US3323137A - Garment - Google Patents

Description

June 6, 1967 A. BELDOCH 3323,1137

Filed Maroh 1965 ALBERT l. BELDOCH INVENTOR.

United States Patent O 3323,137 GARMENT Albert I. Beldoch, 1410 lroadway, New York, N.Y. 10018 Filed Max. 5, 1965, Ser. N0. 437,528 2 Claims. (C1. 293) This invention relates to wearing apparel. More particularly, lt relates to improved garments which are highly cornfortable to Wear and are capable of providlng optirnum fits for the wearers thereof.

In the construction of a garrnent, the respective 100ations of the various necessary seams therein, their angle of disposition, and their shape is determined by many factors, the more important of these factors being comfort, proper fit and prevailing fashion or style.

Know garments are generally constructed to bang from the shoulder of the wearer and generally include shoulder seams which bear the bulk of the weight of the garment. With substantially all of the garments weight so concentrated as to bear along respective Single narrow seams, there consequently results disco-mfort to the wear@r of the garment because of such weight pressing on a narrow and uneven bumpy area of the human hody.

These shoulder searns in known garrnents usually are disposed in a straight line substantially horizontal from the neck to the armhole of the garment. However, the human shoulder does not lie in a straight line laut, in fact, curves downwardly from the neck toward the armhole and gently slopes toward the front of the body. Since these anatornlcal facts have not been considered in the design of known garrnents and the disposition f the aforesaid shoulder seams therein, the consequence has been the dlfficulty of providing a proper and total fit therewith Since the bulk of the weight of the garrnent is substantially concentrated -along the aforesaid narrow shoulder searn, substantlally all of the Stress applied to the garment in its wear due to body movements also tends to be concentrated at this seam. With such stress constantly acting on the seam, in -addition to the resulting discornfort produced thereby, there is also an increased tendency for the seam to be ripped open 01' to be torn.

It is, cf course, to be noted that sorne known garment shoulder construction types such as raglan, saddle and the like, substantially eliminate the problems nor' mally encountered in the employrnent of seamed shoulder constructions, viz., problems such as discornfort, poor fit, tendency to tear and rip, etc. However, as is well known, such raglan and saddle, etc. constructions do not provide the advantages of the more desirable set-in sleeve arrangements.

Accordingly, it is an important object of 1El1is invention to provide an improved set-in sleeve type garment construction which proVides better qualities of fit, comfort and life of wear as compared to known constructions of like type.

Generally speking and in accordance with the invention, there is provided a garrnent having a centrally disposed neckline comprising =a front portion and a rear portion, the front portion having an upper edge which comprises a centrally disposed roughly circular concave neckline edge forming section which encloses an area greater than the total are enclosed by the neckline, and a pair of lateral edge sections extending latera-lly upwardly frorn the opposite ends of the concave edge section respectively. The front portion also compn'ses side edges which have at upper parts thereof substantially vertically disposed arrnhole formlng concave eclge sections respectiVely, the lateral end points of the front portion lateral edge sections making respective junctions with 3,323137 Patented June 6, 1967 the upper end points of the arrnhole concave edge sections. The rear portion has an upper edge which comprises a centrally disposed substantially horizontal meckline forming section and a pair of lateral edge setions extending laterally downwardly from the opposite ends of the rear portion neckline forrning edge section, the rear portion comprising side edges which cornprise, at the upper parts thereof, armhole forrning concave edgfi: sections respectively, the lateral end points of the rear lateral edge sections making respective right junctions With the upper end points o-f the rear armhole concave edge sections. Searns are provided which join opposing respective lateral edge sections t0 de=fine a closed arc neckline, the searns extending from respectively symmetrically disposed points to the rear of the side to side rnidline of the area enclosed by the neckline laterally downwardly t0 respective syrnn1etrically disposed points 011 the arrnhole forming concave edge sections f the rear portion.

For a better understanding of the lnvention together With other and further objects thereof, reference is had to the following description taken in conjunction With the accornpanying drawing and its scope will be pointed out in the appended clairns.

In the drawing, FIG. 1 shows in front elevation, the front portion of a garrnent c0nstructed in accordance With the principles cf the invention;

FIG. 2 shows in elevation, the rear portion of the garment;

FIG. 3 is an exploded type view showing which edges of the -portions shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 are joined t0 construct the garment; and

FIG. 4 is a three-dimensional view of the assembled garment.

