USRE2245E - Improvement in sewing-machines for stitching button-holes - Google Patents

Description

f UNITED STA-TES PATENT OFFICE.

THE BARTRAM & FANTON -MANUFA@TUBING COMPANY, 0F DANBURY, CON- NECTICUT, ASSIGNEES, MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, OF Wl B. BAR'IRAM.1

IMPROVEMENT lNSEwlNG-MACHINES FOR 'ISTITCHING BUITONH0LES.

Specification forming part o1 Letters Patent No. 50,870, dated November 7, 1865; Reissue No. 2,245, dated May 15, 1866.

To all fio/wm @may concern:

Be it known that WALKER of Reddin g, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, did invent certain Improvements in SewingMachines, of which thetollowing is a Ifull, clear, and exact description,

I referen ce being had to the accompanying drawings,in which- Y Figurel is a plan view of my machine.- Fig. 2 is an end elevatlon of the same. Fig. 3 is a vertical longitudinal section through the line hole i slit at right angles to its length, for the purpose ot' staying and strengthening said button-hole; second, in stitching by machinery button-holes having no rounded opening at the end of'the slit cut in the fabric, and in perfectly finishing the'same at the ends of the slit and fastening the ends 0f the thread with- -out using a hand-needle; third, in devices which enable me to work button-holes withl round ends; fourth, in the adaptation of devices for accomplishing these purposes.

Button -holes may be divided into two classes: iirst, those which have round ends, such as are commonly made in garments constructed of thick cloth, in which it is also common to enlarge one end .of the button-hole in the form of an eyelet, for the better accommodation ofthe shank of the button 5 second, those which are made with square ends, and commonly strengthened and uished by stitches which pass from one side over to the other in the form cfa bar across each end. These are seen in garments of linen or other thin fabrics.

That others may understand my invention,

I Willparticularly describe those devices which are herein shown and their operation to accomplish the purposes specified.

The general construction ofthe machine to whichinygdevices are represented as bem g at- B. BARTRAM,

tached is that of the well-known Wheeler St 'Wilson sewing-machine, though it is evident that that general' construction of the machine is not material.

In my improved machine the cloth-plate or table A is kept in place upon the supports B B by screws*(lpassingl through slots D in the said plate, so as to allow thc said plate. to have a backward and forward movement at' right angles to the line of feed, to enable the stitch to be transferred alternately from th'e cloth to the slit which forms the button-hole.

lution of the drivingshaft the end of this arm' takes holdl of 011e of the teeth of 'the spurwheel I and turns it through the space of one tooth. The spur-wheel is doublethat is, it

consists of two toothed or ratchet-wheels, I I', the latter one being `furnished with a set of teeth which are in number Onehalt the number of the teeth or ratchets ofthe wheel l, as shown. in red lines in Fig. 3. Said spur-Wheels I land I may be pivoted toa standard attached to the bed-plate of the machine. A,

J is a stopattachcd to thev under side ofthe plate A, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4. Said stop has aprojectioi'na, catching into the teeth of the Wheel l.

K is arod or bar extending across the m'achine and resting against the supports B B', as shown in FigA. To the bar K, near its ends,

and to the lower side of the plate A,a1-e attached two springs,L L, Figs. 3 and 4. These springs serve to move the plate A, so that the projection .a on the stop J is alwayskept in contact with the wheel I.

It is a stop-levcr, wh`ich is attached oripivoted-to the under side of the plate A in such a way that it may at `will be moved forward against the end of the feed-.bar b, and by pressing said feed-bar forward away from the cam which operates it the fcc'd of the machine may be stopped at any time..

Tothe upper side of the plate A, beneath.'y

of theneedle and feed.

. 0 is a cloth-holder for n which the button-hole is to be made.

are selnieircular, hat to operate the needle-arm i t also throws forsentcd'in Fig-.L

the presser M, is attached va small circular plate, N, provided with slots for the passage holding the clothin vThe ends ot' this cloth-holder thev` sides are straight and parallel, as ren away so as to form a slot with circular ends Said slot is of' such a size as to exactly fit the A' small circular plate Naud allow the holder (l 1 to slide along the top of the plateA-and to be turned around thereon, the circular plate and also to insure 'cloth-holder, as above stated.

Buttoirholes of any size may be made on teristics shown vin Fig.. l

forming a button-hole where a square end f 'is needed, as shown` in Fig. 6, in order to resented'in Fig. (i. ,lhe I extend from theonter side of the row of stitches on one side of the button-hole to the outer y"N'"beingfall the cloth-holden P is a guide attached tothe'top ot' the platev A, and at a distance from the circular plateN of the button-hole,

`size to time within the slotot' the equal to the between the breadth of the side of said holder Youter edge of the slot and the onteredgeof said holder, so as to guide the holder as it 'slides along the plate A and is turned about the circular plateN by the action of the feed operating upon the cloth at one sideof the axial line ot' said holder.' I

The upper side of the clotlrholder 01s furnished with lprojecting pins to keep the cloth from changing its/position upon said clothholder while the button-hole is being made,

this v'holder by beginning lat the inner end workingaround the outer to the place ot'- beginning, or a may be provided graduated in the size ot' the intended button-hole, whichy will in such case form a button-,hole whose stitched ends will present the. characend and back set of holders strengthen it it Ais necessary to stitch across the ends, technically known as barring. To do this the extent of the backward and forwardA motion lot' the plate A must he doubled,

' ."so that the end or barring stitches may be twice as long as the other stitches.

acconiplishedas follows: The stoplevoriv It "forced up against theend of the feedbar so "as to force operates it, amltherebystopthe feed. Then,

by pulling upon the ring or handle ofthe stop` '.ljhis is the l'eed awayi'roin'the cam which J, [increase the throw oi' the plate A, the stop E preventing the than the desired distance.

