US777564A - Sewing-machine for forming groups or stitches. - Google Patents
Sewing-machine for forming groups or stitches. Download PDFInfo
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- US777564A US777564A US18869704A US1904188697A US777564A US 777564 A US777564 A US 777564A US 18869704 A US18869704 A US 18869704A US 1904188697 A US1904188697 A US 1904188697A US 777564 A US777564 A US 777564A
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- needle
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B3/00—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
- D05B3/12—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for fastening articles by sewing
- D05B3/14—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for fastening articles by sewing perforated or press buttons
Definitions
- buttons to garments or in mechanically performing other sewing operations with two-thread sewing-machines forming groups of stitches as in barring or tacking or stitching buttonholes
- the invention may be carried into effect on any suitable two-thread lock-stitch sewing machine equipped with means for shifting or feeding'the work beneath the needles or for shifting the needle relative to the work in forming. groups of stitches by moving the needle or work, as a group of stitches is about to be completed, in such direction as to cause the needle to twist its own thread twice at two view of the double cam devicefor tripping the stop-motion.
- Fig. 8 is a detail view of the stop-motion cam.
- l and 14 are somewhat diagrammatic views illustrating the method of carrying the invention into effect
- Fig. 15 is "a somewhat dia grammatic view illustrative of the completed result.
- the stitch-forming mechanism of the ma chine is that of a well-known form of Singer lockstitch machine equipped with means for. sewing buttons to fabrics by groups of stitches, each of which willhave a predetermined number, in that the machine isprovided with a stop-motion device which willbe tripped automatically when a desired number of stitches have been formed, the present machine being also equipped with an automatic thread-cutting device which will sever both threadsof the lock-stitch seam after said threads have been tied into a hard knot in accordance with the present invention.
- the present machine which will now be generally described, comprises the needle 12, carried by a vertically-reciprocating needlebar 13, operated from a driving-shaft 14, journaled in the upper part of the arm' 15, and an oscillating shuttle '16, located below the workplate 17 and operatively connected in the usual manner with the said driving-shaft, which latter is in the present instance provided with a loose pulley 18 and a fast pulley 19, said fast pulley having an integral or rigidly-attached stop-motion cam 20.
- a start and stop motion lever 23 Pivotally mounted at its lower end in a projection 21 on a bracket 22 is a start and stop motion lever 23, provided with a belt-shifter '24 and with aplunger 25, pressed upward by a suitable spring, the said start and stop motionlever being acted on by acoil-spring 26, having a tend ency to force the upper end of said start and stop motion lever outward, but which tendency is restrained by a detent-lever 27, which serves to retain said start and stop motion lever in its inoperative position, as shown'in Flgs. 1 and 2.
- the start and stop motion lever is provided with a depending arm 30, having a slot or hole 31, the purpose of which will presently appear.
- the driving-shaft 14 is provided with a worm 32, meshing with a worm+wheel 33, fixed to a shaft 34,- to which is also” secured a cam-wheel 35, having in its outer face cam tracks or grooves 36 and 37 and in its inner face a cam track or groove 38.
- the cam-track 36 is en- "tered by a roller-stud at the upper end of a lever 39, fulcrumed in a bracket 40 and extending down through the work-plate 17.
- the lower end of the lever 39 is connected by a pitman 41 to a block 42, adjustable in a slot 44 of an arm 45 ofa bell-crank lever fulcrumed on a stud 46 and the shorter arm 47 of which is connected by a link'48 with a sliding plate 49 beneath the work-plate of the machine.
- the plate 49 is attached a plate 50, located above the work-plate of the machine.
- yokes forming the ends of the pitman 41 preferably have an adjustable connection consisting of a rod 411, oppositely threaded at its opposite ends and entering threaded sleeves 412,
- the work-holder comprises upper and lower members, between which-the work is yieldingly held and which are movable in any desired horizontal direction beneath the needle 12.
- the upper member or presser-foot of the work-clamp is constructedas a button-holder 51, carried by an arm 52, attached to a block 53, which is in' turn secured to a plate or bar 54, resting on and loosely connected to the plate 50, and which plate or bar 54 carries the movable throatplate 55.
- This'movable throat-plate 55 is not essential, asfor many purposes the presser- The foot of the work-holder might rest upon the work lying directly on a stationary throatplate.
- the presser-foot of. the work-holder is forced yieldingly downward by a platespring 56.
- the lower plate or bar 54 of the work-holder is provided at its rear end with a rigidly-attached pin or post 57, receivedin a recess or slot of a hollow or slotted lower arm of a lever 58, fulcrumed or pivoted on the bracket 40, and the upper arm of which is provided with a pin or roller-stud entering the camgroove 38 of the cam-wheel35.
- Vertically adjustable on the pin or post 57 between the flanges of the lower hollow or slotted armof the lever 58 is a contact-block 59, held in any desired position of adjustment by a set-screw 60.
- lever 45 47 the extent of movement of the workholder crosswise of the machine will likewise be varied, as will be understood.
