US3445277A - Differential treatment for improving the shape holding properties of cellulosic fabrics - Google Patents

Differential treatment for improving the shape holding properties of cellulosic fabrics Download PDF

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US3445277A
US3445277A US420437A US3445277DA US3445277A US 3445277 A US3445277 A US 3445277A US 420437 A US420437 A US 420437A US 3445277D A US3445277D A US 3445277DA US 3445277 A US3445277 A US 3445277A
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fabric
creaseproofing
agent
coating
fabrics
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Leonard Smith
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/39Aldehyde resins; Ketone resins; Polyacetals
    • D06M15/423Amino-aldehyde resins

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  • a shape holding cellulosic fabric having high abrasion resistance is produced by treating it preferentially on one side; as by coating one side of the fabric with a thickened mixture of creaseproofing agent and catalyst and thereafter curing it, or by impregnating it with a liquid containing a curable creaseproofing agent and thereafter selectively poisoning the creaseproofing agent on one side of the fabric prior to curing, or by impregnating the fabric with a liquid containing a curable creaseproofing agent and thereafter flash drying the resulting wet impregnated fabric by selectively contacting one side thereof with the heated surface.
  • the invention causes the yarns composing the fabric to have along their length portions treated with a creaseproofing agent and ther portions relatively free from creaseproofing agent. This results in a shape holding fabric which has a higher abrasion resistance than similar shape holding fabrics whose yarns contain creaseproofing agent throughout.
  • This invention relates to the production of shape holding or crease resistant fabrics made from cotton, rayon or other cellulosic fibers or blends of such fibers with polyester, nylon and other synthetic fibers.
  • it relates to the production of crease resistant cotton fabrics by modifications of the conventional pad-dry-cure system and of the so-called delayed cure system. More particularly it relates to a new process for producing crease resistant cotton fabrics having superior strength and abrasion resistance. Still more particularly, it relates to a process for applying a creaseproofing agent to a cellulosic fabric in such a manner as to achieve differential distribution of the agent in the fabric and thereby to produce good crease resistance, good wash-and-wear properties as well as good abrasin resistance.
  • the textile industry has for years been applying to cellulosic fabrics various resinous precondensates and cellulose crosslinking agents along with necessary catalysts.
  • the application consists of impregnating the fabric with chemical agents, squeezing off excess liquor, drying the fabric, and then curing it at elevated temperatures to set the resins or to accomplish the crosslinking of the cellulose molecules.
  • Literally billions of yards of fabrics have been produced by this system.
  • More recently a modification has been introduced called the delayed cure process.
  • the chemically impregnated fabrics are dried but not cured. Then the fabrics are cut, made into garments, pressed into shape, and only then cured at elevated temperatures. While this technique of creaseproofing fabrics had produced garments with better appearance and better shape retention, it has not solved the serious problem of impaired wear or abrasion resistance of the final garment which all such creaseproofing techniques have tended to cause.
  • creaseproofing agent on the fabric, e.g., by having the agent present in a lower proportion on the face side of the fabric than on the back side.
  • the differential deposition of creaseproofing agent and other appropriate chemical adjuncts may be achieved by a variety of coating or modified impregnation techniques including the following:
  • COATING TECHNIQUES A Provide an aqueous coating composition containing a solution of the creaseproofing agent and catalyst thickened with water soluble thickener such as a hydroxylated polymer; apply the thickened coating composition preferentially to the back side of the fabric; and dry and cure the thus coated fabric at elevated temperature either immediately or dry only and then cure the fabric after it has been made into a garment.
  • water soluble thickener such as a hydroxylated polymer
  • a coating composition in the form of a high viscosity water-in-oil emulsion containing the creaseproofing agent and catalyst in the water phase; a water immiscible solvent in the oil phase; and an emulsifying agent at the interface; apply the emulsion to one side of the fabric then dry and cure as desired.
  • compositions as in A above each containing a different effective concentration of the creaseproofing agent and separately apply each coating composition to different sides of the fabric followed by drying or curing as desired.
  • compositions as in B above each containing a different effective concentration of the creaseproofing agent and separately apply each coating composition to different sides of the fabric followed by drying or curing as desired.
  • the thickened coating compositions used to coat the creaseproofing agent to one fabric side are formulated to a viscous consistency suitable for application in conventional textile coating equipment such as knife coaters, reverse roller coaters, kiss roll coaters, and other known types of coating machines. Accordingly, the thickened compositions used herein may range in viscosity from that corresponding to the consistency of light refined mineral oil to that corersponding to heavy molasses and generally in the range of 5-200 stokes, preferably between about 125 and 175 stokes.
  • the consistency of the coating composition and the interval between its application to the fabric and its drying should be such as to have a high degree of retention of the composition on the fabric side to which it has been applied, without allowing the applied composition to impregnate the fabric uniformly through to the opposite face.
  • Whether or not a particular composition has the viscosity and non-penetration characteristics best suited for the purposes of the present invention can be readily determined by a series of simple, preliminary tests, Typically, for instance, an individual yarn pulled from a woven cotton fabric which has had the creaseproofing agent differentially distributed therein in accordance with this invention should, when dyed with a dye which is substantive to the cellulose but not to the creaseproofing agent, exhibit a regular zebra-like or striated appearance. This is due to the fact that the yarn portions having the creaseproofing coating applied thereto will have a different color from the yarn portions which are free or relatively free of any such coating.
  • the thickening agent may be selected from the broad class of water soluble hydroxylated polymers, including such products as: hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl starch, polyvinyl alcohol, methyl cellulose, polyoxyethylene, carboxymethyl cellulose, natural gums, dextrins, or from other water soluble polymers as: polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrolein-bisulfite, deacetylated chitin acetate, alkylated polyethylene imine, polyglycols, and polyacrylic acid.
