US2858784A - Tie sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 4, 1958 A. w. ORR

TIE SEWING MACHINE 8 Sheets-Shed 1 Filed April 21, 1954 ONT Ill l. "I m INVENTOR. (Af.

A drey $54 9.- HTTOR/YE) Nov 4, 1958 A. w. ORR 2,358,784

' TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 wwv wh mu ww NW a d Nov. 4, 1958 w, QR 2,858,784

TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 8 Sheets- Sheet 3 INVENTOR. Audrey W Orr fiT'TOR IVEX 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 Nov. ,4; 1958 Filed Avril 21, 1954 19 TT RIYE y Nov. 4, 1958 w.- ORR v 2,858,784

TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 1/4 I r 1/4 420 a f 02 1/45 0 E Q lHlh. [II'IHI] INVENTOR.

Huorey' Orr Nov. 4, 1958 A. w; ORR. 2,858,784

TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 .Ffgifi jFf li 1 i5 l4 INVENTOR- gudne Orrgz'zf v elgl ATTOR NEY Nov. 4, 1958 A. w. ORR 2,858,784

' TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 s Shegts-Sheet "r "lg'lil INVENTOR. Audrey 14/. Orr

AT TORNEY Nov. 4, 1958 w, ORR 2,858,784

TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 21, 1954 v 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 IN VEN TOR.

HTTOR/VE) Huq'r'ey W Orr United States Patent-O TIE SEWING MACHINE Audrey W. Orr, New York, N. Y. Application April 21, 1954, Serial No. 424,657 3 Claims. (Cl; 112-174) This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and the like.

An object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved sewing machine which is particularly adapted for use in connection with the manufacture of neckties and the like.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved sewing machine of the character described, in which special types of longitudinal necktie assembly stitches may be made in one rapid, continuous pass of the needle, while the fabric remains stationary, the entire stitch forming operation being thus completed upon one forward motion of the needle, and its consequent retraction to initial position.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved necktie sewing machine which forms the. characteristic loose longitudinal necktie assembly stitch or the like, by a single pass of the special elongated threaded needle through the necktie fabric elements to be thus assembled, means being provided for forming the fabric into a series of successive undulations or crimps, the fabric being gently but firmly pressed into shaped hollow recesses by crimping elements and held in such formed undulations while the needle passes therethrough, so that at the moment of stitching, the fabric section being stitched is stationary, automatic means being provided for moving the crimping. elements into and out of position as the needle moves forward on its needle carrier or support.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved necktie sewing or stitching machine, in which. there is a plurality'of crimper elements adapted for limited extension motion into and out of engagement with the hollow crimper bar recesses on the stationary crimper bar, the machine including a cam which moves with the needle carrier, so as to gently crimp the necktie fabric into the recesses of the crimper bar in successiv undulations, one undulation being formed after the other, rather than trying to form them all at once and unduly stretching or deforming the fabric being worked upon.

Still a further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved form of actuating and control means so that the entire operation is carried out without the need for intervening control by the operator, so that the operator has both hands free to guide the fabric while the seam is being completed, and the work is automatically released when the end of the rearward motion is reached. 1 I

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved necktie sewing and stitching machine of the character described, which is simple in design, inexpensive to manufacture, contains a minimum of parts, and is readily maintained in operating condition, all parts being quite rugged and capable of withstanding considerable wear and tear.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved necktie stitching machine of the character described, which is relatively compact, and will fit into a 1 moved up into "ice small floor space, little more than an ordinary sewing machine, and thus allows it to be installed in any shop, either singly, for a small operation, or in multiples, for a large operation, being very economical in use of floor space.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machineof the type described, which may be operated by relatively unskilled and inexperienced labor, thus eliminating any need for a long apprenticeship, and avoiding the consequent'spoilage of Work and wastage of time and materials.-

Still a further object of the invention is to provide a machine for quickly and easily forming a necktie stitch of the loose stitch type as taught by U. S: Patents 1,447,090, and 1,448,453, issued to Jesse Langsdorf in 1923, to which reference is made for details of such construction, particularly for joining thenecktie outer fabric or body, and the lining together by a continuous thread loosely engaging both, and knotted at both ends.

These and other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following descriptionvof a preferred embodiment thereof, as illustrated in the accompanying drawings, forming part hereof, and in which, 1

Figure 1 is a top plan view of a machine according to the invention.-

Figure 2 is a rightend elevational view of the machine shown in Figure l, as seen from the right end of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a front elevational view showing the machine of Figure 1 as seen looking toward the lower edge of the machine of Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary front elevational view of the machinesimilar to the view of Figure 3, except that it is on a larger scale, and partly broken out to show the coristruction thereof, and shows the machine with the needle carrier and cam in a partially advanced position, some of the crimper elements being elevated into crimping engagement with the teeth recesses of the crimper bar.

"Figure. 5 is a fragmentary sectional elevational view taken'substantially on plane 5-5 of Figure 3.

Figure 6 is afragmentary sectional elevational view taken substantially on plane 6-6 of Figure 4, and showing also the needle carrier and associated parts.