- the present machine is preferably provided with a thread-cuttingmechanism essentially the same in principle as that shown and described by United States Patent No. 702,832,
- a lever 7,0 pivotally mounted on a bracket 71 and provided at its upper end with a pin or roller-stud entering the camgroove 37 in the outer face-of the cam-wheel 35.
- the sliding bar 67 carries at its rear end a pin or roller-stud 72, engaged by the forked arm 73 of abell-crank lever, the other arm, 7 42', of which is provided with a pin or block 75, having a stud 7 6, engaged by a spring 7 7,
- the two levers and 7 3 74 serve through the connections above described to impart what may be termed a two-stage movement to the thread-cutters from the cam-groove 37 and the stop-motion device in a manner somewhat similar to that described in United States Patent No. 7 02,832,abovereferred to,although the first-stage movement of the thread-cutters imparted thereto from the said cam-groove is in the present instance a two-step movement.
- a group of stitches is nearly completed the portion 371 of the.
- cam-groove 37 will act on the pin, or roller-stud at the upper end of the lever 70, and thus cause a partial forward movement to be imparted to the thread cutters or knives 61 62 to cause the finger of the cutter 61 to engage the shuttlethread, and at the next succeeding stitch the said knives or cutters will be farther advanced by the portion 372 of the said cam-groove to cause the finger of the cutter 62 to enter a loop of needle-thread.
- the cam-wheel 35 is provided on its inner face with a cam projection or projections 43 to trip the detent-lever 27 when the machine is to be stopped.
- the spring 26 forces the upper end of'said start and stop motion lever outward. and thus brings the spring-pressed plunger 25 beneath the cam 20 on the fast pulley 19.
- Adjacent to said cam is a notch 78, beyond which is a tappet 79.
- a movable thread-controller consisting of a thin curved plate-spring 92, which presses upward against the under side of the throat-plate 93 and which serves to nip the end of the needlethread against the throat-plate after the said thread has been severed and to hold said end until it is fastened in the work by the formation of twoor three stitches of the next group, as fully set forth in the application of Charles -M. Horton, filed January 12, 1904:, Serial No.
- the stress of thesaid spring 90 is exerted through the lever 89, collar 88, rod 87, and arm 86 on the thread nipping lever when not restrained by the full peripheral portion of the cam-wheel 35, and the said cam-wheel has one or more notches 91 in its periphery so arranged that when the machine is about to be stopped the bell-crank lever 89 will be free to be so moved by the spring as to force the sliding rod 87 forward, and thus cause the thread-nipping plate 84 to grip the needlethread.
- the cam-wheel 35 of the present machine is of such construction as to be suitable to impart the proper movements to the work-holder for a machine for attaching fiat buttons to garments either by plain or by crossing overlying stitches.
- the cam-grooves 36 and 38 of the cam-wheel herein shown are made with a proper number of acting parts to make a desired number of stitches to sew on a button during each halfrevolution of the cam-wheel, and the stopmotion-trippingcams-or projections are likewise duplicated, as are also the acting parts of the cutter-operatingcam-groove37andthethreadnipper cams or depressions.
- the cams for moving the work-holder both lengthwise and crosswise of the machine are timed to act simultaneously, so that the-resulting horizontal movements ofthe work-holder will be diagonal; but if it be de sired to use the machine for makinga single set of button-attaching stitches, as iii sewing on a flat button having only two holes or having a bar across which the stitches are to be laid the movements of the work-holder lengthwise of the machine may be suspended by moving the contact-block 59 to the upper end of the lower arm of the lever 58, where it will be secured in a position coincident with the fulcrum of said lever, thus rendering the movements of the latter idle, and the lever 39will then, through the connections hereinbefore described, simply reciprocate the forward end of the work-holder back and forth transversely of the machine to make a single set of button-attaching stitches or to make a plain bar of overlying stitches.
- This half hitch when the stitch is tightened by the take-up in the usual manner will form a half-knot and by making a second stitch or a second concatenation of the needle and shuttle-threads with a twisted loop of needle-thread in the same hole in the work to make a second half-knot and then tightening the second half-knot to the first half-knot by the take-up, as before, the two threads will be tied together beneath the work in a hard knot 100, as diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 15.
- the arrows on the buttons shown in Figs.
- the Work or the needle must be moved in a particular horizontal direction with reference to the direction of movement of the shuttle just' before the formationof on what may be termed the front side of what may be termed the finishing stitches (or the stitches made by two or more descents of the needle in the same hole) are made.
- the last horizontal or shifting movement of the work prior to the finishing stitches should be in a certain direction, and it is necessary that the needle should descend at least twice in the same place, so as tobring at least two half-knots, which are formed by twisted loops of needle-thread around the shuttlethread, together without.
- the cam-track 85 in the cam-wheel 35 is provided just in front of the rests 361 with certain cam projections 362, which'will, through the connections hereinbefore described between said cam and the work-holder, effect the last horizontal movement of the work, in a certain desired and predetermined direction, as denoted by the arrow on the button in Fig. 11.
