cuticle rendering the hair brittle and fragile and can further result in some hydrolysis of the polypeptide chains in the hair protein. Prolonged exposure of hair to strong alkali solutions weakens and can eventually severely damage the hair.
  • U.S. Patents 2,351,718 and 2,410,248 disclose treating keratin containing substances, such as hair, with formulations comprised of sulfites and bisulfites in order to impart a permanent set to the hair.
  • the hair is treated with the formulations containing the sulfites and bisulfites at temperatures ranging from 50°C to 70°C.
  • the patents disclose that the elevated temperatures are required to enhance the reducing activity of the sulfites or bisulfites and to ensure a process with a reducing rate which has commercial utility.
  • the elevated temperatures which are required by the treating processes disclosed in these patents may result in damage to the hair and the scalp.
  • U.S. Patent 3,583,408 discloses a method for straightening or permanently waving hair using a composition containing a reducing agent, such as sodium bisulfite, a swelling agent, such as urea, and a polymerizable vinyl monomer.
  • a reducing agent such as sodium bisulfite
  • a swelling agent such as urea
  • a polymerizable vinyl monomer The reducing agent reduces the disulfide bonds between the keratin molecules of the hair and the swelling agent enhances the penetration of the composition into the hair.
  • the function of the vinyl monomer is that once inside the hair, the vinyl monomer undergoes addition-type polymerization to provide a long polymer chain which remains in the hair to provide strength to the hair.
  • U.S. Patent 4,659,566 discloses a composition for straightening or waving hair.
  • the composition is comprised of a regenerable reducing agent, such as iodides, ferrocynanides, bromides, and antimony compounds, and a consumable reducing agent, such as sulfites and thioglycolates, for reducing the disulfide bonds.
  • the paten does not address the problems associated with straightening difficult to process hair suc as virgin African-American, Asian, Mediterranean, or Latin hair. Further, the composition disclosed in the patent does not satisfactorily straighten virgin African- American, Asian, Mediterranean, or Latin hair. It is desirable to have a composition which safely and effectively straightens or permanently waves hair and which causes ⁇ iinimal or no damage to the hair. It is particularly desirable to have a composition which safely and effectively straightens or permanently waves difficult to process hair such as virgin African-American, Asian, Mediterranean, or Latin hair.
  • a compositio for safely and effectively straightening or permanently waving hair which causes minima or no significant damage to the hair.
  • a composition which safely and effectively straightens or permanently waves difficult to process hair such as virgin African-American, Asian, Mediterranean, or Latin hair.
  • a composition for straightening or permanently waving hair which is effective when applied to hair under mild temperatures or pH conditions.
  • composition which safely and effectively straightens or permanently waves hair wherein the composition may be used on hair which has previously been treated to straighten or permanently wave the hair.
  • compositions for straightening or permanently waving keratin based materials comprising a reducing agent for reducing disulfide bonds between keratin molecules, an auxiliary reducing agent, a swelling agent for swelling the keratin based material, and a pH modifying and secondary swelling agent, wherein the reducing agents, the swelling agent, and the pH buffering and secondary swelling agent are present in sufficient quantities to alter the keratin based material.
  • a method for straightening or permanently waving keratin based materials comprising: exposing the keratin based materials to a composition comprising a reducing agent for reducing disulfide bonds between keratin molecules, an auxiliary reducing agent, a swelling agent for swelling the keratin based material, and a pH modifying and secondary swelling agent, wherein the reducing agents, the swelling agen and the pH buffering and secondary swelling agent are present in sufficient quantities t alter the keratin based material; keeping the composition on the keratin based materials for a time interv sufficient to straighten or permanently wave the hair; warming the composition to a temperature ranging from about 30°C to about 50°C; apply mechanical tension to the keratin based materials; and rinsing the composition from the keratin based materials after the time interval.
  • FIGS. 1A-1B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with one embodimen of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIGS. 2A-2B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with a second embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIGS. 3A-3B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with a third embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIGS. 4A-4B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with a fourth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIGS. 5A-5B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with a prior art composition for straightening hair.