Figure 7 is afragmentary top plan view taken substantially on viewing plane 7--7 of Figure 6 within the presence of the top cover plate, with particular reference to the needle and its supporting means.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary front elevational view showing the crimper bar, and some of the crimper elements engagement therewith, with the fabric crimped therein in' undulations, and the needle indicated in stitching engagement therethrough.

Figure 9 stantially' on plane also in fragment.

Figure 10 is a fragmentary front elevational detail view showing parts relating particularly to the details of the foot pedal return mechanism, the view being taken substantially on plane Ill-40 of Figure 11.

Figure 11 is an elevational view taken on plane 1111 of Figure 10, showing the parts and being otherwise in fragment.

Figure 12 is a front elevational detail view taken on plane 12 1'2 of Figure 6, and illustrating the elongated needle in its needle carrier, and the associated cam and cam housing as a unitary assembly, the view being in fragment, and partly broken out.

Figure 13 is'a left end elevational view of the parts shown in Figure 12 Figure 14 is a right end elevational view of the parts shown in Figure 12.

Figure 15 is a fragmentary 9-9 of Figure 8, this view being longitudinal sectional eleis a sectional elevational view taken sub-- in plan showing the parts associated with the fabric guide means, the view being taken substantially on plane 16-16 of Figure 3.

Figure 17 is a front elevational fragmentary detail view taken on a plane similar to that of Figure 16, and showing the tripper device by which the fabric guide is returned to initial outstanding position as shown in full lines in Figure 16 at the end of the return stroke of the machine.

Figure 18 is a fragmentary detail bottom front elevational view showing the brake elements of the device.

Figure 19 is a left side elevational view of the device shown in Figure 18.

Figure 20 is a bottom plan detail view taken substantiallly on plane 2020 of Figure 3, showing the motor,

worm gear housing, and associated speed change and direction change cone drive elements.

Figure 21 is a top plan view taken substantially on plane 21-21 of Figure 22, showing a modified form of cloth guide device for use on the machine.

Figure 22 is a transverse sectional plan view taken substantially on plane 22-22 of Figure 21.

Figure 23 is fragmentary front elevational view on plane 23-23 of Figure 21.

In connection with the fabrication and assembly of neckties, the various operations are necessarily carried out with the greatest speed and avoidance of lost motion, in order that the ultimate cost of the necktie in labor and materials will be at a minimum, while the quality of the finished necktie is maintained at a satisfactorily high standard. Use of hand stitching in quality neckties must unavoidably add to the labor charges involved, and the present invention makes use of machine work even in connection with operations which could not heretofore he carried out with the required degree of speed and accuracy needed for mass production. In the present device, the fabric of the necktie, which is to be stitched, is held in a first clamp, and then successively engaged in a series of clamps, all tending to not only engage the fabric, but also to form the same into a continuous series of undulations, preparatory to stitching. I The stitching operation is carried out by means of a needle carrier employing a long needle, which is threaded continuously, and remains so threadedduring the use of the machine as long as thread remains on the thread cone. The needle carrier is arranged for reciprocal motion, forward to stitch, and rearwardly to disengage from the fabric after the stitch is formed, there being not one but a series of successive stitches formed through the undulated fabric of the necktie prior to withdrawal. The needed knots are formed at the beginning and end of the stitch series, and the thread severed in preparation for the next successive stitching series and operation. In aid of the advance of the needle, so that there is no substantial bending or deformation of the needle which is quite elongated, a series of needle supports are provided, so that the needle is supported at intervals along its length to prevent undue bending, the needle supports being constructed so as to permit flexure only to an insubstantial degree, and yet permitting yielding of the needle supports angularly about their pivotal support members as' the needle is advanced or retracted.

The needle carrier also is secured to a pair of cams which move along therewith, so that as the needle is advanced the cams elevate a series of crimper elements or teeth, the outer ends of which are moved into engagement with the crimper grooves of a crimper bar, and thus to crimp int othe grooves the undulated portions of the necktie fabric just prior to passage of the needle therethrough. As the needle passes therethrough, the operator is thereafter enabled to grasp the outer end of the fabric, and pull it taut, after the needle is retracted,

so as to retain both the thread and the fabric in stitched positions, for knotting at each end of the thread section covering the particular fabric length involved. As the needle is retracted, the cam which is also carried with the needle on the needle carrier, is retracted, allowing the crimper elements to drop to their lowermost positions, and thus freeing themselves from the fabric and the grooves of the crimper bar.

The forward and reverse motion of the various parts in unison with the elongated needle is controlled as described in the specification, particularly by means of a pair of forward and reverse foot pedals, and such other controls as may be desired, in accord with the teaching of the invention. A minimum of parts is needed, and such parts are quite rugged. Lubrication is provided in accordance with known standards as needed. Thus the stitching of neckties is permitted without involved and cumbersome machinery, and with the utmost in simplicity and speed, and hence at a minimum in cost.

In order to understand clearly the nature of the invention, and the best means for carrying it out, reference may now be had to the drawings, in which like numerals denote similar parts throughout the several views.

