US613473A - Sewing-machine - Google Patents

Description

. 8 9 l V. n N d e n e .t a P .r 3 7 1 B 6 n N SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 17, 1896. Reiaewed Mar. 26, 1898.)

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No. (3,473. Patented Nov. 1,1898. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

Ai ncafion-m d Se t. 17, 1896. Renewed Man-88, 1898.) (No Model.) -6 Sheets-Sheet 2'.

. Patented Nov. l, I898. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE. (Applivation filed Sept. 17, 1896. Renewed Mar. 26, 1898.)

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(N0 Model.)

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No. 6|3,473. Patented Nov. 1, I898.

F. H. RICHARDS. sgwmq MACHINE.

(Application filed Sepig. 1 7,-1B96. Renewed Mar. 28, 1898.)

(No Model.)

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No. 6|3.473. Patented Nov. l, I898.

F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 17, 1896. Renewed Mar. 26, 1898.)

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Witnesses, jflaenioh' No. 6|3,473. Patented Nov. l I898. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filad Sept. 1-7, 1896. Renewed Mar. 26, 1898.)

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(No Model.)

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PATENT CFFICE.

SEWING-MACHINE;

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 613,473, dated November 1, 1898 Application filed $eptember 17, 1896. Renewed March 26, 1898. Serial No. 675,334. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known thatI, FRANCIS H. RICHARDS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Hartford, in the county of Hartford and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful lmprovements in Sewing-Machines of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to sewing-machines, the object being to provide an improved machine adapted to produce a double seam of a peculiar kind.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved sewing-machine in which the stitch-forming mechanism will comprise a series of alternately-acting needle mechanisms and a rotatable looper mechanism having a series of three or more loop-takers all operative in thesame direction.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved sewing-machine provided with an improved looper mechanism having a series of loop-takers, such series comprising a plurality of sets of oppositely-disposed looptakers and each set comprising two or more loop-takers operative in connection with one needle of the series of needle mechanisms and the loop-takers of one set being operative in alternation with the loop-takers of the other set.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved rotatable looper having two sets of oppositely-disposed loop-takers, each set comprising a plurality of loop-takers all operative in connection with a pair of alternately-operable needles, whereby a thread-.

loop of one needle will be engaged by the looper and be carried entirely around the same to engage a thread-loop of the other needle to thereby form a chain-stitch in which each loop of the series of loops will extend through a companion loop or in which the alternating loops of the two lines of loops will extend one through the other and whereby a double seam will be formed in which the alternating stitches or loops will be made of different threads and in which the fabric will have on one side thereof two relatively remote rows of parallel stitches and on its opposite side a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed stitches or loops extending crosswise of the two rows of parallel stitches, the bight of thereof in horizontal section.

each loop engaging its companion loop intermediate its ends.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine having an improved feed mechanism and having or embodying an improved means for adjusting the same.

In the drawings accompanying and forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a plan view of one construction of the machine, a part thereof being broken away and showing a piece of work having this improved double seam. Fig. 2 is a front view thereof partly broken away and partly in section. Fig. 3 is an end view of the machine looking toward the right in Fig. 2, parts being shown in dotted lines and the presser-foot bar being broken away. Fig. 4is an opposite end view of the machine looking toward the left in Fig. 2, partly broken away and partly in section. Fig. 5 is a plan of a part of the bedplate, with the upper part of the machine broken away, and showing parts of the mechanism in dotted lines and having a part Fig. 6 is a votical sectional view of a portion of the 1 chine-head, showing the needle-bars and needles in positions relatively to each other and relatively to a portion of the rotatable looper, one of the needles being shown in front of the other and one on each side of said looper. Fig. 7 is a top side view of a piece of work with this improved form of stitch. Fig. 8 is. an under side view of the same, showing the diagonally-disposed loops. Fig. 9, is a transverse sectional view in line b b, Fig. 7. Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic View showing the relative movements of the needles. Fig. 11 is a view of the cam device for actuating the needle-bars and needles, the rolls of the needlebar levers being in their starting positions and corresponding with the lines of movements of the needles, as shown in Fig. 10. Fig. 12 is a cross-sectional view in line 0 c, Fig. 11, looking. toward the right. Fig. 13 is likewise a cross-sectional view in line d cl,

Fig. 11, looking toward the left. Figs. 14 to 37, inclusive, are a series of detail views illustrating the various positions of the needles and looper and the manner of forming the improved seam and stitch hereinafter more particularly set forth; and Fig. 38 is a longitudinal sectional view of a portion of the feed mechanism, illustrating more clearly the manner of adjusting the same.

Similar characters designate like parts in all the figures of the drawings.

As a preface to a description of this improved sewing-machine it will be understood that while it is shown adapted to form a chainstitch it may also be used, if desired, to form a lock chain-stitch by employing a rotatable looper carrying a bobbin, and it will also be understood that the supporting parts of this improved machine and the various details of mechanism may be widely varied without departing from the scope of this invention.

This improved sewing-machine comprises in a general way needle mechanism (designated generally by A) embodying a series of alternately-operable needles; looper mechanism (designated in a general way by B) embodying a series of sets of oppositely-disposed loop-takers, such series comprising three or more loop-takers, and which needle mechanism and looper mechanism combined constitute stitch-forming mechanism (designated in a general way by having or embodying means for actuating the same, feed mechanism (designated in a general way by D) likewise having or embodying suitable means for actuating and adjusting the same, and looptake-np mechanism, (designated in a general way by The framework of the machine, which may be of any suitable construction adapted for the purpose, is herein shown, however, in its preferred form, comprising a horizontal bedplate 2, having a series of three downwardlyextending brackets 3, 4, and for supporting the mechanism hereinafter set forth, a removable throat-plate 7 at one end thereof, an upright support 8 at the opposite end thereof, and a horizontal support 0 joined thereto, said supports 8 and 0 forming the arm 10 of the machine, which is herein shown as a skeleton arm, at the outer end of which is the needle-bar-receiving head 11, disposed in vertical alinement with the throatplate 7.