  • FIGS. 6A-6B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with a fifth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 7 is a graph illustrating the redox potential of the fifth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention for straightening hair as compared to a prior art composition.
  • FIGS. 8A-8C are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and samples of the same donor hair which have been treated with a prior art composition for straightemng hair.
  • FIG. 9 is a graph illustrating the buffering properties of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and samples of the same donor hair which have been treated with a prior art composition.
  • FIGS. 10A-10C are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and samples of the same donor hair which have been treated with a fifth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIGS. 11A-11C are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-America hair, a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with a prior art composition, and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with a prior art composition and subsequently treated with the fifth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention,
  • FIG. 12 is a graph illustrating the buffering properties of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with a prior art composition and with the fifth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIGS. 13A-13B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin Caucasian brown hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with the fifth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIGS. 14A-14F are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and samples of the same donor hair which have been treated with the fifth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 15 is a graph illustrating the buffering properties of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and samples of the same donor hair which have been successively treated with the fifth embodiment of a composition according to the present invention.
  • the present invention is directed to a composition for safely and effectively straightening or permanently waving keratin based material, such as hair.
  • the invention is particularly directed to straightening or permanently waving difficult to process hair such as African-American, Asian, Mediterranean, or Latin hair.
  • the composition is comprised of a reducing agent for reducing disulfide bonds between keratin molecules, an auxiliary reducing agent, a swelling agent for swelling the keratin based material, and a pH modifying and secondary swelling agent.
  • the reducing agents, the swelling agent, and the pH buffering and secondary swelling agent taken separately or in combinations of two or three of these four components, do not produce the most effective straightening or waving effects to the hair.
  • the composition In order to safely and most effectively straighten or permanently wave hair, the composition must be comprised of all four components.
  • the exact amounts of the reducing agents, swelling agent, and the pH buffering and secondary swelling agent present in the composition will vary depending on how the composition is to be used. If the composition is to be used to treat Caucasian hair or similar types of hair which are easier to process, the amount of the components present in the composition will be lower than for difficult to process hair such as African- American hair.
  • the reducing agent functions to reduce the disulfide bonds between the keratin molecules in the hair in order to alter the configuration of the hair.
  • the reducing agent is preferably a sulfite or bisulfite compound. Examples of such compounds include, but are not limited to, alkali metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, and lithium and other metal salts, and sulfite or bisulfite derivatives, such as quaternary amines and ammonium.
  • the reducing agent is sodium bisulfite.
  • Sodium bisulfite if used by itself, is not an effective agent for straightening hair.
  • the reducing agent comprises from about 5% to about 30% by weight of the composition.
  • the reducing agent comprises about 10% to about 20% by weight of the composition.
  • the auxiliary reducing agent also functions to reduce the disulfide bonds between the keratin molecules in the hair and further enhances the straightening or waving of the hair.
  • the auxiliary reducing agent is preferably an antioxidant. Examples of antioxidant include hydroxyaromatics, such as phenols, hydroquinone, resorcinol, and catechol.
  • the auxiliary reducing agent is hydroquinone. Hydroquinone provides stability to the composition, especially to a composition wherein the reducing agent is sodium bisulfite as such a composition can be easily oxidized decreasing the ability of the composition to straighten or wave hair.
  • the auxiliary reducing agent comprises from about 5% to about 10% by weight of the composition. Preferably, the auxiliary reducing agent comprises about 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the swelling agent allows the reducing agents to penetrate into the hair bulk in order that the reducing agents can reduce the disulfide bonds and alter the configuration of the hair.
  • the swelling agent disrupts the secondary bonds in the hair resulting in the hair fiber swelling which allows for deeper penetration of the reducing agents.
  • the swelling agent comprises from about 1% to about 30% by weight of the composition.
  • the swelling agent comprises from about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition.
  • the swelling agent is selected from the group consisting of the vitamin B family of compounds.
  • examples of such compounds include nicotinic acid and mcotinamide.
  • the vitamin B compound used as a swelling agent is mcotinamide.