As shown in Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5, there is a main base or platform 10 forming a main table top and having a lower surface 12 spaced from its upper surface 14, and supported on leg members 15 and 16 the ends of which are engaged with flanges 18 and 20 at their upper and lower ends, for engaging the table top 10 and the floor 22 as needed. The table top 10 may be made of suitable material such as wood in substantial thickness, or other materials may be used as available or desired, and is fairly long between its front and rearward edges 24 and 26, and broad between its left and right side edges 28 and 30 as seen best in Figure 2.

A rearward table top 32 is carried at its forward edge 34 on a lateral beam 36 resting on the rearward edge 26 of the lower table top or platform 10, and extends rearwardly to rearward edge 38, being carried by rear legs 40 having enlarged flanges 42 and 44 at its upper and lower ends, for engaging respectively the table top 32 and the floor 22 as shown. As seen best in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, a number of brackets 46, three being shown, have their bases 48 disposed upon and secured to the upper surface 14 of the main base or table top 10 by means of screws 50 or the like, so as to extend thereabove on their upstanding bracket legs 52, and bent over integrally at horizontal legs 54, for being secured by means of screws 56 to the upper surface of the crimper bar 58.

The crimper bar 58 is of substantial length between its front and rear ends 60 and 62, which extend longitudinally of the machine, and is of substantial width between its left and right edges 64 and 66, and has substantial thickness between its upper and lower surfaces 68 and 70. As seen best in Figures 1, 3, 4 and 5, the crimper bar 58 as shown, has a series of consecutive crimper recesses 72, which are downwardly open, and extend laterally between edges 64 and 66 as seen in Figure 5. Figure 8 shows the .edgewise contour of the crimper recesses 72 in somewhat a larger scale, and also the contours of the upper edges of the crimper elements in engagement therein with the necktie fabric therebetween in undulated crimped position therein. As seen in Figure 5, the upper edges or margins 74 and 76 may be beveled somewhat to avoid sharp edges as shown. Similarly, a downwardly open longitudinal groove 80, as seen in Figure 5, may be formed through all the walls of the crimper recesses 72 of the crimper bar 58, to allow extension therethrough of the elongated needle 84 when the needle is in forward or retractive motion as explained hereinbelow.

A number of crimpers or crimper members 86, one for each of the recesses 72 inthe crimper bar 58, are

provided, as shown in the various views, particularly in Figure 4, where they are shown in edgewise view in various dispositions. Such crimper members 86 are also seen in somewhat greater detail on a larger scale in Figure 5, and in Figures 8 and 9. From those views, it is seen that the crimpers 86 each are constructed with a pair of side bars or legs 90 and 92, which are mutually parallel and interspaced, being interconnected at the top by the top rail or crimper bar edge member 94, so as to define a space therebetween as at 96. A curtain wall or plate 98 interconnects the upper ends of the bars 90 and 92, and also the rail 94, so as to form a rigid assembly as seen best in Figures 8 and 9. The bifurcated crimpers 86 have small stub shafts 99 set into bores formed in their lower ends 102, the walls of the bars 90 and 92 being recessed at 104 to receive the rollers or wheels 106 which thus extend below the lower surfaces of the bars 90 and 92, and allow the entire crimper assemblies to ride on the rollers.

At their upper ends, the crimpers are formed preferably with convergent faces 108 and 110, and are smoothly rounded at their location of intersection which thus forms the rounded abutment edge or blade edge 112, which is shaped somewhat to interfit smoothly with the recesses 72 in the crimper bar 58 when inserted therein as shown in Figures 4, 8 and 9, with the fabric 114 crimped therebetween in successive undulations as shown. The crimper elements 86 are ground smooth on all surfaces, so that where they abut each other, there will be a minimum of friction between adjacent crimper members 58.

An opening 118 is formed in the plate 98 of the crimpers, to retain the upper end of the biasing spring 120, which is a tension spring biasing each of the crimper members 58 downwards, being secured at its lower end 122 to an abutment or opening 124 in the bottom plate 126 of the main housing 128. From Figures 5 and 6, it is seen that the main housing 128 has its bottom or floor plate 126 extending across and secured to the lower flanges 130 of the side walls 132 and 134, which in turn have top flanges 136 and 138 integral therewith and parallel to the lower flanges 130. There is thus defined inside the main housing, the main housing chamber 140 for the accommodation of the various parts herein described, such as the crimper members 58, the needle carrier and cam assembly 142, and the like.