The needle mechanism A, which forms a part of the stitch-forming mechanism 0, in its preferred construction herein shown and described, comprises a pair of needle bars or carriers cc and y, each adapted to receive a needle, as so and 3 which may be secured thereto in any suitable way, such as by clamping devices 17, and which needle bars or carriers are mounted for reciprocation in bearings in the machine-head 11 in any desired way, herein shown, however, disposed side by side, and therefore one in front of the other. The needle-bars are preferably provided at their upper ends with suitable threadtake-up devices, herein shown as downwardlyextending arms 18 and 18, having thread-receiving loops 1!) and 19 at their free ends. As one means for operating these needle-bars, and thereby reciprocating the needles alternately, and which means may constitute a part of the needle mechanism, if desired, and therefore a part of the stitch-forming mechanism, each needle bar is connected with a cam member or cylinder, although other devices may be employed, by means of suitable levers. This cylinder 20 has a pair of similar cam- grooves 21 and 22 and is mounted 011 a shaft 23, journaled for rotation in suitable bearings 24 and 25 of the framework, and is herein shown adapted to receive motion from the usual driving-pulley 25 and hand-wheel 26, disposed on the outer end of the shaft 23. This cam-cylinder is preferably so formed that it comprises two members a and c, which are adjustably secured in position by means of clamping devices, such as screws 27, whereby such members are rotatively adjustable.

Supported on a transverse stud 28, carried by the arm 10 of the machine-frame, are the needle-bar-actuating levers comprising two independent levers 29 and 30, each consisting of a pair of arms operatively connected with the cam-cylinder at one end and with a needle-bar at the other end to impart motion to the needles, and for this purpose the arm 31 of one lever, as 29, has its outer end pivotally secured to one needle-bar, as a), by a suitable pivot device or stud 32, the machinehead being provided with a slot 33 to permit the proper reciprocation of such stud. The opposite end of this arm 31 is joined to a hub journaled on the transverse stud 28, which hub also carries the downwardly-extending arm 3% of said lever, which has its free end provided with an antifrietion bearing or roll working in one of the cam-grooves, as 21, of the cylinder 20. The other lever, 30, is substantially similar, one of its arms, as 35, having its outer end pivotally secured to the other needle-bar y, a similar slot 33 being formed in the opposite side of the head 11 for this purpose and its opposite end beingjoincd to a hub journaled on the stud 28, and which hub carries the downwardlyextending arm 36 of said lever, likewise having its lower end provided with an antifriction device or roll working in the other cam-groove 22 of the cam-cylinder.

Owing to the particular construction of each lever it is in the nature of a bell-crank lever journaled, as above stated, for oscillatory movement on the transverse stud 28, and which is herein shown having ahead 28 and a nut 28 for securing said actuating-levers in position, one preferably at each side of the skeleton arm 10.

The cam- grooves 21 and 22 of the cylinder 20 are so formed and disposed one in front of the other and timed relatively to each other that each needle will be alternately actuated to permit the looper to receive a loop, and both needles will be above the fabric at certain predetermined periods in the operation of the machine and after each descent of one needle to thereby permit the feed of the fabric, as hereinafter more fully set forth.

Mounted within the machine-head 11 in any desired way is the usual presser-foot or fabric-clamp 40. In the preferred form thereof,

however, herein shown the head has a pair of the presser-bar for raising and lowering the same to thereby release and engage the fabric. The presser-foot 46, which may be secured to the bar in any desired way, is preferably somewhat Wider than the usual presser-foot of single-needle machines and is preferably provided with a pair of parallel slots, one for the passage of each of the two needles.

The looper mechanism B, which is somewhat similar in operation to that set forth in my application filed September 5, 1896, Serial N 0. 604,993, in its preferred construction shown, comprises a disk-shaped member 50, having adjacent to its periphery a series of 1oop-takers, preferably in the nature of hooks 51, for engaging the loops of the needlethreads and is supported below the bed or throat-plate in any desired manner for rotary movement. In the form shown, however, this improved looper is peripherally support-. ed for rotary movement by a series of rolls 52, herein illustrated as six in number, rotatably mounted upon adjustable roll-carriers 53, which are herein shown comprising studs having eccentrically-disposed shanks 54, extending through transverse recesses in the bracket 3 and provided with-nuts 55 at the ends thereof, by means of which said studs are adjustably secured to the bracket and by means of which also the positions of the supporting-rolls may be changed relatively to the periphery of the looper which they support. These supporting-rolls may be of duplicate construction and interchangeable one with the other and will in practice he preferably so disposed relatively to the periphery of the looper that at no time in the rotation thereof will all the loop-takers be contiguous to all of such rolls and also so disposed as to permita clear unobstructed space at the upper edge of the looper contiguous to the throat-plate in a manner that will be clearly understood on inspection of the drawings. These supportingrolls will in practice be peripherally grooved to receive and engage the peripheral track of the looper 50, which will be preferably wedge shape in cross-section.