  • water soluble hydroxylated polymers including such products as: hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl starch, polyvinyl alcohol, methyl cellulose, polyoxyethylene, carboxymethyl cellulose, natural gums, dextrins, or from other water soluble polymers as: polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrolein-bisulfite, deacetylated chitin acetate, al
  • the various acidic or alkaline catalysts normally used for the setting process may be used as is otherwise well known in the art.
  • the creaseproofing agent is an aminoplast precondensate, a curable diepoxide, or an aldehyde such catalysts as zinc nitrate, zinc fiuoborate, magnesium chloride, ammonium sulfate, maleic acid, ammonium chloride, amine hydrochlorides and oxalic acid may be used.
  • the catalyst may be sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, etc.
  • Other acidic or alkaline catalysts may also be used.
  • the coating composition As a poison for the creaseproofing compound, there may be used in the coating composition: alcohols, glycols, urea, guanidine, thiourea, glycerol, glucose, formarnide, sodium bisulfite, hydroxylamine, and other compounds that can react with and thus deactivate the functional groups in the creaseproofing agent.
  • poisons for the catalyst in the coating mix there may be used neutralizing agents.
  • neutralizing agents for normal acid catalysts, there may be used as poisons: triethanolamine, sodium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, alkylamines, calcium carbonate, polyethylene imine, sodium acetate, potassium hydroxide, and the like.
  • glycine for normal alkaline cured creaseproofing systems, there may be used as poisons in the coating mix: glycine, glycolic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium acid sulfate, boric acid, citric acid, and the like.
  • solvent in the oil-in-water emulsion coating system there may be used the following: high boiling naphtha, xylene, carbon tetrachloride, high boiling esters, kerosene, mineral spirits, and the like.
  • the concentrations of creaseproofing agents, catalysts, softeners and other adjuncts in the treating formulations are so designed as to produce the desired balanced performance levels in the finished fabric.
  • adequate performance levels are obtained when the creaseproofing agent concentration is such as to produce a dry add-on in percent on the weight of dry fabric, of between 1 to 20%, preferably between 2 and
  • the catalyst is desirably present in concentration ranges from about 0.5 to 20%, preferably between 2 and 5 or 10%, by weight of the creaseproofing agent depending on time and temperature of the cure, as is otherwise Well known in the art.
  • Softeners if desired, can be added in concentrations ranging from 5 to 100%, preferably from 10 to 30%, based on the creaseproofing agent and depending on the degree of softness to be obtained.
  • the optimum concentrations of the various agents used depend, of course, on their chemical nature and interaction, and also somewhat on process conditions, especially on the specific conditions under which the treated fabric is cured, as can be readily determined by preliminary empirical tests. It is interesting to note, incidentally, that the amount of creaseproofing agent required to produce a given effect is generally smaller when the agent is applied differentially in accordance with the present invention than when the fabric is uniformly impregnated with the agent by conventional padding or the like. Maximum improvement in abrasion resistance is obtained when the creaseproofing agent is applied to the back fabric side only.
  • Example 1 A sample of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen was coated on the back side only with the following coating composition:
  • Aqueous solution of zinc nitrate catalyst (40% couc.)
  • Both the conventionally padded and the differentially coated samples were tested for crease resistance and for The fabric sample coated on one side only exhibited high crease recovery angles comparable to those found in the conventionally treated padded fabric, and this despite the fact that the coated fabric had less than one-half the resin add-on of the conventionally treated fabric.
  • An uncreaseproofed fabric has recovery angles of only 120 degrees.
  • the differentially coated fabric had 50% higher tensile strength than the conventionally padded sample. Most important, however, the abrasion resistance of the coated sample was vastly superior to that of the conventional treatment. This was particularly true of the uncoated face side, but even the coated side had very much better abrasion resistance than the conventionally treated fabric.
  • the oxidized polyethylene softener was included in t e formulations in accordance with conventional practice but could be omitted without adversely affecting improvement in abrasion resistance achieved by means of the present invention.
  • Example 2 Samples of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen were conventionally padded or differentially coated as. in Example 1 and dried only at 220 F. for 5 minutes. Thereafter they were made into mens trouser legs with cuffs, pressed into shape and only then cured for 5 minutes at 320 F. Sets of the two different trouser legs were subjected to 10 special, standardized wash cycles in an automatic home Washer. Both the conventionally treated sample and the differentially coated sample showed excellent wash and Wear and shape retention performance on washing. The conventionally treated sample, however, had begun to show small abrasion holes at the edge of the cuffs after 10 such wash cycles whereas the differentially coated sample showed no noticeable abrasion.
  • Example 3 Water-in-oil coating mixes of creaseproofing agent, catalyst and softener were prepared for one-sided coating on cotton fabric. These mixes contained:
  • Cut clear contains: 50% Amsco 46 high-boiling naphtha solvent;
  • Example 5 Samples of 100% cotton sateen were impregnated by padding through the solution of Example 1 and dried 5 minutes at 220 P. Then they were coated on the face with a water-in-oil resin poisoning mixture containing various amounts of urea.
  • the urea here was expected to Wyzenco-react with the creaseproofing agent in the fibers and Dry face Flll Tear beek h b d fit crease tensile, strength weal.
  • t ere y re uce its e ective COIICClltl'fltlOl'hOIl the face of Treatment o y lbs/m.
