US922440A - Sewing-machine hemmer. - Google Patents

Sewing-machine hemmer. Download PDF

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Publication number
US922440A
US922440A US7490501A US1901074905A US922440A US 922440 A US922440 A US 922440A US 7490501 A US7490501 A US 7490501A US 1901074905 A US1901074905 A US 1901074905A US 922440 A US922440 A US 922440A
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Prior art keywords
tongue
scroll
hemmer
cloth
goods
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US7490501A
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Winslow R Parsons
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Chicago Title & Trust Co
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Chicago Title & Trust Co
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/02Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for facilitating seaming; Hem-turning elements; Hemmers

Definitions

  • My invention relates to that class of hemmers designed to be secured to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine, and it has for its primary object to make the hemmer and its shank integral with the presser foot from a single blank because it is not only very diflicult to secure these parts together with accuracy when made separately, but thus securing them entails a very material additional expense in the cost of manufaeture.
  • a subsidiary object of my invention is to reduce the friction of the cloth against the scroll to a minimum.
  • That change consists in the main in giving the left hand edge of the scroll the form of a screw or spiral gradually inclining from the right hand side at a point above the tongue and continuing to the left hand side, and thence under the top fold of the scroll in a diagonal direction toward the right, always tending toward the needle hole in a quick uninterrupted spiral to and across a straight line passing through the longitudinal axis of the scroll and through the needle hole, whereby the friction on the raw edge of the fabric will be reduced to the minimum.
  • Figure 1 is a bottom plan view of the blank for making the minimum size hemmer illustrated herein;
  • Fig. 2 is a bottom plan View of the complete hemmer, showing a portion of the hem entering it
  • Fig. 3 is an end or mouth view thereof;
  • Fig. 4 is a side elevation thereof, looking from the right, in Fig. 3;
  • Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 1, illustrating the blank for making the maximum. size of hemmer herein described;
  • Fig. 6 is a bottom perspective view of the complete hemmer made therefrom;
  • Fig. 7 is an end or mouth view thereof;
  • Fig. 8 is a side elevation thereof, looking from. the right in Fig. 9;
  • Fig. 9 is a top perspective view;
  • Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic end view of the smaller size of hemmer, illustrated in Fig. 3, showing the goods by dotted line, and also illustrating the position of the needle;
  • Fig. 1.1 is a similar
  • the blank may be provided near one end of the stock A with a longitudinal slot 1, and on each side near the inner end of said slot, with a concave cut-out 2.
  • the blank is provided on one side with a transverse cut 3, which extends inwardly to a point substantially in line with hole 4, formed in the stock for the passage of the needle 5, and with a slot 1, and diametrically opposite this in-cut 3 on the other side is formed a recess 6.
  • the stock or body portion A is bent transversely along dotted line 7, so as to form the upper horizontal end or foot shank 8, and it is again bent transversely on dotted line 9 at the opposite ends of the concave cut-outs 2, to form downwardly extending inclined portion 10, and also horizontal foot portion 11, through which the needle passes and which rests flat upon the machine feed, as usual. From a point adjacent to the hole 4 it is turned upwardly on a slight incline, on transverse line 12, so as to accommodate itself to the position of the scroll member B.
  • the scroll member comprises a tongue portion 13, which is divided from the main part of the scroll by an approximately V- shaped or tapering in-cut 14, forming a rounded shoulder 15 on the right hand side of the tongue, when viewed as in Figs. 1 and 5 and (see Fig. 6) opposing curved edges let and 149, the left hand side being straight and extending at a slight angle with reference to the side of the stock or, more accurately speaking, to the line of movement of the goods.
  • This tongue 13 is curled upwardly and inwardly from left to right, as viewed in the figures just referred to, along dotted line 16, the straight edge of the tongue being arranged substantially parallel with the line of movement of the goods, so as to form means for turning the raw edge under.
  • the outer end of tongue 13 is bent downwardly, considering the device upside down, or upwardly, considering the device rightside up, as shown in dotted lines at 17, Fig. 4, for the purpose which will be hereinafter described, and a finger portion 18 also comprised by scroll member B, is then bent upwardly and over the tongue 13 from right to left, as viewed upside down, in Fig. 1, and so as to project transversely under and at a considerable distance below the elevated end of tongue 13 when the device is right side up, this curling of the finger 18 being started along dotted line 19, which extends from the inner end of recess 6 in a direction substantially lengthwise of the line of movement of the goods, the extremity of the finger 18 being carried laterally a considerable distance, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, to constitute a convenient guide for inserting the edge of the goods in the hemmer.