The looper 50 is provided, as above stated, with a series of loop-takers 51 for engaging the needle-threads and which in the preferred form shown comprises a series of hooks formed in the periphery thereof and whichseries of hooks comprehend two sets an and a, each set comprising three hooks, as m, m, and m and n, M, and m and disposed one set on each side of the peripheral line of the looper,

whereby they will face in opposite directions relatively to each other and also so disposed that one hook, as m, of the set m will be adjacent to, but in front of, a hook, as M, of the opposite set M, whereby the series of oppositely-facing hooks are arranged in pairs, thereby forming a set of three pairs of'hooks operative alternately with each other and all of said hooks being operative in the same direction, as hereinafter more fully set forth. In the present construction these loop-takers or hooks are formed by recesses or spaces 57 and 57 extending transversely through the looper adjacent to the track portion thereof and each pair of hooks of the series having its loop-engaging faces or points extending in opposite directions-that is to say, the hook m, formed by one recess 57, will have its loopengaging face or point adjacent to one side of the peripheral line of the looper, while its companion hook, as 01 formed by a similar recess 57, will have its loop-engaging face or point adjacent to the opposite side of the peripheral line of the looperwhereby all the hooks of the series 51 will have their loop-engaging faces or points alternately extending in opposite directions relatively to the peripheral line of the looper, so that when the looper is in position one needle will operate on one side and the other on the opposite side thereof and whereby'the set of hooks, as m, at one side of the peripheral line of said looper will operate continuously with one needle, as 00, disposed adjacent to that side, while the set of hooks, as n, at the opposite side of said peripheral line will operate continuously with the other needle, as y, disposed at that side thereof, all the hooks of both sets working in the same direction. It will be understood, however, that if it should be desired to form a lock chain-stitch a looper or shuttle adapted to receive a bobbin will be used, as hereinbefore set forth. As one means for imparting rotary movement to said looper, and which means may form a part of the looper mechanism, if desired, and therefore a part of the stitch-forming mechanism, the looper 50 is shown provided with a series of three transversely-extending apertures forming driversockets 58, disposed equidistantly apart and which may or may not extend entirely through the same, according to the width and construction of looper used, and which sockets are adapted to receive laterally-extending driving-pins 60, carried by radial arms 60 of a driver 61,which driver is herein shown disposed in a plane oblique to the plane of rotation of the looper and carried on the outer end of a shaft 62, journaled for rotation at one end in a bearing 63 of the bracket 3 and at its opposite end in a bearing 64 of the bracket 4, such driving-pins 60 being adapted successively to engage in the driver-sockets to thereby rotate the looper on the rotation of the shaft in a similar manner to that heretofore set forth in my Patent No. 571,457, granted November 17, 1896. It will be understood, however, that instead of disposing the driver in a plane obliquely to the plane of rotation of the looper such looper may be disposed in a plane oblique to the plane of rotation of the driver in a similar manner to that set forth in my application, Serial No. 536,338, filed January 26, 1894:.

The feed mechanism D in its preferred form comprises the feed-dog '70, which may be of any suitable structure, having an upper serrated side 71 extending through the recesses or slots in the throat-plate 7 and removably secured in any desired way to a feed-dog carrier or lever 7 2, pivotally mounted for vertical and horizontal oscillations on the under side of the bed-plate 2 in any preferred way. In the structure shown, however, a downwardly-extending bracket or carrier 73 is pivotally secured in a recess 74 of the bed-plate 2, Figs. 2 and 5, by means of a fastening device, such as a screw '75, extending through the walls of such recess 7 at and the bracket 73, whereby said bracket is supported for vertical oscillation. On the free end of this bracket the feed-lever 72 is pivotally secured for horizontal oscillation by means of a stud or bolt 7 G.

Pivotally secured to one end of the feeddog and to the under side of the bed-plate 2 is a link 70, which extends in parallelism with the feed-dog lever 7 2 and is adapted to maintain the feed-dog in substantial parallelism with the line of its longitudinal movement.

The feed-actuating means in one preferred form thereof shown comprises a suitable shaft 80, journaled in bearings 81 and S2 of the brackets 4 and 5 of the bed-plate 2, and is provided with a pair of collars S3 and 84, secured thereon and engaging the inner faces of said brackets for preventing longitudinal movement of said shaft. This shaft is herein shown having a bored end 85 for the reception of a supplemental shaft 86, which is splined therein for longitudinal adjustment, but is secured against independent rotary movement. This supplemental shaft 86 is provided with an enlarged head or block 87, having an exterior annular groove 88 and an interior inclined eecentrically-disposed bore 89. Fitted for adjustment within this inclined bore 89 is a sliding member 90, formed by two separable members 91 and 92, each of which is provided with a semicircular recess, which when in position relatively to each other form a socket 93 forthe reception of a spherical end 94 of the feed-lever 72, whereby on the rotation of the shafts 80 and 86 the feed-dog is given its vertical and horizontal oscillations in an elliptical path in a manner that will be readily understood. The member is shown having a flaring month 95, communicating with its socket 93, whereby the feed-dog lever 72, which is reduced at this point, will not be retarded in its movement.

As one means for adjusting the feed-dog lever, and thereby the feed-dog, to increase or decrease its eifective throw, and thus regu late its feed, an adjustable member 06, having bifurcated arms 97 fitting Within the exterior groove 88 of the block 87, is adjustably secured to the under side of the bedplate and is herein shown adapted to slide in a way 98, formed by a pair of ribs 09 on the under side of said plate. Fixedly secured to this member 96 and extending through an elongated slot 100 of the bed-plate 2 is a threaded stud 100, having a clamp-nut 100 thereon, a washer 100" being interposed between the under side of said clamp-nut and the upper side of said bed-plate. On the adjustment of the member 96 by means of the clamp-nut 100 the supplemental shaft 80 and its block 87 will be moved longitudinally relatively to the feed-lever and the shaft 80 to thereby increase or decrease the eccentricity of the two-part member 90, supported in the inclined bore thereof, and thus regulate the feed of the feed-dog.