  • the three urea poisoning coatings contained:
  • Example 4 Samples of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen were coated as in Example 1 first on the back, followed by drying, then (except in A) on the face, followed by drying. Then they were cured 5 minutes at 320 F. In each coating, different amounts of the creaseproofing resin were used to give Two sets of each of these coatings were made. One set was thickened with the hydroxyethyl cellulose as in Example 1. The second set was prepared as a water-in-oil emulsion as in Example 3. The average results of these tests are given below and are again compared to the fabric which was conventionally treated as in Example 1:
  • Example 6 Samples of cotton sateen were knife coated on the back side with a creaseproofing mix containing:
  • Oxidized polyethylene dispersion (as in Example 1) 2.0 Aqueous solution of hydroxyethyl cellulose (2% solids) 74.4
  • the acrylic resin coating was applied to the face of the fabric to preserve its lustrous appearance through repeated laundering cycles, and to further improve its abrasion resistance.
  • differentially coated fabric has high crease resistance properties and higher strength and abrasion resistance than the conventionally padded fabric.
  • Example 7 A sample of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen was padded with the aminoplast solution described in Example 1, whereupon the back of the wet fabric was placed in contact for seconds with a metal plate heated to a surface temperature of 360-365 F. After this flash drying, the fabric sample was then dried an additional 5 minutes at 220 F. and cured 5 minutes at 320 F.
  • Example 8 A sample of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen was padded as in Example 7 and dried only at 220 F. for 5 minutes. This fabric sample was then coated on the face with a coating composition containing 1% sodium carbonate, 19% water, and 80% cut clear is described in Example 3. After coating the sample was dried 5 minutes at 220 F. and cured 5 minutes at 320 F. The alkaline coating was expected to poison the acid-reacting catalyst and thus prevent the fixation of the resin on the face of the fabric.
  • a process for producing a shape holding cellulosic yarn-containing fabric having improved abrasion resistance .and good flexibility which comprises preferentially placing a mixture of curable creaseproofing agent and curing catalyst in a liquid carrier on one face of said fabric, said mixture being thickened to a viscosity in the range of 5 to 200 stokes with a water soluble thickener to prevent substantially uniform impregnation thereof from the treated fabric face through the cellulosic yarns, and thereafter curing said creaseproofing agent on said fabric.
  • said fabric is selected from the group consisting of all cotton, cotton-polyester blends, and cotton-nylon blends.
  • said thickened mixture comprises about to water, about 5 to 15% dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea creaseproofing agent, about 0.5% to 3% inorganic zinc salt catalyst, and about 0.5% to 5% hydroxyethyl cellulose thickener, said mixture being applied to the fabric to produce thereon a dry add-on of creaseproofing agent of about 2% to 15 based on dry fabric weight.
  • a process according to claim 2 which comprises the steps of drying the coated fabric rat a temperature lower than curing temperature, cutting the fabric and sewing it into a garment, pressing the garment into shape and then heating the garment to a curing temperature.
  • a process for making a shape holding, cellulosic yarn-containing fabric having improved abrasion resistance and good flexibility comprises the steps of coating one face of the fabric preferentially with a thickened aqueous coating composition having a viscosity in the range of to stokes which contains an aminoplast precondensate, a curing catalyst therefor and a thickening amount of a water soluble hydroxylated polymer which prevents the coating composition from penetrating from the coated face of the fabric uniformly through the cellulosic yarns to the opposite face, and heating the coated fabric to a temperature between about 275 and 375 F., whereby the precondensate non-uniformly distributed on the fabric becomes cured thereon.
  • a process for making a. shape holding fabric possessing improved abrasion resistance and good flexibility comprises the steps of impregnating an allcotton fabric with a composition containing a curable aminoplast precondensate in a liquid carrier, coating the impregnated fabric selectively on one side with a thickened composition containing urea and thickened with a water soluble thickener to prevent uniform impregnation of the fabric with the urea containing composition through to the opposite side, and then curing the precondensate on the fabric.
  • a process for producing a shape holding cellulosic fabric having improved abrasion resistance and good flexibility which comprises substantially uniformly impregnating a woven cellulosic fabric in a bath containing a curable creaseproofing agent in a liquid carrier, thereafter selectively poisoning the creaseproofing agent on only one side of the fabric without uniformly poisoning the other side thereof, and then curing the creaseproofing agent on the fabric.
  • the creaseproofing agent includes a mixture of a curable aminoplast precondensate and a curing catalyst therefor.
  • a process according to claim 10 wherein said selective poisoning is effected by uniformly spraying a thickened liquid composition containing a poisoning agent superficially on only one side of a fabric previously impregnated with a curable creaseproofing composition and without permitting said composition which contains said poisoning agent to impregnate the fabric uniformly through to the other side.

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Description

United States Patent 3,445,277 DIFFERENTIAL TREATMENT FOR IMPROVING THE SHAPE HOLDING PROPERTIES OF CELLU- LOSIC FABRICS Leonard Smith, Chevy Chase, Md., assignor to Cotton Producers Institute, Memphis, Tenn., a non-profit corporation of Tennessee No Drawing. Filed Dec. 22, 1964, Ser. No. 420,437 Int. Cl. B44d 1/08, 1/44; C09d 3/64 U.S. Cl. 117139.4 12 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A shape holding cellulosic fabric having high abrasion resistance is produced by treating it preferentially on one side; as by coating one side of the fabric with a thickened mixture of creaseproofing agent and catalyst and thereafter curing it, or by impregnating it with a liquid containing a curable creaseproofing agent and thereafter selectively poisoning the creaseproofing agent on one side of the fabric prior to curing, or by impregnating the fabric with a liquid containing a curable creaseproofing agent and thereafter flash drying the resulting wet impregnated fabric by selectively contacting one side thereof with the heated surface. The invention causes the yarns composing the fabric to have along their length portions treated with a creaseproofing agent and ther portions relatively free from creaseproofing agent. This results in a shape holding fabric which has a higher abrasion resistance than similar shape holding fabrics whose yarns contain creaseproofing agent throughout.