- This movement of the work just referred to will, as above stated, bring the section of needlethread running from the work to the eye of the needle on what maybe termed the front side of the needle, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 11, and thus causes the needle-loop to be twisted, as shown in Figs. 11 and 12.
- the needle 12 is preferably provided below its eye with a small spiral groove 101', which will retain the needle-thread on the front side of the needle at this second descent in the same 'hole in the work, so as to form the secondJialf-knot, which is to be tightened to the first half-knot in -order to tie the two threads together in a hard knot, as somewhat diagrammatically shown in Fig. 15.
- the take-up or threadcontroller 95 by which the-slack of the needle-thread is at all times drawn up or controlled and by which the stitches are tightened, will assist in retaining the needle-thread in the spiral groove 101 near the point of the needle after the thread has been once drawn into said groove and is not displaced therefrom by subsequent horizontal movement of the needle or work until the knotting operation is completed.
- cam portions 362 in front of p the rests 361 in the cam-wheel 35 will effect sewing two-eyed or bar buttons to garments by a single series of stitches, as hereinbefore described, or in making a single series of barringor tacking stitches.
- the 1 present invention produces a knotting mechanism by which the two threads of a lockstitch seam mafi be tied together in a hard knot at the completion of a group of a desired number of stitches and the two threads then be severed close to the under or back side of the work, thus not only making a neat finish, but so securely fastening the ends of the sewing-threads that they cannot get loose.
- a two-thread stitch-forming mechanism comprising an eyepointed needle, having a spiral groove between its eye and point, and a loop-taker, of work-moving, work-holding and stitch-tightening devices, a stop-motion device by means of which the machine is stopped when a group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, and automatic means, cooperating with the said spiral-grooved needle, for causing the said needle to present twisted loops of its thread to the said loop-taker through the same hole in the work a plurality of times in succession just before the machine is stopped, so as to form a succession of half-knots in the two threads of the lock-stitches, and which half-knots are drawn up into a hard knot by the stitchtighteningdevice.
- a two-thread lock-stitch sewing-machine the combination with a two-thread stitch-forming mechanism comprising an eye-' pointed needle, having a spiral groove between its eye and point, and a loop-taker, of workmoving, work-holding and stitch-tightening devices, a stop-motion device by means of which the machine is stopped when a group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, automatic means, cooperating 5.
- a two-thread lock-stitch sewing-mm chine the combination with a two-thread stitch-forming mechanism, comprising a needle and a cooperating loop-taker, of workholding and stitch-tightening devices, a stopmotion'device by means of which the machine is stopped when a' group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, and automatic means for imparting relative horizontal movements to the work and needle so that the latter will penetrate the work at two different separated points several times alternately. to form a group of unspaced stitches,
- said relative horizontal movement means being constructed to effect the last horizontal movement, prior to the stopping of the machine, in such directionfirelative to the direction of movement of said loop-taker, as to cause the needle to present a twisted loop of its thread to the said loop-taker through the same needle-puncture in the work a plurality of times in succession, to form a succession of halfknots which are tightened into a hard knot by the said stitch-tightening device.
- a two-thread lock-stitch sewing-machine comprising a needle and a cooperating loop-taker, of workholding and stitch-tightening devices, a stopmotion device by means of which the machine is stopped when a group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, automatic means for imparting relative horizontal movements to the work and needle so that the latter will penetrate the work at two different separated points several times alternately, to form a group of unspaced stitches, automatic means for suspending said relative horizontal movements of the needle and work before the machine is stopped, said relative horizontalniovement means being constructed to effect the last horizontal movement, prior to the stopping of the machine, in such direction, relative to the direction of movement of said loop-taker, as to cause the needle to present a twisted loop of its thread to the said looptaker'through the same needle-puncture in the work a plurality of times in succession, to'form a succession of half-knots. which are tightened into a hard
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Description
PATBNTED DEG. 13, 1904.
J. J; SULLIVAN. SEWING'MAGHINE FOR FORMING GROUPS OF STITGHES.
APPLICATION FILED JAN. 12, 1904- 5 SHEETS-SHEET 1.
1m MODEL. I
' PATENTED DEC. 18, 1904..
J. J. SULLIVAN. SEWING MAOHINE FOR FORMING GROUPS OF STITGHES.
APPLICATION FILED JAN-12. 1904.
5 BHEE'I'B-SHEET 2..
N0 MODEL.
RN Isl..."
PATENTED DEC. 13, 1904.
J. J. SULLIVAN. SEWING MACHINE FOR FORMING GROUPS OF STITGHW.
APPLICATION FILED JAN.
NO MODEL.
5 SHEET$-BHBET 3.
' PATENTED DEC. 13, 19 04.
J. J. SULLIVAN. SEWING MACHINE FOR FORMING GROUPS OF STITGHES.
APPLIGATION FILED JAN. 12, 1904.
.NO MODEL.
No. 777,564. b PATENTED DEC. 13, 1904. J. J. SULLIVAN.
SEWING MAUHINE FOR FORMING GROUPS OF STITGHES. APPLIOATION FILED JAN. 12 1904.