One means for rotating the looper and actuating the feed-lever and its dog comprises a train of intermeshing gears 101, 102, and 103, one, as 101, preferably forming a part of the member a of the cam-cylinder 20 and rotatable therewith and meshing with the gear 102, adjustably secured to the feed-actuating lever -shaft 80, and which in turn meshes with the gear 103, carried by the rotatable shaft 62, and which gears are so constructed for the purposes of this particular form of machine that to every complete rotation of the cylinder 20 the looper will be rotated one and one-third of a rotation, While the feeddog will be actuated twice, whereby it will feed at each two-thirds of a rotation of the loop-taker, or, in other words, at each onefourth of a rotation of the cam-cylinder the looper will be moved one-third of a rotation for the purpose hereinafter set forth.

The pulley and hand wheels 25 and 26 are herein shown mounted on the cam-shaft 23; but it is obvious that in practice they may be disposed on the feed-actuating shaft or on the looper-shaft, if desired, and the same results be obtained.

Each needle-thread s and t is carried by a separate spool 100 and 105, respectively, the spool-spindles 106 and thereof being carried on the arm 10.

As a means for guiding the threads from the spools a guide device, herein shown in the nature of a bar 107, havinga pair of eyes at one end thereof, through which the threads pass, is disposed on the arm 10, adjacent to said spools. A similar guide device 110, having a pair of eyes at its outer end, is likewise disposed adjacent to the machine-head.

Suitable tension devices are provided for the threads, and in the present construction thereof they are shown disposed at one side of the arm 10, and each preferably comprises a pair of non-rotatable clamping members or disks 109 and 109 and 109" and 100, respectively, disposed side by side and secured for lateral adjustment on the end of a spindle 110 by a nut 113, a tension-spring 111 being interposed between the inner disk or member 109 and a plate 114, carried by said spindle.

An additional tension or guide device may be secured adjacent to the lower end of each needle-bar 0c and y and also adjacent to the lower end of the machine-head, if desired; but in the present construction onlya pair of guide eyes or loops 112 and 112' are shown in position at the points indicated for guiding the threads, and which eyes or loops may be formed as spirals or in any otherdesired way.

It will be understood that in practice other suitable means might be used for rotating the looper and for actuating the needles and that other feed mechanism might also be used, if desired, and that also other tension means and guides might be used, if desired.

In the operation of this improved sewingmachine in order to form the particular character of stitch herein set forth, motion having been imparted to the driving-pulley from any suitable source of power, one needle, as a", will be caused to descend, carrying with it the thread through the fabric 150, which on the inauguration of the upward movement of the needle forms a loop which will be taken by one of the hooks-for instance, as m of the set m, Figs. 14, 15, and 16-and carried completely around the looper for the purpose of having a loop from the opposite needle carried therethrough, said looper moving in the direction of the arrow. When, however, the first loop has been carried substantially onethird way around the looper, Figs. 17 to 19, by the hook m, the needle x is ascending, while the needle y is descending, both needles, however, being entirely outof the fabric, at which time the feed of the fabric by means of the feed-actuating mechanism takes place, and during which feeding movement a pair of hooks, as 'm and of, are skipped, as neither needle is in position to have the hooks engage the thread thereof. When the hook m has moved substantially two-thirds way around, Figs. 20, 21, and 22, the needle 00 has completely ascended and the needle 3 descended and has commenced its return movement, thereby forming a loop in the usual way, which loop is taken by a hook, as n, of the opposite set of loop-takers n and which also carries the same entirely around the looper. When such hook to has rotated onethird way around, however, with the second loop of the series, Figs. 23,24, and 25, the first hook m of the first set-m has made one complete rotation, the loop thereof being withdrawn from the hook m and such hook m and its companion hook n being skipped in a similar manner to that set forth in connection with books 971. and 91- at which time the needle y is reascending and the first needle a; again descending, both needles, however, being entirely out of the fabric, at which time the feed thereof again takes place in a simi lar manner to that above described in connection with the needle m.

From the above it will be seen that there will be one feed for each needle substantially immediately after a hook of the looper has engaged the loop of that needle and while one needle is ascending and the other descending, both, however, being out of the fabric.

When the book a has carried the second loop substantially two thirds of the way around, Figs. 26, 27, and 28, the needle whas completely descended and has commenced its return, thereby forming a loop which will be engaged by the second hook m of the set 'm, which when the same has arrived one-third way around, Figs. 29, 30, and 31, the first hook n of the set a has made one complete rotation, its loop having been withdrawn in the usual manner, the feed again taking place at this time in a similar manner to that here= inbefore described. When the hook m has been rotated two-thirds way around, Figs. 32, 33, and 34, the opposite needle y has again made a second descent and is reascendin g, thereby forming a loop which will be engaged by the hook n of the opposite set a, the hooks n and m having been skipped in the manner above set forth. When the hook n has carried its loop one-third way around, the hook m of the set m has made a complete rotation and lost its loop, while the needle y is reascending and the needle w descending, at which time the feed takes place, as before set forth, Figs. 35, 36, and 37, and when the hook n has moved two-thirds way around the last hook m of the set on will be in position to engage a'loop from the needle 00, and when such hook m has also moved two-thirds way around the last hook n of the set 71/ will be in position to engage a loop from the needle y. Thus it will be seen that each needle acts in connection with the same set of hooks throughout the entire operation of the machine and that the hooks of eachset act in alternation with each other, all working, however, in the same direction, and in this construction it will also be seen that the hook of one set is rotated two-thirds way around before a hook of the opposite set engages a loop, whereby a pair of hooks is skipped alternately, and from which it will also be seen that the looper makes one and one-third of a rotation before a hook of the same set at one side thereof again takes a loop. By this improved stitchforming mechanism a double seam is formed in which the alternating diagonally-disposed loops of the stitches are made of different threads-that is to say, all of the diagonally extending loops of one seam are made of one thread, while all the loops of the opposite seam are made of another thread, such loops, however, alternating with each other, wherebya chain-stitch will be formed in which each loop of the series of loops will extend throughacompanion loop, or, in other words, in which the alternating loops of the two seams will extend one through the other,

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whereby the fabric will have on one side thereof two relatively remote rows of parallel stitches and on its opposite side a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed stitches or loops extending crosswise of the two rows of parallel stitches, the bight of each loop engaging its companion loop substantially midway of its length, whereby the tension of the threads is equalized throughout, Figs. 7, 8, and 0.