  • the raw edge of the goods is inserted in the hemmer over the guide finger 18 from left to right, as viewed in Fig. 3, and carried upwardly over and thence under the tongue 13, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 10.
  • One side of the tongue 13 being provided with the rounded shoulder 15, as before described, which in the completed hemmer projects toward the finger portion 18 of the scroll, as shown in Figs.
  • a part of the goods is shown in full lines with the raw edge turned under to form a hem and arranged in the position which it enters the hemmer, both the hemmer and the goods, however, being shown upside down for the sake of clearer illustration, and the passage of the raw edge of the goods through the hemmer being in dicated by the line 20 and from this it will be observed that in the upside down position the raw edge passes under the outer end of the tongue, and thence over that portion of the scroll lying between the inner narrow neck of the tongue and the cut-out 3, the main body of the goods, of course, passing over the latter part of the scroll or between such part and the guide finger 18, as clearly indicated in Fig. 10.
  • the tongue 13 is turned inwardly from left to right, as viewed in said figure, on the line 16, so that the straight edge of the tongue will be in a line substantially parallel with the line of movement of the goods, and like the straight edge of the tongue of the smaller size, will serve to hold the turn or fold of the goods into close proximity to that part of the scroll or finger 18 which is lapped around said straight edge.
  • the tongue 13 has beenthus folded inwardly on a grad ual or rounded bend, as better shown at 21, Figs.
  • the narrow neck of the tongue or part where it adjoins the main scroll member is bent downwardly on line 22, so that when the hemmer is right side up the main part of the tongue will be elevated considerably above its rounded neck portion 21, and will be in a plane approximately half way between the top fold of the scroll and said rounded neck portion, so that the raw edge of the goods may pass under the rounded shoulder of the tongue and thence over the rounded neck 21, substantially the same as already described with reference to the smaller size, the bend of the rounded. neck portion 21 corresponding in function and purpose to the inclined bend 17, shown in Fig. 4.
  • the left hand edge of the scroll is formed on a quick uninterrupted spiral Y which extends from the right hand side toward the left and inwardly toward the needle hole, and thence toward the right under the top fold of the scroll and into the tongue 13, which inward turn of the spiral being produced.
  • the sharp ineut 14 and this inner end of the spiral extends in an oblique direction toward the needle hole and across a straight line passing through the needle hole and the longitudinal axis of the scroll, the spiral being continuous from the outer end of the top fold of the scroll to the inner end of the incut 14, and always tending in an inward direction or toward the needle hole, will afford a gradually curving and smooth edge for the goods to slide against.
  • a sewing machine hemmer comprising a body portion, a scroll portion having upper and lower folds, a cloth supporting tongue embraced between said folds and formed on a continuation of the upper fold, said tongue extending longitudinally of the hemmer and the left hand side thereof being gradually curved from the right hand side at the forward outer end inwardly, and toward the left and thence under the upper fold and the scroll, back toward the right in an oblique direction.
  • a sewing machine hemmer comprising a body portion having a needle passage, a scroll portion provided with upper and lower folds, a cloth supporting tongue embraced between said folds and formed on a continuation of said upper fold, said tongue extending longitudinally of the hemmer and the left hand side thereof being curved from the forward outer end of the right hand side inwardly and toward the left and thence back toward the right in an oblique direction approaching the needle passage.
  • a sewing machine hemmer having a body portion, a needle hole therein, a scroll portion comprising upper and lower folds, a cloth supporting tongue portion embraced between said folds, said body portion being provided with opposing curved edges extending in an oblique direction approaching the needle hole and forming a continuous spiral guideway for the cloth from the outer end of the top fold of the scroll to its juncture with the tongue, whereby a gradual curving smooth edge is provided for the cloth to slide against as it passes through the hemmer, substantially as described.
  • a sewing machine hemmer having a body portion, a needle hole therein, a folded scroll portion comprising upper and lower folds, an elevated cloth supporting tongue between said folds, said tongue and body portions being provided with opposing curved edges extending in an oblique direction approaching the needle hole and forming a continuous spiral guide-way for the cloth from the outer end of the top fold of the scroll to its juncture with the tongue, whereby the fold of the cloth is elevated above its raw edge and a gradual creasing smooth edge is formed for the cloth to slide against in its passage through the hemmer.
