US3041626A - Collars for shirts - Google Patents

Description

B. LIGHT COLLARS FOR SHIRTS July 3, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed June 5, 1959 i I Ii July 3, 1962 Filed June 5, 1959 B. LIGHT 3,041,626

COLLARS FOR SHIRTS 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 i 15- I5\ #3 5 fa -'2 5 3 s nnzs CGLLARS non snnars Bert Light, 4 Bath St, City Road, London EC. 1, England Filed done 5, 1959, Ser. No. 818,341 Claims priority, application Great Britain Jan. 16, 1959 2 Claims. (Cl. 2-131) This invention relates to collars for shirts and is applicable to such collars whether detachably or permanently fastened to the body of a shirt. More particularly, the invention is concerned with the provision of a shirt collar of the kind having face and back plies each formed in one piece and each including a neckband portion and a cape or turn down portion.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an improved collar of the kind set forth which involves fewer processes in its manufacture than has been the case with collars previously proposed and which is constrained to set itself when in a position of wear so as to be irnmaculate and pleasing in appearance and so as to provide opcomfort.

The present invention includes an interlining suitable for a shirt collar of the kind having face and back plies each formed in one piece and each including a neckband portion and a cape or turn down portion, comprising a first section adapted to be located wholly within and shaped in a manner complementary with the neclcband portion of the collar, said first section being formed with an edge adapted to be disposed adjacent but not lying the cape portion of the collar and to establish the fold line of the collar and a second section adapted to be located mainly within and shaped in a manner complementary with the cape portion of the collar, the second section including a part which overlaps said edge of the first section and is secured along the length thereof to a side of the first section adapted for disposition in opposed relationship to the face ply of the collar.

The invention also includes a shirt collar comprising face and back plies each formed in one piece and each including a neckband portion and a cape or turn down portion and an interlining disposed between the face and back plies and comprising a first section located wholly between and shaped in a manner complementary with the neckband portions respectively of the face and back plies, the first section having an edge disposed adjacent but not lying within the respective cape portions of the face and back plies and establishing the fold line of the collar, and a second section located mainly between and shaped in a manner complementary with the cape portions respectively of the face and back plies and including apart which overlaps said edge of the first section and is secured along the length thereof to a side of the first section disposed in opposed relationship with the face ply of the collar.

1 define the term neckband portion as meaning that part of a collar which is disposed on a lower side of an imaginary curved line joining the inner or lower ends of the side edges of the cape portion of the collar whilst by the term cape portion 1 mean that part of the collar lying on the side of the said imaginary line opposite the neckband portion.

It will be appreciated that the overlapped portions of the neckband and cape portions of the interlining are disposed wholly with-in the neckband portion of the collar and in this way the entire cape portion of the collar can be folded down on the neckband portion. Thus the collar is predisposed to fold along a line, namely the said imaginary line, which terminates at opposite ends thereof at the inner or lower ends of the side edges of the cape portion of the collar. The imaginary line referred to is the line about which the cape would tend to turn in the s nszs Patented July 3, 1962 "the absence of any interlining and the provision of an interlining according to this invention ensures that the cape portion will fold along the said imaginary line.

In accordance with one feature of the invention, the first section of the interlining includes extremities which extend outwardly beyond respective end edges of the sec-' ond section and each end edge of the second section includes a part which is inclined inwardly with respect to the first section and away from the corresponding extremity thereof and extends to the edge of the second section which overlaps the first section. By virtue of this construction folding of the second section about the overlapped edge of the first section of the interlining can take place without causing folding of the extremities of the first section which extend outwardly beyond the end edges of the second section of the interlining.

According to another feature of the invention, the first section of the interlining is formed in any suitable known manner so as to be capable of being adhesively bonded to either or both of the face and back plies of the collar. Thus in the finished collar the first section of the interlining is bonded to the neclcband portion of one or both of the face and back plies whilst the part of the second section of the interlining which overlaps the first section is bonded to the first section. In this way support is provided for the edge of the first section of the interlining adjacent the cape portions of the face and back plies and the collar is thus predisposed to fold along the said edge of the first section of the interliningand rubbing of the said edge of the first section against the face ply of the collar is prevented.