In order to illustrate more clearly the periods at which the feed of the fabric takes place and the operation of the cam-cylinder, reference is now more particularly made to Figs. 10, 11, 12, and 13, from which it will be seen that when the needle 00 is in the position marked a and is ascending from below the fabric (indicated by 150) the needle 'I/ is in its starting position and is about to descend, and when the cam device has moved to the position marked 7), Figs. 12 and 13, relatively to the needle-actuating lever-arms 31 and 36 the needles :1; and 1] have moved in their respective paths to the line marked 1), Fig. 10, shortly after which, at the point marked 151, the feeding mechanism is operated into position to commence its feed,which in practice is inaugurated slightly before the needle 00 leaves the fabric, such feed taking place from this point until the needles 0: and 'g reach the point 151, slightly beyond the line f, from which time the needle g descends below the fabric 150, the needle a: being entirely out of the same, the feed again commencing shortly before the needle q reaches the point marked 151, Fig. 10, from which point both needles 7 and it, the latter of which is descending, will be out of the fabric, the feed continuing until such needle 00 has practically reached the point marked 151', after which it completely descends to form the loop, the needle 7 reascending in the meantime.

By a comparison of the lines a Z) c d c, &c., Fig. 10, with the similar lines ofFigs. 12 and 13 the position of the cam-cylinder 2O relatively to the needle-actuating lever-arms 3i and 36 will be clearly understood, and from which it will also be seen that one cam-groove is so formed that one needle will be actuated slightly in advance of the other, to thereby compensate for the distance between each pair of adjacent hooks, as m and 11 In the operation of this improved machine it will be noted that all the hooks of the series of hooks 51 comprising the two sets m and n will operate in the same direction and will all in turn engage the thread of one or the other of the needles, to thereby carry a loop completely around the loop-taker, to thus form this improved double seam.

In that class of sewing-machines having only a single needle and a rotatable looper the first or preceding loop is drawn up close to the under side of the fabric by the action of the looper in drawing out the second or succeeding loop of the series of stitches, as

the loops are formed of one continuous thread; but in this improved machine, as each seam is composed of a different thread, it is necessary that some suitable loopdake-up mechanism be provided for drawing up the loop formed by one needle and drawn out by the looper while the opposite needle is forming its loop and having the same drawn out by said looper, and while other means might be used in practice for this purpose in place of that herein shown the present construction of loop-take-up mechanism, which is substantially similar to that shown and described in my prior application, filed September 5, 1806, Serial No. (304,093, is, however, adapted to accomplish this purpose satisfactorily, and will be herein again fully described in order that the operation of the same in connection with this particular construction of looper will be clearly understood. In order, therefore, to take up the loops, the thread of one needle is preferably in operative engagement with the needle-bar of its companion needle, whereby the threads will be crossed intermediate their points of engagement with such bars and the eyes of the neodle-that is to say, one thread, as s, of the spool 106 passes through the eye 19 of the thread-take-up device 18 of the needle-bar 0c and is then led to the eye of the opposite needle 9 while the thread i from the other spool 105 passes through the eye 19 of the thread-take-up device 18 of the opposite needle-bar y and is then led to the eye of the needle 50, whereby the loop formed by one needle will be partially drawn up on the ascent of its companion needle, the complete drawing up of such loop not being obtained, however, by the needle-bars in the present construction of machine owing to the fact that each loop when completely drawn out or half-way around the looper has a thread at each side thereof, and hence the entire length of the loop is equal to nearly twice the diameter of the looper, whereby in order to completely draw up this length of thread by the needle-bars it would be necessary to have said needle-bars move upward a distance substantially equal to the entire length of such thread minus that portion thereof necessary to form the stitch, and which would be more or less disadvantageous in many ways. In order, therefore, to overcome this requirement and permit the needles to have a comparatively short stroke, and which in the present construction is sufficient only to draw up a length of thread equal to a part of such completely-drawn-out loop, suitable means is provided to assist the needle-bars in obtaining the result, and which means is operable to draw up a length of thread substantially equal to the other portion of a completely-drawnout loop minus the parts thereof necessary to form the stitch, whereby when coacting with the needle-bars it will form loop-take-up mechanism operable to completely draw up a loop in the proper manner. This means in the present construction thereof consists of spring mechanism operable by the action of the looper in drawing out the loops, and which mechanism is herein shown preferably comprising a pair of relatively light spring members or bars 125 and 126, one for each thread, and each of which is provided with an eye or loop 127 and 128, respectively, at its outer end. These bars are carried on a spindle 129, adjustably secured at any desired place on the machine-arm 10 by means of a set-screw 130 or other suitable device, and have their inner ends 125' and 126 secured to and coiled on said spindle, preferably with right and left hand turns, whereby on the adjustment of the spindle, the outer end of which is provided with a slot for this purpose, the tension of both spring-bars will be simultaneously increased or decreased equally. In order to regulate the position of said bars, suitable means is provided, preferably comprising a downwardly-extending arm 131, disposed on the spindle intermediate the spring-coils and adjustable likewise by means of a set-screw 132 or other suitable device, whereby it can be adjusted to correspond with the position of the spring-bars. This arm is provided at its lower end with a cross-pin 133, on which the spring members or bars 125 and 126 rest, whereby their downward movements are limited.