This invention relates to the production of shape holding or crease resistant fabrics made from cotton, rayon or other cellulosic fibers or blends of such fibers with polyester, nylon and other synthetic fibers. In particular, it relates to the production of crease resistant cotton fabrics by modifications of the conventional pad-dry-cure system and of the so-called delayed cure system. More particularly it relates to a new process for producing crease resistant cotton fabrics having superior strength and abrasion resistance. Still more particularly, it relates to a process for applying a creaseproofing agent to a cellulosic fabric in such a manner as to achieve differential distribution of the agent in the fabric and thereby to produce good crease resistance, good wash-and-wear properties as well as good abrasin resistance.
The textile industry has for years been applying to cellulosic fabrics various resinous precondensates and cellulose crosslinking agents along with necessary catalysts. The application consists of impregnating the fabric with chemical agents, squeezing off excess liquor, drying the fabric, and then curing it at elevated temperatures to set the resins or to accomplish the crosslinking of the cellulose molecules. Literally billions of yards of fabrics have been produced by this system. More recently a modification has been introduced called the delayed cure process. By this technique, the chemically impregnated fabrics are dried but not cured. Then the fabrics are cut, made into garments, pressed into shape, and only then cured at elevated temperatures. While this technique of creaseproofing fabrics had produced garments with better appearance and better shape retention, it has not solved the serious problem of impaired wear or abrasion resistance of the final garment which all such creaseproofing techniques have tended to cause.
During the last 30 years many technological improvements and developments have taken place in the production of crease resistant cotton and rayon fabrics. Now the textile industry has available thermosetting resins and 3,445,277 Patented May 20, 1969 cellulose cross-linking agents which are durable to washing, are resistant to chlorine bleaches, have little or no effect on the lightfastness of dyes, produce high wet crease resistance, and some that give such ancillary properties as flame resistance and water repellency. Notwithstanding such great advances made in the creaseproofing of fabrics, the treated materials suffer from having reduced wear life compared to a non-creaseproofed fabric. This reduced wear life is manifested in lower tear resistance, lower flex life and lower abrasion resistance measured by various laboratory tests. It appears that the poorer wear resistance of fabrics which have been resin treated in accordance with heretofore customary techniques is caused by the reduction in fiber extensibility and reduced toughness of the individual fibers which such prior treating techniques inherently bring about.
Various attempts have been made to improve the wear life of creaseproofed fabrics. By the use of silicone, polyethylene, and fatty chemical based textile lubricants, softeners, and plasticizers it has been possible to improve the tearing resistance of such fabrics. Many times, however, such treatments may produce a greasy or oily feel in the cloth as an undesirable side effect. Moreover, while they can improve tearing resistance quite significantly, they do not greatly improve the surface abrasion resistance of the fabric. Other attempts have been made to apply high loadings of starches, polyvinyl acetate, acrylic resins, and various thermoplastic polymers to the creaseproofed fabrics. However, such resin coatings also have not been altogether successful because they change the aesthetic properties as well as the feel and flexibility of the fabric, and they may produce other undesirable properties such as increased soil retention. As a consequence of the failure of such attempts, the textile industry is still plagued with the problem of low abrasion resistance and poor wearing qualities of creaseproofed fabrics.
It is an object of this invention to provide means of producing wet and dry crease resistance in cotton and other cellulosic fabrics while maintaining high abrasion resistance in the final fabrics. It is another object to provide such means which can be readily carried out in the textile plant with existing equipment. It is a further object to provide increased abrasion resistance without sacrifice in the feel and appearance of the creaseproofed fabric. It is still a further object to provide these benefits both in the conventional dry and cure operation of creaseproofing agen-ts and in the newer so-called delayed cure process.
These objects are accomplished by differentially depositing the creaseproofing agent on the fabric, e.g., by having the agent present in a lower proportion on the face side of the fabric than on the back side. The differential deposition of creaseproofing agent and other appropriate chemical adjuncts may be achieved by a variety of coating or modified impregnation techniques including the following:
COATING TECHNIQUES A. Provide an aqueous coating composition containing a solution of the creaseproofing agent and catalyst thickened with water soluble thickener such as a hydroxylated polymer; apply the thickened coating composition preferentially to the back side of the fabric; and dry and cure the thus coated fabric at elevated temperature either immediately or dry only and then cure the fabric after it has been made into a garment.
B. Provide a coating composition in the form of a high viscosity water-in-oil emulsion containing the creaseproofing agent and catalyst in the water phase; a water immiscible solvent in the oil phase; and an emulsifying agent at the interface; apply the emulsion to one side of the fabric then dry and cure as desired.
C. Provide two compositions as in A above but each containing a different effective concentration of the creaseproofing agent and separately apply each coating composition to different sides of the fabric followed by drying or curing as desired.
D. Provide two compositions as in B above but each containing a different effective concentration of the creaseproofing agent and separately apply each coating composition to different sides of the fabric followed by drying or curing as desired.
IMPREGNATION TECHNIQUES E. Impregnate the fabric with an aqueous solution of the creaseproofing agent and catalyst; then dry at temperatures below the setting point of the creaseproofing agent; then coat on one side with a thickened composition containing a catalyst poisoning agent; then dry and cure as desired to set the creaseproofing agent on the non- M poisoned side of the fabric.