In yet another feature of the invention the neckband or first section of the interlining is formed from a stifier or heavier weight cloth than the second section thereof. Such a construction again renders the finished collar more readily predisposed to fold along the line provided by the said edge of the first section of the interlining.

The invention will nowbe described, by way of example, with reference to the accompanying, somewhat diagrammatic drawings, in which:

FIGURE 1 is a plan view of an interlining for a collar in accordance with the invention, the surface of the interlining which in the finished collar is opposed to the face ply of the collar being uppermost;

FIGURE 2 illustrates in plan View the interlining of FIGURE 1 disposed upon superposed front and back plies of the collar, the surface of the interlining shown I in FIGURE 1 being here disposed in contact with the face ply of the collar;

FIGURE 3 illustrates the collar shown in FIGURE 2 after turning and final marginal stitching;

FIGURE 4 is a sectional view taken through FIGURE 1 on a line transverse to the length of the collar and midway between the ends thereof;

FIGURE 5 is a similar sectional view taken through FIGURE 2; Y

FIGURE'6 is a similar sectional view taken, through FIGURE 3; and

FIGURE 7 is a plan view of the neckband interlining section.

Referring tothe drawings, an interliningfor a shirt collar, generally indicated by the reference numeral 1,

includes a first section 2 which is adapted to be located wholly within and is shaped in a manner complementary I with a neckband portion 3 (see FIGURE 3) of the finished collar. The first section 2 of the interlining comprises a central bowed portion 4 formed in one with extremities or end parts '5 which extend lengthwise with 'respect to and from respective opposite ends of the central bowed portion 4. These end parts are adapted to engage within complementary partsfi of the finished col- "lar which respectively are provided, in known manner,

with a button (not shown) and a buttonhole 7 for fastenl ing the collar. 7 7 The interlining 1 also includes a second section 8 which is adapted to be located mainly within and is shaped ina manner complementary with a cape portion 9 of the finished collar. This section 8 of the interlining includes a part 10 which overlaps the central bowed portion 4 of the first section 2 of the interlining at a side of the first section 2 which in the finished collar is opposed to a face ply of the collar.

of the interlining is provided a line of stitching 11 which extends parallel with the overlapped edge of the first section 2 of the interlining and'secures together the interlining sections 2 and 8.

The upper edge 12 of the first section 2 of the interlining which is overlapped by the part 10 of the second section 8 of the interliningdetermines the fold line of the collar and, so that the finished collar will be predis- In the overlapped portions of the first section 2 and second section 8 posed to fold: along the upper edge 12 of the interlining 7 section 2, this latter section may, if desired, be formed of stitfer or heavier Weightcloth than the second section 8 of the interliningjso as to provide support for the overlapped edge 12 of the first interlining section 2; A1 ternatively, the surface 13 of the first section 2 of the manner as to be capable of being adhesively bonded to the face-ply. With such an arrangement, the part 10 of the/second section 8 of the interlining which overlapsinterlining which in the finished collar is opposed to the .face ply of the collarrmay be so formed in any known the first section thereof is permanently secured between a the first section 2 and the face ply and, thereby, support is alforded for the overlapped edge 12 of the first'section 2 of the interlining and the finished collar is thus predisposed to fold about the edge 12; It will be appreciated also that since the first section of the interlining is over,-

is opposed to the face ply of the collar, rubbing of the 'face' ply of the collar against the overlapped edge of-the first section of the interlining will not take place and the liability of the collar to wear out 'along the fold line thereof'is; reduced. I

So as further to ensure that the finished collar Wlll -be predisposed to fold along the 'overlappededge 12 of ""contiguity. With this arrangement the cape or second section 8 of the'interlining can fold over the overlapped edge of the first section without being in any Way' ch- 7 lapped on the side 13 thereof which in the finished collar J tioual ply.

