US3822727A - Fabric weave - Google Patents

Fabric weave Download PDF

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US3822727A
US3822727A US00278189A US27818972A US3822727A US 3822727 A US3822727 A US 3822727A US 00278189 A US00278189 A US 00278189A US 27818972 A US27818972 A US 27818972A US 3822727 A US3822727 A US 3822727A
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threads
float
hinge
group
weave
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K Small
T Vranko
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06JPLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
    • D06J1/00Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel
    • D06J1/12Forms of pleats or the like
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D03D11/02Fabrics formed with pockets, tubes, loops, folds, tucks or flaps
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06JPLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
    • D06J1/00Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel

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  • ABSTRACT A novel fabric weave providing integrally woven folds or creases. Each fold has a weave characterized by a void, a pivot thread or a group of threads which run the length of the fold and act as the point of creasing in the fold.
  • the pivot thread or group of threads are interlaced as one at intervals along the length of the pivot thread or threads by a plurality of float threads.
  • the float threads float or pass over at least three of the threads lying on each side of the pivot thread or group of threads. Above and below the float threads are one or more holding threads which hold the float threads in place.
  • the tension created by the float threads along either side of the pivot thread or threads causes a natural and inherent tendency of the fabric weave to form a fold or crease which is permanent.
  • the novel weave of the invention is particularly suited for the weaving of draperies.
  • the present invention relates to the field of weaving and is particularly directed to a novel weave which causes an inherent tendency of such a woven cloth to crease or fold.
  • the inventive fabric weave is made up of two basic parts: a table section and a fold or hinge section. These two basic parts are alternated in various patterns to create special effects.
  • the table sections contain the basic weave of the cloth and are not limited as to the type of weave contained therein.
  • the hinge sections are woven in a special way to create the tendency in thecloth to fold.
  • the hinge section contains a pivot point comprised of a void, a thread, or a group of threads which run the length of the fold. On either side of the pivot point are groups of three or more threads which form the sides of the fold. In the crosswise direction, float threads occur at intervals along the length of the hinge. Each float thread is interlaced with the pivot point when it is comprised of a thread or group of threads and floats over the groups of threads in the hinge found on either side of the pivot point. Additional crosswise threads are interwoven or'interlaced with the groups of three or more threads occurring on either side of the pivot threads in normal weaving sequence. These latter threads act to hold the float threads in place.
  • Each of the float threads acts to pull the sides of the hinge or fold together creating a crease along the pivot point. It is important that each float thread along the same hinge be interlaced with the pivot point on the same side. This way each float thread pulls the hinge sides in the same direction. Otherwise, the tensions created by the float threads would tend to counteract each other resulting in a flat weave rather than a hinge or fold.
  • the invention will most likely find its greatest application in the drapery field. Its use, however, is not limited thereto. Certainly, the garment and accessory fields can also extensively utilize this invention.
  • the novel weave of the invention is described in its particularity by reference to fabrics. It is intended however, that the principles of this invention be applied to the weaving of any pliable materials. For example, grasses, bamboo, leather, metal wire or strips, and plastic strips or strands can also be used. The advantages and applications of such materials will be apparent to those skilled in the art.
  • FIG. 1 shows a perspective elevation of a woven cloth containing table and hinge sections alternating to create an accordian type of folding
  • FIG. 2 shows a perspective elevation of the cloth of FIG. 1 which has been stretched out to show the front and back of the hinges;
  • FIG. 3 shows an enlarged detailed view of a section of the table shown from the direction of lines 33 of FIG. 2;
  • FIG. 4 shows an enlarged detailed view of a section of the front of a hinge shown from the direction of lines 4-4 of FIG. 2;
  • FIG. 5 shows an enlarged detailed view of a section of the back of a hinge as shown from the direction of lines 55 of FIG. 2;
  • FIG. 6 shows an example of a typical weaving sequence which can be used to form two opposed hinge sections alternating with table sections
  • FIGS. 7, 8, 9, and 10 show several effects which can be created by the selective alteration of the hinges of the invention.
  • FIG. 9 also shows a plan view of the cloth of FIG. 1.
  • FIG. 1 there is shown a cloth which is woven in accordance with the principles of the invention. As shown, the cloth is made up of alternating sec tions.
  • the basic weave making up table sections 12 alternate with hinge sections 14 and 16.
  • Each hinge section 14 is a forward projecting hinge while each hinge section 16 is a backward projecting hinge.
  • the hinge sections 14 and 16 are the same, one being the reverse side of the other.
  • the backward projecting hinges 16 can be seen in the flattened cloth of FIG. 2.
  • FIG. 3 shows a detailed view of the weave of the table section 12 of FIG. 2 as shown from the direction 3-3. It can be seen that the warp ends 18 are alternately interwoven or interlaced with fill or weft picks 20 and 22. The weft or fill picks 20 in the table weave become the float picks 20 in the hinge weave. It should be noted that these float picks 20 lie in their own shed in the table section 12. That is, each of the float picks 20 is interlaced with .the warp ends 18 by itself rather than being grouped together with another fill pick as is the case with the remaining fill picks 22. The purpose of this is to securely hold the float pick 20 in the table weave so that the tension created in the hinge weave by the float picks 20 is not loosened or equalized in the table weave:
  • the fill picks 22 are grouped in pairs which lie in the same shed in the table weave. These same fill picks 22 are separated in the hinge sections 14 and 16 and lie in separate sheds. The purpose of this is to provide a means for creating a greater density in the hinge section as compared to that in the table weave section. The greater density in the hinge section acts to hold the float picks in place both in the table weave and hinge weave sections.
  • the pivot point 24 is comprised of a group of four warp ends.
  • the pivot point 24 is interlaced by two float picks 20.
  • the float picks are shown to pass over the pivot point 24 and under the remaining warp ends 25 in the hinge section.