F. Treat as in E above, but, instead of a catalyst poison, apply to one side of the fabric a chemical which deactivates the creaseprofing agent so as to prevent reaction of the agent in one side of the fabric, either partially or completely, during drying and curing without interfering with the curing of the creaseproofing agent on the other side.
G. Treat as in E or F above but, instead of the coating technique, spray on the catalyst or creaseproofing agent poisoning chemical superficially to one side of the fabric (without allowing uniform impregnation through the fabric); then dry and cure as desired.
H. Impregnate the fabric with creaseproofing agent and catalyst, squeeze off excess chemicals, and then flash dry at elevated temperatures, e.g., on a can drier, to cause migration of chemicals to one side of the fabric. Cure as desired.
I. Block one fabric face by pressing it into a soft thermoplastic sheet, pass the resulting laminate through a bath containing the creaseproofing agent and catalyst, squeeze off excess chemicals, dry the laminate, strip off the thermoplastic sheet, and cure the fabric.
The thickened coating compositions used to coat the creaseproofing agent to one fabric side (as in coating methods A, B, C and D), or the thickened poison compositions used to cause preferential curing of a resin treated fabric on one side only (as in methods E, F and G) are formulated to a viscous consistency suitable for application in conventional textile coating equipment such as knife coaters, reverse roller coaters, kiss roll coaters, and other known types of coating machines. Accordingly, the thickened compositions used herein may range in viscosity from that corresponding to the consistency of light refined mineral oil to that corersponding to heavy molasses and generally in the range of 5-200 stokes, preferably between about 125 and 175 stokes. In any event, the consistency of the coating composition and the interval between its application to the fabric and its drying should be such as to have a high degree of retention of the composition on the fabric side to which it has been applied, without allowing the applied composition to impregnate the fabric uniformly through to the opposite face.
Whether or not a particular composition has the viscosity and non-penetration characteristics best suited for the purposes of the present invention can be readily determined by a series of simple, preliminary tests, Typically, for instance, an individual yarn pulled from a woven cotton fabric which has had the creaseproofing agent differentially distributed therein in accordance with this invention should, when dyed with a dye which is substantive to the cellulose but not to the creaseproofing agent, exhibit a regular zebra-like or striated appearance. This is due to the fact that the yarn portions having the creaseproofing coating applied thereto will have a different color from the yarn portions which are free or relatively free of any such coating. Of course, in an individual yarn taken from a woven fabric which has been superficially coated on one side there will be alternating coated and uncoated yarn portions as each warp yarn alternately goes over and under the consecutive filling yarns. Indeed, even if a fabric is coated with a creaseproofing agent on both sides, an improvement in abrasion resistance will be observed if the viscosity of the coating composition is such that little penetration into the fabric takes place, i.e., such that the yarn portions where the yarns cross remain essentially untreated. Apparently it is the presence of these untreated segments, each equal to about 1 to 10 yarn widths in length and interspersed at frequent and more or less regular intervals along the yarn length, which are responsible for the improved abrasion resistance.
Other equivalent techniques may be used to produce the differential distribution of the creaseproofing agent in 'the fabric, or to produce the segmented distribution of the agent on the individual yarns composing the fabric, and provide the benefits of this invention. As the essence of the present invention depends on the manner in which a creaseproofing agent is distributed in the fabric and is essentially independent of the chemical structure of the particular agent used, aminoplast precondensates as well as other types of available creaseproofing agent may be used as desired, the following being illustrative: polymethylol ureas, polymethylol melamines, methoxymethyl ureas and melamines, 1,3-dimethylol 4,5-dihydroxymonoureines, 1,3-dimethylol S-N-alkyl triazones, dimethylol ethylene urea, dimethylol propylene urea, bis methoxymethyl uron, dimethylol carbamates, polymethylol hydrazinates, dimethylol bis amides, tetramethylol acetylene diureines, tris aziridinyl phosphine oxide, diglycidyl ethers of polyols, vinylcyclohexene dioxide, divinyl sulfone, bis hydroxyethyl sulfone, glycerine dichlorohydrin, epichlorohydrin, glyoxal, glutaraldehyde, acrolein-formaldehyde resins, etc.
When the aqueous coating technique is used to provide differential modification of the two sides of the fabric, the thickening agent may be selected from the broad class of water soluble hydroxylated polymers, including such products as: hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl starch, polyvinyl alcohol, methyl cellulose, polyoxyethylene, carboxymethyl cellulose, natural gums, dextrins, or from other water soluble polymers as: polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrolein-bisulfite, deacetylated chitin acetate, alkylated polyethylene imine, polyglycols, and polyacrylic acid.
Depending on the particular creaseproofing agent employed, the various acidic or alkaline catalysts normally used for the setting process may be used as is otherwise well known in the art. For instance, when the creaseproofing agent is an aminoplast precondensate, a curable diepoxide, or an aldehyde such catalysts as zinc nitrate, zinc fiuoborate, magnesium chloride, ammonium sulfate, maleic acid, ammonium chloride, amine hydrochlorides and oxalic acid may be used. For alkali catalyzed creaseproofing agents such as the sulfones and the chlorohydrins, the catalyst may be sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, etc. Other acidic or alkaline catalysts may also be used.
As a poison for the creaseproofing compound, there may be used in the coating composition: alcohols, glycols, urea, guanidine, thiourea, glycerol, glucose, formarnide, sodium bisulfite, hydroxylamine, and other compounds that can react with and thus deactivate the functional groups in the creaseproofing agent.
As a poison for the catalyst in the coating mix there may be used neutralizing agents. For normal acid catalysts, there may be used as poisons: triethanolamine, sodium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, alkylamines, calcium carbonate, polyethylene imine, sodium acetate, potassium hydroxide, and the like.