  • the swelling agent is selected from the group consisting of monohydroxybenzoic acids and derivatives thereof, such as salicylic acid and acetylsalicylic acid.
  • the monohydroxybenzoic acid used as a swelling agent is morpholine salicylate.
  • the swelling agent is selected from the group consisting of carbamides.
  • the carbamide used as a swelling agent is urea.
  • the swelling agent is selected from the group consisting of benzoic sulfimide salts and related benzoic sulfimide compounds.
  • benzoic sulfirnide salts include sodium benzoic sulfimide, such as sodium saccharin, potassium benzoic sulfimide, and ammonium benzoic sulfimide.
  • the benzoic sulfimide salt used as a swelling agent is sodium saccharin.
  • the pH modifying and secondary swelling agent functions to neutralize the pH of the composition in order to minimize damage to the hair and to swell the hair fiber to enhance the penetration of the reducing agents.
  • the pH modifying and secondary swelling agent is selected from the group consisting of heterocyclic compounds, such as morpholine.
  • the pH modifying and secondary swelling agent is morpholine
  • the pH modifying and secondary swelling agent comprises from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the composition.
  • the pH modifying and secondary swelli agent comprises from about 5% to about 10% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition is comprised of sodium bisulfite, hydroquinone, a swelling agent, and morpholine.
  • the swelling agent is selected from t group consisting of mcotinamide, morpholine salicylate, urea, and sodium saccharin.
  • B weight of the composition sodium bisulfite comprises from about 5% to about 30%, hydroquinone comprises from about 5% to about 10%, the swelling agent comprises from about 1% to about 30%, and morpholine comprises from about 5% to about 10
  • the composition may further be comprised of additional components.
  • Such optional components include penetration enhancers which enhance the penetration of the reducing agents into the hair fiber improving the str ghtemng or waving effect to t hair.
  • Penetration enhancers are selected from the group consisting of ethyl alcohol, propylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
  • the penetration enhancers may comprise from about 10% to about 20% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition may further include surfactants, such as wetting agen soaps, detergents, and the like, emollients, emulsion stabilizers, softening and conditioning agents, preservatives, herbal extracts or other natural extracts, and other beneficial components.
  • the process for treating hair to straighten or permanently wave the hair compri applying the composition of the present invention to the hair.
  • the composition has a near neutral pH ranging from 4 to 8, preferably the composition has a pH ranging from 5.5 to 7.
  • the composition is warmed to tepid or body temperatures, preferably at temperatures ranging from 30°C to about 50°C.
  • the composition remains in the hair for a period of time sufficient for the reducing agents to reduce the disulfide bonds between the keratin molecules and alter the structure of the hair.
  • the composition remains in the hair for about 5 to 45 minutes, more preferably the composition remains in the hair for about 10 to 30 minutes.
  • Mechanical tension may be applied during and after treating the hair with the composition to facilitate the straightening or waving process.
  • the hair should be combed periodically during and after treating it with the composition.
  • rollers or curlers may be applied to the hair during or after treating the hair with the compositioa
  • the composition is then rinsed from the hair.
  • the hair may be further treated with stabilizing compositions or other such compositions to restore the disulfide bonds in the hair.
  • stabilizing compositions include any compositions which are capable of restoring the disulfide bonds in the hair. Examples of stabilizing compositions, include but are not limited to, baking soda.
  • the present invention is further exemplified in the following examples.
  • the examples illustrate the effectiveness of the composition of the present invention in straightening hair and further illustrate the effectiveness of the composition in straightemng hair as compared to straightening compositions of the prior art. It is understood that the following examples are only illustrative of preferred embodiments according to the present invention wherein the claims set forth the scope of the present invention.
  • Example 1 A sample of virgin African-American hair was treated with composition 1 having the following formulation:
  • FIGS. 1A-1B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor ha which has been treated with composition 1.
  • FIG. 1A shows a control sample of hair
  • FIG. IB shows a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 1.
  • composition 2 having the following formulation:
  • FIGS. 2A-2B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 2.