interlining to the face ply of the collar may also be adopted and, if desired, the section 8 of the interlining may be bonded to the face ply of the collar in the same Way as has been described in connection with the section 2 of the interlining. As an alternative, an additional ply may be inserted between the interlining and the face ply of the collar, the interlining section 2 and/or the interlining section 8 being adhesively bonded to this addi- So as to incorporate in a shirt collar the interlining 1 described above, the interling is, as shown in FIGURE 2, placed upon and in register'with superposed face and back plies of the collar which are represented by the reference numeral 17. Each of the face and back plies .17 is formed in one piece to include the neckband portion 3 and cape or turn down portion 9. The surface of the interlining i which in the finished collar is opposed to the face ply l7 is disposed in contact with the face ply. The face ply, back ply and interlining are then marginally stitched together along end edges thereof by respective lines of stitching 18 which determine the side edges of the cape portion of the collar and along the free edge of the interlining section-8 remote from the section 2 by a line of stitching 19flwhich determines the outer edge of the cape portion of the collar. The free edges of the neckband portions of the superposed plies and the interlining are lefit unstitched to permit turning of the collar in known manner.

As is apparent from FIGURE 2 ofthe drawings the lines 18 of stitching which determine the position of the end edges of the cape portion of the finished collar cross the contiguous edge-to-edge opposed complementarily inclined edges 14 and 15 of the sections 2 and 8 of the interlining at respective locations outwardly spaced from the ends of the edge 12 of the neckband interlining sec, tion 2, whichedge determines'the location of the fold line of the finished collar. It will 'also'be apparent that the line of stitching 18 has an apex 13' at the point where said line of stitching crosses the contiguous opposing edges 14 and 15 of the interlining sections; that is, the line of stitching ld'has a portion which extends substantially straight outwardly parallel to the adjacent end edge 16 of the interlining section 8 and another portion which extends at an abrupt angle to the outwardly extending portion, substantially parallel to the upper edge of the neckband portion at its end portions 5, and the junction '18 of these two portions of the line of stitching structed by or causing obstruction of the first section of the interlining. I

The opposed inwardly inclined edge parts 14.and 15 respectively of the sections 2 and 8 of the interlining provide a positive and accurate means whereby the sec- I tions 2 and Sean be aligned and registered prior tothe securing together'of the sections Zand 8 by the line of stitching 11. I V I For obtaining adhesion between the first section of the interlining and the face ply of the collar, the first section of the interlining may be formed in known manner from material incorporating cellulose derivative threads which are treated with appropriate solvent and secured to the face ply under heatand pressure. Alternatively, the surface 1'3"ofthe'first' section of the interlining maybe coated in'known' manner with a thermoplastic adhesive and secured (to-the face ply by heat and pressure. Other known processes for effecting adhesive bonding of the 18 is on the contiguous opposed edges 14 and 15 of the interlining sections. The locations of these apices 18' in the lines of stitching 18 determine the inner ends of the side edges of the cape portion of the finished collar, and the distance between these points or apices 18' and the adjacent end of the edge 12 allows, at the front of thefinishedarid folded collar, just sulficient accommodation for the double thickness of the back ply of the collar as will permit the fold line of the collar to extend exactly from the inner ends of the side edges of the cape portion of the collar. This insures that the front of the finished and folded'collar will reside as low as possible on the neck of the wearer of the collar, thereby providing optimum comfort, and also insures that no forces are exerted on the cape portion which would cause the points of the collar tofiare away from the body ofthe wearer.

After the'marginal stitching together of'the plies 17 and the interlining 1, the collar is trimmed by removing surplus cloth 20 of the superposed plies 17 at thepoints of the collar and surplus cloth enclosed by the broken lines 21 at the junction at each end of the collar between the cape and neckband sections thereof. Such trimming facilitates turning of the collar. l The contiguous opposed inwardly inclined edges 14 and 15 of the interlining sections also facilitate turning of the collar inasmuch asthey provide acut in the interlining ply l'outwardly'of each line of stitching 18-which cut is directed towards the apex 18' of the stitching line 18 which determines the inner end of the side edge of the cape portion of the finished collar. Thus when the collar is turned the interlining material outwardly of each of the stitching lines '18 can give way right up to the apex 18' of the stitching line.

Subsequent to trimming, the collar is turned and marginally stitched along its end edges and the free edge of the cape portion 9 of the collar by a line of stitching 22. If desired, a line of through stitching 23 is provided which secures together the face and back plies and the overlapped parts of the first and second sections of the interlining, the overlapped parts being wholly disposed within the neckband portion of the collar.