  • each of the float picks passes under the pivot point 24 and over the remaining warp threads in the hinge section. While only half of the hinge is shown, it is representative of what happens on both sides of the pivot point 24.
  • each of the filling picks 22 lies in its own shed in the hinge section. However, as can be seen in the beginning portion of the table section in FIGS. 4 and 5, these filling picks 22 join together in the table section to lie in the same shed.
  • the float pick 20 always catches or interlaces the group of pivoting threads 24 on the same side along the length of the hinge.
  • the appearance along the length of the pivoting thread is like a ladder.
  • the remaining fill picks 22 as shown in FIGS. 4 and S, are all made to interlace with the pivot threads 24 on the same side which is opposite to that interlaced by the float picks 20. The purpose of this is to prevent any equalizing of the tension created by the float picks 20, which would neutralize the tendency to fold.
  • the interlacing of the float picks 22 with the warp ends 18 immediately adjacent the pivot threads 24 is symmetrical. While this step is not critical, it is preferred since it creates a straight hanging hinge. When the weaving is unsymmetrical on either side of the pivot threads 24, there is a tendency for the pivot point 24 to be pulled out of line. For this same reason, it is preferred that there be an equal number of warp ends 25 on either side of the pivot threads 24 so that it lies substantially in the center of the hinge. If this criteria is not met, the hinge will still function. However, it will not hang as straight or be as attractive as if the pivot point 24 were in the center of the hinge.
  • the preferred weave in the hinge section can be considered to be composed of five fill picks. These five picks would consist of the two fill picks 22 lying above a float pick 20 and two more fill picks 22 lying below the float pick. Between these groups of five virtually any desired weaving sequence is possible as long as the overall density of the hinge section is greater than that of the table weave.
  • the float picks 20 can be made to occur quite close to one another. This is not necessary, however. Several float picks 20 can occur in succession as long as they lie in their own shed. Preferably, the occurance of the float picks 20 ranges from as close as every fourth fill thread allowing for one fill pick above and below each float pick to hold it in place, to as great as one float pick every two to three inches. However, with only two fill picks between each float pick, symmetry around the pivot point is difficult to maintain. Furthermore, it is more difficult to create a higher density in the hinged section as opposed to the table section. It is preferred then to have at least two fill picks above and below each float pick and to have approximately one to four float picks to each linear inch of hinge.
  • float threads to be used per linear inch of hinge depends on many variables. Some of these include the type of fabric, the tightness of the weave, the type of yarn used including its strength, bulk, resiliency, texture, weight and content. The best determination can be arrived at by a trial and error method using the guidelines presented herein.
  • the pivot point 24 of the hinge can be comprised of a void, a thread, or a group of threads.
  • a void is created by skipping a dent when drawing the warp ends through the reed whereby a space is created where a warp end would have been placed. This results in the float pick floating over all of the warp ends in the hinge. Nevertheless, the hinge is still maintained as the void acts as the point of pivoting for the hinge. The latter is not a preferred procedure. However, it is workable.
  • one or more threads to act as a pivot point will depend upon the aesthetic design of the weave as well as the density and weight of the yarn used. In general, for bulky yarns the pivot point would most likely consistof a slightly heavier thread. When finer yarns are being woven, the better choice would probably be several threads instead of just one.
  • the greater density in the hinge is created primarily by having a greater number of interlacings or intersections in the hinge sections. This is made possible by weaving two of the filling picks 22 in the same shed in the table section and then weaving them in single sheds in the hinge section.
  • the density of the woven cloth depends mainly on three factors: the density of the yarns used, the balance of warp and fill threads, and the manner of drawing the warp threads through the dents, or spaces in the reed of the loom. An alteration of any one of these factors will affect the final density of the cloth.
  • the density in the hinge section can be increased over that of the table weave by increasing the number of intersections in the hinge area.
  • the density is also affected by the pressure applied to the fill picks after each pass of the shuttle. Perhaps more important to the final density of the cloth is the last factor mentioned, which is the manner of drawing the warp ends through the reed of the loom.
  • leno weave which is an open weave in which pairs of warp yarns cross one another. The filling yarn is thereby locked into position.
  • FIG. 6 there is shown a schematic representation of a preferred weaving sequence, including three table sections alternating with a front projecting fold or hinge section and a backward projecting fold or hinge section.
  • each float pick be held in place in the weave by a pair of fill picks lying above and below the float pick.
  • the warp ends in FIG. 6 are represented by dots.
  • the float picks and the filling picks are both represented by a continuous line which is made to pass over and under the warp ends.
  • Each pick sequence is numbered as shown from 1 to 6.
  • the table section shows only five warp ends, it should be remembered that this is only representative and in most cases many more warp ends will be used.
  • the hinge section em ploys three warp ends on each side of the pivot thread, which is centrally placed in the hinge. As mentioned previously, greater numbers of warp threads can be employed in the hinge. Also, it should be noted that the first hinge'opens in a direction opposite to that of the second hinge showing the weaving on both sides of the hinge.
  • picks 1 and 6 are the same, picks 2 and 4 are the same, and picks 3 and 5 are the same. Any differences between the foregoing pairs of picks occur in the table sections. For this particular weaving sequence, the changes in the table area rendering these picks different are primarily designed to place picks 2 and 3 and 4 and 5 in the same shed in the table section while maintaining them in single sheds in the hinge sections as explained above.
  • the weaving of the hinges in a horizontal as opposed to a vertical manner could be quite advantageous.
  • the weaving of horizontal hinges for drapery fabrics makes possible the weaving of such draperies in continuous lengths without need of seams.
  • the selvage is a finished edge, only one edge needs to be finished.
  • any type of yarn or thread can be employed in this invention.
  • natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool and silk can be used as well as man made textile fibers such as those derived by chemical synthesis such as nylon; those having a cellulose base as rayon; those having a protein base as Vicara; those having a mineral base as glass; and rubber, including Lastex.
  • Materials other than textile materials and fibers can also be used.
  • grasses, including fibers and reeds, taken from ramie, jute, hemp, young bamboo and the like can be utilized.
  • other pliable materials including paper, wood, leather, metal wires, strips and filaments, plastic strips, filaments and the like can also be used in the present invention.
  • FIGS. 7 through 10 By arranging the forward projecting hinges and the backward projecting hinges in various combinations, interesting effects can be created. Some of these are illustrated in FIGS. 7 through 10.
  • FIG. 7 includes hinges which all project in the same direction resulting in an undulating, wavelike effect.
  • FIG. 8 uses a combination of two forward projecting hinges alternating with two backwardly projecting hinges to produce a box type of pleat.
  • a forward projecting hinge is alternated with a backward projecting hinge to produce an accordian type of fold as shown in greater detail in FIG. 1.
  • FIG. 10 shows the alteration of one forward projecting hinge with two backward projecting hinges to give a very unusual and interesting effect as shown.
  • novel weave of the invention described above is comprised essentially of a section having a pivot point with groups of three or more threads on each side.
  • a float yarn is interlaced with the void, thread or groups of threads making up the pivot point while floating over the remaining threads.
  • the float thread which creates a hinging effect is locked into place by providing a greater density of weave around the float thread than is found in the body of the remaining weave in the cloth.
  • the novel weave of the invention provides a cloth having an inherent tendency to fold or crease along a pivot point due to the tension created by a hinging float thread interwoven with a pivot point and floating over surrounding threads.
  • the novel weave of the invention is not limited to common weaving techniques and can be created by those skilled in the art through various other cloth making techniques.
  • the techniques include among others stitching, knitting and crocheting by hand or by machines. Examples of stitching or weaving machines employing stitching, weaving and/or knitting techniques which can be used to produce the novel weave of the invention are the Malimo and Maliwatt machines licensed by Crompton Knolls Co. in North America.
  • a fabric weave including hinge sections having a weave which is more dense that the remainder of the fabric weave, each hinge section comprising:
  • a group of threads including hinging float threads substantially all of which cross said pivot point on the same side at intervals along the length thereof and float over at least some of the group of aligned threads to each side of said pivot point; substantially all of the remainder of said crosswise threads crossing said pivot point on the side opposite to that crossed by said hinging float threads and being at least partially interlaced with said group of aligned threads to each side of said pivot point to provide a relatively dense weave to hold the hinging float threads in place.
  • said pivot point is a void substantially central to said group of aligned threads
  • said pivot point is at least one of said aligned threads and is substantially central to said group of aligned threads.
  • a fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 comprising:
  • table sections comprise substantially aligned threads interlaced with substantially parallel crosswise threads
  • said group of aligned threads is comprised of warp ends
  • said group of crosswise threads is comprised of fill picks
  • each of said float picks lies in its own shed in the table section;
  • each of the remaining fill picks in the table section lies in a shed with at least one other fill pick in the 'table section and lies in its own shed in the hinge section;
  • each float pick is held in place by at least one fill pick lying above and at least one fill pick lying below each float pick.
  • Afabric weave as claimed in claim 3 comprising:
  • table sections comprise substantially aligned threads interlaced with substantially parallel crosswise threads
  • said group of aligned threads is comprised of fill picks
  • said group of crosswise threads is comprised of warp ends;
  • each of said hinging float warp ends is interlaced by substantially every fill pick in said table section;
  • each of said remaining warp ends is interlaced in groups of at least two in said table section and singly in said hinge section except for said filling pivot point, which is predominantly made to float over said flll picks while interlacing said hinging float warp ends;
  • each hinging float warp end has at least one warp end on either side of it.
  • each hinge section is in alternate reverse relationship to each other hinge section.
  • each hinge section is in the same relationship to each other hinge section.
  • hinge sections are arranged so that two adjacent hinge sections are in alternate reverse relationship to the next two adjacent hinge sections.
  • hinge sections are arranged so that two adjacent hinge sections are in alternate reverse relationship to the next adjacent hinge section.
  • a process comprising:
  • crossing said group of aligned threads with a group of crosswise threads including hinging float threads substantially all of which are made to cross said pivot point on the same side at intervals along its length and which float over at least some of said aligned threads to each side of said pivot point;
  • said pivot point is a void substantially central to said group of aligned threads
  • said pivot point is at least one of said aligned threads and is substantially central to said group of aligned threads.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Abstract

A novel fabric weave providing integrally woven folds or creases. Each fold has a weave characterized by a void, a pivot thread or a group of threads which run the length of the fold and act as the point of creasing in the fold. The pivot thread or group of threads are interlaced as one at intervals along the length of the pivot thread or threads by a plurality of float threads. The float threads float or pass over at least three of the threads lying on each side of the pivot thread or group of threads. Above and below the float threads are one or more holding threads which hold the float threads in place. The tension created by the float threads along either side of the pivot thread or threads causes a natural and inherent tendency of the fabric weave to form a fold or crease which is permanent. The novel weave of the invention is particularly suited for the weaving of draperies.

Description

United States Patent [191 Small et al.