  • FIG. 2A shows a control sample of hair and
  • FIG. 2B shows a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 2.
  • Example 3 A sample of virgin African-American hair was treated with composition 3 having the following formulation: Concentration. wt%
  • FIGS. 3A-3B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 3.
  • FIG. 3A shows a control sample of hair and
  • FIG. 3B shows a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 3.
  • composition 4 havin the following formulation:
  • FIGS. 4A-4B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 4.
  • FIG. 4A shows a control sample of hair and
  • FIG. 4B shows a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 4.
  • Comparative Example A A sample of virgin African-American hair was treated with commercially available composition A having the following formulation:
  • FIGS. 5A-5B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with the commercial composition A.
  • FIG. 5A show a control sample of hair and
  • FIG. 5B shows a sample of the same donor hair which ha been treated with the commercial composition A.
  • Example g A sample of virgin African-American hair was treated with composition 5 havin the following formulation
  • FIGS. 6A-6B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 5.
  • FIG. 6A shows a control sample of hair and
  • FIG. 6B shows a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 5.
  • FIG. 7 is a graph illustrating the effectiveness of the composition 5 for straightening hair as compared to the commercially available composition A used in Comparative Example A.
  • FIG. 7 illustrates the potentiometric data for the composition 5 and commercially available composition A used in Comparative Example A.
  • the redox potential for the commercial composition A used in Comparative Example A increased to about -120mV while the composition 5 was about -170m V.
  • the redox potential for the commercial composition A used in Comparative Example A was -140mV while the composition 5 was -200mV.
  • a sample of virgin African-American hair was treated with commercially availabl composition Rio hair for straightening or relaxing hair.
  • the hair was treated with the composition according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  • the hair was first shampooed and conditioned, and then treated with the composition for about 45 minutes at a temperature of about 40°C.
  • the hair was combed periodically while the composition remained in the hair.
  • the composition was then rinsed from the hair.
  • the hair was further treated with a conditioner for 5 minutes, rinsed, and then treated with a conditioner again and rinsed.
  • the treating process was repeated three more times.
  • the composition did not effectively straighten the hair as shown in FIG. 8.
  • FIG 8A-8C are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with the Rio composition
  • FIG. 8A shows a control sample of hair
  • FIG. 8B shows a sample of the same donor hair afte the second treatment with the Rio composition
  • FIG. 8C shows a sample of the same donor hair after the fourth treatment with the Rio composition.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates the buffering properties of the control sample and of the samples after each treatment with the Rio composition. During the first 5-10 minutes, the samples stayed relatively stable, and a decrease in pH from 11 to 10. However, after 10 minutes, the pH sharply decreased to pH 6 with time to almost within 30 minutes indicating impaired hair properties.
  • a sample of virgin African-American hair was treated with composition 5 having the formulation shown in Example 5.
  • the composition had a pH of about 65.
  • the hair was treated according to the manufacturer's instructions for the commercially available composition used in Comparative Example B.
  • the hair was first shampooed and conditioned, and then treated with the composition for about 45 minutes at a temperature of about 40°C.
  • the hair was combed periodically while the composition remained in the hair.
  • the composition was then rinsed from the hair.
  • the hair was further treated with a conditioner for 5 minutes, rinsed, and then treated with a conditioner again and rinsed. This treating process was repeated another time.
  • the composition significantly straightened the hair as shown in FIG. 10.
  • FIG. 10A-10C are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 5.
  • FIG. 10A shows a control sample of hair
  • FIG. 10B shows a sample of the same donor hair after the first treatment with composition 5
  • FIG. IOC shows a sample of the same donor hair after the second treatment with composition 5.
  • Example 7 A sample of virgin African-American hair was treated with the same commercial available composition Rio, used in Comparative Example B. The hair was treated with the commercially available composition according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  • the hair was first shampooed and conditioned, and then treated with the composition f about 45 minutes at a temperature of about 40°C. The hair was combed periodically while the composition remained in the hair. After 45 minutes, the composition was the rinsed from the hair. The hair was further treated with a conditioner for 5 minutes, rinsed, and then treated with a conditioner again and rinsed. The treating process was repeated three more times.