For normal alkaline cured creaseproofing systems, there may be used as poisons in the coating mix: glycine, glycolic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium acid sulfate, boric acid, citric acid, and the like.
For the solvent in the oil-in-water emulsion coating system there may be used the following: high boiling naphtha, xylene, carbon tetrachloride, high boiling esters, kerosene, mineral spirits, and the like.
The concentrations of creaseproofing agents, catalysts, softeners and other adjuncts in the treating formulations are so designed as to produce the desired balanced performance levels in the finished fabric. Generally, adequate performance levels are obtained when the creaseproofing agent concentration is such as to produce a dry add-on in percent on the weight of dry fabric, of between 1 to 20%, preferably between 2 and The catalyst is desirably present in concentration ranges from about 0.5 to 20%, preferably between 2 and 5 or 10%, by weight of the creaseproofing agent depending on time and temperature of the cure, as is otherwise Well known in the art. Softeners, if desired, can be added in concentrations ranging from 5 to 100%, preferably from 10 to 30%, based on the creaseproofing agent and depending on the degree of softness to be obtained.
The optimum concentrations of the various agents used depend, of course, on their chemical nature and interaction, and also somewhat on process conditions, especially on the specific conditions under which the treated fabric is cured, as can be readily determined by preliminary empirical tests. It is interesting to note, incidentally, that the amount of creaseproofing agent required to produce a given effect is generally smaller when the agent is applied differentially in accordance with the present invention than when the fabric is uniformly impregnated with the agent by conventional padding or the like. Maximum improvement in abrasion resistance is obtained when the creaseproofing agent is applied to the back fabric side only. However, a substantial improvement in abrasion resistance is obtained even when the fabric is coated on both sides, provided that the coatings are applied differentially, that is, so as to produce a fabric composed of yarns having treated and untreated segments in alternating sequence as described earlier herein. Coating on the face as well as on the back of a fabric may often be desirable for aesthetic reasons, e.g., to preserve the lustre of a sateen fabric, or to improve its hand, etc. Of course, where a 3 to 10% add-on of creaseproofing agent on the back side is usually preferred for optimum improvement in creaseproofing properties in accordance with the present invention, add-ons of less than 3% (based on dry fabric weight) will usually be sufficient to preserve lustre, etc., on the face of the fabric.
Further understanding of the nature, operation and efiicacy of this invention may be obtained from the following examples. In all cases, standard test procedures of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists were used to evaluate the fabrics produced. The abrasion resistance of the fabrics was measured by two different methods described on page 457 and page 462 of the ASTM Standards on Textile Materials, 1961. They include the Stoll Flex Tester and the Wyzenbeek Wear Tester. Both of these machines measure the number of cycles to destroy a test specimen by either flex abrasion or by surface wearing. All coatings were done on a laboratory Knowlton Coating Machine, knife coater.
All proportions of materials are expressed herein on a weight basis unless otherwise indicated.
Example 1 A sample of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen was coated on the back side only with the following coating composition:
Parts Aqueous solution of permafresh 183 dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea (50% solids) 20.0 Aqueous dispersion of Mykon oxidized polyethylene softener (20% solids) 2.0
Aqueous solution of zinc nitrate catalyst (40% couc.) Aqueous solution of hydroxyethyl cellulose (2% solids) 74.4
After coating with this composition, which had a viscosity of about stokes, the sample was dried 5 minutes at 250 F. and then cured 5 minutes at 320 F. The dried fabric had a resin add-on of 3.4%
A second sample of the same cloth was padded in the conventional manner through an aqueous solution of:
Parts Aqueous solution of dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea (50% solids) 20.0 Aqueous dispersion of Mykon oxidized polyethylene softener (20% solids) 2.0 Aqueous solution of zinc nitrate catalyst (40% conc.) 3.6 Water 74.4
Then it was dried 5 minutes at 250 F. and cured 5 minutes at 320 F. This fabric had a resin add-on of about 8.7%.
Both the conventionally padded and the differentially coated samples were tested for crease resistance and for The fabric sample coated on one side only exhibited high crease recovery angles comparable to those found in the conventionally treated padded fabric, and this despite the fact that the coated fabric had less than one-half the resin add-on of the conventionally treated fabric. An uncreaseproofed fabric has recovery angles of only 120 degrees. The differentially coated fabric had 50% higher tensile strength than the conventionally padded sample. Most important, however, the abrasion resistance of the coated sample was vastly superior to that of the conventional treatment. This was particularly true of the uncoated face side, but even the coated side had very much better abrasion resistance than the conventionally treated fabric.
The oxidized polyethylene softener was included in t e formulations in accordance with conventional practice but could be omitted without adversely affecting improvement in abrasion resistance achieved by means of the present invention.
Example 2 Samples of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen were conventionally padded or differentially coated as. in Example 1 and dried only at 220 F. for 5 minutes. Thereafter they were made into mens trouser legs with cuffs, pressed into shape and only then cured for 5 minutes at 320 F. Sets of the two different trouser legs were subjected to 10 special, standardized wash cycles in an automatic home Washer. Both the conventionally treated sample and the differentially coated sample showed excellent wash and Wear and shape retention performance on washing. The conventionally treated sample, however, had begun to show small abrasion holes at the edge of the cuffs after 10 such wash cycles whereas the differentially coated sample showed no noticeable abrasion. Different sets of the same two fabrics, in trouser leg form, were laundered in an accelerated wear washer. After three cycles of such accelerated wear washings, the conventionally treated fabric showed large abrasion holes. None were present in the differentially coated sample. These practical wear tests confirmed the results of the laboratory abrasion tests given in Example 1.