` The button-holcs made in this way are repbarring-stitches may side'of the row ot' stitches on the other side ofthe same; or that distance may be divided into seueral stitches by so as to' move the plate portion oi the distance it one stitch, and for the laterally, but only'a might be moved for next stitch another down the facefot' the tooth its being turned with `the stopping the feed, while by plate from moving farther pulling at the ring Jy portion, 4until the stop E will notpermit the plate A to be moved farther, the' feed E being ireldlat rest all the while in'the manner shown.

-.()peration As thel eccentric draws the end of the eccentric-rod forward and'raises 1t ward and raises the arm H, as heretofore described, which motion causesy said arm'to take hold ot' one of lthe small teeth ou the 'wheell and revolve said wheel one notch. Cillfi'e revolution of the wheel I causes the wheel l to vrevolve in a corresponding man'- ner, and the projection cansedto slide up the inclined side of one ,0f

the larger teeth of the wheelI, and leaves said. projection' a resting upon thebroad end of theV tooth, instead of being in the notch between two teeth.

cloth forward, so; that the next stitch will be'v stead of being Vtaken through the cloth. l"The next revolution of the eccentric causes the arm H to revolve the wheel I one' notch farther, and this affects ythe wheel l so that the projection a ot Y Il into the notch between that tooth and lthe next one, and the springsrL cause the plate A and the cloth to be drawn back a distance equal to the depth of the `notches between the teeth on the .wheel 1. The stitch is now taken through the cloth,

and so oncontil'iually until. the` end of` the button-hole is reached, when, if it is to be squareand barred across the eud,the1stop lever It is pressed forward hy the thumb, thus inserting u lfinger n1 the ring or handle ofthe stop J and pulling the same toward the attendant the throw of theI plate is doubled, or, iu

button-hole at right angles to its axis. When one end is thus completed the cloth is reversed and the other side of the button-hole is completed in' like manner, when, by holding the plate A. ina fixed position during the time when the needle descends twice, a coil of the lower thread will be formed around the needle` thread, and upon drawing up the slack this will securely fasten the stitch.` l lf, however, it be desired' to make the button-hole as represented in Fig. 7, then the simpleoperation of makingthe stitches beginning until the button-hole is completed, thei holder a0 serving to turn the ends without supervisiouon the part ofthe attendant. g It is evidentthat fthe' ends of this latter buttonhole may be barred, if desired, in the manner.

already describe( It is also evident that one endl may be'vsquare and barred while the other end is rounded,as in Fig. 7

Frein the-foregoing description it will be perceived thatthe lateralI length of the stitch] may be increased at pleasure while the ma chine is in operation, or substitution of any of its parts, and that the a onlthe stop J is..

This noves the plateA and the in a like manner, the stop. J slides ei'ect, the feed isl changed so as to stitch vacross the end of theis continued froml the and without the removal l position of the needle in relation to the surface of the material heilig stitched is the same in every stroke thereof'. Having described my invention, what I 'claimd as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is- Y 1. Stitching a bar across the end of a. button-hole for the purpose of strengthening the same by `means of devices which produce a lateral reciproeation of the material being stitched while it is also heilig Vfed forward, and permit the extent of the said lateral reciprocat-ion to be increased at will by hand while.v the machine continues in operation.

2. W ,rking and entirely completing a button-hole without the use cfa hand-needle by means ot" devices substantially as herein described.

3. In combination with the arxn II, the wheel I and the eccentric ot' .the driving-shaft of n. Sewing-machine or its equivalents, for the purpose set forth. i

4. 1n combination with tllb wheels Land I', the arm lI a'ud the stop J, l'irovided with thel projection a, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

5. In combination with the wheel I', thestop J andthe plate A,snbstantially as and for the purpose set forth.`

G. In combination with the movable plate A of a sewing-n1aehne,the cloth-holder l) and the circuler plate N, as and for the purpose set forth. 4 7. In combination with the cloth-holder 0, the stationary guide P and circular plate N, substantially as and for the purpose set forth. 8. In combination with the springs L, the stop J, wheels I l', arm II, and the eccentric of the driving-shaft of a sewing-machine, substantially as described, for the purpose ot' producing a zigzag' stitch.

9. In combination with the feed-bar b and its eccentric regulating-lever, the lever R, for throwing the feed-bar entirely out of action, substantiallyT as and for the purpose herein set forth. n i I BAlt'lRAlll'tt FANTON MANF. C0., ily li.` B. FAN'ION,

President.

Witnesses:

B. F. Ryman., DAVID B. BoorrH.

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