Referring now t0 the drawing, the front portion 10 thereof as shown in FIG. 1 has an upper edge which cornprises a centrally disposed neckline forming edge section 12 and a pair of lateral edge se= ctions 14 and 16 respectively which extend from the end points of section 12 in an upward lateral direction. Front portion 10 comprises side edges, the left edge having an upper concave part 18 and a substantially straight part 20, the rlght edge having an upper concave part 22 configured to be substantially hilaterally symmetrical wlth concave part 18 and a substantially straight part 24 substantially coextensive in length With part 20. Dashed line areas 26 and 28 indlcate how sleeves ma-y be Set thereinto. It 1's to be noted that the area 13 enclosed by front portion neckline edge section 12 is more than that of a semicircle, the significance of which is explained further hereinbelow.

The rear portion 26 cornprises an upper edge Which has a centrally disposed neckline forming edge section 28 and two lateral substantially symmetrical edge sections 30 and 32 respectively which extend laterally downwa-rdly from the ends of neckline forming edge section 28. The side edges of rear portion 26 cornprise upper symmetrical conca-ve parts 34 and 38 respectively and lower straight parts 36 and 40 respectively, edge parts 36 and 40 being substantially equal in length toeach other and to edge parts 20 and 24 in front portion 10. As seen in FIGS. 1 and 2, lateral edge portions 14 and 16 make junctions With upper parts 18 and 22 respectively in the front portion 10 and lateral edge portions 30 and 32 make junctions With upper arts 34 and 38 respectively in rear portion 26.

FIG. 3 shows how the various edges of front and rear portions 10 and 26 of the garrnent are joined by searns to provide the constructed garrnent of FIG. 4. It is noted that the seams 16-30 and 14-32, because of the selection of front portion neckline forming section 12 to have an arcuate circumference greater than that of a semicirclc, and the providing of laterally upward'ly extending edge sections 14 and 16, run from points 42 and 44 n the neckline defined by edge sections 13 and 28 which are symmetrically disposed and to the rear of the side to side dia-rneter 055 the area encloscd by the neckline. The respective ar-rnholes are defined by the forrning of seams 1630, 14-32, 2436 and 20-40 (not visible) seams 1630 and 1432 cxtending to points 46 and 48 on the respective armholcs. As is seen, points 46 and 48 are to the rear of the side to side midplane of the garrnent whereby seams 1630 and 1432 do not run along the tops cf the shoulders but along the back of the garrnent.

By locating seams 1630 and 1432 at the back of the garment instead of along the tops of the shoulders, the fabric constituting the garment lying over the whole area presented by the sh0ulders absorbs tl1e weight of the garment and distributes it equally. Also the elimination of shoulder located searns greatly enhances the comfort 0f the garment as experienced by a wearer thereof and thcre is no conscious pressure felt by the wearer of the gar-ment.

Furthermore, the climination of the shoulder locatcd seams permits of improved fits not possible with shoulder sean'1ed garments. This results since, With the elimination of the shoulder sca=ms, the garment fabric lies on top of and across the shoulder along a slight bias. This bias provides an added elasticity which perrnits the fabric to mold itse-lf to the shoulder and conform to its shape as contrasted with the need for the shoulder t0 conform to the shape of a searn.

It is of course apprcciatedthat tl1e elimination of the shoulder located searns in accordance with the invention results in increased attractiveness of the garment. Thus whereas in a garment with shoulder seams, sharp hard lines are visible along the shoulders giving the garment a square unattractivc look, the eliminating of the shoulder seams and locating them at the back as described hereinabove, perrnits thc garrnent to fall more naturally 011 the wearer thereof, thereby creating its own shoulder line.

Most important, it is to be noted that the location of the seams 011 the back of the garment transfers the stress due to body movcments fr0rn thin relatively weak searn lines to a much larger a1ea 0f the fabric, i.e., that area covering the shoulders, where the stress is substantially uniformly distributed.

Referring back to FIG. 2 which shows the rear portion of the garment, it is to be noted that the downward angles from which lateral edge sections 30 and 32 extcnd from the ends of neckline forming edge scction 28 is greater than the angle present in the rear portions of known garments. Because of such greatcr angles, the junction 31 of edge sections 30 and 34 and the junction 33 of edge sections 32 and 38 result in shoulder-armholc intersections Which are substantially lower with respect to the shoulder-neckline intersection than in knowrr garments. lt is within the conte-rnplation of the invention that the downward angles of edges 30 and 32 be chosen such that the respective shoulder-armhole intersections occur at lower points such as about 2% to 3% inches lower than the shoulder-neckline inte1secti0ns. It is also within the contemplation of the invention to provide a contour for rear portion 26 whercby the shoulder meckline intersection is about 2 inch lower than in known garrnents.