The needle carrier and cam assembly 142 is shown in further detail in Figures 12, 13 and 14, and also in Figures 4, 5 and 6. As seen therein, it includes a pair of side walls 144 and 146, which are interconnected by a downwardly extending channel member or floor member 148 having flanges 150 secured to the side walls'144 and 146 as shown. A pair of cam rails 158 are secured to the inner surfaces of the walls 144 and 146, as shown, to project inwardly therefrom, and thus form cam rails supporting the rollers 106 of the crimper members 90 when they are in engagement therewith, as in Figure 4. From Figures 4, 12, 8 and 9, it is seen that the cam 158 is horizontal from its leftward end 160, substantially to location 162, at which it commences to dip smoothly downwardly in a rightward direction, and ultimately becomes tangent to the edge 164 of the main housing when it reaches location 166 of the cam rails, and thus is at the intersection of the ends of the cam rails with the rightv end edge 168 of the needle carrier and cam housing 142. As the needle carrier and cam housing 142 moves rightwardly, as seen in Figure 4, it is seen that it lifts successively, each of the crimpers 86 in a smooth manner, sufiiciently to engage them successively with the recesses 72 of the crimper bar 58, since the crimper rollers 106 ride on the upcurved cam rails 158, in the manner shown in Figures 8 and 9, with the fabric 114 therebetween. Hence it is seen that the fabric is clamped firmly in undulations as shown, without wrinkling or stretching, since there is this successive crimping in formmg each undulation or wave thereof from left to right as seen in Figures 4 and 8. At the same time, it is seen that the needle carrier has carried with it the long needle 84, which moves therewith to the right. The needle 84 is quite long, as shown, and has its rightward end bent leftward as seen at 170, for being firmly clamped in the needle clamp head 172, which is bifurcated at its upper end for this purpose, to receive and clamp the needle end. The forward or pointed end 174 of the needle, has an eye 176 formed therein to receive the thread 178 from the spool 180 contained in the thread compartment 182 in the main housing, as seen in Figure 3.

The thread compartment 182 is provided with a floor 183 supported by side walls 181 and 185, which in turn are secured to the underside of the top wall 32 or other suitable supporting means, or by means of suitable brackets. A large spool 180 of thread is thus contained in the compartment 182, for extension through the eye of the needle as at 176, and thus may be mounted either stationary in the thread compartment, and the thread guided vertically thereabove to unwind readily therefrom, or the spool 180 may be mounted for rotation about a vertical axis, and the thread pulled off therefrom as the spool turns.

As seen best in Figure 6, the needle carrier clamp 172 has one'or more screws 173 threadedly extending across the bifurcations in which the needle end is clamped, so as to permit either tightening the clamping action, or releasing it as desired. From Figure 12 it is seen that the spacer web channel 148 does not extend rightwardly very far, its end wall edge being only as far as location 149, so that the walls 144 and 146 of the channel needle carrier and cam assembly 142 are interconnected at this rearward end portion. In this manner, there is no interference with forward motion of the assembly 142 when the needle is to be advanced to the right as seen in Figure 4. From Figure 6, it is seen that the needle carrier 172 has its base portion enlarged as at 179, and screws 181 extend through aligned openings in the base 179 and the abutting portions of the walls 144 and 146, to secure the needle carrier 172 to the walls to move together.

Since the needle 84 is quite long, it is necessary preferably to support it along its length at intervals, and this is easily accomplished by means of a series of spaced needle support and guide members 400 carried pivotally on upstanding pivot pins 402, which in turn extend through aligned vertical openings 404 in the horizontal flanges 206 of upstanding spaced upper housing walls 200 and 202 as seen best in Figure 6. The pins 402 also extend through the flanges 488 of the cover channel member 410, the central web 412 of which is elevated somewhat to define a downwardly open channel chamber or passageway 414 which protects the needle from exposure and protects the parts from dust and dirt. Each of the needle support and guide members 400 is shaped as seen best in Figures 6 and 7, with parallel sides 401, and up standing spring support pins 416 extending out of their uppensurfaces and movable therewith, for engaging the opposite ends of the tension springs 418, there being one such spring for each pair of such needle guide and support members 400. It is thus seen from Figures 8 and 9 that they also have lateral notches 420 or grooves which are substantially horizontal, to accommodate the needle as it moves therethrough, the jaw members 400 being capable of pivotal motion about their pivot pins 402 to allow the needle to slide therethrough, and the springs 418 tending to restore them to their rest positions shown in full lines in Figure 7. In this manner there is good support along the length of the needle 84, without hampering its free movement while forming the stitch.

Referring now to Figure 5, it is seen that there is an inner guide channel 422 with a floor web or wall 424 secured in any suitable manner to the main floor wall 126, as by screws 426, and that this channel has upstanding side walls 428 and 430'the outer surfaces of which are 7 spaced only sufiiciently to extend smoothly but without binding, between the depending legs 90 and 92 of the crimper members 86, thus maintaining their alignment, and guiding the crimper members 86 in their limited vertical motion as the cam rails 158 move therealong to elevate or depress the crimper members.

As shown, the needle carrier base 179, in Figure 6, has a cable clamp 432 secured thereto by means of screws 434, and has an opening 436 formed therethrough to receive the pull cable 438 which is thus clamped tightly thereto for movement with the base 179. From Figures 3 and 4, it is seen that the pull cable 438 has its various portions extending over pulleys 226 carried on shaft 224, pulley 222 carried on shaft 220, pulley 216 carried on shaft 218, and pulley 234 carried on shaft 236. Pulleys 226, 222, and 218 are mounted in the main frame of the machine in any suitable space, the shafts being carried on suitable mountings carried by the frame walls as shown and being thus stationary. The pulley 234 however, is mounted on shaft 236 for rotation therewith, the shaft 236 extending out of the gear housing 238, as seen best in Figure 3, and carrying on the inside of the housing 238, a pinion gear for rotation with shaft 236 and pulley 234. A worm gear is intermeshed with the pinion gear which turns with shaft 234, and the worm gear is disposed inside gear housing 238, and extends by means of shaft 362, as seen in Figure 3, outwardly, in a rightward direction.