[ FABRIC WEAVE [76] Inventors: Kathryn Small, 1850 Fullerton;
Thomas Vranko, 970 19th St., both of Costa Mesa, Calif. 92627 221 Filed: Aug.7, 1972 21' Appl. No.: 278,189
52] US. Cl. 139/383 R, 139/416 [51] Int. Cl. D03d 13/00 [58] Field of Search 139/383 R, 384 R, 416, 139/417, 420 R, 426 R [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 553,759 1/1896 Magrane 139/384 R 1,817,716 8/1931 Stam 139/416 1,827,278 10/1931 Brice 139/416 X 2,079,831 5/1937 Bauer, Jr. et al. 139/384 R 2,093,187 9/1937 Burke et a1. 139/384 R 2,125,422 8/1938 Bosworth 139/383 R 2,359,953 10/1944 Whewell et al. 139/416 FitzGibbon Neisler, Jr. 139/383 R 11] 3,822,727 5] July 9,1974
Primary Examiner.1ames Kee Chi Attorney, Agent, or FirmGeorge 'F. Bethe] [5 7] ABSTRACT A novel fabric weave providing integrally woven folds or creases. Each fold has a weave characterized by a void, a pivot thread or a group of threads which run the length of the fold and act as the point of creasing in the fold. The pivot thread or group of threads are interlaced as one at intervals along the length of the pivot thread or threads by a plurality of float threads. The float threads float or pass over at least three of the threads lying on each side of the pivot thread or group of threads. Above and below the float threads are one or more holding threads which hold the float threads in place. The tension created by the float threads along either side of the pivot thread or threads causes a natural and inherent tendency of the fabric weave to form a fold or crease which is permanent.
The novel weave of the invention is particularly suited for the weaving of draperies.
15 Claims, 10 Drawing Figures PATENTEDJIIL 9I97II 3.822.727
I SIIEEIZIIFZII PICK I TABLE: I-IINGEI TABLE| I-IINGEZ -TABLE FLOAT I l00Ooooooo ooooO0000000 I I I I I I I I I 3MMNWWWA I I 4% Y I I I I I l I I I I I I FLOAT 6 I PICK I I I I I I I I mm I I I -I I I I I I I I I I I 3/AWWWW' I I, I
I I I I I I l I I I I FIG. 7 FIG-8 FIG.|O
FABRIC WEAVE BACKGROUND OF THE A INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to the field of weaving and is particularly directed to a novel weave which causes an inherent tendency of such a woven cloth to crease or fold.
2. Description of the Prior Art The history of weaving goes back as far as civilization itself. Throughout this time man has used various pliable materials in endless patterns to form simple and complicated weaves. The possible combinations are almost endless, being limited only by mans imagination. Until the present time, however, no weave has been thought of which creates in a woven fabric an inherent tendency to crease or fold.
The advantages of such a weave will be immediately apparent to anyone working in the field of draperies or drapery cleaning. Folds and creases are presently introduced into drapery fabrics by means of heat and/or pressure. Such heat pressed folds are only temporary in nature and require renewing on each cleaning of the drapery fabric. The tedious process necessary to recrease and fold cleaned draperies makes the cost of cleaning draperies almost prohibitive. In some cases, the cost approaches the value of thedraperies themselves. Furthermore, the creasing or pleating of draperies if not properly aligned results in sagging and uneven lines.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION A novel weave has now been invented which creates an inherent tendency in a cloth containing such a weave to fold or crease. The inventive fabric weave is made up of two basic parts: a table section and a fold or hinge section. These two basic parts are alternated in various patterns to create special effects. The table sections contain the basic weave of the cloth and are not limited as to the type of weave contained therein. By contrast, the hinge sections are woven in a special way to create the tendency in thecloth to fold.
The hinge section contains a pivot point comprised of a void, a thread, or a group of threads which run the length of the fold. On either side of the pivot point are groups of three or more threads which form the sides of the fold. In the crosswise direction, float threads occur at intervals along the length of the hinge. Each float thread is interlaced with the pivot point when it is comprised of a thread or group of threads and floats over the groups of threads in the hinge found on either side of the pivot point. Additional crosswise threads are interwoven or'interlaced with the groups of three or more threads occurring on either side of the pivot threads in normal weaving sequence. These latter threads act to hold the float threads in place.
Each of the float threads acts to pull the sides of the hinge or fold together creating a crease along the pivot point. It is important that each float thread along the same hinge be interlaced with the pivot point on the same side. This way each float thread pulls the hinge sides in the same direction. Otherwise, the tensions created by the float threads would tend to counteract each other resulting in a flat weave rather than a hinge or fold.
The advantages of the novel fabric weave of the invention which causes the fabric to have an inherent tendency to fold or crease are many. By weaving the crease or fold into the fabric, such a crease or fold can be perfectly aligned in the length or in the crosswise direction. As a result, the finished drapery can be made to hang perfectly straight without further treatment contributing to its overall beauty and usefulness.
Such woven folds or creases are permanent and will not be removed upon dry cleaning. Considerable cost savings are thereby realized at no additional cost in the manufacture of the draperies. In fact, such drapery manufacture may in many cases be reduced since additional pressing steps are not required.
Additionally, since the fabric has an inherent tendency to fold, an effect similar to that of pinch pleated draperies can be had simply by running a rod through a casing made at the top of the drapery and gathering the material along the rod. Another advantage is the many different effects which can be created by varying the arrangement and direction of the folds or creases. Thus, for example, box pleats can be created as well as an undulating wavelike configuration. Many other combinations are possible providing a wide range of applications.