In threading the needles of my present construction of machine one thread, as s, is drawn from its spool 106 through one of the guide-eyes of the guide-bar 107, thence between one pair of tension-disks, as 109 and 109', thence through one of the guide-eyes of the other guide-bar 110, thence through the eye 128 of the spring-bar 126, thence through the eye of the thread-take-up 18' of the needle-bar 0t, and thence to the eye of the opposite needle y, while the other thread, as if, is drawn from its spool through the adjacent eyes of the guide-bars 107 and passing between the other pair of tension-disks 109" and 109", thence through the eye 127 of the other spring-bar 125, thence through the eye 19 of the other thread-take-up 18 of the needle-bar y, and thence to the eye of the needle at. As the positions of the looper mechanism of Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 14,16, 17, and 19 vary somewhat, the operation of this improved looptake-up mechanism will be first described in connection with Figs. 14, 16, 17, and 19, from which it will be seen that the needle 00, Figs. 14 and 16, having formed its loop from its thread if for the looper, is ascending, Figs. 17 and 19, while the rotatable looper is drawing out such loop around the same, themedle-bar y simultaneously descending and carrying, by means-of its thread-take-up 18, said thread if and thus permitting the loop to be partially drawn out. As the entire downward stroke of the needle y, however, is only sufficient to permit the loop to be carried partially around the looper, therefore without the use of the spring-bars and 126 additional thread, in order to supply the deficiency, would have to be drawn from the spool, in which case the greater part of the.

thread so drawn therefrom would not be again taken up, as the upward stroke of the needle L is only sufficient to take up the same amount that was drawn out by the looper on the downward movement thereof. Hence during a portion of the downward stroke of said needle t/ the spring-bar 125 coacts therewith by the rotative movement of said looperand is drawn up sufficiently far to permit the looper to nearly completely draw out the loop of said thread t of the needle 00 to its full extent in order to carry it around the same, and which spring-bar 125 would thus be in the same position in which the spring-bar 126 is shown in Fig. 2. When, however, said loop is nearly completely drawn out or nearly half way around the looper, the spring-bar 125 will be substantially equal in tension to the main tension device, and hence the further movement of the looper in completely drawing out the loop to its full extentdraws an amount of thread from the spool necessary for the length of the stitch without further actuating the spring-bar 125 upward, and when the loop of said thread if and needle 00 has been carried half way around the looper, or to the point g, Fig. 16, it is then in position to be drawn up; but the needle-bars in. this construction of machine have descending movements practically during two-thirds of a rotation of the looper, hence when the looper has moved one-half way around the needle-bar y, which is still descending, has reached the point g, Fig. 10,,and is therefore not in position to draw up the loop and does not commence its return movement until it reaches the point 77', Fig. 10, and the looper has also reached the point h, Fig. 16; but the slack of the loop is drawn up while the looper is traveling from said point g to the point h, Fig. 16, by the movement of the spring-bar 125, which is permitted to move downward slightly toward its normal position, so that when the needle commences its return or upward movement the loop is further drawn up thereby, the spring bar coacting therewith and thus completely drawing up the loop on the under side of the fabric, the combined movement of the needle-bar on its ascent and the return movement of the spring being substantially equal to the entire length of the thread of a completely drawn-out loop minus that portion thereof which is necessary to form the stitch. As the action of the opposite needle-bar is similar to that just described, it will thus be seen from the foregoing that the descending needle-bar carries, by means of its thread-take-up device, that particular thread the loop of which is being drawn out by the looper and that when the needle is on its return movement and ascending the loop has already been completely drawn out and carried beyond its half-way point around the looper and slightly drawn up by the spring-bar, so

that the needle and spring-bar coact together to complete the drawing up of said loop, and from which it will be further seen that the spring-bars coact with the needle-bars 011 the downward movement of said bars to permit the looper to properly draw out the loops and on the upward movements of the bars to take up such loops. Referring now to Figs. 1, 2, and 3, in which the looper mechanism is in a somewhat diiferent position from that shown in the figures just referred to, it will be seen that the needle 0: has descended and is, for instance, at the line marked h, Fig. 10, while the needle 3 has ascended and is at the same line 7t, and hence practically at its highest point, but while ascending has had its loop carried half-way around the looper, this operation taking place while the said needle 00 was descending; but, as above stated, as the entire downward stroke of the needle .02, which carries, by means of its take-up bar 18, the thread .9 of such (1 awn-out loop, is only suflicient to permit a small portion of such loop to be drawn out by the looper, hence, as the loop is shown carried half-way around said looper, the spring-bar 12G, therefore, has been drawn up to its highest point by the action of such looper, Fig. 2, which point, however, was reached when the loop was nearly halfway around, so that when carried to its halfway point, in which it is shown, a part of the thread 8 of such loop, sufficient to form the length of stitch, has been drawn directly from the spool without actuating said spring-bar 126 farther upward, owing to the fact that the tension of said spring-bar is then substantially equal tothe tension of the main tension device.

Having described my invention, I claim 1. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism comprising a rotatable looper having a series of loop-takers embodying two independent sets thereof all working in the same direction, one set at each side of the peripheral line of the looper; a plurality of needle mechanisms, one operative with each set of loop-takers; and actuating means therefor.