If the collar is of the kind where the first section and/ or the second section is adhesively bonded under heat and pressure to the face and, it may be, back plies of the collar, the collar may now be subjected to heat and pressure to eifect such bonding whereupon the collar is ready for attachment to the body of the shirt.

Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the interlining of the collar as described above results in the provision of a one-piece collar having the extremities of its fold line coinciding with the respective inner ends of the side edges of the cape portion ofthe collar. *This feature, which ensures that in use no forces are exerted in the cape of the collar which tend to make the collar points flare away from the body of the wearer of the collar, is brought about by the unique shape of the neckband section 2 of the interlining according to which the ends of the edge -12 are disposed in the finished collar a suificient distance within the neckband portion of the collar as will allow, when the collar is folded, just sufficient accommodation for the double thickness of the back ply of the collar to permit each of the ends of the fold line of the collar to terminate at the inner ends of the side edges of the cape portion of the collar. Further, as the ends of the fold line of the collar each terminate at the inner end of a side edge of the cape portion of the collar, the front of the collar will reside as low as possible on the neck of the wearer ensuring optimum comfort and smartness of appearance.

Those skilled in the art will also appreciate that the underlining of the collar as described above provides a means whereby collars of the kind described can be manufactured in a simplified and quicker manner since the interlining 1 comprises only two sections 2 and 8 which are secured together, suitably, by the line of stitching 11 and such securing together of the sections 2 and 8 does not involve any folding of these sections along the line where they are secured together. Thus, a simple sewing machine without complex folding attachments can be employed in order to prefabricate the interlining 1. It has been found that a collar manufactured in accordance with the present invention can be made in approximately 25 percent less time than collars made by similar methods known hitherto.

What I claim is:

l. A shirt collar comprising: a face ply formed in one piece and having a lower neckband portion and an upper cape portion adapted to be turned down over the neckband portion along a fold line which extends along the junction of the neckband and cape portions; a back ply formed in one piece in substantial correspondence with the face ply and secured to the face ply in register therewith; a neckband interlining section fiatwise confined be- 5 tween the neckband portion of the face and back plies and shaped in substantial. correspondence thereto, the upper edge of the neckband interlining section being recessed to give the same an elongated medial portion and a pair of diverging end portions which extend obliquely outwardly from the ends of the medial portion; a cape interlining section intermediate the face and back plies shaped in substantial correspondence with the cape portion of the face and back plies and disposed mainly within the cape portions of said plies, but having a lower 15 marginal edge portion which extends beyond the lower edge of the cape portions of said plies and between the neckband portions thereof; the edge of said lower marginal edge portion of the cape interlining section having an elongated medial portion which corresponds in shape to the elongated medial portion of the upper edge of the neckband interlining section, and diverging end portions which extend obliquely from the ends of the elongated medial edge portion, the lower marginal edge portion of the cape interlining section overlapping the upper marginal edge portion of the neckband interlining section to an extent which disposes the oblique edge portions at the ends of the two interlining sections in edge-to-edge contiguity; and means securing the overlapping marginal edge portions of the interlining sections to one another, the edge-to-edge contiguity of the oblique edge portions locating the two interlining sections in proper relationship to one another prior to securement of said sections together, and preventing interference between the interlining sections when the collar is folded along said fold line. 2. The collar of claim 1, further characterized by a line of stitching extending along each end edge of the cape portion and along the upper edge of the adjacent part of the neckband portion which projects beyond the end of the cape portion, said lines of stitching defining boundairies of the collar, and each of said lines of stitching having an abrupt angle therein, the apex of which lies on the contiguous edge-to-edge obliquely extending edge portionsiof the interlining sections.

5 References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,637,540 Sukrow Aug. 2, 1927 1,803,765 Mueller et a1 May 5, 1931 1,897,486 McCreery Feb. 14, 1933 2,033,680 Campbell Mar. 10, 1936 2,081,136 Di Iuglio May 25, 1937 2,118,407 Liebowitz May 24, 1938 2,197,134 Rubinstein Apr. 16, 1940 5 2,304,275 Panettieri Dec. 8, 1942 2,435,509 Pfetfer et al. Feb. 3, 1948 2,470,950 Pfeifer May 24, 1949 FOREIGN PATENTS 152,087 Australia June 29, 1953 794,588 Great Britain May 7, 1958

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