  • composition 5 according to the present invention having formulation as shown in Example 5.
  • the composition had a pH of about 6.5.
  • the hair was treated according to the manufacturer's instructions for the commercially available composition used above.
  • the hair was first shampooed and conditioned, and then treated with the composition for about 45 minutes at a temperature of about 40°C.
  • FIGS. 11A-11C are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African-American hair and samples of the same donor hair which have been treated with the above compositions.
  • FIG. 11A shows a control sample of hair
  • FIG. 11B shows a sample of the same donor hair after the fourth treatment with the commercially available Rio composition
  • FIG. 11C shows a sample of the same donor hair after the fourth treatment with the commercially available Rio composition and after one treatment with composition 5 according to the present invention.
  • the commercially available Rio composition did not significantly straighten the hair as shown in FIG 11B.
  • the hair was significantly straightened after one treatment with composition 5 according to the present invention as shown in FIG. llC.
  • FIG. 12 is a graph illustrating the buffering properties of the control sample, a sample which has been treated four times with the commercially available Rio composition, and three samples which have been treated four times with the commercially available Rio composition and one time with the composition 5. Treating the hair with the commercially available Rio composition significantly altered the hair. During the first 10-15 minutes, the samples stayed relatively stable, with the decrease in pH from about 12 to about 9. However, after 15 minutes, the pH sharply decreased to pH 6 indicating impaired hair properties. After one treatment with the composition 5, some of the physicochemical alteration damage to the hair was reversed. After 15 minutes, the pH of the hair only decreased to a pH of about 8 to 9.
  • FIGS. 13A-13B are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin Caucasian brown hair and a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 4.
  • FIG. 13A shows a control sample of hair and
  • FIG. 13B shows a sample of the same donor hair which has been treated with composition 4.
  • FIGS. 14A-14F are pictorial views of a control sample of virgin African- American hair and samples of the same donor hair which have been successively treated with four time composition 5.
  • FIG. 14A shows a control sample of hair
  • FIG. 14B shows a sample of the same donor hair after the first treatment with composition 5
  • FIG. 14C shows a sample of the same donor hair after the second treatment
  • FIG. 14D shows a sample of the same donor hair after the third treatment
  • FIG. 14E shows a sample of the same donor hair after the fourth treatment
  • FIG. 14F shows a sample of the same donor hair after the fifth treatment.
  • FIG. 15 is a graph illustrating the buffering properties of the control sample and of the samples after each treatment with composition 5.
  • the curve for the first treatment stands out from those for the following treatments, indicating the least damage or alteration to the hair.
  • the curves for the second through fifth treatments are located close to each other, illustrating that there is little difference in the buffering properties of the hair samples after repeated treatments. After the first processing, the repeated treatments with composition 5 did not significantly alter or damage the properties of the hair.
  • the composition of the present invention is effective in straightening and permanently waving hair, particularly virgin African-American hair.
  • the Examples and the Comparative Examples also illustrate that the compositions according to the present invention are more effective for straightening hair than the commercially available prior art compositions.
  • the Examples illustrate that compositions according to the present invention cause only minimal damage to the hair as compared to commercially available prior art compositions.
  • the Examples further illustrate that hair may be repeatedly treated with the compositions without further damage to the hair.
  • composition of the present invention safely and effectively straightens or permanently waves keratin based materials such as hair.
  • the reducing agents, the auxiliary reducing agent, the swelling agent, and the pH modifying and secondary swelling agent operate together to achieve the desired straightening or waving effect t the hair. Further, the composition effectively treats the hair at tepid or body temperatures at a near neutral pH for short periods of time, causing minimal damage the hair.