.110 MODEL. ESHEETS-SHBET 5 UNITED STATES Patented December 13, 1904.
PATENT OFFICE.
JOHN J. SULLIVAN, OE IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A COR- POEATIUN GE NEW JERSEY.
SEWHNGFMAGHINE FOR FORMING GROUPS OF'" STITGHES.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 777,564, dated December 13, 1904.
Application filed January 12, 1904. Serial No. 188,697. (No modeh) To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, .Ionn .I. SULLIVAbLa citizen of the United States, residing at Ipswich, in the county of Essex. and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines for Forming Groups of Stitches, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.
In sewing buttons to garments or in mechanically performing other sewing operations with two-thread sewing-machines forming groups of stitches, as in barring or tacking or stitching buttonholes, it is desirable to secure the last or severed ends of the threads, so as to positively prevent the loosening or 1 unraveling of the stitches, and this is par ticularly desirable and necessary in sewing on buttons where the attaching-stitches are subjected to considerablestrain and abrasions such as is liable to loosen them. It has heretofore been customary to some extent in sewing on buttons or in barring, tacking, &c., with two-thread sewing-machines to complete the operation of forming each grou p of stitches by makingtwo or three fastening-stitches which are formed in one place orneedle-punc ture by omitting the horizontal movements of the work or of the needle while these stitches are being made; but even these interlocked orinterlooped-fastening-stitches are liable when the garments in which they are formed'are in use to become loosened or unreveled, thus imperiling the safety or integchanges in the parts heretofore employed, as will hereinafter appear.
In carrying the invention into effect the last horizontal movement given to the work or the needle in making a group of stitches will be in such direction with reference to the direction of "movement of the shuttle as to cause the thread extending from the stitch last tightened into the work to'the eye of the needle to be so disposed that the loop thrown out thereby to be taken by the shuttle below the work will be twisted, and when the shut tle has passed and carried its own thread through such twisted loop of needle-thread the latter will form a half-hitch around the shuttle-thread, so as to form a half-knot with the two threads, and if two or three half-'- knots be made in one place or without mov ing the needle or the work horizontally betweentwo descents of the needle and be tightened together they will form a hard knot of the two threads. In other words, if a halfhitch of needle-thread be disposed about the shuttle-thread to forma half knot and then another half-hitch of the needle-thread be taken around the shuttle-thread to form another hal'f-knot the second half -knot when tightened to the first half-knot with no intervening material will form a hard knot of two threads, the ends of which next the work or material will extend from separated points in the material, so that the hard knot thus formed by the two threads at two needle descentscannot be pulled back through the needle-hole in the work or material, and the two threads may then be severed close to the work without imperiling the integrity of the completed group of stitches. The tightening together of the two half-knots to form the completed hard knot is eifected mechanically by the ordinary take-up or stitch-tightening device or devices of the sewing-machine.
The invention may be carried into effect on any suitable two-thread lock-stitch sewing machine equipped with means for shifting or feeding'the work beneath the needles or for shifting the needle relative to the work in forming. groups of stitches by moving the needle or work, as a group of stitches is about to be completed, in such direction as to cause the needle to twist its own thread twice at two view of the double cam devicefor tripping the stop-motion. Fig. 8 is a detail view of the stop-motion cam. Figs; 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,
l and 14 are somewhat diagrammatic views illustrating the method of carrying the invention into effect, and Fig. 15 is "a somewhat dia grammatic view illustrative of the completed result.
The stitch-forming mechanism of the ma chine (shown by the accompanying drawings) is that of a well-known form of Singer lockstitch machine equipped with means for. sewing buttons to fabrics by groups of stitches, each of which willhave a predetermined number, in that the machine isprovided with a stop-motion device which willbe tripped automatically when a desired number of stitches have been formed, the present machine being also equipped with an automatic thread-cutting device which will sever both threadsof the lock-stitch seam after said threads have been tied into a hard knot in accordance with the present invention. v
The present machine, which will now be generally described, comprises the needle 12, carried by a vertically-reciprocating needlebar 13, operated from a driving-shaft 14, journaled in the upper part of the arm' 15, and an oscillating shuttle '16, located below the workplate 17 and operatively connected in the usual manner with the said driving-shaft, which latter is in the present instance provided with a loose pulley 18 and a fast pulley 19, said fast pulley having an integral or rigidly-attached stop-motion cam 20. Pivotally mounted at its lower end ina projection 21 on a bracket 22 is a start and stop motion lever 23, provided with a belt-shifter '24 and with aplunger 25, pressed upward by a suitable spring, the said start and stop motionlever being acted on by acoil-spring 26, having a tend ency to force the upper end of said start and stop motion lever outward, but which tendency is restrained by a detent-lever 27, which serves to retain said start and stop motion lever in its inoperative position, as shown'in Flgs. 1 and 2. Mounted'in ears 28 of the I v bracket 22'is a bell-crank lever 29, the lower arm of which impinges against the said start and stop motion lever, so that by depressing the upper or outer arm of said bell-crank le- I ver the start and stop motion lever may be forced inward to start the machine when desired The start and stop motion lever is provided with a depending arm 30, having a slot or hole 31, the purpose of which will presently appear.-
The driving-shaft 14 is provided with a worm 32, meshing with a worm+wheel 33, fixed to a shaft 34,- to which is also" secured a cam-wheel 35, having in its outer face cam tracks or grooves 36 and 37 and in its inner face a cam track or groove 38. The cam-track 36 is en- "tered by a roller-stud at the upper end of a lever 39, fulcrumed in a bracket 40 and extending down through the work-plate 17. The lower end of the lever 39 is connected by a pitman 41 to a block 42, adjustable in a slot 44 of an arm 45 ofa bell-crank lever fulcrumed on a stud 46 and the shorter arm 47 of which is connected by a link'48 with a sliding plate 49 beneath the work-plate of the machine. To
the plate 49 is attached a plate 50, located above the work-plate of the machine. yokes forming the ends of the pitman 41 preferably have an adjustable connection consisting of a rod 411, oppositely threaded at its opposite ends and entering threaded sleeves 412,
with which said yokes are provided, so that by turning said rod by a wrench applied to its central rectangular portion 413 the working length ofsaid pitman may be varied for convenience of adjustment when the set-nuts 414 on said rod are loosened.