7 Example 3 Water-in-oil coating mixes of creaseproofing agent, catalyst and softener were prepared for one-sided coating on cotton fabric. These mixes contained:
Cut clear contains: 50% Amsco 46 high-boiling naphtha solvent;
49.6% water; 0.2% hydroxyethyl cellulose; 0.1% oetyl alcohol; 0.1% polyethoxylated nonyl phenol surfaet ant (emulphor Ell 719)- The mixes were coated on the back of 100% cotton sateen, dried 5 minutes at 250 F. and cured 5 minutes at 320 F. The results of various mechanical tests on these and the control padded fabrics (as in Example 1) are shown below:
ticularly great in the 20/0 sample which was treated on one side only. However, the /5 sample and even the 10/10 sample, both of which were coated on both sides, had an abrasion resistance about 400% better than the conventionally treated control, the 10/10 sample being somewhat less resistant than the 15/ 5 sample. The samples treated on both sides had the advantage that they retained most of their original lustre through repeated wash cycles whereas the /0 sample gradually lost it. The dye test described earlier herein affords a ready means of establishing that all of the coated samples were composed of yarns showing a similar zebra effect and were in fact differentially treated whereas the padded control was composed of uniformly colored yarns indicative of uniform non-differential treatment.
Example 5 Samples of 100% cotton sateen were impregnated by padding through the solution of Example 1 and dried 5 minutes at 220 P. Then they were coated on the face with a water-in-oil resin poisoning mixture containing various amounts of urea. The urea here was expected to Wyzenco-react with the creaseproofing agent in the fibers and Dry face Flll Tear beek h b d fit crease tensile, strength weal. t ere y re uce its e ective COIICClltl'fltlOl'hOIl the face of Treatment o y lbs/m. g Test the fabric. The three urea poisoning coatings contained:
Padded control 291 31 690 600 ii 261 47 1 090 a 220 P 270 40 980 2, 330 cent 277 39 910 2, 030 A B Q Urea 0.5 1 As can be seen, the overall strength pr pert of the Cut clear (Example 3) 99.5' 99 9g one-side coated fabrics were superior to those of the padded control.
Example 4 Samples of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen were coated as in Example 1 first on the back, followed by drying, then (except in A) on the face, followed by drying. Then they were cured 5 minutes at 320 F. In each coating, different amounts of the creaseproofing resin were used to give Two sets of each of these coatings were made. One set was thickened with the hydroxyethyl cellulose as in Example 1. The second set was prepared as a water-in-oil emulsion as in Example 3. The average results of these tests are given below and are again compared to the fabric which was conventionally treated as in Example 1:
Conven- Differentially coated tionally Test property padded 20/0 1515 10/10 W-l-F crease recovery back (wet) 252 257 285 274 W+F crease recovery face (wet). 270 272 294 284 W+F crease recovery back (dry). 278 273 278 268 W+F crease recovery face (dry) 291 278 272 274 Wzenbeek Wear 'Iest*face 600 2, 960 2, 480 2, 220
Wear Test done on the water-in-oil coated set.
These results show that as long as differential distribution of creaseproofing agent in the fabric is achieved, the creaseproofing resin content of the coating mixes used on each Side of the fabric can be varied over a considerable range and will in each case produce very high crease resistance as well as a substantial improvement in abrasion resistance in comparison with the conventionally treated sample. The improvement in abrasion resistance was par- After coating, the samples were dried and then cured 5 minutes at 320 F. The following results were obtained:
Filling Tensile, Filling Wyzenbeek Sample treatment lbs/in. Tear, gms. Wear Test No urea coat 31 690 600 0.5% urea 40 930 1, 640 1% urea..." 40 940 1,600 5% urea 38 1, 020 2, 190
Example 6 Samples of cotton sateen were knife coated on the back side with a creaseproofing mix containing:
Parts Dimethylol dihydroxymonoureine 20 Zinc nitrate catalyst (40% cone.) 3.6
Oxidized polyethylene dispersion (as in Example 1) 2.0 Aqueous solution of hydroxyethyl cellulose (2% solids) 74.4
After coating and drying 5 minutes at 220 F., the face of the fabric was knife coated with the following finishing mix:
Parts Thermoplastic acrylic resin latex (46% solids) 5 Water 20.6 Aqueous hydroxyethyl cellulose solution (2 solids) 74.4
The acrylic resin coating was applied to the face of the fabric to preserve its lustrous appearance through repeated laundering cycles, and to further improve its abrasion resistance.
After coating and drying the face, the whole fabric was cured for minutes at 320 F. The following physical properties were found:
It is again demonstrated that the differentially coated fabric has high crease resistance properties and higher strength and abrasion resistance than the conventionally padded fabric.
Example 7 A sample of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen was padded with the aminoplast solution described in Example 1, whereupon the back of the wet fabric was placed in contact for seconds with a metal plate heated to a surface temperature of 360-365 F. After this flash drying, the fabric sample was then dried an additional 5 minutes at 220 F. and cured 5 minutes at 320 F.
As a control a second sample of the same cloth was padded, dried and cured, but omitting the step of flash drying in contact with the heated metal surface. The face of each sample was tested for abrasion resistance, and fabric cuttings were dyed with 1% C. '1. Direct Blue 71 to detect the differential deposition of resin finish brought about by contacting one side of the cloth with the heated metal surface. The results were as follows:
Fabric samples Treated by padding Untreated, Difierenno resin tially finish Control dried Face surface abrasion 1 1,530 900 2,000. Color of fabric on dyeing:
Face Blue Undyed Blue. Back .-d Individual yarns do d0. Striated.