2. The combination with a movable looper having sets of hooks, the hooks of one set being located 011 one side, and those of the other set on the other side, of said looper; of a series of alternatelyoperable needles; and means for actuating said looper and needles.

3. The combination with a rotatable looper having a series of six hooks disposed in pairs with relation to the periphery thereof and all operative in the same direction, and the hooks of one set being located on one side, and those of the other set on the other side, of said looper; of a pair of alternately-operable needles; and means for actuating said looper and needles.

4. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-formin g mechanism comprising a rotatable looper having a series of hooks disposed in pairs, the hooks of each pair being disposed at opposite sides of the looper and operative in the same direction, whereby two sets of hooks are formed at each side thereof and in alternation with each other; a pair of alternately-operable needles, one operative with each set of hooks; and actuating means therefor to thereby form a double seam, whereby the fabric will have on one side thereof two relatively remote rows of parallel stitches and on the opposite side thereof a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed stitches or loops extending crosswise of the two rows of parallel stitches, the bight of each loop engaging its companion loop intermediate its ends.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with needle mechanism, of a rotatable looper having sets of hooks all operative in the same direction, the hooks of one set being located 011 one side of the looper and pointing in one direction relatively to the sides of said looper, and those of the other set on the opposite side of the looper and pointing in the opposite direction relatively to the sides thereof, and one hook of each set being adjacent to the hook of the other set.

0. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; a feed-actuating lever supported for vertical and horizontal oscillations; rotatable means operatively connected to said feed-actuating lever and movable longitudinally in the plane of the axis of said feed-lever, for regulating the throw of the feed-dog; and means for adjusting said rotatable and longitudinally-movable means.

'7. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; a feed-actuating lever pivotally supported for vertical and horizontal oscillations; rotatable means longitudinally movable in the plane of the axis of said feed lever and carrying eccentrically-disposed means operatively connected with said feed-actuating lever; and means for adjusting said rotatable and longitudinally-movable means, to thereby regulate the throw of the feed-(log.

S. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; a feed-actuating lever supported for vertical and horizontal oscillations; rotatable and longitudinally-movable means carrying eccentrically-disposed means having a ball-and-socket connection with said feed-actuating lever; and means for adjusting said rotatable and longitudinally-movable means, to thereby regulate the movement of the feed-dog.

9. I11 a sewing-machine, the combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; a feed-actuating lever pivotally supported for vertical and horizontal oscillations; rotatable means longitudinally movable in the plane of the axis of the feed-actuatin g lever and operatively connected thereto; means for adj ustin g said rotatable and longitudinally-movable means, to thereby regulate the throw of the feed-dog; and a link pivotally secured to the feed-dog and to the framework, for holding said feed-dog in parallelism with the plane of its longitudinal movement.

10. In a sewing-machine, the combination with feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; of a feed-actuatin g lever pivotally supported in position to actuate the feed-dog in an elliptical path; a rotatable,lon gitudinally-movable shaft having an inclined eccentricallydisposed bore or recess; a shiftable member disposed therein and operatively connected with one .end of said feed-actuating lever; means for moving said shaft longitudinally; and vibratory means secured to the feed-dog and to the framework for holding said feeddog in parallelism with the plane of its longitudinal movement.

11. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog a feed-actuating lever pivotally supported for. vertical and horizontal oscillations; a rotatable, longitudinallymovable shaft having an inclined, eccentrically-disposed recess or bore; a sliding member disposed in said bore and operatively connected' with the end of said feed-actuating lever; and means for moving said shaft longitudinally, to thereby regulate the effective movement of the dog. I I

12. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; a feed-actuating lever pivotally supported for vertical and horizontal oscillations; a rotatable shaft having a bored end; a supplemental shaft splined thereto for longitudinal movement, said supplemental shaft having its free end provided with an inclined eccentrically-disposed recess or bore; and a sliding member disposed therein and operatively connected with the end of said feed actuating lever; and means for moving said supplemental shaft longitudinally, to thereby regulate the effective throw of the feed-dog,

\ 13. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; a feed-actuating lever pivotally secured for vertical and horizontal oscillations; a rotatable shaft having a bored end; a supplemental shaft splined thereto for longitudinal movement and having an enlarged end provided with an inclined, eccentrically disposed bore or recess; a sliding member disposed in such recess and operatively connected with the end of such feedlever; and sliding means operatively connected with the supplemental shaftfor moving the same longitudinally, to thereby regulate the effective throw of the feed-dog.

14:- The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog a feed-actuating lever pivotally secured for vertical and horizontal oscillations, said leverhaving a spherical end; a rotatable longitudinally-movable shaft having an inclined, eccentrically-disposed recess or bore; a sliding member disposed in said recess and having a socket into which the spherical end of said lever extends; means for rotating said shaft; and means for longitudinally moving said shaft, to thereby regulate the throw of the feed-dog.

15. The combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; a feed-actuating lever pivotally supported for vertical and horizontal oscillations and having a spherical end; a rotatable shaft having a bored end; a

supplemental shaft splined in such bored end for longitudinal movement, said shaft having an enlarged head provided with an exterior groove and with an inclined, eccentrically= disposed recess; a sliding member therein having a socket for the reception of said spherical end; and an adjustable member having a bifurcated arm engaging the exterior groove of said supplemental shaft and adapted to move the supplemental shaft longitudinally and thereby regulate the throw of the feed-dog.