The work-holder comprises upper and lower members, between which-the work is yieldingly held and which are movable in any desired horizontal direction beneath the needle 12. In the present instance the upper member or presser-foot of the work-clamp is constructedas a button-holder 51, carried by an arm 52, attached to a block 53, which is in' turn secured to a plate or bar 54, resting on and loosely connected to the plate 50, and which plate or bar 54 carries the movable throatplate 55. This'movable throat-plate 55 is not essential, asfor many purposes the presser- The foot of the work-holder might rest upon the work lying directly on a stationary throatplate. The presser-foot of. the work-holder is forced yieldingly downward by a platespring 56. I Y Y The lower plate or bar 54 of the work-holder is provided at its rear end with a rigidly-attached pin or post 57, receivedin a recess or slot of a hollow or slotted lower arm of a lever 58, fulcrumed or pivoted on the bracket 40, and the upper arm of which is provided with a pin or roller-stud entering the camgroove 38 of the cam-wheel35. Vertically adjustable on the pin or post 57 between the flanges of the lower hollow or slotted armof the lever 58 is a contact-block 59, held in any desired position of adjustment by a set-screw 60. By varying the vertical position of the adjustable contact-block 59 the extent of movement imparted to the work-holder lengthwise of the machine by thelever 58 will be varied,
and by changing theposition of the adjustable block 42 in the slotted arm of the bell-crank. lever 45 47'the extent of movement of the workholder crosswise of the machine will likewise be varied, as will be understood.
The present machine is preferably provided with a thread-cuttingmechanism essentially the same in principle as that shown and described by United States Patent No. 702,832,
' the lower end of a lever 7,0, pivotally mounted on a bracket 71 and provided at its upper end with a pin or roller-stud entering the camgroove 37 in the outer face-of the cam-wheel 35. The sliding bar 67 carries at its rear end a pin or roller-stud 72, engaged by the forked arm 73 of abell-crank lever, the other arm, 7 42', of which is provided with a pin or block 75, having a stud 7 6, engaged by a spring 7 7,
which has a tendency to press the said pin or block 75 outward toward the depending arm 30 on the start and stop motion lever 23.
The two levers and 7 3 74 serve through the connections above described to impart what may be termed a two-stage movement to the thread-cutters from the cam-groove 37 and the stop-motion device in a manner somewhat similar to that described in United States Patent No. 7 02,832,abovereferred to,although the first-stage movement of the thread-cutters imparted thereto from the said cam-groove is in the present instance a two-step movement. Thus when a group of stitches is nearly completed the portion 371 of the. cam-groove 37 will act on the pin, or roller-stud at the upper end of the lever 70, and thus cause a partial forward movement to be imparted to the thread cutters or knives 61 62 to cause the finger of the cutter 61 to engage the shuttlethread, and at the next succeeding stitch the said knives or cutters will be farther advanced by the portion 372 of the said cam-groove to cause the finger of the cutter 62 to enter a loop of needle-thread. After these two steps of the first-stage movement have been effected the second or cutting stage movement of the knives or cutters, and which is a quick or sudden movement, Will be imparted thereto from the stop-motion lever, as in the machine of the patent referred to, as will presently appear. The first step of the first-stage move ment of the sliding bar 67, operated by the lever 70, moves the bell-crank lever 73 7 4 far block nearly into register with the hole or 23; but before the second step of the firststage movement of the sliding bar 67 occurs the said stop-motion lever will be tripped, as will presently be described, and the arm 30 will then engage the spring-pressed pin or block 75 and force it inward on the arm 74,, so that when the second step of the first-stage movement of the lever 70 and of the sliding bar'67 operated therefrom is effected the lever 7 3 74 will be moved to bring the said block or pin 75 into register with the hole 31 of the arm 30, and into which hole said block or pin will be forced by its spring, thereby coupling the cutting mechanism with the stop-motion device.