1 Cycles to destruction.
2 Indicates presence of resin finish on fabric surface.
3 Indicates presence of resin finish on one fabric surface and substantial absence thereof on other fabric surface.
Example 8 A sample of 8 oz. 100% cotton sateen was padded as in Example 7 and dried only at 220 F. for 5 minutes. This fabric sample was then coated on the face with a coating composition containing 1% sodium carbonate, 19% water, and 80% cut clear is described in Example 3. After coating the sample was dried 5 minutes at 220 F. and cured 5 minutes at 320 F. The alkaline coating was expected to poison the acid-reacting catalyst and thus prevent the fixation of the resin on the face of the fabric.
Dye tests and abrasion tests described in Example 7 were carried out on the sample prepared as above. A
comparison with an untreated sample and conventionally prepared fabric are shown below:
Fabric samples 1 Cycles to destruction.
2 Indicates presence of resin finish on fabric surface.
3 Indicates presence of resin finish on one fabric surface and substantial absence thereof on other fabric surface.
These results demonstrate that differential resin fixation can be brought about by coating one side of an impregnated fabric with a catalyst poisoning agent which inhibits resin cure on the poisoned fabric side. A fabric treated in this manner exhibits superior abrasion resistance to fabrics prepared by conventional finishing methods.
It will be obvious to those skilled in the textile finishing and coating art that the foregoing examples are illustrative only and that variations and substitutions may be made in the described procedures and ingredients in carrying out the broad teachings hereof, and that additional ingredients normally used in textile finishing may be included in compatible amounts, such as softeners, water repellents, antibacterial agents, thermoplastic resins, starches, and weighting agents, all without departing from the spirit of this invention or from the scope of the appended claims.
What is claimed is:
1. A process for producing a shape holding cellulosic yarn-containing fabric having improved abrasion resistance .and good flexibility which comprises preferentially placing a mixture of curable creaseproofing agent and curing catalyst in a liquid carrier on one face of said fabric, said mixture being thickened to a viscosity in the range of 5 to 200 stokes with a water soluble thickener to prevent substantially uniform impregnation thereof from the treated fabric face through the cellulosic yarns, and thereafter curing said creaseproofing agent on said fabric.
2. A process according to claim 1 wherein said fabric is selected from the group consisting of all cotton, cotton-polyester blends, and cotton-nylon blends.
3. A process according to claim 1 wherein said mixture is thickened by forming an emulsion of aqueous creaseproofing agent and catalyst in oil.
4. A process according to claim 1 wherein said thickened mixture comprises about to water, about 5 to 15% dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea creaseproofing agent, about 0.5% to 3% inorganic zinc salt catalyst, and about 0.5% to 5% hydroxyethyl cellulose thickener, said mixture being applied to the fabric to produce thereon a dry add-on of creaseproofing agent of about 2% to 15 based on dry fabric weight.
5. A process according to claim 2 wherein said mixture contains a thickening amount of hydroxylated polymer.
6. A process according to claim 2 which comprises the steps of drying the coated fabric rat a temperature lower than curing temperature, cutting the fabric and sewing it into a garment, pressing the garment into shape and then heating the garment to a curing temperature.
7. A process according to claim 5 wherein said hydroxylated polymer is hydroxyethyl cellulose.
8. A process for making a shape holding, cellulosic yarn-containing fabric having improved abrasion resistance and good flexibility, which process comprises the steps of coating one face of the fabric preferentially with a thickened aqueous coating composition having a viscosity in the range of to stokes which contains an aminoplast precondensate, a curing catalyst therefor and a thickening amount of a water soluble hydroxylated polymer which prevents the coating composition from penetrating from the coated face of the fabric uniformly through the cellulosic yarns to the opposite face, and heating the coated fabric to a temperature between about 275 and 375 F., whereby the precondensate non-uniformly distributed on the fabric becomes cured thereon.
9. A process for making a. shape holding fabric possessing improved abrasion resistance and good flexibility, which process comprises the steps of impregnating an allcotton fabric with a composition containing a curable aminoplast precondensate in a liquid carrier, coating the impregnated fabric selectively on one side with a thickened composition containing urea and thickened with a water soluble thickener to prevent uniform impregnation of the fabric with the urea containing composition through to the opposite side, and then curing the precondensate on the fabric.
10. A process for producing a shape holding cellulosic fabric having improved abrasion resistance and good flexibility which comprises substantially uniformly impregnating a woven cellulosic fabric in a bath containing a curable creaseproofing agent in a liquid carrier, thereafter selectively poisoning the creaseproofing agent on only one side of the fabric without uniformly poisoning the other side thereof, and then curing the creaseproofing agent on the fabric.
11. A process according to claim 10 wherein the creaseproofing agent includes a mixture of a curable aminoplast precondensate and a curing catalyst therefor.
12. A process according to claim 10 wherein said selective poisoning is effected by uniformly spraying a thickened liquid composition containing a poisoning agent superficially on only one side of a fabric previously impregnated with a curable creaseproofing composition and without permitting said composition which contains said poisoning agent to impregnate the fabric uniformly through to the other side.
References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS WILLIAM D. MARTIN, Primary Examiner.
THEODORE G. DAVIS, Assistant Examiner.
US. Cl. X.R.
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US3634126A (en) * 1969-09-15 1972-01-11 Deering Milliken Res Corp Process for controlling location of composition in fabrics
US3947613A (en) * 1974-08-07 1976-03-30 The United States Of America As Represented By The Secretary Of Agriculture Process for reducing agent migration during treatment of knitted cotton fabric
US20030013366A1 (en) * 2001-06-07 2003-01-16 Klutz David S. Wrinkle-resistant fabrics having desirable aesthetic characteristics, and method for making same
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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