Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
  • D06C29/00—Finishing or dressing, of textile fabrics, not provided for in the preceding groups
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
  • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
  • D06C7/02—Setting

Definitions

• a stretch fabric is made from staple fibre yarn of isotactic polypropylene, nylon, or cellulose triacetate by weaving the yarn, stretching the fabric in the direction of one set of yarns while allowing relaxation in the direciton of the other set of yarns to eifect crimp in the other set of yarns by crimp interchange and heat-setting the crimp while maintaining the tension in the first set of yarns.
• This invention relates to woven fabrics having stretch characteristics.
• Woven fabrics having stretch characteristics in the Warp or Weft are known. They may be produced by known methods comprising incorporating a stretchable filament yarn which has adequate elastic elongation properties in the warp or weft of the fabric.
• Suitable elastic filament yarns comprise crimped yarns such as Ban-Ion which is a stutter box crimped yarn, Helanca, which is a twist crimped yarn, or elastomeric yarns such as Lycra. Banlon, Helanca and Lycra are registered trademarks.
• Another method comprises treating the fabric with chemical setting agents.
• a woven fabric as defined which has stretch characteristics and which may be elongated by at least 10 and up to 40% under a load of 2 kgs. on a 2 inch strip of the fabric in one direction i.e. either in the warp or the weft, due to yarn crimp which has been imparted by crimp interchange and fixed by a heat treatment between the two sets of yarns in fabric form; the said yarns lying substantially parallel but out of phase with the crimps in neighbouring yarns, at least the yarns with the yarn crimp comprising at least a major proportion of, thermoplastic fibres and the yarns in the transverse direction also comprising thermoplastic fibres and also lying substantially parallel, in straight lines but substantially in one plane when the fabric is supported on a fiat planar surface, in which the fabric has a cover factor D, as defined, from 10.5 to 15 and in which the yarns are staple spun yarns of substantially circular section having a count in singles form of 1/8 to 1/ s cotton count, the yarns
• Suitable thermoplastic fibres for making yarns for use in our fabrics comprise fibres made from isotactic polypropylene, polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 6:6 and cellulose triacetate.
• the yarns may be made in conventional manner by spinning said fibres, preferably from crimped fibres, having a staple length between 1% and 8 inches using sufficient twist during spinning to result in yarns having a substantially circular cross-section and which will result in only a small amount of distortion or flattening during crimp interchange.
• the yarns should have twist factors within the range of conventional weaving twist factors for that particular spinning system. We define twist factor as follows:
• Heating and stretching of the fabric during crimp interchange is carried out using dry heat.
• a preferred method of heating is a current of air heated to the required temperature.
• Suitable apparatus for heating and stretching may be provided on a conventional Melting temperature, C
• stenter which has been modified to impart the required stretch, heating and cooling, which are essential for the yarn crimp interchange treatment.
• Suitable modifications for imparting weft stretch comprise: (a) means for controlled stretching and heating in the same zone (b) fitting tension bars which Will not bend when the fabric is stretched 10-40% non-use of any means preventing free weft contraction e.g. pins (d) means for positive cooling after heating zone, e.g. with a cold air fan, whilst fabric remaining at imparted stretch tension.
• the imparted stretch characteristics we have found will not be durable to machine washing at elevated temperatures. Moreover the imparted stretch characteristics will be decreased below our specified level, and they will not have the desired recovery properties.
• Suitable temperatures during the crimp interchange treatment Will differ depending on the polymer from which the thermoplastic fibre component has been made. In the case of synthetic thermoplastic fibres, the fabric should not be preheated to within 50 C. to 120 C. of the melting temperature of the fibres or yarns from which the fabric has been made. Suitable temperatures for heating during the crimp interchange treatment are 20-80 C. below the melting temperature of fibres as already stated.
• D cotton count where D is 10.5 to 15 and the cotton count 1/ 8s to 1/80s. To convert the cotton count to the metric system the count number has to be multiplied by 0.59.
• Lubrication of the yarns in the fabric is of importance.
• the tension required to produce a crimp interchange is lower if inter-fibre and inter-yarn friction is low.
• Textile lubricants containing silicones are preferred.
• stretch characteristics we mean that the fabric can be elongated by at least 10% and up to 40% in at least one direction i.e. in the warp or weft direction and that this elongation under a load which must be below the elastic limit of the yarn crimp and not cause fibre rupture, is recoverable by at least i.e. when releasing the stretching force, the fabric will rapidly assume substantially its previous size and shape.
• a convenient minimum load is 2 kg. on a 2 inch strip of the fabric, as already stated.