' The cam-wheel 35 is provided on its inner face with a cam projection or projections 43 to trip the detent-lever 27 when the machine is to be stopped. When the said detent-lever is tripped, so as to be disengaged from the start and stop motion lever, the spring 26 forces the upper end of'said start and stop motion lever outward. and thus brings the spring-pressed plunger 25 beneath the cam 20 on the fast pulley 19. Adjacent to said cam is a notch 78, beyond which is a tappet 79. When the plunger enters the notch 78 and is engaged by the tappet 79, a limited movement transversely of the machine will be imparted to the start and stop motion lever against the pressure of a buffer-spring 80 in a sleeve 81 on the bracket 22 and acting on a pin or rod 83, forced against said lever by said spring. This transverse or lateral movement of the start and stop motion lever causes the arm 30 thereon to impart the final or threadsevering movement to the thread cutters through the bell-crank lever 73 T4: and other connections above described.
Connected with the sector-gear 63, which operates the thread-cutters 61 62, is a movable thread-controller consisting of a thin curved plate-spring 92, which presses upward against the under side of the throat-plate 93 and which serves to nip the end of the needlethread against the throat-plate after the said thread has been severed and to hold said end until it is fastened in the work by the formation of twoor three stitches of the next group, as fully set forth in the application of Charles -M. Horton, filed January 12, 1904:, Serial No.
by the lower arm of a lever 85, carried by said needle-bar and arranged to be engaged slot 31 in the arm 30 on the stop-motion lever above its pivot or fulcrum by an arm 86 at the forward end of a sliding rod 87, having near its rear end a collar 88, engaged by the lower arm of a bell-crank lever 89, the upper arm of which is yieldingly forced against the periphery of the cam-Wheel 35 by a spring 90, coiled about the pivot of said lever. The stress of thesaid spring 90 is exerted through the lever 89, collar 88, rod 87, and arm 86 on the thread nipping lever when not restrained by the full peripheral portion of the cam-wheel 35, and the said cam-wheel has one or more notches 91 in its periphery so arranged that when the machine is about to be stopped the bell-crank lever 89 will be free to be so moved by the spring as to force the sliding rod 87 forward, and thus cause the thread-nipping plate 84 to grip the needlethread.
The cam-wheel 35 of the present machine is of such construction as to be suitable to impart the proper movements to the work-holder for a machine for attaching fiat buttons to garments either by plain or by crossing overlying stitches. For forming crossing stitches the cam- grooves 36 and 38 of the cam-wheel herein shown are made with a proper number of acting parts to make a desired number of stitches to sew on a button during each halfrevolution of the cam-wheel, and the stopmotion-trippingcams-or projections are likewise duplicated, as are also the acting parts of the cutter-operatingcam-groove37andthethreadnipper cams or depressions. As the workclamp or work-holder has diagonal movements imparted to it in making crossing stitches in sewing on flat buttons, the cams for moving the work-holder both lengthwise and crosswise of the machine are timed to act simultaneously, so that the-resulting horizontal movements ofthe work-holder will be diagonal; but if it be de sired to use the machine for makinga single set of button-attaching stitches, as iii sewing on a flat button having only two holes or having a bar across which the stitches are to be laid the movements of the work-holder lengthwise of the machine may be suspended by moving the contact-block 59 to the upper end of the lower arm of the lever 58, where it will be secured in a position coincident with the fulcrum of said lever, thus rendering the movements of the latter idle, and the lever 39will then, through the connections hereinbefore described, simply reciprocate the forward end of the work-holder back and forth transversely of the machine to make a single set of button-attaching stitches or to make a plain bar of overlying stitches.