Similarly With regard to front portion 10, as shown in FIG. 1, lt is within the contemplation of tl1e invention to have like dispositions of corrcsponding intersections.

While therc has been described what is considered t0 be a preferred embodiment of the invention, it Will be obvious to those skllled in the art that other modifications and chan-ges may bc made therein without departing frorn the invention and it is accordingly, intended in the appended clairns to cover all such modifications as fall within the spirit and scope of the invention.

What is claimed as new and desired to be securcd by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A garmcnt cornprising front and rear portions, said front portion having an upper edge which comprises a centrally disposed roughly circular concave neckline forming section enclosing an area greater than a semicircle and a pair of lateral edge sections extending laterally upward frorn opposite ends of said concave section respectively, said front portion having side edges comprising upper part arrnhole f-Orrning concave edge sections respectively, the lateral end points of said lateral edge sections making respective first junctions With the upper end points of said armhole forrning concave edge sections, said rear portion having an upper edge which cornprises a centrally disposed substantially horizontal neckline forming edge section and a pair of lateral edge sections extending laterally downwardly frorn the opposite ends respectively 0f said rear neckline forming section, said rear portion having side edges comprising upper part arrnhole forming concave edge sections respectively, the lateral end points of said rear portion lateral edge sections making second junctions with the upper encl points of said rear armhole concave edge sections, seams joining opposing front and rear lateral edge sections, said searns extending from respectively substantially symmetrically first disposed points on said necklinc to the back of the side to side diameter of said neckline to respective second symmetrical points on the armhole forming concave edge sections of said rear portion.

2. A garrnent as defined in claim 1 in Which the angles forrncd by said rear portion lateral edge sections with said rcar portion neckline forming se-ction are so chosen whereby said second junctions are from 2% to 3% inches below the and points of said rear ortion neckline forming edgc section.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2212,719 8/1940 Prouty 293 2403598 7/ 1946 Hochfelder 293 2491001 12/1949 Croonborg 293 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primazy Examiner.

G, KRIZMANICH Assistant Examiner,

Claims (1)

1. A GARMENT COMPRISING FRONT AND REAR PORTIONS, SAID FRONT PORTION HAVING AN UPPER EDGE WHICH COMPRISES A CENTRALLY DISPOSED ROUGHLY CIRCULAR CONCAVE NECKLINE FORMING SECTION ENCLOSING AN AREA GREATER THAN A SEMICIRCLE AND A PAIR OF LATERAL EDGE SECTIONS EXTENDING LATERALLY UPWARD FROM OPPOSITE ENDS OF SAID CONCAVE SECTION RESPECTIVELY, SAID FRONT PORTION HAVING SIDE EDGES COMPRISING UPPER PART ARMHOLE FORMING CONCAVE EDGE SECTIONS RESPECTIVELY, THE LATERAL END POINTS OF SAID LATERAL EDGE SECTIONS MAKING RESPECTIVE FIRST JUNCTIONS WITH THE UPPER END POINTS OF SAID ARMHOLE FORMING CONCAVE EDGE SECTIONS, SAID REAR PORTION HAVING AN UPPER EDGE WHICH COMPRISES A CENTRALLY DISPOSED SUBSTANTIALLY HORIZONTAL NECKLINE FORMING EDGE SECTION AND A PAIR OF LATERAL EDGE SECTIONS EXTENDING LATERALLY DOWNWARDLY FROM THE OPPOSITE ENDS RESPECTIVELY OF SAID REAR NECKLINE FORMING SECTION, SAID REAR PORTION HAVING SIDE EDGES COMPRISING UPPER PART ARMHOLE FORMING CONCAVE EDGE SECTIONS RESPECTIVELY, THE LATERAL END POINTS OF SAID REAR PORTION LATERAL EDGE SECTIONS MAKING SECOND JUNCTIONS WITH THE UPPER END POINTS OF SAID REAR ARMHOLE CONCAVE EDGE SECTIONS, SEAMS JOINING OPPOSING FRONT AND REAR LATERAL EDGE SECTIONS, SAID SEAMS EXTENDING FROM RESPECTIVELY SUBSTANTIALLY SYMMETRICALLY FIRST DISPOSED POINTS ON SAID NECKLINE TO THE BACK OF THE SIDE TO SIDE DIAMETER OF SAID NECKLINE TO RESPECTIVE SECOND SYMMETRICAL POINTS ON THE ARMHOLE FORMING CONCAVE EDGE SECTIONS OF SAID REAR PORTION.

Images