The invention will most likely find its greatest application in the drapery field. Its use, however, is not limited thereto. Certainly, the garment and accessory fields can also extensively utilize this invention. The novel weave of the invention is described in its particularity by reference to fabrics. It is intended however, that the principles of this invention be applied to the weaving of any pliable materials. For example, grasses, bamboo, leather, metal wire or strips, and plastic strips or strands can also be used. The advantages and applications of such materials will be apparent to those skilled in the art.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The invention will be more clearly understood by reference to the description below taken in connection with the accompanying drawings wherein:
FIG. 1 shows a perspective elevation of a woven cloth containing table and hinge sections alternating to create an accordian type of folding;
FIG. 2 shows a perspective elevation of the cloth of FIG. 1 which has been stretched out to show the front and back of the hinges;
FIG. 3 shows an enlarged detailed view of a section of the table shown from the direction of lines 33 of FIG. 2;
' FIG. 4 shows an enlarged detailed view of a section of the front of a hinge shown from the direction of lines 4-4 of FIG. 2;
FIG. 5 shows an enlarged detailed view of a section of the back of a hinge as shown from the direction of lines 55 of FIG. 2;
FIG. 6 shows an example of a typical weaving sequence which can be used to form two opposed hinge sections alternating with table sections;
FIGS. 7, 8, 9, and 10 show several effects which can be created by the selective alteration of the hinges of the invention; and,
FIG. 9 also shows a plan view of the cloth of FIG. 1.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Referring now to FIG. 1, there is shown a cloth which is woven in accordance with the principles of the invention. As shown, the cloth is made up of alternating sec tions. The basic weave making up table sections 12 alternate with hinge sections 14 and 16. Each hinge section 14 is a forward projecting hinge while each hinge section 16 is a backward projecting hinge. The hinge sections 14 and 16 are the same, one being the reverse side of the other. The backward projecting hinges 16 can be seen in the flattened cloth of FIG. 2.
FIG. 3 shows a detailed view of the weave of the table section 12 of FIG. 2 as shown from the direction 3-3. It can be seen that the warp ends 18 are alternately interwoven or interlaced with fill or weft picks 20 and 22. The weft or fill picks 20 in the table weave become the float picks 20 in the hinge weave. It should be noted that these float picks 20 lie in their own shed in the table section 12. That is, each of the float picks 20 is interlaced with .the warp ends 18 by itself rather than being grouped together with another fill pick as is the case with the remaining fill picks 22. The purpose of this is to securely hold the float pick 20 in the table weave so that the tension created in the hinge weave by the float picks 20 is not loosened or equalized in the table weave:
Also, it should be noted that the fill picks 22 are grouped in pairs which lie in the same shed in the table weave. These same fill picks 22 are separated in the hinge sections 14 and 16 and lie in separate sheds. The purpose of this is to provide a means for creating a greater density in the hinge section as compared to that in the table weave section. The greater density in the hinge section acts to hold the float picks in place both in the table weave and hinge weave sections.
FIGS. 4 and shows an enlarged detailed view of the front and of the back respectively of the backward projecting hinge 16 of FIG. 2 as shown from the directions 4-4 and 5-5. Half of the hinge is shown in FIG. 4 and its reverse side is shown in FIG. 5.
As shown, the pivot point 24 is comprised of a group of four warp ends. The pivot point 24 is interlaced by two float picks 20. In FIG. 4, the float picks are shown to pass over the pivot point 24 and under the remaining warp ends 25 in the hinge section. Conversely, on the opposite side of the hinge as shown in FIG. 5, each of the float picks passes under the pivot point 24 and over the remaining warp threads in the hinge section. While only half of the hinge is shown, it is representative of what happens on both sides of the pivot point 24.
Above and below the float picks 20 are interwoven the fill picks 22. As mentioned above, these picks act to hold the float pick 20 in place. Also, as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5 each of the filling picks 22 lies in its own shed in the hinge section. However, as can be seen in the beginning portion of the table section in FIGS. 4 and 5, these filling picks 22 join together in the table section to lie in the same shed.
It is also of particular note that the float pick 20 always catches or interlaces the group of pivoting threads 24 on the same side along the length of the hinge. In the forward projecting hinges 14 the side of which is shown in FIG. 4, the appearance along the length of the pivoting thread is like a ladder. The remaining fill picks 22 as shown in FIGS. 4 and S, are all made to interlace with the pivot threads 24 on the same side which is opposite to that interlaced by the float picks 20. The purpose of this is to prevent any equalizing of the tension created by the float picks 20, which would neutralize the tendency to fold.
It should also be noted that the interlacing of the float picks 22 with the warp ends 18 immediately adjacent the pivot threads 24 is symmetrical. While this step is not critical, it is preferred since it creates a straight hanging hinge. When the weaving is unsymmetrical on either side of the pivot threads 24, there is a tendency for the pivot point 24 to be pulled out of line. For this same reason, it is preferred that there be an equal number of warp ends 25 on either side of the pivot threads 24 so that it lies substantially in the center of the hinge. If this criteria is not met, the hinge will still function. However, it will not hang as straight or be as attractive as if the pivot point 24 were in the center of the hinge.
Also, it has been found that there should be at least three warp ends 25 lying on each side of the pivot point 24 to provide the necessary tension or pulling action on the sides of the hinge. When fewer warp ends 25 are present, as for example two, the tension is equalized. Usually, in order to maintain a symmetrical weaving sequence, there will normally be three or an uneven number of warp ends lying on each side of the pivot point 24 in the hinge section.
Best results are obtained when symmetry of the weaving above and below the float pick 20 is maintained. For this end there should be at least two filling picks 22 lying above and below the float pick 20. Symmetry of weave is not critical but results in a better weave. Thus, the preferred weave in the hinge section can be considered to be composed of five fill picks. These five picks would consist of the two fill picks 22 lying above a float pick 20 and two more fill picks 22 lying below the float pick. Between these groups of five virtually any desired weaving sequence is possible as long as the overall density of the hinge section is greater than that of the table weave.
As shown in FIGS. 4 and 5 the float picks 20 can be made to occur quite close to one another. This is not necessary, however. Several float picks 20 can occur in succession as long as they lie in their own shed. Preferably, the occurance of the float picks 20 ranges from as close as every fourth fill thread allowing for one fill pick above and below each float pick to hold it in place, to as great as one float pick every two to three inches. However, with only two fill picks between each float pick, symmetry around the pivot point is difficult to maintain. Furthermore, it is more difficult to create a higher density in the hinged section as opposed to the table section. It is preferred then to have at least two fill picks above and below each float pick and to have approximately one to four float picks to each linear inch of hinge.