a I i Y 777,564
and 38 in the cam 35, as has already been described. When the needle occupies a position relative to the button such as is shown in Fig. 9 and is descending for the formation of the next stitch, the section of needle-thread running from the last stitch fastened in the work to the eye of theneedle will extend in adirection which for want of a better. term may be called rearward of the needle, as denoted in dotted lines in Fig. 9, so that the needle-thread will be presented to the shuttle or loop-taker moving from the right toward the left, Figs. 9 and 11, in a plain loop, a's'denoted in Figs. 9 and 10. When, however, the
needle occupies apositi'on relative to the button such as is shown in Fig. 11 and is descending to form the next stitch, the section of needlethread running from the work to the eye of I the needle will extend in front of the needle, as denoted by dotted lines in Fig. 11, so that the loop of thread thrown out by the needle will be twisted, as shown in Figs. 11 and 12, and when the shuttle-thread 97 has been passed through such twisted loop of needle-thread the latter will form a half-hitch around the shuttle-thread, as diagrammaticallyillustrated in Fig. 13. This half hitch when the stitch is tightened by the take-up in the usual manner will form a half-knot and by making a second stitch or a second concatenation of the needle and shuttle-threads with a twisted loop of needle-thread in the same hole in the work to make a second half-knot and then tightening the second half-knot to the first half-knot by the take-up, as before, the two threads will be tied together beneath the work in a hard knot 100, as diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 15. The arrows on the buttons (shown in Figs. 9 and 11) denote the directions of the last movements of the work to bring the latter into the positions relative to the needle shown, respectively, in the-two views, and it will therefore be understood that in order to bring the section of needle-thread extending from the work to the eye of the 'needle to the position shown by dotted lines in Fig. 11, or
the needle, the Work or the needle must be moved in a particular horizontal direction with reference to the direction of movement of the shuttle just' before the formationof on what may be termed the front side of what may be termed the finishing stitches (or the stitches made by two or more descents of the needle in the same hole) are made. In order, therefore, to tie the two threads of a lock-stitch seam together in a hard knot in the manner just described, it is preferable that the last horizontal or shifting movement of the work prior to the finishing stitches should be in a certain direction, and it is necessary that the needle should descend at least twice in the same place, so as tobring at least two half-knots, which are formed by twisted loops of needle-thread around the shuttlethread, together without. intervening material, so that such half-knots may be drawn up into a hard knot. To this end the cam-track 85 in the cam-wheel 35 is provided just in front of the rests 361 with certain cam projections 362, which'will, through the connections hereinbefore described between said cam and the work-holder, effect the last horizontal movement of the work, in a certain desired and predetermined direction, as denoted by the arrow on the button in Fig. 11. This movement of the work just referred to will, as above stated, bring the section of needlethread running from the work to the eye of the needle on what maybe termed the front side of the needle, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 11, and thus causes the needle-loop to be twisted, as shown in Figs. 11 and 12.
To insure that the needle-thread will still be retained on the front side of the needle at its next descent in the same place in the work in forming the finishing stitches, the needle 12 is preferably provided below its eye with a small spiral groove 101', which will retain the needle-thread on the front side of the needle at this second descent in the same 'hole in the work, so as to form the secondJialf-knot, which is to be tightened to the first half-knot in -order to tie the two threads together in a hard knot, as somewhat diagrammatically shown in Fig. 15. The take-up or threadcontroller 95, by which the-slack of the needle-thread is at all times drawn up or controlled and by which the stitches are tightened, will assist in retaining the needle-thread in the spiral groove 101 near the point of the needle after the thread has been once drawn into said groove and is not displaced therefrom by subsequent horizontal movement of the needle or work until the knotting operation is completed.
The locked portions of the needle and shuttle threads, when the tensions of the two threads are properly adjusted, occur in the work so that the needle-thread of the stitches shows only on the upper side of the work and the shuttle-thread only on the lower side of the work; but the knot which is tied in the two threads extending toward each other from two separated places in the work will appear on the lower side of the work. (See Fig. 15.) For clearness of illustration the stitches in Figs. 9, 11, and 15 are shown as being somewhat spread out, although in practice the stitches of each series are practically unspaced and will overlie each.other more or less, as will be understood. Also for clearness of illustration only the last-formed reinforcing-stitches of the group are shown in Figs. 10, 12, and 14, the preceding stitches of the group being omitted. The cam portions 362 in front of p the rests 361 in the cam-wheel 35 will effect sewing two-eyed or bar buttons to garments by a single series of stitches, as hereinbefore described, or in making a single series of barringor tacking stitches.
When the two threads of the lock-stitch seam have been tied together in a hard knot, as has been described, the two threads are severed below the work by the automatic threadcutting mechanism of the machine and the latter is automatically stopped by the stop-motion device, all as hereinbefore set forth. it will thus be understoodthat without adding any parts to a sewing-machine, which maybe of well-known construction, and by only such slight changes of the old parts as do not materially add to the cost of the machine the 1 present invention produces a knotting mechanism by which the two threads of a lockstitch seam mafi be tied together in a hard knot at the completion of a group of a desired number of stitches and the two threads then be severed close to the under or back side of the work, thus not only making a neat finish, but so securely fastening the ends of the sewing-threads that they cannot get loose.
The invention is not to be understood as being limited to the details of construction by which it is carried into effectherein shown and described or to the particular form of groupstitch sewing-machine in which it is herein illustrated as being embodied, as these may vary widely without departing from the essence of the invention. Also other means than the spiral groove near the pivot of the needle and the direction of the last movement of the work prior to the finishing stitches maybe employed to effect the automatic knot-tying operation.
Having thus described my invention, I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent-- 1. in a two-thread lock-stitch sewing-machine, the'combination with stitch-forming devices, comprising a needle and a loop-taker, of work-holding and stitch-tightening'devices, means for imparting relative horizontal movements to the needle and work, a stop-motion device by the assistance of which the machine is stopped when a group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, automatic means for causing the said needle to present a twisted loop of its thread to the said loop-taker a plurality of times in succession just before the machine is automatically stopped, and automatic means whereby the relative horizontal movements-of the needle and work are suspended during the time when the said twisted loops of needle-thread are presented to the said loop-taker, so that the said needle will descend through the same hole in the work a plurality of times in succession to form at least two half-knots in the two threads of the lock-stitches. and which halfknots are drawn up into a hard knot by the stitch-tightening device.