  • a new and useful article of manufacture comprising in combination, a hemmer and a presser-foot of uniform thickness throughout, and bent from a single piece of sheet metal, substantially as described.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

W. R. PARSONS.
, SEWING MACHINE HEMMER.
APPLIOATION FILED SEPT. 10, 1901. I
Patented May 18, 1909.
1n: NORRIS PETE 0., WASHINGTON, a. c.
UNITED STATS FATENT OFFICES.
WINSLOW R. PARSONS, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR TO CHICAGO TITLE & TRUST COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.
SEWING-MACHINE Specification of Letters Patent.
Application filed September 10, 1901.
latented May 18, 1909.
Serial No. 74 905.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, WmsLow R. PAnsoNs, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-dachine I-Iemmers, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact specification.
My invention relates to that class of hemmers designed to be secured to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine, and it has for its primary object to make the hemmer and its shank integral with the presser foot from a single blank because it is not only very diflicult to secure these parts together with accuracy when made separately, but thus securing them entails a very material additional expense in the cost of manufaeture.
A subsidiary object of my invention is to reduce the friction of the cloth against the scroll to a minimum.
In making these parts integral, however, serious difficulties are encountered. The foot and shank require to be of heavy stock while the scroll and its cloth support should be thin so that they may lie close to the bed of the sewing machine and not elevate the fabric to an extent causing it to pucker or wrinkle where it turns upwardly and em braces the tongue or cloth support of the hammer. Yet to be commercially successful the blank from which the device is made must be of uniform thickness. This extra thickness of the metal, however, makes the scroll unusually high or thick when sufficient space is allowed between the folds of the scroll and the tongue for the passage of the cloth, and, as a consequence, the tongue or cloth support is elevated a material distance above the plane which is occupied by the tongue of the ordinary hemmer composed of thin stock. To meet these difficulties and secure the advantages of the single piece hemmer and foot necessitates changes in the l mer 1s formed is a flat strlp or sheet of mateform of the scroll whereby the extra eleva tion of the cloth will not cause it to wrinkle or pucker where it passes upward and around the tongue. That change consists in the main in giving the left hand edge of the scroll the form of a screw or spiral gradually inclining from the right hand side at a point above the tongue and continuing to the left hand side, and thence under the top fold of the scroll in a diagonal direction toward the right, always tending toward the needle hole in a quick uninterrupted spiral to and across a straight line passing through the longitudinal axis of the scroll and through the needle hole, whereby the friction on the raw edge of the fabric will be reduced to the minimum.
With these ends in view, my invention consists in certain features of novelty in the construction, combination and arrangement of parts by which the said objects and certain other objects hereinafter appearing are attained, all as fully described with reference to the accompanying drawings and more particularly pointed out in the claims.
In illustrating the invention, I have shown it embodied in two widely different sizes of hemmers, and as will hereinafter appear, the intermediate sizes will differ from these only in the relative proportions of the parts, as will also those sizes greater than the maximum and less than the minimum herein shown.
In the said drawings Figure 1 is a bottom plan view of the blank for making the minimum size hemmer illustrated herein; Fig. 2 is a bottom plan View of the complete hemmer, showing a portion of the hem entering it Fig. 3 is an end or mouth view thereof; Fig. 4 is a side elevation thereof, looking from the right, in Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 1, illustrating the blank for making the maximum. size of hemmer herein described; Fig. 6 is a bottom perspective view of the complete hemmer made therefrom; Fig. 7 is an end or mouth view thereof; Fig. 8 is a side elevation thereof, looking from. the right in Fig. 9; Fig. 9 is a top perspective view; Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic end view of the smaller size of hemmer, illustrated in Fig. 3, showing the goods by dotted line, and also illustrating the position of the needle; and Fig. 1.1 is a similar view of the larger size of hemmer.
The blank from which my improved hemrial, preferably malleable steel, formed with a stock or body portion, the whole of which may be indicated by the single reference letter A, and with a scroll portion, which may be generally indicated by the reference letter B. As the blank is formed, it may be provided near one end of the stock A with a longitudinal slot 1, and on each side near the inner end of said slot, with a concave cut-out 2. At the point where the body or stock A adjoins the scroll member B, the blank is provided on one side with a transverse cut 3, which extends inwardly to a point substantially in line with hole 4, formed in the stock for the passage of the needle 5, and with a slot 1, and diametrically opposite this in-cut 3 on the other side is formed a recess 6.