From Figure 3 it is seen that the shaft 362 turns with the worm gear inside housing 238, and thus as the shaft 362 turns, the shaft 236 is turned at a reduced speed, and, depending upon the direction of rotation of shaft 362, the cable 438 is moved in either direction, and with it the needle carrier and cam assembly to which it is clamped by means of clamp 432 as seen in Figures 4 and 6. The gear housing 238 may be mounted to any fixed portions of the main housing so as to be stationary, such as by means of the brackets 351 and 352, and from Figure 3, it is also seen that a drive motor 250, has its base 356 secured to mounting or base 350 for movement therewith, the member 350 being in turn pivotally carried on horizontal shaft 354 which in turn is journaled in bearings carried by the bracket 352. In this manner, the motor 250 is movable pivotally about the axis of the supporting shaft 354, as seen by the arrows 357, about a vertically oriented rest position.

The drive shaft of the motor 250, as seen at 253, carries a conical drive head 251 which may be covered with suitable friction material, or may be formed of discs graduated along its length, and of "friction material, the

cone 251 being extended between the opposite conical faces of the driven clutch rotor 360 which is mounted on the shaft 362 for rotation with shaft 362 of the gear worm. It is thus apparent that while the motor shaft 259 may rotate in one direction only, swinging the motor 250 to the left as seen in Figure 3 will cause the shaft 362 to rotate in one direction, and swinging the motor to the right, will cause a reversal of the motor effect, reversing the shaft 362, and thus moving the cable 438 in the opposite direction. In this manner, it is possible easily to cause the needle carrier and cam assembly to move to the right to advance the needle and form a stitch, and to move it back to the left when the stitch is formed, withdrawing the needle, and at the same time returning the crimpers to their lower positions on retraction of the elevating cam rails. This change is accomplished by means of the foot pedals 302 and 306, seen in Figures 3 and 2. The pedals are pivoted at 308 the pivot being carried stationary by the floor panel 340 which extends rearwardly and upwardly as at 342, and thence is secured by means of brackets 348 'to the nearest stationary parts of the main frame in any suitable manner.

The pedals 302 and 306 are pivoted to connecting rods 8 tion transmitting bar 313, which in turn is pivoted at 314 to the stationary bracket 310 carried by the main frame. A connecting rod 324 is pivoted at its rightward end 318 to the extension 316 of bar 313, which in turn is pivotally connected at 330 to the swingable bar 328 which is pivoted to stationary bracket 326 also carried by a suitable Sta tionary part of the main frame or the like. Similarly a connecting rod 332 is pivoted at one end to the swingable bar 328, and at its other end is pivoted at 336 to the motor 250. Thus by depressing pedal 302, the connecting rod 332 moves to the left, and pushes the motor 250 in such a direction as to cause the needle carrier and cam assembly to move in a forward direction to form a stitch, while depressing pedal 306 causes the reversal of direction of movement of' the cable 438 and retraction or reverse motion of the needle and cam assembly.

Figure 10 shows the various parts by means of which the foot pedals are caused to return to their rest positions, ready for a new cycle of operation.

Referring now to Figures 3, 4 and 15, it is seen that there is need for clamping the fabric of the necktie and its lining firmly at one end while the stitching process is to be carried out, and this is accomplished by means of the fabric clamp jaw 400a, which is carried on the bracket or plate 402a, the latter being in turn provided with an elongated slot 404a for the reception of one or more pins or bolts 406a carrying enlarged heads or washers 408a to retain them in contact with the slot. An opening 410a is formed through the inclined clamping jaw 400a to allow the needle 84 to extend freely therethrough, and it is seen that the plate 402a is provided with an abutment flange 412a from which a spring guide rod 414a extends in a leftward direction. The rod 414a is secured to the flange 412a, and is encircled axially by the spring 418a which tends to exert spreading bias between the flange 412a and the flange 420a on the bracket 422a, which in turn is secured by screw 42411 to the needle carrier and cam assembly so as to move therewith. As a result, when the operator is about to insert the necktie lining and fabric into the machine for forming the stitching assembly, it is inserted into the opening 426a between the jaw 400a of the fabric clamp and the inclined stationary jaw 428a at the rearward end of the crimper bar 58. When the operator causes the needle to commence 315 and 317 with the opposite ends of the swingable moits stitching motion, it is seen that the fabric clamp jaw v 400a moves rightwardly to clamp the fabric firmly in and against jaw 428a. While the clamping motion may he automatic, it is also seen that this clamping operation may be arranged by suitable linkages for being carried out manually as the operator desires, as by means of a foot pedal, hand pedal or the like, to actuate the plate 402a In operating the machine, the operator thus first i11- serts the one end of the lining and necktie fabric in the fabric clamp space at 426a, and it is then firmly clamped therein. The rightward ends of the lining and necktie fabric are held by the operator, and arrangedto underlie the crimper bar 58, being held in the right hand of the operator and stretched out hoirzontally somewhat. Now then, as the operator depresses the forward pedal, causing the threaded needle to move forwardly, the cam also moves therewith, causing each of the crimpers in turn to rise successively, commencing with the leftward end of the crimper bar which is nearest the fabric clamp. In this manner, the fabric to be stitched is firmly clamped in successive undulations in the grooves of the crimper bar 58, without any stretching of the fabric or tearing thereof, the whole taking place without placing any stress on the fabric at all, except a smooth forming of the undulations therein, just prior to the passage of the needle therethrough. When the needle has thoroughly traversed the entire crimper bar and thus formed the stitch, the operator grasps the rightward end of the thread and holds it while he or she releases the forward pedal and depresses the reverse pedal, causing the needle and cam assembly ap ease to retract to the left. The needlevis retracted through opening 410a, and the operator can cut off the left end of the thread to a suitable length while stretching out the fabric as it unorimps, and the jaw 400a being released, the necktie is thus joined. The knotting is done later, or by another operator, this being preferably the characteristic loose necktie assembly knot which has so many advantages in necktie construction.