2. In a two-thread lock-stitch sewing-mew chine, the combination with stitch-forming devices, comprising a needle and a loop-taker,
device by the assistance of which the machine is stopped when a group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, automatic means for causing the said needle to present a twisted loop of its thread to the said loop-taker a plurality of times in succession just before the machine is automatically stopped, automatic means whereby the relative horizontal movements of the needle and work are suspended during the time when the said twisted loops of needle-thread are pre sented to the said loop-taker, so that the said needle will descend through the same hole in the work a pluralityof times in succession to form at least two half-knots in the two threads of the lock-stitches, and which half-knots are drawn up into a hard knot by the stitch-tightening device, and automatic means for severing both of the threads below the work adjacent to said knot.
3. In a itwo-threadlock-stitch sewing machine, the combination with' a two-thread stitch-forming mechanism comprising an eyepointed needle, having a spiral groove between its eye and point, and a loop-taker, of work-moving, work-holding and stitch-tightening devices, a stop-motion device by means of which the machine is stopped when a group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, and automatic means, cooperating with the said spiral-grooved needle, for causing the said needle to present twisted loops of its thread to the said loop-taker through the same hole in the work a plurality of times in succession just before the machine is stopped, so as to form a succession of half-knots in the two threads of the lock-stitches, and which half-knots are drawn up into a hard knot by the stitchtighteningdevice.
4. In a two-thread lock-stitch sewing-machine, the combination with a two-thread stitch-forming mechanism comprising an eye-' pointed needle, having a spiral groove between its eye and point, and a loop-taker, of workmoving, work-holding and stitch-tightening devices, a stop-motion device by means of which the machine is stopped when a group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, automatic means, cooperating 5. In a two-thread lock-stitch sewing-mm chine, the combination with a two-thread stitch-forming mechanism, comprising a needle and a cooperating loop-taker, of workholding and stitch-tightening devices, a stopmotion'device by means of which the machine is stopped when a' group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, and automatic means for imparting relative horizontal movements to the work and needle so that the latter will penetrate the work at two different separated points several times alternately. to form a group of unspaced stitches,
and automatic means for suspending said relative horizontal movements of the needle and work before the machine is stopped, said relative horizontal movement means being constructed to effect the last horizontal movement, prior to the stopping of the machine, in such directionfirelative to the direction of movement of said loop-taker, as to cause the needle to present a twisted loop of its thread to the said loop-taker through the same needle-puncture in the work a plurality of times in succession, to form a succession of halfknots which are tightened into a hard knot by the said stitch-tightening device.
6. In a two-thread lock-stitch sewing-machine, the combination with a two-thread stitch-forming mechanism, comprising a needle and a cooperating loop-taker, of workholding and stitch-tightening devices, a stopmotion device by means of which the machine is stopped when a group of a predetermined number of stitches has been formed, automatic means for imparting relative horizontal movements to the work and needle so that the latter will penetrate the work at two different separated points several times alternately, to form a group of unspaced stitches, automatic means for suspending said relative horizontal movements of the needle and work before the machine is stopped, said relative horizontalniovement means being constructed to effect the last horizontal movement, prior to the stopping of the machine, in such direction, relative to the direction of movement of said loop-taker, as to cause the needle to present a twisted loop of its thread to the said looptaker'through the same needle-puncture in the work a plurality of times in succession, to'form a succession of half-knots. which are tightened into a hard knot by the said stitchtightening device, and automatic means for severing both of the threads below the work adjacent to said hard knot.
In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.
JOHN J': SULLIVAN.
Witnesses: I
HENRY J. MILLER, HENRY KORNEMANN.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US18869704A US777564A (en) | 1904-01-12 | 1904-01-12 | Sewing-machine for forming groups or stitches. |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US18869704A US777564A (en) | 1904-01-12 | 1904-01-12 | Sewing-machine for forming groups or stitches. |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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US777564A true US777564A (en) | 1904-12-13 |
Family
ID=2846049
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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US18869704A Expired - Lifetime US777564A (en) | 1904-01-12 | 1904-01-12 | Sewing-machine for forming groups or stitches. |
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US (1) | US777564A (en) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3478708A (en) * | 1964-12-15 | 1969-11-18 | Durkopp Ag | Knot-tying mechanism for sewing machine |
DE19722504C1 (en) * | 1997-05-30 | 1998-09-03 | Duerkopp Adler Ag | Buttonhole sewing machine with cutter(s) for upper and lower threads |
-
1904
- 1904-01-12 US US18869704A patent/US777564A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3478708A (en) * | 1964-12-15 | 1969-11-18 | Durkopp Ag | Knot-tying mechanism for sewing machine |
DE19722504C1 (en) * | 1997-05-30 | 1998-09-03 | Duerkopp Adler Ag | Buttonhole sewing machine with cutter(s) for upper and lower threads |
US5931106A (en) * | 1997-05-30 | 1999-08-03 | Durkopp Adler Aktiengesellschaft | Buttonhole sewing machine, with a needle-thread clamp and cutter |
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