The stock or body portion A is bent transversely along dotted line 7, so as to form the upper horizontal end or foot shank 8, and it is again bent transversely on dotted line 9 at the opposite ends of the concave cut-outs 2, to form downwardly extending inclined portion 10, and also horizontal foot portion 11, through which the needle passes and which rests flat upon the machine feed, as usual. From a point adjacent to the hole 4 it is turned upwardly on a slight incline, on transverse line 12, so as to accommodate itself to the position of the scroll member B.
The scroll member comprises a tongue portion 13, which is divided from the main part of the scroll by an approximately V- shaped or tapering in-cut 14, forming a rounded shoulder 15 on the right hand side of the tongue, when viewed as in Figs. 1 and 5 and (see Fig. 6) opposing curved edges let and 149, the left hand side being straight and extending at a slight angle with reference to the side of the stock or, more accurately speaking, to the line of movement of the goods. This tongue 13 is curled upwardly and inwardly from left to right, as viewed in the figures just referred to, along dotted line 16, the straight edge of the tongue being arranged substantially parallel with the line of movement of the goods, so as to form means for turning the raw edge under. After this has been done the outer end of tongue 13 is bent downwardly, considering the device upside down, or upwardly, considering the device rightside up, as shown in dotted lines at 17, Fig. 4, for the purpose which will be hereinafter described, and a finger portion 18 also comprised by scroll member B, is then bent upwardly and over the tongue 13 from right to left, as viewed upside down, in Fig. 1, and so as to project transversely under and at a considerable distance below the elevated end of tongue 13 when the device is right side up, this curling of the finger 18 being started along dotted line 19, which extends from the inner end of recess 6 in a direction substantially lengthwise of the line of movement of the goods, the extremity of the finger 18 being carried laterally a considerable distance, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, to constitute a convenient guide for inserting the edge of the goods in the hemmer.
In the use of the device thus described the raw edge of the goods is inserted in the hemmer over the guide finger 18 from left to right, as viewed in Fig. 3, and carried upwardly over and thence under the tongue 13, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 10. One side of the tongue 13 being provided with the rounded shoulder 15, as before described, which in the completed hemmer projects toward the finger portion 18 of the scroll, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, constitutes the cloth support for holding the fold or bend of the goods over close to that portion of the scroll and holding the upper fold of the cloth aloof from the raw edge and permitting the raw edge to pass under the shoulder 15 and thence through the \l-shaped cut-outle, and over that portion of the scroll which lies be tween the inner end of cut-out 1 1 and transverse cut 3, the inner end or neck of the tongue 13 being bent downwardly at 17, as before described, for this purpose.
In Fig. 2 of the drawing a part of the goods is shown in full lines with the raw edge turned under to form a hem and arranged in the position which it enters the hemmer, both the hemmer and the goods, however, being shown upside down for the sake of clearer illustration, and the passage of the raw edge of the goods through the hemmer being in dicated by the line 20 and from this it will be observed that in the upside down position the raw edge passes under the outer end of the tongue, and thence over that portion of the scroll lying between the inner narrow neck of the tongue and the cut-out 3, the main body of the goods, of course, passing over the latter part of the scroll or between such part and the guide finger 18, as clearly indicated in Fig. 10.
The difference betweens the form of the invention thus described and the larger form shown in Figs. 5 to 11 (10 excluded), are incidental to the increase in size and are largely mere differences of proportion. This is strictly true with reference to the blank with the exception that in the larger blank the recess 6 is omitted, because in the larger sizes it is not necessary to fold the finger 18 inwardly so far toward the longitudinal axis of the device, as it is with the smaller size. In forming a hemmer of the size shown in Fig. 5, the tongue 13 is turned inwardly from left to right, as viewed in said figure, on the line 16, so that the straight edge of the tongue will be in a line substantially parallel with the line of movement of the goods, and like the straight edge of the tongue of the smaller size, will serve to hold the turn or fold of the goods into close proximity to that part of the scroll or finger 18 which is lapped around said straight edge. After the tongue 13 has beenthus folded inwardly on a grad ual or rounded bend, as better shown at 21, Figs. 7 and 11, the narrow neck of the tongue or part where it adjoins the main scroll member, is bent downwardly on line 22, so that when the hemmer is right side up the main part of the tongue will be elevated considerably above its rounded neck portion 21, and will be in a plane approximately half way between the top fold of the scroll and said rounded neck portion, so that the raw edge of the goods may pass under the rounded shoulder of the tongue and thence over the rounded neck 21, substantially the same as already described with reference to the smaller size, the bend of the rounded. neck portion 21 corresponding in function and purpose to the inclined bend 17, shown in Fig. 4.