A fabric guide post member 450 is provided for carrying a fabric guide assembly to smooth out and guide the lining and necktie fabric as it is being crimped. Such fabric guide assembly may consist of a single necktie guide arm 452, shown in Figures 2 and 16, and carried on a notched hub 454. The hub 454 hasa central vertical opening 456 through which the post 450 extends, and has a spring pressed detent 458 movable in a bore 461 in a housing 464, under the influence of spring 460, and held in place by plug 462. It is seen that the guide arm 452 is provided with an elongated opening 466 through which the fabric to be stitched is extended, while the arm is disposed at right angles to the direction of travel of the needle, that is as seen in full lines in Figure 16, smoothing out the fabric. At this time the detent 458 engages the notch 458 and holds it in this position. When the post 450 moves to the end of its desired travel with the motion of the needle carrier, the pin 470 on the hub 454- strikes the stop lug 472 at the end of the groove 474, and is tilted in a counterclockwise direction, and swings the arm 452 to position 466a for movement back to initial position without being in the way. When it gets back to initial position near jaw 400a, the operator can press the pedal 480, to cause shaft 482 on fixed plate 484, to press against stud 470 on hub 454, returning arm 452 to outstretched full line position.

Referring now to Figures 21, 22 and 23, it is seen that here is shown a modified form of fabric guide which is continuously adjustable to center and guide the two fabrics, namely the necktie casing fabric and liner which are to be stitched together in this characteristic loose stitch manner. As shown, there is a centralizer control bar 500 which may be made of suitable material, such as steel, plastic or the like, of suitable strength, and has its edges 501 and 503 taperedas shown, or in any suitable manner, to suit the cut of the fabric to be centralized, the taper shown being only one example. By means-f screws 504 extending through openings in the several crimper bar support arms or brackets 54, and bushings 502, the centralizer control bar is mounted in position beneath the brackets 54 in the manner illustrated, inwardly of the crimper bar 58 shown by itself in Figure 22. The carrier stud or post 450 extends upwardly as shown, and has seated pivotally thereon the fabric guide base or hub 506, which has a bottom flange 508 with a reduced neck 510 extending into the integral top flange 512 which in turn is integral with the upstanding flange 514 at right angles thereto as seen best in Figure 23.

The fabric guide body 516 is mounted on the upright flange 514 by means of the screws 520 extending through the wall 522 of the fabric guide body 516, and as shown, the wall 522 extends downwardly to integral bottom wall 524 which is bent upwards as shown in Figures 23 and 22 to form upstanding wall 526, and similarly, the channel 528 is closed by end wall 530. An elongated opening 532 is formed in the wall 522 as seen best in Figure 22, to receive one of the two fabric sheets which are to be centralized, smoothed out, and guided through the machine as the fabric guide assembly passes therealong during the stitch forming operation. A pair of inner and outer centralizing members 534 and 536 are movable in the channel 528 left and right as seen in Figure 22, so as to vary the spacing between their upstanding guide jaws 538 and 540 and thus vary the distance by which the lower opening or guide slot 542 opens or closes, in accordance with the taper of the member 500. To accomplish this, the inner centralizing member 534. extends rightwardly as seen in Figure 22 in L-shape to come just below the upright leg 542 thereof, which thus extends upwardly and carries at its upper end the guide roller 544 which thus rolls along the edge 501 of the template or centralizer control bar 500. Similarly the outer centralizing member 536 has its lower web 546 extending rightwardly in the channel 528 as seen in Figure 22, to just below the other roller 548, extending upwardly as shown so that the roller 548 is pivotally carried on the upper end of the upstanding leg 550 of member 536. The two upstanding legs 550 and 542 have outstanding pins 552 movable therewith, which are pulled toward each other by th tension spring 554, so that the rollers 544 and 548 are kept in constant contact with the edges 501 and 503 of the member 500, varying their spacing as the taper of the member 500 varies, and thus varying the spacing between the jaws 538 and 540 defining the space 542; thereby continuously centralizing the fabric which extends therethrough, and thus properly centralizing the stitch formed.