The exact number of float threads to be used per linear inch of hinge depends on many variables. Some of these include the type of fabric, the tightness of the weave, the type of yarn used including its strength, bulk, resiliency, texture, weight and content. The best determination can be arrived at by a trial and error method using the guidelines presented herein.
The pivot point 24 of the hinge can be comprised of a void, a thread, or a group of threads. A void is created by skipping a dent when drawing the warp ends through the reed whereby a space is created where a warp end would have been placed. This results in the float pick floating over all of the warp ends in the hinge. Nevertheless, the hinge is still maintained as the void acts as the point of pivoting for the hinge. The latter is not a preferred procedure. However, it is workable.
The choice of one or more threads to act as a pivot point will depend upon the aesthetic design of the weave as well as the density and weight of the yarn used. In general, for bulky yarns the pivot point would most likely consistof a slightly heavier thread. When finer yarns are being woven, the better choice would probably be several threads instead of just one.
It is important to maintain a greater density of weave I in the hinge section than in the table weave sections.
There are several ways that this can be achieved. In the examples shown in the figures, the greater density in the hinge is created primarily by having a greater number of interlacings or intersections in the hinge sections. This is made possible by weaving two of the filling picks 22 in the same shed in the table section and then weaving them in single sheds in the hinge section.
Other techniques are well known in the weaving art for increasing the density of the weave. In general, the density of the woven cloth depends mainly on three factors: the density of the yarns used, the balance of warp and fill threads, and the manner of drawing the warp threads through the dents, or spaces in the reed of the loom. An alteration of any one of these factors will affect the final density of the cloth.
As mentioned above, the density in the hinge section can be increased over that of the table weave by increasing the number of intersections in the hinge area.
The density is also affected by the pressure applied to the fill picks after each pass of the shuttle. Perhaps more important to the final density of the cloth is the last factor mentioned, which is the manner of drawing the warp ends through the reed of the loom.
Normally, one warp end is passed through each dent or space in the reed. However, by skipping dents or spaces in the reed, the density of the final woven cloth will be reduced. By contrast, placing two or more warp ends through the same space or dent in the reed will have the effect of increasing density of the final woven cloth. It will be apparent that in threading the warp ends through the reed, it will be possible to skip dents while threading warp ends in the table section while at the same time placing two or more warp ends in the same dents of the hinge section. This practice can be used to augment other means for increasing the density of the hinge section or may be used alone in some instances. 7
Another technique which can be used to increase hinge density is to employ a leno weave which is an open weave in which pairs of warp yarns cross one another. The filling yarn is thereby locked into position.
Various other methods of increasing the density of a cloth will be apparent to those skilled in the art and may be resorted to without departing from the invention.
Referring now to FIG. 6, there is shown a schematic representation of a preferred weaving sequence, including three table sections alternating with a front projecting fold or hinge section and a backward projecting fold or hinge section.
While the weaving sequence is begun with a float pick, it should be remembered that it is preferred that each float pick be held in place in the weave by a pair of fill picks lying above and below the float pick.
The warp ends in FIG. 6 are represented by dots. The float picks and the filling picks are both represented by a continuous line which is made to pass over and under the warp ends. Each pick sequence is numbered as shown from 1 to 6. Also, while the table section shows only five warp ends, it should be remembered that this is only representative and in most cases many more warp ends will be used. Similarly, the hinge section em ploys three warp ends on each side of the pivot thread, which is centrally placed in the hinge. As mentioned previously, greater numbers of warp threads can be employed in the hinge. Also, it should be noted that the first hinge'opens in a direction opposite to that of the second hinge showing the weaving on both sides of the hinge.
A careful examination of the picks shown in FIG. 6 shows that for the hinged areas alone, that picks 1 and 6 are the same, picks 2 and 4 are the same, and picks 3 and 5 are the same. Any differences between the foregoing pairs of picks occur in the table sections. For this particular weaving sequence, the changes in the table area rendering these picks different are primarily designed to place picks 2 and 3 and 4 and 5 in the same shed in the table section while maintaining them in single sheds in the hinge sections as explained above.
There is nothing critical about the sequence of the picks shown in FIG. 6. They are merely presented to illustrate more clearly one embodiment of the invention.
'Using the same picks shown in FIG. 6, other sequences of weaves can be employed. For example, a workable sequence which would include seven picks between each float thread is as follows: picks 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. Another sequence which includes five fill picks between each float pick is as follows: picks 6, 5, 2, 3, 2, 5, 6.
Two other alternates to that shown in FIG. 6 and using four fill picks between each float pick are as follows: picks 6, 5, 2, 3, 4, 6, 4, 3, 2, 5 and the other picks 1, 3, 4, 5, 2. In weaving the latter sequence, it may be continued in the same sequence or repeated from the end to the beginning as for example, following pick 2 would come picks 5, 4, 3, 1.
Another possible sequence utilizing three fill picks between each float pick is as follows: picks l, 3, 4, 3, 1.
In the foregoing sequences, it should be remembered that the float picks are numbered as 6 and 1. It can be seenthat above and below each of the float picks 6 and l is the same pick number. By this means, symmetry is maintained around each float pick interlacing as discussed above.
It is possible to design weave sequences which do not maintain symmetry at the float pick. While such sequences are not preferred, they are possible and will result in a hinging action. There will, however, be a slight tendency in the final weave for a pulling or twisting of the hinge pick which is caused by the unsymmetrical weaving. In some cases, this may be unnoticable or possibly even desired to create certain effects. An example of such a sequence utilizing the filling picks shown in FIG. 6 is as follows: picks 1, 3, 4, 6, 5, 2, l, 3, 4, 6.