16. In a sewing-machine, the combination of feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog; a

feed-actuating lever pivotally supported for 7 vertical and horizontal oscillations and having a spherical end; a rotatable longitudinally-movable shafthaving an inclined eccentrically-disposed bore or recess; a sliding member disposed in said bore and comprising separable members, each of said members having a recess, whereby when said members are in position relatively to each other a socket is formed for the reception of the spherical end of the feed-actuating lever; and means for adjusting said supplemental shaft longitudinally, to thereby regulate the feed of the feed-dog;

17. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a downwardly extending bracket pivotally secured to the framework for vertical oscillation a feed-actuating lever carrying a feed-dog and pivotally secured to said bracket for horizontal oscillation, said lever having a spherical end; a rotatable shaft journaled'in said framework and having a bored end; a supplemental shaft splined in the bore of said rotatable shaft for longitudinal movement and having an enlarged head having an exterior annular groove and an inclined, eccentrically-disposed bore or recess; a two-part member disposed in said inclined recess and having a socket for the reception of the spherical end of said lever; an

IIO

adjustable member having a bifurcated arm engaging the annular groove of the supplemental shaft; and a clamping device secured to said adjustable member for actuating and clamping the same in position, to thereby move the supplemental shaft longitudinally relatively to the rotatable shaft and feed-lever, to thereby adjust the effective throw of the feed-dog.

18. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a peripherally-supported looper having two sets of loop-takers disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line of said looper and all operative in the same direction and each set comprising a plurality of loop-takers 5 needle mechanism; feeding mechanism; and actuating means for said looper, needle, and feeding mechanisms.

19. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a rotatable looper having two sets of looptakers or hooks disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction and each set comprising a plurality of loop-takers; of a pair of alternately-operable needles, one disposed in front of the other and adapted to operate at each side of the looper, respectively, one with each set of hooks; feed mechanism operative to feed the fabric; and actuating mechanism for said looper, needle, and feed mechanisms.

20. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a looper supported for rotation, said looper having a series of hooks comprising two sets disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction and each set comprising a plurality of hooks; needle mechanism comprising a pair of alternately-operable needle-bars; a cylinder having a pair of cam grooves; and oscillatory levers, operatively connected with the needle-bars and with the cam-grooves of the cylinder,whereby said needle-bars will be alternately actuated; feed mechanism; and means for actuating said cylinder, looper and feed mechanisms.

21. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a looper supported for rotation, said looper havinga series of hooks comprising two sets disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction; a rotatable shaft having means for actuating said looper needle mechanism comprising a pair of alternately-operable needle-bars; a cylinder having a pair of cam-grooves and oscillatory levers, one lever being operatively connected with each needlebar and with one cam-groove of the cylinder,

0 whereby said needle-bars will be alternately actuated; feed mechanism embodying a rotatable shaft; and intermeshin g gears carried by said cylinder, feed-shaft, and looper-shaft, for imparting motion to said looper, feed mechanism, and needle mechanism.

22. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a peripherally supported looper having two sets of hooks disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof and each set comprising a plurality of hooks and all of said hooks having their hook-engaging portions or points projecting in the same circumferential direction and disposed in alternation with each other relatively to the peripheral line of the looper; needle mechanism embodying alternately-reciprocating needlebars; feed mechanism; means for adjusting said feed mechanism; and means for actuating said looper, needle, and feed mechanisms.

23. A looper comprising a circular or diskshaped member, provided with a series of loop-takers disposed in sets of three, one set being located on each side of the peripheral line of the looper, and each loop-taker having its loop-engaging face projecting in the same circumferential direction.

24. A looper for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular or disk-shaped member having a series of loop-takers comprising two sets, one set disposed at each side of the peripheral line thereof and each set comprising a series of three loop-takers and one looptaker of each set being adjacent to a loop-taker of the other set and all operative in the same direction, whereby each loop-taker in the operation of the looper is adapted to engage a loop of a needle-thread, to thereby form a stitch.

25. A looper for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular or disk-shaped member having a series of loop-takers all operative in the same direction and comprising two oppositelydisposed sets, one set disposed at each side of the peripheral line thereof and each looptaker of one set being operative alternately with a loop-taker of the opposite set, whereby when in position each loop-taker, in the operation of the looper and during the rotation thereof in the same direction, is adapted to engage a loop of a needle-thread, to thereby form a stitch.

26. A looper for a sewing-machine, comprising a circular or disk-shaped member having a series of loop-takers comprising two sets, one set disposed at each side of the peripheral line thereof and such series of looptakers being disposed in pairs, one loop-taker of one set being adjacent to a loop-taker of the opposite set, whereby the loop-takers of each set are disposed in alternation with each other and all of said loop-takers being opera= tive in the same direction, whereby on the rotation of the looper each loop-taker will engage a loop of a needle-thread, to form a stitch.

27. In a sewing-machine, the combination with framework, of a rotatable looper having two sets of hooks disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction; a shaft journaled in said framework and carrying means for actuating said looper; a pair of reciprocatory needle-bars carrying needles; a cam-cylinder also jonrnaled in said framework; oscillatory means operatively connecting said needlebars and cam-cylinder, for reciprocating said needles alternately; feed mechanism embodying a rotatable shaft journaled in said framework; a train of gears connecting said camcylinder, looper-shaft, and feedshaft, the gears of said cam-cylinder and feed-shaft having a ratio of two to one, and the gears of said feed-shaft and looper-shaft having a ratio of two to one and one-half, whereby each needle will be operated once and the feed mechanism twice during each one and one-third rotation of the looper.

28. A looper provided with a series of hooks, some of which have their loop-engaging faces on one side of the looper, and others of which have their loop-engaging faces on the other too ICS

loop to one side of the looper and then to pre- 10 sent a loop to the other side of the looper; and means for actuating said needle mechanism.

FRANCIS H. RICHARDS.

Witnesses:

FRED. J. DOLE, GEO. A. HOFFMAN.

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