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Abstract

Cette invention concerne une composition permettant de défriser ou d'onduler de manière permanente des matières à base de kératine; plus spécifiquement il s'agit d'une composition permettant efficacement et en toute sécurité de défriser et d'onduler de manière permanente des cheveux sans les abîmer ou laisser dans les cheveux des substances indésirables. Cette composition permet plus particulièrement de défriser ou d'onduler de manière permanente, en toute sécurité et avec efficacité des cheveux difficiles à coiffer tels que des cheveux naturels non traités appartenant à des personnes d'origine afro-américaine, asiatique, méditerranéenne ou latine.
PCT/US1995/011069 1994-08-31 1995-08-31 Composition permettant de defriser et d'onduler de maniere permanente des matieres a base de keratine WO1996006544A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU35002/95A AU3500295A (en) 1994-08-31 1995-08-31 Composition for straightening and permanently waving keratin based materials

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US08/296,932 1994-08-31
US08/296,932 US5562110A (en) 1994-08-31 1994-08-31 Hair straightening and permanent waving composition
US46693795A 1995-06-06 1995-06-06
US08/466,937 1995-06-06

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1996006544A1 true WO1996006544A1 (fr) 1996-03-07

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/US1995/011069 WO1996006544A1 (fr) 1994-08-31 1995-08-31 Composition permettant de defriser et d'onduler de maniere permanente des matieres a base de keratine

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AU (1) AU3500295A (fr)
WO (1) WO1996006544A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000006094A1 (fr) * 1998-07-29 2000-02-10 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition pour les cheveux comprenant des antioxydants
ITMI20110883A1 (it) * 2011-05-18 2012-11-19 Alfa Parf Group Spa Tinture per capelli prive di idrossido d'ammonio contenenti un sistema tampone
CN115803003A (zh) * 2020-06-22 2023-03-14 莱雅公司 使用直接染料和糖精盐染色角蛋白纤维的方法以及包含所述直接染料和糖精盐的组合物

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3582259A (en) * 1966-01-07 1971-06-01 Oreal Method of treating hair to improve quality and "hold" of "sets" imparted thereto
US3800809A (en) * 1972-11-20 1974-04-02 Avon Prod Inc Bleaching composition for permanently dyed hair and method of use
US4848377A (en) * 1987-10-08 1989-07-18 Gaf Corporation Article for permanent structure alteration of hair
US5089257A (en) * 1980-08-21 1992-02-18 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preparation for the simultaneous coloring, washing, and conditioning of human hair
US5138043A (en) * 1989-12-07 1992-08-11 Union Carbide Chemicals & Plastics Technology Corporation Alkoxylated alkyl glucoside ether quaternaries useful in personal care

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3582259A (en) * 1966-01-07 1971-06-01 Oreal Method of treating hair to improve quality and "hold" of "sets" imparted thereto
US3800809A (en) * 1972-11-20 1974-04-02 Avon Prod Inc Bleaching composition for permanently dyed hair and method of use
US5089257A (en) * 1980-08-21 1992-02-18 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preparation for the simultaneous coloring, washing, and conditioning of human hair
US4848377A (en) * 1987-10-08 1989-07-18 Gaf Corporation Article for permanent structure alteration of hair
US5138043A (en) * 1989-12-07 1992-08-11 Union Carbide Chemicals & Plastics Technology Corporation Alkoxylated alkyl glucoside ether quaternaries useful in personal care

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000006094A1 (fr) * 1998-07-29 2000-02-10 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition pour les cheveux comprenant des antioxydants
ITMI20110883A1 (it) * 2011-05-18 2012-11-19 Alfa Parf Group Spa Tinture per capelli prive di idrossido d'ammonio contenenti un sistema tampone
WO2012156953A3 (fr) * 2011-05-18 2013-01-17 Alfa Parf Group S.P.A. Compositions de teinture de cheveux exemptes d'hydroxyde d'ammonium contenant un système tampon
US8834580B2 (en) 2011-05-18 2014-09-16 Alfa Parf Group S.P.A. Ammonium hydroxide-free hair dye compositions containing a buffer system
CN115803003A (zh) * 2020-06-22 2023-03-14 莱雅公司 使用直接染料和糖精盐染色角蛋白纤维的方法以及包含所述直接染料和糖精盐的组合物

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