US731115A - Dressmaker's guide. - Google Patents

Description

No. 731,115. Y PATENTED JUNE 16, 1903. L. w. MORGAN.

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UNITED STATES I-atented June 16, 1903.

LUCY \V. MORGAN, OF AUBURN, MAINE.

DRESSIVIAKERS GUIDE.

SFECIFICATION forming part Of Letters Patent NO. 731,115, dated June 16, 1903.

Application filed July 28, 1902. Serial No- 117,282. (No model.)

T all /2/0727, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, LUoY W. MORGAN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Auburn, in the county of 'Androscoggin, State of Maine, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Dressmakers Guides; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to improvements in dressmakers guides, and is designed to be used in drafting a waist-lining or a pattern from which a lining or waist is to be cut. It is designed to be used in connection with certain measurements made upon the body of the person to be fitted.

It consists of a square having the standard scale marked on the arms thereof in combination with certain curved edges at the outer extremities of the arms and certain special scales and designator-points marked thereon.

In the drawings, Figure l is a plan View of myimproved guide, showing the side having the scales used in obtaining the pattern of the body of the waist; and Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same, showing the side having the scales used in obtaining the pattern of the sleeve.

On the inside of the long arm of the square are two curves, the outer, A, being used for forming the darts and the inner, B, for forming the back edge of top of upper piece of the sleeve. On the inside of the short arm of the square is a curve 0, used for drafting the seams of the pattern or lining of the waist, and on the outside is a curve D for drafting the front edge of top of upper piece of sleeve. For convenience I call the side of the square shown in Fig. 1 the front side and the side shown in Fig. 2 the back side.

The accuracy of the fit obtained depends largely upon the exactness of the measurements taken upon the body, and for convenience in obtaining these measurements I use two straps or markers passing horizontally around the body, one close up under the arms and the other around the waist, pressed well down upon the hips, and measure in vertical and parallel directions relative to said straps. The measurements above referred to are to be used in connection with a series of scales marked upon the front and back sides of the guide, the scales on the front side being used in forming the body of the waist and those on the back side, togetherwith points marked X and Y, in forming the sleeve.

This square or guide is twenty-two and one-half inches on long arm and seventeen inches on short arm. The longer arm is onehalf inch wide at the end. The inner edge is curved slightly outward a length of thirteen and one-half inches, the Widest part being about two inches. From inside of corner to a distance of seven and three-eighths inches it is straight and one and three-eighths inches wide. The short arm has its inner edge straight for seven and three-eighths inches from corner and is one and three-quarters inches wide. The remainder is an inward curve C, while the arm widens from one and three-quarters inches to two and three-eighths inches at end. At the extremity of the short arm on the outer edge is an irregular curve D about three and three quarters inches long. Each arm has marked thereon the standard scale of. inches and subdivisions thereof, both beginning at corner with figures in center, leaving edges for scales. Scale 1 is used in obtaining the neck and is 10- catedon the lower outer edge of long arm starting at corner. It is composed of fifths of inches and beginning with fourth division is numbered from 6 to 22%. These numbers indicate corresponding ones in the meas urement of the neck. Scale 2 is used in obtaining remaining portion of bust or chest measure on both back and front beyond chestmeasure between arms in front and width of back and meeting directly beneath the arm in the pattern or garment. This scale is composed of fourths of inches located on the outer edge of long arm beginning eight inches in from corner, is five inches long, and numbered from ,O to 20, these indicating inches of the chest-measure. Scale 3 is used in obtaining size of waist on the front from back edge of second. dart to underarm seam. This scale is located on the outer edge of long arm, starting at the end, extends eleven and one-half inches with divisions of one inch. It is numbered beginning at one-half inch from end, with 2 and runs up to 13 and indicatesinches of waist measurement. Scale 4 is used in obtaining size of hip four and one-half inches below waist-line on all pieces of waist. It is composed of divisions of onefourth of an inch, which indicate inches of the hip measurement and show the relation between size of waist and hips. This scale is located on the inner edges of both arms, starting at inner corner, extends seven and one-fourth inches each way, and is numbered from 33 to 60, the same on each arm. Scale 4 is located on both arms for convenience in obtaining measurements of certain of the waist-piecesas, for example, the under-arm pieces andside-form pieces. Scale 5 is used in obtaining darts in front of pattern and in connection with scale 3 determines size of pattern at waist-line. It is located on outer edge of short arm, starting at corner and extends seven inches. Its divisions are one-half inch, and it is numbered from 1 to 14:. These indicate inches in the dilference between bust and waist measurements on front piece of pattern. Scale 6 is used in obtaining size of waist on the back and under-arm pieces. It is located on the outer edge of short arm, begins five and onehalf inches from corner, is six inches long, and its divisions are one-fourth of an inch and numbered from 18 to 42.. These indicate inches of the waist measurements. These scales and the regular square complete the guide for body of waist. V

The scales for sleeve-pattern on opposite side of square contain two sets of scales relating to width of pieces of sleeve, the one on long arm to upper part and on short arm to under part. The divisions of all these scales are one-half inch and all indicate inches of the measurements around the arm of person. Scale 7 on long arm is located on outer edge. It begins seven and one-fourth inches from end and extends five and three-eighths inches. Its divisions are numbered from 9 to 20, indicating inches in measurement around upper arm. Scale 8 of this set is located in onehalf inch from outer edge. It begins five inches from end and extends four inches. Its divisions are numbered from 7 to 15, indicating inches of the measurement around elbow; Scale 9, the last of this set, is located in one inch from edge. It begins three and one-fourth inches from end and extends two and three-fourths inches. Its divisions are numbered from 4 to 9%, indicating inches of the measurement around hand. Scale 10, the first of the set on short arm, is located on outer edge. It begins three inches from corner and extends five and three-eighths inches. Its divisions are numbered 8 to 20, and indicate inches of the measurement around upper arm. Scale 11 of this set is located in one-half inch from edge. It begins two inches from corner and is two and one-half inches long. Its divisions are numbered from 7 to 12, indicating inches of the measurement around elbow. Scale 12, the last of this set, is located in one inch from edge and begins one inch from corner and is two inches long. Its divisions are numbered from 4 to 8 and indicate inches of measurement around hand.

A point located six inches from corner onlong arm on the back side (marked Y) indicates highest point of upper piece of sleeve. A point two and five-eighths inches from corner (marked X) indicates highest point of under piece of sleeve and highest point of the back side seam of the upper piece of sleeve.

Having thus described my invention and its use, I claim A dressmakers guide consisting of a common square, the long arm having at its extremity on the inside the curved edges A and B and the short arm having at its extremity on the inside the curved edge (3 and on the outside the curved edge D, the front side of the square being provided with the usual standard scale of inches and subdivisions thereof and with the minor scales 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for determining the body measurements and the back side being provided with the minor scales 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for determining the sleeve measurements and points X and Y for determining the highest point of the upperand under sleeve pieces respectively,substantially as and for'the purposes set forth.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature, in presence of two witnesses, this 26th day of July, 1902.

LUCY W. MORGAN.

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