• the fabrics suitable for our treatment can be stretched and recovered from stretch before the treatment, the amount of stretch is only about 1 to 5%; whereas after the treatment the fabrics assume the defined stretch characteristics and can be elongated by at least 10%, preferably 15-40%.
• warp stretch is required then warp crimp should be increased. This can be done by stretching the defined fabric in width so that weft crimp is removed. This causes the warp crimp to increase, by virtue of the crimp interchange properties of woven fabrics, and the correct amount of overfeed, the fabric will be reduced in length, as the warp crimp develops.
• Spun yarns are preferred to filament yarns for imparting the stretch properties to the fabric.
• the greatest possible amount of crimp interchange is required and this occurs with yarns which maintain their circular cross-section under transverse pressure against adjacent yarns.
• filament yarns are used which have low twist, flattening occurs with resulting filament separation at the bends and as a result such fabrics when subsequently stretched do not generate high yarn crimp by crimp interchange because of filament interference. Filament yarns should therefore not be used in the stretch direction of the fabric.
• the tensions required can be determined sufiiciently accurately by measuring the extension under loads which of course must be less than those which would ruin the fabric by breaking individual yarns. Tensions which result in extensions of 7-35 in one direction are preferred for our fabrics. During this tensioning the fabric is allowed to relax preferably by about 15-25% in the transverse direction in which the thermoplastic heat settable yarns are situated.
• the spacing between the yarns should be such as to allow movement of the yarns in the transverse direction when the other set of yarns is pulled into straight lines under high tension.
• C'IA 2 has a non-recoverable extension at 2 kg./2 strip of 3%.
• 2 CTA referred to hereinbefore denotes cellulose triacetate.
• the undulated yarns should consist of or contain at least a major proportion of fibres which during the heat treatment in the tensioned condition can be heat set in that position under conditions such that this setting becomes practically irreversible during any subsequent processing or during wear.
• the yarns or threads in one direction will be substantially straight and show a crimp elongation or undulation of less than 3% under a load of 0.5 g.p.d. whereas the yarns which are causing the stretch characteristics in the fabric will show a crimp elongation of at least and up to 50% under the same load.
• Singles yarns are preferred but folded yarns may be used, if desired e.g. 2/60s in one direction and 1/ s cotton count in the other direction.
• fabrics were woven to give the number of threads indicated, heat set after stretching in the warp direction, as indicated in the third column and resulting in the weft stretch and recovery properties as given in the 5th and 6th column. Further examples are given after the table which particularly illustrate the fabric 'Sett/ ins.
• EXAMPLE 2 A 100% cellulose triacetate, 1/ 12s cotton count plain Weave fabric having a square cover factor of 12.2 and which had not been heated in fabric form above 100 C. was treated at 180 C. for 30 seconds giving it a warp extension of 35% and allowing weft contraction of 20%, as indicated in the following table which also included the properties of the fabric before and after the treatment.
• EXAMPLE 3 A nylon 6:6 fabric woven plain from l/l2s cotton count yarn of substantially round cross section using 2 inch fibre in which the crimp had not been fixed by a heat treatment and having a square cover factor of 12.4 was stretched 11% in the warp direction allowing 24% weft relaxation, the fabric was heat treated under 7 such tensions at 210 C. for 30 seconds.
• the properties of the fabric before and after treatment are given in the table below.
• EXAMPLE 5 A plain weave fabric woven in 100% CTA from 1/12s cc. yarns was subjected to a heat treatment of 180 C. for 60 secs. during the fabric finishing sequence. This fabric was then extended 25% in the warp direction allowing 16% weft contraction, the fabric was heat treated during this crimp interchange stage process at 190 C. for 60 secs. The fabric details before and after treatment are given in the table.
• thermoplastic fibres selected from the group consisting of isotactic polypropylene fibres, nylon 6 fibres, nylon 6:6 fibres and cellulose triacetate fibres and imparting stretch characteristics to the fabrics, said process c mprising: preheating the fabric within the range C. C. for a fabric containing isotactic polypropylene fibres. 140 C.180 C. for a fabric containing nylon fibres and C.180 C.
• a process according to claim 1 comprising lubricating the yarns in the fabric before crimp interchange treatment.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
• Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
• Artificial Filaments (AREA)
• Spinning Methods And Devices For Manufacturing Artificial Fibers (AREA)

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Citations (3)

• 1965
  • 1965-01-22 GB GB2943/65A patent/GB1071542A/en not_active Expired
• 1966
  • 1966-01-21 US US522035A patent/US3486208A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1966-01-21 BE BE675453D patent/BE675453A/xx unknown
  • 1966-01-21 DE DE19661535471 patent/DE1535471A1/de active Pending
  • 1966-01-21 NL NL6600807A patent/NL6600807A/xx unknown
  • 1966-01-22 ES ES0322104A patent/ES322104A2/es not_active Expired
  • 1966-01-23 IL IL25033A patent/IL25033A/xx unknown
  • 1966-01-24 AT AT63466A patent/AT288278B/de active

Patent Citations (3)

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