It is thus apparent that the modified form of cloth guide in Figures 21 to 23 is quite versatile, and adjustable automatically to center any type of necktie assembly fabrics, without the intervention of the operator, or any danger to his or her fingers during the stitching operation. Further, by adjusting the curvature of the taper or other contour of the member 500, any desirable shape of fabric contour may be centered automatically. The hub base flange 506 has a centering notch 550 formed therein as seen in Figure 21, to engage with the spring pressed detent 552, thus bringing the arm 516 into its extended position during the formation of the stitch, so that it extends outwardly over the crimpers during the stitching pass as shown in full lines in Figure 21. At the end of the stroke, it is desirable to swing the arm 516 counterclockwise through ninety degrees so that it is parallel to the member 500, and this is readily accomplished by providing another notch 533 in flange 506. shown in Figure 21, to engage the member 552 when it is swung on pin 450 to the right.

Referring to Figures 3, 11 and 10, it is seen that here is shown in detail the pedal return linkages and .means, whereby the pedals 302 and 306 are returned automatically to neutral positions as the machine operates, as a result of the movement of the post 450. As shown, the plate 323 has integral with it the depending cam ears 319 and 321 which have their inner surfaces inclined upwardly convergently as seen in Figure 10. The platel310 is relatively stationary, and has pivotally depending therefrom the bell crank lever 313, with end pivots 315 and 317 carrying pull rods 302 and 304, the pivots 315 and 317 extending to the paths of the movement of the cam ears 319 and 321. The plate 323 has slots 327 and 331 formed therein to receive the shafts of the fixed pins 329 and 333, to permit limited left and right sidewise motion of the plate 323 as seen in Figure 10. The plate 323 has a top flange 325 integral therewith, and carrying upstanding pins 327 and 329 at its left and right ends respectively, as seen in Figure 10, which pins are in the path of movement of the base of post 450. As a result, the post 450, when it moves to the left as seen in Figure 10, will push pin 327 to the left, so that cam ear 321 will bear against pivot 317 and restore rod 304 and its pedal to neutral position. Similarly, post 450, when it moves to the right, as seen in Figure 10, will engage pin 329, and push plate 323 and ear 319 to the right, thus camming pivot 315 to the right, and restoring rod 302 and its pedal to neutral positions. In this manner, it is seen that the left and rightward travel of post 450 automatically re'- stores the pedals to their neutral positions at the end of its respective left and right strokes, rendering it unnecessary for the operator to keep this in mind at all.

As seen in Figures 21 to 23, at the ends of the travel" of the member 516,-that is at both ends of member 500, the rollers 548 and 544 are brought into alignment with the axis of the member 500 preferably, and by any suitable construction, the members 548 and 544 may be depressible slightly to allow them to pass under the member 500. Similarly, by any suitable means, the member 500 may be supported resiliently, in a vertical direction, as by making the bushings 502 in the form of yieldable cylindrical coil springs or the like, so as to yield vertically to allow passage of the rollers when needed. According to another form of construction, it is seen that when the assembly which is pivoted on post 450 is swung to the right as seen in Figure 21, the two rollers 544 and 548 move to a position behind the edge 501 of member 500, and are thus clear thereof and free to move therealong in a leftward direction to initial position.

As thus described, it is easily possible to assemble the necktie body or outer covering and the liner in one composite unit with the wellknown loose stitching of the necktie body to the liner in which they are secured together securely yet resiliently. Such construction is described in detail in the U. S. Patents No. 1,447,090, and 1,448,453, to Jesse E. Langsdorf, to which reference is made for further details of such construction 'of neckties. The present machine is of particular utility in fabricating such neckties, with their typical loose stitching by a single longitudinal thread knotted at both ends in the Langsdorf manner, the knots being formed separately after the stitching is formed. In Figures 8 and 9, at 114 is indicated the material through which the needle 84 is to penetrate with its thread 178 through the undulations to form the typical Langsdorf loose stitch of the necktie. However, while for clarity due to space limitations, 114 is not shown divided, it is actually two fabric layers such as 11411 and 114b, shown in Figure 8, which indicate the necktie outer casing or body, and the liner, the two being stitched losely together longitudinally in the Langsdorf manner, as shown in the above mentioned patents, and as is well known in the art, and then the end knots are formed after the stitching series is formed. This makes for a good, strong, resilient necktie construction, both the necktie outer casing and the liner being perferably cut on the bias, as described in the Langsdorf patents mentioned above.

Although I have described my invention in a preferred form in specific terms, it will be understood that this is only one example, and that various changes may be made in size, shape, materials and arrangement without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as claimed.

I claim:

1. A sewing device comprising first body means formed with a plurality of mutually parallel ribs projecting out of one surface thereof and with mutually parallel grooves spacing adjacent ribs, a plurality of crimper elements formed with groove engaging end portions for engaging said mutually parallel grooves intermediate said ribs of said first body means, rail means engaging said crimper elements for supporting the same, cam means carried by said rail means and constructed and arranged for moving said crimper elements into and out of engagement of their groove engaging end portions with said grooves, so as to form undulations in any sheet material disposed therebetween, and needle passage means constructed and arranged in said ribs and said crimper elements for allowing passage of a needle therethrough, and when the needle is threaded to form a stitch therethrough, whereby a plurality of layers of sheet material thus undulated by interengagement of said crimper elements with said grooves, is threaded by said needle upon a single pass of the needle through all the undulations thus formed, a needle carrier frame, a needle having its rearward end engaged in and movable with said frame,

said frame being slidable in said machine so as to carry the pointed end of said needle wholly through said needle passageway to advanced position, and to move rearwardly to carry said pointed end of said needle out of said needle passageway to retracted position, motor means, and cable means coupling said motor means to said needle carrier frame and constructed and arranged so as to move said frame both in advancing movement, and in the retracting movement.