The foregoing weaving sequences are intended only to be illustrative of the invention. They are not intended to be a limitation thereof. Other weaving sequences will be apparent to those skilled in the art and can be resorted to within the scope of the invention.
While the invention thus far has been described solely by reference to warp and fill threads, as with all weaving, the entire weave can be turned 90. The result is then that the pivot point is comprised of a void in the fill pick sequence or is comprised of one or more fill picks in the same shed. Similarly, the float pick be comes a float warp end. While it is more difficult to describe this weaving sequence when it is turned 90, due to the lack of descriptive language which corresponds to, for example, shed, dents, and the like, it is, nevertheless, a simple matter for a person skilled in the art of weaving.
In many instances, the weaving of the hinges in a horizontal as opposed to a vertical manner could be quite advantageous. For example, the weaving of horizontal hinges for drapery fabrics makes possible the weaving of such draperies in continuous lengths without need of seams. As an added advantage, since the selvage is a finished edge, only one edge needs to be finished.
Virtually any type of yarn or thread can be employed in this invention. Thus, natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool and silk can be used as well as man made textile fibers such as those derived by chemical synthesis such as nylon; those having a cellulose base as rayon; those having a protein base as Vicara; those having a mineral base as glass; and rubber, including Lastex. Materials other than textile materials and fibers can also be used. For example, grasses, including fibers and reeds, taken from ramie, jute, hemp, young bamboo and the like can be utilized. Additionally, other pliable materials including paper, wood, leather, metal wires, strips and filaments, plastic strips, filaments and the like can also be used in the present invention.
By arranging the forward projecting hinges and the backward projecting hinges in various combinations, interesting effects can be created. Some of these are illustrated in FIGS. 7 through 10.
As shown, FIG. 7 includes hinges which all project in the same direction resulting in an undulating, wavelike effect. FIG. 8 uses a combination of two forward projecting hinges alternating with two backwardly projecting hinges to produce a box type of pleat. In FIG. 9 a forward projecting hinge is alternated with a backward projecting hinge to produce an accordian type of fold as shown in greater detail in FIG. 1. FIG. 10 shows the alteration of one forward projecting hinge with two backward projecting hinges to give a very unusual and interesting effect as shown.
Certainly other combinations are possible and will be apparent to those skilled in the art. The novel weave of the invention described above is comprised essentially of a section having a pivot point with groups of three or more threads on each side. A float yarn is interlaced with the void, thread or groups of threads making up the pivot point while floating over the remaining threads. In addition, the float thread which creates a hinging effect is locked into place by providing a greater density of weave around the float thread than is found in the body of the remaining weave in the cloth.
Thus, the novel weave of the invention provides a cloth having an inherent tendency to fold or crease along a pivot point due to the tension created by a hinging float thread interwoven with a pivot point and floating over surrounding threads.
The novel weave of the invention is not limited to common weaving techniques and can be created by those skilled in the art through various other cloth making techniques. The techniques include among others stitching, knitting and crocheting by hand or by machines. Examples of stitching or weaving machines employing stitching, weaving and/or knitting techniques which can be used to produce the novel weave of the invention are the Malimo and Maliwatt machines licensed by Crompton Knolls Co. in North America.
Various modifications of the invention are contemplated and can be resorted to by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the following appended claims.
We claim:
1. A fabric weave including hinge sections having a weave which is more dense that the remainder of the fabric weave, each hinge section comprising:
a group of generally aligned threads having a substantially central pivot point;
a group of threads including hinging float threads substantially all of which cross said pivot point on the same side at intervals along the length thereof and float over at least some of the group of aligned threads to each side of said pivot point; substantially all of the remainder of said crosswise threads crossing said pivot point on the side opposite to that crossed by said hinging float threads and being at least partially interlaced with said group of aligned threads to each side of said pivot point to provide a relatively dense weave to hold the hinging float threads in place.
2. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein:
said pivot point is a void substantially central to said group of aligned threads; and,
wherein substantially all of said hinging float threads float over substantially all of said group of aligned threads at intervals along the length thereof and on the same side.
3. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein:
said pivot point is at least one of said aligned threads and is substantially central to said group of aligned threads.
4. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 comprising:
table sections and hinge sections alternating one with another;
wherein said table sections comprise substantially aligned threads interlaced with substantially parallel crosswise threads;
and in said hinge sections said group of aligned threads is comprised of warp ends;
wherein said group of crosswise threads is comprised of fill picks; and,
each of said float picks lies in its own shed in the table section; and,
each of the remaining fill picks in the table section lies in a shed with at least one other fill pick in the 'table section and lies in its own shed in the hinge section; and,
each float pick is held in place by at least one fill pick lying above and at least one fill pick lying below each float pick. A
5. Afabric weave as claimed in claim 3 comprising:
table sections and hinge sections alternating one with another; and,
wherein said table sections comprise substantially aligned threads interlaced with substantially parallel crosswise threads;
and in said hinge sections; said group of aligned threads is comprised of fill picks; and,
wherein said group of crosswise threads is comprised of warp ends; and,
each of said hinging float warp ends is interlaced by substantially every fill pick in said table section; and,
each of said remaining warp ends is interlaced in groups of at least two in said table section and singly in said hinge section except for said filling pivot point, which is predominantly made to float over said flll picks while interlacing said hinging float warp ends; and,
each hinging float warp end has at least one warp end on either side of it.
6. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein: there is at least one hinging float thread for each three linear inches of pivot point.
7. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 4 wherein the density of the weave in the hinge sections is made b. drawing a greater number of warp ends through each of the dents of the reed in the hinge sections than in the table sections.
9. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein:
the hinge sections are arranged so that each hinge section is in alternate reverse relationship to each other hinge section.
10. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein:
the hinge sections are arranged so that each hinge section is in the same relationship to each other hinge section.
11. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein:
the hinge sections are arranged so that two adjacent hinge sections are in alternate reverse relationship to the next two adjacent hinge sections.
12. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein:
the hinge sections are arranged so that two adjacent hinge sections are in alternate reverse relationship to the next adjacent hinge section.
13. A process comprising:
providing a group of aligned threads having a substantially central pivot point;
crossing said group of aligned threads with a group of crosswise threads including hinging float threads substantially all of which are made to cross said pivot point on the same side at intervals along its length and which float over at least some of said aligned threads to each side of said pivot point;
crossing the remaining threads of said group of crosswise threads with said group of aligned threads to provide a relatively dense weave to hold said hinging float threads in place;
wherein substantially all of said hinging float threads cross said pivot point on the same side, with substantially all of the remainder of said group of crosswise threads cross'ing said pivot point on the side opposite to that of said hinging float threads.
14. A process as claimed in claim 13 wherein:
said pivot point is a void substantially central to said group of aligned threads; and,
wherein substantially all of said hinging float threads float over substantially all of said group of aligned threads at intervals along the length thereof and on the same side.
15. A process as claimed in claim 13 wherein:
said pivot point is at least one of said aligned threads and is substantially central to said group of aligned threads.

Claims (15)

1. A fabric weave including hinge sections having a weave which is more dense that the remainder of the fabric weave, each hinge section comprising: a group of generally aligned threads having a substantially central pivot point; a group of threads including hinging float threads substantially all of which cross said pivot point on the same side at intervals along the length thereof and float over at least some of the group of aligned threads to each side of said pivot point; substantially all of the remainder of said crosswise threads crossing said pivot point on the side opposite to that crossed by said hinging float threads and being at least partially interlaced with said group of aligned threads to each side of said pivot point to provide a relatively dense weave to hold the hinging float threads in place.
2. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein: said pivot point is a void substantially central to said group of aligned threads; and, wherein substantially all of said hinging float threads float over substantially all of said group of aligned threads at intervals along the length thereof and on the same side.
3. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein: said pivot point is at least one of said aligned threads and is substantially central to said group of aligned threads.
4. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 comprising: table sections and hinge sections alternating one with another; wherein said table sections comprise substantially aligned threads interlaced with substantially parallel crosswise threads; and in said hinge sections said group of aligned threads is comprised of warp ends; wherein said group of crosswise threads is comprised of fill picks; and, each of said float pIcks lies in its own shed in the table section; and, each of the remaining fill picks in the table section lies in a shed with at least one other fill pick in the table section and lies in its own shed in the hinge section; and, each float pick is held in place by at least one fill pick lying above and at least one fill pick lying below each float pick.
5. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 3 comprising: table sections and hinge sections alternating one with another; and, wherein said table sections comprise substantially aligned threads interlaced with substantially parallel crosswise threads; and in said hinge sections; said group of aligned threads is comprised of fill picks; and, wherein said group of crosswise threads is comprised of warp ends; and, each of said hinging float warp ends is interlaced by substantially every fill pick in said table section; and, each of said remaining warp ends is interlaced in groups of at least two in said table section and singly in said hinge section except for said filling pivot point, which is predominantly made to float over said fill picks while interlacing said hinging float warp ends; and, each hinging float warp end has at least one warp end on either side of it.
6. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein: there is at least one hinging float thread for each three linear inches of pivot point.
7. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 4 wherein the density of the weave in the hinge sections is made greater than the density of the weave in the table sections by employing a leno weave in the hinge sections.
8. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 4 wherein said means for increasing density of weave in the hinge sections comprises: a. weaving a greater number of interlacings in the hinge sections as compared with the table sections; b. drawing a greater number of warp ends through each of the dents of the reed in the hinge sections than in the table sections.
9. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein: the hinge sections are arranged so that each hinge section is in alternate reverse relationship to each other hinge section.
10. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein: the hinge sections are arranged so that each hinge section is in the same relationship to each other hinge section.
11. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein: the hinge sections are arranged so that two adjacent hinge sections are in alternate reverse relationship to the next two adjacent hinge sections.
12. A fabric weave as claimed in claim 1 wherein: the hinge sections are arranged so that two adjacent hinge sections are in alternate reverse relationship to the next adjacent hinge section.
13. A process comprising: providing a group of aligned threads having a substantially central pivot point; crossing said group of aligned threads with a group of crosswise threads including hinging float threads substantially all of which are made to cross said pivot point on the same side at intervals along its length and which float over at least some of said aligned threads to each side of said pivot point; crossing the remaining threads of said group of crosswise threads with said group of aligned threads to provide a relatively dense weave to hold said hinging float threads in place; wherein substantially all of said hinging float threads cross said pivot point on the same side, with substantially all of the remainder of said group of crosswise threads crossing said pivot point on the side opposite to that of said hinging float threads.
14. A process as claimed in claim 13 wherein: said pivot point is a void substantially central to said group of aligned threads; and, wherein substantially all of said hinging float threads float over substantially all of said group of aligned threads at intervals along the length thereof and on the same side.
15. A process as claimed in claim 13 wherein: said piVot point is at least one of said aligned threads and is substantially central to said group of aligned threads.
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WO2019116792A1 (en) * 2017-12-15 2019-06-20 東レ株式会社 Woven fabric and method for manufacturing same
JPWO2019116792A1 (en) * 2017-12-15 2020-10-22 東レ株式会社 Woven fabric and its manufacturing method
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CN108048997A (en) * 2018-01-04 2018-05-18 浙江纺织服装职业技术学院 A kind of woven fabric with bouffancy effect
US10609986B2 (en) 2018-03-23 2020-04-07 Reebok International Limited Articles of footwear having a leno woven upper with stretch zones
US11172732B2 (en) 2018-03-23 2021-11-16 Reebok International Limited Articles of footwear having a leno woven upper with stretch zones

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