It will thus be seen that in both forms of my invention the left hand edge of the scroll is formed on a quick uninterrupted spiral Y which extends from the right hand side toward the left and inwardly toward the needle hole, and thence toward the right under the top fold of the scroll and into the tongue 13, which inward turn of the spiral being produced. by the sharp ineut 14, and this inner end of the spiral extends in an oblique direction toward the needle hole and across a straight line passing through the needle hole and the longitudinal axis of the scroll, the spiral being continuous from the outer end of the top fold of the scroll to the inner end of the incut 14, and always tending in an inward direction or toward the needle hole, will afford a gradually curving and smooth edge for the goods to slide against. It will also be seen that by making the outer end of the tongue 13 flat and in a higher plane than the curled portion of the neck of metal between the lines 16 and 22, in the form shown in Fig. 5, and between the line 16 and the outer edge of the incut 3, in the form shown in 1, I am enabled to elevate the top fold of the cloth above the raw edge, as shown in Fig. 11, without producing any sharp edges for the cloth to drag over, or adding separate pieces to the tongue, it being obvious that the broad flat surface of the outer edge of the tongue 13 produces less friction on the cloth when the latter is vided with upper and lower folds, a cloth supporting tongue embraced between said upper and lower folds and formed 011 a continuation of the upper fold, the forward outer end of said tongue being straight on the right hand side and extending longitudinally of the hemmer, and the left hand side being gradually curved from the forward end of said straight edge inwardly toward the left and thence under the upper fold of the scroll back toward the right in an oblique direction.
2. A sewing machine hemmer comprising a body portion, a scroll portion having upper and lower folds, a cloth supporting tongue embraced between said folds and formed on a continuation of the upper fold, said tongue extending longitudinally of the hemmer and the left hand side thereof being gradually curved from the right hand side at the forward outer end inwardly, and toward the left and thence under the upper fold and the scroll, back toward the right in an oblique direction.
3. A sewing machine hemmer comprising a body portion having a needle passage, a scroll portion provided with upper and lower folds, a cloth supporting tongue embraced between said folds and formed on a continuation of said upper fold, said tongue extending longitudinally of the hemmer and the left hand side thereof being curved from the forward outer end of the right hand side inwardly and toward the left and thence back toward the right in an oblique direction approaching the needle passage.
4. A sewing machine hemmer having a body portion, a needle hole therein, a scroll portion comprising upper and lower folds, a cloth supporting tongue portion embraced between said folds, said body portion being provided with opposing curved edges extending in an oblique direction approaching the needle hole and forming a continuous spiral guideway for the cloth from the outer end of the top fold of the scroll to its juncture with the tongue, whereby a gradual curving smooth edge is provided for the cloth to slide against as it passes through the hemmer, substantially as described.
5. A sewing machine hemmer having a body portion, a needle hole therein, a folded scroll portion comprising upper and lower folds, an elevated cloth supporting tongue between said folds, said tongue and body portions being provided with opposing curved edges extending in an oblique direction approaching the needle hole and forming a continuous spiral guide-way for the cloth from the outer end of the top fold of the scroll to its juncture with the tongue, whereby the fold of the cloth is elevated above its raw edge and a gradual creasing smooth edge is formed for the cloth to slide against in its passage through the hemmer.
6. A new and useful article of manufacture, comprising in combination, a hemmer and a presser-foot of uniform thickness throughout, and bent from a single piece of sheet metal, substantially as described.
WINSLOWV R. PARSONS. l/Vitnesses F. A. HOPKINS, W. D. Onoss.
US7490501A 1901-09-10 1901-09-10 Sewing-machine hemmer. Expired - Lifetime US922440A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3974788A (en) * 1973-07-27 1976-08-17 Ugo Pignatti Attachment for sewing borders and collars on knitted garments

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3974788A (en) * 1973-07-27 1976-08-17 Ugo Pignatti Attachment for sewing borders and collars on knitted garments

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