2. A sewing device comprising first body means formed with a plurality of mutually parallel ribs projecting out of one surface thereof and with mutually parallel grooves spacing adjacent ribs, a plurality of crimper elements formed with groove engaging end portions for engaging said mutually parallel grooves intermediate said ribs of said first body means, rail means engaging said crimper elements for supporting the same, cam means carried by said rail means and constructed and arranged for moving said crimper elements into and out of engagement of their groove engaging end portions with said grooves, so as to form undulations in any sheet material disposed therebetween, and needle passage means constructed and arranged in said ribs and said crimper elements for allowing passage of a needle therethrough, and when the needle is threaded to form a stitch therethrough, Whereby a plurality of layers of sheet material thus undulated by interengagement of said crimper elements with said grooves, is threaded by said needle upon a single pass of the needle through all the undulations thus formed, a needle carrier frame, a needle having its rearward end engaged in and movable with said frame, said frame being slidable in said machine so as to carry the pointed end of said needle wholly through said needle passageway to advanced position, and to move rearwardly to carry said pointed end of said needle out of said needle passageway to retracted position, motor means, and cable means coupling said motor means to said needle carrier frame and constructed and arranged so as to move said frame both in advancing movement, and in the retracting movement, a mechanical direction changing means coupling said motor means with said cable means, whereby, as desired, the operator may change the direction of movement of said needle, and wherein said rail means is carried by said needle carrier frame for movement therewith, and said cam means is movable with and carried by said rail means, so that upon movement of said cam means to move said crimper elements into engagement with said grooves for undulating said layers of fabric to be stitched, said needle is thereupon advanced to penetrate said undulated layers of fabric to stitch the same, and a supply of thread for feeding said needle as needed.

3. A sewing device comprising first body means formed with a plurality of mutually parallel ribs projecting out of one surface thereof and with mutually parallel grooves spacing adjacent ribs, a plurality of crimper elements formed with groove engaging end portions for engaging said mutually parallel grooves intermediate said ribs of said first body means, rail means engaging said crimper elements for supporting the same, cam means carried by said rail means and constructed and arranged for moving said crimper elements into and out of engagement of their groove engaging end portions with said grooves, so as to form undulations in any sheet material disposed therebetween, and needle passage means constructed and arranged in said ribs and said crimper elements for allowing passage of a needle therethrough, and when the needle is threaded to form a stitch therethrough, whereby a plurality of layers of sheet material thus undulated by interengagement of said crimper elements with said grooves, is threaded by said needle upon a single pass of the needle through all the undulations thus formed, a needle carrier frame, a needle having its rearward end engaged in and movable with said frame, said frame being slidable in said machine so as to carry the pointed end of said needle wholly through 13 said needle passageway to advanced position, and to move rearwardly to carry said pointed end of said needle out of said needle passageway to retracted position, motor means, and cable means coupling said motor means to said needle carrier frame and constructed and arranged so as to move said frame both in advancing movement, and in the retracting movement, said needle carrierframe means comprises a pair of side walls, a needle carrier support carried by said side walls, a needle clamp carried by said needle carrier support for securely grasping the rearward end of a needle, a plurality of cam rails carried by said pair of side walls for movement therewith, said cam rails being shaped for elevating said crimper elements into engagement with said grooves sequentially, the forward end of said needle being arranged to penetrate the undulated layers of necktie casing and lining following the formation of undulations therein, so .as to stitch the same in the Lang'sdorf loose stitch construction, whereby, with the forward end of said thread held stationary, upon f traction of said needle said stitches remain in said fabric layers, and upon said retraction, said cam rails retract and allow said crimper elements to assume initial lower positions, allowing said necktie layers to be pulled outwardly intoplanar disposition, with said stitching remaintaining therein.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 638,004 Bultzingslowen Nov. 28, 1899 659,617 Bultzingslowen Oct. 9, 1900 2,275,457 Newman Mar. 10, 1942 2,349,783 Zimmer May 23, 1944 2,372,224 Neumair et a1. Mar. 27, 1945 2,387,282 Neumair et al. Oct. 23, 1945 2,409,045 Johnson et a1. Oct. 8, 1946 2,635,570 Honig et al Apr. 25, 1953 UNITED, STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent N0 2,858,784 November 4, 1958 Audrey W, Orr

It is hereby certified that error appears in the-printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction and that the said Letters Patent should read as corrected below.

Column 2, line 45, for "within" read Without column 7, line 66, after "change" insert of motion column 14, lines '7 and 8, for "remaintaining" read remaining Signed and sealed this 3rd day of February 1959 SEAL) ttest:

KARL H. AXLINE ROBERT C. WATSON Attesting Officer Commissioner of Patents

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